Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:35 AM - Re: DME/Transponder Suppression (BobsV35B@aol.com)
2. 04:16 AM - Re: KX-155 Audio Out (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 04:33 AM - Re: B&C SD-20 and magnetic interference (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 04:52 AM - Re: B&C SD-20 and magnetic interference (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 04:52 AM - Re: S700-2-1 wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 05:36 AM - Re: Whisky compass(was B&C SD-20 and magnetic interference) (Carlos Trigo)
7. 06:04 AM - Re: Re: Whisky compass(was B&C SD-20 and magnetic interference) (Robert Borger)
8. 07:36 AM - Am I correct....... (Fergus Kyle)
9. 09:33 AM - Re: Question about Resistors (Scott R. Shook)
10. 09:41 AM - Aux power and the battery (Andrew Butler)
11. 10:16 AM - Re: Re: Whisky compass(was B&C SD-20 and magnetic interference) (The Kuffels)
12. 12:47 PM - Re: Re: Whisky compass(was B&C SD-20 and magnetic interference) (Mike Kimball)
13. 03:30 PM - Re: Splicing was (oddball 0.25" fast-on terminal source?) (RALPH HOOVER)
14. 05:23 PM - METCAL tip cartridges (Tom Barter)
15. 05:35 PM - Re: Aux power and the battery (Richard T. Schaefer)
16. 05:39 PM - Re: Question about Resistors (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
17. 06:23 PM - Re: Aux power and the battery (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 06:24 PM - Re: Aux power and the battery (Ken)
19. 06:33 PM - Re: Aux power and the battery (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 06:54 PM - Re: METCAL tip cartridges (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 06:54 PM - Re: METCAL tip cartridges (Charlie England)
22. 07:47 PM - Re: Question about Resistors (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
23. 08:47 PM - Re: Question about Resistors (Vernon Little)
24. 09:52 PM - Re: S700-2-1 wiring (mike humphrey)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: DME/Transponder Suppression |
Good Morning Don and 'Lectric Bob,
I imagine you are both aware of this, but just in case some others may not
be, the GPS is a legal substitute for any published IFR DME function. The GPS
must be in an IFR approved installation configuration, but it does not have
to be approach approved, just enroute and terminal approved.
The substitution is approved in the entire US National Airspace system and
in many other countries as well.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
N3977A
Downers Grove, IL
In a message dated 3/25/2008 6:25:57 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
nuckolls.bob@cox.net writes:
Have you considered a GPS receiver in lieu of DME? DME works
with a hand full of ground stations while GPS will give you
distance to any point on the surface of the earth. DME
is one of those electronic buggy whips that needs to be
moved to the museum.
Bob . . .
**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL
Home.
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: KX-155 Audio Out |
At 11:49 PM 3/25/2008 +0000, you wrote:
>I got tripped up on that term when I was wiring my experimental too. I
>have wired alot of car radios and other stuff growing up so the Hi/ Lo
>thing seemed strange. Someone on this list straightened me out. The HI is
>really the hot wire or feed, the Low is just the ground. Why they don't
>call it that is beyond me..
>
>do not archive
>
>
>Ben Haas
>N801BH
>www.haaspowerair.com
>
>-- "txpilot" <djg7@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>I have a KX-155 and a Sigtronics Sport 200 intercom. I'm trying to figure
>out the proper wiring between units. The KX-155 has an 'audio hi' and
>'audio lo' for both the comm and nav. I'm confused what is meant with the
>'hi' and 'lo'.
>
>Are the 'audio hi' connections supposed to go to the common blue intercom
>wire, common with the headset jacks, while the 'audio lo' connections go
>to ground? If that's the case, why must the 'audio lo' connections be
>shielded if it's going to ground anyway?
>
>Thanks for your help!
>
>Dan Ginty
Not all "LO" sides of signals paths are necessarily grounded.
