Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:43 AM - Re: Whelen strobe connecter tools (David Abrahamson)
2. 05:22 AM - Whelen strobe connecter tools ()
3. 07:03 AM - Re: Re: We can't build our own avionics (dwieck@cafes.net)
4. 07:37 AM - Re: We can't build our own avionics (dwieck@cafes.net)
5. 07:58 AM - Garmin 396 display crazing ()
6. 08:06 AM - Re: Some AeroElectric Connection Questions (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 08:30 AM - Garmin SL 30 Nav/Com Wiring (Dennis Johnson)
8. 08:32 AM - Re: Re: We can't build our own avionics (Ernest Christley)
9. 09:02 AM - Re: Garmin 396 display crazing (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
10. 09:15 AM - Re: Garmin 396 display crazing (Harley)
11. 09:22 AM - Re: Garmin SL 30 Nav/Com Wiring (Greg Young)
12. 09:52 AM - Re: Re: We can't build our own avionics (Kevin Horton)
13. 09:55 AM - Re: First Start of my rotary (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 10:37 AM - Re: Re: We can't build our own avionics (Ernest Christley)
15. 10:53 AM - Re: Garmin 396 display crazing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 11:12 AM - Re: Garmin 396 display crazing (Harley)
17. 11:44 AM - Re: We can't build our own avionics (dwieck@cafes.net)
18. 11:48 AM - Re: Garmin 396 display crazing (Matt Prather)
19. 12:24 PM - Re: Garmin 396 display crazing (Richard Tasker)
20. 12:32 PM - Re: Re: We can't build our own avionics (Kevin Horton)
21. 12:32 PM - Re: Garmin 396 display crazing (Ernest Christley)
22. 12:37 PM - Re: Garmin 396 display crazing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
23. 12:49 PM - Re: We can't build our own avionics (sreynard)
24. 01:06 PM - Re: Garmin 396 display crazing (Harley)
25. 01:11 PM - Re: Re: We can't build our own avionics (Rob Turk)
26. 01:54 PM - Another myth bites the dust. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
27. 02:20 PM - Another myth bites the dust. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
28. 02:33 PM - Re: Garmin 396 display crazing (Rob Housman)
29. 02:54 PM - Re: Another myth bites the dust. (Kevin Horton)
30. 03:28 PM - Re: Garmin 396 display crazing ()
31. 05:49 PM - Re: Garmin 396 display crazing (Dale Ensing)
32. 07:08 PM - Re: Another myth bites the dust. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
33. 07:53 PM - Re: Hitachi Alternator (Joe Dubner)
34. 08:22 PM - Re: Re: We can't build our own avionics (Ernest Christley)
35. 08:35 PM - Grimes Pin Outs and Installation Wiring. (BobsV35B@aol.com)
36. 08:46 PM - Re: Re: Hitachi Alternator (Matt Prather)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Whelen strobe connecter tools |
I got the right tool from SteinAir, the SAT-018, which you'll find on
the "tools" page of the online store. That, plus the SAT-033 pin
extractor, and Bob's article at
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html, and you're all set!
David
Message 2
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Subject: | Whelen strobe connecter tools |
5/31/2007
Hello Eric, Consider this approach. Go to http://www.terminaltown.com/ and
order some new Molex connectors and pins (along with a few extras just in
case). Then cut off the factory installed connectors, snake your wires
through the wings, and install new pins and connectors using the stripping
and crimping tools that you already have.
You are right that there are different kinds of Mate 'n Lock connectors and
pins so that you need to be very precise in determining the connectors and
pins needed, but they are available.
Note that you can also buy the tool you asked about from them for about
$20.00. But I think that extra connectors and pins is a much more reasonable
and inexpensive solution.
When starting from scratch I think that the best way to handle the stobe
cable going from power supply in fuselage to light units in wings is to
start with which ever end already has the factory installed connector (I
don't remember which end that was right now -- I did that wiring a few years
ago). Then snake the cut end of the cable through the routing desired. Leave
some slack at the light end and a very generous service loop at the power
supply end -- no break or connector at the wing to fuselage junction. Then
if you ever have to remove a wing just disconnect the connector at the power
supply, cut the connector off, strip out the section of cable in the
fuselage going to the power supply and remove the wing. When it comes time
to reinstall wing, resnake the section of cable going to the power supply,
install pins and connectors from the spares that you wisely have on hand and
reconnect to the power supply.
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
PS: Be very accurate to get the right wires connected to the right pins. A
friend of mine got a little careless, crossed some wires, fried something,
and had to get Whelen factory help to repair the damage.
_____________
Time: 07:05:43 PM PST US
From: Eric Schlanser <eschlanser@yahoo.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Whelen strobe connecter tools
Any suggestions on where to find Whelen strobe connecter tools? I have to
remove
the already installed AMP PCPS3 three pin strobe connecters to wire the
wings.
I think they are called Mate 'n Lock connecters. But there are a couple of
kinds of Mate 'N Locks and the tools are different. Worse yet, Mouser's
catalog
didn't show these specific connecters(at least not by these numbers). The
Radio
Shack D-sub pin installation and extraction tools didn't work. I tried.
Eric Schlanser
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: We can't build our own avionics |
> > Articles like that just increase the challenge....
> > http://lea.hamradio.si/~s53mv/avionics/avionics.html
> >
> > deserves congratulations for putting so much together.
> >
>Now that is impressive! Food for thought. . . . :D
Yes he has some neat stuff but he is not using it in the US ( under FCC rules)
Dennis
N4ZKR
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: We can't build our own avionics |
You need to read the rest of part 15. It covers intentional, unintentional, or
incidental radiators. These are low power devices like remote controls or devices
that radiate a signal unintentionally 9 look at the label on your computer or
clock radio) . If you read the section you will see that the aircraft
frequencies are NOT listed as frequencies that can be used. There are also limits
as to the amount of radiated field strength. yes you can build a Part 15 device
but you can not use it on aviation frequencies.
