Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:37 AM - Crimping Tools (noelk)
2. 02:31 AM - Re: AA battery replacer? What is this thingy called?? ()
3. 05:04 AM - Re: Magneto and VM1000 Dimming (Ralph E. Capen)
4. 05:25 AM - Satellite antenna Proximity? (Eric Parlow)
5. 05:42 AM - Re: Z14 Bat/Alt Master switch circuit questions (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 05:52 AM - My SL-70 findings (Ralph E. Capen)
7. 06:07 AM - Re: Re: TRIM Disconnect Switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 06:10 AM - Re: Satellite antenna ground planes required? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 06:20 AM - antenna proximity (Bob Newman)
10. 06:20 AM - Bus Bar Question (Michael Hinchcliff)
11. 07:09 AM - Re: Satellite antenna Proximity? (Deems Davis)
12. 07:36 AM - Fuses and fusible links (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 08:08 AM - Re: Satellite antenna Proximity? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 08:10 AM - Re: Crimping Tools (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 08:12 AM - Re: Bus Bar Question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 08:26 AM - unswitched input - PM1000II (rd2@evenlink.com)
17. 08:46 AM - Re: Tyco and all its problems (Eric M. Jones)
18. 09:08 AM - Re: Tyco and all its problems (dballin)
19. 09:55 AM - Re: RV8 firewall ground block location (Valovich, Paul)
20. 10:03 AM - Transponder issues (antenna based?) (Ralph E. Capen)
21. 11:04 AM - Z-12 Questions (Jeff Page)
22. 11:23 AM - Sensornetics Efs and Efis system, feedback needed (mosquito56)
23. 11:39 AM - Re: Matt's Profiteering (not) (mosquito56)
24. 12:23 PM - Re: Sensornetics Efs and Efis system, feedback needed (Matt Prather)
25. 12:28 PM - Re: Re: Matt's Profiteering (not) (Ernest Christley)
26. 12:36 PM - Power schematic for review (Europa List)
27. 02:04 PM - Re: Sensornetics Efs and Efis system, feedback needed ()
28. 02:41 PM - Re: Power schematic for review (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
29. 03:39 PM - Re: unswitched input - PM1000II (n801bh@netzero.com)
30. 05:26 PM - Re: Sensornetics Efs and Efis system, feedback needed (Michel Creek)
31. 07:28 PM - Re: Power schematic for review (Gaye and Vaughn)
32. 08:41 PM - Re: Power schematic for review (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
33. 09:01 PM - Re: Power schematic for review (Gaye and Vaughn)
34. 09:03 PM - Re: Power schematic for review (Peter Harris)
Message 1
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I have a crimping tool for PIDG-type connectors that, while bought locally here
in Australia, appears to be identical to the RCT-1 from B&C. It did not come
with any instructions regarding the pressure setting dial. Are there any general
guidelines regarding the pressure setting to use for different wire gauges?
If not, what are the things to look for in the finished crimp in order to assess
whether the pressure setting is correct?
Regards
Noel Karppinen
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145320#145320
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: AA battery replacer? What is this thingy called?? |
>Re: AA battery replacer? What is this thingy called??
>From: "mikef" <mikefapex@gmail.com>
>Thanks again, Mike
I know what you are asking, you want to connect a 12 volt cigarette to 3 volt
power supply to your head-set through some dummy AA cells (with wires sticking
out them).
Well you could just solder or clip some wires in and route them out to a plug
and the power supply. I am not sure they make AA with wires sticking out of them.
You could make them but that is a lot of work for little gain. Do you wnat
extra wires running all over and a 12v to 3 v power supply going all the time.
Mike if I where you, I would by a bunch of rechargeable nickel-metal hydride
batteries, abbreviated NiMH.
Get the biggest capacity ones. Than just charge say 4 or 6 of them up and put
them in your plane. You could also charge the "spare set" with a portable 12v
cigarette lighter charger. You really don't want wires running all over do you?
Just get a home charger and charge them there. I have about 30 NiiMH batteries
I run through my charger. They last a long time in service.
George
__________________________________________________
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Magneto and VM1000 Dimming |
My VM1000 would dim with my B&C dimmer....then I started having problems with the
backlight not working at all. JPI told me there was something wrong with my
wiring - checked that. I haven't flown yet but they wouldn't repair it - and
wanted too much money for me to give JPI. I bought an Advanced Flight Systems
AF3400EM - used most of the existing wiring and am a happy camper now.
Parting out my VM1000 to keep others going.....
