Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:43 AM - Re: Dual redundant electrical system - OT (Mickey Coggins)
2. 06:15 AM - Peer review - Z-19RB with RWS controller (Sam Hoskins)
3. 06:35 AM - Try it again. Z-19RB Peer Review (Sam Hoskins)
4. 07:02 AM - Again? - Peer review - Z-19RB with RWS controller (Sam)
5. 07:49 AM - Re: Avoiding strobe noise? (Henry Trzeciakowski)
6. 07:51 AM - Re: Re: 6 AWG vs Copper Bar (Henry Trzeciakowski)
7. 08:57 AM - Re: Getting Off Topic, Was: Schematic Review (Ron Brown)
8. 09:04 AM - Re: Schematic Review (user9253)
9. 09:48 AM - battery tenders (bob noffs)
10. 10:47 AM - Help for English translation (Gilles Thesee)
11. 11:00 AM - Re: battery tenders (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 11:20 AM - Re: Re: 6 AWG vs Copper Bar (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 11:35 AM - Re: Re: 6 AWG vs Copper Bar (Henry Trzeciakowski)
14. 11:35 AM - Re: S704-1 Relay Question (Henry Trzeciakowski)
15. 12:55 PM - Re: Help for English translation (Mickey Coggins)
16. 01:09 PM - Re: battery tenders (Ron Quillin)
17. 03:12 PM - battery tenders (bob noffs)
18. 04:37 PM - Re: Use of 700-2-10 switch for Voltage Sense - how to wire? (mikef)
19. 07:58 PM - Re: Re: Use of 700-2-10 switch for Voltage Sense - how to wire? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 07:58 PM - Re: battery tenders (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 08:29 PM - Re: battery tenders (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
22. 08:36 PM - Re: Re: S704-1 Relay Question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Dual redundant electrical system - OT |
> FWIW, as a former IT geek, I discouraged webmasters from using
> underscores in web URL's because when the whole link is automatically
> highlighted and the whole link becomes underscored (as it does in most
> email programs) the unaware reader may not realize there's a separate
> underscore character. If spacing is necessary, hyphens are better. Of
> course, spaces never work in a URL.
While spaces are technically not allowed in URLs, from a user
perspective they do actually work. They eventually get encoded as a %20
by most web servers and browsers.
For example this URL http://www.rv8.ch/files/File With Spaces.html
<http://www.rv8.ch/files/File%20With%20Spaces.html> will get encoded
like this on both ends: http://www.rv8.ch/files/File%20With%20Spaces.html
This is a trick used by many "phishing" scams - they use lots spaces to
hide or obscure the real URL.
http://www.rv8.ch/files/j
www.yourbank.com.login.html
<http://www.rv8.ch/j%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20www.yourbank.com.login.html>
Be careful out there!
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 2
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Subject: | Peer review - Z-19RB with RWS controller |
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Subject: | Try it again. Z-19RB Peer Review |
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Subject: | Again? - Peer review - Z-19RB with RWS controller |
Bob & all, (third try at posting this request)
I'm looking for a review of my electrical system, based on Z-19RB. This is a retrofit
in my little 22 year-old composite Quickie Q-200. I do a lot of day VFR
cross country with this little buggy and do some cross country racing. Since
I am converting to "all electric" I would be interested in your thoughts about
my proposed system which is attached as a PDF file.
Besides the Dynon FlightDEK 180 the biggest change is the conversion to electronic fuel injection. I am using the EC-3 controller from Real World Solutions (RWS). You can see more about the controller here: http://www.rotaryaviation.com/eficont.html
The EC-3 controller is divided into two sides, A & B. The fuel injector control
and ignition outputs exit the box from a single connector via a shared relay.
The controller can receive either a primary or secondary 12V power source.
A few bullet points:
* I am using a primary fuel pump and a backup fuel pump. I also have two transfer
pumps.
* I have not yet sized the batteries.
* I have an existing AEC9005-201 low voltage monitor, without the relay control.
* Output of the ECU will be shown on another page, perhaps later in the week.
* I have not yet properly sized the fuses or the wires in this drawing.
