Today's Message Index:
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1. 06:52 AM - 220 VOLT COMPRESSOR (James H Nelson)
2. 07:37 AM - Re: 220 VOLT COMPRESSOR ()
3. 03:22 PM - Re: Garmin396/SL40 interface (Jim McBurney)
4. 03:42 PM - Batteries in Series (Paul Millner [OAK])
5. 04:22 PM - Re: Garmin396/SL40 interface (Allan Aaron)
6. 04:24 PM - Re: Low voltage indicator for LR3 (Jeff Page)
7. 09:55 PM - Re: Re: Low voltage indicator for LR3 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | 220 VOLT COMPRESSOR |
John,
Your are paying for power. 1 kw is still 1 kw whether you do it
with lower voltage and higher current or higher voltage and lower
current. It all comes out the same. The real advantage with the 220v
system is you can use smaller wire in setting up the system. The losses
in the system are smaller with the higher voltage. Not enough to matter
in this case. I run my compressor off my dryer circuit which is a 30a
circuit. Since I went with gas for drying, that circuit was available
with just a plug and a bit of wire to a manual disconnect at the
compressor.. (you need that).
Jim
off to the painter
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: 220 VOLT COMPRESSOR |
John:
You did the right thing but.... not to save money.
Unless you are running a factory with hundreds of
AC motors money saving on the electrical bill is
not the issue.
Some synchronous AC motors have a leading power
factor (look it up) and thus exploit how the utility
companies charge you. However a compressor
duty is pretty small and again we are talking about
once relatively small compressor.
Get a 220 Compressor, not to save electricity but to
have more power to make more air. The 220 volt motor
is more efficient for the job and you may save some
electricity, if comparing HP to HP, but the issue is
getting enough HP with 110 volts to drive a compressor
that is large enough to make enough volume of air fast
enough for the application. Air tools and Pro painting is
very air intensive applications. The surge current to start
a large compressor is huge and you need a 220 v motor
to get a bigger compressor going at all. If all you do is
fill some tires or beach balls, than 110 v is OK.
The small effort to wire in a 220 plug is small.
HOWEVER BE Careful, electricity can kill you. If in
doubt get a Pro and spend the money, or get help.
Yes house current is 220 Volt AC, 60 Hrz, with two hots
and one neutral.
-Any / either hot to neutral is 110 Volt.
-Hot to Hot is 220 volts.
-If you do any wiring than TURN off all electricity and BE
-very very careful.
-The ground is ground for 110 or 220 volt.
Just be careful. If anyone is going to rivet a RV together
or paint anything, get 220 V. Get a REAL compressor
not a Sears 110 v oil less toy compressor.
If you want to learn about AC motors single phase or
multi phase check the Google.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_motor
There is a thing called the "power factor" and it is how
the utility company chargers you. AC electrical power
engineering has terms like "real pwr", "apparent pwr"
and "reactive power". Google this for an explanation.
Again one little compressor for a hobby? No big deal.
George
PS if you do the wiring write me I can help you.
>From: "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
>Subject: 220 VOLT COMPRESSOR
Bob,
I had a 120 volt air compressor and change to a 220
volt model thinking I would save some on my
electrical bill.I was under the impression that the
amp's being drawn would be cut in half when
going to 220V.
A friend says the 220 v motor will still draw the
same amps. That each leg of the 220 v will draw
half the amp's but the combined draw is still
the full draw of the 110 v.
I told him that hat is correct but that one leg of the
220 v line will be out of phase with the other, so
only half the amps are being required. Is this
correct?
Thanks John L. Danielson
---------------------------------
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin396/SL40 interface |
Dale,
the output you're loking for isn't a VHF signal. The GPS is sending a data
signal to the receiver to tell it what freq. to tune. Probably a serial
data port.
Blue skies and tailwinds
Jim
CH-801
DeltaHawk diesel
Augusta GA
90% done, 90% left
Message 4
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| Subject: | Batteries in Series |
Hi Bob,
I enjoyed reading your recent discussion of paralleling batteries.
