Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:43 AM - Starter Solenoid fuse blows, ideas? ()
2. 07:48 AM - Source for LED's (CardinalNSB@aol.com)
3. 10:09 AM - Re: Source for LED's (Bruce Gray)
4. 11:04 AM - FW-Eng ground (Fergus Kyle)
5. 07:00 PM - Re: Starter Solenoid fuse blows, ideas? (Terry Miles)
Message 1
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Starter Solenoid fuse blows, ideas? |
7/9/2007
Hello Terry, You wrote: "C-1's job is to energize C-2. The fuse that blows
feels the draw from both C-1 and C-2."
I am a bit confused by these two sentences.
I thought that coil C-1's job, when the starter switch is closed, is to move
the slug that then closes the main contacts of that contactor. Then the
electricity flowing through that contactor's main contacts is the
electricity that will flow on through coil C-2 and cause its slug to move
and both engage the starter pinion gear and close its main contacts to
provide electricity to turn the starter motor.
See Figure 6 here http://aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf
If my thinking is correct then the fuse that blows would not feel the
additional electrical draw from coil C-2 because that draw is coming through
the main contacts of the contactor served by coil C-1 and not through coil
C-1 itself.
Comment?
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
Time: 10:01:14 AM PST US
From: "Terry Miles" <terrence_miles@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Starter Solenoid fuse blows, ideas?
Mike,
I am only a Saturday afternoon mechanic. Take the following as "off the top
of my head" ideas.
Unless I missed it, you didn't mention about the coil on the starter motor.
Without looking at your system, it is likely your B&C "starter solenoid"
actually uses about 1 amp max to energize another coil that is bolted to the
starter motor. I'll call that second coil C-2 so we are both sure which
component we are talking about. C-2's job like any coil is to close the big
juice contactors so current at 150 amps maybe can go from the batt to the
starter motor. C2 is also responsible to throw the pinion gear into the fly
wheel and keep it that way until you let off on the starter button. C-1's
job is to energize C-2. The fuse that blows feels the draw from both C-1 and
C-2.
Your comment about having to move the prop or it blows a 2nd fuse makes me
want to investigate C-2 the coil on the skytec. Skytec will sell you
another coil for about $5 if they don't just out and out give you one from
stock. http://www.skytecair.com/ They are real good about answering tech
questions there too. If you call have model and serial # ready.
The C-2 casing is held on the starter motor with a couple of screws and the
guts can get swapped out just as easy. Look around at your ring gear and
the starter gears and see if you see any scoring. The pinion doesn't thrust
into the gears, or has some other mechanical problem the mech load creates
an amp draw that can eat a fuse--and be a literal roulette wheel like
problem that only happens some of the time.
Hope this leads you to a couple of ideas more. Good luck
Terry Miles
Message 2
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Source for LED's |
I want to get a real basic annunciator field approved, using LED's.
The ones from Radio Shack work fine and fit.
My ap mechanic is ok with the setup, except for no documentation on the
LED's.
What would anyone suggest as far as sourcing and documentation on the LED's?
Are there any reasonable sources for a Mil-spec LED, or even a SAE LED bulb?
Thanks, Skip
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 3
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Source for LED's |
I would think that as long as the device was supplemental and did not
replace any required equipment, that field approval would be pretty
automatic, concerned only with current draw and fusing. Thank God for
experimental aviation, that we can leave all this garbage behind us.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
CardinalNSB@aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 10:43 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Source for LED's
I want to get a real basic annunciator field approved, using LED's.
The ones from Radio Shack work fine and fit.
My ap mechanic is ok with the setup, except for no documentation on the
LED's.
What would anyone suggest as far as sourcing and documentation on the
LED's?
Are there any reasonable sources for a Mil-spec LED, or even a SAE LED
bulb?
Thanks, Skip
_____
See what's free at AOL.com
<http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503> .
Message 4
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
'lectric Bob:
I'm having trouble setting out the basics. I am using B&C's braid
strip (11-1/2" long) to join Firewall Ground (big Bolt on Froest of Tabs) to
engine block mounting bolt on Rotax 914 - a rare possible spot in the
distance.
The $10 voltmeter says "7.3 Ohms" give or take - and I wonder if
that is in the ball park in view of the braid length - otherwise it's FW to
eng mount which may be worse......
