Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:24 AM - Re: Automatic upper cowl flap (Carlos Trigo)
2. 06:12 AM - Automatic upper cowl flap (Ken)
3. 06:23 AM - Re: Automatic upper cowl flap (Ernest Christley)
4. 07:04 AM - Re: Automatic Headlight Hi/Lo Fallover Circuit (Eric M. Jones)
5. 07:17 AM - Re: Automatic upper cowl flap (Robert Taylor)
6. 08:12 AM - Re: Re: Automatic Headlight Hi/Lo Fallover Circuit (Michael T. Ice)
7. 10:12 AM - Re: Automatic upper cowl flap (glen matejcek)
8. 11:30 AM - Re: Automatic Headlight Hi/Lo Fallover Circuit (Eric M. Jones)
9. 11:37 AM - ameri-king ak551 dimmer (Bill and Marsha)
10. 11:45 AM - Re: Re: Automatic upper cowl flap (Carlos Trigo)
11. 12:23 PM - Re: Re: Automatic upper cowl flap ()
12. 01:39 PM - Re: Re: Automatic upper cowl flap (earl_schroeder@juno.com)
13. 02:00 PM - Re: Antenna Ground Plane (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 02:36 PM - Re: power wires to strobe power supply (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 04:38 PM - Re: Automatic upper cowl flap (Bill Schlatterer)
16. 05:10 PM - Re: Automatic upper cowl flap (Bill Schlatterer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Automatic upper cowl flap |
Thanks Charlie
It's really a smart idea, with only one inconvenient. It will not prevent
rain water entrance when the aircraft is parked outside.
I'll put it in my solutions list. If it doesn't work properly, I still need
the electrical automation ...
Carlos
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie England" <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 2:20 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automatic upper cowl flap
> <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
> Carlos Trigo wrote:
>> <trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
>>
>> Since I'm using a Subaru engine, I need to have some kind of ventilation
>> exit on the upper cowling, to dissipate heat after engine shutdown. Most
>> builders just make a row of 3/4" holes, and others put side louvers that
>> look like shark guills.
>> I intend to make the upper row of holes, but don't want to let them
>> always open, due to the possibility of rain penetration and also because
>> they can have a bad influence in the cooling air flow inside the cowling.
>> Therefore I thought of a small (some 15" x 1 1/2") moving flap, which
>> covers the holes, and is normally closed in flight.
>>
>> Now the electrical challenge, that I put here to the smart guys of this
>> list:
>> The ideal solution to manouver this flap would be to automatically open
>> it when the engine is turned off. How can it be done?
>>
>> Carlos
>> RV-9A
>>
>> P.S. - I know this is not a KIS solution...
>>
> I didn't see what airframe the Sube is powering, but if the cowl is
> typical you can just add holes in a flat area & add a hinged door under
> them. If you limit the door's travel to less than 90 degrees, air pressure
> during flight will push it closed. When you shut down, it will drop open.
> It's been done by others to achieve what you're after. (KIS?)
>
> Charlie
Message 2
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| Subject: | Automatic upper cowl flap |
Hello Carlos
I use a reverse scoop (facing rearwards) just over an inch high and
maybe 6" wide about 6" ahead of the windshield. What is interesting is
that on the ground air exits the scoop however since that is a fairly
high pressure area, air enters the scoop in flight. Even more air would
enter if one had a radiator in the cowl ahead of the scoop as the
pressure inside the cowl would be lower than my installation.
Ken
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Automatic upper cowl flap |
Carlos Trigo wrote:
> <trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
>
> Thanks Charlie
>
> It's really a smart idea, with only one inconvenient. It will not
> prevent rain water entrance when the aircraft is parked outside.
> I'll put it in my solutions list. If it doesn't work properly, I still
> need the electrical automation ...
>
> Carlos
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie England"
> <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>> I didn't see what airframe the Sube is powering, but if the cowl is
>> typical you can just add holes in a flat area & add a hinged door
>> under them. If you limit the door's travel to less than 90 degrees,
>> air pressure during flight will push it closed. When you shut down,
>> it will drop open. It's been done by others to achieve what you're
>> after. (KIS?)