I wasn't 'in the business' when the vernacular was adopted
and in any case, whoever conceived it probably used a reasonable
thought process. When one needs to identify power or signal
pathways and their functionality, a common vernacular is
seldom shared between disciplines. The electricians who wired
your house called them "line", "neutral" and "ground". In the
DC power world they might favor (+) and (-). In the AC signal
world the plus minus thing doesn't fit but there's still a need
to differentiate between the two wires for the purposes of
phasing. Hence the HI and LO thing. It's quite common for
the LO side of a path to get to ground somewhere in the system
but be totally floating in the far reaches of the wiring to
various components . . . it's that control-your-ground-loops
thing.
It can be frustrating but those are the cards that are
dealt to us. Without seeing the internal schematic for the
black boxes your trying to tie together, one cannot deduce
the rationale for shielding a LO side wire. I would guess
that it's because its simply the ac equivalent of a minus-side
in a DC circuit; intended to denote phasing and not
necessarily "ground".
I've had a few notes from readers over the years chiding
me for my "follow the instructions" recommendations for
answering questions on shield grounds. "Surely", they say,
"there must be some common rules of physics that can/should
guide us in all cases." The vernacular adopted by the
manufacturer's installation data and the designer's goals
for architecture are not necessarily common so the ultimate
map to Nirvana is the schematic. If a wire or shield is
shown to be connected in a particular manner, then it
matters not what it's called or how the shield or wire is
used. Schematics are the universal language in electronics
even if the symbols are sometimes a bit funny looking.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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Subject: | B&C SD-20 and magnetic interference |
At 12:51 PM 3/26/2008 +1300, you wrote:
><zk-vii@rvproject.gen.nz>
>
>Hi Matt,
>
>Thanks for the ideas, I'm really not that concerned about the whiskey
>compass functionality - if I've lost all my other mag direction indicators -
>the engine has stopped, so I don't really care about direction ;-) However
>the CAA so far is and the calibration card per regs has to be within 10
>degrees :-(.
>
>SD-20 off / disconnected - yes I think the compass reads right - but we are
>dual bus (two independent active buses), not endurance / essential bus - so
>both alts need to be running / working.
If you have a cross-feed, then just about every individual who knows-
more-about-airplanes-than-we-do will accept a fall back position for
dealing with failures that might present other limits as well.
Assuming that all other "normal" methods for pointing the nose in
the right direction are no longer available, then shutting the SD-20
OFF, closing the cross-feed contactor, reducing total loads to that
of the main alternator and flying with a now acceptable performance
from the antiquated pointing device is a perfectly valid 'plan-B'.
>Wire routing - the B lead and field goes aft from the SD-20 to the firewall,
>left across the top of the firewall, aft again through the firewall and back
>to a mid location for the regulator which is on a tray between the forward
>panel ribs (RV 7A Tipup).
The B-lead comes into the cockpit? Where are your batteries? The
B-lead can and should be well away from the instrument panel and
tie to fat-wires through a small ANL or MAXI fuse. I presume that
you're seeing maximum effect with the engine at idle while doing
the Mexican hat-dance at the compass rose. These are the conditions
where current in the b-lead is least . . . perhaps even zero while
current through the field is maxed out. The regulator is hollering
down to the engine room for "more power Mr. Scott . . . I need
MORE power". Of course, at low engine RPM, the regulator isn't
going to get what it wants to see and field current and associated
external effects are at their maximums.
>Remote compass - it could yet be the option - but I don't like to even think
>about the routing of the cables through the tunnel / spar / wing.....
Then consider the special ops protocols for getting the whisky
compass to live in the real world of a highly capable, failure
tolerant electrical system. Perhaps some day, those-who-know-
more-about-airplanes-than-we-do will allow us to relegate the
once venerable magnetic direction indicator to the function of
hood ornaments.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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Subject: | RE: B&C SD-20 and magnetic interference |
. . . a luck of the draw with the SD-20 - ie. they all vary abit? We
are only taking 3-4 amps under normal operations. I understand some
interference coming out, but what is 'too much'?
WRT:
"This is NOT a downside checkmark on the blackboard
for the B&C SD-20. ALL alternators have a steel
shaft that runs through the device parallel
to the magnetic lines of force generated in
the field windings."
