Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:45 AM - Questions on avionics ()
2. 06:21 AM - Broken reception on my COMM (Ron Patterson)
3. 06:37 AM - Re: Shunts (Nerds!) ()
4. 06:43 AM - Re: 2 electrical questions - diode and intermittent failure (F1 Rocket)
5. 06:50 AM - Re: Broken reception on my COMM (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 07:05 AM - Re: Broken reception on my COMM (MartinErni@aol.com)
7. 08:01 AM - Tail Nav Light Ground (Jim Piavis)
8. 08:48 AM - Bits of aviation history . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 08:57 AM - Re: Tail Nav Light Ground (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 09:35 AM - Re: Questions on avionics (BobsV35B@aol.com)
11. 09:35 AM - Re: Tail Nav Light Ground (MauleDriver)
12. 10:20 AM - Re: Questions on avionics (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
13. 10:25 AM - Re: 2 electrical questions - diode and intermittent failure (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
14. 10:45 AM - Re: 2 electrical questions - diode and intermittent failure (MartinErni@aol.com)
15. 10:58 AM - Re: Questions on avionics (BobsV35B@aol.com)
16. 11:26 AM - Re: 2 electrical questions - diode and intermittent failure (Ernest Christley)
17. 11:26 AM - Re: Questions on avionics (Bill Denton)
18. 11:43 AM - Re: Questions on avionics (BobsV35B@aol.com)
19. 12:01 PM - Re: Questions on avionics (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
20. 03:59 PM - Re: Music Inputs (Dustin Paulson)
21. 07:11 PM - Ray Allen Trim servos (Jeffrey W. Skiba)
22. 07:38 PM - Re: Ray Allen Trim servos (Sheldon Olesen)
23. 11:06 PM - Re: Ray Allen Trim servos (mike humphrey)
Message 1
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Subject: | Questions on avionics |
4/15/2008
Hello Bruce, You wrote:
"1. What does it mean to "cage" an attitude indicator?"
Some attitude indicators have a mechanical means to lock the gyro gimbals so
that the gyro gimbals are held rigidly to the instrument case. This can
serve two functions:
A) It can save wear and tear on the gyro if you are going to do some
aerobatic manuevering and don't want the gyro to be moving around
extensively as it tries to always show the proper aircraft attitude.
B) If the gyro has tumbled and one wants to erect it again to a proper
attitude one can put the airplane in a level attitude, cage and then uncage
the gyro, and it will then start indicating properly a level attitude from
that new starting point.
"3. Is purchasing a separate encoder necessary?.....I see some avionics
vendors packaging
in a separate encoder but don't really understand why."
They are doing this because the altitude encoder in almost all of the EFIS
being sold to the amateur built community are not TSO'd and therefore do not
comply with FAR Sec 91.217 copied here:
"91.217: Data correspondence between automatically reported pressure
altitude data and the pilot's altitude reference.
No person may operate any automatic pressure altitude reporting equipment
associated with a radar beacon transponder-
(a) When deactivation of that equipment is directed by ATC;
(b) Unless, as installed, that equipment was tested and calibrated to
transmit altitude data corresponding within 125 feet (on a 95 percent
probability basis) of the indicated or calibrated datum of the altimeter
normally used to maintain flight altitude, with that altimeter referenced to
29.92 inches of mercury for altitudes from sea level to the maximum
operating altitude of the aircraft; or
(c) Unless the altimeters and digitizers in that equipment meet the
standards of TSO-C10b and TSO-C88, respectively."
So you can see that an altitude encoder in use must meet either be TSO'd or
comply with subparagraph (b) above.
Some people think that the encoder, altimeter, and transponder checks
required every two years by FAR Sections 91.411 and 91.413 meet the
requirements of subparagraph (b) above, but that is not the present position
of FAA HQ. They prescribe a more elaborate, almost impossible to accomplish
test.
So one solution to the problem created by having an EFIS with a non TSO'd
altitude encoder installed in your airplane is to install and use a separate
TSO'd altitude encoder.
If you want to read more on this subject go to the Matronic aeroelectric
list archive and search for 91.217.