>>
>> Charlie
Get you a temperature bellows off of a VW engine. Sorry I don't know
the proper name. It expands when it gets hot, which it shouldn't do
while you're flying due to the airflow. But it will during post-flight
taxi if you rig it so that the expansion opens the hinged door that
Charlie suggests. Once the engine cools, it will contract to close the
door again.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Automatic Headlight Hi/Lo Fallover Circuit |
> I'm wondering if there is a device I can install on my landing lights that will
sense when the high beam filament has failed and automagically switch the current
to the low beam filament.
>
> I'm using the single source/single switch wig-wag system, as per http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Lighting/WigWag.pdf pg 3.0 and have only one wire to each light.
>
> My landing lights are a Bob Olds design and utilize dual filament automotive
H4 halogen bulbs, one per side. I would like to have something (preferably home
brewed - read low $$$) at each headlamp that will fall over to the low beam
so I can double bulb life, reduce maintenance and save a little money. Thanks,
Tony Kirk RV-6A N57TK
Tony, It's not a hard circuit to design nor is it expensive. I have a "back-of-the-envelope"
design for one that I will share if you like, but it needs a bit
of work and testing. It will even light a panel LED when the hi beam has failed.
But In my opinion, you really don't want to do this. By adding one simple wire
to the lamp you can have access to both filaments. This is much simpler than building
an automatic switch and more versatile too.
Additionally, before you could make one of these, you will be able to buy LED
landing lights that will work forever.
"Everything you've learned in school as "obvious" becomes
less and less obvious as you begin to study the universe.
For example, there are no solids in the universe. There's
not even a suggestion of a solid. There are no absolute con-
tinuums. There are no surfaces. There are no straight lines."
- R. Buckminster Fuller
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121752#121752
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Automatic upper cowl flap |
You might try using the bi-metal coil from a thermometer.
Bob Taylor
Wadsworth, Ohio
N657RT, Res.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ernest Christley" <echristley@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 9:22 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automatic upper cowl flap
> <echristley@nc.rr.com>
>
> Carlos Trigo wrote:
>> <trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
>>
>> Thanks Charlie
>>
>> It's really a smart idea, with only one inconvenient. It will not prevent
>> rain water entrance when the aircraft is parked outside.
>> I'll put it in my solutions list. If it doesn't work properly, I still
>> need the electrical automation ...
>>
>> Carlos
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie England"
>> <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>>> I didn't see what airframe the Sube is powering, but if the cowl is
>>> typical you can just add holes in a flat area & add a hinged door under
>>> them. If you limit the door's travel to less than 90 degrees, air
>>> pressure during flight will push it closed. When you shut down, it will
>>> drop open. It's been done by others to achieve what you're after. (KIS?)
>>>
>>> Charlie
>
> Get you a temperature bellows off of a VW engine. Sorry I don't know the
> proper name. It expands when it gets hot, which it shouldn't do while
> you're flying due to the airflow. But it will during post-flight taxi if
> you rig it so that the expansion opens the hinged door that Charlie
> suggests. Once the engine cools, it will contract to close the door
> again.
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Automatic Headlight Hi/Lo Fallover Circuit |
Eric,
Sorry don't mean to hijack this thread but..
Where can I get those LED landing lights? I think that they would be great.
Can you wig wag the LED's.
Thanks,
Mike Ice
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 5:59 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Automatic Headlight Hi/Lo Fallover Circuit
> <emjones@charter.net>
>
>
>> I'm wondering if there is a device I can install on my landing lights
>> that will sense when the high beam filament has failed and automagically
>> switch the current to the low beam filament.
>>
>> I'm using the single source/single switch wig-wag system, as per
>> http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Lighting/WigWag.pdf pg 3.0 and have only
>> one wire to each light.
>>
>> My landing lights are a Bob Olds design and utilize dual filament
>> automotive H4 halogen bulbs, one per side. I would like to have something
>> (preferably home brewed - read low $$$) at each headlamp that will fall
>> over to the low beam so I can double bulb life, reduce maintenance and
>> save a little money. Thanks, Tony Kirk RV-6A N57TK
>
>
> Tony, It's not a hard circuit to design nor is it expensive. I have a
> "back-of-the-envelope" design for one that I will share if you like, but
> it needs a bit of work and testing. It will even light a panel LED when
> the hi beam has failed.