My biggest complaint is there is NO indication or warnings about
this anywhere in the instruction / website information - I would have
reconsidered the panel layout with this information, as it is I'm
fixed without major rework and it is affecting my Autopilot backup and
one of the few instruments the regulator is specifically interested in....
How can I reduce this interference at the source - hopefully a small
reduction will be enough to get calibration within spec.
It wouldn't hurt to drop B&C a note suggesting that their
install literature be appropriately enhanced. But in their
defense, this is not a common occurrence . . . you COULD
be having a similar problem by routing some fat wire too
close to the compass . . . or some other system integration
problem like installing one of the older DC motor driven
turn indicators too close and having interference from
its internal magnets.
It's unfortunate that after all the work you've put
into the airplane (and being so VERY close to finished)
that this problem should become the longest pole in your
tent. Welcome to the real world of aviation products design
and qualification! 95% of my services to clients on the
TC side of the house right now involve chasing $100
rats from multi-million dollar airplanes . . . with
those-who-know-more-about-airplanes-than-we-do holding
the type certification hostage until the flight system
is pest-free.
A well considered and easily demonstrated low-risk
plan-B for making the compass readings fall within specs
is the no-hardware, no hammers-n-saws approach to
getting your machine blessed until it's legal to move
the "hood ornament" out onto the cowl.
Interestingly enough, I recall sometime in the past
seeing a compass installation that was on a bracket
just outside the windscreen. I think it was put there
to get outside the cage of a day-vfr, rag-n-tube
machine that was too badly magnetized to allow
calibration of the compass when installed in it's
normal position within the cockpit.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: S700-2-1 wiring |
At 01:51 AM 3/25/2008 -0400, you wrote:
>Bob or any other electrical wizard...
>
>Used a S700-2-1 DPDT on-off-on switch to wire my avionics master switch to
>include panel lights for 'main bus' and 'bat bus'.
>wired it like this:
> #3 bat bus & light post #4 light post
>
> #2 avionics bus #5 grnd
>
> #1 main bus & light post #6 light post
>
>When I toggle 'bat bus' instruments come on - no light
>When I toggle 'off' - everything off
>When I toggle 'main bus' - everything off
>
>When I turn master switch on(battery Cessna Split Switch)
> 'bat bus' instruments come on - no light
> 'off' -
> everything off
> 'main bus' instruments on - no light
>What am I doing wrong to get no lights? New switch from B&C. Lights from
>B&C 12V - Lights work-checked separately direct to battery.
>Thanks in advance.
>Mike H 9A/8A
Mike, can you do a schematic of how your system is wired
and post a scan to the List? I'm not sure my mental image
based on your words is an accurate depiction of the electron
map.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 6
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Subject: | RE: Whisky compass(was B&C SD-20 and magnetic interference) |
>
> Then consider the special ops protocols for getting the whisky
> compass to live in the real world of a highly capable, failure
> tolerant electrical system. Perhaps some day, those-who-know-
> more-about-airplanes-than-we-do will allow us to relegate the
> once venerable magnetic direction indicator to the function of
> hood ornaments.
>
> Bob . . .
Just for fun, will somebody please explain why do you Americans call
"Whisky" to the magnetic compass?
Is it because you only follow that needle when you had too much scotch
before flying
:-)
Carlos
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: RE: Whisky compass(was B&C SD-20 and magnetic |
interference)
Carlos,
Many many moons ago the damping fluid for the magnetic compass was alcohol as it
was cheep, readily available and would not freeze.
Good building and great flying,
Bob B
On Wednesday, March 26, 2008, at 07:52AM, "Carlos Trigo" <trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
wrote:
>
>
>>
>> Then consider the special ops protocols for getting the whisky
>> compass to live in the real world of a highly capable, failure
>> tolerant electrical system. Perhaps some day, those-who-know-
>> more-about-airplanes-than-we-do will allow us to relegate the
>> once venerable magnetic direction indicator to the function of
>> hood ornaments.
>>
>> Bob . . .