-----Original Message-----
>From: DEAN PSIROPOULOS <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>Sent: Nov 11, 2007 2:47 AM
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Magneto and VM1000 Dimming
>
>
>Functional checkout of my (Nuckolls inspired)electrical system has gone well
>so far with no smoked wiring or equipment. I bought an equivalent of an
>Odyssey 680 a couple years ago and trickle charged it occasionally hoping it
>would at least be good enough to do electrical checkout, first engine start
>and maybe a few times around the pattern. But it appears that is not the
>case. Voltmeter says there is 12.5 volts at the terminals but it can't
>produce enough amps to fire the battery contactor or even make some sparks
>when shorted, pretty pathetic. I substituted a Panasonic 4.5 amp hour sealed
>lead acid battery that I bought second hand about 6 years ago. It's got
>enough oomph for the checkout but I'll need a new 680 for 1st engine start.
>
>I did a test on my magneto P-lead (one mag on left side, electronic on right
>side)with an ohm meter. Thinking that when the key switch is in the off
>position, the resistance across the p-lead should measure close to dead
>short and, it does. By the same logic, I thought that when the mag was
>ungrounded the resistance across the pleads (I used a shielded wire with the
>shield grounded at the magneto through the key switch as Bob recommends, no
>local grounding). But when I measured across the p-leads at the magneto the
>resistance only went from 0.2 ohms to 0.4 ohms when I turned the key. Not
>an appreciable increase in resistance but it was consistent (happens every
>time) and measurable. I thought maybe I had a faulty key switch but not so,
>I removed one p-lead from the mag and made the same measurement and the
>resistance with the key in that mag's position read infinite. I suspect
>that there is some thing about magnetos I don't know and that this is not a
>problem but would like to be sure. Anybody ever done this test? Did you get
>the same results?
>
>Also checked out the VM-1000 and it seems to work fine except for dimming.
>I used one of the B&C dimmers connected to the VM-1000 dimming input but I
>don't seem to get any dimming action (backlight works ok). Anyone else
>experience this? Have I missed something in the VM manual and it doesn't use
>an external dimming input? Any thoughts? Thanks.
>
>Dean
>RV-6A N197DM
>closer to 1st flight.
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Satellite antenna Proximity? |
Is there a concern in mounting 3 GPS antennas within 12" of each other?
One is WAAS for a GNS-430W, One is for EFIS, and one is for a handheld
Garmin 396.
ERic--
RV-10, N104EP
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Z14 Bat/Alt Master switch circuit questions |
At 03:26 PM 11/11/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>Bob,
>
>
>I m building a Z-14 (dual bat, dual alt, split bus) with a 100amp primary
>alt, a 20amp aux alt (SD20), and identical Odyssey style, AGM
>batteries. Thus, I ve biased my heavy/normal loads toward the primary
>side/bus (heated prop, heated seats, etc).
>
>
>I noted the z-14 drawing has s700-2-10 (three way) bat/alt master
>switches, which are functionally equivalent to traditional Cessna style
>split master switches. I understand this is a useful approach for
>preventing activation of an alternator without an associated battery
>on-line. However, as shown, it also means that taking a battery off-line
>dictates that the associated alternator is off-line.
>
>
>It seems that it would still be ok to leave an alternator on-line, with it
>s associated battery off-line, as long as the cross-tie and other battery
>were still on-line. However, this is not possible as shown in a std Z-14.
>
>
>I m interested in knowing more regarding these potential scenarios and
>potential alternative approaches&
>
>
>1) What typically happens when a battery fails that might cause
>someone to want it off-line?
Doesn't happen in a adequately mainatined RG battery.
>a. Shorts a cell, which causes it to drop approx 2 volts (???)
>
> i.
> Would I even know this while the alternator is working??
> ii. What
> happens if it (and the associated alt) is left on-line???
Not a scenario to consider.
>b. Battery cable becomes disconnected, or contactor fails, etc -
>which causes the battery to become off-line
>
> i.
> What happens to the alternator that is now working without an associated
> battery?
Voltage regulation might become a bit less stable . . . not big deal.
Alternator at-risk for being "stalled" by hi-inrush load but easily
accommodated by closing crossfeed contactor after the stall-event.
> ii. How
> would I know to turn on the cross-tie (assuming it was normally off) to
> tie the lone alternator to the remaining good battery?
Any time one of the two busses goes dark -OR- if the alternator
is known to be off-line (low volts warning light).
>c. Other Failure scenarios???
>
>
>2) It seems the wiring alternatives would include:
>
>
>a. Do nothing (leave z14 as-is) since the potential loss of a battery
>is low, and even so I could simply either 1) leave the failed battery and
>associated good alt on-line (with the cross connector) and/or 2) complete
>an expedited landing with only the aux power system.
Gross battery failures in a maintained battery
are exceedingly rare. I cannot say "zero" but
it's so close to zero that you and I are unlikely
to hear of anyone who had the experience and even
less likely to experience it ourselves.
