Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:10 AM - Re: (Aaron Gustafson)
2. 06:09 AM - Re: Antenna Grounding (David & Elaine Lamphere)
3. 06:51 AM - Re: PIDG .25" Fast-On terminals (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 09:20 AM - Master switch (John Swanson)
5. 09:55 AM - Re: (Dj Merrill)
6. 10:19 AM - Wing Wire Sizing and Installation (messydeer)
7. 03:00 PM - Re: Jabiru 3300 Schematic (Terry Phillips)
8. 04:15 PM - Wing Wiring Clamps and Brackets (messydeer)
9. 05:31 PM - Re: Re: Jabiru 3300 Schematic (Rob Housman)
10. 08:53 PM - Re: Jabiru 3300 Schematic (Terry Phillips)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: ectric-List: |
I have the AEC book but don't remember this. Can you clue me in
>>>heat shrink and hot gun trick that you've published to make connections
>>><<<
Aaron G.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna Grounding |
I'm curious ...
if the body of the antenna in question is non-conductive, what difference
does it make to use the gasket or not? Wouldn't the grounding of the
outside/shield of the bnc connector be the important connection (if there is
to be one) with respect to mounting?? And how would that be established??
Thanking you in advance for your experienced technical response,
Dave L.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 10:09 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Antenna Grounding
> <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>
> At 09:09 PM 12/13/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>
>>Today I received my Comant CI-121 VHF Com antennas. They did not
>>include any installation instructions. There is some generic
>>installation instructions on their web site at:
>>http://www.comant.com/htmls/guide1.html
>>This indicates that the electical bonding to the aircraft ground is
>>important and can be accomplished by ensuring good metal-metal contact
>>with the aluminum skin, or with the mounting screws attaching to a
>>backing plate (not provided).
>>
>>Included with the antenna is a cork gasket that will eliminate any
>>metal-metal contact. The screws appear to connect only with a
>>fiberglass outer shell. So there will be no ground connection except
>>through the coax cable.
>>
>>How should this antenna really be installed on an aluminum aircraft ?
>
> Pitch the gasket. Don't scrape your paint except in immediate
> vicinity of mounting holes. These areas are marked (*) in
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Antenna/Antenna_Installation.gif
>
> where you will take advantage of the clamp-up forces on
> the mounting bolts. Sealing can be accomplished with a filet
> of RTV around the finished installation.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> ----------------------------------------)
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: PIDG .25" Fast-On terminals |
At 09:48 PM 12/13/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> > Why go soldered when it's so easy to go with
> > the REAL d-subs, those with machined, extractable
> > pins.
>
>
> Thanks! Might be my imagination, but I was thinking the soldered
> ones
>would have less chance of the pin coming loose from the housing, and
>I've worked with the solder ones before. I'm thinking of using the heat
>shrink and hot gun trick that you've published to make connections for
>trim servos and such.
Certainly, use which ever technology is the most
comfortable for you and/or matches your tools set.
But the neat thing about crimped pin d-subs is that
the military spec pins . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_4-quad-crimp.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_Machined_Pins.jpg
will fit in the el-cheeso connectors. Retention
is not a concern given that it takes a special
tool and a bit of skill to get those puppies
out.
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/D-Sub_Pin/Pin-Extraction.html
The really cool thing about this technology is
that you can get mil-spec wiring from the
best-pins-we-know-how-to-build without having
to pay the best-we-know-how-to-do prices for
housings.
I know of no other combination of high-end,
low-end components with such a pleasing outcome.
Low cost crimp tools are readily available too . .
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=15534+TL
you need these extraction tools too . . .
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=17124+TL
or
http://tinyurl.com/2tgs5t
Bob . . .
> > Molex makes a lot of 2, 3, and 4 pin connectors.
> > You'll need to be more specific.
>
> Something like these:
><http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103448&cp 32058.2032231.2032286&parentPage=family>
><http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103293&cp 32058.2032231.2032286&parentPage=family>
Okay, I've not looked closely at those lately
but I think RS stocks the AMP Mate-n-Lock series
of nylon rectangular connectors. You may already
have found at least one practical source for these
products. I don't recall if RS has the proper tool
to install them. If RS doesn't have one in the
store, try this one . .
http://tinyurl.com/ytkq2v
I just received one of these for a client and
it's a true "multi-tool" amongst the "butt-cheeks"
style crimping tools. It features dies small
enough to install the 28AWG pins on Molex C-grid
connectors and large enough to put spark-plug
terminals on your spark plug wires. It's
rather well made too.
