Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:54 AM - Re: Homemade Aviation Headset (Ernest Christley)
2. 05:56 AM - Re: Homemade Aviation Headset (Ernest Christley)
3. 06:21 AM - Re: Powering a Camcorder to Record Flight Tests (Harley)
4. 07:31 AM - Re: BATTERY MASTER SWITCH (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 07:34 AM - Re: Antenna for second com radio (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 07:59 AM - Re: Antenna for second com radio (BobsV35B@aol.com)
7. 02:29 PM - Circuit Breaker Bus Bar (Scott R. Shook)
8. 04:12 PM - Re: Circuit Breaker Bus Bar (Michael Ice)
9. 04:50 PM - Missed email mesages (Fergus Kyle)
10. 04:55 PM - Re: Circuit Breaker Bus Bar (Alan Adamson)
11. 07:42 PM - Re: Circuit Breaker Bus Bar (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 09:09 PM - Re: BATTERY MASTER SWITCH (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Homemade Aviation Headset |
Carl Peters wrote:
> <say.ahh1@verizon.net>
>
> Getting ready to do the same, and have all the parts and an old
> headset to gut for the mic, cords, and plugs.
> A couple simple Q's:
> 1) And the most basic of questions - if I build a stereo headset, is
> there any problem with a stereo plug in a mono intercom system jack? I
> assume I will just hear monaural sound.
No the stereo plug was designed around the mono plug to be
interchangable. You'll simply get sound in one ear when you plug a
stereo headphone into a mono jack.
My intercom is mono, and I don't want to modify the headphones (so that
I can use them elsewhere, as you state). The stereo jack has three
contacts: ground, left and right. The stereo plug has 3 regions. The
sleeve closest to the plastic is ground. The middle area is left and
the tip is right (I think. I may have left and right reversed). By
jumpering the left and right together in the jack, I get sound in both
ears without modifying the phones. This also drops the 1000ohm to 500
as Bill stated.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Homemade Aviation Headset |
Carl Peters wrote:
> 2) One builder put in pots and another just added resistors to adjust
> the ear speakers to match other headsets (in case someone flying with
> you uses a different headset) - has anyone built one without these? I
> guess I will need to experiment, and it will depend on the sensitivity
> of the in-ear speakers.
The intercom has a volume control. Most aviation headsets have a volume
control. I'll set the volume to my comfort with the intercom, and let
everyone else adjust to that. If it gets to be a problem, a pot can be
added easily enough later.
Another option is that there are lots of earbuds with inline volume
control already.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Powering a Camcorder to Record Flight Tests |
Have you considered simply buying a new camera? The new snapshot
cameras also do video as good as the digital camcorders. Kinda an
all-in-one.
I just got a Fuji V10 from Tiger Direct for $170 that not only takes 5
MB photos, but has an almost unlimited video feature (and it does it in
AVI...uncompressed...format..best quality...results look - and are-
BETTER than my JVC analog video camera). Has a card slot, which Fuji
uses their own more expensive XD cards in, but with the 1 GB XD card
that came with it, I'm all set for 15 minute videos.
You don't have to get a Fuji, though. Todays newer cameras have all the
featueres of ones just a month or two old. Look for a camera that uses
the cheaper SD cards, and get a couple of $20 2GB cards, and you'll be
set for hour long videos. Video length is limited only by the size or
number of the SD cards.
It also has several neat games built in to keep the GIB or KIB (Kid In
Back) busy on long trips.
www.dpreview.com/news/0601/06010403fuji_v10.asp
As someone else mentioned, get a universal car power cord from Radio
Shack and with the camera's standard tripod mount, you could mount it
just about anywhere in the plane with a tripod screw. Haven't tested
the battery yet for longevity, but it lasts for days. I take many
pictures daily...took a 15 minute video and a bunch of flash pictures at
a family gathering last Friday, transferred them to the computer and the
battery indicator still read full.
Has full normal video...30 frames per second at 640 x 480 pixels, so
it's as good as any analog unit. Also has NTSC output for TV viewing,
sound, built in slide show option, etc.
