Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:39 AM - Re: Dual circuit for J3300 EFI (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 04:42 AM - Re: Dual circuit for J3300 EFI (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 07:00 AM - Flighttech Intercom & Microair 760 (Ron Brown)
4. 07:00 AM - Re: Odessey Battery Capacity Test (Charles Brame)
5. 07:58 AM - Re: Re: Odessey Battery Capacity Test (Ed Anderson)
6. 09:58 AM - Re: Attitude gyro problem. (Harry Manvel)
7. 10:40 AM - Is there a need for a heatsink for the B&C e-buss diode? (William Crook)
8. 10:53 AM - Bob - please contact me (William Crook)
9. 12:44 PM - Re: Can Rotax be self exciting? (Hoffmann D- Remscheid)
10. 02:09 PM - Re: Is there a need for a heatsink for the B&C e-buss diode? (Richard Tasker)
11. 03:18 PM - Re: Re: Can Rotax be self exciting? (Peter Harris)
12. 04:50 PM - Two Circuits on One Fuse? (r falstad)
13. 05:30 PM - Re: Two Circuits on One Fuse? (Kevin Horton)
14. 06:10 PM - Re: Flighttech Intercom & Microair 760 (Ken)
15. 06:10 PM - Re: Dual circuit for J3300 EFI (Ken)
16. 06:10 PM - Re: Two Circuits on One Fuse? (Ken)
17. 10:37 PM - Re: Odessey Battery Capacity Test (jetboy)
18. 11:00 PM - Re: Dual circuit for J3300 EFI (Peter Harris)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Dual circuit for J3300 EFI |
At 08:02 AM 5/24/2007 +1000, you wrote:
><peterjfharris@bigpond.com>
>
>Bob, Sorry about my attachment, the scan att is not accepted on the Yahoo
>lists I know best.
>I should correct item 3 below, pls disregard my reference to the coil
>resistance which is shunted by the crowbar, I hope that helps to make more
>sense?
>But I am curious to know how much current to expect through the crowbar if
>the regulator fails. I can still remember a boiling battery and think about
>the amount of energy to be wasted through the crowbar.
>Thanks,
>Peter
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
>Nuckolls, III
>Sent: Thursday, 24 May 2007 2:12 AM
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dual circuit for J3300 EFI
>
> It would be MUCH faster if you could sketch your
> changes for scanning and posting to the List. I'm
> not sure the images in my head based on your words
> match the reality of your proposal.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>At 03:05 PM 5/23/2007 +1000, you wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >First a big thank you Bob for the PM self exciting feature and the crowbar
> >CB tripper. Watching the voltmeter stay up, and running the electronic
> >ignition all with the master switch off was too much and I had to go home
> >and have a couple of beers to celebrate it. Clever stuff.
> >
> >I have been finishing installation of a dual circuit based on Z-21A but I
> >have wandered astray a bit as follows:
> >
> >
> >
> >1. Re Z21-A I have connected the starter relay direct to the
> >battery and not via the battery contactor. I am using the battery
> >contactor only to interrupt the charging current (and to close the
> >alternator relay.) I did this only because I do not know the logic for
> >running the starter current through two series relays ?
You're stirring the recipe for success again . . . Starter contactors
are downstream of battery contactors so that should a starter contactor
stick, you still have a way to shut the starter off. This has been done
on hundreds of thousands of airplanes for almost 100 years.
> >
> >2. I have retained the DPST master switch to isolate battery from
> >alternator from main bus. This master connects the battery contactor which
> >connects the alternator relay and it connects the main bus.
> >
> >3. I have earthed the alternator relay coil and action it from the
> >master switch through the battery contactor. I was thinking that the
> >current from a failed regulator will otherwise go to earth through the
> >master switch ? But how much current to expect here, I guess it is limited
> >by the coil resistance. The method I have used saves another wire routed
> >out to the engine bay.
> >
> >4. For the ebus I just had to use those two big diodes which
> >access either the battery or the alternator or both (normally both) each
> >with a green LED signal light. Z21-A offers power from battery plus
> >alternator , or from battery but can not be switched to run from
> >alternator only. So What ? Well it just appealed to me to be able to
> >choose which power source in any emergency and the green lights are a feel
> >good feature.