>
>
>b. Include a pullable breaker (or fuse) in series with the battery
>contactor side of the s700-2-10 master switch to allow the alternator to
>be on-line with the battery off-line (by pulling that breaker/fuse) and
>leaving the switch in the both-on position. Of course this essentially
>overrides the inherent alternator only prevention and implies the user
>knows the cross-tie must therefore also be on.
>
>
>c. Create a more complex logic-based circuit with separate bat and
>alt switches that only energizes the alternator switches when a
>appropriate battery is also connected (either the associated battery or
>the other battery and the cross-tie)
>
>
>d. Create fully separate bat and alt switches and leave it up to the
>pilot to get it right (the simplest, but perhaps not the safest).
>
>
>e. Other???
Z-14 has simmered on the stove for over 10 years
with considerable praying over the list of failure
modes by lots of folks. As published, it meets the
design goals for minimum parts count and simple
operating procedures that avoid becoming a
diagnostician/mechanic in flight. If it were my
airplane, I'd install it as-published.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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Subject: | My SL-70 findings |
Reposted from other lists - hopefully to elicit Bob N's comments!
Here's what I've done/found:
Upon start-up the SL-70 says TEST and FAIL in the two display windows.
If I turn the little knob on the right - it goes to the specific tests individually
- all PASS except for SYN, RECV, and TRAN
Took antenna direct to the back of the unit (down to the first piece of coax) with
a 5.5" aluminum disk as a ground plane.
No change
Measured continuity of the first piece of coax
Open from center to shield
Initial resistance of center conductor goes to zero shortly
Initial resistance of shield does not go to zero but remains very low
The Transponder did not come alive - although it still continues to pass encoder
info to the GPS
Here's what I think:
The radio portion of the unit is hosed and the box needs to go in for repair -
off to call GarminAT repair.
The first antenna coupling (in the back of the unit's tray) and the first chunk
of cable attached thereto is where I'll start troubleshooting the resistance
problem.
Here's where I need comments:
RG400 shield resistance - I think it should go to zero just like the center conductor.
The first pair of connectors appear to be silver plated - and the plating appears
to be oxidized - I would think that inserting and reseating the connector should
(but shouldn't need to) renew the connection.
This is the same tray connector (I think) that has been recently mentioned on this
list.
Thanks in advance,
Ralph Capen
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: TRIM Disconnect Switch |
At 10:09 PM 11/11/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Way off topic here..
>
>Any time I hear the "patent" word in the midst of real innovators I cringe.
>
>PLEASE look at
>
>"Case Against Patents" on Don Lancaster's WWW.tinaja.com
>
>Then if you want to know how real innovators make money from ideas,
>read "Riskdown" on the same site.
Agreed. I've had numerous clients bring up the
topic of seeking formalized "protections" of one
kind or another, including patents. I refer them
to the biographies of individuals like Edwin
Armstrong . . .
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edwin_Howard_Armstrong
who had a "great idea" but not the resources to
exploit it . . . in particular a high-demand
marketplace. His patent battles ultimately consumed
both his material and spiritual existence.
I always tell my customers that the best way
to "protect their investment" is to vigorously
and skillfully exploit it while working diligently
to be the first to obsolete the present incarnation
of the idea before competition does it for them.
Nowhere has this philosophy been more successfully
practiced than in the computer accessories business.
Had a client in KC seek my help some years ago
on a product that would be manufactured for a total
of perhaps 18 months but 9-12 months more typical.
Many of their products ran their market life
in two or three batches of production only to be
replaced by the next greatest thing.
Return on investment peaks when the agile
supplier of goods figures out how to optimize
their product in ways most attractive to
consumers. These folks are always successful
and probably much more successful than those
who spend $time$ arguing the finer points
of their patents before a jury educated in
American public schools.
There is probably no feature of an RV that
is worthy of patenting or even copyrighting
but Mr. V has demonstrated his ability
to offer an attractive product that is constantly
evolving into the next greatest thing.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Problems are the price of progress. )
( Don't bring me anything but trouble. )
( Good news weakens me." )
( -Charles F. Kettering- )
----------------------------------------
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Satellite antenna ground planes required? |
At 08:11 PM 11/11/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>
>I have 2 (two) satellite antennas mounted to the top of my RV-10 cabin. On
>is for a WAAS GPS sensor and the Other is for an XM weather receiver.The
>cabin top is entirely made of fiberglass/epoxy composite. I've looked in
>vain for information as to whether or not groundplanes are required for
>these antennas, and if so what size/dimension. I would dearly appreciate
>any guidance and direction the list or it's Sponsor might provide.
