Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:20 AM - Radio Static Help ()
2. 06:03 AM - Re: Re: Radio Static Help (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
3. 08:12 AM - Re: transponder recommendation ()
4. 08:35 AM - Re: Re: Radio Static Help (Robert Feldtman)
5. 08:41 AM - Re: transponder recommendation (John McMahon)
6. 09:10 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 10/29/07 (Jesse Jenks)
7. 09:33 AM - Re: Radio Static Help (Miskelly, Francis G)
8. 08:33 PM - Wig Wag and keep warm (B Tomm)
9. 10:04 PM - Re: Wig Wag and keep warm (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 10:59 PM - Re: Radio Static Help (xl)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Radio Static Help |
10/30/2007
Hello Scooter, You wrote: "I can't think of anything else to try. Again, I'd
be happy to hear any suggestions."
Try going to the System mode and play around with the squelch adjustments.
Please let us know how you finally solve this problem.
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
------------------------------------------------------------
Time: 01:34:50 PM PST US
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Radio Static Help
From: "ScooterF15" <jsmcgrew@aol.com>
Hi,
I've been on the RV-10 list for a few years, but I've never posted to
AeroElectric.
I've searched the list and haven't found anything that helped to solve my
problem. I'd appreciate any suggestions that you can offer:
--------- BIG SKIP -----------------------------------
I can't think of anything else to try. Again, I'd be happy to hear any
suggestions.
Thanks.
-Jim
N312JE
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Radio Static Help |
I have an alternator over voltage protection setup with an alternator
solenoid which will open when the alternator field circuit breaker pops. I think
I've ruled out a regulator problem since the static continues after I pull the
alt field c/b; is that a bad assumption?
-Jim
In a message dated 10/30/2007 2:41:35 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
sanson.r@xtra.co.nz writes:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "jetboy" <sanson.r@xtra.co.nz>
Have you considered the alternator regulator starting to regulate at 2000
rpm upwards, and the more pronounced effect this could be having with an older
battery, letting transient noise into the DC bus?
Ralph
--------
Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
Message 3
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| Subject: | transponder recommendation |
If you just buy the 330 you can plug the Dynon in directly and have TIS
too! Forget all the conversion stuff. It even displays the interrogated
altitude and provides audible alerts when you slip off your desired
altitude. To boot you get an S mode. Yup, it cost a little over 3k, but
then you really have a nice unit.
If I had the option, I would have two of them. I find transponders are
like step children - the most often forgotten part of the panel, but too
often the one piece of equipment providing the most grief when working
with ATC.
N... Please squawk again, N... Please squall again. N... Would you
please re-cycle your transponder, Sorry center I think I should re-cycle
my transponder blah blah and on and on. Naturally this only happens when
you and ATC are very busy.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Michel Creek
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 7:47 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: transponder recommendation
--> <mwcreek@frontiernet.net>
The short answer is the cost of ownership (plus the inconvenience factor
for repairs, etc) over the expected life of the purchase.
For example the GTX 320A can be fed from your Dynon (using the $80
converter previously mentioned in another post). When you consider the
320 does not use a cavity tube, another maintenance headache is
eliminated. Cavity tubes can be expensive to replace and generate a lot
of heat. I looked at purchasing several used KT76A transponders and
they were going to run about $900+ plus shipping. There was no telling
how long any of these would run before the cavity tube needed replacing.
I estimated the cavity tube would cost overall about $300 to replace and
I would have to do that at least once in the next five years (probably
much sooner), plus I would be getting a piece of equipment with unknown
history and potentially other problems (add more $$$'s). A new GTX 320A
can be had for about $1,300 so why pay basically the same price for a
used piece of electronics with questionable history and reliability
concerns. Buy good quality new equipment hook it up and go fly. You
will have minimum down time and maintenance issues going forward and
that adds value IMOH (not to mention a warranty). The 320A is a very
basic transponder without many bells and whistles. See
https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?cID=198&pID=167
Check pricing at Stark Avionics:
http://www.starkavionics.com/products.htm
The next step up the line which eliminates the Dynon converter is the
Garmin GTX 327 for about $1,450 - it does have some bells and whistles.
