Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:45 AM - Re: Re: E-Bus Diode & Fuseable LInk Question ()
2. 06:59 AM - Re: AEC9011 OV/LV-Warning ()
3. 08:31 AM - Corrosion Protection Of Electrical Connections (Dave VanLanen)
4. 08:53 AM - Wire Wrap Question (Dave VanLanen)
5. 09:26 AM - Re: Corrosion Protection Of Electrical Connections ()
6. 09:41 AM - Re: Wire Wrap Question (John Cox)
7. 11:26 AM - Re: Corrosion Protection Of Electrical Connections (Ken)
8. 11:34 AM - Re: Wire Wrap Question (Dale Ensing)
9. 11:38 AM - Re: Wire Wrap Question (Greg Young)
10. 12:08 PM - Re: Wire Wrap Question (Ron Quillin)
11. 03:52 PM - Re: EIS resistor (Sam Marlow)
12. 04:04 PM - fuseholder location (revenson@comcast.net (Roger Evenson))
13. 04:08 PM - ANL fuse size (revenson@comcast.net (Roger Evenson))
14. 05:09 PM - Re: fuseholder location (Terry McMillan)
15. 05:09 PM - Bob's LLC (CardinalNSB@aol.com)
16. 09:06 PM - Re: Bob's LLC (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 09:07 PM - Re: ANL fuse size (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 09:10 PM - Off line for a few days. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 10:11 PM - Bridge Diodes use (Jeffrey W. Skiba)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: E-Bus Diode & Fuseable LInk Question |
Henry,
I too am installing the e-bus diode. B & C directions show a
jumper between two of the fast tabs on the diode while Bob indicates one
can just cut off two of the tabs and use the +/- connectors (See page
1-9). This comparison gleans one bit of information from the diode and
that is the fast tab bi-polar to the others is positive. This definitely
connects to the e-bus. Ok, that's easy - Bob shows the tab opposite to
the + (presumed the neg side of the internal diode) is negative and
presumably connects to the master bus. B & C jumps the two opposing
terminals and wires them directly to the master bus.
Someone should decide how these things really wire up. Perhaps they work
either way?
Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Henry
Trzeciakowski
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 7:53 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: E-Bus Diode & Fuseable LInk Question
--> <hammer408@comcast.net>
Bob:
I purchased from B & C their E-Bus diode with 15 watt heatsink and
installed between Main Bus & E-Bus per your Z diagram. What I'm
confused about is that their wiring diagram has 1 wire originating from
a fast-tab on the diode to the E-Bus - NO PROBLEM SO FAR: then 2 wires
from 2 seperate fast-tabs joining together then proceeding to a Circuit
Breaker then to the Main Bus....Sooooo I'm a little confused about the
Circuit Breaker and why there are 2 attach points on the diode in the
first place.!!! None of your Z diagrams show a CB between the Main & E
Bus, and why 2 attach points on the diode joining forces?
Second questions:: Im installing a Heavy E-Bus architecture, per Z-32.
Currently my E-Bus load is around 12 amps...architecture is: 18g F-link
at E-Bus---14 awg---S704-1 relay---14 awg---10amp fuse at Battery Bus.
According to B & C, fuseable links are for low power, 10 amps or
less.....so should I eliminate the fuseable link and directly wire to
#10 stud on E-Bus OR wire to a 10 or 15 amp fuse on the E-bus - and
increase the Battery Bus from 10 amp to 15 amp?
Thanks
Henry
Message 2
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| Subject: | AEC9011 OV/LV-Warning |
Thanks Bob,
Best of luck with your new venture(s). We'll look forward to your new
products and don't worry we'll all keep an eye on your lineage.
Enjoy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 6:08 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: AEC9011 OV/LV-Warning
--> <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
At 10:16 AM 5/27/2008 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>Let me know if you need another mule to test the below. I am very
>interested (no, make that a must have) in dual battery monitoring. A
>quick google turns up a few options.
I do have one system installed on a YAK . . . I presume
the outcome was satisfactory. No negative feedback and
numerous inquiries from other interested customers. I think
we're ready to rock-n-roll pending allocation of $time$
toward that task.
>High tech job.
>http://store.solar-electric.com/xalidubamo.html
>
>Gizmo.
