AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Thu 12/27/07


Total Messages Posted: 12



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:48 AM - Noisy Microphone (Chris Byrne)
     2. 05:27 AM - Re: Noisy Microphone (Bob Christensen)
     3. 07:47 AM - Re: DMC Daniels AFM8 - Positioners (Ron Quillin)
     4. 08:44 AM - Metcal Soldering Iron (Dennis Johnson)
     5. 10:13 AM - Re: Compass Requirements in Experimental Aircraft (updated) (Tim Olson)
     6. 10:13 AM - Cabin Heater and Relay (Tony Gibson)
     7. 11:05 AM - Re: DMC Daniels AFM8 - Positioners (James Quinn)
     8. 11:21 AM - Re: Compass Requirements in Experimental Aircraft (updated) (Eric M. Jones)
     9. 02:35 PM - Re: Metcal Soldering Iron (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    10. 03:13 PM - Re: Metcal Soldering Iron (Dennis Johnson)
    11. 07:16 PM - Powering the Ignition and Fuel Injectors on Egg. Subaru (Allen Fulmer)
    12. 07:49 PM - Re: Powering the Ignition and Fuel Injectors on Egg. Subaru (mikef)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:48:15 AM PST US
    From: "Chris Byrne" <jack.byrne@bigpond.com>
    Subject: Noisy Microphone
    Listers. I am having trouble getting an audible transmission. I have wonderful reception. SL30 and a GNC300XL. Have tried a couple of headsets, both with muffs on the. Clarity Aloft Halo and a Marv Golden ANR. My transmissions are fine a low airspeed and low RPM. However the cockpit noise at higher airspeeds and RPM seems to be getting picked up by the microphones. The intercom transmissions (GMA340) are still fine at high speed and RPM. It is not electrical interference, at least I don't think it is. I am sure it is back ground noise. Cozy MIV at anything above 120kts. Two questions. How do I get my transmissions to be readable, at the moment at high speed they are not. I have reports from other AC and I can hear the background noise in the side tone. And is it possible that the intercom is clear but the radio transmission is not or am I imagining this. I can try and reduce a few air leaks in the canopy but I don't think I can get it that much quieter. Chris Byrne SYDNEY


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:27:08 AM PST US
    From: "Bob Christensen" <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Noisy Microphone
    If the intercom audio is clear then the radio audio should be OK . . . what are you using for an antenna? Regards, Bob in SE Iowa On Dec 27, 2007 2:35 AM, Chris Byrne <jack.byrne@bigpond.com> wrote: > jack.byrne@bigpond.com> > > Listers. > > I am having trouble getting an audible transmission. > I have wonderful reception. > SL30 and a GNC300XL. > Have tried a couple of headsets, both with muffs on the. > Clarity Aloft Halo and a Marv Golden ANR. > > My transmissions are fine a low airspeed and low RPM. > > However the cockpit noise at higher airspeeds and RPM seems to be getting > picked up by the microphones. The intercom transmissions (GMA340) are > still > fine at high speed and RPM. > It is not electrical interference, at least I don't think it is. I am sure > it is back ground noise. Cozy MIV at anything above 120kts. > > Two questions. > How do I get my transmissions to be readable, at the moment at high speed > they are not. I have reports from other AC and I can hear the background > noise in the side tone. > And is it possible that the intercom is clear but the radio transmission > is > not or am I imagining this. > > I can try and reduce a few air leaks in the canopy but I don't think I can > get it that much quieter. > > > Chris Byrne > SYDNEY > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:47:54 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: DMC Daniels AFM8 - Positioners
    From: Ron Quillin <rjquillin@gmail.com>
    At 17:43 12/26/2007, you wrote: > Ron, > > If you'll send me one, I'll post it to the website. > > Bob . . . The number of requests prompted me to again search for the link. I think I found it... https://www.dmctools.com/_pdf/Catalogs/ConnectorToolingGuide.pdf Also the DMC site has some new tricks to help identify connectors, pins and tooling since the last time I visited. Ron Q.