There are a bucket full of choices in the
rectangular connects with b-crimp pins. Here's
one suite of choices:
http://tinyurl.com/2f98rg
Bob . . .
Message 4
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I need help in wiring a cessna style split Master Switch Batt/Alt
into Z16 Rotax system. I'm using a single buss.
Thanks
John S
CH701
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: ectric-List: |
Aaron Gustafson wrote:
>
>
> I have the AEC book but don't remember this. Can you clue me in
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/macservo/macservo.html>
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/macservo/macservo.html
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ
http://deej.net/sportsman/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
Message 6
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| Subject: | Wing Wire Sizing and Installation |
Hello :-)
I could use some help sizing the wires for my metal Sonex wing. I plan to install
them before closing. I will have landing lights plus wingtip nav/strobe/pos
lights. All but strobes are currently available in LEDs. If a xenon strobe is
used, the power supplies would be mounted in the wingtips.
I spoke with a person at aveousa.net who said they will have an all LED nav/strobe/pos
unit in production soon. No power supply needed! They also plan on getting
out an LED landing light system. AeroLEDs.com already has a couple LED landing
lights available called aerosun.
Im not sure if I will want a taxi light (pros, cons?) in addition to the landing
lights. If I dont add the extra wires now and find I want the taxi light, Id
mount it on the cowl, I suppose.
Temperature correction
Using the formula L1/L2 = (234 + T2)/254 where T2 the temperature difference between
20C and the highest temp to be encountered. Using a max temp of 60C gives
T2 = 40C. So L1/L2 = 1.08.
My round trip circuit length is 40 ft. To compensate for high temps, I need to
increase the length by 8% when using the AC43.13 charts. That would give an adjusted
length of 43 ft.
Nowhere have I accounted for the resistance increases of wire connections. Detachable
wings and fuses may effect this.
Graphs
I was told my loads would be intermittent, so I used fig 11-3. To get the single
wire amp rating, I used fig 11-4b. Altitude derating from fig 11-6 is .95 for
10,000 ft. For the bundle derating from fig 11-5, I used 100% loading for 8
wires, even though it would be much less.
Calcs
Here is what I got using all this info:
light type, amps, awg fig 11-3, amp rating fig 11-4b, altitude fig 11-6, bundle
fig 11-5, max amp,
led landing light 2 20 17 0.95 0.5 8.075
55w landing light 4.5 16 28 0.95 0.5 13.3
led nav 0.5 22 14 0.95 0.5 6.65
led pos 0.5 22 14 0.95 0.5 6.65
xenon strobe 3.6 18 24 0.95 0.5 11.4
led strobe 2 18 24 0.95 0.5 11.4
max grd 9.1 10 65 0.95 0.5 30.875
Sorry, I don't know how to make it a nice table, but there should be 7 columns.
It looks like all of the max amp ratings are well above the actual loads.
Wires
Ive been told 20 awg should be used instead of 22 for convenience in handling.
There are also 2 more wires needed if I wanted wig wag function in the led landing
lights, so 2 more 20 awg wires would be needed. So my bundle would consist
of one 16 awg for the landing light, four 20 awg for the wig wag and nav/pos
lights, one 18 awg for the strobe, and a 10 awg for grounding all of this. 7
wires total.
Bundling and Installation
Havent gotten very far into the actual process of how to bundle and support these
wires. Aeroelectric.com has a pic of wires going through an opening secured
by adel clamps to an L-bracket. Im thinking of something similar, routing the
wires through the leading edge lightening holes and using padded adel clamps.
The ribs are 10 apart. I dont know if any other stuff (lacing or ty wraps) would
be needed.
I would leave the ends of the wires dangling out the wing tip. The nav/strobe/pos
light would mount to the tip rib, which I wont make for some time. The landing
light would require the leading edge to be cutout and a bracket installed
between the ribs. It would be easier to do this before riveting the wing shut,
but cheaper to wait 3 years or so until assemble is almost complete. Wouldnt
want lights sitting around that long getting outdated and having their warranties
expire.
