---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 06/30/07: 14 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:34 AM - Final update on Optima Battery with cut top posts (Terry Miles) 2. 07:03 AM - Congratulations (Fergus Kyle) 3. 07:06 AM - Re: Final update on Optima Battery with cut top posts (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 4. 11:42 AM - Comant CI 122 Com antenna installation instructions? (Kevin Horton) 5. 01:21 PM - Re: Comant CI 122 Com antenna installation instructions? (Neal George) 6. 02:53 PM - multi detent 10k potentiometer? (Chris Johnston) 7. 03:02 PM - Re: Comant CI 122 Com antenna installation instructions? (Ralph E. Capen) 8. 03:41 PM - Re: multi detent 10k potentiometer? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 9. 03:53 PM - Soldering to copper foil tape (Ralph E. Capen) 10. 04:43 PM - Re: multi detent 10k potentiometer? (Ron Quillin) 11. 05:07 PM - Re: Final update on Optima Battery with cut top posts (Terry Miles) 12. 05:42 PM - multi detent 10k potentiometer? (Ralph Hoover) 13. 09:18 PM - power wires to strobe power supply (sarg314) 14. 10:02 PM - Re: power wires to strobe power supply (William Gill) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:34:06 AM PST US From: "Terry Miles" Subject: AeroElectric-List: Final update on Optima Battery with cut top posts Lesson Learned. I had a Yellow top Optima. I cut the top posts to fit my battery compartment and shortly after that the battery lost power and would not accept a charge. I got the battery back into operation. It seems the inner plug of the top posts connect to the cells. The outer ring of the top posts connect only to the side posts which were my connect points to distribution. By drilling and tapping a quarter/32 screw into those flush cut inner plugs, I regained access to the cells. The battery is now taking a charge just fine. Cutting the top posts also improperly vents the interior, so that was sealed up with some epoxy. It has a new home as drive source to a trolling motor, and a pair of Odyssey 925s is going in the airplane. Terry ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:03:51 AM PST US From: "Fergus Kyle" Subject: AeroElectric-List: Congratulations Bob, I see you've found what I discovered nearly twenty years ago: "You don't retire FROM a job, you retire TO something better." Your advice and opinions have added so much to my understanding over the years that I cannot think how I might have progressed without them. Cheers, Ferg ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:06:15 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Final update on Optima Battery with cut top posts At 07:31 AM 6/30/2007 -0400, you wrote: > > >Lesson Learned. >I had a Yellow top Optima. I cut the top posts to fit my battery >compartment and shortly after that the battery lost power and would not >accept a charge. > >I got the battery back into operation. It seems the inner plug of the top >posts connect to the cells. The outer ring of the top posts connect only to >the side posts which were my connect points to distribution. > >By drilling and tapping a quarter/32 screw into those flush cut inner plugs, >I regained access to the cells. The battery is now taking a charge just >fine. Cutting the top posts also improperly vents the interior, so that was >sealed up with some epoxy. It has a new home as drive source to a trolling >motor, and a pair of Odyssey 925s is going in the airplane. >Terry Good data sir. Thanks for sharing. I'll take this opportunity to reinforce the notion that there is as much value in sharing ideas that do not work as there is for sharing the ones that do work. If you can help another builder avoid repeating an experiment with a predictably poor outcome, the $time$ you expended "getting behind" will push him ahead by the same amount of $time$. If more than one builder benefits from the information, then the service you've provided becomes still more valuable. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 11:42:09 AM PST US From: Kevin Horton Subject: AeroElectric-List: Comant CI 122 Com antenna installation instructions? I'm reviewing the installation of my Comant CI 122 VHF Com antenna, to see whether I really need a doubler for that antenna or not. I can't find any installation instructions, other than the generic instructions they have on the web: http://www.comant.com/pdfs/AntennaInstall.pdf CI 122 info: http://www.comant.com/pdfs/[ci%20122]5-05.pdf Should I have received installation instructions that were specific to that antenna model, or are the generic instructions all there is? If anyone has specific installation instructions for that model, I'd appreciate learning what they have to say about a doubler. The antenna is mounted on the bottom of my not yet flying RV-8, under the front seat, just behind the front spar over at the left side of the fuselage. The skin is 0.032" thick at that location. My original installation simply had platenuts riveted to the inside of the skin to take the four mounting screws, but now I am leaning towards installing an 0.032" doubler. I have a hard time believing I really need a doubler for structural reasons, but it will be a lot easier to install one now than it would be to deal with a skin crack later. If people have many hours in service of a similar antenna on 0.032" skin without a doubler, I would appreciate learning about your experience. Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 do not archive ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 01:21:27 PM PST US From: "Neal George" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Comant CI 122 Com antenna installation instructions? Kevin - I bought two of those antennas new from Stein. I don't recall finding any instructions in the boxes. I made doublers (0.032 if memory serves) about 3/4" bigger than the antenna base. Mine are mounted in the cabin floor, just aft of the spar box, one in each outboard bay. Neal RV-7 N8ZG Cowling +++++++++++++++++ Kevin Horton Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 1:40 PM I'm reviewing the installation of my Comant CI 122 VHF Com antenna, to see whether I really need a doubler for that antenna or not. I can't find any installation instructions, other than the generic instructions they have on the web: http://www.comant.com/pdfs/AntennaInstall.pdf CI 122 info: http://www.comant.com/pdfs/[ci%20122]5-05.pdf Should I have received installation instructions that were specific to that antenna model, or are the generic instructions all there is? If anyone has specific installation instructions for that model, I'd appreciate learning what they have to say about a doubler. The antenna is mounted on the bottom of my not yet flying RV-8, under the front seat, just behind the front spar over at the left side of the fuselage. The skin is 0.032" thick at that location. My original installation simply had platenuts riveted to the inside of the skin to take the four mounting screws, but now I am leaning towards installing an 0.032" doubler. I have a hard time believing I really need a doubler for structural reasons, but it will be a lot easier to install one now than it would be to deal with a skin crack later. If people have many hours in service of a similar antenna on 0.032" skin without a doubler, I would appreciate learning about your experience. Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 do not archive ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 02:53:23 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: multi detent 10k potentiometer? From: "Chris Johnston" Ok smart guys...get ready for a dumb guy question! What do you call a regular old 10k pot that has multiple detents on it? I'm trying to find a single turn 10k pot that has a click feel, maybe 20 detents or so, to use with a PWM dimming system for an lcd inverter. But I have no idea what to call it! so I can't look for it! I tried and tried, but all I find is pots with center detents, or pots with a switch at the end, but that's the only detent. I'm very frustrated, and feeling very stupid. Can someone smarter than me help me out? Btw, I do know what it's called when you cross a hippopotamus, an elephant and a rhino. Hellifiknow! Sorry. and thanks. cj #40410 www.perfectlygoodairplane.net ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 03:02:02 PM PST US From: "Ralph E. Capen" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Comant CI 122 Com antenna installation instructions? I just finished that exact evolution. Yes, I did use a doubler...yes, I did prime it...yes, I cleaned off the screw through contact surfaces as well as running a drill through the rivet holes to ensure bonding of the doubler plate to the airframe/antenna. There was an article in Sport Aviation a while back in addition to other listers that I referred to as the necessity of the doubler plate Zap me direct for pictures. Ralph Capen ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Horton" Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 2:40 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Comant CI 122 Com antenna installation instructions? > > > I'm reviewing the installation of my Comant CI 122 VHF Com antenna, to > see whether I really need a doubler for that antenna or not. I can't > find any installation instructions, other than the generic instructions > they have on the web: > > http://www.comant.com/pdfs/AntennaInstall.pdf > > CI 122 info: > > http://www.comant.com/pdfs/[ci%20122]5-05.pdf > > Should I have received installation instructions that were specific to > that antenna model, or are the generic instructions all there is? If > anyone has specific installation instructions for that model, I'd > appreciate learning what they have to say about a doubler. > > The antenna is mounted on the bottom of my not yet flying RV-8, under the > front seat, just behind the front spar over at the left side of the > fuselage. The skin is 0.032" thick at that location. My original > installation simply had platenuts riveted to the inside of the skin to > take the four mounting screws, but now I am leaning towards installing an > 0.032" doubler. I have a hard time believing I really need a doubler for > structural reasons, but it will be a lot easier to install one now than > it would be to deal with a skin crack later. > > If people have many hours in service of a similar antenna on 0.032" skin > without a doubler, I would appreciate learning about your experience. > > Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) > Ottawa, Canada > http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 > do not archive > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 03:41:22 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: multi detent 10k potentiometer? At 02:51 PM 6/30/2007 -0700, you wrote: > > >Ok smart guys...get ready for a dumb guy question! > >What do you call a regular old 10k pot that has multiple detents on it? >I'm trying to find a single turn 10k pot that has a click feel, maybe 20 >detents or so, to use with a PWM dimming system for an lcd inverter. >But I have no idea what to call it! so I can't look for it! I tried >and tried, but all I find is pots with center detents, or pots with a >switch at the end, but that's the only detent. I'm very frustrated, and >feeling very stupid. Can someone smarter than me help me out? > >Btw, I do know what it's called when you cross a hippopotamus, an >elephant and a rhino. Hellifiknow! > >Sorry. and thanks. I've never seen one as a catalog item. I've built them by putting a little spring cartridge behind the skirt of a knob and cutting the detent furrows in the back of the knob. This is going to be kinda 'big'. With a 1/2" diameter pot, you still need about a 1-1/4" diameter knob to build the mechanism behind it. All the other clicky-feel pots I've seen were fabricated by the manufacturer of the appliance. Others on the List may be aware of some options. