Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:23 AM - Re: Very bad RFI (n81jg@aol.com)
2. 09:54 AM - Re: Very bad RFI (Eric M. Jones)
3. 10:02 AM - Receiving spam trough Matronics (Rob Turk)
4. 10:22 AM - Re: Re: Very bad RFI (Jim Baker)
5. 10:24 AM - Re: Receiving spam trough Matronics (Matt Dralle)
6. 11:07 AM - Re: Receiving spam trough Matronics (Bob McCallum)
7. 12:19 PM - Re: Re: DIY - In the ear headphones (Ernest Christley)
8. 03:06 PM - Help with adding an Icom A200 to my existing RT-328 (Matthew Schumacher)
9. 03:10 PM - Re: Very bad RFI (Dave Dugas)
10. 04:24 PM - Re: Very bad RFI (Robert Feldtman)
11. 05:23 PM - Re: Very bad RFI (n81jg@aol.com)
12. 07:10 PM - Re: Help with adding an Icom A200 to my existing RT-328 (Bill McMullen)
13. 07:31 PM - Question about B&C Regulators (Alan K. Adamson)
14. 09:15 PM - Re: Question about B&C Regulators (Deems Davis)
15. 10:53 PM - Thermocouple wire connections (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Very bad RFI |
I had a similar problem with RFI in my VariEze when I installed the LSE CD ignition
system. I tried the foil covering of the plug leads since it seemed to be
high voltage ignition noise in time with plug firing, but it had no effect on
lessening the noise in the radio. I had a new set of plug leads made up and the
problem was solved. Must have had a minute gap in the lead connections causing
a spark gap and RFI. Your local auto parts dealer can make up leads of any
length.
John Greaves
VariEze N81JG
Redding, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Dugas <davedq2@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 4:26 pm
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Very bad RFI
Hello,
?
I joined this list?with the hope that I could try to solve my problem in my Q2
with a Revmaster engine.? At 450 hours on the engine I converted to auto plugs.?
I changed the heads and replaced the aviation plug connection with auto plug
connections supplied with the conversion.? The RFI is so bad that my transponder
reply light looks like a timing light.? My Tru Trak auto pilot won't stay
booted up, and the noise is heard on my com.? Things I've tried are...Lonestar
mag filters and eliminator power filter.? Checking all grounds and relocating
several to a common grounding lug.? Wrapping the plug connections with tin foil
to try to shield the interference.? Checking all of the antenna connections.?
Disconnecting various radios and?avionics,trying to isolate a particular source.?
Nothing worked.
?
I used my handheld radio in the cockpit and didn't pick up any noise.? I also called
Revmaster and they is the ones who suggested trying the tin foil shielding.
?
The engine is carburated and uses a Bendix 3000 series dual mag.? Plugs are NGK
resistor plugs, gapped at .016".? Hopefully someone has a suggestion, or should
I consider going back to the aviation setup.? Is there a different harness
that would work?? The unfortunate thing is that any work that is done on the magnito
requires that the engine is removed enough to access the mag which is recessed
into the firewall.? Thank you.? Dave D.
________________________________________________________________________
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Very bad RFI |
People only do this once....Mine was a car when I was 23. Who needs those resistor/plugs
and wires anyway?
Or so I thought.
Change back to resistor wires and/or plugs and the problem will vanish.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=126163#126163
Message 3
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Subject: | Receiving spam trough Matronics |
A while ago I signed up to Matronics, as the Yahoo groups were starting to
get lots of spam. I used a unique e-mail address to sign up. Now I am
starting to receive spam through that address. Is there any way to trace
back who 'leaked' matronics email addresses?
Rob
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Very bad RFI |
X-mailer: Pegasus Mail for Windows (4.41)
>
> People only do this once....Mine was a car when I was 23. Who needs those resistor/plugs
and wires anyway?
>
> Or so I thought.
>
> Change back to resistor wires and/or plugs and the problem will vanish.
>
> --------
> Eric M. Jones
> www.PerihelionDesign.com
> 113 Brentwood Drive
> Southbridge, MA 01550
> (508) 764-2072
> emjones@charter.net
Of course, Eric has this one right, too.........
