---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 07/29/07: 15 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 09:23 AM - Re: Very bad RFI (n81jg@aol.com) 2. 09:54 AM - Re: Very bad RFI (Eric M. Jones) 3. 10:02 AM - Receiving spam trough Matronics (Rob Turk) 4. 10:22 AM - Re: Re: Very bad RFI (Jim Baker) 5. 10:24 AM - Re: Receiving spam trough Matronics (Matt Dralle) 6. 11:07 AM - Re: Receiving spam trough Matronics (Bob McCallum) 7. 12:19 PM - Re: Re: DIY - In the ear headphones (Ernest Christley) 8. 03:06 PM - Help with adding an Icom A200 to my existing RT-328 (Matthew Schumacher) 9. 03:10 PM - Re: Very bad RFI (Dave Dugas) 10. 04:24 PM - Re: Very bad RFI (Robert Feldtman) 11. 05:23 PM - Re: Very bad RFI (n81jg@aol.com) 12. 07:10 PM - Re: Help with adding an Icom A200 to my existing RT-328 (Bill McMullen) 13. 07:31 PM - Question about B&C Regulators (Alan K. Adamson) 14. 09:15 PM - Re: Question about B&C Regulators (Deems Davis) 15. 10:53 PM - Thermocouple wire connections (DEAN PSIROPOULOS) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 09:23:08 AM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Very bad RFI From: n81jg@aol.com I had a similar problem with RFI in my VariEze when I installed the LSE CD ignition system. I tried the foil covering of the plug leads since it seemed to be high voltage ignition noise in time with plug firing, but it had no effect on lessening the noise in the radio. I had a new set of plug leads made up and the problem was solved. Must have had a minute gap in the lead connections causing a spark gap and RFI. Your local auto parts dealer can make up leads of any length. John Greaves VariEze N81JG Redding, CA -----Original Message----- From: Dave Dugas Sent: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 4:26 pm Subject: AeroElectric-List: Very bad RFI Hello, ? I joined this list?with the hope that I could try to solve my problem in my Q2 with a Revmaster engine.? At 450 hours on the engine I converted to auto plugs.? I changed the heads and replaced the aviation plug connection with auto plug connections supplied with the conversion.? The RFI is so bad that my transponder reply light looks like a timing light.? My Tru Trak auto pilot won't stay booted up, and the noise is heard on my com.? Things I've tried are...Lonestar mag filters and eliminator power filter.? Checking all grounds and relocating several to a common grounding lug.? Wrapping the plug connections with tin foil to try to shield the interference.? Checking all of the antenna connections.? Disconnecting various radios and?avionics,trying to isolate a particular source.? Nothing worked. ? I used my handheld radio in the cockpit and didn't pick up any noise.? I also called Revmaster and they is the ones who suggested trying the tin foil shielding. ? The engine is carburated and uses a Bendix 3000 series dual mag.? Plugs are NGK resistor plugs, gapped at .016".? Hopefully someone has a suggestion, or should I consider going back to the aviation setup.? Is there a different harness that would work?? The unfortunate thing is that any work that is done on the magnito requires that the engine is removed enough to access the mag which is recessed into the firewall.? Thank you.? Dave D. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 09:54:50 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Very bad RFI From: "Eric M. Jones" People only do this once....Mine was a car when I was 23. Who needs those resistor/plugs and wires anyway? Or so I thought. Change back to resistor wires and/or plugs and the problem will vanish. -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones@charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=126163#126163 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 10:02:21 AM PST US From: "Rob Turk" Subject: AeroElectric-List: Receiving spam trough Matronics A while ago I signed up to Matronics, as the Yahoo groups were starting to get lots of spam. I used a unique e-mail address to sign up. Now I am starting to receive spam through that address. Is there any way to trace back who 'leaked' matronics email addresses? Rob ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 10:22:41 AM PST US From: "Jim Baker" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Very bad RFI X-mailer: Pegasus Mail for Windows (4.41) > > People only do this once....Mine was a car when I was 23. Who needs those resistor/plugs and wires anyway? > > Or so I thought. > > Change back to resistor wires and/or plugs and the problem will vanish. > > -------- > Eric M. Jones > www.PerihelionDesign.com > 113 Brentwood Drive > Southbridge, MA 01550 > (508) 764-2072 > emjones@charter.net Of course, Eric has this one right, too......... ____________________________________________ RFI or "Radio Frequency Interference": Many people believe that spark plugs fire instantly. This is partly true because they fire in milliseconds, although if one looks at an oscilloscope pattern you will see much more than a single instantaneous firing event. Many things also occur that you cannot see even with the oscilloscope. Part of what you cannot see, but can in many cases hear, is the noise that is picked