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:44:26 AM PST US
    From: "Dennis Johnson" <pinetownd@volcano.net>
    Subject: Metcal Soldering Iron
    I have a Metcal soldering iron I bought used on eBay and it works great. I believe it heats it by sending a high frequency current to the tip of the iron. (It may also be high voltage, but I don't know.) If I'm soldering the end of a wire is there any chance that the high frequency signal from the tip of the iron will damage an expensive piece of hardware that's attached to the other end of the wire I'm soldering? Just curious, Dennis Johnson Lancair Legacy, now over 100 hours flight time


    Message 5


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    Time: 10:13:18 AM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Re: Compass Requirements in Experimental Aircraft
    (updated) So one of the morals to the story is that magnetic base antennas have no place in an airplane. They won't just screw with your nearby compass but can screw with your much more sensitive EFIS magnetometer as well. Any antenna with a magnet should be cut apart and have it's magnet yanked...if you're going to use it in the plane. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Eric Newton wrote: > Hi All, > > Well its been kind of slow so I thought I would give a little update > regarding my research into whether or not a "wet" compass is required if > you have a EFIS with a remote external compass feeding a heading to it. > After much research and searching archives of all of the various > airplane groups that I belong to, I finally decided to just mount an > airpath compass on my glareshield and be done with it. I said to myself > - "no sense getting into a pissing match with the DAR over a $160 > instrument, just put it in and forget it". > > So I purchased the Airpath C2400 lighted compass. It arrived sometime > last week and over Christmas vacation, I finally got out to the airport > to see how it would work with my Bearhawk. I had heard that some people > were having as much as 30 degrees of installation errors in a Bearhawk > with a glareshield mounted compass. > > So there I was standing beside my airplane which was pointed in a > generally northward direction. I held the compass out in front of me > and it read 358 degrees. I then reached inside and sat it on the > glareshield centered and as far back from the "V" tubes as I could. It > read "N" 360 degrees. PERFECT, only about 2 degrees off right??? WRONG!!! > > I then grabbed the tail and swung it around to point the nose in a > generally south direction. Poked my head inside for a look at the > compass and . . . What's this???? It still says "N" 360 degrees!!! I > grabbed the compass out of the airplane and once again stood next to the > airplane and sure enough the compass now read 178 degrees. Put back on > the glare shield and . . . "N" 360 degrees. > > So there I stood, scratching my head, thinking about what I had done to > cause what Erbman would call a "Gross Buffoonery". As I was standing > looking at things, I saw the problem. My lightening fast brain finally > figured out what I had done. When I mounted my XM satellite radio, I > didn't want to run the external antenna all the way outside so I had > simply mounted it up near the windshield right between the "V" braces. > The antenna has a strong magnet built in to allow it to stick to the > roof of your car. Of course it didn't stick to my aluminum boot cowl so > I had just double stick velcroed it in place. > > The wire running from the antenna to the Xm radio on the right side of > the instrument panel was included in the main wiring harness and is well > wrapped within the bundle of wires running from the comm and intercom > system. Removing and replacing the XM satellite antenna would take a > long time laying on my back under the instrument panel cutting every tie > wrap I made. > > So I decided to do what I should have done in the first place. I called > my DAR to ask him his opinion on the magnetic direction indicator in the > Dynon. I described the Dynon D100 EFIS with its remote magnetic compass > feeding heading information to the Dynon D100. He asked me again what I > was building. I said a Bearhawk. He said "That's Experimental right?" > I said "yes it is". He said "Well then, it falls under FAR part 91.205 > which specifically says "Magnetic direction indicator" . He said as long > as the Dynon receives, and displays, a heading based on the Earth's > magnetic field, then it qualifies as a "magnetic heading indicator" as > required in Part 91.205 and he doesn't see why I would need an old > whiskey compass littering up my glareshield. > > We talked a bit about redundency and when I told him about my battery > backup of the Dynon as well as a GPS with battery backup as well as a > handheld radio with a VOR indicator, he was more than satisfied. > > So problem solved. I called Aircraft Spruce for an RMA number and as of > this morning, the compass is on its way back to Corona, CA and I'll have > a credit for it. Guess I could have saved some shipping $ by simply > calling the DAR first. > > Lesson learned and shared. > > Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS > BH #682- Mississippi Mudbug > BEARHAWK BUILDER'S MANUALS > http://mybearhawk.com > > * > > > *