____________________________________________
RFI or "Radio Frequency Interference":
Many people believe that spark plugs fire instantly. This is partly
true because they fire in milliseconds, although if one looks at an
oscilloscope pattern you will see much more than a single
instantaneous firing event. Many things also occur that you cannot
see even with the oscilloscope. Part of what you cannot see, but can
in many cases hear, is the noise that is picked up in the speakers of
your car stereo. This is called RFI, or Radio Frequency Interference.
Spark Plug Firing
Voltages:{PRIVATE "TYPE=PICT;ALT=Spark plug secondary wavefom example"}
When the breaker points or solid state ignition unit (switching
device) interrupts current flow in the primary ignition circuit and
induces current flow into the secondary windings of the coil, there
is an instantaneous voltage spike. (as seen in the illustration at
right in position A to B). This represents the voltage required to
overcome the spark plug and distributor rotor gaps. Once the spark
gaps have been bridged, the secondary voltage required to sustain the
spark across the gap is much less and drops (as seen in position B to
C above). The spark continues to arc across the gap at more or less
constant voltage until the arc is extinguished (at position D above).
This is due to coil energy drop in that it can not sustain the spark
any longer. During this arc duration (Spark Duration), the plug
actually fires several times. This is caused by high frequency
oscillations in the primary and secondary windings of the coil, which
continues to induce voltage spikes. They continue and slowly diminish
(positions D to E above) even after they are no longer strong enough
to sustain spark. All of this takes place in roughly one thousandth
of a second.
With our race designed ignition units, they concentrate their efforts
on sustaining spark duration as well as limiting the voltage drop
after the gaps have been bridged. Most aftermarket ignitions
concentrate on giving us 20 of spark duration (crank degrees) as
well as much higher spark energy output. A high performance coil
helps this out, but the Capacitive discharge and digital ignition
units assist in storing and delivering this power through the coil
more efficiently, faster and give the ability to achieve higher RPMs
more safely and efficiently in fuel mixture burning. The coil is only
the pawn of the ignition trigger or control unit. The coil is the
real workhorse and takes most of the abuse ... make sure you use a
good coil. (Read below about aftermarket ignition amplifiers and
controls)
The Cause of RFI:{PRIVATE "TYPE=PICT;ALT=RFI example"}
If we were to slow down the oscilloscope to perhaps 0.00000025
seconds and greatly expand the pattern (as pictured at right), we
would see that what appears to be consistent from position C to D in
the the first illustration above is actually a series of extremely
high bursts of energy. These energy bursts are discharged at the same
frequency band as radio and TV frequencies. It is these bursts that
make your car radio snap - crackle - and pop ... as well as just
about anything electronic including telephones, aircraft control
towers and heart pace makers by causing static and interference.
Sources of RFI:
Automotive ignition systems are not the only things that spew RFI
into the atmosphere. Lawn mowers, snowmobiles, ATV's, tractors, power
lines, traffic control devices, etc. all do it. One publication
refers it to "electronic air pollution". As many of us know, we live
in a sea of constant electromagnetic waves.
Any time you have a flow of electric current you will have a magnetic
field. Coils, relays, switches, solenoids, generators, servomotors
all affect communication equipment, electronic circuits and
computers. The higher the voltages, the more critical this becomes.
Anytime you have the spark jump a gap or a contact, you have a
miniature radio transmitter.
RFI Standards:
Back in the 1930's, engineers recognized that RFI could be a
nuisance. As the years, testing and technology advancements went by,
it turned into an even greater problem. Especially with the advent of
high-tech communications systems, computers and electronic engine
control devices. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) decided to
set up standards for measuring as well as the control of RFI. These
are called "EMI Standards" or the more technical name for radio
static of Electromagnetic Interference (EMI).
The current standard for EMI was adopted in 1961 and is known as
J551. It limits RFI at frequencies between 20-1,000 MHz. All spark
plug manufacturers must adhere to it. The most common method used to
suppress RFI is to install a resistor in series with the spark plug's
center electrode.
Other ways that control RFI include:
* The metal fenders, grille and hood of your car. These provide a
shielding affect which absorbs much of the RFI emitted from your
ignition components. Plastic and composite body panels are basically
transparent to RFI and provide little to no shielding.
* The use of capacitors, silicone grease at connections, proper
grounding of all circuits and routing wires to reduce electromagnetic
interference are all helpful in reducing RFI.
