AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Thu 10/04/07


Total Messages Posted: 19



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:06 AM - Re: "scratchy" transmission (luckymacy)
     2. 05:50 AM - Re: Fuse panel location (Ken)
     3. 07:25 AM - Re: Fuse panel location ()
     4. 08:25 AM - Re: Fuse panel location (Bob Kuc)
     5. 08:46 AM - Re: Fuse panel location (Ernest Christley)
     6. 08:59 AM - Re: Re: Schematic drawing software (John Morgensen)
     7. 09:57 AM - Wire (Michael Duran)
     8. 10:50 AM - Re: Simple question re the B&C Contactors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     9. 11:40 AM - Re: Wire (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    10. 11:48 AM - Re: Fuse panel location (Michael W Stewart)
    11. 12:03 PM - Re: Wire (Dj Merrill)
    12. 12:45 PM - Re: Fuse panel location (Greg Young)
    13. 02:36 PM - Re: Wire (Doug Gray)
    14. 07:03 PM - Re: Wire specifications (cnpeters)
    15. 07:57 PM - Re: Re: Wire specifications (Stein Bruch)
    16. 08:35 PM - WTB Crystal Radio (Dan Billingsley)
    17. 08:54 PM - Re: Wire specifications (Jeff Page)
    18. 09:14 PM - Fuses vs. Circuit Breakers (AlRice)
    19. 10:16 PM - Re: Fuses vs. Circuit Breakers (B Tomm)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:06:12 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: "scratchy" transmission
    From: "luckymacy" <luckymacy@comcast.net>
    Wouldn't the fact that it makes no difference whether the second headset is plugged in or not eliminate that source of noise. Further there is an intercom off, intercom isolate and intercom switch so not sure what you mean or if you are completely accurate in your product description. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138025#138025


