Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:27 AM - Slick 6393 ()
2. 07:48 AM - Re: EIS resistor (Mike)
3. 08:14 AM - Re: EIS resistor (Sam Marlow)
4. 11:08 AM - Re: NEARLY ready for first flight (Cassius Smith)
5. 11:12 AM - Re: NEARLY ready for first flight (Cassius Smith)
6. 05:20 PM - Re: EIS resistor (Mike)
7. 05:37 PM - Noisy Turn Coordinator (rveighta)
8. 05:55 PM - Garmin396/SL40 interface (Dale Ensing)
9. 06:17 PM - Nanchang CJ6 Overvoltage Protector (Craig Winkelmann, CFI)
10. 10:27 PM - Re: NEARLY ready for first flight (Ed Holyoke)
Message 1
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2/20/2008
Bon jour, Buoguy, My Slick manual L-1363 shows the 6393 as having a second
set of points. This would be the retard breaker points making the magneto
suitable for using a starting vibrator.
I am not familiar with the Bendix starting vibrator 10-176487-241B and do
not have any Bendix magneto or vibrator manuals, but I see no reason why it
would not be suitable.
If you would like further confirmation you might email:
john@sacskyranch.com
and ask John.
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
-------------------------------------------------------------
Time: 01:31:51 AM PST US
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Slick 6393
From: "bouguy" <boullu.guy@libertysurf.fr>
Hi ,
i have a quite new Bendix starting vibrator 10-176487-241B and
i would like to know if it is possible to use it with the 6393 left SLICK
magneto
of the IO540C4B5 of my Barracuda .
thanks for reply ,
Boullu guy .
Message 2
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Sam,
What is the problem you are having with your EIS 6000? If it is with
the RPM indication, are you driving the RPM from the P-lead? If so what
resistor value are you currently using? If you are using a resistor in
the range required and it is not working you should call Grand Rapids.
There is a mod that is required on some 6000=92s which calls for the
removal of a resister internally. It is a simple process and they can
walk you through it or you could send it back assuming this is the
issue.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam
Marlow
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2008 11:58 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: EIS resistor
I'm having trouble with my EIS 6000. Thinking about changing the 27k
resistor, but I can't find one. My question is, can I put a 22k and a
5.5k in series instead?
Thanks,
Sam Marlow
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List"http://www.matroni
cs.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribu
tion
10/2/2007 11:10 AM
10/2/2007 11:10 AM
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: EIS resistor |
It's puzzling, because it worked fine for 6 months, then the mag died.
When I reinstalled the repaired mag, the tach started wondering, mostly
at higher RPMs.
It's the 27k resistor, supplied by Grand Rapids. I sent a Demo log to
G/R this morning, hope to here something soon.
I did the mod on the circuit board, before first flight, if that's the
one your referring to.
Mike wrote:
>
> Sam,
>
>
>
> What is the problem you are having with your EIS 6000? If it is with
> the RPM indication, are you driving the RPM from the P-lead? If so
> what resistor value are you currently using? If you are using a
> resistor in the range required and it is not working you should call
> Grand Rapids. There is a mod that is required on some 6000s which
> calls for the removal of a resister internally. It is a simple
> process and they can walk you through it or you could send it back
> assuming this is the issue.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Sam Marlow
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 19, 2008 11:58 AM
> *To:* aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: EIS resistor
>
>
>
> I'm having trouble with my EIS 6000. Thinking about changing the 27k
> resistor, but I can't find one. My question is, can I put a 22k and a
> 5.5k in series instead?
> Thanks,
> Sam Marlow
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> * - The AeroElectric-List Email Forum -*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> * --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List*
> **
> * - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -*
> **
> * --> http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> * - List Contribution Web Site -*
> * Thank you for your generous support!*
> * -Matt Dralle, List Admin.*
> * --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> **
> * *
>
> 10/2/2007 11:10 AM
>
> 10/2/2007 11:10 AM
> *
>
>
> *
Message 4
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| Subject: | NEARLY ready for first flight |
OK - here's what we did...