Look around and you'll probably find a better one cheaper now...they
seem to upgrade monthly!
Harley Dixon
------------------------------------------------------------------------
r falstad wrote:
> I have an old analog Sony Handycam (CCD-FX310) that I'd like to mount
> in the cockpit to record my upcoming flight tests. Batteries are
> expensive and don't last long -- I'd like to use ship's power. It has
> a 110VAC to 7.5VDC power brick (Sony Model AC-V35) with a special
> adapter plate that clicks into the place where the battery would go.
> The brick says the output is 7.5VDC & 1.6A. I'd like to cut the cord
> between the brick and the adapter plate, insert a set of connectors
> and make a pigtail with a matching connector on one end and a
> cigarette lighter plug on the other.
>
> Because of the voltage difference (14VDC - 7.5VDC), it looks like I'll
> need about a 4 ohm resistor to drop the 6.5VDC. It looks like the
> power consumption will be about 10.4 Watts. The closest thing I could
> find on Radio Shack's website is either a 1 ohm or 10 ohm, 10 Amp, 10%
> wire-wound power resistor (Catalog No. 271-131). There was no
> indication how large they are physically. In theory, I could chain
> four of the 1 ohm units together.
>
> Is my thinking correct? All I want is to power the camcorder from
> ship's power. Any recommendations on connectors and any critique on
> the idea of simply putting a resistor (and a fuse) in the
> pigtail/circuit to reduce the voltage? Is there any other power
> conditioning I should do?
>
> Best regards,
>
> Bob
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: BATTERY MASTER SWITCH |
At 10:43 AM 8/6/2007 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Cheers,
> I'm still searching for that elusive device - in an attempt to avoid
>the cost of an ampere or two of contactor current - which will control a
>primary battery source and another for secondary battery source.
> I have found several which meet one criterion or another, but not
>all:
>[a] should carry as much current as a contactor for that job;
>[b] needs to be an up-down rather than rotary type switch;
>[c] should be on a remote(able) stalk so I can undo the connection to
>remove the instrument panel ;
>[d] cost less than the usual contactor - or at least be competitive.
> I have devised a system to isolate the controls from wandering
>fingers so am not fussy about security. I'm not sure what a "Kill switch" is
>really.
> Any help would be most appreciated.
Ferg, Why not build one? You need to support two 5/16" brass
studs on an insulating material, say 1/8" thick fiberglass/epoxy
sheet. Taper switch ends of studs to provide a spherical tip
with about 1/8th inch radius. Mount studs just far enough apart
to allow connection with fat-wires . . . about 1" would probably
do. Build box on terminal board to capture a brass "slider"
(3/8" square stock) that is pressed against stud tips with
spring loading from back side. You could rig a Bowden control
cable to operate the slide (you need about 1/2 to 3/4" stroke)
for making and breaking the switch. This seems like a project
that could be crafted with common hand tools. The
end product would be on the order of 3" long, 1.5" wide and
perhaps 2" deep. Perfect the design and we'll do an article
on it for the website.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna for second com radio |
At 09:09 PM 8/6/2007 -0400, you wrote:
>
>To get ready for the 2008 AirVenture Cup Race, I am conducting a drag
>reduction program on my all metal Evo. I would like to eliminate one of
>the two external surface com antennae from the belly.
>
>Two options seem available, an antenna mounted in the cockpit behind the
>passenger seat on the aft cockpit bulkhead, or a thin wire antenna taped
>to the windscreen (not unlike the thin wire antennae found in windshields
>on automobiles.)
>
>Any suggestions from the list members on how to proceed?
>
>If I use the taped wire antenna on the windscreen, should I use the same
>system as used on copper foil entennae on composite aircraft but
>substituting a thin wire for the copper foil?
>
>Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions!
>
>Paul Siegel N4XU
If this is a temporary configuration change to accommodate
a short time event, why not simply do away with the sticky-out
antennas all together? Use a hand-held with rubber duck during
the event.