Ground planes at 1.5 GHz are not terribly
large in terms of real estate . . . and depending
on the antenna's design, may not be necessary
at all.
What ever manner of shelf, fabricated from aluminum
sheet and used to position the antennas at the
top of the fuselage will no doubt prove to be
adequate.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Problems are the price of progress. )
( Don't bring me anything but trouble. )
( Good news weakens me." )
( -Charles F. Kettering- )
----------------------------------------
Message 9
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Subject: | antenna proximity |
Eric, I studied all the documents I could find on this subject when
I did our new panel in our Glastar and found nothing suggest a problem
would occur. So I mounted our two Garmin GPS antennas within about 6"
of each other. One feeds our GNS-530 and one feeds our Garmin 250-XL.
On occasion I stick the remote antenna for my hand held Garmin on the
skylight of The glastar within about 12" of the other two antennas.
I've flown this combo for about a year including IFR. I've had zero
problems.
Bob Newman
www.tcwtech.com
If you want to check out our instrument panel fed by this combination
of antennas visit the web site listed above and then scroll down to the
bottom of our home page, click on "visit or new instruement panel
N99RN"
Message 10
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Subject: | Bus Bar Question |
Are the brass strips sold by B&C adequate to use as a bus bar for a 12V
ship on a 60 amp circuit-breaker ? The brass strips are 0.5 inches
wide, but only .025 thick. Seems quite thin considering the 6 AWG cable
that feeds it. Should I use something a little thicker?
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Satellite antenna Proximity? |
Eric, the information i received on the same subject, indicated that for
the WAAS and Weather antennas, the only promimity issue was to avoid
placing them close to TRANSMITTING antennas.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Eric Parlow wrote:
> <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
>
> Is there a concern in mounting 3 GPS antennas within 12" of each other?
> One is WAAS for a GNS-430W, One is for EFIS, and one is for a handheld
> Garmin 396.
>
> ERic--
> RV-10, N104EP
>
>
Message 12
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Subject: | Fuses and fusible links |
Bob: Your book says "B-lead fuse kit from our website catalog" which I'm
not able to locate on your site- is it still available?
B&C has acquired all of our parts business.
See http://bandc.biz
If you're thinking of using a fusible link
in the output of a PM alternator or perhaps
an SD-20, consider also the MAXI fuse in-line
fuse holders. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuse_Holders/MaxiFuse_Holder.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuse_Holders/Maxi_Holder.gif
You can get these at auto parts stores along
with matching fuses . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuses/maxi.gif
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Fuses_and_Current_Limiters/Bussman/MAXI_Specs.pdf
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Problems are the price of progress. )
( Don't bring me anything but trouble. )
( Good news weakens me." )
( -Charles F. Kettering- )
----------------------------------------
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Subject: | Re: Satellite antenna Proximity? |
At 08:22 AM 11/12/2007 -0500, you wrote:
><ericparlow@hotmail.com>
>
>Is there a concern in mounting 3 GPS antennas within 12" of each other?
>One is WAAS for a GNS-430W, One is for EFIS, and one is for a handheld
>Garmin 396.
>
>ERic--
>RV-10, N104EP
No
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Problems are the price of progress. )
( Don't bring me anything but trouble. )
( Good news weakens me." )
( -Charles F. Kettering- )
----------------------------------------
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Subject: | Re: Crimping Tools |
At 01:32 AM 11/12/2007 -0800, you wrote:
>
>I have a crimping tool for PIDG-type connectors that, while bought locally
>here in Australia, appears to be identical to the RCT-1 from B&C. It did
>not come with any instructions regarding the pressure setting dial. Are
>there any general guidelines regarding the pressure setting to use for
>different wire gauges? If not, what are the things to look for in the
>finished crimp in order to assess whether the pressure setting is correct?
>
>Regards
>
>Noel Karppinen
The RCT-1 doesn't have an adjustment. I suspect
your adjustment has more to do with how much force
it takes to complete the handle-stroke as opposed
to closure of the dies. See:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/crimptools.html
The dies should close completely and the tool
should not take excessive hand-force to
complete the cycle.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Problems are the price of progress. )
( Don't bring me anything but trouble. )
( Good news weakens me." )
( -Charles F. Kettering- )
----------------------------------------
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Bus Bar Question |
At 08:17 AM 11/12/2007 -0600, you wrote:
>Are the brass strips sold by B&C adequate to use as a bus bar for a 12V
>ship on a 60 amp circuit-breaker ? The brass strips are 0.5 inches wide,
>but only .025 thick. Seems quite thin considering the 6 AWG cable that
>feeds it. Should I use something a little thicker?