    Message 6


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    Time: 10:13:28 AM PST US
    From: Tony Gibson <umgibso1@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Cabin Heater and Relay
    Happy Holidays everyone, a late response on my part to thank all those that responded to my inquiry regarding the 40A relay and AS cabin heater. Unfortunately I had already ordered the cabin heater, it arrived the next day and I tested it on the bench.... the reply that waving a lit cigarette around the cabin was more effective was dead on. I couldn't believe it!? The 6" wires got warmer than the heater!? I should have known the group could provide some insight prior to ordering. I was anxious to fill space in the front of the cabin (?!) and help my tail heavy W&B problem at the same time. Anyways, I returned it to Aircraft Spruce and when the time comes I will look into heated seat covers or heated clothing as suggested.... makes sense to put the heat where you need it. ;) Thanx again for all the replies, Tony Gibson --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.


    Message 7


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    Time: 11:05:16 AM PST US
    From: "James Quinn" <jquinn3@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: DMC Daniels AFM8 - Positioners
    Ron, Would like to get a copy of your pdf file - jquinn3@gmail.com Thanks, On Dec 26, 2007 7:24 PM, Ron Quillin <rjquillin@gmail.com> wrote: > > At 16:40 12/26/2007, you wrote: > > >The crimp tool I purchased came with a K1-S positioner. Does anyone > happen > >to know what this positioner is used for? > > Patrick, > I've got a ~3M pdf file that lists DMC tooling and pins. It's > searchable and there were 27 hits for K1S. > Don't remember where I got it and due to size I'm hesitant to post > for those on dial-up. > If you and your ISP's email system can handle the size, I'll fire it > off to you. > > Ron Q. > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 11:21:45 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Compass Requirements in Experimental Aircraft (updated)
    From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
    Let's not forget the charming Gordon Baxter (Bax Seat) tale about getting into an airplane that had seen better days, taking off northbound, flying north by the the compass, landing on a north-pointing runway. and finding out later that the compass hadn't worked at all. -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones@charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=154557#154557


    Message 9


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    Time: 02:35:49 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Metcal Soldering Iron
    At 08:01 AM 12/27/2007 -0800, you wrote: >I have a Metcal soldering iron I bought used on eBay and it works >great. I believe it heats it by sending a high frequency current to the >tip of the iron. (It may also be high voltage, but I don't know.) If >I'm soldering the end of a wire is there any chance that the high >frequency signal from the tip of the iron will damage an expensive piece >of hardware that's attached to the other end of the wire I'm soldering? > >Just curious, >Dennis Johnson >Lancair Legacy, now over 100 hours flight time No. You're correct that the power supply for the Metcal products is a "radio frequency transmitter" with 30-50 watts of output at about 500 KHz as I recall. The heaters located at the tips of the irons go into a high-impedance state at RF frequencies at their calibrated temperatures. Thus two very important features of top-drawer soldering tools takes place in these products. Temperature sensing and control right at the tip and concentration of energy conversion to heat right at the tip. There is no risk to sensitive components from what's going on inside these tools. Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 10


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    Time: 03:13:03 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Metcal Soldering Iron
    From: "Dennis Johnson" <pinetownd@volcano.net>
    There is no risk to sensitive components from what's going on inside these tools. Hi Bob, Thanks for the speedy reply! Dennis Johnson do not archive Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=154604#154604


