AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Mon 08/06/07


Total Messages Posted: 19



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:53 AM - Aero-Electric Chat Room (John Wayne)
     2. 07:31 AM - AEC9011 and other worries . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     3. 07:44 AM - BATTERY MASTER SWITCH (Fergus Kyle)
     4. 08:09 AM - Re: Aero-Electric Chat Room (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     5. 08:33 AM - Re: Intermittent vs. Continuous Duty Contactors (was batteries)... (John McMahon)
     6. 09:32 AM - Optimal bus voltage set point . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     7. 09:35 AM - Re: Intermittent vs. Continuous Duty Contactors (was batteries)... (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     8. 01:37 PM - Strobe whoop whoop wine (Ken)
     9. 02:21 PM - Re: ...T-shirts.. (Gilles Thesee)
    10. 06:11 PM - Antenna for second com radio ()
    11. 06:14 PM - Powering a Camcorder to Record Flight Tests (r falstad)
    12. 06:44 PM - Re: Powering a Camcorder to Record Flight Tests (Carl Morgan)
    13. 07:11 PM - Re: Powering a Camcorder to Record Flight Tests (Eric M. Jones)
    14. 07:13 PM - Re: Powering a Camcorder to Record Flight Tests (Ernest Christley)
    15. 07:32 PM - Re: Powering a Camcorder to Record Flight Tests (Bob McCallum)
    16. 07:50 PM - Re: Powering a Camcorder to Record Flight Tests (Ron Quillin)
    17. 09:10 PM - Re: Powering a Camcorder to Record Flight Tests (S. Ramirez)
    18. 10:00 PM - Re: Homemade Aviation Headset (Carl Peters)
    19. 10:05 PM - Re: Homemade Aviation Headset (Bill Maxwell)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:53:22 AM PST US
    From: "John Wayne" <jwayne_1652@fuse.net>
    Subject: Aero-Electric Chat Room
    I have recently found the AeroElectric-List Digest Archive. Unfortunately, it appears to have become a chat room instead of a constructive exchange of useful information. I would hope that it would return to what I believe was its original intent. John K. Wayne


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:31:34 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: AEC9011 and other worries . . .
    >Hope your trip to Osh went well. I am still interested in the AEC9011 >module for the Z-19RB diagram. Can you give me an estimate as to when >this module will be available? I will be using the Eggenfellner engine >with an internally regulated alternator. Can you also give me design >modifications to your schematic to suit this application? I wish I could >use an externally regulated alternator, but at this time that isn t an >option. I'm not sure that's true. I'm told that Plane Power is going to be offering an externally regulated alternator. Check with them to see how long that will be. Keep in mind that you don't need an alternator installed on your airplane until time for first flight. How far away are you from flying? I wouldn't spend a LOT of time praying over present options especially if a lack of understanding and knowledge may be driving your anxiety levels upward. >There surely is something I can include in my design to make this >alternator application as safe as possible. Eggenfellner isn t offering >any changes in alternator options. Your help would be greatly >appreciated. I am working with Tim Hedding from B&C Electronics and >purchasing all hardware from their supply if available. You might be more >aware of what they stock and recommend something. Beyond incorporation of ov protection there are no SAFETY issues that should drive your alternator selection. Many folks seem to feel that they're flying around with a fused bomb that only waiting for some opportune time to light up and ruin their day. Alternators are indeed capable of extreme and expensive misbehavior but they are never a safety concern in a properly architectured, adequately maintained system, only a cost-of- ownership concern. >Do I need a separate avionics master switch for the Z-19 design? Everyone >seems to think about protecting the avionics, or is the 7A fuse to the >E-bus built-in protection? Go to the website front page and do a search on "avionics master". If one were useful, it would have appeared on the Z-figures. > Can the (1-7) switch for the volt meter be exchanged for a (2-1) > switch? This might give the option of continuous monitoring voltage on > either battery. Yes, you can adjust functionality of any Z-figure to address your wants and desires. The Z-figures are illustrations of architecture with some parts selection and system fabrication details. But the primary value of the Z-figures are to lay the ground-work for a minimum-parts count, simplest-operation system to achieve the desired operability. If it's absolutely necessary that a decision be made today, get a Plane Power alternator. Install the AEC9011 when it becomes available later this summer and you'll be done. If you can provide me with a set of Eggenflener's drawings, perhaps I can tailor Z-19 to be a tad more specific to this engine. Bob . . .


