---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 05/16/08: 21 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 06:48 AM - Re: Re: PMA-6000 intercom 28V install (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 2. 07:38 AM - Close to the battery () 3. 08:05 AM - Re: Close to the battery (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 4. 08:57 AM - Re: Dual redundant electrical system (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 5. 09:08 AM - Re: Close to the battery () 6. 10:54 AM - ANL Distribution Panel () 7. 10:57 AM - Dynon , sl40, pm1000II, and GTX327 Pinout numbers (gcarnforth) 8. 11:46 AM - Re: Close to the battery (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 9. 12:36 PM - Re: Dynon , sl40, pm1000II, and GTX327 Pinout numbers () 10. 12:40 PM - Re: ANL Distribution Panel (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 11. 01:35 PM - Re: 6 AWG vs Copper Bar (Henry Trzeciakowski) 12. 02:37 PM - Re: Avoiding strobe noise? (Henry Trzeciakowski) 13. 02:51 PM - Re: Re: PMA-6000 intercom 28V install (Ernest Christley) 14. 05:25 PM - Re: Dual redundant electrical system (Ron Quillin) 15. 06:01 PM - Re: Dual redundant electrical system (Ron Shannon) 16. 06:23 PM - Re: Dual redundant electrical system (Ron Quillin) 17. 06:27 PM - Re: Dual redundant electrical system (Robert McCallum) 18. 07:04 PM - Re: Dynon , sl40, pm1000II, and GTX327 Pinout numbers (Ron Shannon) 19. 07:30 PM - Re: Dual redundant electrical system (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 20. 07:31 PM - Re: Avoiding strobe noise? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 21. 07:31 PM - Re: Re: 6 AWG vs Copper Bar (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:48:42 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: PMA-6000 intercom 28V install At 01:55 PM 5/15/2008 -0700, you wrote: > >To be clear, a switching power brick (aka DC-DC converter) turns DC >into AC then processes it and reconverts to DC. This process makes >audio and potentially RF noise. Noise injected into your intercom >will be a much worse problem than an old resistor hung on your firewall. DC to DC converters come in all flavors. Modern devices have internal operating frequencies in the hundreds of kilohertz and generally do not present a noise issue to audio systems. They have been BIG issues to low frequency nav aids like VLF Omega and LORAN but few folks use these technologies. The next most vulnerable system would be an AM radio . . . generally used for listening to ball games while airborne. They have packaging issues. I'm aware of no bolt-in-and-wire- it-up product suited to this task. DC to DC converters come packaged as components for a larger assembly. Here's an exemplar device: http://www.lambdapower.com/ftp/Manuals/pxe_single_ins.pdf So after you've selected a device with the right power ratings, now you have to put it in a package of some kind with screw terminals, push on tabs or perhaps a connector of some kind. Of course this also offers an opportunity to add whatever filtering is necessary to live responsibly with the DO-160 rules of engagement. >A resistor should also be about 1/10 the cost of a power brick. I >would guess available of amps to squander in a voltage dropping resistor >would not be an issue in your RV-10. Dropping resistors are, as a rule, to be avoided if there are more elegant solutions at hand. Back when 12v cars were coming into the marketplace, one could purchase a "Glo-Bar" resistor designed to drop 12v down to 6v for the purpose of installing a legacy 6v radio in a new 12v car. These ran rather warm (30 watts or so) and the "squandering" of energy was significant but not overtaxing to the system that produced 300+ watts. In this case, we're considering a system that draws perhaps 100 mA in a quiescent state (1.5 volts dropped across the 15-ohm resistor and tossing off 150 MILLIwatts) and averages perhaps 300 mA while listening to some music (4.5v drop and 1.3 watts). Peak currents pushing 1A would run the PEAK dissipation in the dropping resistor up to 10-15 watts or so . . . but this is exceedingly transient . . . in a system that produces over 1000 watts of useable power makes this decision electrically trivial. The BIG driver in these deliberations is the hassle and expense of $time$ that it would take to put a DC to DC converter in a system that probably should have been fitted with such capabilities from the factory. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:38:19 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Close to the battery From: I have two of the six pack fuse blocks from B & C that I want to use for battery 1 & 2 respectively (Z19). The diagram indicates "close to the battery". I take that as on the firewall if batteries are mounted as such. Does anyone know if B & C or other makes covers for this fuse block? Naturally If I mount them on the firewall, I want to keep the rif-raf out. There's always duct tape, but we need a little style here. Thanks ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 08:05:24 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Close to the battery At 10:26 AM 5/16/2008 -0400, you wrote: > >I have two of the six pack fuse blocks from B & C that I want to use for >battery 1 & 2 respectively (Z19). The diagram indicates "close to the >battery". I take that as on the firewall if batteries are mounted as >such. > >Does anyone know if B & C or other makes covers for this fuse block? >Naturally If I mount them on the firewall, I want to keep the rif-raf >out. There's always duct tape, but we need a little style here. The easiest cover is to use threaded spacers as 'nuts' to mount the fuse block. Bring screws through the mounting surface and cut them just long enough to get good thread engagement. Make spacers long enough to extend just above the tops of seated fuses. Cut a plate of the right size to cover the block. You could consider bending flanges on it that would droop down over the fuses and offer more coverage. A piece of sheet rubber on the underside of the cover would let you screw the cover down 'solid' and still not put the supper-munch on the fuses. Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:57:33 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dual redundant electrical system At 11:27 PM 5/15/2008 -0400, you wrote: >Bob, thanks for the reply. As requested, I'm sending you the 2 schematic >files in .pdf format for reposting. They are much larger than the .dwg and >.dxf files, so I am sending them right to you rather than via the Matrox >file server. I can also give them to you in a variety of AutoCad formats >if that would be better. The .pdf files are fine. I've posted them to my server at: http://www.aeroelectric.com/_temp/ I'll invite folks on the List to go get them and participate in this thread as the spirit moves them . . . >I think from some of your comments that you may have misunderstood my >intentions in sending out a request for comments. I am not trying to >propose a new standard. The standard as far as I can see is your Z14 >design, I have seen numerous references to it in my research on the Net, >and as I indicated I have read your book several times. I have thoroughly >analysed Z13 and Z14. You have a lot of good ideas, which is why right up >front in my letter I acknowledged your contributions. However there are >some drawbacks to Z14 from my perspective, and since you have requested >it, I will mention a few specifics. below. Not at all. The works published in the 'Connection are not intended to be the "final solution". They're drawings that were evolved to meet certain design goals. >However, my intention was not to knock your design, but to see if in fact >anyone could find any safety or reliability flaws in something I came up >with. Also, it may be more obvious when you get a look at a clearer >drawing that a significant part of the complexity you refer to is due to >the AeroSance FADEC system. That is specified by AeroSance, not me, and >includes 2 additional switch controlled buses dedicated to the control >system, and their own starter switch, fuel pump control switch, and fuel >pump relay. Absolutely understand . . . and no offense taken. My mission with channeling this discussion is to offer it as a learning experience for folks on the List. Another element of the mission is to justify a modicum of my time to participate without asking for a indenturship documents on your first-born. We can increase the depth of the study by involving lots of folks on the List while not taxing my presently tight schedule. >Regarding the lighting circuit, if you concede that wig-wag landing lights >enhance safety, the traditional toggle-switch approach would require 5 >toggle switches; Nav, Strobes, Wig-Wag/Steady, Taxi and Landing. I don't >see how this could reduce pilot workload compared to a rotary switch plus >a rocker switch. The circuits behind those controls would appear less >complex if there was a readily-available high-reliability switch to >control each circuit directly, but for my application- again, I'm not >proposing this as a standard- 4 relays, a rocker and a rotary switch vs 5 >toggle switch is a good tradeoff against reduced pilot workload and more >time looking outside the cockpit. > >As requested, here are some reasons why Z14 did not meet my needs. One of >the things I wanted to ensure enhanced reliability was minimal firewall >penetration by power circuits, and fuse protection where this was >unavoidable. As I began looking at integrating Z14 with the FADEC >circuits, some conflicts became apparent. The RV7 standard battery >configuration is on the engine side of the firewall, and there are quite a >few power circuits to the FADEC on the engine side as well. Using a >grounding cockpit switch to remotely control the FADEC bus meant all the >critical power circuits for the FADEC would remain in the engine >compartment- shorter wires, fewer firewall penetrations, and greater >reliability. > >This still left an unavoidable firewall penetration by the main battery >feed to the cockpit circuitry however, and a fault on that extended cable >would do serious damage before it could be switched off manually via the >traditional master relay. Fuse protecting this line and using a lighter >lower power master relay in the cockpit right next to the bus it fed was >to me a logical step, I've already noted that I don't see isolating the >starter solenoid as necessary. > >There are 3 issues with the Z14 cross-feed contactor from my perspective. >First is that according to Bill Bainbridge of B&C I won't need to parallel >batteries with his starter. Second is that I would need an avionics master >switch- single contingency failure point and one more part to fail as you >have noted- to isolate the EFISs from the batteries during start. Third is >that if a fault appeared in the wrong spot-such as the