Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:02 AM - Coax Stripper Clearance (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 07:32 AM - Re: Just for grins (Ernest Christley)
3. 07:45 AM - Re: Any Ray Allen LED Dimming Circuit ideas? (Glaeser, Dennis A)
4. 09:37 AM - Re: Alternator Breaker Pop (user9253)
5. 10:54 AM - Re: Aux power and the battery (Jim Piavis)
6. 01:22 PM - Re: Re: Aux power and the battery (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 02:40 PM - Re: Just for grins (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 02:41 PM - Strippers are all spoken for. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 03:36 PM - Re: Strippers are all spoken for. (Kevin Horton)
10. 07:05 PM - AMR-350 pin-out (Michael Hinchcliff)
11. 07:47 PM - Re: Using NC SwitchesElectrical question (Robert Seccombe)
12. 08:57 PM - Re: AMR-350 pin-out (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 09:08 PM - Re: Strippers are all spoken for. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 09:15 PM - Re: Alternator Breaker Pop (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Coax Stripper Clearance |
I was looking through some boxes for parts on a client
project and ran across some 3-blade, coax wire strippers
left over from a time when we were merchandising tools
and materials.
This tool:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Wire_Strippers/3-Blade_Adjustable_1.jpg
produces this strip job:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Wire_Strippers/3-Blade_Adjustable_6.jpg
on RG-58/400/141 coax making it ready to install a connector:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Wire_Strippers/3-Blade_Adjustable_9.jpg
It's adjustable and comes with the right size Allen wrench
to set depths for other styles of coax.
I have about a dozen of these and will make them available
to folks for $10 each plus $1.30 postage for a total of $11.30
You can place an order on our secure order form at:
https://matronics.com/aeroelectric/Catalog/AECcatalog.html
Put a note in the comments box that you want a coax stripper.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Just for grins |
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> See:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/300_vs_50mA_discharge_of_AA_cell.jpg
>
>
> A reduction of load to 50 mA allowed me to get twice
> the stored energy from the cells chemistry.
When designing the battery configuration, I will get more than twice
the energy from the system if I wire the batteries in parallel? Could
you run a test with 150mA load? That would simulate dual batteries
loaded in parallel vs a single battery.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Any Ray Allen LED Dimming Circuit ideas? |
The LED units have a lead which dims them when connected to 12v. It's
an on-off type of thing as far as I know, no way to use a dimming
circuit. I'm using the Perihelion Dimmer which has a switched output as
well as a dimmed output. I connected the Trim indicators dimmer wire to
the switched side, so when I turn on my interior lights, the trim
indicators dim.
Dennis Glaeser
RV7A - first flight planned for tomorrow!
---------------------------------------------------
Hello,
Panel is all wired up, just some fine tuning. One item is that the Ray
Allen
LED trim indicators are too bright when switched to =BD brightness.
I have scanned the net for a way to convert them to a linear dimming
range
but have found nothing. I am at point of installing a switch to turn
them
off except when needed.
I am hoping someone has a more elegant (read cheap) solution. They=92re
already mounted in the panel so chucking them is not an option.
Thanks!
Vince H.
Idaho ' RV-8 VSB (Very Slow Built) Finish
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Breaker Pop |
A wire could be intermittently shorting to ground or there could be an over-voltage
condition. Shut off all expensive electronics, then try disconnecting the
wire at the master switch that goes to the over-voltage module and see if the
problem goes away. If it does, then there could be an over-voltage condition.
The battery should help prevent voltage spikes. Does the battery contactor
remain energized until the engine stops turning?
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173273#173273
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Aux power and the battery |
Along the lines of the current thread, what is the best way to connect the
power supply/ charger? Can a 20A charger be connected via the b-lead to sim
ulate alternator current to the system, or should the charger always be con
nected across the battery. Same for a dedicated power supply? I'm also loo
king for a good power supply while I work through the avionics configuratio
n and familiarization of the systems.
Jim
RV-7 Getting Close
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Aux power and the battery |
At 10:49 AM 3/28/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>Along the lines of the current thread, what is the best way to connect the
>power supply/ charger? Can a 20A charger be connected via the b-lead to
>simulate alternator current to the system, or should the charger always be
>connected across the battery. Same for a dedicated power supply? I m also
>looking for a good power supply while I work through the avionics
>configuration and familiarization of the systems.
A "power supply" is generally clean and stable enough
to be stand alone energy source for running things in
your airplane or on the bench.
A "battery charger" may not . . . and the best way to
use a charger is to connect it permanently across the
battery and then use the battery to run ship's systems.
Any of the power supply products rated for an output
voltage of "13.8" will be a stand-alone product designed
to run loads up to and including it's rated output
current. Do a Goggle search on
13.8 power supply
and you get a wad of hits. I'd recommend something
on the order of 20A or better capability like a Samlex
1223 . . . but there are many serviceable products.
See:
http://www.nextag.com/13.8vdc-power-supply/search-html
http://www.radiodan.com/misc/samlex1223.htm
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Just for grins |
At 10:27 AM 3/28/2008 -0400, you wrote:
><echristley@nc.rr.com>
>
>Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>>
>>See:
>>
>>http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/300_vs_50mA_discharge_of_AA_cell.jpg
>>
>>
>>A reduction of load to 50 mA allowed me to get twice
>>the stored energy from the cells chemistry.
>When designing the battery configuration, I will get more than twice the
>energy from the system if I wire the batteries in parallel? Could you run
>a test with 150mA load? That would simulate dual batteries loaded in
>parallel vs a single battery.