Instead, I'm wondering about converting one of my two alternators to 24
volt (28 volt, whatever nominal voltage you prefer!) to charge two 12
volt batteries in series. That will allow me to install the air
conditioner (!) I want, which only comes in a 24 volt version. I'd
leave the ship at 12 volts, and power those loads from the inter-battery
connection.
I'd connect the remaining 12 volt alternator to that "lower" battery as
well.
Let's say the 12 volt battery is offline and the 28 volt alternator is
cranking away... the "upper" battery will eventually get fully
charged... the upper batter will then just be a wet piece of wire (kind
of) to the 12 volt load? Or would there be a problem with the lower
battery not getting charged enough, or the upper batter overcharged?
Paul, making my head hurt mode
Message 5
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| Subject: | Garmin396/SL40 interface |
That correct.I tink you set it as garmin protocol but I'm not certain.
allan
-----Original Message-----
From: "Jim McBurney" <jmcburney@pobox.com>
Sent: 24/02/08 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Garmin396/SL40 interface
Dale,
the output you're loking for isn't a VHF signal. The GPS is sending a data
signal to the receiver to tell it what freq. to tune. Probably a serial
data port.
Blue skies and tailwinds
Jim
CH-801
DeltaHawk diesel
Augusta GA
90% done, 90% left
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Low voltage indicator for LR3 |
My notes from talking with someone at B&C is that pin 5 is a FET
output protected by a 1N4752 zener (which is 33V). Where does the
leakage come from ?
Jeff Page
Dream Aircraft Tundra #10
> Time: 03:44:39 PM PST US
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: NEARLY ready for first flight
> At 10:22 PM 2/20/2008 -0800, you wrote:
> LEDs and incandescent lamps are not directly interchangeable
> in this application. You need to add a resistor to the LR-3
> terminals to get the LED to masquerade as an incandescent
> device. I think 470 ohm, 1/2 watt between terminals 3 and
> 5 of the LR3. This applies to LEDs with built in resistors
> that turn them into 12v devices.
>
> If you're assembling your own LED indicator from scratch
> then you need both a series AND a parallel resistor. Here's
> one of several approaches that would work:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/LV_Led.jpg
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Low voltage indicator for LR3 |
At 07:20 PM 2/23/2008 -0500, you wrote:
>
>My notes from talking with someone at B&C is that pin 5 is a FET
>output protected by a 1N4752 zener (which is 33V). Where does the
>leakage come from ?
>Jeff Page
>Dream Aircraft Tundra #10
If you study the schematic cited below, you'll see a resistor
connected from collector to base (or drain to gate if fet)
that generates an artificial leakage.
This leakage is overcome by the hard pull-down on the
LV warn comparator but insufficient to illuminate an
incandescent lamp. The purpose of that leakage is to
cause a steady illumination of the LV warn lamp should
power to the LV warn circuitry within the LR-3 be lost.
The leakage will partially bias the lamp drive and cause
the lamp to glow steady.
This design goal gets in the way of allowing an LED
to go completely dark. The tiny leakage current that
produced no light on an incandescent lamp produces
significant light in the LED. Hence, the load resistor
to make an LED look like an incandescent.
Bob . . .
>>Time: 03:44:39 PM PST US
>>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: NEARLY ready for first flight
>>At 10:22 PM 2/20/2008 -0800, you wrote:
>> LEDs and incandescent lamps are not directly interchangeable
>> in this application. You need to add a resistor to the LR-3
>> terminals to get the LED to masquerade as an incandescent
>> device. I think 470 ohm, 1/2 watt between terminals 3 and
>> 5 of the LR3. This applies to LEDs with built in resistors
>> that turn them into 12v devices.
>>
>> If you're assembling your own LED indicator from scratch
>> then you need both a series AND a parallel resistor. Here's
>> one of several approaches that would work:
>>
>> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/LV_Led.jpg
>
>
>--
>269.20.9/1294 - Release Date: 2/22/2008 6:39 PM
>
>
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Bob . . .
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( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
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