unprotected line >between master relay and bus- switching in the cross-feed contactor to >bring on the backup alternator would immediately fail that circuit as >well. An additional objection to the circuit as shown, from my >perspective, is combining the starter and cross-feed control into a single >switch. If there is to be manual intervention required in an emergency, it >should be with a separate dedicated clearly marked switch, not the switch >you've used a thousand times to start the engine. > >The diode-isolated bus automatically brings the backup system on line (no >pilot intervention) to sustain the critical circuits, prevents backfeeding >into a fault on the failed side, and it is less complex and more reliable >than a manual switch, relay and warning lamp. > >Let me make it clear that I'm not bashing your design- you asked me why it >doesn't meet my personal goals, and that's what I've done. In fact, what >I've done above is what I was hoping to have done to my design; have clear >specific points made about what might be problematic. Comments like more >complex, may not meet design goals of failure tolerance, reduced weight & >workload etc don't really help me if I don't know where it fails in these >regards. Everyone benefits when specific construction criticism advances >the state of the art and/or encourages people to keep contributing new ideas. Very good sir. I've looked this over briefly but I'll throw it out to the folks on the List with the notion of joining in as time permits. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 09:08:10 AM PST US Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Close to the battery From: Thanks Bob, Great idea. I believe I have seen suitable spacers made from nylock. We'll give it a go. Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 10:58 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Close to the battery --> At 10:26 AM 5/16/2008 -0400, you wrote: > >I have two of the six pack fuse blocks from B & C that I want to use >for battery 1 & 2 respectively (Z19). The diagram indicates "close to >the battery". I take that as on the firewall if batteries are mounted >as such. > >Does anyone know if B & C or other makes covers for this fuse block? >Naturally If I mount them on the firewall, I want to keep the rif-raf >out. There's always duct tape, but we need a little style here. The easiest cover is to use threaded spacers as 'nuts' to mount the fuse block. Bring screws through the mounting surface and cut them just long enough to get good thread engagement. Make spacers long enough to extend just above the tops of seated fuses. Cut a plate of the right size to cover the block. You could consider bending flanges on it that would droop down over the fuses and offer more coverage. A piece of sheet rubber on the underside of the cover would let you screw the cover down 'solid' and still not put the supper-munch on the fuses. Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 10:54:05 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: ANL Distribution Panel From: I was reading my Porsche Boxster repair manual the other day... Porsche uses a distribution box which has 5-6 ANL fuses mounted inside. Picture it as a fuse block with hookups for ANL type fuses. The purpose is to distribute current protected by various amperage ANL's to fuse blocks segments which are organized by function and size. Has anyone attempted this kind of design and is there any value of which surpasses the increased part count? Thanks Do Not Archive ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 10:57:09 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dynon , sl40, pm1000II, and GTX327 Pinout numbers From: "gcarnforth" Hello! I have been motoring along on my RV7 and have always been able to find answers in the archives. I am having troubles firing up my panel and am in the process of going back through the harness. Does anyone have the pin numbers for connecting these units? Flightdek to GTX327 SL40 to PM1000II I have the diagrams but anyone with the pin numbers would help verify what I have done right/wrong Thanks G carnforth RV7 louisville KY -------- G. Carnforth Louisville, KY RV7 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183459#183459 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 11:46:42 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Close to the battery At 12:04 PM 5/16/2008 -0400, you wrote: > >Thanks Bob, > Great idea. I believe I have seen suitable spacers made from >nylock. We'll give it a go. You may need to make them. Got access to a lathe? If push comes to shove, you can use aluminum rod stock. Cut length just longer than you need for finished part. Chuck stock in drill press and grab bit in drill press vise. By turning the stock and holding drill stationary, you can take advantage of tendency for drill to center automatically. Start out with small pilot drill and then finally drill with size appropriate to thread size you plan to use (probably 6-32 or 8-32). Tread both ends of the part before sanding carefully to achieve proper length and flatness of ends. Then use countersink or oversized drill to chamfer/de-burr edges of finished holes. Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 12:36:15 PM PST US Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Dynon , sl40, pm1000II, and GTX327 Pinout numbers From: G. Not to confuse you, but I have them for the Dynon, sl30 and GTX330. Not exact, but close family. If you get stuck, they may help. They are hard copy so I'll need to scan them in (Monday). I'll bet the sl40 is the same as the sl30 w/o the nav junk. Don't know about the 330 since it has different options than the 327. Thanks -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of gcarnforth Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 1:54 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dynon , sl40, pm1000II, and GTX327 Pinout numbers --> Hello! I have been motoring along on my RV7 and have always been able to find answers in the archives. I am having troubles firing up my panel and am in the process of going back through the harness. Does anyone have the pin numbers for connecting these units? Flightdek to GTX327 SL40 to PM1000II I have the diagrams but anyone with the pin numbers would help verify what I have done right/wrong Thanks G carnforth RV7 louisville KY -------- G. Carnforth Louisville, KY RV7 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183459#183459 ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 12:40:23 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: ANL Distribution Panel At 01:50 PM 5/16/2008 -0400, you wrote: > >I was reading my Porsche Boxster repair manual the other day... > >Porsche uses a distribution box which has 5-6 ANL fuses mounted inside. >Picture it as a fuse block with hookups for ANL type fuses. The purpose >is to distribute current protected by various amperage ANL's to fuse >blocks segments which are organized by function and size. > >Has anyone attempted this kind of design and is there any value of which >surpasses the increased part count? The ANL style fuse is the easiest device to accommodate with a DIY fuse block. Further, know that there are some miniature siblings to the relatively 'boss-hogg' ANL devices. Here's an ANL base: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuse_Holders/ANN-ANL_Base.jpg Here's a base intended to mount the MEGA series current limiters: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuses/all_mega.JPG http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuses/megafuse250.gif http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuse_Holders/mfb736_angle.gif http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuse_Holders/mfb736_dwg.jpg Here are some alternative, high current, stud mounted devices: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuses/ABI_fuses.jpg http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuses/BF2.jpg The common thread for mounting these or similar fuses is a pair of sturdy, captive threaded posts. These can be steel bolts (we don't depend on bolt for current carrying). Fabricate a block from sturdy, insulating material like phenolic, Delrin, Polysulphone, etc. You need some sheet material with a thickness on the order of 1/2 to 5/8 inch. Drill hole pattern for installation of one or more fuses. Counter bore back side to take heads of bolts just under flush. Install bolts with one nut and no washer. Pot the head of the bolt with JB Weld. After epoxy sets up, remove nut and re=install using thread locker on nut. JB Weld works here too. Torque down real good. Of course, you'll need mounting holes in the base for installation. You may also need a copper sheet or brass bus-bar between studs at one end. Go 3/4" wide x .062 or more thickness. After the stud-nuts cure, install in a/c and set your fuse down first before stacking terminals onto the studs. Put flat washer on and secure with fiber lock-nut torqued to value recommended by AC43.13 for steel parts of same size. Hold your wires stationary while applying final torque so that you avoid this: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuses/ANL_Twisted.jpg Once assembled, the system is quite stable due to rigidity of the potted heads on studs. Bottom line is that with a little time at the table saw, drill press and belt sander, you can build a perfectly acceptable fuse block for any of the many choices of stud-mounted protective devices. Here's a multi-fuse installation on a production aircraft: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Wiring_Technique/Contactor_Interconnect/Contactor_Strap_3.jpg We COULD have made a much smaller and lighter installation from scratch but the qualification costs were prohibitive. You folks are not so hindered . . . Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 01:35:26 PM PST US From: "Henry Trzeciakowski" Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: 6 AWG vs Copper Bar Bob: Insteard of using 6 AWG from starter contctor to Current Limiter, I want to use .063 copper bar...is that adequate or should I use .125. thanks ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 12:33 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Avoiding strobe noise? > > At 07:16 AM 5/15/2008 -0700, you wrote: > > >I am building a 601XL (all aluminum), and have located the COMM antenna on > >the bottom of the fuselage between the seats. (It's a taildragger, so > >this is behind the gear.) I have the primary battery under the right seat > >and am holding off locating the second battery until I see how the W&B > >turns out. > > > >It has turned out to be convenient, wiring-wise, to locate the strobe > >power supply, an XPAK-604X-HR, under the left seat. In this location, the > >coax to the COMM antenna and at least one of the wires to the strobe heads > >will end up in close proximity. > > > >My question