Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:24 AM - Re: Antenna choice (Dale Ensing)
2. 04:08 AM - Re: Re: Copper Bar vs "FAT" wire (Ken)
3. 04:56 AM - Re: z13/8 question (Jerry Ricciotti)
4. 06:28 AM - Re: Copper Bar vs "FAT" wire (Speedy11@aol.com)
5. 06:35 AM - Re: Re: Copper Bar vs "FAT" wire (Larry Mac Donald)
6. 06:45 AM - Re: Epoxy to Aluminum (Eric M. Jones)
7. 07:02 AM - Another fat wire lug connection (paul wilson)
8. 09:44 AM - Re: Another fat wire lug connection (Ernest Christley)
9. 11:25 AM - Re: Generally accepted wiring practices ()
10. 04:48 PM - Re: Re: Copper Bar vs "FAT" wire (Mike Kimball)
11. 07:51 PM - Re: Copper Bar vs "FAT" wire (Emrath)
12. 09:47 PM - Re: Another fat wire lug connection (Robert McCallum)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Antenna choice |
My research when I purchased was to spend the money and get a good one.
Have a Comant and not sorry.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Leikam
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 12:08 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Antenna choice
Is it necessary to purchase expensive comant antenna's or are less
expensive bent whip belly mounts as good?
Dave Leikam
RV-10
Ready to install some antennas
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Copper Bar vs "FAT" wire |
Since heat dissapation is not an issue for me, I just wrapped them in
silicone self sticking tape. It sticks to itself with no adhesive and
unlike electrical tape, it seems to last forever unless you cut it off.
Ken
Ron Shannon wrote:
> One reason I decided to use cable instead of bar is that when combined
> with terminal boots, the cable is insulated against a variety of
> accidental shorts (falling wires, tools, moisture, whatever) whether in
> operation or maintenance.
>
> Is there a good way to insulate bars?
>
> Ron
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: z13/8 question |
Many Thanks
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 10:53 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: z13/8 question
> <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>
> At 09:54 AM 4/29/2008 -0400, you wrote:
>
>><gfr56@comcast.net>
>>
>>Greetings
>> Refering to the Fig Z-13/8 and the wiring of the Endurance bus the
>>connection from the Main bus is not protected with a fuse or breaker
>>yet the feed from the battery bus is protected with a fuse at the bus
>>block and a fuse link between the e-bus alternate feed switch and the
>>endurance bus, what is the concept behind this?
>
> Note the (*) symbol on short feeders which if kept
> down to 6" or so, are not generally considered worthy
> of protection. If the main and e-bus fuse blocks are
> co-located with the normal feedpath diode, then protection
> can be dispensed with.
>
>>Also on the same figure Z-13/8 the connection between the DC Power
>>Master Switch and the Main Power Distribution Bus has both a breaker
>>and a fuse link, what is concept behind this?
>
> The wire from the bus to the alternator field breaker is an
> EXTENSION of the bus . . . which is also a long wire and
> generally worthy of some protection. However, if you use
> crowbar ov protection, the fusing-constant for the upstream
> protection needs to be much longer than the fusing constant
> for the crow-bar breaker. Hence, the fusible link which will
> carry enough current to crow-bar the breaker without
> opening itself.
>
>>On the same diagram the wire gage for the connection between the Main
>>Power Distribution Bus and the Endurance Bus has an * denoting "6
>>inches or less" . In my installation the wire run will be longer than
>>six inches. Do I need to use a larger gage wire?
>
> The "six-inch-rule" is a wiring practice adopted by the
> certificated aircraft world for the purpose of deciding
> whether or not fault protection is needed. It's up to
> you if you want to adopt a "12-inch-rule" . . . or whatever.
> It's not a wire size issue.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------)
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Copper Bar vs "FAT" wire |
Ron,
I put heat shrink on the portions of the bar that are not needed for
connections and used terminal boots at the connection points. You have to work
the
boots a bit, but they fit.
Some guys put screws with nuts through the connection points on the bar with
a washer on each side and then dipped the whole bar in that plastic coat
stuff used on tool handles and then cut around the edge of the washers and
remove the screws and washers to reveal the bare connection points. I tried that
technique, but didn't have good results. You could probably make it work if
you spent some time perfecting it.
Stan Sutterfield
Do not archive
One reason I decided to use cable instead of bar is that when combined with
terminal boots, the cable is insulated against a variety of accidental
shorts (falling wires, tools, moisture, whatever) whether in operation or
maintenance.
Is there a good way to insulate bars?
**************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car
listings at AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851)
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Copper Bar vs "FAT" wire |
Yes. A liquid semi-hard rubber called Plastisol.
On Tue, 29 Apr 2008 10:31:32 -0700 "Ron Shannon" <rshannon@CRUZCOM.COM>
writes:
Is there a good way to insulate bars?