My concerns:
* By the time I add strobes and position lights, I will have around 14 or 15
switches, which seems like a lot for a 650 lb. (empty weight) airplane. Is
there a way I could minimize the switch count?
* There seem to be a lot of components connected to the unswitched battery
busses. I wonder if I should use CBs instead of fuses?
* Since I rarely fly at night, is the main buss, as depicted, really needed?
Maybe I could combine the main and E busses.
Anything else? Your input is very welcome.
Thanks!
Sam Hoskins
Murphysboro, IL
http://samhoskins.blogspot.com/
--------
Sam Hoskins
www.samhoskins.blogspot.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183649#183649
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/n202sh_peer_review_01_178.pdf
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Avoiding strobe noise? |
Thanks.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 7:26 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Avoiding strobe noise?
<nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>
> At 05:40 PM 5/16/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>
> ><hammer408@comcast.net>
> >
> >So Bob:
> >
> >as long as all wires are installed and grounded per maunfacture's spec,
> >running (stringing) wires like Strobe Power Supply, Nav/Com, Transponder,
> >Flaps, Pitot Heat together along the bottom of a fuselage and thru
bulkheads
> >together are OK ?
>
> yup . . /
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: 6 AWG vs Copper Bar |
Bob:
I have .063 X .50"; can I double up and make 2 bars thus giving me .125 x
.50"
Thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 7:25 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: 6 AWG vs Copper Bar
<nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>
> At 04:37 PM 5/16/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>
> ><hammer408@comcast.net>
> >
> >Bob:
> >
> >Insteard of using 6 AWG from starter contctor to Current Limiter, I want
to
> >use .063 copper bar...is that adequate or should I use .125.
> >
> >thanks
>
> .063 x .75" copper is fine.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Getting Off Topic, Was: Schematic Review |
Scott,
An excellent set of rules for Light IFR for the recreational
(non-commercial) flyer!
I have been flying my Velocity for the past 5 years with very much the
same rules. It has allowed me to get out before the low level fog burns
off, out of Hilton Head and Florida before the marine layer burns off,
and into airports that have a broken or solid layer above them but a
1500 - 2000' ceiling.
I also flew single pilot IFR to Oshkosh in between layers at 8000' but
with plenty of good ceilings below the underlying layer.
It gives me tremendous flexibility that I didn't have when I was trying
to scud run and didn't have my instrument rating - downright
dangerous!!!!
Getting your instrument rating and using your "Light IFR Rules" is VERY
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED if you are going to be flying much cross country.
Ronnie Brown
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Schematic Review |
Suggestion 1. An avionics master switch is controversial because it becomes a single
point failure for all of your avionics. Modern avionics are not supposed
to be affected by voltage spikes. If concerned about expensive avionics, one
could shut off individual units, not as convenient as a master switch but safer.
If you must have an avionics master, consider using a double pole switch
wired in parallel. If one half of the switch fails, the other half will carry
the load.
Suggestion 2. Feed the Aux Battery Avionics Master Switch directly from the battery
without going through the Aux Battery Master Switch. Having two switches
in series doubles the chances of switch failure. Re-label the Aux Bat Avionics
Master switch as "Avionics Aux Feed".
Suggestion 3. Remove the ground wire from terminal 4 of the Aux Battery Master
Switch. Instead, connect terminal 4 to terminal 2 of the Main Master switch.
This essentially connects the two battery contactors in parallel for normal operation.
Re-label the Aux Bat Master switch to Aux Bat Isolate. This switch
would be normally closed, even after engine shut down. You would only open this
switch in case of an emergency. This wiring change will simplify your system.
There will be only one master switch to deal with. There will be more cranking
amps available. And the aux battery will be kept fully charged.
Suggestion 4. Mount and wire the "Avionics Aux Feed" and "Aux Bat Isolate" switches
so that they are normally in the down position. They would be toggled up
in case of an emergency.
Suggestion 5. How about using a variation of Bob Nuckolls' Z-19? I like the feature
of the low voltage module automatically isolating the aux battery without
pilot intervention.
