Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:23 AM - Re: Europa-List: Battery switch (Richard Collings)
2. 05:23 AM - Re: Battery Switches (Harley)
3. 05:23 AM - Re: Battery Switches (Harley)
4. 06:15 AM - Re: Battery Switches (paul wilson)
5. 06:57 AM - When Pitch Trim Systems Turn Ugly (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 07:27 AM - Re: Best Practices - Resistors and pre-made harnesses (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 07:28 AM - Orphaned articles (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 08:11 AM - Re: Battery Switches (Ernest Christley)
9. 08:18 AM - suggested vendor? (Ron Quillin)
10. 09:40 AM - Re: Battery Switches ()
11. 09:42 AM - Re: suggested vendor? (Dale Fultz)
12. 11:11 AM - SoS Vibrator Recomendation (Michel Creek)
13. 04:09 PM - suggested vendor? (Ralph Hoover)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Europa-List: Battery switch |
Hi again sorry my first email went wrong , look up www.flamingriver.com they
have a range of switches that I think fit the bill . Regards Richard
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 2:05 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Battery switch
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
>
> Cheers,
> I have read that some are substituting race-car kill switches for
> battery contactors. At present I plan to start with only about 20 amps
> dynamo and regret the constant load of a contactor.
> If you are operating such a devise, I would admire a short
> description and appreciation of its use - and perhaps a point toward a
> useful source. US or UK no problem.
> Thanks,
> Ferg
> Europa Classic 914 mono
>
>
> --
> 11:08
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Switches |
I noticed that Flaming River also has a 100 amps continuous (500 amp for
10 second surges) switch for $26. I would think that that should be
enough for many of our craft (especially if you don't have a starter and
hand prop it).
http://tinyurl.com/34my2a
They also have a combination battery/alternator kill switch, for those
interested in such an animal ($84). Although being a push type and not
a turning switch, it may be easy to accidentally trip it.
http://tinyurl.com/37p54u
Harley Dixon
------------------------------------------------------------------------
NEMuzzy wrote:
>
> The cheap Harbor Freight type battery disconnects are really cheap, and not
> near the quality of the Hella disconnect switch. If the key is flexible
> plastic, it is the really cheap version. The better ones are a rigid
> plastic.
>
> Side note: We used to build battlebots. When we hit the robots with the
> cheap switches, the back end would pop out, and the battery was
> disconnected. The Hella switches were better, but still vulnerable. The best
> switches that we found were the Flaming River disconnects. Model 1003 or
> similar. We replaced the metal handle with a drilled socket, so that we
> could turn it on and off with an allen wrench. Similar technique would allow
> you to remote mount the switch with a torque tube to actuate it.
>
> The Flaming River switch is about a $60 switch. If you want a high quality
> disconnect, this is a good one. The Hella switch is about $19. The really
> cheap ones may be OK for a garage test stand.
>
> -Norm
>
> <<>Cheers,
>
>> I have read that some are substituting race-car kill switches for
>> battery contactors. At present I plan to start with only about 20 amps
>> dynamo and regret the constant load of a contactor.
>> If you are operating such a devise, I would admire a short
>> description and appreciation of its use - and perhaps a point toward a
>> useful source. US or UK no problem.
>>
>
> How much of a reach is it to get at a switch mounted
> right next to the battery. Harbor Freight sells a
> device that looks like this . . .
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2u7wgj
>
> . . . for about $6.00 . . . oops, strike that. They're
> on sale right now for 2.99 at http://harborfreight.com
> as item #92688. Marine parts dealers sell a variety of
> battery switches too.
>
> I'm working on the alternator drive stand and will
> need some high current, manual switches. I think I'll
> run down tomorrow and pick up a fist full.
>
> Obviously, for use as a battery contactor replacement,
> you want it to be within convenient reach of the pilot.
>
> Bob . . .>>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Switches |
I noticed that Flaming River also has a 100 amps continuous (500 amp for
10 second surges) switch for $26. I would think that that should be
enough for many of our craft (especially if you don't have a starter and
hand prop it).
http://tinyurl.com/34my2a
They also have a combination battery/alternator kill switch, for those
interested in such an animal ($84). Although being a push type and not
a turning switch, it may be easy to accidentally trip it.
http://tinyurl.com/37p54u
Harley Dixon
------------------------------------------------------------------------
NEMuzzy wrote:
>
> The cheap Harbor Freight type battery disconnects are really cheap, and not
> near the quality of the Hella disconnect switch. If the key is flexible
> plastic, it is the really cheap version. The better ones are a rigid
> plastic.