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:50:10 AM PST US
    From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
    Subject: Re: Fuse panel location
    Hi David I can't reach any of my fuses in flight even though they are behind my panel. The downside I see for you is the number of wires you have to bring forward from each fuse to switches and things. You might have to upsize a few wires to cater to voltage drop. Another minor concern might be picking up a bit of audio noise if you run intercom and radio power in the same bundle as strobe or wig wag light power. With some headsets I seem to have some noise even with everything (including the forest of tabs ground block) on the firewall but at least it is not noticeable in cruise. Even with a forest of tabs we share grounds from there to the alternator and battery anyway but those are heavy conductors I guess. Makes me wonder how they keep the radio so quiet in cars despite ignition and injector pulses... Ken david stroud wrote: > >Hello to all. I'm new here on the list and have a question >about locating my fuse panel. > >My older version of the AeroElectric connection and even books >by Tony Bengelis suggest that an intelligent choice for a fuse panel >location could indeed be farther than the reach of the pilot, since, if >the fuse blew there is little likelyhood of inflight repair to the >offending part anyway. This scenario is assuming good choices >have been made for wire and fuse sizing, length of travel etc. >and that certain circuits might need pullable breakers front and >center anyway. > >Although the Fairchild 51 is a large plane, the panel is relatively small >and I'm trying to keep things simple and as authentic looking as >possible. My choice for the fuse panel location would in fact be about >12' behind the pilots seat in the "mechanical" room housing batteries >and the engine air start system. > >Any comments to the pros and cons would be much appreciated. > > >David Stroud Ottawa, Canada >C-FDWS Christavia ( 400+ hrs. and no sparks ) >Fairchild 51 under construction > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:25:17 AM PST US
    Subject: Fuse panel location
    From: <longg@pjm.com>
    I too have thought about fuse location. I am not sure why people always want their CB's sticking out in front of their nose, but are willing to hide fuse boxes behind seats, somewhere under the panel etc. Probably that looks kool. Why not hide the CB's under the panel where you can feel them and reset as necessary? If I need to change a fuse, I don't want to stand on my head with my ears between the pedals to do it. I have never read anything supporting noise vs. the location of a fuse box where good wiring practices are involved. If that is in fact true, it is surely different for every single installation. Why not use the example of many an automobile and set the fuse box just behind the panel on the right side where a panel cover can be build for easy strait forward access. I always loved the jobs where the panel cover was just inside the door jam on the side of the panel. If your panel is space challenged, another option might be on the panel cover mounted face up perhaps using a door with a mirror so you can easily see the condition of each fuse without breaking your neck. I will use fuse panels, but I refuse to burry them. While location may be of no use to myself in flight, if I have a passenger with me, they can always assist with finding the trouble maker if they can get to the panel. gl -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 8:48 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fuse panel location Hi David I can't reach any of my fuses in flight even though they are behind my panel. The downside I see for you is the number of wires you have to bring forward from each fuse to switches and things. You might have to upsize a few wires to cater to voltage drop. Another minor concern might be picking up a bit of audio noise if you run intercom and radio power in the same bundle as strobe or wig wag light power. With some headsets I seem to have some noise even with everything (including the forest of tabs ground block) on the firewall but at least it is not noticeable in cruise. Even with a forest of tabs we share grounds from there to the alternator and battery anyway but those are heavy conductors I guess. Makes me wonder how they keep the radio so quiet in cars despite ignition and injector pulses... Ken david stroud wrote: >--> <dstroud@storm.ca> > >Hello to all. I'm new here on the list and have a question about >locating my fuse panel. > >My older version of the AeroElectric connection and even books >by Tony Bengelis suggest that an intelligent choice for a fuse panel >location could indeed be farther than the reach of the pilot, since, if >the fuse blew there is little likelyhood of inflight repair to the >offending part anyway. This scenario is assuming good choices >have been made for wire and fuse sizing, length of travel etc. >and that certain circuits might need pullable breakers front and >center anyway. > >Although the Fairchild 51 is a large plane, the panel is relatively >small and I'm trying to keep things simple and as authentic looking as >possible. My choice for the fuse panel location would in fact be about >12' behind the pilots seat in the "mechanical" room housing batteries >and the engine air start system. > >Any comments to the pros and cons would be much appreciated. > > >David Stroud Ottawa, Canada >C-FDWS Christavia ( 400+ hrs. and no sparks ) >Fairchild 51 under construction > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:25:29 AM PST US
    From: "Bob Kuc" <bkuc1@verizon.net>
    Subject: Fuse panel location
    When I was building my velocity, I built my fuse box that was hinged at the bottom of the panel. A little hook, kept it up. Just release the hook, and the fuse holder drops down. Easy to see, easy to get to and easy to change a fuse, if need be. You can offset the hinge forward to clear any back of switches. That way, you do not need to build any panels, and if need be, alto not sure why, you could even probably supposedly change the in flight. However, the velocity was not in a fly mode before I sold it so am not sure how practical it might really be, but it sure made changing fuses easy when I was testing and blowing fuses. YMMV Bob Kuc << I too have thought about fuse location. I am not sure why people always want their CB's sticking out in front of their nose, but are willing to hide fuse boxes behind seats, somewhere under the panel etc. Probably that looks kool. Why not hide the CB's under the panel where you can feel them and reset as necessary? >>


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:46:45 AM PST US
    From: Ernest Christley <echristley@nc.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Fuse panel location
    longg@pjm.com wrote: > I will use fuse panels, but I refuse to burry them. While location may > be of no use to myself in flight, if I have a passenger with me, they > can always assist with finding the trouble maker if they can get to the > panel. > > gl > The best solution I've seen for traditional configurations is to have the fuseblock on a hinged panel that will swing down from the main instrument panel. Tucks away nicely in flight, but conveniently swings down for maintenance. Occupies nearly zero space that would be needed for instruments. I, OTOH, have other options. The Dyke Delta has extensive strakes, so I've taken the opportunity to spread things sideways. http://ernest.isa-geek.org/Delta/Pictures/AvionicsBay.jpg http://ernest.isa-geek.org/Delta/Pictures/AvionicsBayAndPanel.jpg The switch panel on the right flips down and hides most of the fuses behind it. The small fuse panel on the left is just for audio equipment...common ground and all that.