up in the speakers of your car stereo. This is called RFI, or Radio Frequency Interference. Spark Plug Firing Voltages:{PRIVATE "TYPE=PICT;ALT=Spark plug secondary wavefom example"} When the breaker points or solid state ignition unit (switching device) interrupts current flow in the primary ignition circuit and induces current flow into the secondary windings of the coil, there is an instantaneous voltage spike. (as seen in the illustration at right in position A to B). This represents the voltage required to overcome the spark plug and distributor rotor gaps. Once the spark gaps have been bridged, the secondary voltage required to sustain the spark across the gap is much less and drops (as seen in position B to C above). The spark continues to arc across the gap at more or less constant voltage until the arc is extinguished (at position D above). This is due to coil energy drop in that it can not sustain the spark any longer. During this arc duration (Spark Duration), the plug actually fires several times. This is caused by high frequency oscillations in the primary and secondary windings of the coil, which continues to induce voltage spikes. They continue and slowly diminish (positions D to E above) even after they are no longer strong enough to sustain spark. All of this takes place in roughly one thousandth of a second. With our race designed ignition units, they concentrate their efforts on sustaining spark duration as well as limiting the voltage drop after the gaps have been bridged. Most aftermarket ignitions concentrate on giving us 20 of spark duration (crank degrees) as well as much higher spark energy output. A high performance coil helps this out, but the Capacitive discharge and digital ignition units assist in storing and delivering this power through the coil more efficiently, faster and give the ability to achieve higher RPMs more safely and efficiently in fuel mixture burning. The coil is only the pawn of the ignition trigger or control unit. The coil is the real workhorse and takes most of the abuse ... make sure you use a good coil. (Read below about aftermarket ignition amplifiers and controls) The Cause of RFI:{PRIVATE "TYPE=PICT;ALT=RFI example"} If we were to slow down the oscilloscope to perhaps 0.00000025 seconds and greatly expand the pattern (as pictured at right), we would see that what appears to be consistent from position C to D in the the first illustration above is actually a series of extremely high bursts of energy. These energy bursts are discharged at the same frequency band as radio and TV frequencies. It is these bursts that make your car radio snap - crackle - and pop ... as well as just about anything electronic including telephones, aircraft control towers and heart pace makers by causing static and interference. Sources of RFI: Automotive ignition systems are not the only things that spew RFI into the atmosphere. Lawn mowers, snowmobiles, ATV's, tractors, power lines, traffic control devices, etc. all do it. One publication refers it to "electronic air pollution". As many of us know, we live in a sea of constant electromagnetic waves. Any time you have a flow of electric current you will have a magnetic field. Coils, relays, switches, solenoids, generators, servomotors all affect communication equipment, electronic circuits and computers. The higher the voltages, the more critical this becomes. Anytime you have the spark jump a gap or a contact, you have a miniature radio transmitter. RFI Standards: Back in the 1930's, engineers recognized that RFI could be a nuisance. As the years, testing and technology advancements went by, it turned into an even greater problem. Especially with the advent of high-tech communications systems, computers and electronic engine control devices. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) decided to set up standards for measuring as well as the control of RFI. These are called "EMI Standards" or the more technical name for radio static of Electromagnetic Interference (EMI). The current standard for EMI was adopted in 1961 and is known as J551. It limits RFI at frequencies between 20-1,000 MHz. All spark plug manufacturers must adhere to it. The most common method used to suppress RFI is to install a resistor in series with the spark plug's center electrode. Other ways that control RFI include: * The metal fenders, grille and hood of your car. These provide a shielding affect which absorbs much of the RFI emitted from your ignition components. Plastic and composite body panels are basically transparent to RFI and provide little to no shielding. * The use of capacitors, silicone grease at connections, proper grounding of all circuits and routing wires to reduce electromagnetic interference are all helpful in reducing RFI. * The use of carbon impregnated secondary wiring (plug wires) and resistor spark plugs have the most impact when reducing and controlling RFI. In our race cars with our high output ignitions, it is best to use a specifically designed plug wire for our applications. These are usually the what is called "Spiral Wound" style plug wires. The construction of these wires starts with a Ferro0-Magnetic impregnated inner