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
PS: Some EFIS manufacturers will claim that their altitude encoder "meets
TSO standards". Note that a claim of "meeting TSO standards" and being
actually TSO'd are not the same thing. Ironically some of these non TSO'd
altitude encoders are actually superior in performance and technology than
the standards required by the TSO. The EFIS manufacturers have chosen not to
obtain actual TSO approval for their altitude encoders because of the
expense and bureaucratic burden involved.
------------------------------------------------
> Time: 05:57:43 PM PST US
> Subject: Avionics-List: Questions on avionics
> From: "Rv9APlane" <rv9aplane@gmail.com>
>
>
> Hi all,
> I have a couple of basic questions I don't understand well:
>
> 1. What does it mean to "cage" an attitude indicator? I've never flown a
> plane
> that has had this option but I see it on some I'm considering for my
> homebuilt.
>
> 2. I want a light IFR panel and have read some things about Mode S
> transponders.
> Is there any advantage to having one over a Mode C other than the TIS
> capability?
>
> 3. Is purchasing a separate encoder necessary? I was planning on putting
> a Blue
> Mountain EFIS One in my plane (please no negative comments as I'm already
> committed),
> a Garmin 430W with a GI-106A CDI, and a Garmin 327 transponder (pending
> the answer to number 2 above) in my plane. I see some avionics vendors
> packaging
> in a separate encoder but don't really understand why.
>
> Thanks for your help
>
> --------
> Bruce Peters
> RV9A, Fuselage
> Bakersfield, CA
Message 2
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Subject: | Broken reception on my COMM |
My Comm works fine except when I receive a stronger signal from the local tower.
then the received transmission is broken and I can only hear about 1/2 the instructions.
Any ideas what may be causing this?
Ron
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Subject: | Re: Shunts (Nerds!) |
Bob, you're great, but lighten up. I am a Nerd. I have a
masters in engineering, and last time I mentioned that to
you, you attacked me and bashed engineering and
engineers from here to Sunday. I have lots of respect for
you, but that killed some of it, but I'm a nice forgiving
fellow. I have moved on.
As far as Nerds, I spend 5-6 years in undergrad and grad
school with an HP 41C hanging off my belt. I now dress
nicer and work out more, but I am still a Nerd at heart,
proudly.
As far as an AMP meter being a sensitive VOLT meter, it's
true. An AMP meter with out a shunt is a volt meter.
Basically we all are talking about D'Arsonval movement,
the way analog meters work, where current causes a EMF
(electromagnetic field) in a coil in an opposing direction to
permanent magnets, causing the needle to move. A
torsional (mechanical) spring or coil is calibrated to resist
the needle movement, thus reading a voltage (or current).
You don't need to be an engineer to understand how a
D'Arsonval movement works. I learned this when I was 12
years old, playing with my Radio Shack Science Fair
"160 in 1" electronic kit. However, now I can derive
Faraday equations (or Lenz) & explain the theoretical
physics with advanced math. That makes me a super
Nerd, proudly.
When I said magic Bob, I was being humorous, jocular,
whimsical, an attempt at being witty? Some people don't
need (or want) to know the details to wire a plane. I was
being causal, which is sometimes more productive when
addressing students, who might have anxieties about the
topic. It's just my style Bob, which obviously clashes with
yours.
I never taught "electronics" but I teach a lot of pilots, from
Student to Airline pilots, how the electrical system of a
Cessna to Boeing 747 works. Electrical systems are fun to
me and something I enjoy, not a place for argument or
politicking. It's just not a controversial subject to me. I just
want to help. I don't need to be perfect. As I have said Bob,
you have forgotten about the topic than I'll ever know, but
there is the off chance I know something you don't? I might
explain something in a way which gets through. That's all.
Cheers George the NERD!
PS thanks for the link. As a kid I broke many needle movement
taking them apart to see how they worked.
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Shunts
>At 07:07 AM 4/14/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>>Oh my my. This is why people make fun of tech geeks and nerds, ha-ha.
>Interesting . . . it seems that the same folks would also
>make fun of neurosurgeons, master chefs and physicists.
>Individuals who poke fun at the assemblage of simple-ideas
>into useful inventions are themselves at-risk for not
>enjoying the benefits that arise from understanding . . .