>
> Side note: We used to build battlebots. When we hit the robots with the
> cheap switches, the back end would pop out, and the battery was
> disconnected. The Hella switches were better, but still vulnerable. The best
> switches that we found were the Flaming River disconnects. Model 1003 or
> similar. We replaced the metal handle with a drilled socket, so that we
> could turn it on and off with an allen wrench. Similar technique would allow
> you to remote mount the switch with a torque tube to actuate it.
>
> The Flaming River switch is about a $60 switch. If you want a high quality
> disconnect, this is a good one. The Hella switch is about $19. The really
> cheap ones may be OK for a garage test stand.
>
> -Norm
>
> <<>Cheers,
>
>> I have read that some are substituting race-car kill switches for
>> battery contactors. At present I plan to start with only about 20 amps
>> dynamo and regret the constant load of a contactor.
>> If you are operating such a devise, I would admire a short
>> description and appreciation of its use - and perhaps a point toward a
>> useful source. US or UK no problem.
>>
>
> How much of a reach is it to get at a switch mounted
> right next to the battery. Harbor Freight sells a
> device that looks like this . . .
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2u7wgj
>
> . . . for about $6.00 . . . oops, strike that. They're
> on sale right now for 2.99 at http://harborfreight.com
> as item #92688. Marine parts dealers sell a variety of
> battery switches too.
>
> I'm working on the alternator drive stand and will
> need some high current, manual switches. I think I'll
> run down tomorrow and pick up a fist full.
>
> Obviously, for use as a battery contactor replacement,
> you want it to be within convenient reach of the pilot.
>
> Bob . . .>>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Switches |
Absolutely correct. Having said that, these cheap switches can be
made to work reliably. What I did after finding high resistance in
one position (1-off 2 version) was to drill out the rivets that hold
it together and fix the internals. Probably wont work on all brands,
but the Autozone version was fixable and remained operational after
my fix. My West Marine version works perfect (1-off-2-both) with
undetectable resistance. It is a make before break which is also a
desirable feature.
IMO, Go with the cheap ones and look at the internals. The low cost
is a big advantage.
Paul
=============================
At 09:36 PM 6/25/2007, you wrote:
>
>The cheap Harbor Freight type battery disconnects are really cheap, and not
>near the quality of the Hella disconnect switch. If the key is flexible
>plastic, it is the really cheap version. The better ones are a rigid
>plastic.
>
>Side note: We used to build battlebots. When we hit the robots with the
>cheap switches, the back end would pop out, and the battery was
>disconnected. The Hella switches were better, but still vulnerable. The best
>switches that we found were the Flaming River disconnects. Model 1003 or
>similar. We replaced the metal handle with a drilled socket, so that we
>could turn it on and off with an allen wrench. Similar technique would allow
>you to remote mount the switch with a torque tube to actuate it.
>
>The Flaming River switch is about a $60 switch. If you want a high quality
>disconnect, this is a good one. The Hella switch is about $19. The really
>cheap ones may be OK for a garage test stand.
>
>-Norm
>
><<>Cheers,
> > I have read that some are substituting race-car kill switches for
> >battery contactors. At present I plan to start with only about 20 amps
> >dynamo and regret the constant load of a contactor.
> > If you are operating such a devise, I would admire a short
> >description and appreciation of its use - and perhaps a point toward a
> >useful source. US or UK no problem.
>
> How much of a reach is it to get at a switch mounted
> right next to the battery. Harbor Freight sells a
> device that looks like this . . .
>
>http://tinyurl.com/2u7wgj
>
> . . . for about $6.00 . . . oops, strike that. They're
> on sale right now for 2.99 at http://harborfreight.com
> as item #92688. Marine parts dealers sell a variety of
> battery switches too.
>
> I'm working on the alternator drive stand and will
> need some high current, manual switches. I think I'll
> run down tomorrow and pick up a fist full.
>
> Obviously, for use as a battery contactor replacement,
> you want it to be within convenient reach of the pilot.
>
> Bob . . .>>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | When Pitch Trim Systems Turn Ugly |
The article I posted earlier this month has been combed
again for spelling and typos. Revision B is available at:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Trim_System_Failures.pdf
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Best Practices - Resistors and pre-made harnesses |
At 06:20 PM 6/25/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>I have a couple of basic questions about best practices...