>http://www.piranhaoffroad.com.au/products/dualbattery/dualbatteryinfo_a
>c
>cessories.htm
Hmmm . . . pricey little buggers . . .
The 9011 is designed first to be OV protection for generators
but adaptable to alternators. Second, LV warning for the
main bus and third, LV warning for an aux battery. All three
functions in one box for about $50. One may pick any combination
of the three functions to operate independently of each other.
I just got home from Medicine Lodge, KS. Had a meeting with
my family's banker and CPA about setting up an LLC under which
I plan to operate the AeroElectric Connection publications,
a line of products for OBAM aircraft (business name to be
determined), my son's locksmith activities along with his
HVAC services, my consulting services, and a sort of
"how can we help you" handy-man service backed up with
a great wood working shop. The kids are going down tonight
to tour some available house with a real estate agent.
We're 99% sure that the whole family will be moved to
ML before the end of the year, 95% sure before the end
of the summer.
Once I have a mechanism in place to hire help and take
care of government's penchant for ham-fisted-filching
of citizen's property, I'll get the 9011 and a number
of new products into production with a goal of turning
all but consulting business over to the kids.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 3
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| Subject: | Corrosion Protection Of Electrical Connections |
I was wondering if there was any sort of recommended corrosion protection
application for electrical connections, especially where wires are spliced
with solder or d-sub pin connectors and then covered with heat shrink
tubing.
I found the attached e-mail in the archive, but it refers only to limited
use of DC-4 silicone grease for certain situations such as spark plug
terminals. Is there any other sort of material that folks are applying to
connections as added protection before "covering them up", or is it best
just to leave them "dry" and simply use dual-wall heat shrink where there is
a concern about corrosion?
Thanks,
Dave Van Lanen
Madison, WI
------------------------
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Di-Electric Grease; where used
<http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=52035146?KEYS=co
rrosion_protection?LISTNAME=AeroElectric?HITNUMBER=3?SERIAL=0804489583?SHOWB
UTTONS=NO>
>
>My other toy is a motorcycle, which has electronic everything. Some
>riders strongly advocate to apply dielectric grease the connectors for
>corrosion protection. But a dielectric is a non-conductor; seem
>counter-productive. What am I missing here?
>Wayne
Dow-Corning DC-4 and similar silicone greases are
excellent prophylactic treatments for exclusion of
moisture and other contaminants into connectors.
Waaaayyyy back when, we commonly filled the mating
spaces of coax connectors up on towers with DC-4 before
putting the connector together. Use sparingly. You don't
want it to ooze out and get the exterior all messy. The
stuff is VERY hard to get off and in the case of coax
connections, made it difficult to wrap with tape for
exterior water-barrier.
A coating the top insulator and terminal of a spark
plug before installing the spark plug wire would be
an assist for keeping moisture out of a potentially
vulnerable joint in the system. Same thing would be
good for coil end of wire.
Silicone greases migrate with time. Put a pea-sized
dab on a flat surface and come back a few months later.
You'll find a large silicone-grease wetted area around the
dab that continues to grow with time.
It's a neat stuff but I would use it reservedly with
respect to amount and location and only in areas where
a connection is likely to be exposed to extra-ordinarily
corrosive influences.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Wire Wrap Question |
To anyone using the nylon lacing tape for wire bundle tying, (see attached
e-mail from archive) - before I order some, is there any particular benefit
to using black over the natural colored tape?
Thanks,
Dave Van Lanen
Madison, WI
----------------
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Wire wrap
<http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=45762309?KEYS=st
ring_?LISTNAME=AeroElectric?HITNUMBER=184?SERIAL=08304621247?SHOWBUTTONS=NO>
>
>After reading in Light Plane Maintenance about the bad aspects of plastic
>ty-wraps, I am re-doing my wire stays off the engine mount with Adel
>clamps and as suggested in the article, with the old fashion, but tedious
>wire bundling wrap. It stated the Digikey has this stuff, but I was unable
>to locate it in my catalog.
>Does anyone have a source for this stuff?
>Wayne
String ties don't have to be any more hassle than ty-wraps.
See http://aeroelectric.com/articles/cable_lace/cable_lace.html
for slick technique on getting a two-handed string-tie to
draw down as tight as a plastic ty-wrap.
