Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:32 AM - Re: Bridge Diodes use (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 05:55 AM - Re: fuseholder location ()
3. 07:41 AM - Re: Bob's LLC (Ed Mueller)
4. 07:53 AM - Re: Off line for a few days. (Vince-Himsl)
5. 08:12 AM - Re: Bridge Diodes use (Joe)
6. 08:15 AM - Re: Bob's LLC (Bret Smith)
7. 08:19 AM - Re: Wire Wrap Question (Mike)
8. 08:34 AM - Re: Re: E-Bus Diode (Joe)
9. 12:37 PM - Re: Off Topic? Scratch build your own autopilot (Charlie England)
10. 12:53 PM - Types Of Heat Shrink Tubing (Dave VanLanen)
11. 01:26 PM - Re: Types Of Heat Shrink Tubing (Bob White)
12. 01:27 PM - Heat Shrink Tubing (James H Nelson)
13. 01:46 PM - Re: Types Of Heat Shrink Tubing (Etienne Phillips)
14. 02:46 PM - Re: fuseholder location (Henry Trzeciakowski)
15. 04:52 PM - Re: fuseholder location (BobsV35B@aol.com)
16. 05:58 PM - Re: Types Of Heat Shrink Tubing (Ron Quillin)
17. 08:28 PM - Re: Harbor Freight 93258 charger evaluation (bob noffs)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Bridge Diodes use |
At 12:05 AM 5/29/2008 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Okay, if you use the bride diodes to power a device from two power sources.
>
>Which one will carry the load?
>Or will they both share the load in some way?
>I thought I read or heard someplace that the power source with the higher
>voltage takes the load but how much? All of it?
correct
>I hope this question makes sense.....
>
>For example if a device draws 10 amps and is powered by bridge diode with
>power source 1 at 13.8 volts and power source 2 at 13 volts
>
>Will source 1 take the whole load all 10 amps ?
>Or will they share it in some fashion and how do you calculate that ?
>
>I ask since I want to make sure I do not over load my two power source
>config.
Diodes used in this manner are not intended to
be load sharing devices. Their only function is
to make sure the load has voltage from at least
one source AND to prevent backfeed of energy from
a good source into a failed source.
Thus they are electrical ISOLATION.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 2
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Subject: | fuseholder location |
I'll be doing the same, but not too low as to absorb heat from the
exhaust. There are several fuse holders sold which have stand off mounts
that would have good application on a firewall and still allow air
circulation behind them. I like the durability of the B & C blocks, but
they lack a stand off mount and covers. A good cover is important to
keep out dirt/oil from the engine. A quick search on Google will reveal
a number of nice fuse block holders for all weather use.
I can't imagine an issue with installing on aircraft what is internal to
millions of automobiles sitting in boiling NYC traffic day after day
with no altercation save the massive CO2 release.
I believe the trick is to buy a well made product, perhaps for marine
use which is really heavy duty and further resistant to heat, dirt and
the like.
If anyone finds a good link, please pass it on.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry
McMillan
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 8:06 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: fuseholder location
--> <terryml5c2p6@sympatico.ca>
I'm planning to do the same thing, mounting small 6-circuit marine fuse
panels for the FADEC circuits relatively low down where the at-rest heat
at
least will be lower. Given that many modern cars have fuse/relay blocks
mounted in the engine compartment where it gets at least as hot as an
aircraft I expect them to be reliable but like you I would be interested
to
know if anyone has knowledge of heat problems with quality components on
the
engine side.
Terry McMillan
>From: revenson@comcast.net (Roger Evenson)
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: fuseholder location
>Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 23:01:38 +0000
>
>Evenson)
>
>Any reason to not put my fuse holders on the engine side of the
>firewall?
>
>Is the heat too much?
>
>
Message 3
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Hi Bob,
Have you looked at an HSA (Health Savings Account) for health
insurance? I won't go into too many details and everyone's situation
can vary, but if you can afford the deductible early on if you get
sick (worst case situation), it will eventually start to add up to a
significant amount of money in your account instead of the insurance
company's. Can work really well for a healthy younger person. Also,
I'm NOT in the insurance or healthcare business, only a small business
trying to stay afloat without lining the insurance company's pockets.