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:44:51 AM PST US
    From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
    Subject: BATTERY MASTER SWITCH
    Cheers, I'm still searching for that elusive device - in an attempt to avoid the cost of an ampere or two of contactor current - which will control a primary battery source and another for secondary battery source. I have found several which meet one criterion or another, but not all: [a] should carry as much current as a contactor for that job; [b] needs to be an up-down rather than rotary type switch; [c] should be on a remote(able) stalk so I can undo the connection to remove the instrument panel ; [d] cost less than the usual contactor - or at least be competitive. I have devised a system to isolate the controls from wandering fingers so am not fussy about security. I'm not sure what a "Kill switch" is really. Any help would be most appreciated. Ferg Classic 914 CS prop mono PS: My server is down for the last 2 days, so my thanks will be delayed.........


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:09:53 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Aero-Electric Chat Room
    At 09:53 AM 8/6/2007 -0400, you wrote: >I have recently found the AeroElectric-List Digest >Archive. Unfortunately, it appears to have become a chat room instead of >a constructive exchange of useful information. > >I would hope that it would return to what I believe was its original intent. This is a fundamental condition for every "wide open" forum. This is why one needs to be adept at using the search functions. You'll find that adjustment of search terms and honing your scanning skills will offer a strong filtering function for separating chaff from the good stuff. The archives were never intended to be a short-cut, in fact it may be a longer path to the answer sought than to simply repeat the topic on today's postings. However, the archives offer a greater depth of coverage than you might get from a lick-and-a-promise exchange on the current list. I'm sorry my friend but education is never a simple, time-frugal endeavor. If it were, everybody would be smart. I've attempted to condense the salient features of some topics into articles on the website. I'll suggest you being with a search at http://aeroelectric.com and expand the search if you don't get the needed help there. Bob . . .


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:33:29 AM PST US
    From: "John McMahon" <blackoaks@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Intermittent vs. Continuous Duty Contactors (was
    batteries)... Greg or Bob , I know that there is an electrical way of telling the two apart in the Connection, but do you know if there is a way to tell them apart visually? All mine as they came with the firewall from Lancair seem to look alike, even to the stenciled numbers on them? > ** > -- John McMahon Lancair Super ES, S/N 170, N9637M (Reserved)


    Message 6


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    Time: 09:32:28 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Optimal bus voltage set point . . .
    >Comments/Questions: I plan on using a gell cell battery in my Glasair and >have been told that I must set the charging voltage at a different level >if I do not want to damage the battery. No one is able to tell me what >voltage level I should use.So much for these self styled experts ,eh? >Can you help? >Stan No special considerations. Set for 14.2 volts nominal. There ARE "optimal" modes of operation for best life in the lab . . . which are generally impractical in the field and overshadowed by other, much more significant stresses. Install it, run it, check for capacity after first year and replace when capacity drops below your personally defined endurance minimums. The act of "tweaking" nominal bus voltage for the purpose of maximizing service life will be exceedingly difficult to validate and probably not improve on service life by more than a few percent. Bob . . . ---------------------------------------- ( IF one wishes to be "world class" at ) ( anything, what ever you do must be ) ( exercised EVERY day . . . ) ( R. L. Nuckolls III ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 7


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    Time: 09:35:33 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Intermittent vs. Continuous Duty Contactors (was
    batteries)... At 09:32 AM 8/6/2007 -0600, you wrote: >Greg or Bob , I know that there is an electrical way of telling the two >apart in the Connection, but do you know if there is a way to tell them >apart visually? All mine as they came with the firewall from Lancair seem >to look alike, even to the stenciled numbers on them? No. Put an ohmmeter on them. A continuous duty contactor will NEVER measure under 6 ohms while an intermittent duty device is always under 6 ohms. Or wire to battery and measure coil current. A tennis ball sized contactor that dissipates more than 20 watts is in deep doo-doo in a matter of minutes. 1.5 A draw from a 12v battery is 18 watts . . . . An intermittent duty device will draw 3-5 amps, 36 to 60 watts. Bob . . . ---------------------------------------- ( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may ) ( give some practical results, but ) ( that's not why we do it." ) ( ) ( Richard P. Feynman ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 8


