Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:34 AM - Final update on Optima Battery with cut top posts (Terry Miles)
2. 07:03 AM - Congratulations (Fergus Kyle)
3. 07:06 AM - Re: Final update on Optima Battery with cut top posts (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 11:42 AM - Comant CI 122 Com antenna installation instructions? (Kevin Horton)
5. 01:21 PM - Re: Comant CI 122 Com antenna installation instructions? (Neal George)
6. 02:53 PM - multi detent 10k potentiometer? (Chris Johnston)
7. 03:02 PM - Re: Comant CI 122 Com antenna installation instructions? (Ralph E. Capen)
8. 03:41 PM - Re: multi detent 10k potentiometer? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 03:53 PM - Soldering to copper foil tape (Ralph E. Capen)
10. 04:43 PM - Re: multi detent 10k potentiometer? (Ron Quillin)
11. 05:07 PM - Re: Final update on Optima Battery with cut top posts (Terry Miles)
12. 05:42 PM - multi detent 10k potentiometer? (Ralph Hoover)
13. 09:18 PM - power wires to strobe power supply (sarg314)
14. 10:02 PM - Re: power wires to strobe power supply (William Gill)
Message 1
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Subject: | Final update on Optima Battery with cut top posts |
Lesson Learned.
I had a Yellow top Optima. I cut the top posts to fit my battery
compartment and shortly after that the battery lost power and would not
accept a charge.
I got the battery back into operation. It seems the inner plug of the top
posts connect to the cells. The outer ring of the top posts connect only to
the side posts which were my connect points to distribution.
By drilling and tapping a quarter/32 screw into those flush cut inner plugs,
I regained access to the cells. The battery is now taking a charge just
fine. Cutting the top posts also improperly vents the interior, so that was
sealed up with some epoxy. It has a new home as drive source to a trolling
motor, and a pair of Odyssey 925s is going in the airplane.
Terry
Message 2
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Bob,
I see you've found what I discovered nearly twenty years ago: "You
don't retire FROM a job, you retire TO something better." Your advice and
opinions have added so much to my understanding over the years that I cannot
think how I might have progressed without them.
Cheers, Ferg
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Final update on Optima Battery with cut top posts |
At 07:31 AM 6/30/2007 -0400, you wrote:
><terrence_miles@hotmail.com>
>
>Lesson Learned.
>I had a Yellow top Optima. I cut the top posts to fit my battery
>compartment and shortly after that the battery lost power and would not
>accept a charge.
>
>I got the battery back into operation. It seems the inner plug of the top
>posts connect to the cells. The outer ring of the top posts connect only to
>the side posts which were my connect points to distribution.
>
>By drilling and tapping a quarter/32 screw into those flush cut inner plugs,
>I regained access to the cells. The battery is now taking a charge just
>fine. Cutting the top posts also improperly vents the interior, so that was
>sealed up with some epoxy. It has a new home as drive source to a trolling
>motor, and a pair of Odyssey 925s is going in the airplane.
>Terry
Good data sir. Thanks for sharing. I'll take this opportunity
to reinforce the notion that there is as much value in
sharing ideas that do not work as there is for sharing
the ones that do work. If you can help another builder avoid
repeating an experiment with a predictably poor outcome, the
$time$ you expended "getting behind" will push him ahead by
the same amount of $time$. If more than one builder benefits
from the information, then the service you've provided becomes
still more valuable.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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Subject: | Comant CI 122 Com antenna installation instructions? |
I'm reviewing the installation of my Comant CI 122 VHF Com antenna,
to see whether I really need a doubler for that antenna or not. I
can't find any installation instructions, other than the generic
instructions they have on the web:
http://www.comant.com/pdfs/AntennaInstall.pdf
CI 122 info:
http://www.comant.com/pdfs/[ci%20122]5-05.pdf
Should I have received installation instructions that were specific
to that antenna model, or are the generic instructions all there is?
If anyone has specific installation instructions for that model, I'd
appreciate learning what they have to say about a doubler.
The antenna is mounted on the bottom of my not yet flying RV-8, under
the front seat, just behind the front spar over at the left side of
the fuselage. The skin is 0.032" thick at that location. My
original installation simply had platenuts riveted to the inside of
the skin to take the four mounting screws, but now I am leaning
towards installing an 0.032" doubler. I have a hard time believing I
really need a doubler for structural reasons, but it will be a lot
easier to install one now than it would be to deal with a skin crack
later.