These are only suggestions to help and are not meant to criticize.
Joe Gores
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183666#183666
Message 9
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since battery tenders have become popular the last few years i acquired
1/2 dz from harbor frt. they were 3-5 $ each and seem to work well.
snowmobile, atv, skidsteer, motorcycle, etc have never had a low battery
since. output varied, so much that i would take a voltmeter along to
test units before they went in my shopping cart. one unit put out too
much voltage and i lowered it with a diode. it keeps the battery at
13.7-13.8 volts now. is the diode inhibiting any function of the tender
to regulate current supplied to the battery? does a $5 unit even have
the brains to regulate anything?
thanks for any input
bob noffs
Message 10
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Subject: | Help for English translation |
Hi all,
One of my buddies is trying to convince French civil aviation
authorities (DGAC) to let him install an Odyssey EFIS in his kitplane
project.
He is asking for help from naturally English speakers to correct his
English translation of the DGAC relevant document.
Would any of you gentlemen and ladies care to help correcting the
following document for understandable English ?
http://contrails.free.fr/translate.php
Any inputs appreciated,
Thanks in advance,
Best regards,
--
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: battery tenders |
At 11:45 AM 5/18/2008 -0500, you wrote:
>since battery tenders have become popular the last few years i acquired
>1/2 dz from harbor frt. they were 3-5 $ each and seem to work well.
>snowmobile, atv, skidsteer, motorcycle, etc have never had a low battery
>since. output varied, so much that i would take a voltmeter along to test
>units before they went in my shopping cart. one unit put out too much
>voltage and i lowered it with a diode. it keeps the battery at 13.7-13.8
>volts now. is the diode inhibiting any function of the tender to regulate
>current supplied to the battery? does a $5 unit even have the brains to
>regulate anything?
> thanks for any input
Can't tell without tearing it open and also
running tests to deduce performance. What we
want to see from a true "tender" is a recharge
curve with a behavior like this:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/Battery_Tender_Recharge.pdf
Note the top-off dwell during the interval
before it drops to the "tending" mode.
There are some semi-smart chargers like:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/Battery_Minder_Recharge.pdf
That don't have a top-off dwell. Further, the voltage
at which full-charge is expected is somewhat shy
of optimal. I've purchased only one Battery Minder
and pitched it after seeing the tests. I have a
three or four Battery Tenders in the stable of
battery maintenance tools along with a number of
Schumacher products.
About the best bargain I've seen so far is the
Schumacher WM-1562A charger often offered by
Wallmart and others. It has a very intelligent
recharge profile . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/schumacher_3.jpg
. . . and sells for under $20.
Schumacher builds some larger, equally sophisticated
devices at attractive prices . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/schumacher_5.jpg
I failed to write down the charger I was evaluating
here but I think it was a middle-sized device and probably
sold for under $60.
Unless you have the equipment to grab plots like these
it's sort a pig-in-a-poke deal. At first blush, I'd
guess that the $5 H.F. devices behave more like the
Battery Minder and while much better than a trickle
charger (no smarts at all) it fall far short of the
best we know how to do for just a few dollars more.
Just went to the H.F. website and got pictures and
stock numbers on their current offerings. I posted
them at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/HF_Chargers/
I'm guessing that the charger you're asking about
is one of these two:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/HF_Chargers/42292.gif
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/HF_Chargers/Junk_1.jpg
There's another interesting one . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/HF_Chargers/93258.gif
designed to mount permanently in the vehicle where
a battery is to be maintained.
I've already looked at the Junker . . . next
time I'm in the store, I'll pick up copies of the
other small chargers and test them. I note further
that H.F. is offering Schumacher products as well
as their own. Everything we've been talking about sells
for under $70 with some devices in the $18 range.
Short answer is that anything with Schumacher's
name on it is a pretty good bet. The other devices
may offer good value and performance too . . . but
you don't know without testing. Which H.F. stock
number device are you wondering about?
Bob . . .