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    Time: 01:37:30 PM PST US
    From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
    Subject: Strobe whoop whoop wine
    > > >> We have completed 130 flight hours with our Z-14 wired subaru now >> without any nuisance OV trips. The only electrical issue is that I >> recently purchased a comfortable David Clarke headset and with our >> fairly quiet engine, I now hear weak but annoying strobe whine that I >> couldn't hear in cruise with other headsets. I have already followed >> most of your wiring recommendations so it may take me awhile to solve >> this one especially since the strobes operate off a different >> alternator and battery as the radio and intercom. > > > Start with a test battery made up of a couple 6v > lantern batteries to run the strobe supply with a > short cable and batteries located right at the power > supply. You need to deduce the propagation mode. I suspect > it's conducted and a relatively simple filter at the > power supply will fix it. > > Bob . . . > It is a pain to pull my wingtips to get at the aeroflash power supplies and I have not done that yet. However I have powered the strobes from a separate battery with their normal fuse pulled and I still hear the noise faintly in the headset even with the engine, master switch, intercom, and radio turned OFF. It is a bit louder with the intercom powered up but I was not expecting to hear it with the intercom and radio turned off. It is a metal airframe and the strobe power supplies, the comm radio, and the intercom are all grounded to the airframe because they are all internally grounded to their respective cases. The headset jacks are insulated from the airframe (in a plastic box) and wired with shielded wire. Thinking it could be a ground loop situation I tried grounding the temporary battery to a screw on the wing spar but it did not seem to make a difference. Adding some inductance to the +power lead and some electrolytic capacitors made no diference. Before I pull the wingtips I'd like to have a plan and any needed parts on hand. I will look for some automotive radio power supply filters and pick up some nylon bolts to insulate the power supply from the airframe. Any other suggestions? Is there any point adding some capacitance to the headphone audio circuit to try and bypass some of the higer frequencies. This noise was not bothering me until I replaced one headset with a DC H10-13.4. thanks Ken


    Message 9


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    Time: 02:21:45 PM PST US
    From: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
    Subject: Re: ...T-shirts..
    Henador Titzoff a crit : > They're talking about a nice song in French and Spanish... Wait a minute...I'm French ;-) Sorry, no moustache, no beret, no baguette... Best regards, -- Gilles http://contrails.free.fr


    Message 10


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    Time: 06:11:30 PM PST US
    From: <psiegel@fuse.net>
    Subject: Antenna for second com radio
    To get ready for the 2008 AirVenture Cup Race, I am conducting a drag reduction program on my all metal Evo. I would like to eliminate one of the two external surface com antennae from the belly. Two options seem available, an antenna mounted in the cockpit behind the passenger seat on the aft cockpit bulkhead, or a thin wire antenna taped to the windscreen (not unlike the thin wire antennae found in windshields on automobiles.) Any suggestions from the list members on how to proceed? If I use the taped wire antenna on the windscreen, should I use the same system as used on copper foil entennae on composite aircraft but substituting a thin wire for the copper foil? Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions! Paul Siegel N4XU


    Message 11


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    Time: 06:14:01 PM PST US
    From: "r falstad" <bobair8@msn.com>
    Subject: Powering a Camcorder to Record Flight Tests
    I have an old analog Sony Handycam (CCD-FX310) that I'd like to mount in the cockpit to record my upcoming flight tests. Batteries are expensive and don't last long -- I'd like to use ship's power. It has a 110VAC to 7.5VDC power brick (Sony Model AC-V35) with a special adapter plate that clicks into the place where the battery would go. The brick says the output is 7.5VDC & 1.6A. I'd like to cut the cord between the brick and the adapter plate, insert a set of connectors and make a pigtail with a matching connector on one end and a cigarette lighter plug on the other. Because of the voltage difference (14VDC - 7.5VDC), it looks like I'll need about a 4 ohm resistor to drop the 6.5VDC. It looks like the power consumption will be about 10.4 Watts. The closest thing I could find on Radio Shack's website is either a 1 ohm or 10 ohm, 10 Amp, 10% wire-wound power resistor (Catalog No. 271-131). There was no indication how large they are physically. In theory, I could chain four of the 1 ohm units together. Is my thinking correct? All I want is to power the camcorder from ship's power. Any recommendations on connectors and any critique on the idea of simply putting a resistor (and a fuse) in the pigtail/circuit to reduce the voltage? Is there any other power conditioning I should do? Best regards, Bob