core, helical wrapped copper alloy conductor, a high dielectric insulator then a heavy fiberglass braid. Wrapping this is a 8mm to 10mm silicone jacket. Also, secure connections of the plug wire's terminal ends are mandatory along with secure fitting boots. Jim Baker 580.788.2779 Elmore City, OK ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 10:24:18 AM PST US From: Matt Dralle Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Receiving spam trough Matronics At 09:56 AM 7/29/2007 Sunday, you wrote: > >A while ago I signed up to Matronics, as the Yahoo groups were starting to get lots of spam. I used a unique e-mail address to sign up. Now I am starting to receive spam through that address. Is there any way to trace back who 'leaked' matronics email addresses? > >Rob I believe this issue is really someone(s) that is subscribed to the given List have been infected with a spam reflector "virus". The virus will glean email addresses from the victim's inbox and when it receives a spam message from the mothership, it proceeds to resend it to everyone it the local mailboxes. Unfortunately, spam is a fact of life on the Internet. To give you a data point, Matronics has a Barracuda spam appliance that all incoming email is filtered through before entering the network. The matronics.com domain receives on the average over 70,000 spam emails each day! And there are perhaps 400-600 legitimate emails. That would be a ratio of about 99.3% spam email coming in. There is really no way to hide from spam anymore. If you send emails from an email account, you're going to get spam. At least you'll note that you've never gotten a spam message from any of the Matronics Email Lists directly. Fortunately, I still have the ability to regulate that pretty well. Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 11:07:10 AM PST US From: "Bob McCallum" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Receiving spam trough Matronics Just as a further data point, I have an e-mail address which I have never used for any purpose nor have I revealed it to anyone. ( I wanted to reserve that particular address for future use) I receive SPAM on that address as well. When I complained to my service provider, assuming they must have leaked my address, they told me there are programmes used by spammers which generate random addresses hoping to get a hit. Those that don't bounce are presumed legitimate addresses and get put on the spamming lists to target. Bob McC Do Not Archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 1:19 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Receiving spam trough Matronics > > At 09:56 AM 7/29/2007 Sunday, you wrote: > > > >A while ago I signed up to Matronics, as the Yahoo groups were starting to get lots of spam. I used a unique e-mail address to sign up. Now I am starting to receive spam through that address. Is there any way to trace back who 'leaked' matronics email addresses? > > > >Rob > > > I believe this issue is really someone(s) that is subscribed to the given List have been infected with a spam reflector "virus". The virus will glean email addresses from the victim's inbox and when it receives a spam message from the mothership, it proceeds to resend it to everyone it the local mailboxes. > > Unfortunately, spam is a fact of life on the Internet. To give you a data point, Matronics has a Barracuda spam appliance that all incoming email is filtered through before entering the network. The matronics.com domain receives on the average over 70,000 spam emails each day! And there are perhaps 400-600 legitimate emails. That would be a ratio of about 99.3% spam email coming in. > > There is really no way to hide from spam anymore. If you send emails from an email account, you're going to get spam. > > At least you'll note that you've never gotten a spam message from any of the Matronics Email Lists directly. Fortunately, I still have the ability to regulate that pretty well. > > Matt Dralle > Matronics Email List Admin > > > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 12:19:42 PM PST US From: Ernest Christley Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: DIY - In the ear headphones I got the message. What do you think sent me off in a tizzy. "COOL!! I gotta make me wonna those!", as soon as I saw it. Edward G. Savage wrote: > > > Hey Ernest. Looks like you're well along with your project! > > I'm not sure what happened, but I see a post I made sometime back to the > EAA1114 list never made it out to the door. Here is a copy of it below.. > > --Ed > > At a recent builder meeting, I had mentioned this project in the Cozy > community to Ernest. But, this can be used by everyone, not just > builders... > > Here are a couple of people that give instructions on how to make your > own > Clarity Aloft headset clone for around $100. Maybe even approaching > under $50 > now if you pay attention and find deals. And when I say a clone, I > mean right > down to the same Comply ear tips that are used with the Clarity Aloft. > > Check it out... > > Nick Ugolini (the original project) > http://www.canardzone.com/members/nickugolini/CuplessHeadet/cupless_headset.htm > > > Drew Chaplin (latest