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 03:53:43 PM PST US From: "Ralph E. Capen" Subject: AeroElectric-List: Soldering to copper foil tape Was there an article on a recommended way to do this? I vaguely remember a discussion on this topic. I'd rather do it right than again! Thanks ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 04:43:13 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: multi detent 10k potentiometer? From: Ron Quillin At 14:51 6/30/2007, you wrote: >What do you call a regular old 10k pot that has multiple detents on it? >I'm trying to find a single turn 10k pot that has a click feel, maybe 20 >detents or so, to use with a PWM dimming system for an lcd inverter. >But I have no idea what to call it! so I can't look for it! I tried >and tried, but all I find is pots with center detents, or pots with a >switch at the end, but that's the only detent. I'm very frustrated, and >feeling very stupid. Can someone smarter than me help me out? It's still just a pot. But linear or log taper? Pretty common to find them in "hi-fi" and stereo equipment as balance and tone controls in the linear version. The log version will be found as volume controls. Alps made a ton of them for various OEM's. Generally the back plate, opposite the shaft, will have multiple 'bumps' on it. The detent being on the inside with a small spring leaf riding directly or applying pressure to a 'ball bearing'. The whole thing has goo to make it feel good and smooth. Sources... Humm... First thing that comes to mind is swap meets, thrift stores and garage sales. Find an old bone yard stereo with detented pot for $10 or so and hope one's a 10k. I would think you would have some latitude on value, but check with the dimmer supplier or designer to make sure a different value is acceptable. Surplus electronic stores may also be a good haunt. Gateway Electronics I think has an online store worth browsing. I'll dig in my parts bucket at home for you as well. Ron Q. ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 05:07:43 PM PST US From: "Terry Miles" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Final update on Optima Battery with cut top posts Bob, Ya know what...this may be is a small pay back for the enormous benefit you personally and this forum has been to me. Regards, Terry -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 11:01 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Final update on Optima Battery with cut top posts At 07:31 AM 6/30/2007 -0400, you wrote: > > >Lesson Learned. >I had a Yellow top Optima. I cut the top posts to fit my battery >compartment and shortly after that the battery lost power and would not >accept a charge. > >I got the battery back into operation. It seems the inner plug of the top >posts connect to the cells. The outer ring of the top posts connect only to >the side posts which were my connect points to distribution. > >By drilling and tapping a quarter/32 screw into those flush cut inner plugs, >I regained access to the cells. The battery is now taking a charge just >fine. Cutting the top posts also improperly vents the interior, so that was >sealed up with some epoxy. It has a new home as drive source to a trolling >motor, and a pair of Odyssey 925s is going in the airplane. >Terry Good data sir. Thanks for sharing. I'll take this opportunity to reinforce the notion that there is as much value in sharing ideas that do not work as there is for sharing the ones that do work. If you can help another builder avoid repeating an experiment with a predictably poor outcome, the $time$ you expended "getting behind" will push him ahead by the same amount of $time$. If more than one builder benefits from the information, then the service you've provided becomes still more valuable. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 05:42:14 PM PST US From: Ralph Hoover Subject: AeroElectric-List: multi detent 10k potentiometer? Chris, Bourns makes them, They are probably special order, this is first one I found there may be other series as well. You may be able to get a sample if you only need one. No harm asking. They have multiple detent configurations, center, 20, 30, end, and none. I went to Mouser and typed "detent pot" into their part search and came up with a P/N and a link to the cutsheet. Good luck. -- Ralph C. Hoover RV7A hooverra at verizon dot net ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 09:18:21 PM PST US From: sarg314 Subject: AeroElectric-List: power wires to strobe power supply I was about to run a couple #16 wires to my Whelen HDACF strobe power supply when I noticed that the installation instructions say that "shielded wire is generally not necessary but has proven effective in reducing the possibility of radio interference." Sounds like their lawyers wrote it. The HV wires to the strobes are of course shielded, but do the +12v and GND wires to the supply have to be shielded too? -- Tom S. RV-6A, electrical system ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 10:02:06 PM PST US From: "William Gill" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: power wires to strobe power supply Tom, I did just as you have suggested and have no problems not using shielded wires TO the strobe power supply. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of sarg314 Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 11:16 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: power wires to strobe power supply I was about to run a couple #16 wires to my Whelen HDACF strobe power supply when I noticed that the installation instructions say that "shielded wire is generally not necessary but has proven effective in reducing the possibility of radio interference." Sounds like their lawyers wrote it. The HV wires to the strobes are of course shielded, but do the +12v and GND wires to the supply have to be shielded too? -- Tom S. RV-6A, electrical system ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message aeroelectric-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/aeroelectric-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/aeroelectric-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.