I had a builder some years ago mount all his sticky-out antennas
on removable inspection plates. While being judged for show,
all antennas were replaced with blank plates. Seems like cheating
to me but perhaps the judges were not interested in overall system
utility, only appearances. In any case, the optimum solution to
your problem is one that generates the least amount of pre-event
labor and modifications to an otherwise perfectly good working
airplane.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna for second com radio |
Good Morning Bob, Paul,
Back in my glider flying days, we used one of those little fiberglass
antennas that were sometimes used instead of rubber duckies with a handheld. We
used a section of Coax between the handheld and the antenna. A hole was drilled
in the belly of the glider and the antenna stuck through the hole when it was
needed. A piece of tape was applied over the hole when it was not in use so
as to eliminate any drag produced by the hole. We did seem to get better
results from the handheld with the antenna out the belly than when it was just
used directly.
I doubt if it was a very efficient set up, but seemed to work fairly well
except for when somebody forgot to remove the antenna before landing. To handle
that eventuality, most of us carried a spare antenna.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
In a message dated 8/7/2007 9:37:10 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
nuckollsr@cox.net writes:
If this is a temporary configuration change to accommodate
a short time event, why not simply do away with the sticky-out
antennas all together? Use a hand-held with rubber duck during
the event.
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
Message 7
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| Subject: | Circuit Breaker Bus Bar |
Greetings,
I have lurked in the AeroElectric list for a while and I am coming to point
in my project where I am going to be planning and building my electrical
system. I am looking at 12 circuit breakers (spare the groans) in a 3 x 4
configuration.
Would anyone be willing to send a photo or many photos of how would one go
about making a copper bus bar for a configuration like that where the
breakers are not inline?
Also, what are you doing to insulate the bus bar against accidental contact
with a ground?
Thank you,
Scott R. Shook
RV-7A (Building)
N696JS (Reserved)
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Circuit Breaker Bus Bar |
Scott,
The answers you look for are the same reasons folks don't use that system.
But: Use 3 cappoer bars and tie them together on the ends with another copper strip.
You can put "liquid Electrical Tape" on the ends to try and keep it all
safe. Most bus bars have no protection, at least the ones I have seen. I am sure
your idea will work and you will fly successfully for years.
Build on, Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Circuit Breaker Bus Bar
> Greetings,
>
> I have lurked in the AeroElectric list for a while and I am coming
> to point
> in my project where I am going to be planning and building my
> electricalsystem. I am looking at 12 circuit breakers (spare the
> groans) in a 3 x 4
> configuration.
>
> Would anyone be willing to send a photo or many photos of how
> would one go
> about making a copper bus bar for a configuration like that where the
> breakers are not inline?
>
> Also, what are you doing to insulate the bus bar against
> accidental contact
> with a ground?
>
> Thank you,
>
>
>
> Scott R. Shook
> RV-7A (Building)
> N696JS (Reserved)
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Missed email mesages |
I must apologize, but my server 'ra.ca' had lost control of its machinery
this last weekend and in the process of countering spam lost all emails to
me from Saturday 04AUG to yesterday, Monday 07Aug. 7, 07 inclusive.
If you had sent me critical advice or legal information during that
period, I will not have got it and cannot therefore respond..........
Sorry
Ferg
Message 10
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| Subject: | Circuit Breaker Bus Bar |
I don't know if this will work for anyone but...
Lancair Avionics will sell "pre-drilled" copper buss bars that are setup on
a specific spacing for Klixon breakers. I actually have some and won't be
using them. They come in two lengths with two different centers.
I just pulled mine and the long bars (about 8-9 inches) are on approx .75"
centers... The short bars are about 7" long and on drilled on 1.1" centers
(these are approx centers and I just grabbed my dial calipers and eyeballed
them. The wider centers are used to connect the horizontal rows, vertically
and to the main wires coming to the busses. The narrower centers are used
to connect the breakers together in any specific row.
