Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:03 AM - Re: Electrical Drawing Critisism Wanted (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 10:05 AM - Re: Electrical Drawing Critisism Wanted (The Kuffels)
3. 02:29 PM - Re: XM audio input (Jon Finley)
4. 03:13 PM - Re: XM audio input (Ron Quillin)
5. 05:18 PM - Re: XM audio input (Jon Finley)
6. 08:20 PM - Re: Z-19 ECU wiring question (Ken)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Drawing Critisism Wanted |
At 02:52 PM 10/25/2007 -0700, you wrote:
><david.m.gallagher@ge.com>
>
>Here is the drawing I have generated so far based on what I hope I have
>learned from this group and Bob's book. I am building a Jabiru 3300
>powered Zenith 601XL. I am trying to make it a fairly simple day/night
>VFR machine. Electrical items planned include Dynon FlightDek 180, Garmin
>296, Com, Xponder, Trutrack wing leveler, intercom, fuel boost pump and
>nav/landing/cockpit lights. If anybody here has a few minutes, please
>shoot holes in my overall electrical schematic. It is a combination of a
>few different Z diagrams and other builder's sites, like Matt's zodiacxl.com.
>
>You may debate my choice of instruments if you wish, but I am mainly
>trying to make sure I didn't do anything stupid with the electrons and get
>to the point of passing the smoke test. I started this exercise knowing
>virtually nothing so I guess this is a final exam of sorts. Now fire away.
I'd recommend that you use the OV protection
relay to open the AC output from the alternator
by having it break one of the two blue leads.
This philosophy is illustrated in
http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z16M.pdf
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Problems are the price of progress. )
( Don't bring me anything but trouble. )
( Good news weakens me." )
( -Charles F. Kettering- )
----------------------------------------
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Drawing Critisism Wanted |
David,
Am of the opinion the use of the Dynon D-180, or any other EFIS
with internal battery backup, justifies a simplification to Bob's
method of feeding the Endurance Bus. In your diagram, remove the
Note 12 diode, remove the Avionics Master Switch and connect the
14AWG wire which fed the diode from the Main Bus to the unused
contact on the 1-3 E-Bus Alt Feed Switch.
This results in fewer parts and eliminates the voltage drop
across the diode along with the heat the diode generates. While
Bob specifies a very robust unit, the heat sensitive diode is
still a weak link compared to the other components in the path.
Now, come an electrical emergency (fire, trim runaway, A/P
failure, alternator runaway, etc.), you have one and only one
consistent action to take.. turn off the battery master.
Continue to fly the plane with the EFIS (and your GPS as backup).
At your leisure: 1) tell the EFIS and GPS you want them to
continue to operate on their internal battery power 2) turn off
everything fed by the Endurance Bus 3) switch the Endurance Bus
Alternate Feed to Battery Direct and 4) turn on each E-Bus load
one at a time and verify the item doesn't contribute to the problem.
Would also suggest the use of combined circuit breaker-switches
instead of the acres of breakers and separate switches of most
aircraft.
Fewer components, simpler procedures. Bob, what are the
negatives to this approach?
Tom Kuffel, AL7AU, CFI
Whitefish, MT
Building Sportsman
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
It sounds as though I'm in the same boat as Paul.
I think I almost understood your response Ron. Could you (or someone)
elaborate just a bit more??
Thanks,
Jon
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron
Quillin
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: XM audio input
A dual ~1K pot seems like a simple solution.
Outputs from the Terk to the top, CW, end of the pots, wipers to the
PMA inputs and pot CCW ends to common.
A "volume" control.
Use a log, audio, taper pot.
Ron Q.
At 08:35 10/24/2007, you wrote:
><Jeckenroth@NBN.NET>
>
>I have a Terk Commander XM installed in my RV9A with the audio into
>the unswitched music input of the audio panel (PMA 8000). The Terk
>Commander does not have a volume control as it is intended to be run
>through the car radio and utilize the volume control in the
>radio. I can control the volume by adjusting the individual
>controls on the headsets but this is not ideal. I would like a
>method of adjusting the volume between the XM output and the audio
>panel input. I am sure that I am not the first to confront this
>problem. When responding please keep in mind that I can follow
>instructions but I am not electronically gifted.
>
>Paul Eckenroth
7:54 PM
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
At 14:26 10/26/2007, you wrote:
>It sounds as though I'm in the same boat as Paul.
>
>I think I almost understood your response Ron. Could you (or someone)
>elaborate just a bit more??
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jon
My proposed solution made at least two assumptions:
1) the output from the external XM radio provides more than adequate
signal amplitude; plenty loud.