EXCELLENT question. Actually, doubling the batteries up in
parallel will get you MORE than twice the energy. The reasoning
here is that energy lost in the battery's internal resistance
is a Watt=I(squared)*R function.
Went to the bench an measured one of those same Maxell cells
open circuit at 1610 mV. I put a 25 ohm load across the cell
and it dropped to 1580 for a difference of 30 millivolts.
The load was 1580mV/25ohms = 63mA . Therefor the internal
resistance of this cell is 30mV/63mA or about 475 milliohms.
Okay, 475 milliohms loaded to 300 mA will drop 140 millivolts
and toss off .140v x .3A or 42 milliwats of heat. Now, let
us connect two cells in parallel. Each cell now sees 1/2
the total load or .15A x .475 ohms = 71 millivolts drop
and .071 x .15 = 10 milliwatts of heating. Considering
the two cells in parallel they now each toss off 10 milliwatts
for a TOTAL of 20 milliwatts . . . where the single cell
was tossing off twice that amount with the same load.
Paralleling cells has the effect of paralleling internal
resistance (making it go down) while doubling the chemical
mass (electrical capacity). Given that current in each
internal resistance falls by 1/2, the power dissipated in
each falls to 1/4th the original thus allowing both cells
to deliver more of their content while doubling their total
potential energy as a team. Lowering effective internal
resistance is always a good thing for return on investment
in electro-chemical energy.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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| Subject: | Strippers are all spoken for. |
Gee guys . . . I didn't expect such a quick response! Thanks.
I'll fill your requests in order received and let the late-comers
know that they were just too late. These strippers are readily
available for only slightly more than what I asked. In fact,
I think they're generally 9.95 in the wild . . . but they
hit you a bit harder for s/h.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Strippers are all spoken for. |
On 28 Mar 2008, at 17:38, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>
> Gee guys . . . I didn't expect such a quick response! Thanks.
> I'll fill your requests in order received and let the late-comers
> know that they were just too late. These strippers are readily
> available for only slightly more than what I asked. In fact,
> I think they're generally 9.95 in the wild . . . but they
> hit you a bit harder for s/h.
The problem is that while there may be some very acceptable strippers
available for $10, there is also a lot of junk for sale too. When
purchasing online, it is hard to tell the jems from the junk. We
trust your judgement, so if you tell us that a particular $10
stripper is a jem, people will buy it to avoid having to deal with junk.
--
Kevin Horton
RV-8 (FInal Assembly)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 10
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Hey guys, does anybody out there have an electronic copy of the Collins
Audio Panel (AMR-350) pin-out diagram? If so, can you share it with
me? Thanks!
Michael H.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Using NC SwitchesElectrical question |
Gentleman,
I have seen this before where someone finds it necessary to
be
able to activate the IDENT function of the transponder from the control
stick. I have to ask: How often does one have to IDENT in one flight,
what
is the chance of activating it accidentally, and just how far would you
really have to reach otherwise?
Robert Seccombe
35 years ATP
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: AMR-350 pin-out |
At 08:58 PM 3/28/2008 -0500, you wrote:
>Hey guys, does anybody out there have an electronic copy of the Collins
>Audio Panel (AMR-350) pin-out diagram? If so, can you share it
>with me? Thanks!
>
>Michael H.
>
See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Installation_Data/
Bob . . .
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Strippers are all spoken for. |
At 06:28 PM 3/28/2008 -0400, you wrote:
>
>On 28 Mar 2008, at 17:38, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>><nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>>
>>Gee guys . . . I didn't expect such a quick response! Thanks.
>>I'll fill your requests in order received and let the late-comers
>>know that they were just too late. These strippers are readily
>>available for only slightly more than what I asked. In fact,
>>I think they're generally 9.95 in the wild . . . but they
>>hit you a bit harder for s/h.
>
>The problem is that while there may be some very acceptable strippers
>available for $10, there is also a lot of junk for sale too. When
>purchasing online, it is hard to tell the jems from the junk. We
>trust your judgement, so if you tell us that a particular $10
>stripper is a jem, people will buy it to avoid having to deal with junk.
Understand. Those who missed out on the 'sale' are encouraged
to see:
http://www.gilchrist-electric.com/3-blade-coax-cable-strip.php
These are the folks I bought them from at 25 to 50 at a
whack when we were selling them.
Bob . . .
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Breaker Pop |
At 06:22 PM 3/27/2008 -0700, you wrote:
><david.m.gallagher@ge.com>
>
>I am performing my first engine runs with a Jabiru 3300 powered Zenith
>601XL. This is a PM alternator and my wiring is based on the Z16
>architecture using the S704-1 alternator control and crowbar OV
>protection. So far everything is working just fine with one
>exception. Of the 10 or so engine starts I have made, twice I found the
>5A alternator breaker popped. This is the breaker between the main bus
>and the master switch. On both occasions, the engine was at idle and I
>shut it down then re-started it after a few moments. It was after the
>start that I noticed the popped breaker.
>
>I don't know if the breaker popped on shutdown or during the re-start. In
>either case I was able to reset the breaker and all appeared to be OK.
>
>Anybody have any ideas on what is going on here? All the volt and amp
>numbers I have seen are "in the green." Do shutdown or start-ups cause
>nuisance pops?
The crowbar ov protection module has been known to
trip on system noises. I've helped a number of builders
track down a noise source that was irritating the
OVM-14. How long have you had your OV module? There
were some changes about 4-5 years ago that made them
more resistant to all but the worst noises.
This is a pretty rare condition. It could also
be that your particular OVM has a problem. You
can send it to me for a checkout and update too
if you've had it a very long time.
I've not built and sold these for about 6 years
but I can help you tame the little beast.
Bob . . .
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