is: Assuming the coax is properly terminated and the strobe > >cables' shields are properly grounded at one end, is there going to be a > >problem with strobe noise interfering with communications? (The strobe > >cables have a foil shield with a drain wire. The drain wire is grounded to > >the wing structure at the tip.) > > > >If a problem is likely, are there any additional precautions I could take > >to avoid one? > > > > Every time someone reports a "noise problem cured > by repositioning wiring" it was a demonstration of > some OTHER root cause. > > When products are qualified to be used on airplanes, > they are qualified to both control emissions and > withstand certain stresses that are known to exist > in the aircraft environment. > > The wiring you've cited are not particularly > communicative with respect to noise . . . assuming > that the installation of said wires is in accordance > with manufacturer's instructions. > > In the heavy iron birds, we are seldom blessed with > enough room to run all the wires that are necessary > for operation much less comb them into potentially > antagonistic and/or victim systems. > > The short answer is run them neatly together and > you'll be fine. > > Bob . . . > > > ----------------------------------------) > ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) > ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) > ( appearance of being right . . . ) > ( ) > ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) > ---------------------------------------- > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 02:37:30 PM PST US From: "Henry Trzeciakowski" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Avoiding strobe noise? So Bob: as long as all wires are installed and grounded per maunfacture's spec, running (stringing) wires like Strobe Power Supply, Nav/Com, Transponder, Flaps, Pitot Heat together along the bottom of a fuselage and thru bulkheads together are OK ? Hank ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 12:33 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Avoiding strobe noise? > > At 07:16 AM 5/15/2008 -0700, you wrote: > > >I am building a 601XL (all aluminum), and have located the COMM antenna on > >the bottom of the fuselage between the seats. (It's a taildragger, so > >this is behind the gear.) I have the primary battery under the right seat > >and am holding off locating the second battery until I see how the W&B > >turns out. > > > >It has turned out to be convenient, wiring-wise, to locate the strobe > >power supply, an XPAK-604X-HR, under the left seat. In this location, the > >coax to the COMM antenna and at least one of the wires to the strobe heads > >will end up in close proximity. > > > >My question is: Assuming the coax is properly terminated and the strobe > >cables' shields are properly grounded at one end, is there going to be a > >problem with strobe noise interfering with communications? (The strobe > >cables have a foil shield with a drain wire. The drain wire is grounded to > >the wing structure at the tip.) > > > >If a problem is likely, are there any additional precautions I could take > >to avoid one? > > > > Every time someone reports a "noise problem cured > by repositioning wiring" it was a demonstration of > some OTHER root cause. > > When products are qualified to be used on airplanes, > they are qualified to both control emissions and > withstand certain stresses that are known to exist > in the aircraft environment. > > The wiring you've cited are not particularly > communicative with respect to noise . . . assuming > that the installation of said wires is in accordance > with manufacturer's instructions. > > In the heavy iron birds, we are seldom blessed with > enough room to run all the wires that are necessary > for operation much less comb them into potentially > antagonistic and/or victim systems. > > The short answer is run them neatly together and > you'll be fine. > > Bob . . . > > > ----------------------------------------) > ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) > ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) > ( appearance of being right . . . ) > ( ) > ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) > ---------------------------------------- > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 02:51:53 PM PST US From: Ernest Christley Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: PMA-6000 intercom 28V install Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > They have packaging issues. I'm aware of no bolt-in-and-wire- > it-up product suited to this task. DC to DC converters come > packaged as components for a larger assembly. Here's an > exemplar device: > check mpja.com part number 14335-PS They have a number of other DC-to-DC converters available, but if it was just one low power device, I would use a 4-legged bridge rectifier or eight, lined up on a circuit board. The negative output of one feeding the positive input of the next. No noise. Compact. Useful for several amps. -- http://www.ronpaultimeline.com ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 05:25:51 PM PST US From: "Ron Quillin" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dual redundant electrical system On Fri, May 16, 2008 at 8:51 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > > At 11:27 PM 5/15/2008 -0400, you wrote: > > The .pdf files are fine. I've posted them to my > server at: > > http://www.aeroelectric.com/_temp/ > > I'll invite folks on the List to go get them and > participate in this thread as the spirit moves them . . . > Incomplete or incorrect url Bob? Ron Q. ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 06:01:13 PM PST US From: "Ron Shannon" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dual redundant electrical system > > > > http://www.aeroelectric.com/_temp/ > > > > I'll invite folks on the List to go get them and > > participate in this thread as the spirit moves them . . . > > > > Incomplete or incorrect url Bob? > > Ron Q. > The link works from here. Note there is an underscore character preceding "temp". FWIW, as a former IT geek, I discouraged webmasters from using underscores in web URL's because when the whole link is automatically highlighted and the whole link becomes underscored (as it does in most email programs) the unaware reader may not realize there's a separate underscore character. If spacing is necessary, hyphens are better. Of course, spaces never work in a URL. Ron ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 06:23:49 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dual redundant electrical system From: Ron Quillin About 10-15 minutes after the post, it also worked for me... Sigh. Also paid to be an IT geek at work. Ron Q. At 17:57 5/16/2008, you wrote: > > http://www.aeroelectric.com/_temp/ > > > > I'll invite folks on the List to go get them and > > participate in this thread as the spirit moves them . . . > > > >Incomplete or incorrect url Bob? > >Ron Q. > > >The link works from here. Note there is an underscore character >preceding "temp". > >FWIW, as a former IT geek, I discouraged webmasters from using >underscores in web URL's because when the whole link is >automatically highlighted and the whole link becomes underscored (as >it does in most email programs) the unaware reader may not realize >there's a separate underscore character. If spacing is necessary, >hyphens are better. Of course, spaces never work in a URL. > >Ron > > >http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List >http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 06:27:33 PM PST US From: "Robert McCallum" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dual redundant electrical system The link worked fine for me and there were two .pdf's there which both opened fine as well. One labelled "lights" the other "master". Just clicked on the e-mail link and away we went. Bob McC DO NOT ARCHIVE ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Quillin" Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 8:21 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dual redundant electrical system > Incomplete or incorrect url Bob? > > Ron Q. ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 07:04:31 PM PST US From: "Ron Shannon" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dynon , sl40, pm1000II, and GTX327 Pinout numbers On Fri, May 16, 2008 at 10:54 AM, gcarnforth wrote: > greg@chesterpools.com> > ... > Does anyone have the pin numbers for connecting these units? > > Flightdek to GTX327 > SL40 to PM1000II > SL-40 pin outs are: 1 DC power 2 (reserved) 3 RS232 serial data out (TxD) 4 TxKey,pulled low to transmit 5 (no contact -- do not connect) 6 speaker 7 mic ground 8 Mic 1 input 9 DC power ground 10 RS232 serial data in (RxD) 11 RS232 signal ground 12 Intercom select, pulled low to turn on intercom 13 Audio ground (speaker & headphone) 14 Headphone terminal out 15 Mic 1 input ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 07:30:34 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dual redundant electrical system At 05:21 PM 5/16/2008 -0700, you wrote: > >On Fri, May 16, 2008 at 8:51 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III > wrote: > > > > > > At 11:27 PM 5/15/2008 -0400, you wrote: > > > > > The .pdf files are fine. I've posted them to my > > server at: > > > > http://www.aeroelectric.com/_temp/ > > > > I'll invite folks on the List to go get them and > > participate in this thread as the spirit moves them . . . > > > >Incomplete or incorrect url Bob? Don't think so. This is a link to a directory where you will find two separate .pdf files each of which needs to be downloaded independently. This is not unlike the general files archives on my server like: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/ and http://www.aeroelectric.com/Reference_Docs/ where you don't get a particular document but a directory structure for many documents. You should be able to double-click the link cited and it should take you to the appropriate directory(ies). Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 07:31:29 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Avoiding strobe noise? At 05:40 PM 5/16/2008 -0700, you wrote: > > >So Bob: > >as long as all wires are installed and grounded per maunfacture's spec, >running (stringing) wires like Strobe Power Supply, Nav/Com, Transponder, >Flaps, Pitot Heat together along the bottom of a fuselage and thru bulkheads >together are OK ? yup . . / Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 07:31:43 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: 6 AWG vs Copper Bar At 04:37 PM 5/16/2008 -0700, you wrote: > > >Bob: > >Insteard of using 6 AWG from starter contctor to Current Limiter, I want to >use .063 copper bar...is that adequate or should I use .125. > >thanks .063 x .75" copper is fine. 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