Ed
On May 29, 2008, at 12:01 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>
> At 08:06 PM 5/28/2008 -0400, you wrote:
>> Finally something I might share back from 25 years as
>> business/bankruptcy/attorney.
>>
>> This is not legal advice, just thoughts.
>>
>> LLC is good first step, still some questions as to whether a
>> corporation (C or S) is the best for liability protection.
>>
>> More importantly here, be careful of putting all your eggs in one
>> basket.
>>
>> In general, I recommend keeping separate businesses in separate legal
>> entities.
>>
>> It would be a shame to have the OBAM business hit with a claim that
>> originated against the locksmith, for instance.
>>
>> Or when the big national company wants to buy the hvac company,
>> having to separate out the other businesses. Some tax issues there
>> also.
>>
>> Mainly I worry about the cross liability issue. You don't want a
>> single point failure to ruin your entire economic plan.
>>
>> Regards, and thanks again for this internet resource, Skip (Florida)
>
> Thanks! Actually, the LLC is primarily a way to
> get me, my kids and ultimately my wife on a payroll
> for group health insurance. There will be few "eggs"
> of net worth.
>
> Practically all the value is embodied in skill-sets.
> It's also a way for my consulting income to be
> distributed the kids and taxed at their rates
> instead of mine.
>
> ML is a town of 2000 where one cannot make a living
> by being a specialist . . . so it's exceedingly
> unlikely that any of the specialty services would
> become attractive to a buyout candidate. We'll
> carry liability insurance . . . but only enough to
> buy us representation and not enough to make us
> a plum to pick.
>
> I'm becoming rather poor in a few weeks. My income
> is going to be less than what I was making when
> my boss raised my wages by 50% after one of my
> designs landed him a $multi-million$ fleet retrofit
> of the Lears . . . that was 28 years ago.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------)
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Off line for a few days. |
Have a good vacation and thanks for your help on my project.
Vince H.
RV-8 Final Assembly in Hanger
Moscow, ID.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 9:08 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Off line for a few days.
<nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
Dr. Dee and I are headed for a long weekend along
the CA coast south of SF. I'm taking a computer along,
to service my MP3 player and let me do a bit of writing.
The good Dr. told me to leave that WiFi adapter home . . .
Yes ma'am! No problem!
Be back next Wednesday.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Bridge Diodes use |
Jeff,I assume that you have two power sources so that if one fails, then
the other will carry the load. If that is true, then each circuit
should be designed to carry the full load.Joe
Message 6
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Bob, Ed is correct on the HSA. Definitely worth looking in to.
Bret Smith
RV-9A "Canopy"
Blue Ridge, GA
www.FlightInnovations.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Mueller" <ed@muellerartcover.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 10:37 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Bob's LLC
> <ed@muellerartcover.com>
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> Have you looked at an HSA (Health Savings Account) for health insurance?
> I won't go into too many details and everyone's situation can vary, but
> if you can afford the deductible early on if you get sick (worst case
> situation), it will eventually start to add up to a significant amount of
> money in your account instead of the insurance company's. Can work really
> well for a healthy younger person. Also, I'm NOT in the insurance or
> healthcare business, only a small business trying to stay afloat without
> lining the insurance company's pockets.
>
> Ed
>
>
> On May 29, 2008, at 12:01 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
>> <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>>
>> At 08:06 PM 5/28/2008 -0400, you wrote:
>>> Finally something I might share back from 25 years as
>>> business/bankruptcy/attorney.
>>>
>>> This is not legal advice, just thoughts.
>>>
>>> LLC is good first step, still some questions as to whether a corporation
>>> (C or S) is the best for liability protection.
>>>
>>> More importantly here, be careful of putting all your eggs in one
>>> basket.
>>>
>>> In general, I recommend keeping separate businesses in separate legal
>>> entities.
