Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:33 AM - November is Matronics Email List Fund Raiser Month! (Matt Dralle)
1. 05:41 AM - Re: Wig Wag and keep warm (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 06:15 AM - Re: For Sale BMA EFIS One (N395V)
3. 06:52 AM - Re: Wig Wag and keep warm (Ernest Christley)
4. 09:52 AM - Re: Wig Wag and keep warm (Vernon Little)
5. 10:26 AM - Re: Wig Wag and keep warm (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 10:38 AM - Re: WTB Crystal Radio (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 11:11 AM - Re: Wig Wag and keep warm (Ken)
8. 07:07 PM - Re: WTB Crystal Radio (Dan Billingsley)
9. 09:52 PM - Re: WTB Crystal Radio (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 11:03 PM - 496 Audio (Dave Saylor)
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| Subject: | November is Matronics Email List Fund Raiser Month! |
Dear Listers,
You've probably noticed that there are no banner ads or pop-up windows or spam
from any of the List and Forum services at Matronics. These include, for example:
The Email List Postings - http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse
The Email List Forum Site - http://forums.matronics.com
The List Wiki - http://wiki.matronics.com
The List Search Engine - http://www.matronics.com/search
This is because I have always enjoyed a List experience that was completely about
the sport we enjoy - airplanes - and not about advertising!
But running a high performance, highly available service like this isn't free and
a fair amount of money in terms of computer upgrades, business-class Internet
connectivity, and electricity. Consequently, many similar sites turn to advertising
to support these costs. Advertising that you have to look at each and
every time you read an email message or browse the their web site.
Rather than subject my List community to another constant commercial bombardment,
I have chosen to hold a PBS-like fund raiser each year in November to support
the continued operation and upgrade of the List services. It's solely through
the Contributions of List members that the Lists and Forums continue to be
possible!
During the month, I will be sending out a Fund Raiser reminder message every few
days and I ask for your patience and understanding during the month throughout
these regular messages. Think of them as PBS' Pledge Breaks... :-)
To minimize the impact of the Fund Raiser on the List community, I implemented
a new feature late last year specifically related to making Contributions. If
you are an Email List subscriber, once you make a Contribution using the online
web site, you will no longer receive the email from me regarding the Fund Raiser!
There are a couple of exceptions to this, however. If someone replies
to a Contribution message I've sent, you might receive that. Additionally, the
messages will always be posted to the Forums site. To a first order, however,
once you make a Contribution, you won't get my email messages about the Fund
Raiser for the rest of the month. For Contributions by check, the squelch
will take effect once the check is received.
There is a whole new line up of really great Contribution gifts this year! When
you make a qualifying Contribution, you can select one of the many free gifts
that are available during the Fund Raiser. These gifts are provided through
the generous support of a number of our industry's leading supporters including:
Bob Nuckolls - AeroElectric - http://www.aeroelectric.com
Andy Gold - Builder's Bookstore - http://www.buildersbooks.com
Jon Croke - HomebuiltHELP - http://www.homebuilthelp.com
Please visit these guy's respective sites, as they have some great products to
offer and are generously supporting the Matronics List Fund Raiser.
You can make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods this
year including using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. From the Contribution
site, you can select any one of this year's free gifts with a qualifying
Contribution amount. The Contribution page is pretty loooonnnnng this year
in order to list great selection of great gifts available so be sure to scroll
all the way to the bottom of the web page to see everything that's available!
Please make a List Support Contribution:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous support! Your Contributions
truely keep this operation afloat!
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Forum Administrator
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag and keep warm |
At 09:31 PM 10/31/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>Is there any harm in wig-wagging halogen lamps (for the safety
>aspect)? Does it shorten lamp life? If not, is the SSF-1 the correct circuit?
>
>
>Thanks
>
>Tony
Temperature cycling by flashing any incandescent lamp
shortens service life . . . but then, using a drill
bit to drill holes also dulls the cutting edges;
drilling steel as opposed to wood makes for fewer
nice holes.
The halogen lamps are MUCH more robust than their
ancestors, hence a lot more tolerant of vibration
and operating cycles. I think it likely that
most owner/operators of halogen fitted aircraft
will operate the same bulbs for the lifetime of
the airplane.