I looked carefully at the installation and troubleshooting guides which
were pointed out to me (THANKS) and I realized that we may not have been
connecting the ALT Field. AEC Z-11 plan for BAT/ALT MASTER switch is a
B&C 2-10 switch with two distinct positions - 1/2 way up is battery on,
full up is battery and alt field on. When I looked through the inst and
t/shooting guides, they mention making sure you have voltage on pin 6
within 0.5V of the bus voltage. When I looked at the diagram (see
attached) I realized that the pilot may not have been throwing the
switch all the way up after engine start.
We gave this a try and presto - 14.1-14.2V. Low Voltage stopped
flashing.
HOWEVER the low voltage lamp stayed LIT at 1600RPM - does this mean I
may have a bad crimp? Or do I just need to adjust it down on the LR3C?
Cassius Smith
-----------------
"With the possible exception of the equator, everything begins
somewhere."
C. S. Lewis
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: NEARLY ready for first flight
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
> Date: Tue, February 19, 2008 11:00 pm
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>
>
>
> At 07:16 PM 2/19/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>
> >
> >Hello all,
> >I'm new to the Matronics list. My son is building an RV7-A, and we used
> >the Aero Electric Connection figure Z-11 with very few modifications
> >(added an SPST switch in front of the Alt. Hold; that was about all). We
> >are using the B&C LR-3 alternator controller, and we used an LED in the
> >panel for the low voltage indicator.
> >
> >My son cranked the engine the first time and just let it idle a couple
> >of minutes. Voltage was indicated on the Dynon EMS-10 as 12.1V, which
> >I'm told is low. We asked around and were told by a couple of folks that
> >12.1V is normal for idle speeds; it will pick up at higher RPM runups.
> >The low volt indicator was flashing the whole time.
> >
> >Today, we're about ready for first flight. My son did a 1600 RPM runup
> >to check mags, oil pressure, stuff like that. HOWEVER the low voltage
> >light never stopped blinking. He didn't notice the exact voltage
> >reading. When he turned on all the lights, the current draw went into
> >the red.
> >
> >Here's my question - how do I start trying to debug this problem? Do I
> >suspect the alternator, the LR-3, or what? It was about 30 degrees at
> >the hangar when he shut the engine down, so I haven't had the chance to
> >check the wiring connectivity yet, and I know that's the first step.
> >
> >The EMS is connected to the main power bus, so it's not behind the
> >bridge diode that protects the E-bus.
> >
> >Any suggestions?
> >
> >Cassius Smith
>
> There's a troubleshooting procedure for the LR-3 published
> at:
>
> http://bandc.biz/Downloads.html
>
> Pick the one appropriate to the model you have.
>
> There's a general troubleshooting guide for
> externally regulated alternators in Appendix
> Z to the AeroElectric Connection which you
> can download at:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev11/AppZ_R11M.pdf
>
> See Note 8 on Page Z-7.
>
> Let us know what you find.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------)
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | NEARLY ready for first flight |
And HERE's the attachment - sorry everyone!
-----------------
"With the possible exception of the equator, everything begins
somewhere."
C. S. Lewis
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: NEARLY ready for first flight
> From: Cassius Smith <cassius@cassius.org>
> Date: Wed, February 20, 2008 1:02 pm
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Cc: tvrvbg@yahoogroups.com
>
>
> OK - here's what we did...
> I looked carefully at the installation and troubleshooting guides which
> were pointed out to me (THANKS) and I realized that we may not have been
> connecting the ALT Field. AEC Z-11 plan for BAT/ALT MASTER switch is a
> B&C 2-10 switch with two distinct positions - 1/2 way up is battery on,
> full up is battery and alt field on. When I looked through the inst and
> t/shooting guides, they mention making sure you have voltage on pin 6
> within 0.5V of the bus voltage. When I looked at the diagram (see
> attached) I realized that the pilot may not have been throwing the
> switch all the way up after engine start.
>
> We gave this a try and presto - 14.1-14.2V. Low Voltage stopped
> flashing.
>
> HOWEVER the low voltage lamp stayed LIT at 1600RPM - does this mean I
> may have a bad crimp? Or do I just need to adjust it down on the LR3C?
>
> Cassius Smith
>
> -----------------
> "With the possible exception of the equator, everything begins
> somewhere."