Dennis
N4ZKR
snip
>Looking over the FCC regs here's something a little interesting:
> > TITLE 47--TELECOMMUNICATION
> >
> >
> >
> > CHAPTER I--FEDERAL COMMUNICATIONS COMMISSION
> >
> >
> >
> > PART 15_RADIO FREQUENCY DEVICES--Table of Contents
> >
> >
> >
> > Subpart A_General
> >
> >
> >
> > Sec. 15.23 Home-built devices.
> >
> >
> >
> > (a) Equipment authorization is not required for devices that are not
> >
> > marketed, are not constructed from a kit, and are built in quantities of
> >
> > five or less for personal use.
> >
> > (b) It is recognized that the individual builder of home-built
> >
> > equipment may not possess the means to perform the measurements for
> >
> > determining compliance with the regulations. In this case, the builder
> >
> > is expected to employ good engineering practices to meet the specified
> >
> > technical standards to the greatest extent practicable. The provisions
> >
> > of Sec. 15.5 apply to this equipment.
>I'm not a lawyer, but this seems pretty clear to me. My thinking is that if you
>keep on frequency, within the bandwidth limits, and make a reasonable attempt
at
>any other spec's, you should be good to go as long as you don't try to sell
them. >This agrees with the ARRL news letters I've seen over the years. People
get in >trouble for trying to sell unlicensed transmitters or causing
interference to >others, not building their own.
>Steven Reynard
>Workshop prep/RV-7 Planning
Message 5
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Subject: | Garmin 396 display crazing |
I just saw a Garmin 396 last night a friend borrowed for a trip. It was in
perfect condition when he borrowed it. The clear plastic you view the
display through now looks like my plastic lens glasses that have a
coating, and the coating is all crazed, many fine cracks that at first
glance look like scratches.
He fessed cleaning the display with Pledge. I suspect may have caused the
problem?
1) How is clear plastic best (real world) cleaned on Garmin GPS?
2) What ruins plastic and is best avoided? I have a 296
3) Anyone have any ideas if you can return finish to display? Or polish it
out?
4) Any idea how much cost to replace plastic?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Some AeroElectric Connection Questions |
At 10:53 AM 5/30/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>Bob,
>
>Thanks for all of the great training you provide both on the list and in
>your AeroElectric Connection!
>
>I am planning on using Z-11 to wire my RV-7A but using B&C's LR3C
>regulator in place of the Ford regulator, the AEC9005-101 low voltage
>monitor module, and the crowbar o.v. protection module since all 3
>functions are built into the LR3C.
>
>I'm using Z-12 as a reference for the LR3C portion of the wiring and my
>question is why does the LR3C just require a 5A breaker between the bus
>and the master switch, whereas in the Z-11 setup a fusible link is
>required between the bus and the master switch and the breaker is then
>shown between the switch and regulator?
Breakers and fuses protect wires. When you're wired with breakers
at the bus bars, then EVERY WIRE extending from the bus bar
is protected by the breaker. When you use fuse blocks and then
EXTEND the bus by means of a wire from the fuse block to a breaker,
then that piece of wire needs protection . . . i.e. fusible link.
The fusible link is weak enough to protect the wire but robust enough
to open the breaker before befor the link opens.
>
>Also, on Z-11, the picture that shows the terminal locations for the
>S700-2-XX series of switches is numbered opposite to what is shown on page
>11-16 of the AeroElectric Connection and both mention keyway up. Which is
>correct?
See note 15 in Appendix Z and
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Carling_Micro/Carling_Micro.pdf
>
>Thanks again for all of your help!
You're welcome sir!
Bob . . .
Message 7
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Subject: | Garmin SL 30 Nav/Com Wiring |
I wired my Lancair Legacy using Z13/8.
My Garmin SL 30 Nav/Com radio has two power supplies, one for the
navigation part of the radio and one for the communication part. I
wired the communication part to the E-bus and the navigation part to the
main bus. I figured that if I lost my main alternator, I could likely
do without the VOR function of the radio because I'd be using GPS
anyway.
The nav and com functions work fine when powered by the main bus, but
it's completely dead when powered only by the E-bus. I just talked to
Garmin tech support, who confirmed that both the navigation and
communication power supplies must be powered for either one to work.
Drats! I don't have any extra E-bus fuses, so I'll probably wire an
inline ATO fuse from the E-bus to power the navigation part of the
radio.
By the way, I love this radio's ability to monitor the standby frequency
while still hearing the primary frequency. This is my only radio (I
carry a hand held for emergency) and I can listen to the AWOS/ATIS on
the standby channel while staying on ATC's frequency. The audio on the
standby is muted during transmissions on the primary frequency, so I
don't have to worry about missing ATC's radio calls. If there is a lot
of traffic on the primary frequency, it can take a while to get all of
the AWOS/ATIS info, but I tune it up early, so that's not been a
problem. For me, this feature eliminated the need to buy a second radio
and install a second antenna on the outside of the airplane.
I thought others might want the info about the need to power both nav
and com power supplies for either to work.
Best,
Dennis Johnson
Lancair Legacy, just completed my first flight outside the local area.
Northern Calif. to Portland in a little over two hours.
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: We can't build our own avionics |
dwieck@cafes.net wrote:
>
>
> You need to read the rest of part 15. It covers intentional, unintentional, or
> incidental radiators. These are low power devices like remote controls or devices
> that radiate a signal unintentionally 9 look at the label on your computer or
> clock radio) . If you read the section you will see that the aircraft
> frequencies are NOT listed as frequencies that can be used. There are also limits
> as to the amount of radiated field strength. yes you can build a Part 15 device
> but you can not use it on aviation frequencies.
>
>
If I'm understanding what you're saying, the NAV portion of his NAV/COM
would be totally acceptable to the FCC, and the FAA wouldn't bat an eye
as long as it's in an experimental craft. The DME, GPS receiver,
GS/marker, gyrocompass, intercom, TCAS, VOR, LOC and VHF recievers would
all be totally acceptable to the FCC. The transmitting portions (VHF
amplifier, COM transmitter, and radio altimeter) would be asking for
trouble.