If using the Wig-Wag system by any supplier is
a demonstrable reduction of in-flight risks, then
I'll suggest concerns for service life become
insignificant. Any Wig-Wag system including the
SSF-1 flasher from B&C is worthy of consideration.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Problems are the price of progress. )
( Don't bring me anything but trouble. )
( Good news weakens me." )
( -Charles F. Kettering- )
----------------------------------------
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: For Sale BMA EFIS One |
A new Gen $ EFIS 2 (slightly smaller version of the EFIS 1) can be had for $9000
You may wish to lower your price a bit.
--------
Milt
2003 F1 Rocket
2006 Radial Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=143186#143186
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag and keep warm |
Tony Cann wrote:
>
> Is there any harm in wig-wagging halogen lamps (for the safety
> aspect)? Does it shorten lamp life? If not, is the SSF-1 the correct
> circuit?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Tony
>
Actually, there can be, depending on how it's done.
The halogen works by getting a tungsten filament to glow. Part of the
filament turns to a gas within the bulb, and will settle on the inside
of the glass when the bulb is powered off. The next time the bulb is
turned on, the filament gets hot enough to burn the layer of deposit off
the glass (turning it back into a gas). If you continuously turn it on
without letting it warm to operating temperature, the deposit layer gets
thicker and thicker. The bulb will get darker and darker, and the fix
is simply to let the bulb come up to operating temps. The burn off
process can take a while if the bulb has been abused in this way.
OTOH, there's not point in doing this to a halogen bulb. The filament
in a normal bulb is a very fine wire, that breaks easily and vibrates
like mad. The filament in a halogen is a chunk of tungsten. You're
more likely to break the glass bulb than the filament.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Wig Wag and keep warm |
I found that the flash rate of the SSF-1 was a bit too fast for my lamps to
come up to full brightness. It's a simple mod to replace the internal
electrolytic capacitor with one of higher value (I think I doubled the value
of mine). My issue may have been exacerbated by the inrush current limiters
(ntc thermistors) that I have in series with the lighting circuits.
Vern Little
Message 5
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| Subject: | Wig Wag and keep warm |
At 09:50 AM 11/1/2007 -0700, you wrote:
><rv-9a-online@telus.net>
>
>I found that the flash rate of the SSF-1 was a bit too fast for my lamps to
>come up to full brightness. It's a simple mod to replace the internal
>electrolytic capacitor with one of higher value (I think I doubled the value
>of mine). My issue may have been exacerbated by the inrush current limiters
>(ntc thermistors) that I have in series with the lighting circuits.
Good data point Vern. I'd heard that before
but without specifics as to what the builder
did about it. I think he pitched the SSF-1 flasher
and substituted something else.
I don't think inrush limiters would affect timing
on this device . . . but it's certain that the
inrush limiters have more to do with mitigating
initial turn-on glitches to the bus than for
extending bulb life.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Problems are the price of progress. )
( Don't bring me anything but trouble. )
( Good news weakens me." )
( -Charles F. Kettering- )
----------------------------------------
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: WTB Crystal Radio |
At 08:34 PM 10/4/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>I know this is an odd request, however, I am a high school electronics
>teacher by day and a plane builder by night :>) I thought this might be
>a good place to ask if any of you electronics tinkerers might
>have crystal radio sets jammed into the back of a closet that you would
>like to get rid of. I am trying to round up about 50 of them or the
>components. The difficult part to find in quantity is the variable air
>capacitors (365pfd or close). My e-mail is
>dan at azshowersolutions dot com
>Thanks,
>I live in Mesa, AZ
>Dan
Dan, I'm working on a basic electronics course
that will start with some hands-on activities
that not only explore the simple-ideas of physics
but the practical hands-on ideas for fabrication.
I've discovered a company at
http://tubesandmore.com/
who offers some interesting products:
The B-851 book entitled "The Voice of the Crystal"
by Friedrichs. It offers ways to make things work
without going to the electronics parts store.
The other item of interest is a surplus
C-VW4450 6-gang air variable designed for specific
application in an AM/FM radio. The TOTAL capacitance
of sections combined is about 430 pF. Single
unit price is $2.95 but they say they have a
LOT of them. I've ordered 10 pcs and will let
you know how they look. You might be able to
negotiate a better price for quantities. Best
yet, it has a geared down drive shaft built in.
REALLY good value for the performance. The
smaller sections might figure in a crystal set
or one-tube design for short wave.
Also, take a peek at C-VT250 compression trimmer
that goes up to 250 pF. This is small and would
cover a major portion of the BC band. One could
include a switch that kicks in an extra 100pf
for the bottom end.
