---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 09/02/07: 7 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:23 AM - Re: Thermoelectric Generators (jetboy) 2. 03:44 AM - Re: GNS430W Installation Manual Rev status? (Steve Glasgow) 3. 04:31 AM - Re: How to check and alternator?? (Matt Reeves) 4. 07:57 AM - Re: Re: Thermoelectric Generators (Richard E. Tasker) 5. 09:08 AM - 60A Buss fuse attached to baffling? (Tim Lewis) 6. 10:41 AM - Re: 60A Buss fuse attached to baffling? (Bob McCallum) 7. 11:54 PM - Rohs (DEAN PSIROPOULOS) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:23:59 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Thermoelectric Generators From: "jetboy" Dick,, i dont see the link? -------- Ralph - CH701 / 2200a Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=132318#132318 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 03:44:36 AM PST US From: "Steve Glasgow" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: GNS430W Installation Manual Rev status? Revision B is the latest I have. Steve Glasgow-Cappy N123SG RV-8 Cappy's Toy ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 04:31:56 AM PST US From: Matt Reeves Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: How to check and alternator?? Hi Bob !! Thanks for the help and suggestions !! I really appreciate you and all I learn from you. So, I did exactly as you said, and you are 100% correct. I left on a bunch of stuff for about 10 minutes, then started the plane and immediately noticed the ammeter was slightly on the negative side, maybe reading about 4 negative amps. The voltage read just under 15 volts - say 14.7 the whole time and stays there but within about 3 minutes, the ammeter came back up to zero and stayed there. I wired the ammeter and external shunt as per Van's Aircraft instructions and my brother Danny (which you've all heard from many times) says there are 2 other ways (according to Dynon) to wire the ammeter which I might do. I'm not sure of the best or correct way to wire the ammeter but at least now I know my alternator is working perfectly and THAT makes me happy. Maybe I should leave it alone since I now know exactly what it's reading. Thanks for your input and suggestions. Matt "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote: At 09:24 PM 8/27/2007 -0700, you wrote: >Thanks for messages. > >Here's the answer to your questions. > >I have a Chief Aircraft +/- 40 ammeter with a 40amp shunt. > >I think my alternator is 35 amps but can't remember - I'll have to look >that up. I am running Nav lights, strobe lights, wig wag lights, and a >full Garmin stack so I'm thinking I may need to upgrade my >alternator. Will have to add that up before first flight to see the load. > >The ammeter has a positive and negative terminal on the back. The >positive is connected to to the small screw on the shunt which also has a >large screw on the same side which is wired directly to the main power bus >which also splits to a wire between the master and starter relay. The >negative side on the back of the ammeter is connected to the opposite >small screw on the shunt which also has a large screw which is wired >through a 60amp circuit breaker to the main power bus. > >Kinda hard to explain without a picture. I followed the Bingeles book >when I wired it up a few years back so maybe I messed something up. > >I do know that the volt meter reads barely under 14 volts with the engine >running. > >Thanks for the help!!!! The -zero+ reading ammeter is a BATTERY ammeter. When things are running normally (alternator carrying ship's loads and battery fully charged) then it SHOULD read at or near zero. Turn some things on with the engine not running. Let them run of the battery for 10 minutes or so. The ammeter should be showing a (-) value - energy is coming out of the battery. Take a voltmeter reading. Now, start the engine and turn the alternator on. Note the bus voltage. We would LIKE to see 14.2 to 14.6 volts but 13.8 or 13.9 would still charge the battery. After the alternator comes on, if you see a rise in bus voltage, then the alternator IS working to some degree. Its set point may be too low . . . but it is working. Now the ammeter should show a decided (+) reading - energy is being stuffed back into the battery. Turn all the accessories off and observe the ammeter which should begin to move back toward zero indicating that the battery is topped off. For the moment, nothing you've written suggests that the system is seriously malfunctioning. It may need adjustment of voltage. Bob . . . --------------------------------- Luggage? GPS? Comic books? Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search. ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:57:14 AM PST US From: "Richard E. Tasker" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Thermoelectric Generators Neither do I... Don't know what happened - operator error I guess ;-) . Here it is: http://www.hi-z.com/ Dick jetboy wrote: > >Dick,, i dont see the link? > >-------- >Ralph - CH701 / 2200a > -- Please Note: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however, that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced. -- ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 09:08:16 AM PST US From: Tim Lewis Subject: AeroElectric-List: 60A Buss fuse attached to baffling? I'm considering protecting my alternator wiring with a Buss 60 Amp current limiter (B&C, C903-1 base with C905-60 fuse). Does anybody know if those devices can take the heat/vibration associated with being mounted on the baffling, right near the alternator? That location would provide fuse protection to almost the entire length of alternator wiring, but is in a high heat/vibration environment. Thanks, Tim Lewis -- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 900 hrs RV-10 #40059 under construction ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 10:41:52 AM PST US From: "Bob McCallum" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: 60A Buss fuse attached to baffling? Tim; The source of energy which puts the alternator "B" lead at risk is the battery. Therefore this fuse goes at the battery end of the wire not the alternator end. The alternator is not capable of delivering much greater than it's rated current, whereas if the alternator shorts the battery can deliver several hundred amps into the fault. Bob McC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Lewis" Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 12:08 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: 60A Buss fuse attached to baffling? > > I'm considering protecting my alternator wiring with a Buss 60 Amp > current limiter (B&C, C903-1 base with C905-60 fuse). Does anybody know > if those devices can take the heat/vibration associated with being > mounted on the baffling, right near the alternator? That location would > provide fuse protection to almost the entire length of alternator > wiring, but is in a high heat/vibration environment. > > Thanks, > > Tim Lewis > > -- > Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) > RV-6A N47TD -- 900 hrs > RV-10 #40059 under construction > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 11:54:57 PM PST US From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" Subject: AeroElectric-List: Rohs As one who works for one of those big suppliers of electronic equipment to DOD I can tell you that there certainly have been problems with lead free soldering of components. The biggest one is called "tin whiskers". Over time the large amount of tin used in the lead-free process tends to migrate from place to place on the circuit boards (in microscopic traces, hence the whisker notation) and shorts out electronic components, not a good thing!!! I really wouldn't care if the Europeans wanted to further trash their societies with all this "sky is falling" hysteria on every little so-called pollutant, or their ridiculous affinity for political correctness and socialism, if they weren't always trying to shove it down America's throat as well. Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM Tampa Bay area -----Original Message----- From: "S. Ramirez" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Lead-free soldering? As such, defense contractors have qualified lead-free finishes and soldering and are making military equipment with no lead. There has been a learning curve, Simon Ramirez, Aerocanard Builder LEZ N-44LZ Oviedo, FL 32765 USA ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message aeroelectric-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/aeroelectric-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/aeroelectric-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.