> C. S. Lewis
>
> > -------- Original Message --------
> > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: NEARLY ready for first flight
> > From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
> > Date: Tue, February 19, 2008 11:00 pm
> > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> >
> >
> >
> > At 07:16 PM 2/19/2008 -0700, you wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >Hello all,
> > >I'm new to the Matronics list. My son is building an RV7-A, and we used
> > >the Aero Electric Connection figure Z-11 with very few modifications
> > >(added an SPST switch in front of the Alt. Hold; that was about all). We
> > >are using the B&C LR-3 alternator controller, and we used an LED in the
> > >panel for the low voltage indicator.
> > >
> > >My son cranked the engine the first time and just let it idle a couple
> > >of minutes. Voltage was indicated on the Dynon EMS-10 as 12.1V, which
> > >I'm told is low. We asked around and were told by a couple of folks that
> > >12.1V is normal for idle speeds; it will pick up at higher RPM runups.
> > >The low volt indicator was flashing the whole time.
> > >
> > >Today, we're about ready for first flight. My son did a 1600 RPM runup
> > >to check mags, oil pressure, stuff like that. HOWEVER the low voltage
> > >light never stopped blinking. He didn't notice the exact voltage
> > >reading. When he turned on all the lights, the current draw went into
> > >the red.
> > >
> > >Here's my question - how do I start trying to debug this problem? Do I
> > >suspect the alternator, the LR-3, or what? It was about 30 degrees at
> > >the hangar when he shut the engine down, so I haven't had the chance to
> > >check the wiring connectivity yet, and I know that's the first step.
> > >
> > >The EMS is connected to the main power bus, so it's not behind the
> > >bridge diode that protects the E-bus.
> > >
> > >Any suggestions?
> > >
> > >Cassius Smith
> >
> > There's a troubleshooting procedure for the LR-3 published
> > at:
> >
> > http://bandc.biz/Downloads.html
> >
> > Pick the one appropriate to the model you have.
> >
> > There's a general troubleshooting guide for
> > externally regulated alternators in Appendix
> > Z to the AeroElectric Connection which you
> > can download at:
> >
> > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev11/AppZ_R11M.pdf
> >
> > See Note 8 on Page Z-7.
> >
> > Let us know what you find.
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> > ----------------------------------------)
> > ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> > ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> > ( appearance of being right . . . )
> > ( )
> > ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> > ----------------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
Message 6
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Sam,
Yes that=92sthe mod I was talking about. Let me know what GRT says.
Mike
mlas@cox.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam
Marlow
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 9:09 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: EIS resistor
It's puzzling, because it worked fine for 6 months, then the mag died.
When I reinstalled the repaired mag, the tach started wondering, mostly
at higher RPMs.
It's the 27k resistor, supplied by Grand Rapids. I sent a Demo log to
G/R this morning, hope to here something soon.
I did the mod on the circuit board, before first flight, if that's the
one your referring to.
Mike wrote:
Sam,
What is the problem you are having with your EIS 6000? If it is with
the RPM indication, are you driving the RPM from the P-lead? If so what
resistor value are you currently using? If you are using a resistor in
the range required and it is not working you should call Grand Rapids.
There is a mod that is required on some 6000=92s which calls for the
removal of a resister internally. It is a simple process and they can
walk you through it or you could send it back assuming this is the
issue.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: HYPERLINK
"mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com"owner-aeroelectric-
list-server@matronics.com [HYPERLINK
"mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com"mailto:owner-aeroel
ectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2008 11:58 AM
"mailto:aeroelectric-list@matronics.com"aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: EIS resistor
I'm having trouble with my EIS 6000. Thinking about changing the 27k
resistor, but I can't find one. My question is, can I put a 22k and a
5.5k in series instead?
Thanks,
Sam Marlow
- The AeroElectric-List Email Forum -
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tion
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atronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
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ntribution
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Noisy Turn Coordinator |
I recently did some taxi testing of my RV8 and discovered I have a problem with
a noisy turn coordinator causing my radio to be amost useless. I also have a
flying RV8A which had the same problem, but was cured by fabricating and installing
Bob's noise choke (Radio Shack 270-030).
Unfortunately, this Radio Shack part along with the two alternative ones listed
by Bob are no available from the Shack. Does anyone have an idea where I can
get a noise filter similar to the ones formerly carried by RS?
Thanks......