>
>1.) I have a Dynon EFIS that requires a few resistors on some of the
>sensor leads. What is the best way to connect the resistors? Is it OK to
>crimp fast-on, butt splices, ring terminals, etc directly onto the
>resistor itself and cover / protect everything with heat shrink?
>
Consider the techniques described in:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Homeless/Homeless_Components.htm
Hazards to functionality focus on robustness of the components.
Even tho your electrical requirements may be satisfied with say
a 1/4 watt resistor, you may wish to take advantage of the mechanical
robustness of say 1/2 or 1-watt resistors.
>2.) I have an Approach Systems harness for the Dynon EFIS and the SteinAir
>harness for the Dynon EMS. To connect the two units there are a couple of
>pigtails that I could just butt splice together. Is this OK to do or
>should I remove the wires / pins from one of the harnesses / D-Sub
>connectors and crimp pins onto the pigtails of the other pre-fab'd harness
>and pop those in in their place?
Here's a technique to consider when bringing ends of stray
wires together in a wire bundle.
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Tech_Tips/Solder_Lap_Splicing/Solder_Lap_Splices.html
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
Message 7
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| Subject: | Orphaned articles |
Found a few articles on the website that were first posted in the What's New
feature but didn't get listed in the table of contents for articles when the
were removed from What's New. Check out the first few listings under "How To"
at:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles.html
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Switches |
NEMuzzy wrote:
>
> The cheap Harbor Freight type battery disconnects are really cheap, and not
> near the quality of the Hella disconnect switch. If the key is flexible
> plastic, it is the really cheap version. The better ones are a rigid
> plastic.
>
> Side note: We used to build battlebots. When we hit the robots with the
> cheap switches, the back end would pop out, and the battery was
> disconnected.
Are you planning to enter your homebuilt airplane in a battlebot contest?
I'm sure the Hella switch is an excellent feat of engineering, but will
it make a difference for a properly installed, well supported battery
cable in a well protected area?
Message 9
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| Subject: | suggested vendor? |
I see Garmin has what may be a pretty good rebate program for the GMX-200 MFD.
Any suggested avionic vendors for homebuilt vs. certified to check for pricing?
TIA
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Switches |
Speaking from many years of race car experience, you'll find that vibration
is the main enemy of this style of switch. The more robust the switch the
longer its life. I've had "cheap" switches last less than one race weekend,
Hella's are good for a couple of seasons or more and the $$high$$ end
switches last several seasons. Failure is almost always caused by vibration
tearing them apart.
Bob McC
>From: Ernest Christley <echristley@nc.rr.com>
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Battery Switches
>Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 11:08:53 -0400
>
><echristley@nc.rr.com>
>
>NEMuzzy wrote:
>><list01@GourmetDamage.com>
>>
>>The cheap Harbor Freight type battery disconnects are really cheap, and
>>not
>>near the quality of the Hella disconnect switch. If the key is flexible
>>plastic, it is the really cheap version. The better ones are a rigid
>>plastic.
>>
>>Side note: We used to build battlebots. When we hit the robots with the
>>cheap switches, the back end would pop out, and the battery was
>>disconnected.
>Are you planning to enter your homebuilt airplane in a battlebot contest?
>
>I'm sure the Hella switch is an excellent feat of engineering, but will it
>make a difference for a properly installed, well supported battery cable in
>a well protected area?
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: suggested vendor? |
Avionics Unlimited in Conroe Texas treated me great and great prices too..
Very helpful tech support also.. Johnny was great helping me out... Dale
N269DF getting closer
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Quillin" <rjquillin@gmail.com>
Message 12
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| Subject: | SoS Vibrator Recomendation |
Are there any recommendations for purchase of a starting vibrator for Bendix
200 series mags? AC Spruce lists one for $258, but I'm wondering if there
are other options.
Thanks,
Mike Creek
Bearhawk
Message 13
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| Subject: | suggested vendor? |
Good folks,good service good prices. What's not to like:) I don't know about the
MFD but some of their pricing is available via automated E-Mail response.
John Stark
Stark Avionics
5290 East Armour Rd.
Columbus Metro Airport
Columbus, GA 31909
Phn: 706-321-1008
Fax: 706-324-3770
--
Ralph C. Hoover
RV7A
hooverra at verizon dot net
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