    Message 6


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    Time: 08:59:34 AM PST US
    From: John Morgensen <john@morgensen.com>
    Subject: Re: Schematic drawing software
    I have TurboCAD v8 and there is a 1.5mb tutorial in .pdf format. Contact me off list if you want it. It was in a folder on the CD labeled, "documentation". John Morgensen Terry Phillips wrote: > > Thanks, Harley > > I had already looked at the tutorial file you posted. Unfortunately, it seems to be about lighting for viewing 3-d objects. What I am hoping for is a tutorial on basic 2-d drawing so I can modify and adapt Bob's schematics. > > I'd just as soon avoid paying 5x as much to IMSI for the tutorial as I paid for the software in the 1st place. Plus, I would presume that the tutorial is for the current version, 14, as opposed to version 10 that I purchased. the version might not make any difference, but I don't know how to find out w/o paying $50. > > Terry > > -------- > Terry Phillips > Corvallis, MT > ttp44&lt;at&gt;rkymtn.net > Hope to begin building in '06 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137997#137997 > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 09:57:16 AM PST US
    From: Michael Duran <mgdurand@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Wire
    ======= Allow me to suggest that M22759 Tefzel from the popular suppliers to the OBAM aircraft industry is the finest wire we've used in GA aircraft to date, is widely available and reasonably priced. Praying over the Concise Dictionary for Wire is probably not a good use of your time beyond expanding your intellectual horizons on the universe of wire types. Bob . . . ======= Is that the stuff that is "Flammable producing copious amount of Dense toxic smoke (96%+ density) when it burns rendering it virtually impossible for flight crew to see their flight instruments." ? Not that I would be able to afford/obtain anything better, but I'm guessing now that's why my flight instructor told me that if I have an electrical fire in-air. that I have a poor chance of making it to the ground. Michael RV-7a panel building with tefzel


    Message 8


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    Time: 10:50:32 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Simple question re the B&C Contactors
    At 06:55 PM 10/3/2007 -0400, you wrote: > >It's apparent to me that the jumper(2) and the diode(s) on the S701-1 and >-2 contactors can be shifted between terminals to reverse the functions of >same terminals. >Can someone please confirm that? Thanks. Correct. Bob . . .


    Message 9


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    Time: 11:40:43 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Wire
    At 09:54 AM 10/4/2007 -0700, you wrote: >======= > > Allow me to suggest that M22759 Tefzel from the popular > suppliers to the OBAM aircraft industry is the finest > wire we've used in GA aircraft to date, is widely available > and reasonably priced. Praying over the Concise Dictionary > for Wire is probably not a good use of your time beyond > expanding your intellectual horizons on the universe of > wire types. > > Bob . . . >======= > >Is that the stuff that is "Flammable producing copious amount of Dense >toxic smoke (96%+ density) when it burns rendering it virtually impossible >for flight crew to see their flight instruments." ? > >Not that I would be able to afford/obtain anything better, but I'm >guessing now that's why my flight instructor told me that if I have an >electrical fire in-air. that I have a poor chance of making it to the ground. Now, what is the LIKLIHOOD of you experiencing an electrical fire with unrestrained propagation? I've had a number of responses to the statement you quoted above . . . mostly private where the writers have cited a litany of net-chatter by well meaning but generally unqualified evaluators of relative risk. I'm getting ready to be out of town until Monday and don't have time to respond to this in detail . . . but I'm planning on it. The short answer is: There are NO insulating materials that produce pleasant smoke when they burn. Rubber, PVC, nylon, nylon over PVC, or Tefzel. All of the chicken-little writers tend to latch onto some perfectly valid fact (density of smoke, rise of CO2 in the air, alar on the apples, silicone in the boobs, etc) and then fancifully translate the fact into a significant risk to our health and well-being. Further, after having "made their case" they're more than willing to legislate the expenditure of a lot of somebody else's money to rectify the situation and secure us a place in perpetual Utopia. These are probably all very nice people to play bridge with, or have over for a BBQ but they do not have a grasp on the Big Picture and even less grasp on the science. Last time I checked, the accident investigators at Beech were unable to recall ANY serious incident ending in badly wrinkled aircraft or people where type of insulation )or even an electrically initiated fire) contributed to a series of events in an accident they investigated. Their archives of information go all the way back to cotton-over-rubber wires in model 18 and 17 aircraft. In cases where there was electrically initiated damage (of which there are MANY) that caused a maintenance event, type of insulation on the wires was never an issue. Now, if we took the Chicken-Littles seriously, we'd have to eliminate fuel and lubricants from our aircraft. Under the right conditions, these too pose great risk to occupants of aircraft from fire. The point is that capable systems engineering does look at the Big Picture for wires and many other potential hazards. Most folks have correctly deduced that wires are protected by circuit breakers and/or fuses for the express purpose of preventing a fire. Likewise, fuels and oils are suitably contained. Experience in small aircraft going back 100+ years has suggested that the folk doing this work have learned their lessons well and continue to refine their art and science. Individuals who would ask you to join them in their personal worry du jour on wires (or any other anxiety driven discussion) need a more relaxing hobby. Invite them over for a six pack or an evening around the BBQ grill . . . perhaps you can distract them from their worries for at least a little while . . . Having said that, there ARE some exotic insulations that should not be used and the Big Guys have been caught with their pants down because they were sucked into the "lighter wire bundles" vortex. But that does not included GA light aircraft. Therefore, examples of what has transpired in an Air Transport Category a/c has little or no significance for our reasoning because we HAVE been using the most user and owner friendly insulation for wires (Tefzel) for three decades. Bob . . .