All the antennaes would be acceptable, because an antennae is not a
transmitter?
Message 9
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Subject: | Garmin 396 display crazing |
That's easy...You give it back to your friend and ask that it comes back
in the same condition you loaned it to him in...:)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2007 7:55 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Garmin 396 display crazing
I just saw a Garmin 396 last night a friend borrowed for a trip. It was
in perfect condition when he borrowed it. The clear plastic you view the
display through now looks like my plastic lens glasses that have a
coating, and the coating is all crazed, many fine cracks that at first
glance look like scratches.
He fessed cleaning the display with Pledge. I suspect may have caused
the problem?
1) How is clear plastic best (real world) cleaned on Garmin GPS?
2) What ruins plastic and is best avoided? I have a 296
3) Anyone have any ideas if you can return finish to display? Or polish
it out?
4) Any idea how much cost to replace plastic?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Garmin 396 display crazing |
First, I don't have a Garmin GPS, so I can't speak for it's display
lens, but I have used pledge to clean clear plastic items for years, and
I can say that I have never seen it do that. In fact it is used to
remove fine scratches and cloudiness from plastic.
Pledge is also highly recommended to clean the scratches and such on
DVDs and CDs that don't read or play well, and I have also successfully
used it on DVDs I have borrowed from the library that don't play when I
get them.
Pledge is also recommended to remove the scratches and dirt from our
airplane canopies and plastic windows...
So, I doubt very much that pledge caused the problem.
Crazing, and the type of damage you are describing, usually comes from
the use of a plastic solvent (which Pledge is not) such as MEK or
acetone or such. Are you sure that someone didn't try to clean it with
something like that, and then try to correct it with pledge?
To correct it, you can try some very fine sandpaper, and then pledge
when the scratches have sanded out fine enough for it to work. Of
course, if the crazing is too deep, then replacement of the lens may be
the only option.
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US wrote:
>
> I just saw a Garmin 396 last night a friend borrowed for a trip. It was in
> perfect condition when he borrowed it. The clear plastic you view the
> display through now looks like my plastic lens glasses that have a
> coating, and the coating is all crazed, many fine cracks that at first
> glance look like scratches.
>
> He fessed cleaning the display with Pledge. I suspect may have caused the
> problem?
>
> 1) How is clear plastic best (real world) cleaned on Garmin GPS?
>
> 2) What ruins plastic and is best avoided? I have a 296
>
> 3) Anyone have any ideas if you can return finish to display? Or polish it
> out?
>
> 4) Any idea how much cost to replace plastic?
>
> Thx.
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Garmin SL 30 Nav/Com Wiring |
You could always tie both power wires to a single 7amp fuse using a fast-tab
splitter which should protect either wire. The SL-30 internal fuses will
blow long before either the 2 or 5amp anyway. BTDT
Regards,
Greg Young
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dennis
Johnson
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2007 10:29 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Garmin SL 30 Nav/Com Wiring
I wired my Lancair Legacy using Z13/8.
My Garmin SL 30 Nav/Com radio has two power supplies, one for the navigation
part of the radio and one for the communication part. I wired the
communication part to the E-bus and the navigation part to the main bus. I
figured that if I lost my main alternator, I could likely do without the VOR
function of the radio because I'd be using GPS anyway.
The nav and com functions work fine when powered by the main bus, but it's
completely dead when powered only by the E-bus. I just talked to Garmin
tech support, who confirmed that both the navigation and communication power
supplies must be powered for either one to work. Drats! I don't have any
extra E-bus fuses, so I'll probably wire an inline ATO fuse from the E-bus
to power the navigation part of the radio.
By the way, I love this radio's ability to monitor the standby frequency
while still hearing the primary frequency. This is my only radio (I carry a
hand held for emergency) and I can listen to the AWOS/ATIS on the standby
channel while staying on ATC's frequency. The audio on the standby is muted
during transmissions on the primary frequency, so I don't have to worry
about missing ATC's radio calls. If there is a lot of traffic on the
primary frequency, it can take a while to get all of the AWOS/ATIS info, but
I tune it up early, so that's not been a problem. For me, this feature
eliminated the need to buy a second radio and install a second antenna on
the outside of the airplane.
I thought others might want the info about the need to power both nav and
com power supplies for either to work.
Best,
Dennis Johnson
Lancair Legacy, just completed my first flight outside the local area.
Northern Calif. to Portland in a little over two hours.
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: We can't build our own avionics |
DME has a transmitter. It transmits a signal to the ground station, and determines
distance by measuring the delay before the ground station responds.
TCAS also has a transmitter - it interrogates any transponders in the area and
builds its knowledge of conflicting traffic based on the responses it gets.
Kevin Horton
On Thu, 31 May 2007 11:31:32 -0400
Ernest Christley <echristley@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
> dwieck@cafes.net wrote:
> >
> >
> > You need to read the rest of part 15. It covers intentional, unintentional,
or
> > incidental radiators. These are low power devices like remote controls or devices
> > that radiate a signal unintentionally 9 look at the label on your computer
or
> > clock radio) . If you read the section you will see that the aircraft
> > frequencies are NOT listed as frequencies that can be used. There are also
limits
> > as to the amount of radiated field strength. yes you can build a Part 15 device
> > but you can not use it on aviation frequencies.
> >
> >
> If I'm understanding what you're saying, the NAV portion of his NAV/COM
> would be totally acceptable to the FCC, and the FAA wouldn't bat an eye
> as long as it's in an experimental craft. The DME, GPS receiver,
> GS/marker, gyrocompass, intercom, TCAS, VOR, LOC and VHF recievers would
> all be totally acceptable to the FCC. The transmitting portions (VHF
> amplifier, COM transmitter, and radio altimeter) would be asking for
> trouble.