I'm having trouble understanding what you think you're gaining with
the diodes thing . . .
But it's your airplane.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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| Subject: | Dual circuit for J3300 EFI |
At 08:02 AM 5/24/2007 +1000, you wrote:
><peterjfharris@bigpond.com>
>
>Bob, Sorry about my attachment, the scan att is not accepted on the Yahoo
>lists I know best.
Don know about the Yahoo Lists but Matronics List will accept them.
>I should correct item 3 below, pls disregard my reference to the coil
>resistance which is shunted by the crowbar, I hope that helps to make more
>sense?
>But I am curious to know how much current to expect through the crowbar if
>the regulator fails. I can still remember a boiling battery and think about
>the amount of energy to be wasted through the crowbar.
The crowbar OVM draws current only for milliseconds but it is
high. On the order of 100-150 amps so that upstream break is
opened in 10-20 milliseconds . . . then all the nonsense stops
as breaker opens, current goes to zero, relay opens and alternator
is shut down.
Go to the website and search on "crowbar" for an explanation
and a variety of discussions on how it works.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Flighttech Intercom & Microair 760 |
I have been helping a friend who owns a Zenith 601 with Flighttech
ITC-402P and Microair 760 which would not function properly. The
intercom would work fine, radio transmissions could be received, but the
transmit function was weak or non existent.
After bunches of trouble shooting, rewiring, returning both units to
have them analyzed for problems (twice!!!), we finally got them working.
Rick Lord at Erie Avionics http://www.erieaviation.com/ figured out
what the problem was. He wired the radio and intercom together and
noted that the Flighttech was not pulling the PTT line down to ground as
required by the Microair. Rick added a couple of diodes and fixed the
problem.
If you are having similar problems, contact Rick Lord at Erie Avionics
or http://www.flighttech.com/contact_us.htm
THANKS to Rick Lord for his patience and finally figuring this out!!!!!
Ronnie Brown
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Odessey Battery Capacity Test |
Grant, et.al.,
I set out to test my battery endurance, though I stopped the test
after an hour and before reaching 10.5 volts. After a full hour
powering my Main Bus and two engine starts, the battery still had
11.4 volts. Thus, it was obvious to me that the battery would have
stayed above 10.5 volts for another 30 minutes or more, or even
longer if I had only used the Essential Bus. That is well within my
zone of comfort. The engine starts were just additional drains on
the battery and without them, I would have expected the endurance to
have been even greater.
The point of my post was to highlight the performance of a six year
old Odyssey PC-680.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
-----------------------------------------------------------
> Time: 08:03:25 AM PST US
> From: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Odessey Battery Capacity Test
>
>
> I don't get it...........I thought the purpose of the capacity test
> was to
> see how long the ship's battery could power the essential bus &
> stay above
> 10.5 Volts. If the amount of time this takes is within the pilot's
> zone of
> comfort (i.e. enough to land safely), then the battery is deemed
> sufficient.
> Any battery's ability to start an engine is tested at each startup.
>
> Assuming the above is true, I don't see what this particular test
> accomplished. Can someone explain what I'm missing?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Grant
>
>
> Time: 03:35:28 PM PST US
> From: Charles Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Odessey Battery Capacity Test
>
>
> Based on the recent discussions of battery capacity, I decided to put
> my six year old Odessey PC-680 battery through a poor man's capacity
> test. I started with a fully charged battery which read 12.7 volts at
> the beginning of the test. I turned on my aircraft main bus with all
> the avionics, gyros, engine monitor (VM-1000), instruments, and
> instrument lights - ON. The electronic ignition, nav lights, and
> strobes were left OFF (aircraft on the ground.) After 20 minutes the
> voltage was down to 12.1 volts. The engine was then started (cold
> start and it took two tries to get it going.) The electronic ignition
> and electric boost pump were turned ON; however, the alternator was
> intentionally left OFF. The engine was run for three or four minutes
> and shut down. The aircraft then sat for another 35 minutes with the
> main bus, avionics, etc., left ON though the ignition and boost pump
> were turned OFF. The lowest battery voltage was 11.4 volts. After a
> full hour of battery only operation, the engine was again started
> with no problems. The alternator was turned on after the second
> engine start and the bus voltage read 13.8. (I forgot to check the
> amperage, which is basically an alternator loadmeter.) The engine was
> only run for about three minutes. After engine shutdown, the battery
> voltage was back up to 12.4 and the test ended.