>
>
>Just for fun, will somebody please explain why do you Americans call
>"Whisky" to the magnetic compass?
>
>Is it because you only follow that needle when you had too much scotch
>before flying
>:-)
>
>Carlos
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Am I correct....... |
..........That message number 19 for Wed, 26Mar08 is over 330 lines long?
Why?
Ferg
Message 9
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Subject: | Question about Resistors |
I have lights!
The resistors worked great and my mock up works great. The pins on the
Stanley LED's are standard to a project board so mounting them will be
easier than I first thought. I am going to do a burn-in and temperature
test this weekend to make sure I am not generating heat.
For a low voltage, non-critical application like this, would it be
acceptable to use a solder bridge for the pins I need to bridge?
On the 5 LED bars, you have to bridge 2-3, 4.5, 6-7, 8-9.
Scott R. Shook
RV-7A (Building)
N696JS (Reserved)
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott R.
Shook
Sent: Tuesday, 25 March, 2008 17:01
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Question about Resistors
That is the formula I was looking for. Thank you.
The light bars themselves, have 5 LED's so those will go in a series. My
last trick will be mounting them and the wiring of said LED's. I am hoping
a blank project circuit board will do what I want. The trick with the
circuit board will be the spacing requirements (space between light bars).
Once that is figured, I can order the face (reverse engraved acrylic).
I am also working on a "push-to test" option.
As far as the intensity, since these will be behind a reverse engraved
acrylic (black behind clear) only the letters themselves will light up.
Once I get the mock up completed, the day/night intensity testing will be
performed.
Scott R. Shook
RV-7A (Building)
N696JS (Reserved)
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon
Little
Sent: Tuesday, 25 March, 2008 15:46
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Question about Resistors
Hi Scott:
Here's the formula: R = (Vbatt-Vf)/If ohms, where Vf is 1.7 V and If is 20
ma (from datasheet)
For the part you chose, R = (14.2-1.7)/0.020 = 625 ohms (use 680 ohm
standard value) -- if you power each segment seperately.
If you connect all 5 of the LEDs in series, then R = (14.2 - 5*1.7)/0.020
285 ohms (use 330 ohm standard value).
Now, here's one issue to deal with: If you are dimming the LEDs, you may
want to power each segment separately so that they dim the same as other
displays in the cockpit. Only experimentation will give you the answer for
this.
Finally, you may want to try one light bar first before you commit to using
them in a panel. They may have a tendency to wash out in bright sunlight.
I used to sell a product line that used similar light bars, and this was an
issue unless you carefully shield the display from ambient light (such as
locating right underneath the glareshield). I found some 1/8" LEDs that
will dazzle your eyes, but they were very difficult to dim due to their
intensity. Of course, they were tiny and not easy to label!.
Good luck.
Vern Little.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott R.
Shook
Sent: March 25, 2008 12:59 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Question about Resistors
Bob et al,
I am putting together an annunciator panel using some Stanley LED Light Bars
PN# (404-1148-ND). And if I read correctly on the spec sheet from Digikey,
the voltage is 1.7v per LED.
This being the case, do you have a 'cheat sheet' showing what resistors I
would need to provide the appropriate voltage drop for our 14v OBAM
aircraft?
Scott R. Shook
RV-7A (Building)
N696JS (Reserved)
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matro
nics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 10
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Subject: | Aux power and the battery |
All, I have two general queries that I would like some help on.
1. I have purchased an AC to 12V 5A DC power supply. I would like to use
this as an ad-hoc power for install and testing of components through the
build. I was thinking of attaching a standard male cigaratte lighter plug
to the leads and then use a female recepticle to receive and power the
bus. What issues do I need to consider? What will happen if I do this
while the battery (an Odyssey PC680) is left attached to the system?
2. I have purchased a two stage charger. Is it kohser to charge the
battery through the same female cigaratte power port?
Thanks for your help.
Andrew Butler.
RV71700 - Finishing kit.
Galway, Ireland.