>
> All the antennaes would be acceptable, because an antennae is not a
> transmitter?
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: First Start of my rotary |
At 10:40 PM 5/30/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>Just a quick note to announce the first starts of my 13b rotary engine in
>my Velocity SE wired with Bob's Z-14 diagrams. Thanks for the great info
>in the book and on this list. It provides a great deal of piece of
>mind. If you are interested in more details check out my posts or those
>of my buddy David Staten who is helping me in the build, on
><http://www.canardaviation.com>www.canardaviation.com or the flyrotary
>email list. Thanks Bob.
>
>All the best,
Great news! There's always a note of well earned satisfaction
at every project's milestones. We're putting the finishing
touches on a remodeling of three rooms and a hall in our house.
Long hours of prep, a few hours of broad-roller-progress and
many square-feet-per-hour of flooring going down . . . then
more long hours of detailed finish work for the bits and pieces
at the edges. But when the paint was done, and all the flat stuff
down on the floor, the light at the end of the tunnel turned out
not to be an oncoming train. All I have left is a dozen or so
pieces of base-board to put down.
Getting the engine to run and show nice numbers on the gages
has to be a rush. I'm pleased that this important milestone
is now behind you. Keep us apprised of your progress!
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: We can't build our own avionics |
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> DME has a transmitter. It transmits a signal to the ground station, and determines
distance by measuring the delay before the ground station responds.
>
I did not know that. Thank you.
> TCAS also has a transmitter - it interrogates any transponders in the area and
builds its knowledge of conflicting traffic based on the responses it gets.
>
There are also passive ones that only display what they've received,
depending on other interrogation sources to set off everyone's
transponder; however, it appears that this ain't one of those. Reading
the instructions, it appears that this one is a full fledged transponder
as well as a warning system.
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Garmin 396 display crazing |
At 02:55 PM 5/31/2007 +0000, you wrote:
>
>I just saw a Garmin 396 last night a friend borrowed for a trip. It was in
>perfect condition when he borrowed it. The clear plastic you view the
>display through now looks like my plastic lens glasses that have a
>coating, and the coating is all crazed, many fine cracks that at first
>glance look like scratches.
>
>He fessed cleaning the display with Pledge. I suspect may have caused the
>problem?
>
>1) How is clear plastic best (real world) cleaned on Garmin GPS?
>
>2) What ruins plastic and is best avoided? I have a 296
>
>3) Anyone have any ideas if you can return finish to display? Or polish it
>out?
>
>4) Any idea how much cost to replace plastic?
>
>Thx.
>Ron Parigoris
"Plastics" come in a host of compounds optimized for some
desired quality. Obviously, the transparent cover over a screen
needs to be transparent and reasonably robust . . . but these
qualities may not be compatible with designing in a resistance
to the effects of some solvents. I'm a bit mystified about the
Pledge . . . we used it a lot on plexiglas windshields and
a variety of leading edge paints on lots of airplanes. Further,
Pledge is compatible with a wide variety of finishes on wood.
Pledge is demonstrably non-antagonistic in a host of applications.
You might try this experiment. Carefully mask off all but the
exposed surface of the damaged plastic. Then spray on a thin
coat of polyurethane from a spray can. The coat will need to
be thick enough for the material to self-level as a liquid.
I've repaired a number of screens that were either scratched
or crazed by various stresses using this technique. If this
is not successful, you'll need to have it repaired which may
mean returning it to a Garmin repair shop.
I used to send intractable cases to a local instrument shop
that stocked various thicknesses and formulations of face
cover glass. He could probably put a real glass face on
your GPS . . . but that guy retired about 15 years ago.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Garmin 396 display crazing |
I just thought of something else...
Most display plastic lenses are shipped when new with a protective layer
of thin, soft plastic over the lens. This is meant to be peeled off
before use. Not unlike the plastic sheet that comes on one side of
acrylic or Lexan.
I have seen MANY displays on other equipment that have been used for
years with this sheet still in place. And when the owner complains
about poor visibility of the display, I have often only had to remove
the protective layer that they didn't know was there!
Is it possible that you are just seeing this protective sheet that was
never removed, and all will be well if it is peeled off?
Harley Dixon
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
> At 02:55 PM 5/31/2007 +0000, you wrote:
>
>>
>> I just saw a Garmin 396 last night a friend borrowed for a trip. It
>> was in
>> perfect condition when he borrowed it. The clear plastic you view the
>> display through now looks like my plastic lens glasses that have a
>> coating, and the coating is all crazed, many fine cracks that at first
>> glance look like scratches.
>>
>> He fessed cleaning the display with Pledge. I suspect may have caused
>> the
>> problem?
>>
>> 1) How is clear plastic best (real world) cleaned on Garmin GPS?
>>
>> 2) What ruins plastic and is best avoided? I have a 296
>>
>> 3) Anyone have any ideas if you can return finish to display? Or
>> polish it
>> out?
>>
>> 4) Any idea how much cost to replace plastic?
>>
>> Thx.
>> Ron Parigoris
>
> "Plastics" come in a host of compounds optimized for some
> desired quality. Obviously, the transparent cover over a screen
> needs to be transparent and reasonably robust . . . but these
> qualities may not be compatible with designing in a resistance
> to the effects of some solvents. I'm a bit mystified about the
> Pledge . . . we used it a lot on plexiglas windshields and
> a variety of leading edge paints on lots of airplanes. Further,
> Pledge is compatible with a wide variety of finishes on wood.
> Pledge is demonstrably non-antagonistic in a host of applications.
>
> You might try this experiment. Carefully mask off all but the
> exposed surface of the damaged plastic. Then spray on a thin
> coat of polyurethane from a spray can. The coat will need to
> be thick enough for the material to self-level as a liquid.
>
> I've repaired a number of screens that were either scratched
> or crazed by various stresses using this technique. If this
> is not successful, you'll need to have it repaired which may
> mean returning it to a Garmin repair shop.
