Today's Message Index:
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1. 01:50 AM - Re: LED warning lights (Emond)
2. 02:32 PM - SD-8 (Richard Talbot)
3. 10:02 PM - Low voltage problem in a new plane (Les Goldner)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: LED warning lights |
Hi Bob
I have gone with Z-12 architecture and I am using B&C 60amp alternator and
their standby SB1B-14.
My Question: What is the recommended way to substitute normal 12 volt
warning lights for LED's??
Merry Christmas
Dave Emond
Message 2
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Hi Bob,
I have a couple of questions regarding your diagram for SD8 alternator self
excitation (Z-18).
You call out 12 AWG wiring between the dynamo and the regulator but the
dynamo already has a run of 16AWG attached to it by B&C. Everywhere else in
the diagram you specify 14 AWG. I assume you wish to minimise voltage drop
to the regulator? The only issue is that I don't have any 12 AWG wire.
What would you think is the maximum length of 14AWG that could be used here
and/or what are your design intentions as far as voltage drop?
I have ordered a 5A cct breaker for the SD8 previously. Is it OK to
substitute the 20AWG to the breaker for 18 AWG and use 5A cct breaker rather
than 2A?
Lastly, does anyone have pictures of their installation particularly the
mountings of diodes and resistors? The 2k7 resistors supplied to me are in
ceramic casing due to their power ratings. I am concerned about vibration
as the legs are very thin.
Thanks/Merry Christmas Everyone!
Richard
Message 3
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| Subject: | Low voltage problem in a new plane |
Robert,
The low-voltage buss indicator light stays on in my new plane and I would
really appreciate help to understand what to do about it.
I just finished building a Zenith 701 with a new 100-HP Rotax 912 using your
Aeroelectric's Z16 schematic. B&C did not have the exact Alternator OV
detection system shown in the schematic and sold me their BC207-1 over and
low voltage control module that has a warning light which stays on for under
and flashes for over-voltage. The B&C web site says that the low voltage
light goes on if the Buss voltage is under 12.5V. I wired this module
exactly as shown in Z16.
I flew the plane for the first time yesterday starting with a fully charged
battery and all seemed well. On the second flight that day I noticed that
the Alternator under voltage (UV) light came on with the engine idling when
the electric fuel pump was on. Since I don't need the pump (fuel is gravity
fed and the engine has a mechanical pump) I just turned it off and may have
advanced the throttle beyond its high 2000-RPM idle. The UV light went out
as I did this. I was happy and did my first solo flight in the plane for a
half hour without incident. Today, assuming the battery was fully charged (I
did not check it), I made some adjustments to the Dynon instrument for about
30 minutes (drawing about 1 to 2-amps), and started the engine for a few
more go-arounds in the pattern. The engine stared immediately so I guess the
battery was charged . However, the low-voltage light came on as soon as I
started-up and would not go off, even after a 10-minutes warm-up, much of it
above idle RPM, with almost nothing electric turned on. When I taxied back
to the hanger and shut down (with the UV light still on) my battery voltage
read 12.3V (this is a new battery).
There are probably a lot of things I need to check to isolate the problem
and need advice as to how to go about doing this. What is the most likely
cause? What should I check first and second, third. and how do I check them.
Here are some of my (probably dumb) more specific questions:
*
Is this a definite problem or will the this under voltage light come
on as described above when there are no problems?
*
There are two fuselinks attached to the Alternator OV/UV module. If
one of these blew or got disconnected would it cause this problem? Since
this is easy to check, I plan to look into this first.
*
Is it possible that the problem is in the voltage regulator? How do
you check this out and determine if the regulator and not the alternator is
the cause?
*
I'm not certain how to check the alternator or AC voltage. First, is
this a likely source of the problem? Second, if so how do I check the
alternator output? If the alternator is bad I probably will have to remove
the engine and find a "real" repairman to fix it, so I hope the problem lies
elsewhere.
Any help would really be appreciated.
Best regards and happy holiday,
Les
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