>a kind of self imposed exile to ignorance that leaves
>them dependent upon those who DO understand.
>> Yes voltage, current and EMF are all magically intertwined.
>Nothing magic about it. But the conditions under
>which they interact are not consistent. For example,
>just because there is voltage to be measured doesn't
>automatically translate to a current flow. Similarly,
>there are conditions where huge magnitudes of current
>flow with zero impressed voltage.
>>Even the magic of the hall effect sender puts out proportional
>>volts to current.
>Sort of . . . volts is proportional to the intensity
>of a magnetic field. The magnetic field can come from
>a variety of sources not the least of which is the
>field surrounding a current carrying conductor.
>>But you all are right, there are coils in those mechanical gauges.
>>However a digital meter will read directly off a shunt? Huha? What?
>>Doha! ha-ha.
>Yes, the digital voltmeter takes advantage of the
>voltage drop impressed across a shunt as a result
>of current flow. The measurements obtained by this
>method are independent of simple-ideas involving
>magnetics.
>>Bob your "VAM10_Interior_View link" is not working?
>Yes, I corrected it in the posting that followed
>a few minutes after the first. The working link
>is . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Instruments/VAM40_Interior_View.jpg
>Bob . . .
between 0000-00-00 and 9999-99-99
Message 4
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Subject: | 2 electrical questions - diode and intermittent |
failure
Hi Bob,
Thanks for the usual quick reply.
Just for my brain... If the alternator had a loose wire, wouldn't the
battery still supply the required power? I didn't think I would see the
power drop out if I lost the alternator (I was hoping I would get the low
voltage alarm so I could start the back up alternator).
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: April 14, 2008 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: 2 electrical questions - diode and
intermittent failure
<nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
At 04:20 PM 4/14/2008 -0600, you wrote:
>
>The diode for the battery master, what are the specifications?
>
>Twice now while flying my aircraft (over 100 hours with no problems), my
>main power has flickered. Off and right back on. I just checked all the
>wiring for the master, and the only thing I'm missing is the diode. Ground
>was my obvious place to look, all OK, excellent ground for the master
>switch.
>My next choice is to change out the master solenoid. Any other ideas?
>Rocket - dual alternator with single battery. Standard Z-13 wiring.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Jeff
An intermittent battery master would not cause the
system to go down completely. In fact, it's possible
on some airplanes that an alternator will run reasonably
well without a battery . . . complete loss of the contactor
may not be immediately noticed.
If you're looking for loose wires, everything between
the bus and BOTH power sources (alternator and battery)
should be examined. Unless you soldered your terminals
on a good tug on the fat-wire terminals is in order.
I've seen wires installed with inadequate crimp tools
pull out of their respective terminals without a whole
lot of effort.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Broken reception on my COMM |
At 06:17 AM 4/15/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>My Comm works fine except when I receive a stronger signal from the local
>tower. then the received transmission is broken and I can only hear about
>1/2 the instructions. Any ideas what may be causing this?
>
>Ron
I presume that communication with the tower while
airborne is not a problem and that you've identified
signal strength as the apparent variable. Your receiver
may be suffering from an overload condition that's beyond
its ability to accommodate.
A receiver designer's sorta wet dream is to have the
squelch break at around 0.2 microvolts signal and produce a
readable if somewhat noisy output at 0.5 microvolts
at the antenna. When I was working in the two-way radio
business these were the benchmarks for refurbishing
and aligning a receiver.
A device with this performance level may be hard pressed
to also accept and demodulate a signal of hundreds of
microvolts. The automatic gain system within the receiver
may not have sufficient dynamic range to handle the larger
signal in close proximity to a ground based (read high power)
transmitter.
Do you carry a hand held? Perhaps ground ops is an excellent
time to pre-flight this very useful back up. This may not
be an automatic solution . . . hand helds tend to be a cut
or two below panel mounted or base station receivers and
it may be similarly afflicted with the effects of strong
signal overload . . . but it's the simplest solution and
worth trying.