>
> I used to send intractable cases to a local instrument shop
> that stocked various thicknesses and formulations of face
> cover glass. He could probably put a real glass face on
> your GPS . . . but that guy retired about 15 years ago.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------
> ( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
> ( give some practical results, but )
> ( that's not why we do it." )
> ( )
> ( Richard P. Feynman )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: We can't build our own avionics |
If I'm understanding what you're saying, the NAV portion of his NAV/COM would be
totally acceptable to the FCC, and the FAA wouldn't bat an eye as long as it's
in
an experimental craft.
Prbably true as it is only a receiver.
The DME, GPS receiver, GS/marker, gyrocompass, intercom, TCAS, VOR, LOC and VHF
recievers would all be totally acceptable to the FCC.
Again probably true
The transmitting portions (VHF amplifier, COM transmitter, and radio altimeter)
would be asking for trouble.
Yes anything that transmits would have to be approved.
All the antennaes would be acceptable, because an antennae is not a transmitter?
Yes
Dennis
N4ZKR
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Garmin 396 display crazing |
I wonder if the Garmin's have an antiglare coating which the Pledge might
have 'fouled.'
Regards,
Matt-
> <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
> At 02:55 PM 5/31/2007 +0000, you wrote:
>
>>
>>I just saw a Garmin 396 last night a friend borrowed for a trip. It was
>> in
>>perfect condition when he borrowed it. The clear plastic you view the
>>display through now looks like my plastic lens glasses that have a
>>coating, and the coating is all crazed, many fine cracks that at first
>>glance look like scratches.
>>
>>He fessed cleaning the display with Pledge. I suspect may have caused the
>>problem?
>>
>>1) How is clear plastic best (real world) cleaned on Garmin GPS?
>>
>>2) What ruins plastic and is best avoided? I have a 296
>>
>>3) Anyone have any ideas if you can return finish to display? Or polish
>> it
>>out?
>>
>>4) Any idea how much cost to replace plastic?
>>
>>Thx.
>>Ron Parigoris
>
> "Plastics" come in a host of compounds optimized for some
> desired quality. Obviously, the transparent cover over a screen
> needs to be transparent and reasonably robust . . . but these
> qualities may not be compatible with designing in a resistance
> to the effects of some solvents. I'm a bit mystified about the
> Pledge . . . we used it a lot on plexiglas windshields and
> a variety of leading edge paints on lots of airplanes. Further,
> Pledge is compatible with a wide variety of finishes on wood.
> Pledge is demonstrably non-antagonistic in a host of applications.
>
> You might try this experiment. Carefully mask off all but the
> exposed surface of the damaged plastic. Then spray on a thin
> coat of polyurethane from a spray can. The coat will need to
> be thick enough for the material to self-level as a liquid.
>
> I've repaired a number of screens that were either scratched
> or crazed by various stresses using this technique. If this
> is not successful, you'll need to have it repaired which may
> mean returning it to a Garmin repair shop.
>
> I used to send intractable cases to a local instrument shop
> that stocked various thicknesses and formulations of face
> cover glass. He could probably put a real glass face on
> your GPS . . . but that guy retired about 15 years ago.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------
> ( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
> ( give some practical results, but )
> ( that's not why we do it." )
> ( )
> ( Richard P. Feynman )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Garmin 396 display crazing |
They do (at least the 496 does) and they caution against fingerprints,
etc. on the screen.
Dick Tasker
Matt Prather wrote:
>
>I wonder if the Garmin's have an antiglare coating which the Pledge might
>have 'fouled.'
>
>
>Regards,
>
>Matt-
>
>
>
>><nuckollsr@cox.net>
>>
>>At 02:55 PM 5/31/2007 +0000, you wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>I just saw a Garmin 396 last night a friend borrowed for a trip. It was
>>>in
>>>perfect condition when he borrowed it. The clear plastic you view the
>>>display through now looks like my plastic lens glasses that have a
>>>coating, and the coating is all crazed, many fine cracks that at first
>>>glance look like scratches.
>>>
>>>He fessed cleaning the display with Pledge. I suspect may have caused the
>>>problem?
>>>
>>>1) How is clear plastic best (real world) cleaned on Garmin GPS?
>>>
>>>2) What ruins plastic and is best avoided? I have a 296
>>>
>>>3) Anyone have any ideas if you can return finish to display? Or polish
>>>it
>>>out?
>>>
>>>4) Any idea how much cost to replace plastic?
>>>
>>>Thx.
>>>Ron Parigoris
>>>
>>>
>> "Plastics" come in a host of compounds optimized for some
>> desired quality. Obviously, the transparent cover over a screen
>> needs to be transparent and reasonably robust . . . but these
>> qualities may not be compatible with designing in a resistance
>> to the effects of some solvents. I'm a bit mystified about the
>> Pledge . . . we used it a lot on plexiglas windshields and
>> a variety of leading edge paints on lots of airplanes. Further,
>> Pledge is compatible with a wide variety of finishes on wood.
>> Pledge is demonstrably non-antagonistic in a host of applications.
>>
>> You might try this experiment. Carefully mask off all but the
>> exposed surface of the damaged plastic. Then spray on a thin
>> coat of polyurethane from a spray can. The coat will need to
>> be thick enough for the material to self-level as a liquid.
>>
>> I've repaired a number of screens that were either scratched
>> or crazed by various stresses using this technique. If this
>> is not successful, you'll need to have it repaired which may
>> mean returning it to a Garmin repair shop.
>>
>> I used to send intractable cases to a local instrument shop
>> that stocked various thicknesses and formulations of face
>> cover glass. He could probably put a real glass face on
>> your GPS . . . but that guy retired about 15 years ago.
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>> ----------------------------------------
>> ( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
>> ( give some practical results, but )
>> ( that's not why we do it." )
>> ( )
>> ( Richard P. Feynman )
>> ----------------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: We can't build our own avionics |
On Thu, 31 May 2007 13:35:00 -0400
Ernest Christley <echristley@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Kevin Horton wrote:
> >
> > TCAS also has a transmitter - it interrogates any transponders in the area
and builds its knowledge of conflicting traffic based on the responses it gets.