    Message 12


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    Time: 06:44:27 PM PST US
    From: "Carl Morgan" <zk-vii@rvproject.gen.nz>
    Subject: Powering a Camcorder to Record Flight Tests
    Hi Bob, Depending on how complicated you want to get. A LM2579 plus a few external components (a schotty diode, a couple of caps / resistors and an inductor) can provide a switched DC-DC step down supply <3A. http://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/LM2576-D.PDF Total parts from digikey / mouser should be < $20 I would hope. Regards, Carl (working on a Canon DV camera power feed ;-) -- ZK-VII - RV 7A QB - still finishing? - New Zealand http://www.rvproject.gen.nz/ -----Original Message----- From: r falstad [mailto:bobair8@msn.com] Sent: Tuesday, 7 August 2007 1:13 p.m. To: AEROELECTRIC LIST Subject: AeroElectric-List: Powering a Camcorder to Record Flight Tests I have an old analog Sony Handycam (CCD-FX310) that I'd like to mount in the cockpit to record my upcoming flight tests. Batteries are expensive and don't last long -- I'd like to use ship's power. It has a 110VAC to 7.5VDC power brick (Sony Model AC-V35) with a special adapter plate that clicks into the place where the battery would go. The brick says the output is 7.5VDC & 1.6A. I'd like to cut the cord between the brick and the adapter plate, insert a set of connectors and make a pigtail with a matching connector on one end and a cigarette lighter plug on the other. Because of the voltage difference (14VDC - 7.5VDC), it looks like I'll need about a 4 ohm resistor to drop the 6.5VDC. It looks like the power consumption will be about 10.4 Watts. The closest thing I could find on Radio Shack's website is either a 1 ohm or 10 ohm, 10 Amp, 10% wire-wound power resistor (Catalog No. 271-131). There was no indication how large they are physically. In theory, I could chain four of the 1 ohm units together. Is my thinking correct? All I want is to power the camcorder from ship's power. Any recommendations on connectors and any critique on the idea of simply putting a resistor (and a fuse) in the pigtail/circuit to reduce the voltage? Is there any other power conditioning I should do? Best regards, Bob


    Message 13


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    Time: 07:11:10 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Powering a Camcorder to Record Flight Tests
    From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
    Your calculations on how to do this show why it isn't usually done with resistors. Resistors also presume constant load, which in general is not often true. If you had to do this in a hurry you could simply wire a 6V lamp in series. But the right way to do it is a linear regulator chip like the LM350. See: http://www.national.com/mpf/LM/LM350.html. The LM317 can be used, but is 1.5A. The LM350 is the same part at 3A. "Don't worry about people stealing an idea. If it's original, you will have to ram it down their throats." -- Howard Aiken -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones@charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=127880#127880


    Message 14


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    Time: 07:13:33 PM PST US
    From: Ernest Christley <echristley@nc.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Powering a Camcorder to Record Flight Tests
    r falstad wrote: > I have an old analog Sony Handycam (CCD-FX310) that I'd like to mount in the cockpit to record my upcoming flight tests. Batteries are expensive and don't last long -- I'd like to use ship's power. It has a 110VAC to 7.5VDC power brick (Sony Model AC-V35) with a special adapter plate that clicks into the place where the battery would go. The brick says the output is 7.5VDC & 1.6A. I'd like to cut the cord between the brick and the adapter plate, insert a set of connectors and make a pigtail with a matching connector on one end and a cigarette lighter plug on the other. > > Because of the voltage difference (14VDC - 7.5VDC), it looks like I'll need about a 4 ohm resistor to drop the 6.5VDC. It looks like the power consumption will be about 10.4 Watts. The closest thing I could find on Radio Shack's website is either a 1 ohm or 10 ohm, 10 Amp, 10% wire-wound power resistor (Catalog No. 271-131). There was no indication how large they are physically. In theory, I could chain four of the 1 ohm units together. > > Is my thinking correct? All I want is to power the camcorder from ship's power. Any recommendations on connectors and any critique on the idea of simply putting a resistor (and a fuse) in the pigtail/circuit to reduce the voltage? Is there any other power conditioning I should do? > > Best regards, > > Bob > > Seems to be a lot of work for a temporary use that could be holding up your flight tests. You can get a 70watt inverter for about $20 that will plug into the cigarette lighter jack. Then you can use your adapter plate as-is, don't have to worry that you got all the electronics modified correctly, and won't regret cutting the cord at some point in the future. -- "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, with chocolate in one hand and wine in the other, loudly proclaiming 'WOO HOO What a Ride!'" --Unknown