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: 6 AWG vs Copper Bar |
At 10:56 AM 5/18/2008 -0700, you wrote:
><hammer408@comcast.net>
>
>Bob:
>
>I have .063 X .50"; can I double up and make 2 bars thus giving me .125 x
>.50"
Sure . . . but the .50" width doesn't leave you much edge
margin at the clearance holes for 5/16" studs and there's some
concern for spreading the high currents across the hole
through 3/32" connections at the edges. But lots of folk
have used this width of material and I've not heard of
any problems. In fact, a single layer offers a cross-
section of .063 x .50 = .031 square inches. 4AWG
wire is two, 3AWG-doubling steps larger than 10AWG.
10 AWG is .1" diameter or 3.14 x .05^2 = 0.0078
square inches. Taken times 4 yields .031 square
inches for 4AWG wire. The same as your proposed
straps which will cool better because of larger
surface area and heat-sinks at the studs.
So electrically and thermally, the proposed strips
are fine. How about this? Go to your local well-stocked
hardware store and get some 5/16" brass washers.
Solder to one side of your 0.5" copper strap at the
5/16" hole locations. I think you said you were
working with a shunt at the other end which is a
1/4" stud. No "reinforcement" necessary.
"Doubling up" the strap makes it more difficult
to get the two pieces to lay together. A soldered
on doubler at the 5/16" holes is easier and will
look better when you're finished.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: 6 AWG vs Copper Bar |
Thanks Bob: I like the idea of soldering brass washers.....or better yet, I
may just order .063 x .75" wide copper bar and KISS.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: 6 AWG vs Copper Bar
<nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>
> At 10:56 AM 5/18/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>
> ><hammer408@comcast.net>
> >
> >Bob:
> >
> >I have .063 X .50"; can I double up and make 2 bars thus giving me .125
x
> >.50"
>
> Sure . . . but the .50" width doesn't leave you much edge
> margin at the clearance holes for 5/16" studs and there's some
> concern for spreading the high currents across the hole
> through 3/32" connections at the edges. But lots of folk
> have used this width of material and I've not heard of
> any problems. In fact, a single layer offers a cross-
> section of .063 x .50 = .031 square inches. 4AWG
> wire is two, 3AWG-doubling steps larger than 10AWG.
> 10 AWG is .1" diameter or 3.14 x .05^2 = 0.0078
> square inches. Taken times 4 yields .031 square
> inches for 4AWG wire. The same as your proposed
> straps which will cool better because of larger
> surface area and heat-sinks at the studs.
>
> So electrically and thermally, the proposed strips
> are fine. How about this? Go to your local well-stocked
> hardware store and get some 5/16" brass washers.
> Solder to one side of your 0.5" copper strap at the
> 5/16" hole locations. I think you said you were
> working with a shunt at the other end which is a
> 1/4" stud. No "reinforcement" necessary.
>
> "Doubling up" the strap makes it more difficult
> to get the two pieces to lay together. A soldered
> on doubler at the 5/16" holes is easier and will
> look better when you're finished.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------)
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
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Subject: | Re: S704-1 Relay Question |
Bob:
I'm going to install a "Heavy E-bus and use your architecture: Bat-bus
(14AWG) to 704-1 relay with S700-1-3(22AWG) switch coming off relay and 14
awg from relay to e-bus. I'm a little confused on how the Relay is wired.
I've printed the wiring picture of the Relay off the aeroelectric website
and it didn't help.
The diode, via fastabs is wired or jumps the - to + terminal and there are
also 2 wires crimped to the same fasttabs. I'm assuming the black goes to
ground, but where does the one wired to the + terminal go to ??
Also where does the "COM" wire and N.O. wire go?
OR...keeping the question simple ---how do you wire the Relay utilizing
Heavy E-Bus architecture?
Thanks
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Help for English translation |
Hi Gilles,
There is a MGL representative in France - perhaps he has already
contacted the DGAC.
http://www.stratomaster.eu/
If the document you need translated is going to the boys in South
Africa, I'd say it is quite understandable. To make sure the
translation is accurate, it would help to have a link to the French version.