You're looking for waxed polyester lacing tape. See Aircraft
Spruce catalog for listing below.
BREYDEN NYLON LACING TAPES
Flat braided tape manufactured from 100% high tenacity, continuous
filament nylon yarn. This tape is impregnated with a specially formulated
microcrystalline, fungicidal wax. Conforms to the requirements
of A-A-52080-B-3. Recommended for continuous lacing. 500 yd.
rolls. Width: .077" (min.) / .094" (max.); Thickness: .011" (min.) / .017"
(max.); Tensile Strength: 50 Lb. (min.); Wax Content: 15-32%;
Elongation: 40% (max.)
Natural ............P/N 11-12170 ..........$14.85
Black ..............P/N 11-12160 ..........$17.30
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Corrosion Protection Of Electrical Connections |
Dave,
Bob has earlier indicated to me that hanging connections out in the
open is the best protection of all. Look over your head at those 500KV
lines. If they get wet, they'll dry without inhibitors which cover up
moisture etc. If you live in a pathetically damp place like I do, I have
another trick to help the moisture/corrosion problem. This works in the
cabin or in the engine compartment. Take a 25 watt bulb and hang it
inside the engine compartment or the cabin when not in use. This very
small amount of heat will thwart normal moisture buildup.
There is at least one product out there that connects to the airframe
and produces positive ions in and around the airplane which supposedly
are offensive to rust. I heard they also attract nice women, but who
knows.
Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
VanLanen
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 11:24 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Corrosion Protection Of Electrical
Connections
I was wondering if there was any sort of recommended corrosion
protection application for electrical connections, especially where
wires are spliced with solder or d-sub pin connectors and then covered
with heat shrink tubing.
I found the attached e-mail in the archive, but it refers only
to limited use of DC-4 silicone grease for certain situations such as
spark plug terminals. Is there any other sort of material that folks
are applying to connections as added protection before "covering them
up", or is it best just to leave them "dry" and simply use dual-wall
heat shrink where there is a concern about corrosion?
Thanks,
Dave Van Lanen
Madison, WI
------------------------
Date: May 14, 2006
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Di-Electric Grease; where used
<http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=52035146?KE
Y
S=corrosion_protection?LISTNAME=AeroElectric?HITNUMBER=3?SERIAL=0
8044895
83?SHOWBUTTONS=NO>
>
>My other toy is a motorcycle, which has electronic everything.
Some
>riders strongly advocate to apply dielectric grease the
connectors for
>corrosion protection. But a dielectric is a non-conductor; seem
>counter-productive. What am I missing here?
>Wayne
Dow-Corning DC-4 and similar silicone greases are
excellent prophylactic treatments for exclusion of
moisture and other contaminants into connectors.
Waaaayyyy back when, we commonly filled the mating
spaces of coax connectors up on towers with DC-4 before
putting the connector together. Use sparingly. You don't
want it to ooze out and get the exterior all messy. The
stuff is VERY hard to get off and in the case of coax
connections, made it difficult to wrap with tape for
exterior water-barrier.
A coating the top insulator and terminal of a spark
plug before installing the spark plug wire would be
an assist for keeping moisture out of a potentially
vulnerable joint in the system. Same thing would be
good for coil end of wire.
Silicone greases migrate with time. Put a pea-sized
dab on a flat surface and come back a few months later.
You'll find a large silicone-grease wetted area around the
dab that continues to grow with time.
It's a neat stuff but I would use it reservedly with
respect to amount and location and only in areas where
a connection is likely to be exposed to extra-ordinarily
corrosive influences.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Wire Wrap Question |
The white tends to yellow (discolor) with time. The black is easy to
find and cut when troubleshooting or rerouting damaged wires. Personal
Preference applies.
John Cox
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
VanLanen
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 8:50 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Wire Wrap Question
To anyone using the nylon lacing tape for wire bundle tying, (see
attached e-mail from archive) - before I order some, is there any
particular benefit to using black over the natural colored tape?
Thanks,
Dave Van Lanen
Madison, WI
----------------
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Wire wrap
<http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=45762309?KE
Y
S=string_?LISTNAME=AeroElectric?HITNUMBER=184?SERIAL=08304621247?