Ron
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Epoxy to Aluminum |
After following this thread it occurred to me that I had to learn ONE very important
thing when using epoxy particularly--there must be epoxy in the bonded interface...Duh....It
is easy to prepare the surfaces, put epoxy on one or both
parts and press or clamp the parts together squeezing out virtually ALL the epoxy.
Thus no bonded joint, or the bond has inadequate flexibility and fails.
Pay attention to the minimum bond-line specification, or failing that, if the joint
is between two very flat surfaces, assure that a few thousandths bond-line
remains.
"A witty saying proves nothing."
--Voltaire
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=180233#180233
Message 7
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Subject: | Another fat wire lug connection |
Comments solicited
<http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=59>http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=59
The world of car battery connections. The link shows a popular way to
deal with soldering the big cables.
The last pic also shows his alt to batt cable with the fat fuse. Used
for high amp alts for the off road guys.
Paul
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Another fat wire lug connection |
paul wilson wrote:
> Comments solicited
> <http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=59>http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=59
>
> The world of car battery connections. The link shows a popular way to
> deal with soldering the big cables.
> The last pic also shows his alt to batt cable with the fat fuse. Used
> for high amp alts for the off road guys.
>
> Paul
Good-gawd!!!
The propane torch is WAY oversized for this job. It's like using a Mack
truck to race around a picnic table 8*)
Get one of the $8 butane torches. They're useful for all sorts of
things other than making fat cables, and you won't set the house on fire
doing it 8*)
Message 9
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Subject: | Generally accepted wiring practices |
Thanks Bob...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 10:58 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Generally accepted wiring practices
--> <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
At 09:37 AM 4/29/2008 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Question: When attaching fast-on connectors to wire, is it generally
>good to heat shrink every connector?
I don't think so. Closing things up without making
it a hermetic seal only encourages entrapment of moisture.
>Is there a standard for when I
>should use heat-shrink and when I can ignore it? I understand the value
>of labeling, but that is irrelevant for this question.
None I've seen. I leave them hanging out in the breeze
to get dry fast if ever subjected to drip, splash or
condensation. I've never seen anyone cover them in
a production environment either but it's a low-risk
concern . . . so if you like a more "finished" look,
it will probably be just fine.
> In practice I have also used liquid electrical tape to
>backfill open connectors. It appears that has the same effect of
>keeping dirt out, but may not have the tensile strength required if the
>squirrels get busy.
??? If you have PIDG style terminals attached with the appropriate
tool, no further processing is needed.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Copper Bar vs "FAT" wire |
I split a piece of appropriately sized rubber hose lengthwise then pushed it
over the bar with the connections to the bar coming out through the split.
Then I just used wire ties to keep the hose in place.
Mike Kimball
Murphy Super Rebel
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Speedy11@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 5:24 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Copper Bar vs "FAT" wire
Ron,
I put heat shrink on the portions of the bar that are not needed for
connections and used terminal boots at the connection points. You have to
work the boots a bit, but they fit.
Some guys put screws with nuts through the connection points on the bar with
a washer on each side and then dipped the whole bar in that plastic coat
stuff used on tool handles and then cut around the edge of the washers and
remove the screws and washers to reveal the bare connection points. I tried
that technique, but didn't have good results. You could probably make it
work if you spent some time perfecting it.
Stan Sutterfield
Do not archive
One reason I decided to use cable instead of bar is that when combined with
terminal boots, the cable is insulated against a variety of accidental
shorts (falling wires, tools, moisture, whatever) whether in operation or
maintenance.
Is there a good way to insulate bars?
_____
Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at
AOL Autos <http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851> .
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Copper Bar vs "FAT" wire |
Ron, How about some large diameter shrink tubing?
Marty
Time: 12:55:59 PM PST US
From: "Ron Shannon" <rshannon@CRUZCOM.COM>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Copper Bar vs "FAT" wire
One reason I decided to use cable instead of bar is that when combined with
terminal boots, the cable is insulated against a variety of accidental
shorts (falling wires, tools, moisture, whatever) whether in operation or
maintenance.
Is there a good way to insulate bars?
Ron
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Another fat wire lug connection |
Ernest;
While I agree with you totally, you must admit that the results depicted
in the photos appear to be pretty good.
Bob McC
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ernest Christley" <echristley@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Another fat wire lug connection
<echristley@nc.rr.com>
>
> paul wilson wrote:
> > Comments solicited
> >
<http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=59>http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=5
9
> >
> > The world of car battery connections. The link shows a popular way
to
> > deal with soldering the big cables.
> > The last pic also shows his alt to batt cable with the fat fuse.
Used
> > for high amp alts for the off road guys.
> >
> > Paul
> Good-gawd!!!
>
> The propane torch is WAY oversized for this job. It's like using a
Mack
> truck to race around a picnic table 8*)
> Get one of the $8 butane torches. They're useful for all sorts of
> things other than making fat cables, and you won't set the house on
fire
> doing it 8*)
>
>
>
>
>
>
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