Nope. While they appear "thin" the surface area
and local attachments for rejecting heat
are superior to insulated wire.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Problems are the price of progress. )
( Don't bring me anything but trouble. )
( Good news weakens me." )
( -Charles F. Kettering- )
----------------------------------------
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Subject: | unswitched input - PM1000II |
Has anyone tried to use the input for aircraft radio of PS Enginerring
PM1000II intercom (pins 17 and 4) as an unswitched/unmuted input for
warnings etc.?
If yes, what is the recommended resistor in line of the signal to the
intercom?
(PS Engineering is reluctant to give advice on the subject.)
Rumen
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Tyco and all its problems |
Gilles, You didn't miss anything. The reasons for using the EV200aaana or the GX11
are more than just hold current. (Gigavac also has a lower hold current model
if you ask)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is mostly a repost.
Compare---
____________________Type 70__________GX-11
Weight.........................12.5 Oz.............18 Oz
Temp...........................50 DegC...........75-85 DegC
(50 degC 122 F) makes the type 70 unusable....
Position........................Cap Down..........Any
Environmental...............Dust-Proof.........Hermetically sealed
Coil Suppression............Must be added....Built in
B&C Type 70 uses diodes, GX-11 uses transorbs (SnapJacks!)
Continuous Amps............80 at 50C..........150A at 75C
Inrush A.........................150...................500-2000
Open against Vmax.......... 35V.................>>100V
(...same as Kilovac)
Hold current.....................1.0 A................700 mA
(Kilovac is 100 mA, Gigavac has lower hold currents on request)
G-force opening...............2G ??................>>10G
Anyway the GX11 will be about $120, but the Type 70 ($37.00 from Newark) is not
really useable in my opinion. You may want the accessory contacts and long leads...couldn't
hurt.
The Kilovac EV200aaana (aka Blue Sea 9012) is still great (similar to the Gigavac
GX11).
The type 70 is problematic even if very common and long in the tooth. It is deficient
in four main areas:
1) Poor coil suppression (this can be retrofitted to improve it)
2) Inadequate operating temperature. My GUESS is that the early ones had fiber/bakelite
interiors, now they are Nylon. Regardless 122F spec is way too low to
use.
3) Inadequate G force withstand. 2G ??
4) Open against Vmax. 35V. They could sustain an arc if the alternator runs away.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145413#145413
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Tyco and all its problems |
Gilles
You are absolutely right and my mistake. Gigavac does make a more efficient model
the GX11TA 24v 45mA hold down current. You just have to ask for it!
Thanks for catching my error.
Dan Ballin
Legacy #286
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145421#145421
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Subject: | Re: RV8 firewall ground block location |
I'm building an -8A QB, using fuses vice CBs. My ground block is on the
lower firewall on the left side (looking fwd) of the deep baggage
compartment hole. My fuse blocks are on the forward side of the aft deep
baggage compartment bulkhead. After wiring is complete, I'll build a
lightweight container around the blocks to isolate them from cargo. Give
up a few cubic inches, but provide easy access.
Paul Valovich
N192NM Reserved (Again)
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Subject: | Transponder issues (antenna based?) |
Here's what I've done/found:
Upon start-up the SL-70 says TEST and FAIL in the two display windows.
If I turn the little knob on the right - it goes to the specific tests individually
-all PASS except for SYN, RECV, and TRAN
Took antenna direct to the back of the unit (down to the first piece of coax) with
a 5.5" aluminum disk as a ground plane.
No change
Measured continuity of the first piece of coax
Open from center to shield
Initial resistance of center conductor goes to zero shortly
Initial resistance of shield does not go to zero but remains very low
The Transponder did not come alive - although it still continues to pass encoder
info to the GPS
Here's what I think:
The radio portion of the unit is hosed and the box needs to go in for repair -
off
to call GarminAT repair.
The first antenna coupling (in the back of the unit's tray) and the first chunk
of cable attached thereto is where I'll start troubleshooting the resistance
problem.
Here's where I need comments:
RG400 shield resistance - I think it should go to zero just like the center conductor.
The first pair of connectors appear to be silver plated - and the plating appears
to be oxidized - I would think that inserting and reseating the connector should
(but shouldn't need to) renew the connection.
Thanks in advance,
Ralph Capen
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I have now read my new Aero Electric Connection cover to cover. Even
for someone with a university education in electronics, it was still
fabulously enlightening. Thanks Bob !
One of the things I have already learned is that Bob has designed
everything as it is for a particular and often unapparent reason.
So I have questions before I change anything :-)
I am building a night VFR aircraft which will have a Dynon as the main
instruments and engine monitoring. I will probably have a real ASI
and altimeter, since I find them much easier to read and I can happily
fly without the Dynon then. We take long distance trips, so I am more
concerned with failures that make it difficult to fly 10 hours home
than flight safety to get back on the ground, since I am usually
flying in nice weather.