* The use of carbon impregnated secondary wiring (plug wires) and
resistor spark plugs have the most impact when reducing and
controlling RFI. In our race cars with our high output ignitions, it
is best to use a specifically designed plug wire for our
applications. These are usually the what is called "Spiral Wound"
style plug wires. The construction of these wires starts with a
Ferro0-Magnetic impregnated inner core, helical wrapped copper alloy
conductor, a high dielectric insulator then a heavy fiberglass braid.
Wrapping this is a 8mm to 10mm silicone jacket. Also, secure
connections of the plug wire's terminal ends are mandatory along with
secure fitting boots.
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
Elmore City, OK
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Receiving spam trough Matronics |
At 09:56 AM 7/29/2007 Sunday, you wrote:
>
>A while ago I signed up to Matronics, as the Yahoo groups were starting to get
lots of spam. I used a unique e-mail address to sign up. Now I am starting to
receive spam through that address. Is there any way to trace back who 'leaked'
matronics email addresses?
>
>Rob
I believe this issue is really someone(s) that is subscribed to the given List
have been infected with a spam reflector "virus". The virus will glean email
addresses from the victim's inbox and when it receives a spam message from the
mothership, it proceeds to resend it to everyone it the local mailboxes.
Unfortunately, spam is a fact of life on the Internet. To give you a data point,
Matronics has a Barracuda spam appliance that all incoming email is filtered
through before entering the network. The matronics.com domain receives on the
average over 70,000 spam emails each day! And there are perhaps 400-600 legitimate
emails. That would be a ratio of about 99.3% spam email coming in.
There is really no way to hide from spam anymore. If you send emails from an email
account, you're going to get spam.
At least you'll note that you've never gotten a spam message from any of the Matronics
Email Lists directly. Fortunately, I still have the ability to regulate
that pretty well.
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Receiving spam trough Matronics |
Just as a further data point, I have an e-mail address which I have never
used for any purpose nor have I revealed it to anyone. ( I wanted to reserve
that particular address for future use) I receive SPAM on that address as
well. When I complained to my service provider, assuming they must have
leaked my address, they told me there are programmes used by spammers which
generate random addresses hoping to get a hit. Those that don't bounce are
presumed legitimate addresses and get put on the spamming lists to target.
Bob McC
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 1:19 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Receiving spam trough Matronics
<dralle@matronics.com>
>
> At 09:56 AM 7/29/2007 Sunday, you wrote:
> >
> >A while ago I signed up to Matronics, as the Yahoo groups were starting
to get lots of spam. I used a unique e-mail address to sign up. Now I am
starting to receive spam through that address. Is there any way to trace
back who 'leaked' matronics email addresses?
> >
> >Rob
>
>
> I believe this issue is really someone(s) that is subscribed to the given
List have been infected with a spam reflector "virus". The virus will glean
email addresses from the victim's inbox and when it receives a spam message
from the mothership, it proceeds to resend it to everyone it the local
mailboxes.
>
> Unfortunately, spam is a fact of life on the Internet. To give you a data
point, Matronics has a Barracuda spam appliance that all incoming email is
filtered through before entering the network. The matronics.com domain
receives on the average over 70,000 spam emails each day! And there are
perhaps 400-600 legitimate emails. That would be a ratio of about 99.3%
spam email coming in.
>
> There is really no way to hide from spam anymore. If you send emails from
an email account, you're going to get spam.
>
> At least you'll note that you've never gotten a spam message from any of
the Matronics Email Lists directly. Fortunately, I still have the ability
to regulate that pretty well.
>
> Matt Dralle
> Matronics Email List Admin
>
>
> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: DIY - In the ear headphones |
I got the message. What do you think sent me off in a tizzy. "COOL!! I
gotta make me wonna those!", as soon as I saw it.
Edward G. Savage wrote:
> <egs@egsavage.com>
>
> Hey Ernest. Looks like you're well along with your project!
>
> I'm not sure what happened, but I see a post I made sometime back to the
> EAA1114 list never made it out to the door. Here is a copy of it below..
>
> --Ed
>
> At a recent builder meeting, I had mentioned this project in the Cozy
> community to Ernest. But, this can be used by everyone, not just
> builders...
>
> Here are a couple of people that give instructions on how to make your
> own
> Clarity Aloft headset clone for around $100. Maybe even approaching
> under $50
> now if you pay attention and find deals. And when I say a clone, I
> mean right
> down to the same Comply ear tips that are used with the Clarity Aloft.