Well, thats about it for now. Any insight is appreciated.
Take care! :D
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152152#152152
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 3300 Schematic |
The standard alternator for the Jabiru 3300 is rated at 20-amps.
Would a solid state relay, such as the AEC3030 or the Perhellion PowerLink Jr.
III 35A Solid-State Relay, perform satisfactorily as the main battery contactor
in the Z21A design?
Has anyone tried using a solid state relay as a battery contactor?
--------
Terry Phillips
Corvallis, MT
ttp44<at>rkymtn.net
Zenith 601XL/Jab 3300 slow build kit - Tail feathers done; working on the wings.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152213#152213
Message 8
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| Subject: | Wing Wiring Clamps and Brackets |
I will be routing 7-10 wires through the lightening holes of the leading edge ribs
from the fuselage to the wingtip for landing (and maybe taxi) lights and nav/strobe/pos
lights. Gauges vary from 10-20, average size 18. Distance between
ribs is 10. The skins will be riveted shut after wiring installation. Terminal
connections are not an issue yet, since there will be no lights added until
the fuselage and rest of the plane near completion. Ill have a foot or so extra
dangling out the tip end, and maybe more in the fuselage for the detaching
wings of my Sonex.
The wires will stay more than 3/8 away from the edges of the lightening holes,
so no grommets will be needed. Attached is a pic from Aeroelectric.com that illustrates
this.
>From the pitot tube inward, these brackets will also support 2 nygon tubes for
the pitot tube. There will be a sag of In the wires with normal hand pressure
present between the rib mounted brackets. Padded Adel clamps MS-21919 will fasten
the wires to the bracket, tight enough to not allow the bundle to move through
the clamp when a slight axial pull is applied. Vinyl electrical tape could
be used between the bundle and clamp to achieve this fit, if necessary.
Tying or lacing seems unnecessary, since the supports are less than 12 inches apart.
But in another place in Chapter 11, AC43.13, it says ties should be installed
on service loop harnesses at 4 to 6-inch intervals. Im not sure what a
service loop harness is. The heading of this section looks like this: 10. SERVICE
LOOP HARNESSES (Plastic Tie Strips) Do I need a tie between the clamps, or
not? If ties are needed, would simply using short lengths of lacing tied in a
clove hitch and square knot be okay? Or would it have to be one continual length
of string?
Any suggestions appreciated!
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152230#152230
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/aeroelectriccom_pic_of_adel_clamped_bundle_through_hole_690.doc
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 3300 Schematic |
When I raised exactly the same point a couple of months ago in re: the Rotax
20A alternator, I was quickly reminded that the starter current is a wee bit
more than the 20A that the SS relay can handle.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, California
Europa XS Tri-Gear
S/N A070
Airframe complete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry
Phillips
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 2:58 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Jabiru 3300 Schematic
The standard alternator for the Jabiru 3300 is rated at 20-amps.
Would a solid state relay, such as the AEC3030 or the Perhellion PowerLink
Jr. III 35A Solid-State Relay, perform satisfactorily as the main battery
contactor in the Z21A design?
Has anyone tried using a solid state relay as a battery contactor?
--------
Terry Phillips
Corvallis, MT
ttp44<at>rkymtn.net
Zenith 601XL/Jab 3300 slow build kit - Tail feathers done; working on the
wings.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152213#152213
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 3300 Schematic |
> Fri Dec 14, 07 06:31 Post subject: Jabiru 3300 Schematic
> When I raised exactly the same point a couple of months ago in re: the Rotax
> 20A alternator, I was quickly reminded that the starter current is a wee bit
> more than the 20A that the SS relay can handle.
>
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rob Housman
Thanks, Rob.
Somehow I had it in my mind that the battery contactor just handled the alternator
charge current. Now it's clear why they call it a "battery contactor." Back
to the drawing board.
Terry
do not archive
--------
Terry Phillips
Corvallis, MT
ttp44<at>rkymtn.net
Zenith 601XL/Jab 3300 slow build kit - Tail feathers done; working on the wings.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152288#152288
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