If push comes to shove, you can install the formation
flying attenuator described at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Attenuator/Formation_Flying_Attenuator_2.pdf
See also pictures at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Attenuator/
Note that this particular design is capable of handling
the output of a 2 watt transmitter continuously. It's
fine for transmitters of 4-6 watt range but don't carry
on long winded conversations.
With this switch in the "attenuate" position, both your
incoming and outgoing signals are considerably reduced
to avoid overloading the receiver in your cockpit and
in the other aircraft's cockpit. The ground station will
have no problem hearing you either.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Broken reception on my COMM |
Jerry,
Read about this problem and Bob's reply. Does it sound familiar? May be
this will give us a fix.
E
In a message dated 4/15/2008 9:52:13 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
nuckolls.bob@cox.net writes:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
At 06:17 AM 4/15/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>My Comm works fine except when I receive a stronger signal from the local
>tower. then the received transmission is broken and I can only hear about
>1/2 the instructions. Any ideas what may be causing this?
>
>Ron
I presume that communication with the tower while
airborne is not a problem and that you've identified
signal strength as the apparent variable. Your receiver
may be suffering from an overload condition that's beyond
its ability to accommodate.
A receiver designer's sorta wet dream is to have the
squelch break at around 0.2 microvolts signal and produce a
readable if somewhat noisy output at 0.5 microvolts
at the antenna. When I was working in the two-way radio
business these were the benchmarks for refurbishing
and aligning a receiver.
A device with this performance level may be hard pressed
to also accept and demodulate a signal of hundreds of
microvolts. The automatic gain system within the receiver
may not have sufficient dynamic range to handle the larger
signal in close proximity to a ground based (read high power)
transmitter.
Do you carry a hand held? Perhaps ground ops is an excellent
time to pre-flight this very useful back up. This may not
be an automatic solution . . . hand helds tend to be a cut
or two below panel mounted or base station receivers and
it may be similarly afflicted with the effects of strong
signal overload . . . but it's the simplest solution and
worth trying.
If push comes to shove, you can install the formation
flying attenuator described at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Attenuator/Formation_Flying_Attenuator_2.
pdf
See also pictures at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Attenuator/
Note that this particular design is capable of handling
the output of a 2 watt transmitter continuously. It's
fine for transmitters of 4-6 watt range but don't carry
on long winded conversations.
With this switch in the "attenuate" position, both your
incoming and outgoing signals are considerably reduced
to avoid overloading the receiver in your cockpit and
in the other aircraft's cockpit. The ground station will
have no problem hearing you either.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money &
Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolcmp00300000002850)
Message 7
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Subject: | Tail Nav Light Ground |
I'm wiring up the tail nav/ strobe light in the lower fiberglass rudder fai
ring for an RV-7. Is there any reason I can't tie the nav light ground to t
he strobe ground? For the tail light, this seems to be the easiest option b
ut wasn't sure about the voltage running through the strobe. It's either th
at or run a wire into the aft fuselage to a local ground.
Jim
Message 8
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Subject: | Bits of aviation history . . . |
See:
http://tinyurl.com/39cbwo
http://www.rbogash.com/B314.html
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Tail Nav Light Ground |
At 07:55 AM 4/15/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>I m wiring up the tail nav/ strobe light in the lower fiberglass rudder
>fairing for an RV-7. Is there any reason I can t tie the nav light ground
>to the strobe ground? For the tail light, this seems to be the easiest
>option but wasn t sure about the voltage running through the strobe. It s
>either that or run a wire into the aft fuselage to a local ground.
You don't want to cause an unbalance of currents
to flow inside the twisted trio of strobe wires.
The physics that make this wire an effective constraint
on coupling of noise depends on integrity of combination
of balanced currents and shielding.
The separate ground wire is called for.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Questions on avionics |
Good Morning OC,
Nice answer to the question asked, but may a I add a bit?
If you intend to do aerobatics and intend to cage the gyros to avoid wear,
it is best to shut of the air first so that the gyro is not spinning while it
is locked up. While being caged will keep it from banging the stops, the
bearings will be exposed to abnormal wear by the gyro being restrained. If the
air is turned of after the gyro is already spun up, a good gyro will take about
thirty minutes to get stopped. Best to shut off the air before the engine is
started.