In my 400 hours of flying, I have already had an alternator failure in
a rental aircraft. Although it was uneventful really, I would not
want to fly a long trip home without any electrics.
So Z-12 looks like a good fit for me, with an SD-8 as the backup
alternator (brilliant idea this product).
Figure 17-4 shows an SD-8 charging the battery directly, whereas Z-12
is like 17-8 with the two alternators are in parallel, and thus the
SD-8 cannot charge the battery with the contactor open. I don't think
the B&C SB1B-14 regulator is intended for the SD-8. So wire the SD-8
like figure 17-4 ?
It is easy to put a long list of items on the endurance bus. However,
maybe that doesn't matter. The likely failure modes need to be
analyzed. In the event of an alternator failure, switches can be used
to turn off unnecessary devices, so it doesn't matter which bus they
are really on (just contactor hold current). In the event of an
electrical fire, the battery contactor will be switched off, so only
the necessary items for an immediate emergency landing need to be on
the endurance bus.
Maybe an electrical fire is far less likely since I will be using
fuses almost entirely. Unlike a circuit breaker that cannot be
trusted to pop, the fuse will likely blow. No fire, smoke or smell,
so usually no need to turn off the battery contactor ??
The diode tying the main bus to the endurance bus seems unnecessary.
The main bus could easily be wired to pin 3 of the e-bus alternate
feed switch. This implies the diode is more reliable than the switch
(which is only switched once to test at each run-up). If it is a
reliability concern, why not wire the switch and keep the diode ? Or
is there another reason I haven't even guessed at ?
I will appreciate everyone's input.
Jeff Page
Dream Aircraft Tundra #10
Message 22
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Subject: | Sensornetics Efs and Efis system, feedback needed |
I was going with the dynon d100-d180 combo when the guy from can-zac (sorry, terrible with names but he is very well know, loved the stratch building video) mentioned http://www.sensornetics.com/.
I have looked at this product and it seems superior to the dynon and about
2k less expensive.
I am leary of purchasing an unknown system. Can anyone give feedback on system
and support from this company?
Don
--------
Don Merritt- Laredo, Tx
Apologies if I seem antagonistic.
I believe in the freeflowing ideas and discussions between individuals for assistance
in this thing we call life.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145459#145459
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: Matt's Profiteering (not) |
I have to put my 2 cents in. If a person gives a service worth something then we
should be willing to pay something for it.
There are a couple of good reasons for doing this for free but they can only
last for a very limited time. The reasons might be boredom, learning or enjoyment
of coding. Each reason is valid but all only last for a limited time.
I am sure Matt could find something better to do, has learned all he need about
coding, and has had so much coding it is no longer enjoyable doing the same
thing over and over.
Now that he has no reason to pay the massive bills to run the server, the only
option left is to pay for his time. If he is not given sufficient reasons
to run this site he may just turn the darn thing off. If he were to do that I
would be up the creek with no paddle.
Anyone who thinks yahoo groups are worthwhile except for general chit chat about
planes is crazy. I am in 5 groups and get maybe 4 emails a day. The responses
to yahoo are so small that I have e-mails sent to me anytime anyone puts
in a message. If I tried that with matronics I would be so overloaded with e-mails
I would spend an hour a day erasing e-mails.
My point is until I found matronics from the Zenith site, I had no informational
source from the net and was completely lost.
I figure if we each give minimum $20 and he gets 2,000 checks each year that
should help with the bills and leave enough for a few adult beverages at the
end of the day.
If you really think yahoo is better because it's free, then be so kind as to
not use up our bandwidth with nonesense.
SEND A CHECK!!!!! If you can afford a $100 hamburger you can afford something
for Matt.
P.S. I don't know Matt. I have only been on this site since July when I bought
my kit.
Don
--------
Don Merritt- Laredo, Tx
Apologies if I seem antagonistic.
I believe in the freeflowing ideas and discussions between individuals for assistance
in this thing we call life.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145462#145462
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: Sensornetics Efs and Efis system, feedback |
needed
While the sensornetics products look pretty slick, it doesn't appear that
they include any type of gyro capability. That probably represents at
least a portion of the cost savings.
Regards,
Matt-
> <mosquito-56@hotmail.com>
>
> I was going with the dynon d100-d180 combo when the guy from can-zac
> (sorry, terrible with names but he is very well know, loved the stratch
> building video) mentioned http://www.sensornetics.com/.
> I have looked at this product and it seems superior to the dynon and
> about 2k less expensive.
> I am leary of purchasing an unknown system. Can anyone give feedback on
> system and support from this company?