Best of regards
Ferg
Europa A064 914 mono
Message 5
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Starter Solenoid fuse blows, ideas? |
Hi Mike,
The article is certainly a help because it causes us to refine between us
what you are asking and what I am suggesting.
Look at figure 6 in Bob's article. The contactor shown there is the C-2
solenoid. Look at it's coil. The (+) power it takes to energize the C-2
coil comes from C-1 main contactor. Starter motor solenoids are usually (+)
triggered and have their own ground.
Now, is your C-1 main contactor input line fused? Does the C-1 coil require
a (-) or a (+) to energize? If it's a (+), is that source fused? Is there
a jumper from the (+) of the C-1 coil to the input contactor? How is C-2
wired? Remember besides being a solenoid is also has to runs the pinion.
I am sorry to be adding any confusion here. I should have said this: If
your C-1 output line is fuse protected and goes only to provide the (+) for
the C-2 coil, then both draw from that fuse. If your pinion-to-flywheel
mechanics are at issue somehow with bad tooth or a rough meshing somewhere
then maybe that is your sometimes high current draw that's blows a fuse.
When you never mentioned C-2 in your first post I thought I toss it out
there for you to consider.
What you wrote (below) would be correct if the (+) end of the C-2's coil and
the C-2 main contactor were jumper wired together. Likely they are not.
Also you wrote: "...both engage the starter pinion gear and close its main
contacts to provide electricity to turn the starter motor." It provides a
path for the electricity to turn the starter motor. There's a difference.
The starter motor demand itself is unfused and it routes from the battery
thru the C-2 contactors and then to the starter motor.
Your starter on/off switch is likely fused at 10 amps this to carry C-1 and
C-2 holding coils and the pinion trusting current demands from C-2. The
heavy wire from battery to starter is not fused. Without seeing your system
it would be possible to wire C-2 into that unfused circuit and jumper the
main contactor to the coil, but I do not think that is not commonly done.
I am sure you know this but I want to add that C-1 is the not the battery
master switch. We could call that on C-zero! We are only talking about the
starter circuitry.
I hope this helps.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
bakerocb@cox.net
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 9:36 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Starter Solenoid fuse blows, ideas?
7/9/2007
Hello Terry, You wrote: "C-1's job is to energize C-2. The fuse that blows
feels the draw from both C-1 and C-2."
I am a bit confused by these two sentences.
I thought that coil C-1's job, when the starter switch is closed, is to move
the slug that then closes the main contacts of that contactor. Then the
electricity flowing through that contactor's main contacts is the
electricity that will flow on through coil C-2 and cause its slug to move
and both engage the starter pinion gear and close its main contacts to
provide electricity to turn the starter motor.
See Figure 6 here http://aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf
If my thinking is correct then the fuse that blows would not feel the
additional electrical draw from coil C-2 because that draw is coming through
the main contacts of the contactor served by coil C-1 and not through coil
C-1 itself.
Comment?
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
Time: 10:01:14 AM PST US
From: "Terry Miles" <terrence_miles@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Starter Solenoid fuse blows, ideas?
Mike,
I am only a Saturday afternoon mechanic. Take the following as "off the top
of my head" ideas.
Unless I missed it, you didn't mention about the coil on the starter motor.
Without looking at your system, it is likely your B&C "starter solenoid"
actually uses about 1 amp max to energize another coil that is bolted to the
starter motor. I'll call that second coil C-2 so we are both sure which
component we are talking about. C-2's job like any coil is to close the big
juice contactors so current at 150 amps maybe can go from the batt to the
starter motor. C2 is also responsible to throw the pinion gear into the fly
wheel and keep it that way until you let off on the starter button. C-1's
job is to energize C-2. The fuse that blows feels the draw from both C-1 and
C-2.
Your comment about having to move the prop or it blows a 2nd fuse makes me
want to investigate C-2 the coil on the skytec. Skytec will sell you
another coil for about $5 if they don't just out and out give you one from
stock. http://www.skytecair.com/ They are real good about answering tech
questions there too. If you call have model and serial # ready.
The C-2 casing is held on the starter motor with a couple of screws and the
guts can get swapped out just as easy. Look around at your ring gear and
the starter gears and see if you see any scoring. The pinion doesn't thrust
into the gears, or has some other mechanical problem the mech load creates
an amp draw that can eat a fuse--and be a literal roulette wheel like
problem that only happens some of the time.
Hope this leads you to a couple of ideas more. Good luck
Terry Miles
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|