Walt Shipley
Message 8
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| Subject: | Garmin396/SL40 interface |
I have been considering wiring my Garmin 396 GPS to the SL40 COM for
frequency loading into the COM and wondering if it is worthwhile doing.
I do not understand what action loads the com list for an airport from
the GPS to the Com. Have study both the GPS and SL40 manuals but my old
brain isn't getting it. When the Com tab is selected on the airport page
in the GPS, does that automatically send the list to the COM?
What am I missing?
Dale Ensing
Message 9
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| Subject: | Nanchang CJ6 Overvoltage Protector |
Bob:
Looking for the overvoltage protector designed for the CJ. How do I get one?
Craig
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165319#165319
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: NEARLY ready for first flight |
Cassius,
I used an LED also and it is always lit. It flashes for low volt. Bob
published, somewhere on his website, a diagram for adding a couple of
resistors to make it not glow all the time, but I have not got around to
doing the fix. I guess I just got used to thinking of it as a low volt
sensor armed light.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
Cassius Smith wrote:
>
> OK - here's what we did...
> I looked carefully at the installation and troubleshooting guides which
> were pointed out to me (THANKS) and I realized that we may not have been
> connecting the ALT Field. AEC Z-11 plan for BAT/ALT MASTER switch is a
> B&C 2-10 switch with two distinct positions - 1/2 way up is battery on,
> full up is battery and alt field on. When I looked through the inst and
> t/shooting guides, they mention making sure you have voltage on pin 6
> within 0.5V of the bus voltage. When I looked at the diagram (see
> attached) I realized that the pilot may not have been throwing the
> switch all the way up after engine start.
>
> We gave this a try and presto - 14.1-14.2V. Low Voltage stopped
> flashing.
>
> HOWEVER the low voltage lamp stayed LIT at 1600RPM - does this mean I
> may have a bad crimp? Or do I just need to adjust it down on the LR3C?
>
> Cassius Smith
>
> -----------------
> "With the possible exception of the equator, everything begins
> somewhere."
> C. S. Lewis
>
>
>> -------- Original Message --------
>> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: NEARLY ready for first flight
>> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>> Date: Tue, February 19, 2008 11:00 pm
>> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>>
>>
>>
>> At 07:16 PM 2/19/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Hello all,
>>> I'm new to the Matronics list. My son is building an RV7-A, and we used
>>> the Aero Electric Connection figure Z-11 with very few modifications
>>> (added an SPST switch in front of the Alt. Hold; that was about all). We
>>> are using the B&C LR-3 alternator controller, and we used an LED in the
>>> panel for the low voltage indicator.
>>>
>>> My son cranked the engine the first time and just let it idle a couple
>>> of minutes. Voltage was indicated on the Dynon EMS-10 as 12.1V, which
>>> I'm told is low. We asked around and were told by a couple of folks that
>>> 12.1V is normal for idle speeds; it will pick up at higher RPM runups.
>>> The low volt indicator was flashing the whole time.
>>>
>>> Today, we're about ready for first flight. My son did a 1600 RPM runup
>>> to check mags, oil pressure, stuff like that. HOWEVER the low voltage
>>> light never stopped blinking. He didn't notice the exact voltage
>>> reading. When he turned on all the lights, the current draw went into
>>> the red.
>>>
>>> Here's my question - how do I start trying to debug this problem? Do I
>>> suspect the alternator, the LR-3, or what? It was about 30 degrees at
>>> the hangar when he shut the engine down, so I haven't had the chance to
>>> check the wiring connectivity yet, and I know that's the first step.
>>>
>>> The EMS is connected to the main power bus, so it's not behind the
>>> bridge diode that protects the E-bus.
>>>
>>> Any suggestions?
>>>
>>> Cassius Smith
>>>
>> There's a troubleshooting procedure for the LR-3 published
>> at:
>>
>> http://bandc.biz/Downloads.html
>>
>> Pick the one appropriate to the model you have.
>>
>> There's a general troubleshooting guide for
>> externally regulated alternators in Appendix
>> Z to the AeroElectric Connection which you
>> can download at:
>>
>> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev11/AppZ_R11M.pdf
>>
>> See Note 8 on Page Z-7.
>>
>> Let us know what you find.
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>> ----------------------------------------)
>> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
>> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
>> ( appearance of being right . . . )
>> ( )
>> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
>> ----------------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
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