>
> But In my opinion, you really don't want to do this. By adding one simple
> wire to the lamp you can have access to both filaments. This is much
> simpler than building an automatic switch and more versatile too.
>
> Additionally, before you could make one of these, you will be able to buy
> LED landing lights that will work forever.
>
> "Everything you've learned in school as "obvious" becomes
> less and less obvious as you begin to study the universe.
> For example, there are no solids in the universe. There's
> not even a suggestion of a solid. There are no absolute con-
> tinuums. There are no surfaces. There are no straight lines."
>
> - R. Buckminster Fuller
>
> --------
> Eric M. Jones
> www.PerihelionDesign.com
> 113 Brentwood Drive
> Southbridge, MA 01550
> (508) 764-2072
> emjones@charter.net
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121752#121752
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | RE: Automatic upper cowl flap |
Hi Carlos-
>The ideal solution to maneuver this flap would be to automatically open it
>when the engine is turned off, which in this engine's case is to turn Off
an
>electrical switch.
>How can it be done?
I once saw a Glasair III that had a clever solution to his vapor lock
problems. A series of oval holes were cut into the cowling / plenum top.
They were perhaps 1" long and 1/2" wide, lined up in a lateral row perhaps
1" by 1'. Underneath the top skin was a hinged flap that was pressed
against the skin by a bimetal spring. Once the engine was shut down and
the cowling temps rose to a high enough level, the bimetal spring opened
the vent. Once temps dropped, the vent would close itself. It was pretty
neat as it was autonomous and didn't require power.
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Automatic Headlight Hi/Lo Fallover Circuit |
> Sorry don't mean to hijack this thread but..
> Where can I get those LED landing lights? I think that they would be great. Can
you wig wag the LED's. Thanks, Mike Ice
Mike et al.
LEDs wig-wag the best of all lamps.
I get an amazing email newsleter-- http://tinyurl.com/yuwjny
There are 35, 60 and 100W LEDs! Some in MR16 packages, some made for automobiles.
But there are several problems:
1) These are components aimed at manufacturers (tens-of-thousands of different
LED types!) and are often not "Plug and Play". But the really big LEDs do mount
up nicely.
2) You might have to buy quantity...but you can sell the rest on Ebay.
3) LEDs get better every week.
4) The really high power LEDs need higher voltages.
For reference: A couple years ago, one of my customers landed his RV aircraft at
night using only his (Perihelion Design) wigtip LED position lights. LEDs have
gotten a thousand times brighter since then.
Inventor: A person who makes an ingenious arrangement of wheels, levers and springs,
and believes it civilization.
--Ambrose Bierce
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121821#121821
Message 9
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| Subject: | ameri-king ak551 dimmer |
I have a ak551 dimmer module that I have misplaced the wiring diagram
for. I have been searching the web for a file but cant locate one. Can
anyone give me a link to a wiring diagram? Bill S.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Automatic upper cowl flap |
Thanks Glenn
That is really a very clever solution.
And where do you think I can get that "miraculous" bimetal spring?
Are those "calibrated" for the temperature we want it to actuate?
Carlos
----- Original Message -----
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 6:09 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RE: Automatic upper cowl flap
> <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>
> Hi Carlos-
>
>>The ideal solution to maneuver this flap would be to automatically open it
>>when the engine is turned off, which in this engine's case is to turn Off
> an
>>electrical switch.
>>How can it be done?
>
> I once saw a Glasair III that had a clever solution to his vapor lock
> problems. A series of oval holes were cut into the cowling / plenum top.
> They were perhaps 1" long and 1/2" wide, lined up in a lateral row perhaps
> 1" by 1'. Underneath the top skin was a hinged flap that was pressed
> against the skin by a bimetal spring. Once the engine was shut down and
> the cowling temps rose to a high enough level, the bimetal spring opened
> the vent. Once temps dropped, the vent would close itself. It was pretty
> neat as it was autonomous and didn't require power.
>
> glen matejcek
> aerobubba@earthlink.net
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | RE: Automatic upper cowl flap |
This concept has been used in green houses for years. Yes, I suppose
ceiling windows are kind of like cowl flaps. Those motors are huge and
could not be used, but the concept is the same. Perhaps a green house
dealer would be a good source for the sensor/switch.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of glen
matejcek
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 1:09 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RE: Automatic upper cowl flap
--> <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hi Carlos-
>The ideal solution to maneuver this flap would be to automatically open
>it when the engine is turned off, which in this engine's case is to
>turn Off
an
>electrical switch.