2) you have no issues affecting audio quality; ground loops,
impedance mismatch, stereo/mono issues.
One only needs to interrupt the existing signal connection from the
radio to the audio panel and insert a variable attenuator; aka volume
control. The catch, it only makes the signal softer; no gain.
The output from the external receiver is connected between the CW
(high) and CCW (common) terminals of the 'volume control'. The input
to the audio panel is connected between the center (wiper) terminal
and the CCW common terminal. Two, or dual, section control; one for
left and one for right channels.
Most any acceptable (to the user) control between a minimum of say 1k
up to around 10k with a log (audio) taper should be fine.
As always watch lead dress and strain relief for cables.
Ron Q.
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Thanks Ron. I think I'm with you now! :-)
Jon
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron
Quillin
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 4:12 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: XM audio input
At 14:26 10/26/2007, you wrote:
>It sounds as though I'm in the same boat as Paul.
>
>I think I almost understood your response Ron. Could you (or someone)
>elaborate just a bit more??
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jon
My proposed solution made at least two assumptions:
1) the output from the external XM radio provides more than adequate
signal amplitude; plenty loud.
2) you have no issues affecting audio quality; ground loops,
impedance mismatch, stereo/mono issues.
One only needs to interrupt the existing signal connection from the
radio to the audio panel and insert a variable attenuator; aka volume
control. The catch, it only makes the signal softer; no gain.
The output from the external receiver is connected between the CW
(high) and CCW (common) terminals of the 'volume control'. The input
to the audio panel is connected between the center (wiper) terminal
and the CCW common terminal. Two, or dual, section control; one for
left and one for right channels.
Most any acceptable (to the user) control between a minimum of say 1k
up to around 10k with a log (audio) taper should be fine.
As always watch lead dress and strain relief for cables.
Ron Q.
7:54 PM
7:54 PM
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Z-19 ECU wiring question |
Mike
I suspect the manufacturer will come up with a recommendation.
However my thinking would be 18 awg and 10 amps minimum for the
injectors but in fact I ran 14awg and 15 amp fuse on my subaru which
also powers the ecu and a couple of other minor things.
Don't know about your coils but you might want to measure what they
really draw for a few seconds on 12 or 14 volts. My two DIS coils will
draw about 7 amps each max steady so I also ran them with 14awg and a 15
amp fuse even though the average current is much less. I believe the car
had metric equivalent of almost 14awg and was also fused at 15 amps. I
did not want to risk that the high current pulses might eventually
weaken the fuse and I wanted minimal voltage drop. I'm sure that 16awg
would have been fine as well. Another consideration was that if a driver
shorts on I did not want the fuse to blow and also kill my second coil
since two cylinders working is better than none... At the time I wasn't
sure it the engine would windmill long enough to turn on my second
ignition but as it happens mine will windmill down to at least 40 knots.
With 4 coils that will really draw 9 amps when on continuously, I would
consider wiring them in pairs with a fuse for each pair.
Ken
mikef wrote:
>
>Hi,
>
>I am installing a Z-19 system for my Suzuki 1.3L 4 stroke driven aircraft and
have a question about recommendations for wiring these components in that style
system. And use a Single Toggle Switch to turn them ON/OFF. Each of these components
has their own power lead. I am using RotaryAviation's EC2 engine controller,
and I have received these amperage figures for components:
>
>A. EC2 - .25 amp
>B. Injectors - about .75 amp each (exact load depends on rpm)
>C. Coil - 1.5 amp average but depends on RPM, could be as high as 9 amps
per coil.
>
>I want to dual power these from the Main Battery Bus and Engine Battery bus using
a Perihelion Schotty Diode (max 60 amps load).
>
>Question 1: In trying to estimate the fuse sizes for the above loads I am unsure
how to do so for the COILS. If I maximize the load size I could be at 36 amps.
At the same time making them 1.5 x 4 = 6 amps worries me with a nuisance fuse
blow.
>
>Question 2: recommendations:
>A. total the load outcome from Question 1 and run power wire from a single fuse,
in and out of the diode and into a switch. Then split the power lines into
three on the other side of the switch, and at the components end?
>
>B. fuse each component separately, route each power into the diode, then coming
out of the diode split into three power wires. Connect to a TPST (triple pole
single throw) switch for turning all of them ON/OFF, then continue into each
component.
>
>I've asked Rotaryaviation this question several days ago but they've not gotten
back to me. I need to order wire for this endeavor, whichever way is the best,
and would like to move forward.
>
>Thank you for any suggestions and advice,
>
>Mike
>
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|