Today's Message Index:
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1. 02:29 AM - Re: Icom A-200 dimming ()
2. 01:22 PM - Re: How to check and alternator?? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 02:14 PM - No charge ()
4. 02:26 PM - Re: No charge (Gilles Thesee)
5. 04:48 PM - Thermoelectric Generators (Richard Tasker)
6. 05:48 PM - spade lug failure. (sarg314)
7. 06:04 PM - Lightspeed spark plug wires (sarg314)
8. 07:05 PM - Re: Lightspeed spark plug wires (mkejrj@comcast.net)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Icom A-200 dimming |
Ernest from the installation manual:
Pin "B" is +14v for light
Pin "1" is GROUND for pin "B"
This may what you want. Do some bench test.
It sounds like a discrete ground for the light!
Dimming is nice but you don't know until you
fly at night with it. I fly a bubble canopy (RV) and it
can reflect light. Sounds like you PWM will work
off the ligt ground on PIN 1.
Good Luck George
>From: Ernest Christley <echristley@nc.rr.com>
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Icom A-200 dimming
>
>posting to this list on 2/13/06 indicates that only the positive
>side of the lighting circuit is exposed to through the connector.
>
>My first question is, "Is this correct?
>
>There's no easy access to the lighting circuit's ground lead?"
>
>The second question, "Is a dimmer necessary?"
---------------------------------
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Message 2
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Subject: | Re: How to check and alternator?? |
At 09:24 PM 8/27/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>Thanks for messages.
>
>Here's the answer to your questions.
>
>I have a Chief Aircraft +/- 40 ammeter with a 40amp shunt.
>
>I think my alternator is 35 amps but can't remember - I'll have to look
>that up. I am running Nav lights, strobe lights, wig wag lights, and a
>full Garmin stack so I'm thinking I may need to upgrade my
>alternator. Will have to add that up before first flight to see the load.
>
>The ammeter has a positive and negative terminal on the back. The
>positive is connected to to the small screw on the shunt which also has a
>large screw on the same side which is wired directly to the main power bus
>which also splits to a wire between the master and starter relay. The
>negative side on the back of the ammeter is connected to the opposite
>small screw on the shunt which also has a large screw which is wired
>through a 60amp circuit breaker to the main power bus.
>
>Kinda hard to explain without a picture. I followed the Bingeles book
>when I wired it up a few years back so maybe I messed something up.
>
>I do know that the volt meter reads barely under 14 volts with the engine
>running.
>
>Thanks for the help!!!!
The -zero+ reading ammeter is a BATTERY ammeter. When things
are running normally (alternator carrying ship's loads and
battery fully charged) then it SHOULD read at or near zero.
Turn some things on with the engine not running. Let them run
of the battery for 10 minutes or so. The ammeter should be
showing a (-) value - energy is coming out of the battery.
Take a voltmeter reading.
Now, start the engine and turn the alternator on. Note the bus
voltage. We would LIKE to see 14.2 to 14.6 volts but 13.8 or 13.9
would still charge the battery.
After the alternator comes on, if you see a rise in bus voltage,
then the alternator IS working to some degree. Its set point may
be too low . . . but it is working. Now the ammeter should show
a decided (+) reading - energy is being stuffed back into the
battery. Turn all the accessories off and observe the ammeter
which should begin to move back toward zero indicating that the
battery is topped off.
For the moment, nothing you've written suggests that the system
is seriously malfunctioning. It may need adjustment of voltage.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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I'm having charging problems again.
Using the Z16 diagram with Rotax 912 ULS.
I had a charging problem before and found my "C" wire connector from the
Voltage Regulator was not properly seated. When I made good connection
I got a charge.
Today there's no charge again, according to the Dynon & GRT voltmeters.
I believe I have a good connection to the regulator but not sure how to
test.
Suggestions? Other possible problems to consider?
Thanks
Frank McDonald
Message 4
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frank.phyllis@mindspring.com a crit :
> Using the Z16 diagram with Rotax 912 ULS.
> I had a charging problem before and found my "C" wire connector from the
> Voltage Regulator was not properly seated. When I made good connection
> I got a charge.
> Today there's no charge again, according to the Dynon & GRT voltmeters.
> I believe I have a good connection to the regulator but not sure how to
> test.
>
Franck,
Have you checked the regulator ground wire ? It should be the same size
as the positive wire, since it will carry the 18-20 A current.
Best regards,
--
Gilles, Z16 with dual battery
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 5
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Subject: | Thermoelectric Generators |
I don't know how many your "hand-full of watts" are but here is a source
of thermoelectric generators in the 2.5 to 19 watt range. Certainly
wouldn't run an all electric airplane, but might keep your radios
running. They also offer a DC-DC converter to provide a regulated 12V
output.
Dick Tasker
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> <nuckollsr@cox.net>
>
> I'm not aware of any thermoelectric products that go beyond
> a hand-full of watts capability. That technology goes back a
> very long way. Here's a small step back in time to when thermoelectric
> power generation became commercially practical technology:
Message 6
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Subject: | spade lug failure. |
I have been wiring my plane using some high quality (well, at least
they're expensive - $0.65 each) T&B insulated fast-on type connectors
and an Ideal crimping tool (not expensive as crimpers go - about $50).
A couple days ago I found a #22 ground wire that simply didn't conduct.
I removed it from the plane and sliced away insulation near each end to
expose the wire just before the connectors and determined which one
wasn't conducting. It looked fine. The wires were just visible
sticking out of the spade lug end and I could touch them directly with
my continuity tester, but they weren't connected to the rest of the wire.
Using a dremel tool, I removed the plastic covering and part of the
crimp. A little bit of the insulation extended into the part of the
barrel that crimps the copper wire. Apparently what happened was that
the act of crimping it cut thru the wire, but NOT thru the insulation.
The connector was held on by the insulation. That tefzel is pretty tough
stuff.
I made a new wire and got things working, but I have to wonder if more
of my wires aren't in the same or nearly the same condition. Am I doing
something wrong here or was this probably just a 1 in a 1000 fluke? Do
I need to check the connections that seem to be working? If so, how?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Electrical system
Message 7
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Subject: | Lightspeed spark plug wires |
I am not mounting my ignition coils on top of my engine, so the spark
plug wires I got with the Lightspeed unit aren't the right lengths. Are
these ordinary automotive sparkplug wires or something special? How
does one get wires of non-standard lengths? I emailed Klaus but have
not received an answer.
Thanks,
----
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Lightspeed spark plug wires |
Tom,
I had an identical situation. I returned the supplied wires along with my specs
for the replacements. Klaus fabricated the new wires at no charge.
Dick Jordan
RV 8A
N888BZ
-------------- Original message --------------
From: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> I am not mounting my ignition coils on top of my engine, so the spark
> plug wires I got with the Lightspeed unit aren't the right lengths. Are
> these ordinary automotive sparkplug wires or something special? How
> does one get wires of non-standard lengths? I emailed Klaus but have
> not received an answer.
>
> Thanks,
> ----
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
>
>
>
>
<html><body>
<DIV>Tom,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> I had an identical situation. I returned the supplied wires along
with my specs for the replacements. Klaus fabricated the new wires at no
charge.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Dick Jordan</DIV>
<DIV>RV 8A</DIV>
<DIV>N888BZ</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
arch &
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
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