SHOWBUT
TONS=NO>
>
>After reading in Light Plane Maintenance about the bad aspects of
plastic
>ty-wraps, I am re-doing my wire stays off the engine mount with Adel
>clamps and as suggested in the article, with the old fashion, but
tedious
>wire bundling wrap. It stated the Digikey has this stuff, but I was
unable
>to locate it in my catalog.
>Does anyone have a source for this stuff?
>Wayne
String ties don't have to be any more hassle than ty-wraps.
See http://aeroelectric.com/articles/cable_lace/cable_lace.html
<http://aeroelectric.com/articles/cable_lace/cable_lace.html>
for slick technique on getting a two-handed string-tie to
draw down as tight as a plastic ty-wrap.
You're looking for waxed polyester lacing tape. See Aircraft
Spruce catalog for listing below.
BREYDEN NYLON LACING TAPES
Flat braided tape manufactured from 100% high tenacity, continuous
filament nylon yarn. This tape is impregnated with a specially
formulated
microcrystalline, fungicidal wax. Conforms to the requirements
of A-A-52080-B-3. Recommended for continuous lacing. 500 yd.
rolls. Width: .077" (min.) / .094" (max.); Thickness: .011" (min.) /
.017"
(max.); Tensile Strength: 50 Lb. (min.); Wax Content: 15-32%;
Elongation: 40% (max.)
Natural ............P/N 11-12170 ..........$14.85
Black ..............P/N 11-12160 ..........$17.30
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Corrosion Protection Of Electrical Connections |
Oh now you've stepped in it Glenn ;)
And I'm about to... Every decade or so the ion rust protection scam
reappears. Even new car dealers are in on it this time. If only cathodic
protection were so easy...
Ken
longg@pjm.com wrote:
> Dave,
> Bob has earlier indicated to me that hanging connections out in the
> open is the best protection of all. Look over your head at those 500KV
> lines. If they get wet, they'll dry without inhibitors which cover up
> moisture etc. If you live in a pathetically damp place like I do, I have
> another trick to help the moisture/corrosion problem. This works in the
> cabin or in the engine compartment. Take a 25 watt bulb and hang it
> inside the engine compartment or the cabin when not in use. This very
> small amount of heat will thwart normal moisture buildup.
>
> There is at least one product out there that connects to the airframe
> and produces positive ions in and around the airplane which supposedly
> are offensive to rust. I heard they also attract nice women, but who knows.
>
> Glenn
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Wire Wrap Question |
Wire Wrap QuestionIf the lacing tape is exposed to UV or heat, the
black will usually last longer as there is filler in the nylon to give
it more reistence. Same goes for the nylon cable ties.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cox
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 12:38 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Wire Wrap Question
The white tends to yellow (discolor) with time. The black is easy to
find and cut when troubleshooting or rerouting damaged wires. Personal
Preference applies.
John Cox
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
VanLanen
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 8:50 AM
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Wire Wrap Question
To anyone using the nylon lacing tape for wire bundle tying, (see
attached e-mail from archive) - before I order some, is there any
particular benefit to using black over the natural colored tape?
Thanks,
Dave Van Lanen
Madison, WI
----------------
Date: Nov 20, 2005
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Wire wrap
>
>After reading in Light Plane Maintenance about the bad aspects of
plastic
>ty-wraps, I am re-doing my wire stays off the engine mount with Adel
>clamps and as suggested in the article, with the old fashion, but
tedious
>wire bundling wrap. It stated the Digikey has this stuff, but I was
unable
>to locate it in my catalog.
>Does anyone have a source for this stuff?
>Wayne
String ties don't have to be any more hassle than ty-wraps.
See http://aeroelectric.com/articles/cable_lace/cable_lace.html
for slick technique on getting a two-handed string-tie to
draw down as tight as a plastic ty-wrap.
You're looking for waxed polyester lacing tape. See Aircraft
Spruce catalog for listing below.
BREYDEN NYLON LACING TAPES
Flat braided tape manufactured from 100% high tenacity, continuous
filament nylon yarn. This tape is impregnated with a specially
formulated
microcrystalline, fungicidal wax. Conforms to the requirements
of A-A-52080-B-3. Recommended for continuous lacing. 500 yd.
rolls. Width: .077" (min.) / .094" (max.); Thickness: .011" (min.) /
.017"
(max.); Tensile Strength: 50 Lb. (min.); Wax Content: 15-32%;
Elongation: 40% (max.)