There is no real good solution, only methods of mitigation.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
628 West 86th Street
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
In a message dated 4/15/2008 7:47:34 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
bakerocb@cox.net writes:
Hello Bruce, You wrote:
"1. What does it mean to "cage" an attitude indicator?"
Some attitude indicators have a mechanical means to lock the gyro gimbals so
that the gyro gimbals are held rigidly to the instrument case. This can
serve two functions:
A) It can save wear and tear on the gyro if you are going to do some
aerobatic maneuvering and don't want the gyro to be moving around
extensively as it tries to always show the proper aircraft attitude.
B) If the gyro has tumbled and one wants to erect it again to a proper
attitude one can put the airplane in a level attitude, cage and then uncage
the gyro, and it will then start indicating properly a level attitude from
that new starting point.
**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money &
Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolcmp00300000002850)
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Tail Nav Light Ground |
I just faced the same issue. I chose to run a separate ground from the
Adel clamp holding the rudder cable.
It also took a bit more effort than expected to get a single lug #4
platenut in there to hold the Whelan. But it worked well.
Jim Piavis wrote:
>
> I'm wiring up the tail nav/ strobe light in the lower fiberglass
> rudder fairing for an RV-7. Is there any reason I can't tie the nav
> light ground to the strobe ground? For the tail light, this seems to
> be the easiest option but wasn't sure about the voltage running
> through the strobe. It's either that or run a wire into the aft
> fuselage to a local ground.
>
>
>
> Jim
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 12
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Subject: | Questions on avionics |
Really the best way to do aerobatics is to fit a glass EFIS...I regularly (
like every flight) wring out my RV and the Dynon scratches its head sometim
es but returns to normal like clockwork. Same for the TT autopilot.
I noticed that Kathy Hirtz does her airshow routines in her Wolf Pitts and
has a Dynon D180 installed..And there is not a more radical aerobatic machi
ne out there.
Its about time the mechanical gyros went the way of the Dodo...As long as y
our airplane is experimental of course.
Frank
________________________________
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectr
ic-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of BobsV35B@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 9:29 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Questions on avionics
Good Morning OC,
Nice answer to the question asked, but may a I add a bit?
If you intend to do aerobatics and intend to cage the gyros to avoid wear,
it is best to shut of the air first so that the gyro is not spinning while
it is locked up. While being caged will keep it from banging the stops, the
bearings will be exposed to abnormal wear by the gyro being restrained. I
f the air is turned of after the gyro is already spun up, a good gyro will
take about thirty minutes to get stopped. Best to shut off the air before t
he engine is started.
There is no real good solution, only methods of mitigation.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
628 West 86th Street
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
In a message dated 4/15/2008 7:47:34 A.M. Central Daylight Time, bakerocb@c
ox.net writes:
Hello Bruce, You wrote:
"1. What does it mean to "cage" an attitude indicator?"
Some attitude indicators have a mechanical means to lock the gyro gimbals s
o
that the gyro gimbals are held rigidly to the instrument case. This can
serve two functions:
A) It can save wear and tear on the gyro if you are going to do some
aerobatic maneuvering and don't want the gyro to be moving around
extensively as it tries to always show the proper aircraft attitude.
B) If the gyro has tumbled and one wants to erect it again to a proper
attitude one can put the airplane in a level attitude, cage and then uncage
the gyro, and it will then start indicating properly a level attitude from
that new starting point.
________________________________
It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money & Finance<http://mon
ey.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolcmp00300000002850>.
Message 13
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Subject: | 2 electrical questions - diode and intermittent |
failure
Something that was a real "Doh!" moment was that I realised I had painted the alternator
bracket...I.e where the ground path was for the alternator...The resistance
of the paint caused a whole bunch of noise that would do little annoyances
like shut the IFR GPS off while on an instrument approach...of course it
would take 10 seconds or so to reset..and then do it again..Not very pleasant!
Just a thought...I.e the connection of the alternator to the engine block is a
vital connection.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of F1 Rocket
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 3:21 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: 2 electrical questions - diode and intermittent failure
--> <f1rocket@telus.net>
The diode for the battery master, what are the specifications?