>How can it be done?
I once saw a Glasair III that had a clever solution to his vapor lock
problems. A series of oval holes were cut into the cowling / plenum
top.
They were perhaps 1" long and 1/2" wide, lined up in a lateral row
perhaps 1" by 1'. Underneath the top skin was a hinged flap that was
pressed against the skin by a bimetal spring. Once the engine was shut
down and the cowling temps rose to a high enough level, the bimetal
spring opened the vent. Once temps dropped, the vent would close
itself. It was pretty neat as it was autonomous and didn't require
power.
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Automatic upper cowl flap |
Try any junk Volkswagen engine [the air cooled version]They all have a
bellows in the lower right side easily removed and adapted to your
purpose. Tony Bingelis wrote articles about this approach in EAA
magazines and in his own publications. Earl
---------
Carlos wrote:
where do you think I can get that "miraculous" bimetal spring?
Are those "calibrated" for the temperature we want it to actuate?
Carlos
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna Ground Plane |
At 08:33 PM 7/1/2007 -0400, you wrote:
><recapen@earthlink.net>
>
>I just finished the double and installation of my CI 122.
>
>Per responses from Bob Kuckolls and a few others....I cleaned the primer
>away from where the screws contact each other (providing continuity from
>the antenna base through to the airframe) and ran a drill through all of
>the rivet holes prior to riveting. I'm gonna pitch the cork gasket and
>use some non-acidic RTV as a sealant.
>
>I've had numerous requests for the photos of my installation - zap me
>direct....
Ralph, If you'd care to share your photos on my server,
I'd be pleased to post them.
Bob. . .
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: power wires to strobe power supply |
At 09:16 PM 6/30/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>
>I was about to run a couple #16 wires to my Whelen HDACF strobe power
>supply when I noticed that the installation instructions say that
>"shielded wire is generally not necessary but has proven effective in
>reducing the possibility of radio interference."
>
>Sounds like their lawyers wrote it. The HV wires to the strobes are of
>course shielded, but do the +12v and GND wires to the supply have to be
>shielded too?
Shielding has a very limited effectiveness against
only the rarest of noise propagation modes. If the
device being powered up has passed DO-160 conducted
emissions, then there's no value in having the power
wires to that device be shielded. In fact, ANY device
that's shown to benefit from shielding of power leads
either as a potential antagonist or victim needs to
go back to the drawing boards . . . and probably
wouldn't pass DO-160 Conducted Emissions anyhow.
Don't worry about shielding these power leads.
Bob . . .
Message 15
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| Subject: | Automatic upper cowl flap |
>> "Get you a temperature bellows off of a VW engine. Sorry I don't know
the proper name. It expands when it gets hot, which it shouldn't do while
you're flying due to the airflow. But it will during post-flight taxi if
you rig it so that the expansion opens the hinged door that Charlie
suggests. Once the engine cools, it will contract to close the door again.
"
For a full description of the suggestion above, see pages 140, 141, 142, and
143 of Tony Bingelis book,...Firewall Forward. There are complete line
drawings, temp and bellows extension lengths, linkage design, etc. Very
informative and very simple,... almost elegant :-)
Bill S
7a Ark - not yet flying :-(
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernest
Christley
Message 16
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| Subject: | Automatic upper cowl flap |
OK, here is a teaser. This is one of the Bengilis pages (P141) showing one
of the cowl flap actuator bellows.
Bill S
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Schlatterer
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 6:36 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Automatic upper cowl flap
--> <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
>> "Get you a temperature bellows off of a VW engine. Sorry I don't
>> know
the proper name. It expands when it gets hot, which it shouldn't do while
you're flying due to the airflow. But it will during post-flight taxi if
you rig it so that the expansion opens the hinged door that Charlie
suggests. Once the engine cools, it will contract to close the door again.
"
For a full description of the suggestion above, see pages 140, 141, 142, and
143 of Tony Bingelis book,...Firewall Forward. There are complete line
drawings, temp and bellows extension lengths, linkage design, etc. Very
informative and very simple,... almost elegant :-)
Bill S
7a Ark - not yet flying :-(
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernest
Christley
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