    Message 15


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    Time: 07:32:53 PM PST US
    From: "Bob McCallum" <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
    Subject: Re: Powering a Camcorder to Record Flight Tests
    Bob; One of the shortcomings of doing it with a simple resistor is that the Camcorder's current draw will vary as you record, or go to standby, zoom, or turn it on/off etc. (It's not constant at that 1.6 Amp figure, that's just a max) Therefore the voltage you're applying to it will vary (perhaps drastically, all the way up to the supply voltage) and the camcorder may not like that. (As the current requirement falls so does the voltage drop across your resistor and therefore a greater voltage is applied to your camcorder than you planned for) Bob McC ----- Original Message ----- From: r falstad To: AEROELECTRIC LIST Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 9:13 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Powering a Camcorder to Record Flight Tests I have an old analog Sony Handycam (CCD-FX310) that I'd like to mount in the cockpit to record my upcoming flight tests. Batteries are expensive and don't last long -- I'd like to use ship's power. It has a 110VAC to 7.5VDC power brick (Sony Model AC-V35) with a special adapter plate that clicks into the place where the battery would go. The brick says the output is 7.5VDC & 1.6A. I'd like to cut the cord between the brick and the adapter plate, insert a set of connectors and make a pigtail with a matching connector on one end and a cigarette lighter plug on the other. Because of the voltage difference (14VDC - 7.5VDC), it looks like I'll need about a 4 ohm resistor to drop the 6.5VDC. It looks like the power consumption will be about 10.4 Watts. The closest thing I could find on Radio Shack's website is either a 1 ohm or 10 ohm, 10 Amp, 10% wire-wound power resistor (Catalog No. 271-131). There was no indication how large they are physically. In theory, I could chain four of the 1 ohm units together. Is my thinking correct? All I want is to power the camcorder from ship's power. Any recommendations on connectors and any critique on the idea of simply putting a resistor (and a fuse) in the pigtail/circuit to reduce the voltage? Is there any other power conditioning I should do? Best regards, Bob


    Message 16


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    Time: 07:50:45 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Powering a Camcorder to Record Flight Tests
    From: Ron Quillin <rjquillin@gmail.com>
    At 19:13 8/6/2007, you wrote: >Seems to be a lot of work for a temporary use that could be holding >up your flight tests. You can get a 70watt inverter for about $20 >that will plug into the cigarette lighter jack. Then you can use >your adapter plate as-is, don't have to worry that you got all the >electronics modified correctly, and won't regret cutting the cord at >some point in the future. Or just <horrors> purchase a car-cord for the unit... http://www.ebuybatteries.com/product/models/2_Sony-NP-77-AC-charger_Sony+CCD-FX310.htm http://www.dc-battery.com.au/sony-np77-battery-charger-p-1330.html


    Message 17


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    Time: 09:10:16 PM PST US
    From: "S. Ramirez" <simon@synchronousdesign.com>
    Subject: Powering a Camcorder to Record Flight Tests
    Bob, Th other guys are correct about using a resistor to drop the voltage. It will have varying voltage at the load, as it draws varying current. Not a good way to go. You need a voltage regulator. Someone earlier suggested that you need a linear voltage regulator. The problem with this solution is that it will dissipate (not consume) 6.5V*1.6A = 10.4W. That's a lot of power, and you will have to heat sink it very heftily. It does have the advantage of providing the cleanest output, though, if you can handle the heat sinking. Another solution is to go with a packaged switching voltage regulator. Digi-Key has the TI PT78HT208H (Digi-Key pn 296-20250-ND) in stock for USD $16.20. It outputs 8.0V at 2.0A all day long. Can you handle 8.0V =B1 2%? Can you handle output voltage ripple of =B11% (0.08V)? If you can, this may be the way to go. This part comes in an EFA package, which is about 1 inch X .90 inch X .31 inch. Unfortunately, it needs a 1 uF ceramic capacitor C1 at the input and a 100 uF electrolytic capacitor C2 at the output. Here are some examples: Digi-Key pn493-1283-ND 100 uF, 16V, electrolytic, radial, 20%, general purpose, min buy 1, price USD $0.14 each Digi-Key pn 478-4504-ND 1 uF, 50V, ceramic, 10%, radial, general purpose, min buy 1, price USD $9.02 each All parts above are RoHS, so soldering will be about the same temp. Since Digi-Key has a USD $5 handling charge for orders less than USD $25, you can throw these caps into the same order to get it above $25. I would strongly advise you looking at the datasheets to know what you are getting into, but I believe that this combo of parts would suit your requirements, if you can handle 8 VDC =B1 the tolerances above. Simon Ramirez, Aerocanard Builder Flying LEZ Copyright =A9 2007 _____ From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of r falstad Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 9:13 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Powering a Camcorder to Record Flight Tests I have an old analog Sony Handycam (CCD-FX310) that I'd like to mount in the cockpit to record my upcoming flight tests. Batteries are expensive and don't last long -- I'd like to use ship's power. It has a 110VAC to 7.5VDC power brick (Sony Model AC-V35) with a special adapter plate that clicks into the place where the battery would go. The brick says the output is 7.5VDC & 1.6A. I'd like to cut the cord between the brick and the adapter plate, insert a set of connectors and make a pigtail with a matching connector on one end and a cigarette lighter plug on the other. Because of the voltage difference (14VDC - 7.5VDC), it looks like I'll need about a 4 ohm resistor to drop the 6.5VDC. It looks like the power consumption will be about 10.4 Watts. The closest thing I could find on Radio Shack's website is either a 1 ohm or 10 ohm, 10 Amp, 10% wire-wound power resistor (Catalog No. 271-131). There was no indication how large they are physically. In theory, I could chain four of the 1 ohm units together. Is my thinking correct? All I want is to power the camcorder from ship's power. Any recommendations on connectors and any critique on the idea of simply putting a resistor (and a fuse) in the pigtail/circuit to reduce the voltage? Is there any other power conditioning I should do? Best regards, Bob 7.5.476 /