This is also a good value IMOH when compared to the typical used and/or
new market (with cavity tubes).
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Ernest Christley
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 3:36 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: transponder recommendation
<echristley@nc.rr.com>
Michel Creek wrote:
>><mwcreek@frontiernet.net>
>>
>> The Garmin GTX 320 while not the cheapest would be hard to beat for
overall
>> value. It is solid state so there are no cavity tubes to replace.
>>
>>
>Could you define what "overall value" means to you?
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Radio Static Help |
I'd check spark plug wires.
need ones with considerable inductance (spiral wound) to surpress HV RFI
bobf
On 10/30/07, JSMcGrew@aol.com <JSMcGrew@aol.com> wrote:
>
> I have an alternator over voltage protection setup with an alternator
> solenoid which will open when the alternator field circuit breaker pops. I
> think I've ruled out a regulator problem since the static continues after I
> pull the alt field c/b; is that a bad assumption?
>
> -Jim
>
> In a message dated 10/30/2007 2:41:35 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> sanson.r@xtra.co.nz writes:
>
>
> Have you considered the alternator regulator starting to regulate at 2000
> rpm upwards, and the more pronounced effect this could be having with an
> older battery, letting transient noise into the DC bus?
>
> Ralph
>
> --------
> Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
>
>
> Jim "Scooter" McGrew
> http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew
>
>
> ------------------------------
> See what's new at ww.aol.com?NCID=AOLCMP00300000001170<http://ww.aol.com/?NCID=AOLCMP00300000001170>"
> *
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: transponder recommendation |
I agree, if you plan on flying much IFR, dual transponders are really nice
touch, and for what you pay for the 330 you can have dual 327s. Just a
thought if having TIS isn't important to you for your planned operations.
On 10/30/07, longg@pjm.com <longg@pjm.com> wrote:
>
>
> If you just buy the 330 you can plug the Dynon in directly and have TIS
> too! Forget all the conversion stuff. It even displays the interrogated
> altitude and provides audible alerts when you slip off your desired
> altitude. To boot you get an S mode. Yup, it cost a little over 3k, but
> then you really have a nice unit.
>
> If I had the option, I would have two of them. I find transponders are
> like step children - the most often forgotten part of the panel, but too
> often the one piece of equipment providing the most grief when working
> with ATC.
>
> N... Please squawk again, N... Please squall again. N... Would you
> please re-cycle your transponder, Sorry center I think I should re-cycle
> my transponder blah blah and on and on. Naturally this only happens when
> you and ATC are very busy.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Michel Creek
> Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 7:47 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: transponder recommendation
>
>
> --> <mwcreek@frontiernet.net>
>
> The short answer is the cost of ownership (plus the inconvenience factor
> for repairs, etc) over the expected life of the purchase.
>
> For example the GTX 320A can be fed from your Dynon (using the $80
> converter previously mentioned in another post). When you consider the
> 320 does not use a cavity tube, another maintenance headache is
> eliminated. Cavity tubes can be expensive to replace and generate a lot
> of heat. I looked at purchasing several used KT76A transponders and
> they were going to run about $900+ plus shipping. There was no telling
> how long any of these would run before the cavity tube needed replacing.
> I estimated the cavity tube would cost overall about $300 to replace and
> I would have to do that at least once in the next five years (probably
> much sooner), plus I would be getting a piece of equipment with unknown
> history and potentially other problems (add more $$$'s). A new GTX 320A
> can be had for about $1,300 so why pay basically the same price for a
> used piece of electronics with questionable history and reliability
> concerns. Buy good quality new equipment hook it up and go fly. You
> will have minimum down time and maintenance issues going forward and
> that adds value IMOH (not to mention a warranty). The 320A is a very
> basic transponder without many bells and whistles. See
> https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?cID=198&pID=167
>
> Check pricing at Stark Avionics:
> http://www.starkavionics.com/products.htm
>
> The next step up the line which eliminates the Dynon converter is the
> Garmin GTX 327 for about $1,450 - it does have some bells and whistles.
