Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:38 AM - DG Short (Charles Brame)
2. 08:04 AM - Avionics master switch/relay ()
3. 08:22 AM - Re: Avionics master switch/relay (Michael T. Ice)
4. 11:06 AM - Re: Water in Master switch (Bill and Marsha)
5. 07:08 PM - Re: Water in Master switch (Mike Adams)
6. 08:05 PM - Re: Water in Master switch (JAMES BOWEN)
7. 08:50 PM - EGT sensor installation location (ruruny@aol.com)
Message 1
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My "el cheapo" DG quit working about ten minutes into my first
flight. The 1 Amp fuse blown that protected the DG and its wiring was
blown. The DG was still dead after replacing the fuse and the fuse
didn't blow again. I pulled the DG and sent it back to its
manufacturer. They reported that a circuit board was fried from a
high voltage power surge. I say that is BS. No other fuses were blown
and there are no other indications of a power surge. My bird is all
electric, externally regulated, with over voltage protection. The OV
CB has never opened.
It is my opinion that the el cheapo circuit board shorted out on its
own, causing the fuse to blow.
Any comments?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
Message 2
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Subject: | Avionics master switch/relay |
I am wanting to use an avionics master switch or relay with my
electrical system. My question is: Do I need to put all of my avionics
on a separate bus then control the power to that bus by the avionics
master? Also,what if I want just a portion of my avionics on my
endurance bus? I have looked at all of the Z figures and cannot find an
example.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Ed
RV-7
About to hang the engine
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Avionics master switch/relay |
Ed,
Go to the archive search engine and type in avionics master switch. Lots of info.
It may change your mind.
If not do it your way and put in an avionics master switch and a separate bus for
avionics.
If you decide to go with out an avionics master than just put what you "need" to
successfully land after the "dark and stormy night" episode on the endurance
bus and put the rest on your main bus.
For an example take a look at the Z-11 schematic. Notice the way the main and endurance
buses are laid out.
Mike Ice
Hanging the motor
----- Original Message -----
From: jedwood@earthlink.net
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 6:57 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Avionics master switch/relay
I am wanting to use an avionics master switch or relay with my electrical system.
My question is: Do I need to put all of my avionics on a separate bus then
control the power to that bus by the avionics master? Also,what if I want just
a portion of my avionics on my endurance bus? I have looked at all of the
Z figures and cannot find an example.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Ed
RV-7
About to hang the engine
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Water in Master switch |
Change master sw. Regulator side of switch is creating a voltage drop,
and telling regulator to increase output voltage. 99.9% sure it will cure
your problem of over voltage Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Adams" <asav8tor@hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 1:37 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Water in Master switch
> <asav8tor@hotmail.com>
>
> Vans old 35 amp Honda alt
>
> External Regulator
>
> Split "Cessna" type master switch
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> During rainy weather canopy was opened and water got on the master switch.
> Tried to mop it up but looked like some went down in the switch.
>
> Next day started the aircraft and no amps charging after engine start.
> Normal bus voltage with engine running is 14.2v now showing 12.2 ( no alt
> power )
>
> Shut down and blew compressed air into master switch.
>
> Restarted amps charging and normal bus voltage 14.2 noted.
>
> Flew a series of orientation flights. (kids summer camp) After the 6th
> flight noticed a hum/beat sound in the radio/intercom. Bus voltage was
> 15.8v
>
> Shut off alt on split master, voltage went down to 12.6v then turned alt
> switch back on voltage returned to normal 14.2 hum/beat went away.
>
> After engine start the higher voltage was noted several times but could be
> fixed by turning the alt switch off then back on. It would then stay at
> the normal 14.2v for the rest of the flight.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Should I:
>
> (1) Replace the Master switch and recheck.
>
> (2) Replace the Master switch and Voltage Regulator
>
> (3) Replace the alt with a new plane-power 60amp int reg with overvoltage
> protection
>
> I don't want smoke in the cockpit. If the Voltage regulator was damaged I
> don't want to start the engine again on the old unit.
>
> Thanks in advance guys,
>
> Mike
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=hmtextlinkjuly07
>
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Water in Master switch |
New switch installed. All is good. Rock steady again at 14.2v
Took the old switch apart. Looked like a whole lot of junk in there. AL
dust and junk from when the acft was built? It was moist and almost pastey.
Thanks,
Mike
_________________________________________________________________
http://newlivehotmail.com
Message 6
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Subject: | Water in Master switch |
Hey Mike, If this is about your RV-4 I think you should just give up and
consider just giving it to me.
;>)
Jim Bowen -
Hope ya get it
figured out.
>From: "Mike Adams" <asav8tor@hotmail.com>
>To: AeroElectric-List@matronics.com, asav8tor@hotmail.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Water in Master switch
>Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 23:37:18 -0700
>
><asav8tor@hotmail.com>
>
>Vans old 35 amp Honda alt
>
>External Regulator
>
>Split "Cessna" type master switch
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>During rainy weather canopy was opened and water got on the master switch.
>Tried to mop it up but looked like some went down in the switch.
>
>Next day started the aircraft and no amps charging after engine start.
>Normal bus voltage with engine running is 14.2v now showing 12.2 ( no alt
>power )
>
>Shut down and blew compressed air into master switch.
>
>Restarted amps charging and normal bus voltage 14.2 noted.
>
>Flew a series of orientation flights. (kids summer camp) After the 6th
>flight noticed a hum/beat sound in the radio/intercom. Bus voltage was
>15.8v
>
>Shut off alt on split master, voltage went down to 12.6v then turned alt
>switch back on voltage returned to normal 14.2 hum/beat went away.
>
>After engine start the higher voltage was noted several times but could be
>fixed by turning the alt switch off then back on. It would then stay at
>the normal 14.2v for the rest of the flight.
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Should I:
>
>(1) Replace the Master switch and recheck.
>
>(2) Replace the Master switch and Voltage Regulator
>
>(3) Replace the alt with a new plane-power 60amp int reg with overvoltage
>protection
>
>I don't want smoke in the cockpit. If the Voltage regulator was damaged I
>don't want to start the engine again on the old unit.
>
>Thanks in advance guys,
>
>Mike
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=hmtextlinkjuly07
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
http://newlivehotmail.com
Message 7
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Subject: | EGT sensor installation location |
Looking at the 2 attached pics of the left and right side of my engine, what would
be the best place to install the EGT sensors.
Just thought I'd get some input from anyone who might know if there is a best way
to do it.?There are 4 of them for my GRT EIS.
Thanks
Brian
701Builder.com
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