    Message 10


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    Time: 11:48:24 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Fuse panel location
    From: Michael W Stewart <mike.stewart@us.ibm.com>
    This works pretty good on the RV-8 Hinged access panel in the fwd baggage compartment with fuse blocks. Very convenient. Best, Mike http://www.mstewart.net/super8/accesspanels/index.htm Ernest Christley <echristley@nc.rr .com> To Sent by: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com owner-aeroelectri cc c-list-server@mat ronics.com Subj ect Re: AeroElectric-List: Fuse pane l location 10/04/2007 11:22 AM Please respond to aeroelectric-list @matronics.com <echristley@nc.rr.com> longg@pjm.com wrote: > I will use fuse panels, but I refuse to burry them. While location ma y > be of no use to myself in flight, if I have a passenger with me, they > can always assist with finding the trouble maker if they can get to t he > panel. > > gl > The best solution I've seen for traditional configurations is to have the fuseblock on a hinged panel that will swing down from the main instrument panel. Tucks away nicely in flight, but conveniently swings down for maintenance. Occupies nearly zero space that would be needed for instruments. I, OTOH, have other options. The Dyke Delta has extensive strakes, so I've taken the opportunity to spread things sideways. http://ernest.isa-geek.org/Delta/Pictures/AvionicsBay.jpg http://ernest.isa-geek.org/Delta/Pictures/AvionicsBayAndPanel.jpg The switch panel on the right flips down and hides most of the fuses behind it. The small fuse panel on the left is just for audio equipment...common ground and all that. ======================== ============ ======================== ============ ======================== ============


    Message 11


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    Time: 12:03:26 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wire
    From: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
    Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > until Monday and don't have time to respond to this > in detail . . . but I'm planning on it. The short > answer is: That was your -short- answer? *wink* :-) -Dj do not archive -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ http://econ.duke.edu/~deej/sportsman/ "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005


    Message 12


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    Time: 12:45:51 PM PST US
    From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
    Subject: Fuse panel location
    I'm doing just that except on the left side. They will have an access panel in the sidewall. They are screwed directly to the fuselage skin with dimples and CS screws. I have added a 12-slot and 2, 6-slot blocks (aux & bat busses) since the picture was taken. I've got fuses for EVERYTHING. Regards, Greg Young - Houston (DWH) RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A > -----Original Message----- > > Why not use the example of many an automobile and set the > fuse box just behind the panel on the right side where a > panel cover can be build for easy strait forward access. I > always loved the jobs where the panel cover was just inside > the door jam on the side of the panel. >


    Message 13


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    Time: 02:36:10 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wire
    From: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
    On Thu, 2007-10-04 at 13:27 -0600, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > There are NO insulating materials that produce > pleasant smoke when they burn. Rubber, PVC, > nylon, nylon over PVC, or Tefzel. See:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low_Smoke_Zero_Halogen Zero Halogen cables are mandated for the big black boats and grey funnel ships I am involved with. Tefzel is not Halogen free. Polypropolene is a pretty good insulating material but heavier in comparable electerical terms and not as tough as tefzel. It is however more user friendly than tefzel and much more user friendly than teflon. Rest assured as soon as there is an event where the insulation material is attributed to the cause of many aircraft deaths we will see ZH wiring mandated. Hmm... tefzel is a registered trademark of which company now? Then again perhaps it will not matter how may die. Doug Gray