>
> Pretty good battery I think. Based on the age of my PC-680, I really
> didn't expect this kind of performance.
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Odessey Battery Capacity Test |
Thanks, Charlie.
I have been flying with one Odyssey PC680 - 14 1/2lbs after getting rid of
my 2 Concord RGC 25 AH batteries each weighing 22 1/2 lbs - can you say 44
lbs of battery. One went bad after 6 months and I replaced them with 2
Odyssey. After flying with 2 Odyssey for 3 years, I finally removed one and
have been flying with one for 3 years.
A battery than can give that kind of performance after six years is the
battery for me.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Brame" <chasb@satx.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 9:57 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Odessey Battery Capacity Test
>
> Grant, et.al.,
>
> I set out to test my battery endurance, though I stopped the test after
> an hour and before reaching 10.5 volts. After a full hour powering my
> Main Bus and two engine starts, the battery still had 11.4 volts. Thus,
> it was obvious to me that the battery would have stayed above 10.5 volts
> for another 30 minutes or more, or even longer if I had only used the
> Essential Bus. That is well within my zone of comfort. The engine starts
> were just additional drains on the battery and without them, I would have
> expected the endurance to have been even greater.
>
> The point of my post was to highlight the performance of a six year old
> Odyssey PC-680.
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------
>
>> Time: 08:03:25 AM PST US
>> From: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
>> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Odessey Battery Capacity Test
>>
>>
>> I don't get it...........I thought the purpose of the capacity test was
>> to
>> see how long the ship's battery could power the essential bus & stay
>> above
>> 10.5 Volts. If the amount of time this takes is within the pilot's zone
>> of
>> comfort (i.e. enough to land safely), then the battery is deemed
>> sufficient.
>> Any battery's ability to start an engine is tested at each startup.
>>
>> Assuming the above is true, I don't see what this particular test
>> accomplished. Can someone explain what I'm missing?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Grant
>>
>>
>> Time: 03:35:28 PM PST US
>> From: Charles Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com>
>> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Odessey Battery Capacity Test
>>
>>
>> Based on the recent discussions of battery capacity, I decided to put
>> my six year old Odessey PC-680 battery through a poor man's capacity
>> test. I started with a fully charged battery which read 12.7 volts at
>> the beginning of the test. I turned on my aircraft main bus with all
>> the avionics, gyros, engine monitor (VM-1000), instruments, and
>> instrument lights - ON. The electronic ignition, nav lights, and
>> strobes were left OFF (aircraft on the ground.) After 20 minutes the
>> voltage was down to 12.1 volts. The engine was then started (cold
>> start and it took two tries to get it going.) The electronic ignition
>> and electric boost pump were turned ON; however, the alternator was
>> intentionally left OFF. The engine was run for three or four minutes
>> and shut down. The aircraft then sat for another 35 minutes with the
>> main bus, avionics, etc., left ON though the ignition and boost pump
>> were turned OFF. The lowest battery voltage was 11.4 volts. After a
>> full hour of battery only operation, the engine was again started
>> with no problems. The alternator was turned on after the second
>> engine start and the bus voltage read 13.8. (I forgot to check the
>> amperage, which is basically an alternator loadmeter.) The engine was
>> only run for about three minutes. After engine shutdown, the battery
>> voltage was back up to 12.4 and the test ended.
>>
>> Pretty good battery I think. Based on the age of my PC-680, I really
>> didn't expect this kind of performance.
>>
>> Charlie Brame
>> RV-6A N11CB
>> San Antonio
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Attitude gyro problem. |
Greg,
In case the other suggestions don't do the trick; I had trouble with my
vacuum horizon for many hours early in the testing phase of my airplane.