    Message 18


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    Time: 10:00:00 PM PST US
    From: Carl Peters <say.ahh1@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: Homemade Aviation Headset
    Getting ready to do the same, and have all the parts and an old headset to gut for the mic, cords, and plugs. A couple simple Q's: 1) And the most basic of questions - if I build a stereo headset, is there any problem with a stereo plug in a mono intercom system jack? I assume I will just hear monaural sound. 2) One builder put in pots and another just added resistors to adjust the ear speakers to match other headsets (in case someone flying with you uses a different headset) - has anyone built one without these? I guess I will need to experiment, and it will depend on the sensitivity of the in-ear speakers. I did get the Comply headset with their proprietary tips that are wonderful. The set looks to be the same from TrickAudio. Haven't tested in the air, but cuts out the wife and kids nicely...I mean excessive noises. After two hours in the ear, the comfort is wonderful - really don't notice the tips. The set is nice enough that I will have it jack separately into the project box so I can use them elsewhere besides the plane. http://www.canardzone.com/members/nickugolini/CuplessHeadet/cupless_headset.htm http://www.cozy1200.com/geeklog/index.php http://www.trickearphones.com/index.htm Carl


    Message 19


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    Time: 10:05:46 PM PST US
    From: "Bill Maxwell" <wrmaxwell@bigpond.com>
    Subject: Re: Homemade Aviation Headset
    and if you run two such headsets at the same time, the 1000 ohms falls to 500 ohms, a much better match? Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob White" <bob@bob-white.com> Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 2:02 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Homemade Aviation Headset > > On Sun, 5 Aug 2007 10:16:47 -0400 > "Bill Bradburry" <bbradburry@bellsouth.net> wrote: > >> <bbradburry@bellsouth.net> >> >> I am considering trying to make a headset as is described in the link >> below: >> >> http://www.cozy1200.com/geeklog/article.php?story 070427102533266 >> >> I am confused by the fact that the transformer he suggests to use from >> Radio >> Shack is 1000 ohm input/8 ohm output. The plane system is going to be >> looking for a 600 ohm input??? >> >> What will this 1000 ohm transformer do to the plane system? Will it harm >> it? Will the system output be louder or softer with the 1000 ohm than it >> would have been with a 600 ohm transformer? >> >> If I knew what I was doing here I would probably afraid to proceed. As >> it >> is I am fearless....:>) >> >> Thanks for your assistance. >> >> Bill B > > Hi Bill, > > The 1000 ohm transformer will not load a 600 ohm circuit quite as > much. In audio circuits, you need to match impedance to maximize power > transfer. If you don't need maximum power transfer, and you probably > don't, it should work just fine. > > Bob W. > > -- > N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com > 3.8 Hours Total Time and holding > Cables for your rotary installation - http://www.roblinphoto.com/shop/ > > >




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