> >
> There are also passive ones that only display what they've received,
> depending on other interrogation sources to set off everyone's
> transponder; however, it appears that this ain't one of those. Reading
> the instructions, it appears that this one is a full fledged transponder
> as well as a warning system.
A passive system would be unable to comply with the RTCA TCAS requirements. If
it doesn't transmit, it may be a collision warning system, but it is not TCAS.
Kevin Horton
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: Garmin 396 display crazing |
Matt Prather wrote:
>
> I wonder if the Garmin's have an antiglare coating which the Pledge might
> have 'fouled.'
>
>
>
Isn't propane used as a propellant in most aerosols?
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Garmin 396 display crazing |
At 02:55 PM 5/31/2007 +0000, you wrote:
>
>I just saw a Garmin 396 last night a friend borrowed for a trip. It was in
>perfect condition when he borrowed it. The clear plastic you view the
>display through now looks like my plastic lens glasses that have a
>coating, and the coating is all crazed, many fine cracks that at first
>glance look like scratches.
>
>He fessed cleaning the display with Pledge. I suspect may have caused the
>problem?
>
>1) How is clear plastic best (real world) cleaned on Garmin GPS?
>
>2) What ruins plastic and is best avoided? I have a 296
>
>3) Anyone have any ideas if you can return finish to display? Or polish it
>out?
>
>4) Any idea how much cost to replace plastic?
>
>Thx.
>Ron Parigoris
"Plastics" come in a host of compounds optimized for some
desired quality. Obviously, the transparent cover over a screen
needs to be transparent and reasonably robust . . . but these
qualities may not be compatible with designing in a resistance
to the effects of some solvents.
You might try this experiment. Carefully mask off all but the
exposed surface of the damaged plastic. Then spray on a thin
coat of polyurethane from a spray can. The coat will need to
be thick enough for the material to self-level as a liquid.
I've repaired a number of screens that were either scratched
or crazed by various stresses using this technique. If this
is not successful, you'll need to have it repaired which may
mean returning it to a Garmin repair shop.
I used to send intractable cases to a local instrument shop
that stocked various thicknesses and formulations of face
cover glass. He could probably put a real glass face on
your GPS . . . but that guy retired about 15 years ago.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: We can't build our own avionics |
> would be totally acceptable to the FCC, and the FAA wouldn't bat an eye
> as long as it's in an experimental craft. The DME, GPS receiver,
> GS/marker, gyrocompass, intercom, TCAS, VOR, LOC and VHF recievers would
> all be totally acceptable to the FCC. The transmitting portions (VHF
> amplifier, COM transmitter, and radio altimeter) would be asking for
> trouble.
>
> All the antennaes would be acceptable, because an antennae is not a
> transmitter?
Looks like you are correct. Part 87 does not have a certification exception:
> (c) The equipment listed below is exempted from certification. The
> operation of transmitters which have not been certificated must not
> result in harmful interference due to the failure of those transmitters
> to comply with technical standards of this subpart.
> (1) Flight test station transmitters for limited periods where
> justified.
> (2) U.S. Government transmitters furnished in the performance of a
> U.S. Government contract if the use of certificated equipment would
> increase the cost of the contract or if the transmitter will be
> incorporated in the finished product. However, such equipment must meet
> the technical standards contained in this subpart.
> (3) ELTs verified in accordance with Sec. 87.147(e).
> (4) Signal generators when used as radionavigation land test
> stations (MTF).
Steve
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=115812#115812
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: Garmin 396 display crazing |
Butane replaced freon...at least it's the propellant of choice before I
retired (pharmaceuticals) and also for the other companies that our
equipment suppliers provided aerosol packaging equipment for.
Doesn't affect the plastic spray nozzles or the dip tubes that are
immersed in it.
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ernest Christley wrote:
> <echristley@nc.rr.com>
>
> Matt Prather wrote:
>> <mprather@spro.net>
>>
>> I wonder if the Garmin's have an antiglare coating which the Pledge
>> might
>> have 'fouled.'
>>
>>
>>
>
> Isn't propane used as a propellant in most aerosols?
>
>
Message 25
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Subject: | Re: We can't build our own avionics |
There's an alternative system that is being used on many sailplanes in
Europe. It's actively transmitting it's GPS coordinates on one of the free
industrial frequency bands and listening for others. Check out Flarm
(http://www.flarm.com/index_en.html). Depending on the local regulations
this may 'fly' in your region too...
Rob
>> > TCAS also has a transmitter - it interrogates any transponders in the
>> > area and builds its knowledge of conflicting traffic based on the
>> > responses it gets.
>> >
>> There are also passive ones that only display what they've received,
>> depending on other interrogation sources to set off everyone's
>> transponder; however, it appears that this ain't one of those. Reading
>> the instructions, it appears that this one is a full fledged transponder
>> as well as a warning system.
>
> A passive system would be unable to comply with the RTCA TCAS
> requirements. If it doesn't transmit, it may be a collision warning
> system, but it is not TCAS.
>
> Kevin Horton
Message 26
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Subject: | Another myth bites the dust. |
For a number of years, we've wrestled with a combination of
vague instructions and/or ol' mechanic's tales about using
high melting point solder on the pins of a pitot tube connector.
Thanks to the generous loan of his new 14v pitot tube, Bill
Crook made it possible to check this out.
After 2 hours of operation at 13.5 volts on the bench, a
thermocouple on the solder joints of the connector rose
to 240 degrees F, about 200 degrees lower than the melting
point for the solder.
Ordinary 63/37 solder is entirely suitable for making
these joints.
Thanks Bill. Your pitot tube is in the mail.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
Message 27
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Subject: | Another myth bites the dust. |
For a number of years, we've wrestled with a combination of
vague instructions and/or ol' mechanic's tales about using
high melting point solder on the pins of a pitot tube connector.