>>>
>>> It would be a shame to have the OBAM business hit with a claim that
>>> originated against the locksmith, for instance.
>>>
>>> Or when the big national company wants to buy the hvac company, having
>>> to separate out the other businesses. Some tax issues there also.
>>>
>>> Mainly I worry about the cross liability issue. You don't want a single
>>> point failure to ruin your entire economic plan.
>>>
>>> Regards, and thanks again for this internet resource, Skip (Florida)
>>
>> Thanks! Actually, the LLC is primarily a way to
>> get me, my kids and ultimately my wife on a payroll
>> for group health insurance. There will be few "eggs"
>> of net worth.
>>
>> Practically all the value is embodied in skill-sets.
>> It's also a way for my consulting income to be
>> distributed the kids and taxed at their rates
>> instead of mine.
>>
>> ML is a town of 2000 where one cannot make a living
>> by being a specialist . . . so it's exceedingly
>> unlikely that any of the specialty services would
>> become attractive to a buyout candidate. We'll
>> carry liability insurance . . . but only enough to
>> buy us representation and not enough to make us
>> a plum to pick.
>>
>> I'm becoming rather poor in a few weeks. My income
>> is going to be less than what I was making when
>> my boss raised my wages by 50% after one of my
>> designs landed him a $multi-million$ fleet retrofit
>> of the Lears . . . that was 28 years ago.
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>> ----------------------------------------)
>> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
>> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
>> ( appearance of being right . . . )
>> ( )
>> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
>> ----------------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Wire Wrap Question |
Yes it is wing stitch lacing cord. It comes in waxed and un-waxed in
both black and white. I like the black too, it looks nice and it=92s
easier to cut off when removing.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron
Quillin
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 12:02 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Wire Wrap Question
At 11:35 5/28/2008, you wrote:
White gets dirty very easily, both during tying and the spool just
kicking around on the workbench. Unless you have an anally clean work
area, get black.
Regards,
Greg Young
Oooooh, I just might fit.
I keep my white in a ziplock bag...
Also keeps assorted dust, grit and gunk from sticking to the wax and
making it less sticky.
And I do wash my hands before using the white.
BTW, I think it's called lacing cord, not wire wrap, which could be
confused with a method of wiring.
Ron Q.
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List"http://www.matroni
cs.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribu
tion
10/2/2007 11:10 AM
10/2/2007 11:10 AM
Message 8
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Glenn,These bridge diodes are used in Z drawings because they are
mechanically strong and easily mounted. The bridge diode contains more
than one diode inside of the case. You can either use one of the
internal diodes or two of them in parallel as B&C recommends. Two
diodes in parallel might have the advantage of sharing the current flow
and of having a backup in case one diode opens up. But just one of the
diodes inside of the bridge rectifier case is more than adequate for the
task. Just make sure that the polarity is correct. You could test the
diode with a continuity light to make sure that the current flows in the
direction that you want it to.
Joe
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Off Topic? Scratch build your own autopilot |
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>
> At 06:03 PM 5/26/2008 -0500, you wrote:
>> <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Sam Hoskins wrote:
>>> FYI - I have a very unusual auction going on Ebay for a
>>> scratch-build autopilot, and a story that goes with it. Here's the
>>> auction link:
>>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190225235720
>>> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190225235720>
>>>
>>>
>>> If that doesn't work just plug 190225235720 into the Ebay search box.
>>>
>>> Sorry for the shameless plug.
>>>
>>> Sam Hoskins
>>> Murphysboro, IL
>>
>> Hey Sam,
>> I actually have one those that came out of a T-18 (wrecked in a
>> storm) and there's another in a homebuilt of pre-WW-II Philippine
>> origin here on my home field.
>>
>> Unfortunately, I can't find the docs for it. How much to scan & email
>> the docs?
>
> I think I have a set of the plans. They were offered in a
> series of articles in Sport Aviation. If I get time
> I'll scan them and post to the website.
>
> Actually, these have more historical value than practical.