If people have many hours in service of a similar antenna on 0.032"
skin without a doubler, I would appreciate learning about your
experience.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
do not archive
Message 5
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Subject: | Comant CI 122 Com antenna installation instructions? |
Kevin -
I bought two of those antennas new from Stein. I don't recall finding any
instructions in the boxes. I made doublers (0.032 if memory serves) about
3/4" bigger than the antenna base. Mine are mounted in the cabin floor,
just aft of the spar box, one in each outboard bay.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG
Cowling
+++++++++++++++++
Kevin Horton
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 1:40 PM
I'm reviewing the installation of my Comant CI 122 VHF Com antenna, to see
whether I really need a doubler for that antenna or not. I can't find any
installation instructions, other than the generic instructions they have on
the web:
http://www.comant.com/pdfs/AntennaInstall.pdf
CI 122 info:
http://www.comant.com/pdfs/[ci%20122]5-05.pdf
Should I have received installation instructions that were specific
to that antenna model, or are the generic instructions all there is?
If anyone has specific installation instructions for that model, I'd
appreciate learning what they have to say about a doubler.
The antenna is mounted on the bottom of my not yet flying RV-8, under the
front seat, just behind the front spar over at the left side of the
fuselage. The skin is 0.032" thick at that location. My original
installation simply had platenuts riveted to the inside of the skin to take
the four mounting screws, but now I am leaning towards installing an 0.032"
doubler. I have a hard time believing I really need a doubler for
structural reasons, but it will be a lot easier to install one now than it
would be to deal with a skin crack later.
If people have many hours in service of a similar antenna on 0.032"
skin without a doubler, I would appreciate learning about your experience.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
do not archive
Message 6
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Subject: | multi detent 10k potentiometer? |
Ok smart guys...get ready for a dumb guy question!
What do you call a regular old 10k pot that has multiple detents on it?
I'm trying to find a single turn 10k pot that has a click feel, maybe 20
detents or so, to use with a PWM dimming system for an lcd inverter.
But I have no idea what to call it! so I can't look for it! I tried
and tried, but all I find is pots with center detents, or pots with a
switch at the end, but that's the only detent. I'm very frustrated, and
feeling very stupid. Can someone smarter than me help me out?
Btw, I do know what it's called when you cross a hippopotamus, an
elephant and a rhino. Hellifiknow!
Sorry. and thanks.
cj
#40410
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Comant CI 122 Com antenna installation instructions? |
I just finished that exact evolution. Yes, I did use a doubler...yes, I did
prime it...yes, I cleaned off the screw through contact surfaces as well as
running a drill through the rivet holes to ensure bonding of the doubler
plate to the airframe/antenna.
There was an article in Sport Aviation a while back in addition to other
listers that I referred to as the necessity of the doubler plate
Zap me direct for pictures.
Ralph Capen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01@rogers.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 2:40 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Comant CI 122 Com antenna installation
instructions?
> <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
> I'm reviewing the installation of my Comant CI 122 VHF Com antenna, to
> see whether I really need a doubler for that antenna or not. I can't
> find any installation instructions, other than the generic instructions
> they have on the web:
>
> http://www.comant.com/pdfs/AntennaInstall.pdf
>
> CI 122 info:
>
> http://www.comant.com/pdfs/[ci%20122]5-05.pdf
>
> Should I have received installation instructions that were specific to
> that antenna model, or are the generic instructions all there is? If
> anyone has specific installation instructions for that model, I'd
> appreciate learning what they have to say about a doubler.
>
> The antenna is mounted on the bottom of my not yet flying RV-8, under the
> front seat, just behind the front spar over at the left side of the
> fuselage. The skin is 0.032" thick at that location. My original
> installation simply had platenuts riveted to the inside of the skin to
> take the four mounting screws, but now I am leaning towards installing an
> 0.032" doubler. I have a hard time believing I really need a doubler for
> structural reasons, but it will be a lot easier to install one now than
> it would be to deal with a skin crack later.
>
> If people have many hours in service of a similar antenna on 0.032" skin
> without a doubler, I would appreciate learning about your experience.
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: multi detent 10k potentiometer? |
At 02:51 PM 6/30/2007 -0700, you wrote:
><CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
>Ok smart guys...get ready for a dumb guy question!
>
>What do you call a regular old 10k pot that has multiple detents on it?
>I'm trying to find a single turn 10k pot that has a click feel, maybe 20
>detents or so, to use with a PWM dimming system for an lcd inverter.
>But I have no idea what to call it! so I can't look for it! I tried
>and tried, but all I find is pots with center detents, or pots with a
>switch at the end, but that's the only detent. I'm very frustrated, and
>feeling very stupid. Can someone smarter than me help me out?
>
>Btw, I do know what it's called when you cross a hippopotamus, an
>elephant and a rhino. Hellifiknow!
>
>Sorry. and thanks.
I've never seen one as a catalog item. I've built
them by putting a little spring cartridge behind
the skirt of a knob and cutting the detent furrows
in the back of the knob. This is going to be kinda
'big'. With a 1/2" diameter pot, you still need about
a 1-1/4" diameter knob to build the mechanism behind
it.