    Message 14


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    Time: 07:03:00 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wire specifications
    From: "cnpeters" <say.ahh1@verizon.net>
    Bob (and anyone else who has wire length data for their RV), So you had more than enough ordering 100 feet of each color and gauge you mention below, or were these multi 100' spools? If I was to simplify the number of gauges to keep in stock, what would you recommend? Aside from some situations (alternator, etc), would 18 and 22G cover a typical RV? I ask, as I am getting ready to place an order and want to try and cover the whole project (RV-9A, Dynon glass EMS/EFIS, setup for VFR day and night). Thanks, Carl [/quote] Call up Wiremasters. The sell in bulk and don't mind homebuilders. I don't have their number or my receipt handy, but I think it was about $150 I spent. I got enough spools of multi-colored, tinned-copper Tefzel to wire my whole airplane and have enough left over to do most of the next. I may have been able to find quality PVC for less, but I would probably had to go surplus. I bought 100' spools of 22AWG (red, green, white, black), 20AWG (red, green, white, black), 18AWG (red, green, white, black), 16AWG(white), 12AWG(white). I also got 50' spools of 8AWG(white) and 4AWG(white). That covers everything but the battery cable, which I covered with welding cable. The multi-color isn't an absolute need, but is nice to have. It cuts down on some of the labeling requirements, especially when bundles of related wires are twisted. Just chuck one end in the drill, pinch the other end and squeeze the trigger until the bundles starts shrinking. For instance, the magnetometer connects to the Dynon EFIS with a power, ground and two signal lines. Red, black, white and green (respectively) and it doesn't really need a label at all; though it does get a big "magnetometer" sticker for good measure. The rack of wire is incredibly useful when the time comes. Just run the wires and not worry about estimating how much of each is needed. It's a good item for a builder group to have. Pay for what you use, and then pass it on to the next guy. Reload with a multi-hundred foot spool when one runs out.[/quote] -------- Carl Peters RV-9A wings Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138197#138197


    Message 15


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    Time: 07:57:14 PM PST US
    From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
    Subject: Re: Wire specifications
    That's an awfull lot of some of the wire, but probably tight on a few others. Couple of suggestions: All power wires red (down to about AWG14 which is the largest size most people stock in colors), Ground wires black, lighting wires yellow, signal wires white, etc... Pick a scheme and stick with it. In our shop we pretty much do that as standard practice. Also 50' of AWG8?!?! Normally on an a 2 seat RV you'd see about 4-6' total! AWG20 you'll hardly use at all outside of the panel, and then the amount can vary dramatically depending on what you wire. AWG16 is also something you may use a lot of or use almost none of...depending on equipment...same with AWG14. AWG18 and AWG22 are the big ones! The suggestion presented previously about twisting the Dynon wires brings up another point....SHIELDED WIRES! Most of the EFIS's with remote mag's recommend them to be shielded (especially Dynon). If you're going to install a dynon or AFS unit it would be wise to use shielded wire now while you can instead of trying to fix the gremlins later. Same goes with audio wiring. The jacks, radio, intercom, etc.. should be wired with shielded wire, and lots of avionics also require shielded wire. I'm a fan of people buying lots of wire :), but the best approach is to conceptually decide what is going to be in the plane (lighting, avioincs, engine, batteries) and then decide. Your requirements may vary by literally many hundreds of feet just by the avionics alone. Also, if you don't wire up your own panel, then you'll need much less wire. I hate to tell you this, but no matter how much stuff you buy up front in your initial shotgun blast, you'll still likely be left needing something you forgot....it's just part of building - UPS loves it! Just my 2 cents as usual Cheers, Stein PS, excuse the typos...I'm still typing with one hand. -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of cnpeters Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 9:01 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Wire specifications Bob (and anyone else who has wire length data for their RV), So you had more than enough ordering 100 feet of each color and gauge you mention below, or were these multi 100' spools? If I was to simplify the number of gauges to keep in stock, what would you recommend? Aside from some situations (alternator, etc), would 18 and 22G cover a typical RV? I ask, as I am getting ready to place an order and want to try and cover the whole project (RV-9A, Dynon glass EMS/EFIS, setup for VFR day and night). Thanks, Carl [/quote] Call up Wiremasters. The sell in bulk and don't mind homebuilders. I don't have their number or my receipt handy, but I think it was about $150 I spent. I got enough spools of multi-colored, tinned-copper Tefzel to wire my whole airplane and have enough left over to do most of the next. I may have been able to find quality PVC for less, but I would probably had to go surplus. I bought 100' spools of 22AWG (red, green, white, black), 20AWG (red, green, white, black), 18AWG (red, green, white, black), 16AWG(white), 12AWG(white). I also got 50' spools of 8AWG(white) and 4AWG(white). That covers everything but the battery cable, which I covered with welding cable. The multi-color isn't an absolute need, but is nice to have. It cuts down on some of the labeling requirements, especially when bundles of related wires are twisted. Just chuck one end in the drill, pinch the other end and squeeze the trigger until the bundles starts shrinking. For instance, the magnetometer connects to the Dynon EFIS with a power, ground and two signal lines. Red, black, white and green (respectively) and it doesn't really need a label at all; though it does get a big "magnetometer" sticker for good measure. The rack of wire is incredibly useful when the time comes. Just run the wires and not worry about estimating how much of each is needed. It's a good item for a builder group to have. Pay for what you use, and then pass it on to the next guy. Reload with a multi-hundred foot spool when one runs out.[/quote] -------- Carl Peters RV-9A wings Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138197#138197