Natural ............P/N 11-12170 ..........$14.85
Black ..............P/N 11-12160 ..........$17.30
Bob . . .
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-Listhttp://forums.matroni
cs.comhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 9
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| Subject: | Wire Wrap Question |
White gets dirty very easily, both during tying and the spool just kicking
around on the workbench. Unless you have an anally clean work area, get
black.
Regards,
Greg Young
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
VanLanen
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 10:50 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Wire Wrap Question
To anyone using the nylon lacing tape for wire bundle tying, (see attached
e-mail from archive) - before I order some, is there any particular benefit
to using black over the natural colored tape?
Thanks,
Dave Van Lanen
Madison, WI
Message 10
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| Subject: | Wire Wrap Question |
At 11:35 5/28/2008, you wrote:
>White gets dirty very easily, both during tying and the spool just
>kicking around on the workbench. Unless you have an anally clean
>work area, get black.
>
>Regards,
>Greg Young
Oooooh, I just might fit.
I keep my white in a ziplock bag...
Also keeps assorted dust, grit and gunk from sticking to the wax and
making it less sticky.
And I do wash my hands before using the white.
BTW, I think it's called lacing cord, not wire wrap, which could be
confused with a method of wiring.
Ron Q.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: EIS resistor |
The "P" lead ground shield pulled through the "P" connector, not the "P"
lead itself. This caused the erratic tach.
Mike wrote:
>
> Sam,
>
>
>
> Yes thatsthe mod I was talking about. Let me know what GRT says.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> mlas@cox.net
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Sam Marlow
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 20, 2008 9:09 AM
> *To:* aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: EIS resistor
>
>
>
> It's puzzling, because it worked fine for 6 months, then the mag died.
> When I reinstalled the repaired mag, the tach started wondering,
> mostly at higher RPMs.
> It's the 27k resistor, supplied by Grand Rapids. I sent a Demo log to
> G/R this morning, hope to here something soon.
> I did the mod on the circuit board, before first flight, if that's the
> one your referring to.
>
> Mike wrote:
>
> Sam,
>
>
>
> What is the problem you are having with your EIS 6000? If it is with
> the RPM indication, are you driving the RPM from the P-lead? If so
> what resistor value are you currently using? If you are using a
> resistor in the range required and it is not working you should call
> Grand Rapids. There is a mod that is required on some 6000s which
> calls for the removal of a resister internally. It is a simple
> process and they can walk you through it or you could send it back
> assuming this is the issue.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com>
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Sam Marlow
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 19, 2008 11:58 AM
> *To:* aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> <mailto:aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: EIS resistor
>
>
>
> I'm having trouble with my EIS 6000. Thinking about changing the 27k
> resistor, but I can't find one. My question is, can I put a 22k and a
> 5.5k in series instead?
> Thanks,
> Sam Marlow
>
> * *
> * *
> * - The AeroElectric-List Email Forum -*
> * --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List*
> * - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -*
> * --> http://forums.matronics.com*
> * - List Contribution Web Site -*
> * Thank you for your generous support!*
> * -Matt Dralle, List Admin.*
> * --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> * *
>
>
> 10/2/2007 11:10 AM
>
> 10/2/2007 11:10 AM
>
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Message 12
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| Subject: | fuseholder location |
Any reason to not put my fuse holders on the engine side of the firewall?
Is the heat too much?
Message 13
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I read in Aeroelectric Connection that ANL current limiters should be sized larger
than alternator output. Then I went to purchase one at B&C and read in their
catalog that they should be sized same as alternator output rating.
Can anyone tell me which is correct?
Roger, Tucson, AZ
Message 14
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| Subject: | fuseholder location |
I'm planning to do the same thing, mounting small 6-circuit marine fuse
panels for the FADEC circuits relatively low down where the at-rest heat at
least will be lower. Given that many modern cars have fuse/relay blocks
mounted in the engine compartment where it gets at least as hot as an
aircraft I expect them to be reliable but like you I would be interested to
know if anyone has knowledge of heat problems with quality components on the
engine side.