> Don
>
> --------
> Don Merritt- Laredo, Tx
> Apologies if I seem antagonistic.
> I believe in the freeflowing ideas and discussions between individuals
> for assistance in this thing we call life.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145459#145459
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Matt's Profiteering (not) |
mosquito56 wrote:
>
> I have to put my 2 cents in. If a person gives a service worth something then
we should be willing to pay something for it.
> There are a couple of good reasons for doing this for free but they can only
last for a very limited time. The reasons might be boredom, learning or enjoyment
of coding. Each reason is valid but all only last for a limited time.
> I am sure Matt could find something better to do, has learned all he need
about coding, and has had so much coding it is no longer enjoyable doing the
same thing over and over.
> Now that he has no reason to pay the massive bills to run the server, the
only option left is to pay for his time. If he is not given sufficient reasons
to run this site he may just turn the darn thing off. If he were to do that
I would be up the creek with no paddle.
> Anyone who thinks yahoo groups are worthwhile except for general chit chat
about planes is crazy. I am in 5 groups and get maybe 4 emails a day. The responses
to yahoo are so small that I have e-mails sent to me anytime anyone puts
in a message. If I tried that with matronics I would be so overloaded with e-mails
I would spend an hour a day erasing e-mails.
> My point is until I found matronics from the Zenith site, I had no informational
source from the net and was completely lost.
> I figure if we each give minimum $20 and he gets 2,000 checks each year that
should help with the bills and leave enough for a few adult beverages at the
end of the day.
> If you really think yahoo is better because it's free, then be so kind as
to not use up our bandwidth with nonesense.
>
> SEND A CHECK!!!!! If you can afford a $100 hamburger you can afford something
for Matt.
>
> P.S. I don't know Matt. I have only been on this site since July when I bought
my kit.
>
>
I've sent a check, but I hate to see things going overboard. Massive
server? I don't know how many list Matt's running, but the Aeroelectric
list and a dozen like it would run fine on a 5yr-old low end computer
contected to a residential broadband connection. I ran several list a
while back, and like you say, it gets old. It can be rather tedious at
times, and it is one more responsibility that isn't building airplanes.
Matt does more than I ever cared to, with the virus/spam scanning and
all, but it is still a fairly intermittent duty. Maintaining the forums
may be different. I would never run one, because I don't even like to
use them.
Yahoo irritates the snot out of me every time I try (generally
unsuccessfully) log on. All the useless graphics, and adds for consumer
CRAP flooding my connection just grates on my last nerve. You're paying
every time you log onto Yahoo, because they are selling YOU. You are
the product they sell to advertisers, and everything about their site
screams that at you. I appreciate a clean, uncluttered text interface
and I'm willing to pay a few dollars to keep it.
Matt deserves his due. I just object to the hyperbole.
Message 26
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Subject: | Power schematic for review |
Here's my plan for my Europa with a ULPower Ul260i powerplant. Comments
please. Thank you.
Vaughn Teegarden
Hoping to finish before I die
Message 27
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Subject: | Sensornetics Efs and Efis system, feedback |
needed
I saw a demo of this product at a show a few years back. Very good
display - very clear. Correct, as far as the EFIS is concerned it
doesn't take a rocket scientist to map a GPS signal. No value there,
everyone sells that these days.
If you need a very compact engine monitor, this is a good way to go. As
far as duplicating data how many engine monitors can one use? I now have
an AF3500, a D100 and a GRT EIS which all have their own purpose but can
display or add engine information for low cost and I don't need to punch
another hole in the panel.
If you just want to go for a cheap efis display, this might do, but
you'd better have a good gps signal to back it up. Add 12k for something
you can really trust and the value starts to disappear. It's probably
better to spend 2-5k on something you might need to rely on later. Also,
if you start listing the D100 features you'd have to replace with
something else, you'll be writing more checks.
I didn't see anything on battery backup?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt
Prather
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 3:22 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Sensornetics Efs and Efis system,
feedback needed
--> <mprather@spro.net>
While the sensornetics products look pretty slick, it doesn't appear
that they include any type of gyro capability. That probably represents
at least a portion of the cost savings.
Regards,
Matt-
> <mosquito-56@hotmail.com>
>
> I was going with the dynon d100-d180 combo when the guy from can-zac
> (sorry, terrible with names but he is very well know, loved the
> stratch building video) mentioned http://www.sensornetics.com/.
> I have looked at this product and it seems superior to the dynon
> and about 2k less expensive.
> I am leary of purchasing an unknown system. Can anyone give
> feedback on system and support from this company? Don
>
> --------
> Don Merritt- Laredo, Tx
> Apologies if I seem antagonistic.