Twice now while flying my aircraft (over 100 hours with no problems), my main power
has flickered. Off and right back on. I just checked all the wiring for
the master, and the only thing I'm missing is the diode. Ground was my obvious
place to look, all OK, excellent ground for the master switch.
My next choice is to change out the master solenoid. Any other ideas?
Rocket - dual alternator with single battery. Standard Z-13 wiring.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: 2 electrical questions - diode and intermittent |
failure
Anodized alternator brackets can cause the same problems. Guess how I know.
a message dated 4/15/2008 1:27:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
frank.hinde@hp.com writes:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
<frank.hinde@hp.com>
Something that was a real "Doh!" moment was that I realised I had painted
the alternator bracket...I.e where the ground path was for the alternator...The
resistance of the paint caused a whole bunch of noise that would do little
annoyances like shut the IFR GPS off while on an instrument approach...of
course it would take 10 seconds or so to reset..and then do it again..Not very
pleasant!
Just a thought...I.e the connection of the alternator to the engine block is
a vital connection.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of F1 Rocket
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 3:21 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: 2 electrical questions - diode and intermittent
failure
--> <f1rocket@telus.net>
The diode for the battery master, what are the specifications?
Twice now while flying my aircraft (over 100 hours with no problems), my
main power has flickered. Off and right back on. I just checked all the wiring
for the master, and the only thing I'm missing is the diode. Ground was my
obvious place to look, all OK, excellent ground for the master switch.
My next choice is to change out the master solenoid. Any other ideas?
Rocket - dual alternator with single battery. Standard Z-13 wiring.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money &
Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolcmp00300000002850)
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Questions on avionics |
Good Afternoon Frank,
Absolutely and totally agree!
The problem is that the FAA puts so many hurdles in the way that by the time
the stuff gets approved, the cost is way above what normal folks can afford.
Right now, only home builders have any chance of going with modern
equipment.
I do realize that most FAA folks are just as enthusiastic aviators as are
the rest of us, but they are hamstrung with rules that are forced on them by the
Bureaucracy and that Bureaucracy is driven by the Congress critters who do
nothing for us at all.
All they care about is having someone to blame when anything goes wrong.
I recently had the pleasure of flying some twenty-four hours in a Legend Cub
that was equipped with the Dynon 180. I certainly did not learn how to use
all of it's many capabilities, but what I saw, was great.
I have been following Jim Younkin's very rapid development of flight
instruments and autopilots. I love his attitude toward the FAA, but it doesn't
help
we who fly primarily certified aircraft.
Unless someone who is willing to argue with the FAA manages to steal some of
his ideas and get the FAA approval for us to use that much better stuff, we
are stuck with 1920s technology.
Had the FAA been in charge in 1920 we would not yet have mechanical gyros,
let alone anything better!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
628 West 86th Street
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
In a message dated 4/15/2008 12:22:40 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
frank.hinde@hp.com writes:
Really the best way to do aerobatics is to fit a glass EFIS...I regularly
(like every flight) wring out my RV and the Dynon scratches its head sometimes
but returns to normal like clockwork. Same for the TT autopilot.
I noticed that Kathy Hirtz does her airshow routines in her Wolf Pitts and
has a Dynon D180 installed..And there is not a more radical aerobatic machine
out there.
Its about time the mechanical gyros went the way of the Dodo...As long as
your airplane is experimental of course.
Frank
**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money &
Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolcmp00300000002850)
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: 2 electrical questions - diode and intermittent |
failure
MartinErni@aol.com wrote:
> Anodized alternator brackets can cause the same problems. Guess how I know.
>
>
Yeah, but in that case it looks DAMN good while it's not working 8*).
Message 17
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Subject: | Questions on avionics |
Bob.
Aspen Avionics http://www.aspenavionics.com/ recently received the TSO and
the AML STC for their glass PFD.
$6,000 + install for a VFR unit; $10,000 + install for an IFR unit. Not
really cheap, but not as pricey as Garmin or Avidyne. So you guys flying TC
aircraft can get some of the toys without totally busting the bank.
And no more spinning gyros!
Thanks!