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: RE: Whisky compass(was B&C SD-20 and magnetic |
interference)
do not archive
<< Just for fun, will somebody please explain why do you
Americans call "Whisky" to the magnetic compass? >>
<< Many many moons ago the damping fluid for the magnetic compass
was alcohol as it was cheep, readily available and would not
freeze. >>
Although possible, this is not my understanding. Whisky is the
American/ICAO/NATO phonetic alphabet word for the letter "W".
The W refers to a "wet" compass as opposed to the dry type used
by hikers. Have never heard of them filled with anything but
glorified kerosene.
Tom Kuffel
Whitefish, MT
Building Original FireStar
Message 12
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Subject: | RE: Whisky compass(was B&C SD-20 and magnetic |
interference)
Along with following the needle after too much Scotch, sit back and watch
the fun when your over-prepared student finds a good spot to stick his
flashlight with the magnetic catch. (This really happened.)
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos
Trigo
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 4:31 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RE: Whisky compass(was B&C SD-20 and magnetic
interference)
<trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
>
> Then consider the special ops protocols for getting the whisky
> compass to live in the real world of a highly capable, failure
> tolerant electrical system. Perhaps some day, those-who-know-
> more-about-airplanes-than-we-do will allow us to relegate the
> once venerable magnetic direction indicator to the function of
> hood ornaments.
>
> Bob . . .
Just for fun, will somebody please explain why do you Americans call
"Whisky" to the magnetic compass?
Is it because you only follow that needle when you had too much scotch
before flying
:-)
Carlos
Message 13
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Subject: | Splicing was (oddball 0.25" fast-on terminal source?) |
Bob,
Although I have been splicing wire for 45 years I prefer #1 no
splices, #2 properly crimped gas tight connectors, or #3 strain relieved
connections soldered to a terminal #4 would be a mid span splice. In most
cases I will install a connector mid wire run if it may need to be broken
for service, or ease of assembly. That said the fewer connections the less
likelihood for failure. In the case of the alternator connector any splice
adds mass that is hanging a few inches from the connector that then must be
supported to prevent it moving in relation to the alternator and breaking
the wiring. Yes it's doable but in keeping with KISS I just used the proper
terminal as designed.
And yes I did splice a few wires mid span in my project, no I didn't
need to but I just got lazy and didn't want to pull a longer wire. They
will outlast both me and the plane. No worries, the electrons don't know the
difference. :)
Thanks for all you do, we have all learned a lot.
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 10:56 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: oddball 0.25" fast-on terminal source?
<nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
At 06:48 PM 3/25/2008 -0500, you wrote:
<hooverra@verizon.net>
>
>D,
> I had the same issue and bought a roll of AMP tin plated for 18-22
>AWG wire.
>DigiKey P/N A27933CT-ND
>AMP P/N 60295-2
>If these will help send me your address off list and I will mail you a few.
>I bought 100 and needed 3 :( I just couldn't think of butt splices on the
>Alternator wires.
Why butt splice? You can do a very compact, robust solder
splice. See:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Tech_Tips/Solder_Lap_Splicing/Solder_Lap_Sp
lices.html
Bob . . .
Message 14
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Subject: | METCAL tip cartridges |
I am looking for a recommendation of a couple of Metcal STTC tip cartridges
for the MX-RM3E wand. The power supply is a PS2E-01. For 63/37 solder, is
the 600 degree tip appropriate? For soldering fat wires, it seems that the
STTC-045 or -145 tip would be appropriate. Not sure about a tip for
smaller, general propose soldering. Any advice from well acquainted users
would be welcome.
Tom Barter
Kesley, IA
Avid Magnum
Message 15
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Subject: | Aux power and the battery |
Make sure you have the right polarity.
If the power supply does not handle short circuits (internal current limit
and shutdown) you might want to fuse it.
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Butler
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 11:39 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Aux power and the battery
All, I have two general queries that I would like some help on.
1. I have purchased an AC to 12V 5A DC power supply. I would like to use
this as an ad-hoc power for install and testing of components through the
build. I was thinking of attaching a standard male cigaratte lighter plug to
the leads and then use a female recepticle to receive and power the bus.