    Message 16


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    Time: 08:35:46 PM PST US
    From: Dan Billingsley <dan@azshowersolutions.com>
    Subject: WTB Crystal Radio
    I know this is an odd request, however, I am a high school electronics teacher by day and a plane builder by night :>) I thought this might be a good place to ask if any of you electronics tinkerers might have crystal radio sets jammed into the back of a closet that you would like to get rid of. I am trying to round up about 50 of them or the components. The difficult part to find in quantity is the variable air capacitors (365pfd or close). My e-mail is dan at azshowersolutions dot com Thanks, I live in Mesa, AZ Dan


    Message 17


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    Time: 08:54:05 PM PST US
    From: Jeff Page <jpx@qenesis.com>
    Subject: Re: Wire specifications
    Ok, Tefzel wire it is. Wire Masters and Stein both appear to have useful information on their web sites and will probably ship to Canada. Thanks. Looking under the instrument panel of my 1970 Cessna 172, I had believed that all aircraft wire was white. Of course this has made it extremely difficult to follow a particular wire somewhere. I had planned to use a little spray paint to identify wires, but looking at the web sites, the Tefzel wire is available in a nice rainbow of colors. So should I purchase a variety of colours and end up with too much of some colors and not enough of others, or should I stick with my original plan and buy white and spray tracer colors on it ? If so, how would I determine that the paint would not degrade the insulation over time ? Thanks again ! Jeff Page > Allow me to suggest that M22759 Tefzel from the popular > suppliers to the OBAM aircraft industry is the finest > wire we've used in GA aircraft to date, is widely available > and reasonably priced. Praying over the Concise Dictionary > of Wire is probably not a good use of your time beyond > expanding your intellectual horizons on the universe of > wire types.


    Message 18


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    Time: 09:14:41 PM PST US
    Subject: Fuses vs. Circuit Breakers
    From: "AlRice" <Allen@AllenRice.net>
    In reading several posts, I've noticed that most builders seem to prefer fuses rather than circuit breakers. Can someone tell me the advantages of one over the other? Thanks, -------- Al Rice Skybolt 260 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138229#138229


    Message 19


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    Time: 10:16:13 PM PST US
    From: "B Tomm" <fvalarm@rapidnet.net>
    Subject: Fuses vs. Circuit Breakers
    For a typical RV, fuse blocks are cheaper, easier to install, easily provides individual fuses per device that require power, and the fuse block itself does double duty as a buss. In other words, each radio, GPS etc gets its own fuse. You will still need a few dedicated breakers for things such as Alternator and things you may want to reset once in flight. Such as flap motors which may trip due to over current due to heavy load because you selected flaps down at too high an airspeed. Known causes of trips like these may be candidates for ONE TIME in flight reset. Some people put the autopilot on a pullable breaker so that it can be shut down in flight. There may be other reasons for breakers but many like to go with fuses. Bevan RV7A Wiring -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AlRice Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 9:14 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Fuses vs. Circuit Breakers In reading several posts, I've noticed that most builders seem to prefer fuses rather than circuit breakers. Can someone tell me the advantages of one over the other? Thanks, -------- Al Rice Skybolt 260 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138229#138229




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