Bill Denton
bdenton@bdenton.com
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BobsV35B@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 12:56 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Questions on avionics
Good Afternoon Frank,
Absolutely and totally agree!
The problem is that the FAA puts so many hurdles in the way that by the time
the stuff gets approved, the cost is way above what normal folks can afford.
Right now, only home builders have any chance of going with modern
equipment.
I do realize that most FAA folks are just as enthusiastic aviators as are
the rest of us, but they are hamstrung with rules that are forced on them by
the Bureaucracy and that Bureaucracy is driven by the Congress critters who
do nothing for us at all.
All they care about is having someone to blame when anything goes wrong.
I recently had the pleasure of flying some twenty-four hours in a Legend Cub
that was equipped with the Dynon 180. I certainly did not learn how to use
all of it's many capabilities, but what I saw, was great.
I have been following Jim Younkin's very rapid development of flight
instruments and autopilots. I love his attitude toward the FAA, but it
doesn't help we who fly primarily certified aircraft.
Unless someone who is willing to argue with the FAA manages to steal some of
his ideas and get the FAA approval for us to use that much better stuff, we
are stuck with 1920s technology.
Had the FAA been in charge in 1920 we would not yet have mechanical gyros,
let alone anything better!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
628 West 86th Street
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
In a message dated 4/15/2008 12:22:40 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
frank.hinde@hp.com writes:
Really the best way to do aerobatics is to fit a glass EFIS...I regularly
(like every flight) wring out my RV and the Dynon scratches its head
sometimes but returns to normal like clockwork. Same for the TT autopilot.
I noticed that Kathy Hirtz does her airshow routines in her Wolf Pitts and
has a Dynon D180 installed..And there is not a more radical aerobatic
machine out there.
Its about time the mechanical gyros went the way of the Dodo...As long as
your airplane is experimental of course.
Frank
_____
It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL
<http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolcmp00300000002850> Money & Finance.
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Questions on avionics |
Good Afternoon Bill,
It's getting there!
I do know that they are now saying the entire year's production is already
spoken for.
Last person I spoke to said they figure the installation they ordered would
be at least twenty grand installed. Better than a Garmin, but still a lot of
money. If it was an automotive device, produced in China, and used on a Toyo
ta
it would be fifty bucks!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
628 West 86th Street
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
In a message dated 4/15/2008 1:29:02 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
bdenton@bdenton.com writes:
Bob
Aspen Avionics http://www.aspenavionics.com/ recently received the TSO and
the AML STC for their glass PFD.
$6,000 + install for a VFR unit; $10,000 + install for an IFR unit. Not
really cheap, but not as pricey as Garmin or Avidyne. So you guys flying TC
aircraft can get some of the toys without totally busting the bank.
And no more spinning gyros!
Thanks!
Bill Denton
bdenton@bdenton.com
**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money &
Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolcmp00300000002850)
Message 19
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|
Subject: | Questions on avionics |
Yes I feel for the certified guys...The last IFR proficiency ride i took my
instrument student friend and he kept babbling something about "what about
the precession"....I said "We're not in a precession, we're flying by ours
elves!"
Nice to hear from you again Bob....And you were right, learning IFR in a fa
st airplane is not hard at all...learning in one that happens to be aerobat
ic its a bit of a handful though..:)
Frank RV7a
________________________________
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectr
ic-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of BobsV35B@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Questions on avionics
Good Afternoon Frank,
Absolutely and totally agree!
The problem is that the FAA puts so many hurdles in the way that by the tim
e the stuff gets approved, the cost is way above what normal folks can affo
rd.
Right now, only home builders have any chance of going with modern equipmen
t.
I do realize that most FAA folks are just as enthusiastic aviators as are t
he rest of us, but they are hamstrung with rules that are forced on them by
the Bureaucracy and that Bureaucracy is driven by the Congress critters w
ho do nothing for us at all.
All they care about is having someone to blame when anything goes wrong.
I recently had the pleasure of flying some twenty-four hours in a Legend Cu
b that was equipped with the Dynon 180. I certainly did not learn how to us
e all of it's many capabilities, but what I saw, was great.