What issues do I need to consider? What will happen if I do this while the
battery (an Odyssey PC680) is left attached to the system?
2. I have purchased a two stage charger. Is it kohser to charge the battery
through the same female cigaratte power port?
Thanks for your help.
Andrew Butler.
RV71700 - Finishing kit.
Galway, Ireland.
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Question about Resistors |
In a message dated 03/25/2008 3:15:23 PM Central Daylight Time,
sshook@cox.net writes:
I am putting together an annunciator panel using some Stanley LED Light Bars
PN# (404-1148-ND). And if I read correctly on the spec sheet from Digikey,
the voltage is 1.7v per LED.
Hi Scott-
I used the same LEDs and they've worked quite nicely for 4 years/almost 500
hours. Here's the arrangement I cobbled together:
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=7604_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=7604)
click on foto for larger view. Drawing available in AutoCAD if you'd like a
copy...
>From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips, RV-6A "Mojo"
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/)
**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL
Home.
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Aux power and the battery |
At 04:38 PM 3/26/2008 +0000, you wrote:
>All, I have two general queries that I would like some help on.
>
>1. I have purchased an AC to 12V 5A DC power supply. I would like to use
>this as an ad-hoc power for install and testing of components through the
>build. I was thinking of attaching a standard male cigaratte lighter plug
>to the leads and then use a female recepticle to receive and power the
>bus. What issues do I need to consider? What will happen if I do this
>while the battery (an Odyssey PC680) is left attached to the system?
12 volts is a bit too low to be run in parallel with
a battery. Generally speaking, 12v power supplies are
crafted for energizing electronics. Since 12v batteries
in vehicles need 13.8 minimum (14.2 better) to co-exist
with a power source, the supply you have could be used for
limited testing as a stand-alone source of power.
>2. I have purchased a two stage charger. Is it kohser to charge the
>battery through the same female cigaratte power port?
If it's an automotive "smart charger", what is it's
rated capacity for charging? The BEST way to power your
airplane from the AC mains is to acquire some form of
smart charger. Exemplar devices can be viewed in this
.pdf catalog from Schumacher.
http://www.schumacherproducts.com/assets/pdf/sec_catalog.pdf
I have a couple of Schumacher products, one of which
is good for 25A in the recharge mode. I'll need to do
some tests with it but my thinking is that devices like
these could be permanently connected across your ship's
battery and plugged into the wall. Their microprocessor
smarts should react to keep the battery charged irrespective
of how much "stuff" you test.
This should work even large loads and relatively
small smart chargers. Of course the battery will have
to make up the difference between what say a 2A
charger will put out and a 10A test load. But as
soon as you shut things off, the battery charger
can be trusted to do its thing and bring the battery
back up to 100%.
If you'd like to have a power supply that emulates
"real" vehicular power, watch for 13.8 volt devices
sold to power mobile electronics in the house. I used
to sell the Samlex 1223 and a kit to make it emulate
an alternator. You could plug it into wall, hook it
to the alternator's b-lead and have it respond to
the cockpit alternator control switch. Sitting in
the left seat, everything on the panel worked as if
you had an engine running with a 23A alternator on
it. See:
http://tinyurl.com/2zdt3u
I've always recommended that builders not buy a new
battery until the airplane was ready to fly. During
construction phases, a lawn tractor battery and a
plug-in-the-wall power supply would let you get everything
running in the airplane without abusing a brand
new flight-battery. A smart charger connected
across the battery is a reasonable substitute for a
high-quality power supply.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Aux power and the battery |
Sure if it is on a battery bus. Maybe not a good idea if you have to
leave a battery contactor energised.
Ken
>
> 2. I have purchased a two stage charger. Is it kohser to charge the
> battery through the same female cigaratte power port?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Andrew Butler.
> RV71700 - Finishing kit.
> Galway, Ireland.
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Aux power and the battery |
At 07:30 PM 3/26/2008 -0500, you wrote:
>Make sure you have the right polarity.
>
>If the power supply does not handle short circuits (internal current limit
>and shutdown) you might want to fuse it.
Good points!