> This is also a good value IMOH when compared to the typical used and/or
> new market (with cavity tubes).
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Ernest Christley
> Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 3:36 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: transponder recommendation
>
> <echristley@nc.rr.com>
>
> Michel Creek wrote:
> >><mwcreek@frontiernet.net>
> >>
> >> The Garmin GTX 320 while not the cheapest would be hard to beat for
> overall
> >> value. It is solid state so there are no cavity tubes to replace.
> >>
> >>
>
> >Could you define what "overall value" means to you?
>
>
--
John McMahon
Lancair Super ES, S/N 170, N9637M (Reserved)
Message 6
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| Subject: | RE: AeroElectric-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 10/29/07 |
When using the encoder feature of an EFIS system like Dynon, How difficult
/practical is it to get the required 24 month transponder check from a cert
ified shop? Do they know how to deal with these experimental systems?
Thanks
Jesse
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!- Play Star Shuffle:- the word scramble
challenge with star power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oc
t
Message 7
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| Subject: | Radio Static Help |
I had an exactly identical problem with a KX155. There was a thread on
it several months ago
Eventually found it was the intercom picking up ignition noise. To
diagnose it i had to remove the intercom pin from the back of the radio.
Most, but not all, of the noise disappeared. Just working on one headset
without removing the intercom pin-out still gave the problem. Solved it
by installing an external intercom.
- Frank
________________________________
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Matt
Prather
Sent: Mon 29/10/2007 22:09
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Radio Static Help
<mprather@spro.net>
Based on the symptoms you have described, it sounds kind of like
acoustic
noise getting into the intercom. Have you unplugged all of the headset
mics (the small plug) from the system while in flight?
Regards,
Matt-
<jsmcgrew@aol.com>
>
> Hi,
>
> I've been on the RV-10 list for a few years, but I've never posted to
AeroElectric. I've searched the list and haven't found anything that
helped to solve my problem. I'd appreciate any suggestions that you can
offer:
>
> I've spent the last few weeks trying to track down a problem with
radio
static on my Garmin SL-30 Nav/Comm in my Vans RV-10. The SL-30 is
attached
> to a Garmin GMA-340 Audio panel. The static itself sounds random (i.e.
not
> obviously uniform like I would expect from an ignition system),
however,
it is somehow associated with engine throttle setting. The static starts
around 2000 RPM and gets progressively worse as throttle increases. On
takeoff, it is so bad you can not comprehend any received transmissions.
During cruise it appears to be somehow associated with manifold pressure
(i.e. throttle setting, not RPM). It makes listening to ATC difficult to
impossible. I also think it may be affecting my radio transmissions as
well, because when I have a hard time comprehending ATC, they also have
a
> hard time understanding me. This static appears to be only affecting
the
Comm audio, there is no static on NAV audio reception. I have a belly
mounted bent whip VHF antenna and a wingtip!
> VOR antenna. My handheld ICOM VHF radio does not have any static
when
> used inside the cockpit. Also, I have a Lycoming IO-540 with one mag
and
one LightSpeed Plasma II+ ignition.
>
> I have searched various lists for ideas and tried to solve this
problem,
but I have had no success in changing it at all (for better or worse).
Any
> suggestions for what to try or where to look will be welcome. Below
is
a
> list of some things I have tried with no luck.
>
>
> General
> -Shut off all avionics (except SL-30) and both ignition systems (not
both
> at the same time)
> --So it doesn't appear to be interference from other electronics
>
> Antenna/Coaxial cable
> -Added ferrite signal filters at various locations along comm coax.