Thanks to the generous loan of his new 14v pitot tube, Bill
Crook made it possible to check this out.
After 2 hours of operation at 13.5 volts on the bench, a
thermocouple on the solder joints of the connector rose
to 240 degrees F, about 200 degrees lower than the melting
point for the solder.
Ordinary 63/37 solder is entirely suitable for making
these joints.
Thanks Bill. Your pitot tube is in the mail.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
Message 28
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Subject: | Garmin 396 display crazing |
If the deed was done with Pledge it is not likely that you will be able to
remove the stuff completely, because one of the ingredients in Pledge is 3
to 5% SILICONE FLUID, DOW CORNING 200, per the MSDS. Silicones are
notoriously difficult to remove because they are virtually unaffected by all
solvents. The other main ingredient is ISOPARAFFINIC HYDROCARBONS (NAPHTHA
PETROLEUM), at 10 to 20% concentration, and this stuff is at least soluble
in non-polar solvents. The bad news is that what is likely to dissolve this
ingredient is also likely to damage the plastic if it is polycarbonate (aka
Lexan) or acrylic (aka Plexiglas, Lucite, Perspex). Soapy water is probably
the safest choice is you are not sure if the material is plastic or glass.
If the LCD panel is glass then just about any solvent is safe.
Regardless of the substrate material, anti-reflective coatings are inorganic
and thus impervious to most solvents, but are relatively delicate and will
be damaged by aggressive rubbing.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, California
Europa XS Tri-Gear
S/N A070
Airframe complete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2007 7:55 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Garmin 396 display crazing
I just saw a Garmin 396 last night a friend borrowed for a trip. It was in
perfect condition when he borrowed it. The clear plastic you view the
display through now looks like my plastic lens glasses that have a
coating, and the coating is all crazed, many fine cracks that at first
glance look like scratches.
He fessed cleaning the display with Pledge. I suspect may have caused the
problem?
1) How is clear plastic best (real world) cleaned on Garmin GPS?
2) What ruins plastic and is best avoided? I have a 296
3) Anyone have any ideas if you can return finish to display? Or polish it
out?
4) Any idea how much cost to replace plastic?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
Message 29
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Subject: | Re: Another myth bites the dust. |
On 31 May 2007, at 11:54, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
>
> For a number of years, we've wrestled with a combination of
> vague instructions and/or ol' mechanic's tales about using
> high melting point solder on the pins of a pitot tube connector.
>
> Thanks to the generous loan of his new 14v pitot tube, Bill
> Crook made it possible to check this out.
>
> After 2 hours of operation at 13.5 volts on the bench, a
> thermocouple on the solder joints of the connector rose
> to 240 degrees F, about 200 degrees lower than the melting
> point for the solder.
>
> Ordinary 63/37 solder is entirely suitable for making
> these joints.
What make and model was the pitot tube?
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 30
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Subject: | Re: Garmin 396 display crazing |
Thx. to all who replied.
I believe the crazing on my plastic glasses is in fact a anti reflective
coating that has been damaged.
My glasses have seen Ispropyl alcohol 100% splashed on by accident, and my
kids using windex on them to help me see better, and soapy water that was
a bit hot.
I am not positive if one of the mentioned did the coating in, but I
suspect yes.
The crazing I saw on the 396 looked the same as on my glasses. Pledge may
work OK on uncoated plastic (I don't think aeroplane glass has anti glare
coating on it??) but may need to rethink about using on treated plastic.
If someone has an old pair of glasses with plastic lenses that are not
crazed, mind trying some pledge, then isopropyl alcohol, then windex, then
very hot soapy water on them to see if any one causes crazing?
To answer question, the protective layer was not installed.
Ron Parigoris
Message 31
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Subject: | Re: Garmin 396 display crazing |
To minimize the Dow Corning 200 silicone fluid I would suggest placing a
soft absorbent cloth such as 100 % cotton on the treated display area of the
396 for a day or so. Then polish the surface with a fresh piece of the
cloth.This will probably not remove all traces of the silicone fluid but the
fluid has a very low surface tension and will now be spread very thin. To
thin to cause any visual distortion. The silicone fluid is inert and would
have had no reaction to the display be it a plastic or glass.
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
Aero Plantation NC
Retired Dow Corning Corporation
--- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Housman" <robh@hyperion-ef.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2007 5:32 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Garmin 396 display crazing
> <robh@hyperion-ef.com>
>
> If the deed was done with Pledge it is not likely that you will be able to
> remove the stuff completely, because one of the ingredients in Pledge is 3
> to 5% SILICONE FLUID, DOW CORNING 200, per the MSDS. Silicones are
> notoriously difficult to remove because they are virtually unaffected by
> all
> solvents. The other main ingredient is ISOPARAFFINIC HYDROCARBONS
> (NAPHTHA
> PETROLEUM), at 10 to 20% concentration, and this stuff is at least soluble
> in non-polar solvents. The bad news is that what is likely to dissolve
> this
> ingredient is also likely to damage the plastic if it is polycarbonate
> (aka
> Lexan) or acrylic (aka Plexiglas, Lucite, Perspex). Soapy water is
> probably
> the safest choice is you are not sure if the material is plastic or glass.
> If the LCD panel is glass then just about any solvent is safe.
>
> Regardless of the substrate material, anti-reflective coatings are
> inorganic
> and thus impervious to most solvents, but are relatively delicate and will
> be damaged by aggressive rubbing.
>
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rob Housman
> Irvine, California
> Europa XS Tri-Gear
> S/N A070
> Airframe complete
> I just saw a Garmin 396 last night a friend borrowed for a trip. It was in
> perfect condition when he borrowed it. The clear plastic you view the
> display through now looks like my plastic lens glasses that have a
> coating, and the coating is all crazed, many fine cracks that at first
> glance look like scratches.