Bob . . .
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: METCAL tip cartridges |
At 07:19 PM 3/26/2008 -0500, you wrote:
>I am looking for a recommendation of a couple of Metcal STTC tip
>cartridges for the MX-RM3E wand. The power supply is a PS2E-01. For
>63/37 solder, is the 600 degree tip appropriate? For soldering fat wires,
>it seems that the STTC-045 or -145 tip would be appropriate. Not sure
>about a tip for smaller, general propose soldering. Any advice from well
>acquainted users would be welcome.
>
>
We've used only Metcal soldering irons in the shop now for
10 years. I have three in various locations in my facilities
and a couple more I loan out to folks who put stuff together for
me. To date, I've found no finer tool (that I can afford) for
the task.
The Metcal catalog for STTC series tips can be downloaded
at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Tools/Metcal/Metcal_Tips.pdf
The heaviest tip for fat-wire work is the #65. I've installed
terminals on 4AWG wire with this critter. It takes awhile but
it will do it. The commonly found tips in the wild are 000 hundred
(600F) or 100 series (700F). For 63/37 solder, it doesn't matter
much for most work. I'm interested in getting some really fine
500 series tips for working some really tiny stuff.
For general soldering tasks, a #25, 04 or 36 will serve you well.
I have a few tips like the #45 for soldering down those parts
surface mounted parts fitted with copper "cat-hair" for leads.
I presume you're watching the offerings on ebay. Most of
my tips came in assortments of used where some were pretty
rough but I got them cheap and enough good tips in the lot
to make it a good value. But there's some really reasonable
offerings for new, single tips.
Bob . . .
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: METCAL tip cartridges |
Tom Barter wrote:
>
> I am looking for a recommendation of a couple of Metcal STTC tip
> cartridges for the MX-RM3E wand. The power supply is a PS2E-01. For
> 63/37 solder, is the 600 degree tip appropriate? For soldering fat
> wires, it seems that the STTC-045 or -145 tip would be appropriate.
> Not sure about a tip for smaller, general propose soldering. Any
> advice from well acquainted users would be welcome.
>
>
>
> Tom Barter
>
> Kesley, IA
>
> Avid Magnum
>
>
>
I soldered more connections than I want to think about using old Weller
soldering stations in another life. I always opted for 700 degree tips.
My logic was that with half-way decent technique, the extra temp can
actually reduce the chance of damaging components. It drives the joint
temperature up quicker, giving less time for the heat to spread out into
critical areas you *don't* want heated up. It can also extend the
usefulness of an iron that's marginal for the mass of the joint you're
trying to solder. The extra temperature increases the effective thermal
'mass' available to heat a big joint.
It's a pretty safe bet that others will have different opinions.
Charlie
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Subject: | Re: Question about Resistors |
In a message dated 03/26/2008 11:37:31 AM Central Daylight Time,
sshook@cox.net writes:
For a low voltage, non-critical application like this, would it be acceptable
to use a solder bridge for the pins I need to bridge?
>>>
That's exactly what I did, on a standard project board like you mentioned-
bend the prongs over and nail 'em with a touch of solder. Only difference is I
used the 3-LED blocks instead of the 5...
see: _http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5135_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5135)
I'll also mention that I chose slightly smaller resistors than would normally
be called for to brighten them up a bit. Consider that these annunciators
are typically illuminated for relatively short periods of time and even if
overdriven, they will likely outlast your airplane. I tested this by intentionally
overdriving sample blocks well over their limit for about two weeks
continuous with no failures. I would also recommend buying several spares of each
specific block you use- they are really cheap, and you never know how long an
identical item will be available for replacement, if ever needed. Neat stuff...
Mark
**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL
Home.
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)
Message 23
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Subject: | Question about Resistors |
Scott: surf to aircraftextras.com here:
http://aircraftextras.com/VxAviation.htm
<http://www.vx-aviation.com/page_2.html#IL-4A,%20IL-12A_more>
The IL-4A controller can be used to drive lamps, and support various
polarities of input signals. It also allows you to connect to your
dimmer
and supports push-to-test.