> Nowadays, one might use a piezo rotational-rate sensor
> as opposed to building the fluid-jet device that Doug concocted.
> But the fluid-jet rate sensor has a certain elegance of
> thought behind it that I find fascinating.
>
> Further, while Doug offered a means by which one could craft
> a DIY flux-gate magnetometer to derive magnetic heading,
> I think I would opt for getting true or magnetic course off
> a GPS engine.
>
> Having said all that, it's interesting to peer into the
> mind of Doug Garner. I had the pleasure of conversation with
> him over several years attendance at OSH. He possessed one
> of those rare intellects that could sift through piles of
> simple-ideas and past recipes for success to come up with
> new and better ways to do it . . . or techniques that can
> be accomplished in a hobbyist's electronics shop.
>
> A true teacher.
>
> I just found the folder where I'd stored Doug's work
> and discovered that it also contains a data
> package by a Mr. Don Hewes who also did a manual on
> home built a/p systems. Don references Doug's work
> and offers some interesting variations on a theme tailored
> to tools, materials and techniques available to us about
> 1980 when this work was getting started.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------)
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ----------------------------------------
Great! My interest is primarily historical/nostalgic, as well. The
autopilot was in the 1st homebuilt I purchased after getting my pilot's
license.
While I know that new technology is superior, I suspect that the rate
sensor Mr. Garner created from dirt-cheap parts was at least as good as
the then current technology & many orders of magnitude less expensive.
If you can post to the web site, that would be great.
Charlie
Message 10
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Subject: | Types Of Heat Shrink Tubing |
In shopping online for heat shrink tubing, I noticed that there are many
different materials used in their manufacture - polyolefin, neoprene, PVC,
Kynar, Viton, etc. Does the material type matter? Are there any that I
should avoid?
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Types Of Heat Shrink Tubing |
On Thu, 29 May 2008 14:50:42 -0500
"Dave VanLanen" <davevanlanen@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> In shopping online for heat shrink tubing, I noticed that there are many
> different materials used in their manufacture - polyolefin, neoprene, PVC,
> Kynar, Viton, etc. Does the material type matter? Are there any that I
> should avoid?
>
The two most common varieties are polyolefin and PVC. The PVC shrinks
at a lower temperature and may even shrink a little sitting around.
The polyolefin shrinks at a higher temperature, and will usually be
slightly larger than it's nominal size until you shrink it. The PVC is
quite a bit cheaper.
I haven't used any of the others. I believe Kynar is for higher
temperature use. I don't know what special purpose the others might be
used for. I did run across this web site which briefly describes
several different types:
http://www.insulationplastics.com/heatst.htm#202
Bob W.
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
3.8 Hours Total Time and holding
Cables for your rotary installation - http://roblinstores.com/cables/
Message 12
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Subject: | Heat Shrink Tubing |
Dave,
Polyolefin tubing that I got from McMaster Carr. P/N 7856k133,
1/8" shrinks to 1/16". I used a bunch of this. If you are just
starting out, I would order at least 50'. If you have a glass panel and
other things on your panel, then I would order 75' at a minimum.
Remember that you will use about 2.5" to 3" on each wire. ID at each
end. It surprised me how much I used. I think I used around 100'. I
had to order twice to have enough for the job. I also got the next size
up but I used very little of it. Maybe 5' or so.
Jim Nelson
N15JN RV9-A
Ready to fly
(checking engine tomorrow)
____________________________________________________________
Click for online loan, fast & no lender fee, approval today
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m3WL26oQTuKSt19r5pFUpo7DwJjM1gfTggP4yFTSW11WAKN/
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Types Of Heat Shrink Tubing |
On 29 May 2008, at 10:18 PM, Bob White wrote:
> The two most common varieties are polyolefin and PVC. The PVC shrinks
> at a lower temperature and may even shrink a little sitting around.
> The polyolefin shrinks at a higher temperature, and will usually be
> slightly larger than it's nominal size until you shrink it. The
> PVC is
> quite a bit cheaper.