Terry McMillan
>From: revenson@comcast.net (Roger Evenson)
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: fuseholder location
>Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 23:01:38 +0000
>
>Evenson)
>
>Any reason to not put my fuse holders on the engine side of the firewall?
>
>Is the heat too much?
>
>
Message 15
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Finally something I might share back from 25 years as
business/bankruptcy/attorney.
This is not legal advice, just thoughts.
LLC is good first step, still some questions as to whether a corporation (C
or S) is the best for liability protection.
More importantly here, be careful of putting all your eggs in one basket.
In general, I recommend keeping separate businesses in separate legal
entities.
It would be a shame to have the OBAM business hit with a claim that
originated against the locksmith, for instance.
Or when the big national company wants to buy the hvac company, having to
separate out the other businesses. Some tax issues there also.
Mainly I worry about the cross liability issue. You don't want a single
point failure to ruin your entire economic plan.
Regards, and thanks again for this internet resource, Skip (Florida)
.
**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
Message 16
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At 08:06 PM 5/28/2008 -0400, you wrote:
>Finally something I might share back from 25 years as
>business/bankruptcy/attorney.
>
>This is not legal advice, just thoughts.
>
>LLC is good first step, still some questions as to whether a corporation
>(C or S) is the best for liability protection.
>
>More importantly here, be careful of putting all your eggs in one basket.
>
>In general, I recommend keeping separate businesses in separate legal
>entities.
>
>It would be a shame to have the OBAM business hit with a claim that
>originated against the locksmith, for instance.
>
>Or when the big national company wants to buy the hvac company, having to
>separate out the other businesses. Some tax issues there also.
>
>Mainly I worry about the cross liability issue. You don't want a single
>point failure to ruin your entire economic plan.
>
>Regards, and thanks again for this internet resource, Skip (Florida)
Thanks! Actually, the LLC is primarily a way to
get me, my kids and ultimately my wife on a payroll
for group health insurance. There will be few "eggs"
of net worth.
Practically all the value is embodied in skill-sets.
It's also a way for my consulting income to be
distributed the kids and taxed at their rates
instead of mine.
ML is a town of 2000 where one cannot make a living
by being a specialist . . . so it's exceedingly
unlikely that any of the specialty services would
become attractive to a buyout candidate. We'll
carry liability insurance . . . but only enough to
buy us representation and not enough to make us
a plum to pick.
I'm becoming rather poor in a few weeks. My income
is going to be less than what I was making when
my boss raised my wages by 50% after one of my
designs landed him a $multi-million$ fleet retrofit
of the Lears . . . that was 28 years ago.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: ANL fuse size |
At 11:05 PM 5/28/2008 +0000, you wrote:
>--=======AVGMAIL-483E280E0000======
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>
>I read in Aeroelectric Connection that ANL current limiters should be
>sized larger than alternator output. Then I went to purchase one at B&C
>and read in their catalog that they should be sized same as alternator
>output rating.
>
>Can anyone tell me which is correct?
The data sheets are the better guide. See:
http://aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Fuses_and_Current_Limiters/Bussman/ANL_Specs.pdf
Not that a 60A alternator on steroids cannot open
an ANL35.
These are HARD fault protection stroked by a faulted
battery (1000 amps!?).
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 18
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| Subject: | Off line for a few days. |
Dr. Dee and I are headed for a long weekend along
the CA coast south of SF. I'm taking a computer along,
to service my MP3 player and let me do a bit of writing.
The good Dr. told me to leave that WiFi adapter home . . .
Yes ma'am! No problem!
Be back next Wednesday.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 19
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| Subject: | Bridge Diodes use |
Okay, if you use the bride diodes to power a device from two power sources.
Which one will carry the load?
Or will they both share the load in some way?
I thought I read or heard someplace that the power source with the higher
voltage takes the load but how much? All of it?
I hope this question makes sense.....
For example if a device draws 10 amps and is powered by bridge diode with
power source 1 at 13.8 volts and power source 2 at 13 volts
Will source 1 take the whole load all 10 amps ?
Or will they share it in some fashion and how do you calculate that ?
I ask since I want to make sure I do not over load my two power source
config.
Thanks
Jeff.
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