>
> He fessed cleaning the display with Pledge. I suspect may have caused the
> problem?
>
> 1) How is clear plastic best (real world) cleaned on Garmin GPS?
>
> 2) What ruins plastic and is best avoided? I have a 296
>
> 3) Anyone have any ideas if you can return finish to display? Or polish it
> out?
>
> 4) Any idea how much cost to replace plastic?
>
> Thx.
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
>
Message 32
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|
Subject: | Re: Another myth bites the dust. |
For a number of years, we've wrestled with a combination of
vague instructions and/or ol' mechanic's tales about using
high melting point solder on the pins of a pitot tube connector.
Thanks to the generous loan of his new 14v pitot tube, Bill
Crook made it possible to check this out.
After 2 hours of operation at 13.5 volts on the bench, a
thermocouple on the solder joints of the connector rose
to 240 degrees F, about 200 degrees lower than the melting
point for the solder.
Ordinary 63/37 solder is entirely suitable for making
these joints.
> What make and model was the pitot tube?
Aero Instruments. A PH-502-12 I believe.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
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Subject: | Re: Hitachi Alternator |
Thought I'd update the group on my Hitachi IR alternator situation now
that the problem is behind me (I think :-)
I removed the alternator from the airplane, clamped it in my bench vise,
hooked up a 12V power supply to provide excitation current, and turned
the rotor with my electric drill. I was always able to make it start
but there were some "dead spots" as indicated by the changing current
drawn from the excitation power supply which indicated worn brushes.
Sure enough, when I opened it up I found one brush nearly gone.
I don't know how he did it but bless him: George, gmcjetpilot, was able
to tell me a make/model and a Lester number so I was able to order an
inexpensive replacement from rockauto.com. (It's used in the 1980
Nissan B720 pickup and my replacement was remanufactured by Remy).
Installed in the airplane: ops check good on a ground run. (Tomorrow
I'll fly it).
After a thorough cleanup I'll replace the brushes and keep the old unit
as a spare since the slip rings, bearings, and everything else looks good.
--
Joe
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Joe Dubner K7JD | 523 Cedar Avenue | http://www.mail2600.com
Long-EZ 821RP | Lewiston, ID 83501 | +1 208 816-6359
--------------------------------------------------------------------
On 5/10/2007 12:09 PM Joe Dubner wrote:
> My O235 Long-EZ has experienced some sort of charging system failure.
> It was intermittent at first but now it does nothing -- I flew home
> battery only. So I suspect it's time for brush replacement on my
> automotive alternator and I'd like to buy some brushes at the local auto
> parts store.
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Subject: | Re: We can't build our own avionics |
Rob Turk wrote:
>
> There's an alternative system that is being used on many sailplanes in
> Europe. It's actively transmitting it's GPS coordinates on one of the
> free industrial frequency bands and listening for others. Check out
> Flarm (http://www.flarm.com/index_en.html). Depending on the local
> regulations this may 'fly' in your region too...
>
This sounds like an excellent idea. Get out of the aircraft
frequencies, into an area where special permission isn't
needed...however....
The problem I see here is that everyone needs to agree on what frequency
is being used. All the homebuilder load up with gear that can talk to
their cordless phone, and all the certified guys (including the big
iron) loads up with ADS-B equipment. We don't see them and they don't
see us. Kinda misses the point.
One of my local chapter members is helping the NC DOT push ADS-B here.
He considers $3K to be "low-cost" for such a system. My thoughts are
$100 for a GPS and $50 reciever, outputting NMEA sentences to a BASIC
stamp, which can tickle an audio chip to give the pilot warnings.
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Subject: | Grimes Pin Outs and Installation Wiring. |
Good Evening All,
I have a Grimes P/N G-9950-1 Oscillating Beacon and a Grimes P/N 5530
Retractable Landing Light which I would like to install. I suppose if I were
a
sharper electrician I could figure out which wire goes where, but if anyone
could steer me to a pin out and/or the installation instructions for either or
both of these units I would sure be grateful.
The Oscillating Beacon has a Cannon style three pin plug receptacle which is
about one half inch in diameter. It has some labeling near the pins. May be
A, B and C, but I really can't tell for sure.
The landing light has a three pin receptacle which is about one inch in
diameter and that one is definitely labeled A, B and C.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Subject: | Re: Hitachi Alternator |
Thanks for the update Joe..
Hope you have good luck with the Remy rebuilt unit.
Regards,
Matt-
>
> Thought I'd update the group on my Hitachi IR alternator situation now
> that the problem is behind me (I think :-)
>
> I removed the alternator from the airplane, clamped it in my bench vise,
> hooked up a 12V power supply to provide excitation current, and turned
> the rotor with my electric drill. I was always able to make it start
> but there were some "dead spots" as indicated by the changing current
> drawn from the excitation power supply which indicated worn brushes.
> Sure enough, when I opened it up I found one brush nearly gone.
>
> I don't know how he did it but bless him: George, gmcjetpilot, was able
> to tell me a make/model and a Lester number so I was able to order an
> inexpensive replacement from rockauto.com. (It's used in the 1980
> Nissan B720 pickup and my replacement was remanufactured by Remy).
>
> Installed in the airplane: ops check good on a ground run. (Tomorrow
> I'll fly it).
>
> After a thorough cleanup I'll replace the brushes and keep the old unit
> as a spare since the slip rings, bearings, and everything else looks good.
>
> --
> Joe
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> Joe Dubner K7JD | 523 Cedar Avenue | http://www.mail2600.com
> Long-EZ 821RP | Lewiston, ID 83501 | +1 208 816-6359
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> On 5/10/2007 12:09 PM Joe Dubner wrote:
>> My O235 Long-EZ has experienced some sort of charging system failure.
>> It was intermittent at first but now it does nothing -- I flew home
>> battery only. So I suspect it's time for brush replacement on my
>> automotive alternator and I'd like to buy some brushes at the local auto
>> parts store.
>
>
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