Finally, take a peek at item 330181321066
on Ebay. I have one of these and the workmanship
is superb. I'm going to use it in a classroom demo
for both crystal sets and a one-tube radio.
It wouldn't surprise me if the book cited above
doesn't talk about spider-web coil winding. You
can find Litz wire on ebay and other sources.
You could build a form for duplicating the
craftsmanship offered by the ebay guy.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Problems are the price of progress. )
( Don't bring me anything but trouble. )
( Good news weakens me." )
( -Charles F. Kettering- )
----------------------------------------
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag and keep warm |
My 35 watt halogens are still happily wagging at 140 hours which is one
cent per hour bulb cost even if they both quit on the next flight. I
haven't checked them for tungsten deposit darkening recently but I do
know a very particular person who replaces automotive halogen headlights
every year or two because of darkening. I've never found it to be much
of an issue, even on a car that uses a resistor to reduce the current in
the daytime, but measurements might tell a better story. FWIW my opinion
is that thermistor inrush current limiters reduce maximum brightness
enough that I avoid them with halogens since these bulbs have much
extended lives anyway compared to the old 320 hour automotive sealed
beams. I won't purchase extended life household incandescents either
(except for locations with difficult access) as they increase the total
cost per lumen significantly due to less efficiency.
Ken
Ernest Christley wrote:
> <echristley@nc.rr.com>
>
> Tony Cann wrote:
>
>>
>> Is there any harm in wig-wagging halogen lamps (for the safety
>> aspect)? Does it shorten lamp life? If not, is the SSF-1 the
>> correct circuit?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Tony
>>
> Actually, there can be, depending on how it's done.
>
> The halogen works by getting a tungsten filament to glow. Part of the
> filament turns to a gas within the bulb, and will settle on the inside
> of the glass when the bulb is powered off. The next time the bulb is
> turned on, the filament gets hot enough to burn the layer of deposit
> off the glass (turning it back into a gas). If you continuously turn
> it on without letting it warm to operating temperature, the deposit
> layer gets thicker and thicker. The bulb will get darker and darker,
> and the fix is simply to let the bulb come up to operating temps. The
> burn off process can take a while if the bulb has been abused in this
> way.
>
> OTOH, there's not point in doing this to a halogen bulb. The filament
> in a normal bulb is a very fine wire, that breaks easily and vibrates
> like mad. The filament in a halogen is a chunk of tungsten. You're
> more likely to break the glass bulb than the filament.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: WTB Crystal Radio |
Robert, Thanks a bunch for the info...I ordered the book you mentioned as it looks
like a kick to try and make our own stuff. The kids are currently finishing
up their first attempts at crystal radios. Thanks to Ed Larson here on the list
they have variablle caps to tie in. He sent me a whole box of various sizes.
We were out today on the football field and found 4 radios that worked...quite
faint...but it was enough to get them worked up. We are going to build a one
or two transistor amp to add to them. That will get them into making a PCB.
Thanks again, Dan Billingsley
Building a Kitfox-IV
http://www.azshowersolutions.com/Build1.html
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net> wrote:
At 08:34 PM 10/4/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>I know this is an odd request, however, I am a high school electronics
>teacher by day and a plane builder by night :>) I thought this might be
>a good place to ask if any of you electronics tinkerers might
>have crystal radio sets jammed into the back of a closet that you would
>like to get rid of. I am trying to round up about 50 of them or the
>components. The difficult part to find in quantity is the variable air
>capacitors (365pfd or close). My e-mail is
>dan at azshowersolutions dot com
>Thanks,
>I live in Mesa, AZ
>Dan
Dan, I'm working on a basic electronics course
that will start with some hands-on activities
that not only explore the simple-ideas of physics
but the practical hands-on ideas for fabrication.
I've discovered a company at
http://tubesandmore.com/
who offers some interesting products:
The B-851 book entitled "The Voice of the Crystal"
by Friedrichs. It offers ways to make things work
without going to the electronics parts store.
The other item of interest is a surplus
C-VW4450 6-gang air variable designed for specific
application in an AM/FM radio. The TOTAL capacitance
of sections combined is about 430 pF. Single
unit price is $2.95 but they say they have a
LOT of them. I've ordered 10 pcs and will let
you know how they look. You might be able to
negotiate a better price for quantities. Best
yet, it has a geared down drive shaft built in.