Vern
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
R.
Shook
Sent: March 25, 2008 5:01 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Question about Resistors
That is the formula I was looking for. Thank you.
The light bars themselves, have 5 LED's so those will go in a series.
My
last trick will be mounting them and the wiring of said LED's. I am
hoping
a blank project circuit board will do what I want. The trick with the
circuit board will be the spacing requirements (space between light
bars).
Once that is figured, I can order the face (reverse engraved acrylic).
I am also working on a "push-to test" option.
As far as the intensity, since these will be behind a reverse engraved
acrylic (black behind clear) only the letters themselves will light up.
Once I get the mock up completed, the day/night intensity testing will
be
performed.
Scott R. Shook
RV-7A (Building)
N696JS (Reserved)
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Vernon
Little
Sent: Tuesday, 25 March, 2008 15:46
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Question about Resistors
Hi Scott:
Here's the formula: R = (Vbatt-Vf)/If ohms, where Vf is 1.7 V and If
is 20
ma (from datasheet)
For the part you chose, R = (14.2-1.7)/0.020 = 625 ohms (use 680 ohm
standard value) -- if you power each segment seperately.
If you connect all 5 of the LEDs in series, then R = (14.2 -
5*1.7)/0.020
285 ohms (use 330 ohm standard value).
Now, here's one issue to deal with: If you are dimming the LEDs, you
may
want to power each segment separately so that they dim the same as other
displays in the cockpit. Only experimentation will give you the answer
for
this.
Finally, you may want to try one light bar first before you commit to
using
them in a panel. They may have a tendency to wash out in bright
sunlight.
I used to sell a product line that used similar light bars, and this was
an
issue unless you carefully shield the display from ambient light (such
as
locating right underneath the glareshield). I found some 1/8" LEDs that
will dazzle your eyes, but they were very difficult to dim due to their
intensity. Of course, they were tiny and not easy to label!.
Good luck.
Vern Little.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
R.
Shook
Sent: March 25, 2008 12:59 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Question about Resistors
Bob et al,
I am putting together an annunciator panel using some Stanley LED Light
Bars
PN# (404-1148-ND). And if I read correctly on the spec sheet from
Digikey,
the voltage is 1.7v per LED.
This being the case, do you have a 'cheat sheet' showing what resistors
I
would need to provide the appropriate voltage drop for our 14v OBAM
aircraft?
Scott R. Shook
RV-7A (Building)
N696JS (Reserved)
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.
matro
nics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: S700-2-1 wiring |
Bob,
I figured out what was wrong. I didn't realize that the indicator lights
were LEDS and must be wired differently from bulbs. White dot on side of
light housing apparently meant 12v source. When I wired it that way(had it
reversed) the lights came on. HooRahh!.
Thanks for responding, wiring is completed-at last.
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 7:49 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: S700-2-1 wiring
> <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>
> At 01:51 AM 3/25/2008 -0400, you wrote:
>
>>Bob or any other electrical wizard...
>>
>>Used a S700-2-1 DPDT on-off-on switch to wire my avionics master switch to
>>include panel lights for 'main bus' and 'bat bus'.
>>wired it like this:
>> #3 bat bus & light post #4 light
>> post
>>
>> #2 avionics bus #5 grnd
>>
>> #1 main bus & light post #6 light
>> post
>>
>>When I toggle 'bat bus' instruments come on - no light
>>When I toggle 'off' - everything
>>off
>>When I toggle 'main bus' - everything off
>>
>>When I turn master switch on(battery Cessna Split Switch)
>> 'bat bus' instruments come on - no light
>> 'off' -
>> everything off
>> 'main bus' instruments on - no light
>>What am I doing wrong to get no lights? New switch from B&C. Lights from
>>B&C 12V - Lights work-checked separately direct to battery.
>>Thanks in advance.
>>Mike H 9A/8A
>
> Mike, can you do a schematic of how your system is wired
> and post a scan to the List? I'm not sure my mental image
> based on your words is an accurate depiction of the electron
> map.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------)
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
>
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