Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:47 AM - Re: RYO Marker Beacon Antenna (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 04:48 AM - Re: RYO Marker Beacon Antenna (Dale Ellis)
3. 05:19 AM - Re: Z-13/8 question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 05:19 AM - Re: Wireless Thermometers (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 05:39 AM - Re: Re: Firewall penetration (bob noffs)
6. 06:13 AM - Re: Wireless Thermometers (FLAGSTONE)
7. 07:26 AM - Firewall penetration (James H Nelson)
8. 08:33 AM - Re: Firewall penetration (Bruce Gray)
9. 11:05 PM - SL30 nav com radio (Jeffrey W. Skiba)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RYO Marker Beacon Antenna |
At 12:50 PM 2/1/2008 -0900, you wrote:
>
>Bob Archer makes one out of copper tape and it is 40 inches long.
>Apparently that is the proper length for 1/4 wavelength. Here is a link to
>a document with information about his antennas for composite airplanes and
>contact info for him. He might even be willing to talk to you about making
>your own even though he'll be talking himself out of a sale.
>
>Mike
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems
>Davis
>Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 11:27 AM
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: RYO Marker Beacon Antenna
>
>
>I have been told that you can make an acceptable marker beacon antenna
>from a stripped piece of approx 40" coax, mounted horizontally within a
>fiberglass wingtip. So my questions are -
>1. Is 40" the correct length?
yes. 30" works too, 50" also works. Marker
beacons are an exceedingly robust systems.
You're flying over the antenna at less than
1000 feet and the transmitter is on the order
of 2-5 watts. A HUGE signal compared to tapping
an RCO out 100 miles or flying a high-altitude
VOR at the fringes of its service area.
>2. Is it acceptable to strip only the outer coax covering and the shield
>material leaving the insulator in place which surrounds the center
>conductor?
yes.
It's a low-risk experiment. Get close and go fly it.
Do some passes over the markers at 1500' AGL and
see how the lights behave.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RYO Marker Beacon Antenna |
Why go through the effort to make/mount a marker beacon antenna when marker beacons
are being decommissioned rather rapidly?
Dale
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
>From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>Sent: Feb 1, 2008 3:26 PM
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: RYO Marker Beacon Antenna
>
>
>I have been told that you can make an acceptable marker beacon antenna
>from a stripped piece of approx 40" coax, mounted horizontally within a
>fiberglass wingtip. So my questions are -
>1. Is 40" the correct length?
>2. Is it acceptable to strip only the outer coax covering and the shield
>material leaving the insulator in place which surrounds the center
>conductor?
>
>Deems Davis
>>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Z-13/8 question |
At 11:09 AM 1/31/2008 -0800, you wrote:
>I'm planning on initially equipping my RV-7 for day/night VFR flight with
>one magneto and one Lightspeed electronic ignition, turn coordinator, one
>VHF radio and transponder. Once I get comfortable in the airplane (and
>the budget allows), I plan on buying all the goodies to make her an IFR
>bird and re-doing the panel with a GNS-430 and Dynon D-100 (or similar).
>
>Bob describes the Z-13/8 architecture as "dual-layer" so my plan was to
>build the "Z-13" part of the system initially and leave the "/8" part of
>it out until I get to the point where my bank account and experience allow
>me to make her IFR. It looks like everything on the "/8" side of the
>system is in front of the firewall (except for the wires running to the
>"AUX ALT" switch and the additional loadmeter/ammeter) so I'm thinking
>this is a good plan. By buying big enough fuse blocks for future
>expension and sizing the main alternator appropriately, it seems
>doable. Anyone ever do this, think about doing it or have advice one way
>or the other? Please feel free to shoot holes in my thinking. I did a
>search on the site but came up empty. Thanks.
Sounds like a plan . . .
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Wireless Thermometers |
At 03:35 AM 2/1/2008 -0800, you wrote:
>Hi:
>
>Does anyone know if using a wireless thermometer or temperature probe in
>your plane causes any problems whatsoever while flying.
>
>Thanks
>
It won't be a problem. Bluetooth accessories are outside
the frequencies of interest for aircraft also.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall penetration |
i guess i have to ask why you cant slip a fire sleeve over this fitting and
the wire and use hose clamps to hold it in place. if the sleeve protects
gasoline in a rubber line it should work with these fittings. these fittings
are very compact and easy to work with and sorry to say dirt cheap.
bob noffs
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 7:33 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Firewall penetration
> Just FWIW, I posted a similar firewall penetration a couple years ago
> using
> the cheap pot metal electrical connectors shown in the attachment. I was
> cautioned to AVOID any of the fittings that were made of cast steel
> compounds (gray looking pot metal material) because they would actually
> burn
> very well under modest flame. Was told to ONLY use the steel tube/forged
> fittings which were much more expensive but would not burn.