> I believe in the freeflowing ideas and discussions between
> individuals for assistance in this thing we call life.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145459#145459
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Power schematic for review |
At 03:34 PM 11/12/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>Here's my plan for my Europa with a ULPower Ul260i powerplant. Comments
>please. Thank you.
Wondering why you left off OV protection?
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Problems are the price of progress. )
( Don't bring me anything but trouble. )
( Good news weakens me." )
( -Charles F. Kettering- )
----------------------------------------
Message 29
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Subject: | Re: unswitched input - PM1000II |
On my KMD150 King MFD there is a tone that sounds. I wired it into my PM
100II and it worked perfectly. It has been a few years since I did my
panel and I don't remember what pin I connected it to but the tone will
muffle when I speak into the mic so it is not the primary incoming circ
uit. I will look through my notes to see if I can narrow it down if you
wish.
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- rd2@evenlink.com wrote:
Has anyone tried to use the input for aircraft radio of PS Enginerring
PM1000II intercom (pins 17 and 4) as an unswitched/unmuted input for
warnings etc.?
If yes, what is the recommended resistor in line of the signal to the
intercom?
(PS Engineering is reluctant to give advice on the subject.)
Rumen
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
Message 30
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Subject: | Sensornetics Efs and Efis system, feedback needed |
Don,
I don't have any information on the Sensornetics equipment, however I did a
lot of research on EFIS systems before purchasing a GRT Sport System; I am
very happy with that decision. The other two majors are also very good (AFS,
Dynon).
I will pass along my experience; and that is you get what you pay for. If a
system is that much less than the competitors, I would ask myself why and
think long and hard about the value of their offering. Too many times on my
Bearhawk project I thought I'd save money choosing the least expensive
option only to have it cost me more in the long run. Now I look for overall
value instead of initial cost and that has worked well for me.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Mike Creek
____________________________________________________________________________
You Wrote:
I was going with the dynon d100-d180 combo when the guy from can-zac (sorry,
terrible with names but he is very well know, loved the stratch building
video) mentioned http://www.sensornetics.com/.
I have looked at this product and it seems superior to the dynon and
about 2k less expensive.
I am leary of purchasing an unknown system. Can anyone give feedback on
system and support from this company?
Don
--------
Don Merritt- Laredo, Tx
Apologies if I seem antagonistic.
I believe in the freeflowing ideas and discussions between individuals for
assistance in this thing we call life.
Message 31
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Subject: | Re: Power schematic for review |
This is the message That I got from ULPower when I asked them about
overvoltage protection.
"The Regulator has an internal over-voltage shunt built in."
Vaughn
---- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Power schematic for review
> <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>
> At 03:34 PM 11/12/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>Here's my plan for my Europa with a ULPower Ul260i powerplant. Comments
>>please. Thank you.
>
> Wondering why you left off OV protection?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------
> ( "Problems are the price of progress. )
> ( Don't bring me anything but trouble. )
> ( Good news weakens me." )
> ( -Charles F. Kettering- )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 32
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Subject: | Re: Power schematic for review |
At 10:25 PM 11/12/2007 -0500, you wrote:
><vaughnray@bvunet.net>
>
>This is the message That I got from ULPower when I asked them about
>overvoltage protection.
>
>"The Regulator has an internal over-voltage shunt built in."
??? Hmmmm . . . This would be a first for
PM rectifier/regulator products that I'm
aware of. Can you tell me the manufacturer
and part number for this device?
Bob . . .
Message 33
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Subject: | Re: Power schematic for review |
I will see if I can find that information.
Vaughn
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 11:34 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Power schematic for review
> <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>
> At 10:25 PM 11/12/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>><vaughnray@bvunet.net>
>>
>>This is the message That I got from ULPower when I asked them about
>>overvoltage protection.
>>
>>"The Regulator has an internal over-voltage shunt built in."
>
> ??? Hmmmm . . . This would be a first for
> PM rectifier/regulator products that I'm
> aware of. Can you tell me the manufacturer
> and part number for this device?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
Message 34
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Subject: | Power schematic for review |
Bob, Vaughn
Maybe they are referring to the regulator circuit itself but we need to
protect against the failure of this component.
Peter H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Tuesday, 13 November 2007 2:34 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Power schematic for review
<nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
At 10:25 PM 11/12/2007 -0500, you wrote:
><vaughnray@bvunet.net>
>
>This is the message That I got from ULPower when I asked them about
>overvoltage protection.
>
>"The Regulator has an internal over-voltage shunt built in."
??? Hmmmm . . . This would be a first for
PM rectifier/regulator products that I'm
aware of. Can you tell me the manufacturer
and part number for this device?
Bob . . .
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