Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:23 AM - Re: Thermoelectric Generators (jetboy)
2. 03:44 AM - Re: GNS430W Installation Manual Rev status? (Steve Glasgow)
3. 04:31 AM - Re: How to check and alternator?? (Matt Reeves)
4. 07:57 AM - Re: Re: Thermoelectric Generators (Richard E. Tasker)
5. 09:08 AM - 60A Buss fuse attached to baffling? (Tim Lewis)
6. 10:41 AM - Re: 60A Buss fuse attached to baffling? (Bob McCallum)
7. 11:54 PM - Rohs (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Thermoelectric Generators |
Dick,, i dont see the link?
--------
Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=132318#132318
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: GNS430W Installation Manual Rev status? |
Revision B is the latest I have.
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: How to check and alternator?? |
Hi Bob !!
Thanks for the help and suggestions !! I really appreciate you and all I learn
from you.
So, I did exactly as you said, and you are 100% correct. I left on a bunch
of stuff for about 10 minutes, then started the plane and immediately noticed
the ammeter was slightly on the negative side, maybe reading about 4 negative
amps. The voltage read just under 15 volts - say 14.7 the whole time and stays
there but within about 3 minutes, the ammeter came back up to zero and stayed
there.
I wired the ammeter and external shunt as per Van's Aircraft instructions and
my brother Danny (which you've all heard from many times) says there are 2 other
ways (according to Dynon) to wire the ammeter which I might do.
I'm not sure of the best or correct way to wire the ammeter but at least now
I know my alternator is working perfectly and THAT makes me happy.
Maybe I should leave it alone since I now know exactly what it's reading.
Thanks for your input and suggestions.
Matt
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net> wrote:
At 09:24 PM 8/27/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>Thanks for messages.
>
>Here's the answer to your questions.
>
>I have a Chief Aircraft +/- 40 ammeter with a 40amp shunt.
>
>I think my alternator is 35 amps but can't remember - I'll have to look
>that up. I am running Nav lights, strobe lights, wig wag lights, and a
>full Garmin stack so I'm thinking I may need to upgrade my
>alternator. Will have to add that up before first flight to see the load.
>
>The ammeter has a positive and negative terminal on the back. The
>positive is connected to to the small screw on the shunt which also has a
>large screw on the same side which is wired directly to the main power bus
>which also splits to a wire between the master and starter relay. The
>negative side on the back of the ammeter is connected to the opposite
>small screw on the shunt which also has a large screw which is wired
>through a 60amp circuit breaker to the main power bus.
>
>Kinda hard to explain without a picture. I followed the Bingeles book
>when I wired it up a few years back so maybe I messed something up.
>
>I do know that the volt meter reads barely under 14 volts with the engine
>running.
>
>Thanks for the help!!!!
The -zero+ reading ammeter is a BATTERY ammeter. When things
are running normally (alternator carrying ship's loads and
battery fully charged) then it SHOULD read at or near zero.
Turn some things on with the engine not running. Let them run
of the battery for 10 minutes or so. The ammeter should be
showing a (-) value - energy is coming out of the battery.
Take a voltmeter reading.
Now, start the engine and turn the alternator on. Note the bus
voltage. We would LIKE to see 14.2 to 14.6 volts but 13.8 or 13.9
would still charge the battery.
After the alternator comes on, if you see a rise in bus voltage,
then the alternator IS working to some degree. Its set point may
be too low . . . but it is working. Now the ammeter should show
a decided (+) reading - energy is being stuffed back into the
battery. Turn all the accessories off and observe the ammeter
which should begin to move back toward zero indicating that the
battery is topped off.
For the moment, nothing you've written suggests that the system
is seriously malfunctioning. It may need adjustment of voltage.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Thermoelectric Generators |
Neither do I... Don't know what happened - operator error I guess ;-) .
Here it is: http://www.hi-z.com/
Dick
jetboy wrote:
>
>Dick,, i dont see the link?
>
>--------
>Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
>
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Message 5
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Subject: | 60A Buss fuse attached to baffling? |
I'm considering protecting my alternator wiring with a Buss 60 Amp
current limiter (B&C, C903-1 base with C905-60 fuse). Does anybody know
if those devices can take the heat/vibration associated with being
mounted on the baffling, right near the alternator? That location would
provide fuse protection to almost the entire length of alternator
wiring, but is in a high heat/vibration environment.
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 900 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: 60A Buss fuse attached to baffling? |
Tim;
The source of energy which puts the alternator "B" lead at risk is the
battery. Therefore this fuse goes at the battery end of the wire not the
alternator end. The alternator is not capable of delivering much greater
than it's rated current, whereas if the alternator shorts the battery can
deliver several hundred amps into the fault.
Bob McC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Lewis" <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 12:08 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: 60A Buss fuse attached to baffling?
>
> I'm considering protecting my alternator wiring with a Buss 60 Amp
> current limiter (B&C, C903-1 base with C905-60 fuse). Does anybody know
> if those devices can take the heat/vibration associated with being
> mounted on the baffling, right near the alternator? That location would
> provide fuse protection to almost the entire length of alternator
> wiring, but is in a high heat/vibration environment.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Lewis
>
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD -- 900 hrs
> RV-10 #40059 under construction
>
>
Message 7
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As one who works for one of those big suppliers of electronic equipment to
DOD I can tell you that there certainly have been problems with lead free
soldering of components. The biggest one is called "tin whiskers". Over
time the large amount of tin used in the lead-free process tends to migrate
from place to place on the circuit boards (in microscopic traces, hence the
whisker notation) and shorts out electronic components, not a good thing!!!
I really wouldn't care if the Europeans wanted to further trash their
societies with all this "sky is falling" hysteria on every little so-called
pollutant, or their ridiculous affinity for political correctness and
socialism, if they weren't always trying to shove it down America's throat
as well.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Tampa Bay area
-----Original Message-----
From: "S. Ramirez" <simon@synchronousdesign.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Lead-free soldering?
As such, defense contractors have qualified lead-free finishes and soldering
and are making military equipment with no lead. There has been a learning
curve,
Simon Ramirez, Aerocanard Builder
LEZ N-44LZ
Oviedo, FL 32765 USA
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