Here are some pictures that I shot quick
http://www.highrf.com/albums/Legacy-Panel/DSCN1977.sized.jpg - the buss bars
<http://www.highrf.com/albums/Legacy-Panel/DSCN1978.sized.jpg>
http://www.highrf.com/albums/Legacy-Panel/DSCN1978.sized.jpg - another of
the bars
<http://www.highrf.com/albums/Legacy-Panel/DSCN1979.sized.jpg>
http://www.highrf.com/albums/Legacy-Panel/DSCN1979.sized.jpg - the spacing
that they fit
Hope this helps. I don't remember those strips being that expensive, but
it's been awhile since I got these.
Alan
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Ice
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 7:11 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Circuit Breaker Bus Bar
Scott,
The answers you look for are the same reasons folks don't use that system.
But: Use 3 cappoer bars and tie them together on the ends with another
copper strip. You can put "liquid Electrical Tape" on the ends to try and
keep it all safe. Most bus bars have no protection, at least the ones I have
seen. I am sure your idea will work and you will fly successfully for years.
Build on, Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Circuit Breaker Bus Bar
> Greetings,
>
> I have lurked in the AeroElectric list for a while and I am coming
> to point
> in my project where I am going to be planning and building my
> electricalsystem. I am looking at 12 circuit breakers (spare the
> groans) in a 3 x 4
> configuration.
>
> Would anyone be willing to send a photo or many photos of how
> would one go
> about making a copper bus bar for a configuration like that where the
> breakers are not inline?
>
> Also, what are you doing to insulate the bus bar against
> accidental contact
> with a ground?
>
> Thank you,
>
>
>
> Scott R. Shook
> RV-7A (Building)
> N696JS (Reserved)
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Circuit Breaker Bus Bar |
At 02:27 PM 8/7/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>Greetings,
>
>I have lurked in the AeroElectric list for a while and I am coming to
>point in my project where I am going to be planning and building my
>electrical system. I am looking at 12 circuit breakers (spare the groans)
>in a 3 x 4 configuration.
>
>Would anyone be willing to send a photo or many photos of how would one go
>about making a copper bus bar for a configuration like that where the
>breakers are not inline?
See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Breakers/Breaker_Panel_Busing_0.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Breakers/Breaker_Panel_Busing_1.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Breakers/Breaker_Panel_Busing_2.jpg
>Also, what are you doing to insulate the bus bar against accidental
>contact with a ground?
Not necessary. There should be nothing in vicinity capable
of producing the ground. All bus bars on light aircraft
are essentially waving in the breeze behind the breaker
panel.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: BATTERY MASTER SWITCH |
At 10:43 AM 8/6/2007 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Cheers,
> I'm still searching for that elusive device - in an attempt to avoid
>the cost of an ampere or two of contactor current - which will control a
>primary battery source and another for secondary battery source.
> I have found several which meet one criterion or another, but not
>all:
>[a] should carry as much current as a contactor for that job;
>[b] needs to be an up-down rather than rotary type switch;
>[c] should be on a remote(able) stalk so I can undo the connection to
>remove the instrument panel ;
>[d] cost less than the usual contactor - or at least be competitive.
> I have devised a system to isolate the controls from wandering
>fingers so am not fussy about security. I'm not sure what a "Kill switch" is
>really.
> Any help would be most appreciated.
Ferg, Why not build one? You need to support two 5/16" brass
studs on an insulating material, say 1/8" thick fiberglass/epoxy
sheet. Taper switch ends of studs to provide a spherical tip
with about 1/8th inch radius. Mount studs just far enough apart
to allow connection with fat-wires . . . about 1" would probably
do. Build box on terminal board to capture a brass "slider"
(3/8" square stock) that is pressed against stud tips with
spring loading from back side. You could rig a Bowden control
cable to operate the slide (you need about 1/2 to 3/4" stroke)
for making and breaking the switch. This seems like a project
that could be crafted with common hand tools. The
end product would be on the order of 2.5" long, 1.2" wide and
perhaps 2" tall overall. Perfect the design and we'll do an article
on it for the website.
Here's a rough layout of a possible design
http://aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9042/9042-100.pdf
The brass stock, parts and spring-stud are McMaster catalog
items. Side brackets can be aluminum sheet or extrusion.
Insulating material could be Delrin or perhaps even a
hard "machinable" wood like walnut or oak.
Bob . . .
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