Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:43 AM - Transponder King KX76A Pin Out Info Needed (Mike Hoffman)
2. 08:24 AM - Re: On-board battery charge controller (Allan Wright)
3. 09:12 AM - Re: On-board battery charge controller (Ron Quillin)
4. 10:13 AM - Re: On-board battery charge controller (S. Ramirez)
5. 10:49 AM - Re: On-board battery charge controller (Ken)
6. 01:43 PM - Re: Off to Columbus (panhandler1956)
7. 02:41 PM - King Handheld Adapter (H. M. Haught Jr.)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Transponder King KX76A Pin Out Info Needed |
I have a separate wire (pin 2) for my transponder dimmer light. I do not want to
hook it up to a dimmer but would like it to light up when I turn the unit on.
I do not have a pin out for my transponder and wonder if someone could tell
me how to correct this problem (Hook Pin 2 to what Pin).
Thanks [Question]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150022#150022
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: On-board battery charge controller |
Thanks for your comments.
The problem with the voltage regulator is not just the lack of
temperature compensation. It's that the regulator can't tell whether it
is bulk charging or float charging the battery, which require different
voltages. Typically, the regulator is set to a voltage that is good for
recharging but too high for float charging. Since our airplane usually
starts immediately, the actual time required to recharge the battery is
pretty minimal.
I believe that the Battery Tender product is not recommended for Gill
batteries, it has been known to boil off the electrolyte. There is a
warning on the Aircraft Spruce website not to use them for these batteries.
You make a good point about losing the battery's ability to absorb
transients.
Allan
>
> It seems it would be a lot simpler to replace the Voltage regulator with one
> that works. Get a B&C with temp compensation.
>
> Then just put the relatively inexpensive battery tender on when you are in
> the hanger.
>
> Batteries really like to get brought back to nominal charge with a good
> supply of current. Your circuit would need to control a wide range of
> currents (large for recharging [Constant Current, Floating Voltage], low
> [Constant Voltage, Variable Current] for maintenance). A alternator with a
> good voltage regulator, will handle battery charging just fine!
>
> Another negative of your approach is you take the battery out of the system
> as a device to overcome transients of over voltage. Now your main bus needs
> to handle ALL of the transients on the buss. A good battery is very good at
> absorbing transients that might otherwise eat up some of your electronics.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Allan
> Wright
> Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2007 2:23 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: On-board battery charge controller
>
> <allanwright@comcast.net>
>
> Recently, a friend and I bought an RV4, which had been built in 2001 but
> not flown much since. Almost immediately, we had to replace the battery
> (Gill G25S). I've been looking into battery chargers and desulfators to
> try to prolong the life of our new battery. I also read the excellent
> chapter on batteries in the AeroElectric Connection.
>
> Based on my reading and online research, it seems like we can buy a
> smart charger with a desulfator for somewhere between $80 and $160,
> which should do a pretty good job of maintaining the battery when it is
> on the ground. However, since our alternator voltage is on the high side
> (14.8 to 15.0 volts), the battery will be overcharged every time we fly
> the airplane, particularly when it is hot outside which is a lot of the
> time in California. Our voltage regulator is not adjustable, and I
> really don't want to replace it.
>
> Since I have quite a bit of experience with electronic design (digital
> and analog but not power circuits) I thought I might try to design a
> circuit that would control the charging of the battery both in-flight
> and on the ground. Conceptually, it would work like this:
> - the battery would still connect to the main bus through the master
> relay, but with a series diode so that current could only flow from the
> battery to the bus.
> - my circuit would also connect between the battery and the main bus,
> and would control the charge current flowing into the battery when the
> engine is running
> - initially, it would apply the full bus voltage to the battery, and
> monitor the charging current as well as the battery temperature
> - when the current drops below an adjustable limit such as 0.5 amps, it
> would lower the voltage to the temperature-compensated float voltage
> recommended by the battery manufacturer
> - on the ground, it could be connected to an external power supply to
> keep the battery charged
> - optionally, an on-board desulfator such as the one from Battery Minder
> could be added to the system, which would function both in-flight as
> well as on the ground
> - optionally, an LCD display could be added which would show the battery
> voltage, bus voltage, charge current and battery temperature.
>
> If it works, I could publish the circuit and maybe provide a PCB so that
> others could build it if they wanted to.
>
> I wonder if anyone has any comments on this idea? If it has been done
> before, I don't want to re-invent the wheel.
>
> Thanks.