All the other clicky-feel pots I've seen were
fabricated by the manufacturer of the appliance.
Others on the List may be aware of some options.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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Subject: | Soldering to copper foil tape |
Was there an article on a recommended way to do this?
I vaguely remember a discussion on this topic.
I'd rather do it right than again!
Thanks
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: multi detent 10k potentiometer? |
At 14:51 6/30/2007, you wrote:
>What do you call a regular old 10k pot that has multiple detents on it?
>I'm trying to find a single turn 10k pot that has a click feel, maybe 20
>detents or so, to use with a PWM dimming system for an lcd inverter.
>But I have no idea what to call it! so I can't look for it! I tried
>and tried, but all I find is pots with center detents, or pots with a
>switch at the end, but that's the only detent. I'm very frustrated, and
>feeling very stupid. Can someone smarter than me help me out?
It's still just a pot. But linear or log taper?
Pretty common to find them in "hi-fi" and stereo equipment as balance
and tone controls in the linear version. The log version will be
found as volume controls. Alps made a ton of them for various
OEM's. Generally the back plate, opposite the shaft, will have
multiple 'bumps' on it. The detent being on the inside with a small
spring leaf riding directly or applying pressure to a 'ball bearing'.
The whole thing has goo to make it feel good and smooth.
Sources... Humm...
First thing that comes to mind is swap meets, thrift stores and
garage sales. Find an old bone yard stereo with detented pot for $10
or so and hope one's a 10k. I would think you would have some
latitude on value, but check with the dimmer supplier or designer to
make sure a different value is acceptable. Surplus electronic stores
may also be a good haunt. Gateway Electronics I think has an online
store worth browsing. I'll dig in my parts bucket at home for you as well.
Ron Q.
Message 11
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Subject: | Final update on Optima Battery with cut top posts |
Bob, Ya know what...this may be is a small pay back for the enormous benefit
you personally and this forum has been to me.
Regards,
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 11:01 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Final update on Optima Battery with cut top
posts
<nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 07:31 AM 6/30/2007 -0400, you wrote:
><terrence_miles@hotmail.com>
>
>Lesson Learned.
>I had a Yellow top Optima. I cut the top posts to fit my battery
>compartment and shortly after that the battery lost power and would not
>accept a charge.
>
>I got the battery back into operation. It seems the inner plug of the top
>posts connect to the cells. The outer ring of the top posts connect only
to
>the side posts which were my connect points to distribution.
>
>By drilling and tapping a quarter/32 screw into those flush cut inner
plugs,
>I regained access to the cells. The battery is now taking a charge just
>fine. Cutting the top posts also improperly vents the interior, so that
was
>sealed up with some epoxy. It has a new home as drive source to a trolling
>motor, and a pair of Odyssey 925s is going in the airplane.
>Terry
Good data sir. Thanks for sharing. I'll take this opportunity
to reinforce the notion that there is as much value in
sharing ideas that do not work as there is for sharing
the ones that do work. If you can help another builder avoid
repeating an experiment with a predictably poor outcome, the
$time$ you expended "getting behind" will push him ahead by
the same amount of $time$. If more than one builder benefits
from the information, then the service you've provided becomes
still more valuable.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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Subject: | multi detent 10k potentiometer? |
Chris,
Bourns makes them, They are probably special order, this is first
one I found there may be other series as well. You may be able to get a
sample if you only need one. No harm asking. They have multiple detent
configurations, center, 20, 30, end, and none.
I went to Mouser and typed "detent pot" into their part search and
came up with a P/N and a link to the cutsheet.
Good luck.
--
Ralph C. Hoover
RV7A
hooverra at verizon dot net
Message 13
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Subject: | power wires to strobe power supply |
I was about to run a couple #16 wires to my Whelen HDACF strobe power
supply when I noticed that the installation instructions say that
"shielded wire is generally not necessary but has proven effective in
reducing the possibility of radio interference."
Sounds like their lawyers wrote it. The HV wires to the strobes are of
course shielded, but do the +12v and GND wires to the supply have to be
shielded too?
--
Tom S.
RV-6A, electrical system
Message 14
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Subject: | power wires to strobe power supply |
Tom,
I did just as you have suggested and have no problems not using shielded
wires TO the strobe power supply.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
sarg314
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 11:16 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: power wires to strobe power supply
I was about to run a couple #16 wires to my Whelen HDACF strobe power
supply when I noticed that the installation instructions say that
"shielded wire is generally not necessary but has proven effective in
reducing the possibility of radio interference."
Sounds like their lawyers wrote it. The HV wires to the strobes are of
course shielded, but do the +12v and GND wires to the supply have to be
shielded too?
--
Tom S.
RV-6A, electrical system
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