Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:35 AM - Battery switch ()
2. 03:17 PM - Re: GRT-EIS Tach input (Peter Pengilly)
3. 05:02 PM - Latest GTX-327 manual? (Alan K. Adamson)
4. 06:24 PM - Best Practices - Resistors and pre-made harnesses (Dan Reeves)
5. 08:02 PM - Battery switch (Fergus Kyle)
6. 08:43 PM - Battery Switches (NEMuzzy)
Message 1
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6/25/2007
Hello Ferg, Here is a company that sells a variety of mechanical battery
switches.
You might also want to consider this solenoid type switch with a very low
amperage holding power.
http://bluesea.com/category/1/products/5301
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
Time: 06:07:01 PM PST US
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Battery switch
Cheers,
I have read that some are substituting race-car kill switches for
battery contactors. At present I plan to start with only about 20 amps
dynamo and regret the constant load of a contactor.
If you are operating such a devise, I would admire a short
description and appreciation of its use - and perhaps a point toward a
useful source. US or UK no problem.
Thanks,
Ferg
Europa Classic 914 mono
Message 2
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Subject: | GRT-EIS Tach input |
The tach input to the EIS is fine if it comes from the back of the mag
switches. Don't forget to put the 27Kohm resistors in series from mag
switch to input change over switch. Doesn't need to be shielded, but
probably won't hurt. See Bob's notes on grounding P leads (IIRC should
not be connected to earth at the mag switch end), any continuation wire
should be grounded at one end only - probably EIS end - and will not
form any part of the mag grounding circuit. The purpose of the 27Kohm
resistor is to make sure that's so.
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
carlrai@aol.com
Sent: 23 June 2007 11:56
Subject: AeroElectric-List: GRT-EIS Tach input
Fellow Builders,
Currently close to completing wiring on an RV-9A. Among the last of the
connections to complete are the tach input to the GR EIS.
I'm going to connect both mags to the input, using a switch to select L
or R input for RPM drop at runup. Two toggle switches are used for the
L and R mag on/off.
Do I need to connect the tach input directly to the mags using a
seperate shielded wire or can I simply use a double faston tab at the
toggle switch to continue the mag wire to the EIS input? I assume if a
continuation is acceptable, it should also be shielded with the shield
grounded at the mag switch end - for noise only, not as part of the
grounding circuit to shut down the mags.
Any and all suggestions are appreciated.
Carl Raichle
Lutz, FL
_____
AOL at <http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000437> AOL.com.
Message 3
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Subject: | Latest GTX-327 manual? |
Anyone have a Rev K. of the 327 Transponder manual? The one that is
publicly available is only J, and yet I have one page from a K and would
like to see the remainder as the page I have a pretty different from the J
version of the same page (it's the wiring schematic :) ).
Thanks in advance,
Alan
Message 4
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Subject: | Best Practices - Resistors and pre-made harnesses |
I have a couple of basic questions about best practices...
1.) I have a Dynon EFIS that requires a few resistors on some of the sensor
leads. What is the best way to connect the resistors? Is it OK to crimp fast-on,
butt splices, ring terminals, etc directly onto the resistor itself and cover
/ protect everything with heat shrink?
2.) I have an Approach Systems harness for the Dynon EFIS and the SteinAir harness
for the Dynon EMS. To connect the two units there are a couple of pigtails
that I could just butt splice together. Is this OK to do or should I remove
the wires / pins from one of the harnesses / D-Sub connectors and crimp pins
onto the pigtails of the other pre-fab'd harness and pop those in in their place?
Thanks!
Dan Reeves
RV-7A
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Message 5
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Cheers,
I want to thank all those who answered my question so quickly - Bob,
Nigel, OC, Paul et al. What a library of keen experts to be able to call on!
What a glorious list this is............
I have plans to make a mechanical connection to a back seat battery to allay
any worries about ready availability.
Many thanks again..........
Ferg
Classic 914 Europa mono
Message 6
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Subject: | Battery Switches |
The cheap Harbor Freight type battery disconnects are really cheap, and not
near the quality of the Hella disconnect switch. If the key is flexible
plastic, it is the really cheap version. The better ones are a rigid
plastic.
Side note: We used to build battlebots. When we hit the robots with the
cheap switches, the back end would pop out, and the battery was
disconnected. The Hella switches were better, but still vulnerable. The best
switches that we found were the Flaming River disconnects. Model 1003 or
similar. We replaced the metal handle with a drilled socket, so that we
could turn it on and off with an allen wrench. Similar technique would allow
you to remote mount the switch with a torque tube to actuate it.
The Flaming River switch is about a $60 switch. If you want a high quality
disconnect, this is a good one. The Hella switch is about $19. The really
cheap ones may be OK for a garage test stand.
-Norm
<<>Cheers,
> I have read that some are substituting race-car kill switches for
>battery contactors. At present I plan to start with only about 20 amps
>dynamo and regret the constant load of a contactor.
> If you are operating such a devise, I would admire a short
>description and appreciation of its use - and perhaps a point toward a
>useful source. US or UK no problem.
How much of a reach is it to get at a switch mounted
right next to the battery. Harbor Freight sells a
device that looks like this . . .
http://tinyurl.com/2u7wgj
. . . for about $6.00 . . . oops, strike that. They're
on sale right now for 2.99 at http://harborfreight.com
as item #92688. Marine parts dealers sell a variety of
battery switches too.
I'm working on the alternator drive stand and will
need some high current, manual switches. I think I'll
run down tomorrow and pick up a fist full.
Obviously, for use as a battery contactor replacement,
you want it to be within convenient reach of the pilot.
Bob . . .>>
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