I have been following Jim Younkin's very rapid development of flight instru
ments and autopilots. I love his attitude toward the FAA, but it doesn't he
lp we who fly primarily certified aircraft.
Unless someone who is willing to argue with the FAA manages to steal some o
f his ideas and get the FAA approval for us to use that much better stuff,
we are stuck with 1920s technology.
Had the FAA been in charge in 1920 we would not yet have mechanical gyros,
let alone anything better!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
628 West 86th Street
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
In a message dated 4/15/2008 12:22:40 P.M. Central Daylight Time, frank.hin
de@hp.com writes:
Really the best way to do aerobatics is to fit a glass EFIS...I regularly (
like every flight) wring out my RV and the Dynon scratches its head sometim
es but returns to normal like clockwork. Same for the TT autopilot.
I noticed that Kathy Hirtz does her airshow routines in her Wolf Pitts and
has a Dynon D180 installed..And there is not a more radical aerobatic machi
ne out there.
Its about time the mechanical gyros went the way of the Dodo...As long as y
our airplane is experimental of course.
Frank
________________________________
It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money & Finance<http://mon
ey.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolcmp00300000002850>.
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Music Inputs |
Thanks Jim.
I guess it's certainly worth a try, and see if they will pass the pull
test, but I sure wouldn't want to be in hard IFR, and have my MP3 player
all of a sudden be unhearable because of a poor crimp. ~( ;- )
Dustin,
I used a D sub crimper similar to the one Stein sells on Hi
Density D sub pins
and it worked fine. The hi density pins are .050 in diameter
(where the crimp
takes place) while the standard pins are .075. But my crimper
contracts to about
.025 diameter. So I tried a couple and found the wire is nicely
crimped.
You do have to be careful to position the pin correctly in the
crimper as they
are different lengths. But to do a few crimps, a standard d sub
crimper seems
to work OK.
Jim Butcher
Europa N241BW
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Subject: | Ray Allen Trim servos |
ALL,
I am looking for a simple way to reduce the speed of my Ray Allen Trim
servos.
What I need to know is the best way to Slow the speed of the servos down. I
have seen the ray Allen servo speed controller however I would need 2 of
them at $45 each seems a bit pricey, and I was hoping the group has a cost
effective solution.
Could one just use a resistor ? I am guessing the Ray Allen controller is a
PWM maybe some one knows of a cheaper version ?
Any direction would be appreciated
Jeff.
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Ray Allen Trim servos |
On Apr 15, 2008, at 9:07 PM, Jeffrey W. Skiba wrote:
> ALL,
>
> I am looking for a simple way to reduce the speed of my Ray Allen
> Trim servos.
> What I need to know is the best way to Slow the speed of the servos
> down. I have seen the ray Allen servo speed controller however I
> would need 2 of them at $45 each seems a bit pricey, and I was
> hoping the group has a cost effective solution.
>
> Could one just use a resistor ? I am guessing the Ray Allen
> controller is a PWM maybe some one knows of a cheaper version ?
>
> Any direction would be appreciated
> Jeff.
>
>
Jeff,
I have 2 speed controllers and 2 relays that I removed to install a
Safety trim system. They were installed but the plane has never
flown. Make me an offer I can't refuse.
Sheldon Olesen
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: Ray Allen Trim servos |
Jeff,
Simple installation. Very effective, and can be adjusted via a pot to
get it exactly how you want the speed to be. I've got two, brand new in
the box, never used, that I will sell you. I have one mounted on the
elevator trim, bought two more it seems while in a 'buying frenzy'.
I'll sell both for $60 including shipping to lower 48. Email me direct
if interested: mike109g6@insideconnect.net
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeffrey W. Skiba
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 10:07 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Ray Allen Trim servos
ALL,
I am looking for a simple way to reduce the speed of my Ray Allen Trim
servos.
What I need to know is the best way to Slow the speed of the servos
down. I have seen the ray Allen servo speed controller however I would
need 2 of them at $45 each seems a bit pricey, and I was hoping the
group has a cost effective solution.
Could one just use a resistor ? I am guessing the Ray Allen controller
is a PWM maybe some one knows of a cheaper version ?
Any direction would be appreciated
Jeff.
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