-Connected SL-30 to a different comm antenna using a piece of RG-400
(tried
> various routings to antennas)
> -Connected SL-30 Comm to VOR antenna (great reception, still static)
> --So it doesn't appear to be antenna related
>
> Power/ground
> -Ensured engine grounding cables have good contacts on both ends
-Apparently new Slick Magnetos have internal suppression and do not need
a
> filter
> -Separated SL-30 power/ground leads from bundle to reduce potential
interference from other wires
> -Ran SL-30 +12V and ground leads directly to battery
> -Disconnected serial connection between my SL-30 and EFIS indicator
-Connected SL-30 to separate 12V battery sitting on floor of aircraft,
disconnected power/ground to GMA-340. Attached ICOM handheld antenna
directly to unit (SL-30 completely isolated from aircraft)-reception
still
> has static
> -Ran ground wire from battery to SL-30 tray
> -Checked to ensure headseat jacks were isolated from aircraft ground.
-Checked the shield connections for tachometer and fuel flow sensor
wires
>
>
> I can't think of anything else to try. Again, I'd be happy to hear any
suggestions.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -Jim
> N312JE
>
> Jim "Scooter" McGrew
> http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=142588#142588
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Wig Wag and keep warm |
Bob,
When using the B&C SSF-1 wigwag flasher with two 100watt Halogen bulbs, can
I add a keep warm circuit in parallel with the flasher? If so would this
just consist of a nominal resistor (say 1K ohm) and some light gauge wire
(say 22 awg)?
If not, can you suggest a better alternative?
Thanks
Bevan
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag and keep warm |
At 08:30 PM 10/30/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>
>
>Bob,
>
>When using the B&C SSF-1 wigwag flasher with two 100watt Halogen bulbs, can
>I add a keep warm circuit in parallel with the flasher? If so would this
>just consist of a nominal resistor (say 1K ohm) and some light gauge wire
>(say 22 awg)?
>
>If not, can you suggest a better alternative?
>
>Thanks
Keepwarm is not necessary/useful for halogen lamps.
They take so long to cool down that after the first
turn-on, the inrush for successive flashes of the
wigwag is insignificantly higher than normal
operating current.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Problems are the price of progress. )
( Don't bring me anything but trouble. )
( Good news weakens me." )
( -Charles F. Kettering- )
----------------------------------------
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Radio Static Help |
I had a similar problem. static on takeoff and > ~2000 rpm
and loader as RPM increased.
I found a bad crimp connection on an alternator wire.
The wires were oxidized - not a gas tight connection.
I soldered the connection and it's been quiet since.
Some frequencies did not have static. 123.05 did.
Hence the randomness.
I also had static, at one time, from loose distributor caps.
Joe E @ BFI
N633Z ~495 hours
CH601XL, Jabiru 3300A
On Mon, 29 Oct 2007, ScooterF15 wrote:
> Hi,
> I've been on the RV-10 list for a few years, but I've never posted to
> AeroElectric. I've searched the list and haven't found anything that
> helped to solve my problem. I'd appreciate any suggestions that you can
> offer:
> I've spent the last few weeks trying to track down a problem with radio
> static on my Garmin SL-30 Nav/Comm in my Vans RV-10. The SL-30 is
> attached to a Garmin GMA-340 Audio panel. The static itself sounds
> random (i.e. not obviously uniform like I would expect from an ignition
> system), however, it is somehow associated with engine throttle setting.
> The static starts around 2000 RPM and gets progressively worse as
> throttle increases. On takeoff, it is so bad you can not comprehend any
> received transmissions. During cruise it appears to be somehow
> associated with manifold pressure (i.e. throttle setting, not RPM). It
> makes listening to ATC difficult to impossible. I also think it may be
> affecting my radio transmissions as well, because when I have a hard
> time comprehending ATC, they also have a hard time understanding me.
> .......snip .......snip
> do not archive
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