>
> I did not put a torch on them to find out but thought I might mention it.
> Pictures of the rejected fittings attached.
>
> Just what I was told on this list back then.
>
> Bill S
> 7a
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken
> Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 8:52 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Firewall penetration
>
>
> FWIW I ran everything including starter fat wire through the same opening
> which is a hardware store steel towel rack/grab bar elbow. It really
> doesn't
> matter if an engine sensor is misreading a bit during cranking. At idle on
> the ground I can hear a bit of electronic ignition noise from one
> ignition.
> No alternator noise at all so I'd do it again.
> I don't have mags.
> Ken
>>
>>
>>> Be aware of possible impact on engine sensor data if sensor leads are
>>> too close to high current (fat) wires.
>>> Dale Ensing
>>>
>>
>>
>> Hadn't thought of this. I had planned on running my main bus and e-bus
> feed lines through this pass through (along with all engine sensors). No
> really fat wires (like starter or B-lead) but would there be enough
> current
> here for me to need to make a separate penetration to keep these wires
> separate?
>>
>> Really appreciate all the input so far. If I actually do need to make 2
> more penetrations then maybe this is worthwhile ($7 vs $100).
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> --------
>> Jim McChesney
>> Tucson, AZ
>> RV-7A Finishing Kit
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Wireless Thermometers |
Thanks all.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2008 5:15 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wireless Thermometers
<nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>
> At 03:35 AM 2/1/2008 -0800, you wrote:
>
> >Hi:
> >
> >Does anyone know if using a wireless thermometer or temperature probe in
> >your plane causes any problems whatsoever while flying.
> >
> >Thanks
> >
>
> It won't be a problem. Bluetooth accessories are outside
> the frequencies of interest for aircraft also.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Firewall penetration |
Bill and others,
IMHO, I went thru the same thing several years ago. I changed my
heater box for the same reason. I now have stainless steel in place of
the aluminum unit. I went to the aviation section of McMaster Carr and
bought a stainless steel handicap grab bar. It was a short unit but it
worked out very nice, the flange is welded on and I used the 90* end.
This allowed me to get all the wires forward. It is amazing how many
wires go there from the instrumentation we use today. I then used two
fire shield lengths / diameters to close off the opening. I am going to
fill any remaining space with RTV copper hi-temp silicone today. I will
use safety wire to provide the remaining squeeze to seal it wiring to the
fire shield. You can see it on my web site
www.websites.expercraft.com/jimn . That may help you in the decision to
keep the unwanted stuff up front and not on your feet.
Jim Nelson
N15JN
RV9 A
Message 8
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| Subject: | Firewall penetration |
Try, http://websites.expercraft.com/jimn/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=11035
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James H
Nelson
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2008 10:24 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Firewall penetration
Bill and others,
IMHO, I went thru the same thing several years ago. I changed my
heater box for the same reason. I now have stainless steel in place of
the aluminum unit. I went to the aviation section of McMaster Carr and
bought a stainless steel handicap grab bar. It was a short unit but it
worked out very nice, the flange is welded on and I used the 90* end.
This allowed me to get all the wires forward. It is amazing how many
wires go there from the instrumentation we use today. I then used two
fire shield lengths / diameters to close off the opening. I am going to
fill any remaining space with RTV copper hi-temp silicone today. I will
use safety wire to provide the remaining squeeze to seal it wiring to the
fire shield. You can see it on my web site
www.websites.expercraft.com/jimn . That may help you in the decision to
keep the unwanted stuff up front and not on your feet.
Jim Nelson
N15JN
RV9 A
Message 9
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| Subject: | SL30 nav com radio |
I have a power question:
The sl30 can accept power either 14v or 28 v
There is also a power input for Nav and com
You CAN power just the nav line and get the nav functions to work.
You get a message on the display that says com failure
However you can NOT power just the com portion as the display is blank.
Question is:
Can you power the com portion with 28 volts and the nav portion with 14
volts at the same time??
I ask since this sl30 will be connected to a DC50 comdat coupler and EX500
which will both be running off a booster which is taking the aircraft normal
14 volt system to 28 to get the ex500 powered along with the dc50.
The DC50 box stress to power the unit from the same breaker as the com radio
since transmitting with the dc50 unpowered will cause damage to the unit.
However if I lose the booster I would still like to have the nav portion of
the sl30 if possible.
I would think it would work but do not really want to find out the hard way
that it does not !!
Thanks
Jeff.
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