Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:41 AM - Re: ELT Antenna for Fiberglass aircraft ()
2. 09:23 AM - Re: Re: Brownout Battery System P.S. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 09:36 AM - navaid devices (Bill and Marsha)
4. 09:36 AM - Re: Hope someone can point me in the right direction for troubleshooting. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 04:47 PM - Mechanical question (John Swartout)
6. 05:47 PM - Re: Mechanical question (Ron Shannon)
7. 05:58 PM - Re: Mechanical question (Ron Shannon)
8. 06:10 PM - Re: Mechanical question (Jim)
Message 1
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| Subject: | ELT Antenna for Fiberglass aircraft |
Thanks Bob et al,
I'll be using 121.5 until someone with a badge walks up to me and says
otherwise. The Morris loop looks like a great option in the < 125 range.
Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 9:48 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: ELT Antenna for Fiberglass aircraft
--> <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
At 10:43 PM 4/22/2008 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Thanks for the feedback. I found two options at
>http://www.wingsandwheels.com/page14.htm One option is to attach a
>surface mount BNC connector, add a simple ground plane over the top and
>stick on a rubber duck. The fancy option is $108.00
>
>Glenn
A rubber duck for VHF hand held is optimized for
VHF and has no specified/controlled performance at
406 Mhz. One can only guess at the Artex ELT product
but one would like to believe that a qualified ELT
product includes a multi-frequency antenna.
If you're willing to go the VHF comm antenna route,
then consider the Morris loop described at:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Morris_Com_Loop_Antenna.pdf
This will out-perform a 125 Mhz optimized rubber duck
at all frequencies of interest for ELT performance.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Brownout Battery System P.S. |
At 10:22 AM 4/23/2008 -0700, you wrote:
><Thomas.N.Gautier@jpl.nasa.gov>
>
>Bob,
>
> I looked at your Z13-8B(BrownOutBattery).pdf. It seems to me
>that the only reason not to hook a battery like the Panasonic LC-R127R2P
>directly to the endurance bus and do away with the brown-out
>battery relay, alternate feed relay and the E-bus alternate feed switch
>is that the battery won't charge properly through the diode
>connecting the main bus to the endurance bus. However, what if you use
>a shottky diode for the main bus/endurance bus connection?
You always need the alternate feed relay (or switch). You don't want
to leave the e-bus hot when the airplane is parked. You also need a way
to pre-flight the normal feedpath.
> The power shottky on the Perihelion Design site apparently has about
>0.2v forward drop. The Panasonic spec sheet you pointed to says, if I
>read it right, that the battery needs 13.6-13.8 v terminal voltage to trickle
>charge. So the brown-out battery should stay charged OK if the alternator
>is regulated to supply more than 14.0 v, which I understand it has to do to
>keep the main battery charged.
The Shottky diode is alluring . . . but it needs to
be insulated from ground and perhaps heat-sinked. It's
also probably more expensive than the plastic cube relay.
Having said that, since the brown-out battery is not needed
to bolster capacity and is only expected to carry a load for
tens of milliseonds per flight cycle, then the diode is certainly
an option. Diode isolation would be the architecture of choice for the
capacitor based brown-out technique discussed in the earlier
post.
But in either case, the alternate feedpath switch/relay is
called for.
> Am I missing something simple (or subtle) that makes this not work or
>a bad idea?
Keep in mind that during battery only operations, this same
diode would be in series with a voltage source that is
already depressed below 'normal' bus voltage. What you
propose would probably function at some level. But for the
moment, I'll have to continue to champion hard-closed contacts
of relays and switches as being more efficient and lower cost
of ownership without impacting system reliability.
Now, a Shottky diode in the normal feedpath is certainly
an option. But the "advantage" of lower voltage drop looses
its luster . . . while the alternator is running you have
watts-to-burn. So I'll suggest that the selection of this
diode should include considerations of cost and convenience
in mounting.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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I just learned that as of yesterday Navaid Devices has closed
their doors. Anyone have any more info?
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Hope someone can point me in the right direction |
for troubleshooting.
At 11:10 PM 4/23/2008 -0400, you wrote:
> I have come upon a problem. My plane is wired per Z-19 with two
> batteries. Everything has been working fine. A couple of days ago, I
> started the installation of my radios. To do so, I had to lean my panel
> forward to gain access to the back.
>
>When I next started the engine, I could hear what sounded like a loose
>strap blowing and hitting against the bottom of the plane. I have since
>found that this sound is caused by one of the solenoids making a clicking
>noise. This sound would go away if I turned the alternator off, but the
>alternator was outputting power when it was on. The next day, I found
>that I could not get the alternator to output power at all. But&the
>clicking sound was gone!
>
>I removed both the alternator and voltage regulator and had them
>checked. Both are working&Just not on my plane!
>
>I am suspicious that I either have a hot wire loose or a ground has come
>off. Does it sound to any of you like this could be the problem?
>
>I will check for that tomorrow, but then I will be completely out of ideas
>as to what to try.
>
>
>Maybe someone can help here?
You're faced with the classic troubleshooting problem.
There are lots of places where a gross disconnect
can occur to produce the symptoms you cite. Fortunately
it's not an intermittent problem so your aiming at
moving target. Sorry I cannot be more specific.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Mechanical question |
Does anyone have a nice, elegant method for mounting on a flat surface the in-line
automotive-type fuse-holder sold by B&C? It has no built-in mounting tab
or any such thing.
Thanks.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Mechanical question |
On Thu, Apr 24, 2008 at 4:43 PM, John Swartout <jgswartout@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> jgswartout@earthlink.net>
>
>
> Does anyone have a nice, elegant method for mounting on a flat surface the
> in-line automotive-type fuse-holder sold by B&C? It has no built-in
> mounting tab or any such thing.
>
If you're referring to B&C's "HFB" inline yellow fuse holder, an
MS21919-WDG11 "Adel" clamp works well -- nice and snug --on the one end
where there's space for it.
Ron
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Mechanical question |
On Thu, Apr 24, 2008 at 5:43 PM, Ron Shannon <rshannon@cruzcom.com> wrote:
> On Thu, Apr 24, 2008 at 4:43 PM, John Swartout <jgswartout@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
>
>> jgswartout@earthlink.net>
>>
>>
>> Does anyone have a nice, elegant method for mounting on a flat surface the
>> in-line automotive-type fuse-holder sold by B&C? It has no built-in
>> mounting tab or any such thing.
>>
>
> If you're referring to B&C's "HFB" inline yellow fuse holder, an
> MS21919-WDG11 "Adel" clamp works well -- nice and snug --on the one end
> where there's space for it.
>
> Ron
>
You're probably referring instead to the black blade-style fuse holder
(IFH-2) though. You can put a black cable "zip" tie around the base (circle
parallel to the wire) attached to a stick-on nylon zip tie holder. The
holder will keep it off the surface a bit which aids access to the fuse. Not
super "elegant", but it works.
Ron
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Mechanical question |
John,
The Buss fuse holders that I used had recessed holes suitable for number 8
machine screws. The local hardware store aircraft section supplied screws of
correct length.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Swartout" <jgswartout@earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 4:43 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Mechanical question
> <jgswartout@earthlink.net>
>
>
> Does anyone have a nice, elegant method for mounting on a flat surface the
> in-line automotive-type fuse-holder sold by B&C? It has no built-in
> mounting tab or any such thing.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> --
> Checked by AVG.
> 7:24 AM
>
>
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