It would show a bank when wings were level, usually after a long climb
or descent. Nothing I did solved the problem, until I isolated the gauge
with a rubber tube used as a gasket. This cured it, proving that the
problem was vibration. I then installed one of those "Nu-Lite" lighted
circles in place of the gasket, and it still works perfectly. I guess
it did enough to either dampen the vibrations, or it changed the
frequency at which the gauge would get attacked by it .
Harry Manvel
Defiant N2HM
PTK / Pontiac, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: Puckett, Gregory [DENTK]
To: AeroElectric-List@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 6:13 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Attitude gyro problem.
Help!! My attitude indicator is driving me nuts!
The attitude indicator is a RC Allen RCA26AK2 (14v electric) with 8deg
tilt installed in my RV-8.
From the first flight, the indicator showed signs of what I thought
was precession. During constant altitude standard rate turns, when
rolling out to wings level the indicator would show up to 10deg bank in
the opposite direction. While turning at standard rate level altitude,
after 90 deg of hdg change in one direction the indicator would show up
to 5deg of false climb and 5deg of false descent when in the other
direction. BTW, the indicator does not show any bank during turns on the
ground.
I thought, well this thing has been sitting for some time, the
bearings must be bad. I sent the indicator back to Kelly Mfg for repair,
they replaced the bearings and recalibrated. After reinstalling, I still
had the same problem. I suspected that the repair was not sufficient and
sent it back again with no fault found. I still had the same problem in
the airplane after reinstalling.
I checked some things with the A/C such as actual panel tilt, voltage
at the instrument with respect to the instrument ground, noise on the
power in. The only thing I found was that my actual panel tilt was more
like 5.5 deg and not 8. I shimmed the instrument so that it was exactly
8 deg and it did not help the problem at all. I thought for sure,
something must be wrong with the instrument. Kelly mfg agreed to
exchange it for a new manufacture instrument. I still have the same
problem with the new instrument.
I then thought, even though it's a spinning hunk of mass, something
must be interfering with it. I wrapped the case in mu-metal, turned off
all electrical equipment in the panel including both alternators and you
guessed it, I still have the problem. WTF..
What else could possibly be causing this????
Thanks in advance,
Greg
Message 7
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| Subject: | Is there a need for a heatsink for the B&C e-buss diode? |
Hi Group:
Quick question: Is there a need for a heatsink for the B&C e-buss diode? I am
mounting the diode on .065 aluminum sheet under the glare shield. Would that
suffice? If I need a heat sink, what size?
Also, what is the most economical/elegant way to step down 12.8 volt ship's power
to 5 volts for an "avionics" cooling fan (i.e., a computer cooling fan from
Radio Shack)? Thanks,
Will Crook
Glastar
Waynesville, NC
Message 8
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| Subject: | Bob - please contact me |
Bob K.,
Please email me at wacrook@yahoo.com or call me at 828-400-0202 regarding my pitot
tube and pitot tube connector. I am anxious to get it back and installed.
If you've been too busy to work on it, that's fine - I just need it back. Multiple
emails to you directly have been unanswered. I do recall you stating that
you often get way behind on emails. All fine, but please do respond to this.
Hope you & Dr. Dee are doing great. Thank you so very much for your help,
Will Crook
Glastar
Waynesville, NC
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Can Rotax be self exciting? |
Hello,
I have found two aftermarket products which claim to run without battery
with capacitor only:
http://www.schicke-electronic.de/dgr3.htm switches near the zero
transition and thus produces very low noise. Consider the cooling fins
in comparison to the original Rotax regulator and You may believe it is
a product designed for very long life.
http://www.silent-hektik.com/Duc_R_Rot.htm run Rotax injection which is
electrical dependent. They say that the engine will continue running as
long as it is above 1000rpm with capacitor only.
Hope that helps especially for the 912 / 914 engines
Bob is right once more (:-)
Richard
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Is there a need for a heatsink for the B&C e-buss |
diode?
The best way to solve this problem would be to buy a 12V cooling fan.