    Message 11


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    Time: 07:16:04 PM PST US
    From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer@charter.net>
    Subject: Powering the Ignition and Fuel Injectors on Egg. Subaru
    Hello Bob, Would you please take a look at the included quote from the newly released installation manual for the Eggenfellner 6 Cylinder Subaru conversion? In a nutshell, he wants a 20 amp circuit separate from the ECU and #1 Fuel Pump. Since my battery busses are located in the rear next to the batteries, should I just run another circuit (20amp fuse) along with the ECU and #1 Fuel Pump circuits? Or what do you suggest? See if my dilemma is justified after reading the following: ===================================================================== QUOTE from Egg. manual: E6-Series Engine Wiring 1) RED - 20A EFI Power. This wire provides power for your Electronic Fuel Injection system. This includes the ignition coils and fuel injector coils. This circuit is critical and must obtain power from the "Essential Equipment Bus". In other words, no matter which battery is supplying power, this circuit must remain powered. Use a 20 Amp resetable, aircraft-quality circuit breaker. Having said all this, it is not strictly necessary for this circuit to be switched on and off along with the ignition switch at all. If the ECU is powered down, then it will never trigger the coils and this circuit will sit idle, consuming no power. However, most builders will prefer to have this circuit "switched" in order to minimize the number of "always hot" circuits in the aircraft. This requires that whatever switch or relay is controlling this circuit, be capable of reliably handling the 20 Amp load. END QUOTE QUOTE: 2) RED - 5A ECU Power. This wire provides power for the ECU, the computer that controls your engine. This circuit is critical and must obtain power from the "Essential Equipment Bus". In other words, no matter which battery is supplying power, this circuit must remain powered. Use a 5 Amp resetable, aircraft-quality circuit breaker. This circuit should be switched by your Ignition Switch. Turning off this circuit effectively shuts down the engine. END QUOTE ==================================================================== As I understand Z19RB design, it seeks to feed essential engine power from whichever Battery Bus is "hot" through the Engine Primary and Engine Secondary OFF/ON switches and the associated bridge rectifiers. With the batteries in the back, the switches and rectifiers would be located on and/or near the instrument panel. That takes care of the ECU and #1 Fuel Pump but what about the ignition coils and fuel injectors which Eggenfellner calls the "Electronic Fuel Injection System"? I seem to remember that you do not recommend feeding any load greater than 10A from the Battery busses. Hence the question, how to feed the "Electronic Fuel Injection system" from a specified 20A source? Do we want a pair of Three Pole/DT switches and another bridge rectifier w/heat sink for the 20A load? Or another pair of switches (possibly named "Ignition Primary OFF/ON" and "Ignition Secondary OFF/ON") and a bridge rectifier with appropriately sized heat sink? Or do we need one or two relays at the batteries just for the ignition power? Thanks, Allen Fulmer RV7 Wiring Eggenfellner Subaru H6 turbo N808AF reserved Alexander City, AL 256-329-2001


    Message 12


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    Time: 07:49:44 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Powering the Ignition and Fuel Injectors on Egg.
    Subaru
    From: "mikef" <mikefapex@gmail.com>
    Allen, Those are great questions, I do hope Bob will weigh in. I am working a very similar system (Z19 RB) with my Suzuki engine, using the RotaryAviation (RA) EC2 engine controller. Coils at 20 Amps, EFI controller at 5 Amps, Injectors at 10 Amps. RA advises not running the injector and coil wires together, or with other wires, due to the high current pulses generated by the EFI controller. That makes things a bit tricky with my pusher aircraft, as batteries, coils, injectors are all in the rear, and switches are up front. I was toying with using relays to in the rear to control the coils/injectors, switched from the front. Thinking this keeps the high current pulses back there. Anyway, good questions. And good luck on your project. Mike Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=154655#154655




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