> Allan
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: On-board battery charge controller |
At 08:23 12/2/2007, you wrote:
>I believe that the Battery Tender product is not recommended for
>Gill batteries, it has been known to boil off the electrolyte. There
>is a warning on the Aircraft Spruce website not to use them for
>these batteries.
The BatteryMINDer folks discontinued selling and no longer recommend
their non-temperature compensated unit for aviation AGM usage, and
now sell one that is temperature compensated.
http://www.thebatteryminder.com/12vaircraftbatteryminder-p-75.html
I spoke to them a few months ago, and for owners of the older unit,
the new compensated unit may be purchased at 50% off retail.
Ron Q.
Message 4
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| Subject: | On-board battery charge controller |
Ron,
This is a pretty good unit. Battery Minder sells the 12248-AA-S1 for
$159.95, and Battery Mart sells it for $139.95. Go figure (literally).
Here's their link:
http://www.batterymart.com/c-batteryminder-battery-chargers.html
Simon
Copyright C 2007
-----Original Message-----
At 08:23 12/2/2007, you wrote:
>I believe that the Battery Tender product is not recommended for
>Gill batteries, it has been known to boil off the electrolyte. There
>is a warning on the Aircraft Spruce website not to use them for
>these batteries.
The BatteryMINDer folks discontinued selling and no longer recommend
their non-temperature compensated unit for aviation AGM usage, and
now sell one that is temperature compensated.
http://www.thebatteryminder.com/12vaircraftbatteryminder-p-75.html
I spoke to them a few months ago, and for owners of the older unit,
the new compensated unit may be purchased at 50% off retail.
Ron Q.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: On-board battery charge controller |
I would suggest that the difference in battery life between a
sophisticated charger and a cheap automotive regulator is pretty much
negligible for most of us that fly less than 100 hours per year.
Certainly I'd like a bit less than the 15 volts mentioned. Yes I like
the minimal temperature compensation that most automotive regulators
have. Even with an RG battery I believe that temperature compensation is
more important than fancy charging profiles for most of us. Different
story for marine batteries and standby batteries. My recommendation is
fly it at least every two weeks and charge it if left more than a month
or two or just float it to minimize sulphation. But choose the simplest
and most reliable regulator that is available for reasonable money to
get the least cost of ownership. An extra year of battery life is going
to seem very unimportant if a one of a kind regulator dies far from home...
Ken
Allan Wright wrote:
> <allanwright@comcast.net>
>
> Thanks for your comments.
>
> The problem with the voltage regulator is not just the lack of
> temperature compensation. It's that the regulator can't tell whether
> it is bulk charging or float charging the battery, which require
> different voltages. Typically, the regulator is set to a voltage that
> is good for recharging but too high for float charging. Since our
> airplane usually starts immediately, the actual time required to
> recharge the battery is pretty minimal.
>
> I believe that the Battery Tender product is not recommended for Gill
> batteries, it has been known to boil off the electrolyte. There is a
> warning on the Aircraft Spruce website not to use them for these
> batteries.
>
> You make a good point about losing the battery's ability to absorb
> transients.
>
> Allan
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Off to Columbus |
Bob,
Thanks for your time and effort at Columbus this weekend. I was in attendance and
I really enjoyed it, especially day 2. I won't be wiring my aircraft for probably
at least another year, but between the seminar, your website, and this
excellent forum, I feel confident in moving into this phase of the build. Hope
you had an uneventful trip home and hope to see you again someday at OSH or other
function.
Regards,
--------
Brent O.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150077#150077
Message 7
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| Subject: | King Handheld Adapter |
My King KX99 handheld radio adapter for Headphone is messing up. I took
it to a radio shop and all the connections were resoldered, but it still
only works about half the time - I suspect several breaks in the wires.
A friend gave me his adapter that came from another type of radio. It
has the two plugs for the headset end but also has the push to talk
wired into the adapter (the King used a plug that inserts into on of
the headset plugs). The other end of the adapter has the correct small
mini plug for the "Phones" jack. However the other connector to the
radio was a screw on type. There are two wires in that cable, one
larger than the other, both with a center insulated wire and a
multistrand surrounding which I assume is shielding.
I know very little about wiring, as I am sure this message
demonstrates! My question is how do I wire the two wires to the
mid-sized miniplug to go to the KX 99? That mini-plug has a tip contact
area, a second contact are a little further back and the shaft contact
area which I assume is the ground.. The plug receptacle on the radio
is marked "MIC".
Anyone have a wiring diagram for the KX99 and adapter or can give me an
idea on how to wire the mini-plug to the mic receptacle?
M. Haught
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