>
> Check it out...
>
> Nick Ugolini (the original project)
> http://www.canardzone.com/members/nickugolini/CuplessHeadet/cupless_headset.htm
>
>
> Drew Chaplin (latest version by Drew)
> http://www.cozy1200.com/geeklog/article.php?story 070427102533266
>
> --Ed
>
--
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, with chocolate in one hand and wine in
the other, loudly proclaiming 'WOO HOO What a Ride!'"
--Unknown
Message 8
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Subject: | Help with adding an Icom A200 to my existing RT-328 |
List,
I just bought an ICOM A200 while here in Oshkosh so now I'm looking at
the instructions and have a couple of questions on how to wire it up.
I want to add it to the existing RT-328 so that I still have my VOR but
I don't have an audio panel so I want to us a toggle switch. I talked
to a couple of vendors on how to hook it up but didn't seem to find
anyone that seemed to be completely certain on how to do this so I
wanted to run it past you folks to make sure I got it right.
Here goes:
Wire the headset output of both radios together then manage which one
you want to listen to using the volume on each radio.
Wire the PTT and MIC to a double throw double poll switch so that the
mic jack is only connected to one radio at a time. Use a common ground.
Wire both radios so that they have their own antennas.
Wire the interlock on both radios so that they disable each other when
one of the two transmits. I see on the ICOM wiring diagram that pins 9
and N are for PTT and Interlock and on the RT-328 diagram pins L and V
are the ANT interlock and mike key. So if I'm understanding this
correctly I would connect ping 9 on the Icom to pin L on the RT328 and
pin N on the Icom to pin V on the RT328.
Does this look right to you guys? If not I would love to know how to do
this or even get pointed in the right direction if this is information I
can find in a good book.
Thanks,
schu
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Very bad RFI |
John,
I still have a magnito system, so harness replacement with resistor wires would
be a possible cure? My problem is that every time that I want to access the
mags, I have to pull the engine. Do you use auto plugs? Thanks for your reply....Dave
D
n81jg@aol.com wrote:
I had a similar problem with RFI in my VariEze when I installed the LSE CD ignition
system. I tried the foil covering of the plug leads since it seemed to
be high voltage ignition noise in time with plug firing, but it had no effect
on lessening the noise in the radio. I had a new set of plug leads made up and
the problem was solved. Must have had a minute gap in the lead connections causing
a spark gap and RFI. Your local auto parts dealer can make up leads of any
length.
John Greaves
VariEze N81JG
Redding, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Dugas <davedq2@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 4:26 pm
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Very bad RFI
Hello,
I joined this list with the hope that I could try to solve my problem in my Q2
with a Revmaster engine. At 450 hours on the engine I converted to auto plugs.
I changed the heads and replaced the aviation plug connection with auto plug
connections supplied with the conversion. The RFI is so bad that my transponder
reply light looks like a timing light. My Tru Trak auto pilot won't stay
booted up, and the noise is heard on my com. Things I've tried are...Lonestar
mag filters and eliminator power filter. Checking all grounds and relocating
several to a common grounding lug. Wrapping the plug connections with tin
foil to try to shield the interference. Checking all of the antenna connections.
Disconnecting various radios and avionics,trying to isolate a particular
source. Nothing worked.
I used my handheld radio in the cockpit and didn't pick up any noise. I also
called Revmaster and they is the ones who suggested trying the tin foil shielding.
The engine is carburated and uses a Bendix 3000 series dual mag. Plugs are NGK
resistor plugs, gapped at .016". Hopefully someone has a suggestion, or should
I consider going back to the aviation setup. Is there a different harness
that would work? The unfortunate thing is that any work that is done on the
magnito requires that the engine is removed enough to access the mag which is
recessed into the firewall. Thank you. Dave D.
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Very bad RFI |
You put me on a search and I ran across magnecor wires. magnecor.com is the
website. Their 7 mm wire looks great! I think I will try that - I think I
saw somewhere where it has 1500 ohms per foot.
bobf
On 7/28/07, Ken <klehman@albedo.net> wrote:
>
>
> I run dual DIS (distributorless) ignition with high voltage coil joiners
> on my subaru with a total of 12 high voltage ignition wires. I have no
> igniton noise or interference but I do run highly recommended premium
> 8.5mm Taylor spiral wound racing wires. I run 40 thou spark plug gap
> and I think my ignition voltage is quite a bit higher than most
> magnetos. The Taylor website used to explain a fair bit about ignition
> wires but as I recall mine are considerably more than 150 ohms per foot.