They are readily available - even at Radio Shack (although theirs are
somewhat costly).
Dick Tasker
William Crook wrote:
> Hi Group:
>
> Quick question: Is there a need for a heatsink for the B&C e-buss
> diode? I am mounting the diode on .065 aluminum sheet under the glare
> shield. Would that suffice? If I need a heat sink, what size?
>
> Also, what is the most economical/elegant way to step down 12.8
> volt ship's power to 5 volts for an "avionics" cooling fan (i.e., a
> computer cooling fan from Radio Shack)? Thanks,
>
> Will Crook
> Glastar
> Waynesville, NC
>
>*
>
>
>*
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Can Rotax be self exciting? |
The Jabiru PM alternator/ with rectifier regulator also runs when fitted
according to Bob's plan Z note 25 . It is a big advantage for very little
cost.
Peter
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hoffmann
D- Remscheid
Sent: Friday, 25 May 2007 5:39 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Can Rotax be self exciting?
Hello,
I have found two aftermarket products which claim to run without battery
with capacitor only:
http://www.schicke-electronic.de/dgr3.htm switches near the zero transition
and thus produces very low noise. Consider the cooling fins in comparison to
the original Rotax regulator and You may believe it is a product designed
for very long life.
http://www.silent-hektik.com/Duc_R_Rot.htm run Rotax injection which is
electrical dependent. They say that the engine will continue running as long
as it is above 1000rpm with capacitor only.
Hope that helps especially for the 912 / 914 engines
Bob is right once more (:-)
Richard
Message 12
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| Subject: | Two Circuits on One Fuse? |
I'm following the AeroElectric Connection philosophy and using fuses. I
have 29 circuits but only 24 tabs on my fuse block. What is the "best
we know how to do" in this situation? I'd like to think that crimping
two circuits into one Faston is OK but what size fuse should I use and
should I match the relative current draw or pick a higher current draw
circuit to pair with a lower current draw circuit? I intend not to pair
similar items such as radio and transponder so that one blown fuse
doesn't take down all my avionics.
Thanks,
Bob
GlaStar
N248BF
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Two Circuits on One Fuse? |
On 24 May 2007, at 19:46, r falstad wrote:
> I'm following the AeroElectric Connection philosophy and using
> fuses. I have 29 circuits but only 24 tabs on my fuse block. What
> is the "best we know how to do" in this situation? I'd like to
> think that crimping two circuits into one Faston is OK but what
> size fuse should I use and should I match the relative current draw
> or pick a higher current draw circuit to pair with a lower current
> draw circuit? I intend not to pair similar items such as radio and
> transponder so that one blown fuse doesn't take down all my avionics.
The fuse needs to be big enough to comfortably handle the worst case
total load that could be produced by both devices. Then, all wires
fed by that fuse need to be big enough to handle the fuse rating
without overheating. This is because a wiring fault in a single wire
could put as much current as the fuse will deliver without blowing
through that single wire.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Flighttech Intercom & Microair 760 |
Ron
I mentioned awhile ago that Flightech knows of this issue with their
older intercoms due to a track error on the circuit board. The diode is
there but wired incorrectly and they should be able to tell you how to
install one jumper wire or repair it for you. Their schematic is
correct but the board has an error. I believe I had to lift one end of
the problem diode and jumper it to the correct place but it was quite
some time ago that I did it.
Actually my board also had a second error that prevented the warning
audio from my EIS from feeding through but they are also aware of that.
I really like the intercom and flightech was easy to work with.
I think that every electronic unit that I purchased had an issue or two
to work through regardless of the manufacturer.
Ken
Ron Brown wrote:
> I have been helping a friend who owns a Zenith 601 with Flighttech
> ITC-402P and Microair 760 which would not function properly. The
> intercom would work fine, radio transmissions could be received, but
> the transmit function was weak or non existent.
>
> After bunches of trouble shooting, rewiring, returning both units to
> have them analyzed for problems (twice!!!), we finally got them
> working. Rick Lord at Erie Avionics
> http://www.erieaviation.com/ figured out what the problem was. He
> wired the radio and intercom together and noted that the Flighttech
> was not pulling the PTT line down to ground as required by the
> Microair. Rick added a couple of diodes and fixed the problem.