Regards,
Mickey
Gilles Thesee wrote:
> <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
> Hi all,
>
> One of my buddies is trying to convince French civil aviation
> authorities (DGAC) to let him install an Odyssey EFIS in his kitplane
> project.
> He is asking for help from naturally English speakers to correct his
> English translation of the DGAC relevant document.
>
> Would any of you gentlemen and ladies care to help correcting the
> following document for understandable English ?
>
> http://contrails.free.fr/translate.php
>
> Any inputs appreciated,
> Thanks in advance,
> Best regards,
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: battery tenders |
>From some research I have done in the past couple of years, I've noted
Concorde has gotten touchy regarding maximum charge voltage in
maintenance or float mode. They assert some units have been applying
an excessive, for the ambient temperature, voltage and this has caused
a decrease in service life of their AGM type batteries.
BatteryMINDer, and perhaps others, have responded by including sensors
to adjust float voltage for ambient temperature (it needs to increase
with decreasing temperature) even to the point of recalling some of
their non compensating units. I suppose one could argue this is just
a marketing ploy to sell more chargers, but they are, or at least
were, offering replacement units at a 50% discount. Battery details
can be found at
http://www.concordebattery.com/otherpdf/ownermanual.pdf
on page 16.
Ron Q.
On Sun, May 18, 2008 at 10:55 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
<nuckolls.bob@cox.net> wrote:
> <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>
> At 11:45 AM 5/18/2008 -0500, you wrote:
>
>> since battery tenders have become popular the last few years i acquired
>> 1/2 dz from harbor frt. they were 3-5 $ each and seem to work well.
>> does a $5 unit even have the brains to
>> regulate anything?
>> thanks for any input
>
> Can't tell without tearing it open and also
> running tests to deduce performance. What we
> want to see from a true "tender" is a recharge
> curve with a behavior like this:
>
> That don't have a top-off dwell. Further, the voltage
> at which full-charge is expected is somewhat shy
> of optimal. I've purchased only one Battery Minder
> and pitched it after seeing the tests. I have a
> three or four Battery Tenders in the stable of
> battery maintenance tools along with a number of
> Schumacher products.
>
> About the best bargain I've seen so far is the
> Schumacher WM-1562A charger often offered by
> Wallmart and others. It has a very intelligent
> recharge profile . . .
>
> Short answer is that anything with Schumacher's
> name on it is a pretty good bet. The other devices
> may offer good value and performance too . . . but
> you don't know without testing. Which H.F. stock
> number device are you wondering about?
>
> Bob . . .
Message 17
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hi bob,
the h.f. unit i am talking about is the #42292. appreciate your input.
bob noffs
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Use of 700-2-10 switch for Voltage Sense - how |
to wire?
I obtained both the Digikey and B&C 2-7 switches.
When wired as indicated on the diagram the Digikey version worked as expected.
However the B&C 2-7 did not. The middle position does not show the expected
voltage (or any voltage). When I substitute a 2-10 switch it, like the Digikey
version, works as expected.
I will play further with the B&C 2-7 but it is either not designed for wiring that
way or just a bad switch.
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183735#183735
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Use of 700-2-10 switch for Voltage Sense |
- how to wire?
At 04:33 PM 5/18/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>
>I obtained both the Digikey and B&C 2-7 switches.
>
>When wired as indicated on the diagram the Digikey version worked as
>expected. However the B&C 2-7 did not. The middle position does not show
>the expected voltage (or any voltage). When I substitute a 2-10 switch it,
>like the Digikey version, works as expected.
>
>I will play further with the B&C 2-7 but it is either not designed for
>wiring that way or just a bad switch.
You lost me. Did our conversation start out talking
about the 2-7 functionality?
A 2-7 is double pole, three position, (ON)-OFF-(ON) device
where the parens around the 'ON' denotes a spring-loaded
momentary position.
The 2-10 is a double pole, three position, PROGRESSIVE
TRANSFER, ON-ON-ON device that is stable at all three
positions. No spring loading.
A few of the ways these two switches can be used
are illustrated in:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/2-Pole_Switch_Options.pdf
and in Figure 11-14 in the 'Connection.