> Ken
>
> Robert Feldtman wrote:
>
> > I'll be interested to hear the replies on this. I am thinking about
> > going to auto plugs for the same RFI reason on my LOM engine
> > (Czechoslovakian) -- I'm planning on getting racing wire with 150 ohms
> > per foot and shielding it with braid (you can get it from Aircraft
> > spruce) and grounding only the mag end, and using heat shrink to hold
> > the other end on the plug without a ground at each end (which defeats
> > the shield).. Keep us advised as to what you do.
> >
> > bobf
> >
> > On 7/28/07, Dave Dugas <davedq2@yahoo.com <mailto:davedq2@yahoo.com>>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > I joined this list with the hope that I could try to solve my
> > problem in my Q2 with a Revmaster engine. At 450 hours on the
> > engine I converted to auto plugs. I changed the heads and
> > replaced the aviation plug connection with auto plug connections
> > supplied with the conversion. The RFI is so bad that my
> > transponder reply light looks like a timing light. My Tru Trak
> > auto pilot won't stay booted up, and the noise is heard on my
> > com. Things I've tried are...Lonestar mag filters and eliminator
> > power filter. Checking all grounds and relocating several to a
> > common grounding lug. Wrapping the plug connections with tin foil
> > to try to shield the interference. Checking all of the antenna
> > connections. Disconnecting various radios and avionics,trying to
> > isolate a particular source. Nothing worked.
> >
> > I used my handheld radio in the cockpit and didn't pick up any
> > noise. I also called Revmaster and they is the ones who suggested
> > trying the tin foil shielding.
> >
> > The engine is carburated and uses a Bendix 3000 series dual mag.
> > Plugs are NGK resistor plugs, gapped at .016". Hopefully someone
> > has a suggestion, or should I consider going back to the aviation
> > setup. Is there a different harness that would work? The
> > unfortunate thing is that any work that is done on the magnito
> > requires that the engine is removed enough to access the mag which
> > is recessed into the firewall. Thank you. Dave D.
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Very bad RFI |
Hi Dave,
Yes, I use auto plugs on the top run by the LSE CD ignition. I forgot to mention
that the high tension leads from my coils to plugs are the spiral wound?auto
leads and work fine after I had new ones with secure connections made up. I am
unfamiliar with the grounding you have with the auto plug leads. My problem
was RFI in my headset and in a handheld radio that was isolate from the aircraft
system. The latter test showed that I was receiving the RFI through the air.
Your problem seems to be getting to your radios through your electrical system
wiring, possibly your ignition switchs near your antenna wires, radio wiring
or intercom wiring.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Dugas <davedq2@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 5:07 pm
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Very bad RFI
John,
I still have a magnito system, so harness replacement with resistor wires would
be a possible cure?? My problem is that every time that I want to access the
mags, I have to pull the engine.? Do you use auto plugs?? Thanks for your reply....Dave
D
n81jg@aol.com wrote:
I had a similar problem with RFI in my VariEze when I installed the LSE CD ignition
system. I tried the foil covering of the plug leads since it seemed to be
high voltage ignition noise in time with plug firing, but it had no effect on
lessening the noise in the radio. I had a new set of plug leads made up and the
problem was solved. Must have had a minute gap in the lead connections causing
a spark gap and RFI. Your local auto parts dealer can make up leads of any
length.
John Greaves
VariEze N81JG
Redding, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Dugas <davedq2@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 4:26 pm
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Very bad RFI
Hello,
?
I joined this list?with the hope that I could try to solve my problem in my Q2
with a Revmaster engine.? At 450 hours on the engine I converted to auto plugs.?
I changed the heads and replaced the aviation plug connection with auto plug
connections supplied with the conversion.? The RFI is so bad that my transponder
reply light looks like a timing light.? My Tru Trak auto pilot won't stay
booted up, and the noise is heard on my com.? Things I've tried are...Lonestar
mag filters and eliminator power filter.? Checking all grounds and relocating
several to a common grounding lug.? Wrapping the plug connections with tin foil
to try to shield the interference.? Checking all of the antenna connections.?