>
> If you are having similar problems, contact Rick Lord at Erie Avionics
> or http://www.flighttech.com/contact_us.htm
>
> THANKS to Rick Lord for his patience and finally figuring this out!!!!!
>
> Ronnie Brown
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Dual circuit for J3300 EFI |
Peter
You are right to ask a few more questions and learn more which is great
but you are causing yourself difficulties by straying too far from the Z
diagrams.
You should have a circuit breaker installed so that the OVM can trip the
breaker and open the relay. The ovm will destroy itself if it shorts out
the battery feed or the alternator feed. (Well actually it will likely
blow up the diodes first in your diagram) You want the ovm to trip a
breaker that supplies power to the relay. The relay then disconnects
the alternator. I use a 2 amp breaker but 5 amp also works. The ovm is
a short circuit when it activates. Take another look at the Z diagrams
as I don't think you want the ovm in series with any diodes. One amp
diodes will permanently pop like fuses if the ovm actuates in your diagram.
I do not use a separate starter contactor in addition to the contactor
inside my starter BUT the power to my starter does flow through my main
battery contactor!
Ken
Peter Harris wrote:
>
>
> First a big thank you Bob for the PM self exciting feature and the
> crowbar CB tripper. Watching the voltmeter stay up, and running the
> electronic ignition all with the master switch off was too much and I
> had to go home and have a couple of beers to celebrate it. Clever stuff.
>
> I have been finishing installation of a dual circuit based on Z-21A
> but I have wandered astray a bit as follows:
>
>
>
> 1. Re Z21-A I have connected the starter relay direct to the
> battery and not via the battery contactor. I am using the battery
> contactor only to interrupt the charging current (and to close the
> alternator relay.) I did this only because I do not know the logic for
> running the starter current through two series relays ?
>
> 2. I have retained the DPST master switch to isolate battery
> from alternator from main bus. This master connects the battery
> contactor which connects the alternator relay and it connects the main
> bus.
>
> 3. I have earthed the alternator relay coil and action it from
> the master switch through the battery contactor. I was thinking that
> the current from a failed regulator will otherwise go to earth through
> the master switch ? But how much current to expect here, I guess it is
> limited by the coil resistance. The method I have used saves another
> wire routed out to the engine bay.
>
> 4. For the ebus I just had to use those two big diodes which
> access either the battery or the alternator or both (normally both)
> each with a green LED signal light. Z21-A offers power from battery
> plus alternator , or from battery but can not be switched to run from
> alternator only. So What ? Well it just appealed to me to be able to
> choose which power source in any emergency and the green lights are a
> feel good feature.
>
>
>
> I am offering this amendment fully expecting a flame out and ready to
> eat humble pie and learn some more, mean time I will stay off the beer.
>
> Circuit details follow :
>
> Peter
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Two Circuits on One Fuse? |
The fuse should be sized to protect the smallest awg wire that it
supplies. I have several circuits where a 10 amp fuse feeds two 18 awg
wires. The total current draw is less than 10 amps. If you pick a larger
fuse it can allow the wire to overheat and will not provide the intended
protection.
Ken
r falstad wrote:
> I'm following the AeroElectric Connection philosophy and using fuses.
> I have 29 circuits but only 24 tabs on my fuse block. What is the
> "best we know how to do" in this situation? I'd like to think that
> crimping two circuits into one Faston is OK but what size fuse should
> I use and should I match the relative current draw or pick a higher
> current draw circuit to pair with a lower current draw circuit? I
> intend not to pair similar items such as radio and transponder so that
> one blown fuse doesn't take down all my avionics.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
> GlaStar
> N248BF
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Odessey Battery Capacity Test |
The easy way to do a reserve capacity test is to measure normal inflight load and
start the test by turning on sufficient lights etc to reach that loading on
the battery. When the voltage falls below 10.5 stop the clock and recharge the
battery. It is important not to let the voltage get below this for the Odysey
type of battery.