The 2-7 cannot substitute for a 2-10. A 2-70 (progressive
transfer version of a 2-7) can do the same switching
job as a 2-10 where you WANT the two extreme positions to
be momentary.
I don't think B&C stocks the 2-70 so if you got a 2-7
from them, I would predict mystifying results. The Digikey
number I gave you was for a 2-70 equivalent in a miniature
switch by C&K . . . not a 2-10.
If you've already drilled a hole for a standard size
2-70, there's a version of the miniature 2-70
that sports a standard size toggle and mounting hole.
See:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Switches/7215TZQE.jpg
and
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=CKN1495-ND
Bob . . .
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: battery tenders |
At 05:08 PM 5/18/2008 -0500, you wrote:
>hi bob,
> the h.f. unit i am talking about is the #42292. appreciate your input.
>
> bob noffs
Okay. I'll pick one up and test it.
Bob . . .
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
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Message 21
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Subject: | Re: battery tenders |
At 01:06 PM 5/18/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>
> >From some research I have done in the past couple of years, I've noted
>Concorde has gotten touchy regarding maximum charge voltage in
>maintenance or float mode. They assert some units have been applying
>an excessive, for the ambient temperature, voltage and this has caused
>a decrease in service life of their AGM type batteries.
Has this shown up in print anywhere? I mean something that
illustrates Concord's increasing tension?
>BatteryMINDer, and perhaps others, have responded by including sensors
>to adjust float voltage for ambient temperature (it needs to increase
>with decreasing temperature) even to the point of recalling some of
>their non compensating units. I suppose one could argue this is just
>a marketing ploy to sell more chargers, but they are, or at least
>were, offering replacement units at a 50% discount. Battery details
>can be found at
>http://www.concordebattery.com/otherpdf/ownermanual.pdf
>on page 16.
This document hasn't been changed with respect to charging
recommendations for many moons. You can go to . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data.html
and get the Concorde battery poop I've posted on
website.
The maintenance data speaks to fast-charging situations
and the techniques are essentially the same for both
flooded and AGM batteries . . . including the recommended
BUS voltages versus for in-flight recharging.
None of this data is particularly relevant to a
smart battery maintainer which spends only a limited
amount of time in the top-off mode before dropping
to a sustain level that is not even mentioned in
the Concorde data.
Any words from the manufacturers of battery maintainers
as to the "tailoring" of their product to the "special
needs" of an AGM battery is mostly marketing hype. However
the device tops a battery off is not terribly relevant
to battery life . . . the event lasts but a few hours at
modest current levels compared to the comparatively
much larger abuse the battery receives while being
replenished by a 60A alternator!
As long as the maintainer drops to a true maintenance
level (hundreds of millivolts above the battery's
open circuit voltage) then the battery is not at-risk
for abuse from the maintainer. That temperature
compensating stuff doesn't hurt but don't spend a lot
of money on it cause it doesn't make that much difference
in battery service life.
Bob . . .
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: S704-1 Relay Question |
At 02:34 PM 5/18/2008 -0700, you wrote:
><hammer408@comcast.net>
>
>Bob:
>
>I'm going to install a "Heavy E-bus and use your architecture: Bat-bus
>(14AWG) to 704-1 relay with S700-1-3(22AWG) switch coming off relay and 14
>awg from relay to e-bus. I'm a little confused on how the Relay is wired.
>I've printed the wiring picture of the Relay off the aeroelectric website
>and it didn't help.
>
>The diode, via fastabs is wired or jumps the - to + terminal and there are
>also 2 wires crimped to the same fasttabs. I'm assuming the black goes to
>ground, but where does the one wired to the + terminal go to ??
>
>Also where does the "COM" wire and N.O. wire go?
>
>OR...keeping the question simple ---how do you wire the Relay utilizing
>Heavy E-Bus architecture?
>
>Thanks
As shown in
http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z32K.pdf
The picture at:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Relays/s704inst.jpg
shows how to get the diode leads into the same terminals
with the wires that go to ends of the relay coil . . . but
according to Z32K you'll need to drop two wires into the
COM terminal too.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
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