version by Drew) > http://www.cozy1200.com/geeklog/article.php?story 070427102533266 > > --Ed > -- "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, with chocolate in one hand and wine in the other, loudly proclaiming 'WOO HOO What a Ride!'" --Unknown ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 03:06:22 PM PST US From: Matthew Schumacher Subject: AeroElectric-List: Help with adding an Icom A200 to my existing RT-328 List, I just bought an ICOM A200 while here in Oshkosh so now I'm looking at the instructions and have a couple of questions on how to wire it up. I want to add it to the existing RT-328 so that I still have my VOR but I don't have an audio panel so I want to us a toggle switch. I talked to a couple of vendors on how to hook it up but didn't seem to find anyone that seemed to be completely certain on how to do this so I wanted to run it past you folks to make sure I got it right. Here goes: Wire the headset output of both radios together then manage which one you want to listen to using the volume on each radio. Wire the PTT and MIC to a double throw double poll switch so that the mic jack is only connected to one radio at a time. Use a common ground. Wire both radios so that they have their own antennas. Wire the interlock on both radios so that they disable each other when one of the two transmits. I see on the ICOM wiring diagram that pins 9 and N are for PTT and Interlock and on the RT-328 diagram pins L and V are the ANT interlock and mike key. So if I'm understanding this correctly I would connect ping 9 on the Icom to pin L on the RT328 and pin N on the Icom to pin V on the RT328. Does this look right to you guys? If not I would love to know how to do this or even get pointed in the right direction if this is information I can find in a good book. Thanks, schu ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 03:10:15 PM PST US From: Dave Dugas Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Very bad RFI John, I still have a magnito system, so harness replacement with resistor wires would be a possible cure? My problem is that every time that I want to access the mags, I have to pull the engine. Do you use auto plugs? Thanks for your reply....Dave D n81jg@aol.com wrote: I had a similar problem with RFI in my VariEze when I installed the LSE CD ignition system. I tried the foil covering of the plug leads since it seemed to be high voltage ignition noise in time with plug firing, but it had no effect on lessening the noise in the radio. I had a new set of plug leads made up and the problem was solved. Must have had a minute gap in the lead connections causing a spark gap and RFI. Your local auto parts dealer can make up leads of any length. John Greaves VariEze N81JG Redding, CA -----Original Message----- From: Dave Dugas Sent: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 4:26 pm Subject: AeroElectric-List: Very bad RFI Hello, I joined this list with the hope that I could try to solve my problem in my Q2 with a Revmaster engine. At 450 hours on the engine I converted to auto plugs. I changed the heads and replaced the aviation plug connection with auto plug connections supplied with the conversion. The RFI is so bad that my transponder reply light looks like a timing light. My Tru Trak auto pilot won't stay booted up, and the noise is heard on my com. Things I've tried are...Lonestar mag filters and eliminator power filter. Checking all grounds and relocating several to a common grounding lug. Wrapping the plug connections with tin foil to try to shield the interference. Checking all of the antenna connections. Disconnecting various radios and avionics,trying to isolate a particular source. Nothing worked. I used my handheld radio in the cockpit and didn't pick up any noise. I also called Revmaster and they is the ones who suggested trying the tin foil shielding. The engine is carburated and uses a Bendix 3000 series dual mag. Plugs are NGK resistor plugs, gapped at .016". Hopefully someone has a suggestion, or should I consider going back to the aviation setup. Is there a different harness that would work? The unfortunate thing is that any work that is done on the magnito requires that the engine is removed enough to access the mag which is recessed into the firewall. Thank you. Dave D. --------------------------------- --------------------------------- Luggage? GPS? Comic books? Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search. ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 04:24:04 PM PST US From: "Robert Feldtman" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Very bad RFI You put me on a search and I ran across magnecor wires. magnecor.com is the website. Their 7 mm wire looks great! I think I will try that - I think I saw somewhere where it has 1500 ohms per foot. bobf On 7/28/07, Ken wrote: > > > I run dual DIS (distributorless) ignition with high voltage coil joiners > on my subaru with a total of 12 high voltage ignition wires. I have no > igniton noise or interference but I do run highly recommended premium > 8.5mm Taylor spiral wound racing wires. I run 40 thou spark plug gap > and I think my ignition voltage is quite a bit higher than most > magnetos. The Taylor website used to explain a fair bit about ignition > wires but as I recall mine are considerably more than 150 ohms per foot. > Ken > > Robert Feldtman wrote: > > > I'll be interested to hear the replies on this. I am thinking about > > going to auto plugs for the same RFI reason on my LOM engine > > (Czechoslovakian) -- I'm planning on getting racing wire with 150 ohms > > per foot and shielding it with braid (you can get it from Aircraft > > spruce) and grounding only the mag end, and using heat shrink to hold > > the other end on the plug without a ground at each end (which defeats > > the shield).. Keep us advised as to what you do. > > > > bobf > > > > On 7/28/07, Dave Dugas > > wrote: > > > > Hello, > > > > I joined this list with the hope that I could try to solve my > > problem in my Q2 with a Revmaster engine. At 450 hours on the > > engine I converted to auto plugs. I changed the heads and > > replaced the aviation plug connection with auto plug connections > > supplied with the conversion. The RFI is so bad that my > > transponder reply light looks like a timing light. My Tru Trak > > auto pilot won't stay booted up, and the noise is heard on my > > com. Things I've tried are...Lonestar mag filters and eliminator > > power filter. Checking all grounds and relocating several to a > > common grounding lug. Wrapping the plug connections with tin foil > > to try to shield the interference. Checking all of the antenna > > connections. Disconnecting various radios and avionics,trying to > > isolate a particular source. Nothing worked. > > > > I used my handheld radio in the cockpit and didn't pick up any > > noise. I also called Revmaster and they is the ones who suggested > > trying the tin foil shielding. > > > > The engine is carburated and uses a Bendix 3000 series dual mag. > > Plugs are NGK resistor plugs, gapped at .016". Hopefully someone > > has a suggestion, or should I consider going back to the aviation > > setup. Is there a different harness that would work? The > > unfortunate thing is that any work that is done on the magnito > > requires that the engine is removed enough to access the mag which > > is recessed into the firewall. Thank you. Dave D. > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 05:23:52 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Very bad RFI From: n81jg@aol.com Hi Dave, Yes, I use auto plugs on the top run by the LSE CD ignition. I forgot to mention that the high tension leads from my coils to plugs are the spiral wound?auto leads and work fine after I had new ones with secure connections made up. I am unfamiliar with the grounding you have with the auto plug leads. My problem was RFI in my headset and in a handheld radio that was isolate from the aircraft system. The latter test showed that I was receiving the RFI through the air. Your problem seems to be getting to your radios through your electrical system wiring, possibly your ignition switchs near your antenna wires, radio wiring or intercom wiring. John -----Original Message----- From: Dave Dugas Sent: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 5:07 pm Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Very bad RFI John, I still have a magnito system, so harness replacement with resistor wires would be a possible cure?? My problem is that every time that I want to access the mags, I have to pull the engine.? Do you use auto plugs?? Thanks for your reply....Dave D n81jg@aol.com wrote: I had a similar problem with RFI in my VariEze when I installed the LSE CD ignition system. I tried the foil covering of the plug leads since it seemed to be high voltage ignition noise in time with plug firing, but it had no effect on lessening the noise in the radio. I had a new set of plug leads made up and the problem was solved. Must have had a minute gap in the lead connections causing a spark gap and RFI. Your local auto parts dealer can make up leads of any length. John Greaves VariEze N81JG Redding, CA -----Original Message----- From: Dave Dugas Sent: Sat, 28 Jul 2007 4:26 pm Subject: AeroElectric-List: Very bad RFI Hello, ? I joined this list?with the hope that I could try to solve my problem in my Q2 with a Revmaster engine.? At 450 hours on the engine I converted to auto plugs.? I changed the heads and replaced the aviation plug connection with auto plug connections supplied with the conversion.? The RFI is so bad that my transponder reply light looks like a timing light.? My Tru Trak auto pilot won't stay booted up, and the noise is heard on my com.? Things I've tried are...Lonestar mag filters and eliminator power filter.? Checking all grounds and relocating several to a common grounding lug.? Wrapping the plug connections with tin foil to try to shield the interference.? Checking all of the antenna connections.? Disconnecting various radios and?avionics,trying to isolate a particular source.? Nothing worked. ? I used my handheld radio in the cockpit and didn't pick up any noise.? I also called Revmaster and they is the ones who suggested trying the tin foil shielding. ? The engine is carburated and uses a Bendix 3000 series dual mag.? Plugs are NGK resistor plugs, gapped at .016".? Hopefully someone has a suggestion, or should I consider going back to the aviation setup.? Is there a different harness that would work?? The unfortunate thing is that any work that is done on the magnito requires that the engine is removed enough to access the mag which is recessed into the firewall.? Thank you.? Dave D. Luggage? GPS? Comic books? ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 07:10:59 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Help with adding an Icom A200 to my existing RT-328 From: "Bill McMullen" Why not just use a 3PDT (three pole) switch and put the headphones on there as well. If the ICOM is your primary radio, you'll note that it also has Aux In inputs. By wiring the other radio to one of these (optionally with a switch), you can monitor both radios at once. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=126272#126272 ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:31:40 PM PST US From: "Alan K. Adamson" Subject: AeroElectric-List: Question about B&C Regulators So, I have 2 LR-3C-28's at the moment to be used with a stock continental 100A 28V alternator and an SD-20 backup alternator..... BUT, a friend came by and told me that B&C recommends that you use the LS-1A instead of the LR-3C with the SD-20. Anyone know why, or if it really matters? I plan to call B&C in the next couple of days to get their side of the story. I did notice that the LS-1A doesn't have a huge heat sink like the 28v version of the LR-3C. But I have no idea what else is different under the hood? Alan ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 09:15:00 PM PST US From: Deems Davis Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Question about B&C Regulators Alan, I believe that the issue is How the SD20 is being used, I'm building to a Z14 and as I understand it, if you are planning on having both alternators continuously online at the same time you use the regulators you have. If you plan on only using the SD20 as a back-up then the other regulator is the choice. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ Alan K. Adamson wrote: > > So, I have 2 LR-3C-28's at the moment to be used with a stock continental > 100A 28V alternator and an SD-20 backup alternator..... BUT, a friend came > by and told me that B&C recommends that you use the LS-1A instead of the > LR-3C with the SD-20. > > Anyone know why, or if it really matters? I plan to call B&C in the next > couple of days to get their side of the story. I did notice that the LS-1A > doesn't have a huge heat sink like the 28v version of the LR-3C. But I have > no idea what else is different under the hood? > > Alan > > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 10:53:24 PM PST US From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" Subject: AeroElectric-List: Thermocouple wire connections I've finally installed all my VM-1000 engine monitor harness and have only to connect the it from the CPU to the pigtails on the EGT/CHT thermocouple probes. Vision supplied the probes with about 2 feet of wire and faston connections terminating them. I have to install fastons on the CPU harness that connects to the probes and was going to use the fastons that Vision supplied but they do not have the second crimp sleeve that provides insulation strain relief. I have a bunch of the strain relief type fastons but not sure if I should use them because it may mess up the readings due to possible metallic connection mismatches between the thermocouple wire. The fastons Vision supplied look to be coated with solder but I don't really know if the underlying material is copper or something else (scratching the surface doesn't yield a copper color underneath). The letters "T&B" are stamped on these terminals. From looking at Bob's book it doesn't appear that this is the way that these thermocouple wires should be spliced but I assume that most Vision Micro buyers use what Vision supplies to assemble their systems. I don't have a problem with this method but would prefer the strain relief terminals if they will work. Otherwise I'll go ahead and splice them with the supplied terminals. Anyone else with VM-1000 have any thoughts? Can I use the strain relief terminals or do I need to use the Vision terminals? The strain relief terminals were purchased at a boat supply store so I suspect they are solder coated copper, may not work for this application (the letters "I2" and "MX" are stamped on these terminals). Also, the Vision fastons on the probe pigtails are not encased in plastic but are installed with some heat shrink around the crimp end. Can't tell if they are soldered but the install manual doesn't say anything about soldering at the harness ends, just crimping the terminals. Would I have to solder these for any reason? Any words of wisdom Bob? Have you returned from OSH yet? Thanks. Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM Will it ever end? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message aeroelectric-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/aeroelectric-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/aeroelectric-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.