The correct method for a capacity check is to discharge at the 20 hr rate, to 10.5
volts. For a 20 a/hr battery that would mean a load of 1 amp.
if you do the test at higher currents, the capacity is less and their website gives
all the information to compensate.
They are very good batteries I have a set of Gates Cyclon (the predecessor) dated
1990 which I have been using to start a gas turbine, they are only a half volt
behind my PC925 used for the Jabiru 2200.
Ralph
--------
Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=114675#114675
Message 18
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| Subject: | Dual circuit for J3300 EFI |
Hi Ken,
Not sure if you saw my diagram. I have adopted the S704-1 alternator
disconnect relay with the crowbar across the coil same as Z-21A and Z-25.
The crowbar will shunt the coil and the relay will disconnect.
Instead of earthing the crowbar through the master switch I have set it
direct to earth. In my diagram the alternator relay will close when I close
the master switch which connects the battery to the alt relay diode and
feeds the coil, closing the alt relay.
I raised the question what happens when the regulator fails because if you
look at Z-21A the alt relay opens when the crowbar conducts but it will
close again when the crowbar stops conducting ie the unregulated output will
continue to feed to the coil + shunt crowbar and the crowbar would need to
continue to conduct this energy otherwise the relay will close again. Yes I
guess the diodes would pop.
In Z21-A you would need to manually open the master switch to stop the
process. I don't see any other breaker that would interrupt power to the
relay? (I can see now that my coil earth would not allow this)
Am I missing something?
What do you think Ken ?
Regards
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Friday, 25 May 2007 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dual circuit for J3300 EFI
Peter
You are right to ask a few more questions and learn more which is great
but you are causing yourself difficulties by straying too far from the Z
diagrams.
You should have a circuit breaker installed so that the OVM can trip the
breaker and open the relay. The ovm will destroy itself if it shorts out
the battery feed or the alternator feed. (Well actually it will likely
blow up the diodes first in your diagram) You want the ovm to trip a
breaker that supplies power to the relay. The relay then disconnects
the alternator. I use a 2 amp breaker but 5 amp also works. The ovm is
a short circuit when it activates. Take another look at the Z diagrams
as I don't think you want the ovm in series with any diodes. One amp
diodes will permanently pop like fuses if the ovm actuates in your diagram.
I do not use a separate starter contactor in addition to the contactor
inside my starter BUT the power to my starter does flow through my main
battery contactor!
Ken
Peter Harris wrote:
>
>
> First a big thank you Bob for the PM self exciting feature and the
> crowbar CB tripper. Watching the voltmeter stay up, and running the
> electronic ignition all with the master switch off was too much and I
> had to go home and have a couple of beers to celebrate it. Clever stuff.
>
> I have been finishing installation of a dual circuit based on Z-21A
> but I have wandered astray a bit as follows:
>
>
>
> 1. Re Z21-A I have connected the starter relay direct to the
> battery and not via the battery contactor. I am using the battery
> contactor only to interrupt the charging current (and to close the
> alternator relay.) I did this only because I do not know the logic for
> running the starter current through two series relays ?
>
> 2. I have retained the DPST master switch to isolate battery
> from alternator from main bus. This master connects the battery
> contactor which connects the alternator relay and it connects the main
> bus.
>
> 3. I have earthed the alternator relay coil and action it from
> the master switch through the battery contactor. I was thinking that
> the current from a failed regulator will otherwise go to earth through
> the master switch ? But how much current to expect here, I guess it is
> limited by the coil resistance. The method I have used saves another
> wire routed out to the engine bay.
>
> 4. For the ebus I just had to use those two big diodes which
> access either the battery or the alternator or both (normally both)
> each with a green LED signal light. Z21-A offers power from battery
> plus alternator , or from battery but can not be switched to run from
> alternator only. So What ? Well it just appealed to me to be able to
> choose which power source in any emergency and the green lights are a
> feel good feature.
>
>
>
> I am offering this amendment fully expecting a flame out and ready to
> eat humble pie and learn some more, mean time I will stay off the beer.
>
> Circuit details follow :
>
> Peter
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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