Disconnecting various radios and?avionics,trying to isolate a particular source.?
Nothing worked.
?
I used my handheld radio in the cockpit and didn't pick up any noise.? I also called
Revmaster and they is the ones who suggested trying the tin foil shielding.
?
The engine is carburated and uses a Bendix 3000 series dual mag.? Plugs are NGK
resistor plugs, gapped at .016".? Hopefully someone has a suggestion, or should
I consider going back to the aviation setup.? Is there a different harness
that would work?? The unfortunate thing is that any work that is done on the magnito
requires that the engine is removed enough to access the mag which is recessed
into the firewall.? Thank you.? Dave D.
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
________________________________________________________________________
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Help with adding an Icom A200 to my existing RT-328 |
Why not just use a 3PDT (three pole) switch and put the headphones on there as
well. If the ICOM is your primary radio, you'll note that it also has Aux In inputs.
By wiring the other radio to one of these (optionally with a switch), you
can monitor both radios at once.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=126272#126272
Message 13
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Subject: | Question about B&C Regulators |
So, I have 2 LR-3C-28's at the moment to be used with a stock continental
100A 28V alternator and an SD-20 backup alternator..... BUT, a friend came
by and told me that B&C recommends that you use the LS-1A instead of the
LR-3C with the SD-20.
Anyone know why, or if it really matters? I plan to call B&C in the next
couple of days to get their side of the story. I did notice that the LS-1A
doesn't have a huge heat sink like the 28v version of the LR-3C. But I have
no idea what else is different under the hood?
Alan
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Subject: | Re: Question about B&C Regulators |
Alan, I believe that the issue is How the SD20 is being used, I'm
building to a Z14 and as I understand it, if you are planning on having
both alternators continuously online at the same time you use the
regulators you have. If you plan on only using the SD20 as a back-up
then the other regulator is the choice.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Alan K. Adamson wrote:
>
> So, I have 2 LR-3C-28's at the moment to be used with a stock continental
> 100A 28V alternator and an SD-20 backup alternator..... BUT, a friend came
> by and told me that B&C recommends that you use the LS-1A instead of the
> LR-3C with the SD-20.
>
> Anyone know why, or if it really matters? I plan to call B&C in the next
> couple of days to get their side of the story. I did notice that the LS-1A
> doesn't have a huge heat sink like the 28v version of the LR-3C. But I have
> no idea what else is different under the hood?
>
> Alan
>
>
>
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Subject: | Thermocouple wire connections |
I've finally installed all my VM-1000 engine monitor harness and have only
to connect the it from the CPU to the pigtails on the EGT/CHT thermocouple
probes. Vision supplied the probes with about 2 feet of wire and faston
connections terminating them. I have to install fastons on the CPU harness
that connects to the probes and was going to use the fastons that Vision
supplied but they do not have the second crimp sleeve that provides
insulation strain relief. I have a bunch of the strain relief type fastons
but not sure if I should use them because it may mess up the readings due to
possible metallic connection mismatches between the thermocouple wire.
The fastons Vision supplied look to be coated with solder but I don't really
know if the underlying material is copper or something else (scratching the
surface doesn't yield a copper color underneath). The letters "T&B" are
stamped on these terminals. From looking at Bob's book it doesn't appear
that this is the way that these thermocouple wires should be spliced but I
assume that most Vision Micro buyers use what Vision supplies to assemble
their systems. I don't have a problem with this method but would prefer the
strain relief terminals if they will work. Otherwise I'll go ahead and
splice them with the supplied terminals.
Anyone else with VM-1000 have any thoughts? Can I use the strain relief
terminals or do I need to use the Vision terminals? The strain relief
terminals were purchased at a boat supply store so I suspect they are solder
coated copper, may not work for this application (the letters "I2" and "MX"
are stamped on these terminals). Also, the Vision fastons on the probe
pigtails are not encased in plastic but are installed with some heat shrink
around the crimp end. Can't tell if they are soldered but the install
manual doesn't say anything about soldering at the harness ends, just
crimping the terminals. Would I have to solder these for any reason? Any
words of wisdom Bob? Have you returned from OSH yet? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Will it ever end?
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