REALLY good value for the performance. The
smaller sections might figure in a crystal set
or one-tube design for short wave.
Also, take a peek at C-VT250 compression trimmer
that goes up to 250 pF. This is small and would
cover a major portion of the BC band. One could
include a switch that kicks in an extra 100pf
for the bottom end.
Finally, take a peek at item 330181321066
on Ebay. I have one of these and the workmanship
is superb. I'm going to use it in a classroom demo
for both crystal sets and a one-tube radio.
It wouldn't surprise me if the book cited above
doesn't talk about spider-web coil winding. You
can find Litz wire on ebay and other sources.
You could build a form for duplicating the
craftsmanship offered by the ebay guy.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Problems are the price of progress. )
( Don't bring me anything but trouble. )
( Good news weakens me." )
( -Charles F. Kettering- )
----------------------------------------
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: WTB Crystal Radio |
At 07:05 PM 11/1/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>Robert, Thanks a bunch for the info...I ordered the book you mentioned as
>it looks like a kick to try and make our own stuff. The kids are currently
>finishing up their first attempts at crystal radios. Thanks to Ed Larson
>here on the list they have variablle caps to tie in. He sent me a whole
>box of various sizes. We were out today on the football field and found 4
>radios that worked...quite faint...but it was enough to get them worked
>up. We are going to build a one or two transistor amp to add to them. That
>will get them into making a PCB. Thanks again, Dan Billingsley
>Building a Kitfox-IV
><http://www.azshowersolutions.com/Build1.html>http://www.azshowersolutions.com/Build1.html
I've ordered one too. I've been 'building' since
the 4th grade when I listened to Ike's election
returns on the first crystal set I built from
a kit.
I've nearly always lived near Wichita's 5KW
AM station . . . easy to get strong signals,
hard to get anyone else. I've inherited a house
from my father in Medicine Lodge, KS . . . lots
of miles from any AM BC station. I've become
interested in seeing what can be heard from afar
with a reasonable antenna system and high
Q tuning.
I purchased some 6418 vacuum tubes . . . See:
http://www.schmarder.com/radios/tube/6418.htm
I'm in the process of packaging the 6418
circuitry into one of my standard product
packages. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Products/A15_Package.jpg
Everything but batteries, regen pot, tuning
caps and inductors will be in this package.
The BIG variability in performance is configuration
of tuning sections/antenna. I thought it would
be useful to have the constants packaged in
a robust module that allows fast,
low-risk assembly of the variables.
If you'd like one of these modules
to play with, I'll send you one when
they're done.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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Marty and all,
We learned a bunch today about audio out from the Garmin 496 that could be
helpftul.
I had a harness built by Stark to allow me to put audio from the power/data
chord from a 2/3/496 into unswitched audio in my GMA340 audio panel. Seemed
like a simple thing, but we never got any audio from the power/data chord.
Audio jack, yes, data chord, no.
Turns out the audio from the power/data cable is to drive an 8 ohm speaker.
I learned that by taking apart a Garmin 12V adapter/speaker and reading the
back of the $.05 speaker inside: Made in China, 8 Ohms, 2/3W.
The audio panel was looking for a 600 ohm input.
Interestingly, Garmin told told both John and me that the only audio coming
out of the 496, in aviation mode, was from the audio jack(3/496s have a 1/8"
audio jack, which outputs XM audio, and all the warnings, as well as "Voice
+" and "Voice -" wires in the power/data cable). Garmin said not even to
bother trying to get audio from the Voice wires while in aviation mode. It
did not exist.
Well, it does exist because it plays just fine with the speaker/12V adapter
plugged in. I put the unit in sim mode and flew into a mountain. The
speaker gives every warning you would expect, and the "Sound" page of the
Setup menu controls the audio as you would expect.
With a jack inserted into the audio plug, the XM audio is turned off to the
power/data chord but all the warnings still come through. Which is nice,
because if you wire the unit per Garmin's advice, and run the audio jack
into the music input of the audio panel, your terrain warnings will get
muted by intercom activity or incoming transmissions. I want to know about
those pesky mountains, even if it interupts music playing in the
background...
Now my problem is to figure out how to convert the 8 ohm signal from the
power/data chord to 600 ohms. I guess I need a transformer. I found a 8
ohm to 1000 ohm, with center tap, at radio shack...can anyone tell me if
that will work? How do I wire it?
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
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