>
Hi all
I was wondering about this very question this afternoon...
Isn't it a bad idea to use PVC in aircraft wiring - even if it's just
for labelling? 100' of PVC is not an insignificant of cyanide-
generating plastic when it catches fire...
I'm currently using PVC all over my wiring harness, but after reading
about the dangers of PVC insulation, I'm definitely chucking it out
when the panel is re-born!
Etienne
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: fuseholder location |
I purchassed my from all places Dogbyte Computer, in Marietta, Ga;
www.dogbytecomputer.com. It's a Blue Sea Marine Blade Fuse Block - 12
circuit-No Negitive Bus, with cover (#5029).They also have a fuse block with
a negitive bus. I opted for no negitive bus for I'm using B&C's Ground Bus
architecture.
I mounted mine just to the left of my battery (building a 9A) and mounted
with 4 #10 screws with nutplates.
Worked for me...
Henry
----- Original Message -----
From: <longg@pjm.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 5:51 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: fuseholder location
>
> I'll be doing the same, but not too low as to absorb heat from the
> exhaust. There are several fuse holders sold which have stand off mounts
> that would have good application on a firewall and still allow air
> circulation behind them. I like the durability of the B & C blocks, but
> they lack a stand off mount and covers. A good cover is important to
> keep out dirt/oil from the engine. A quick search on Google will reveal
> a number of nice fuse block holders for all weather use.
>
> I can't imagine an issue with installing on aircraft what is internal to
> millions of automobiles sitting in boiling NYC traffic day after day
> with no altercation save the massive CO2 release.
>
> I believe the trick is to buy a well made product, perhaps for marine
> use which is really heavy duty and further resistant to heat, dirt and
> the like.
>
> If anyone finds a good link, please pass it on.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry
> McMillan
> Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 8:06 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: fuseholder location
>
>
> --> <terryml5c2p6@sympatico.ca>
>
> I'm planning to do the same thing, mounting small 6-circuit marine fuse
> panels for the FADEC circuits relatively low down where the at-rest heat
> at
> least will be lower. Given that many modern cars have fuse/relay blocks
> mounted in the engine compartment where it gets at least as hot as an
> aircraft I expect them to be reliable but like you I would be interested
> to
> know if anyone has knowledge of heat problems with quality components on
> the
> engine side.
>
> Terry McMillan
>
>
> >From: revenson@comcast.net (Roger Evenson)
> >To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: AeroElectric-List: fuseholder location
> >Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 23:01:38 +0000
> >
> >Evenson)
> >
> >Any reason to not put my fuse holders on the engine side of the
> >firewall?
> >
> >Is the heat too much?
> >
> >
>
>
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: fuseholder location |
Good Evening longg,
For What It Is Worth, Beechcraft has mounted a fuse block on the firewall
aft of the engine in their Bonanzas for at least thirty years.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
628 West 86th Street
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
In a message dated 5/29/2008 7:57:38 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
longg@pjm.com writes:
I'll be doing the same, but not too low as to absorb heat from the
exhaust. There are several fuse holders sold which have stand off mounts
that would have good application on a firewall and still allow air
circulation behind them. I like the durability of the B & C blocks, but
they lack a stand off mount and covers. A good cover is important to
keep out dirt/oil from the engine. A quick search on Google will reveal
a number of nice fuse block holders for all weather use.
I can't imagine an issue with installing on aircraft what is internal to
millions of automobiles sitting in boiling NYC traffic day after day
with no altercation save the massive CO2 release.
I believe the trick is to buy a well made product, perhaps for marine
use which is really heavy duty and further resistant to heat, dirt and
the like.
**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Types Of Heat Shrink Tubing |
At 12:50 5/29/2008, you wrote:
>In shopping online for heat shrink tubing, I
>noticed that there are many different materials
>used in their manufacture ' polyolefin,
>neoprene, PVC, Kynar, Viton, etc. Does the
>material type matter? Are there any that I should avoid?
PVC insulated cable is generally not used in
aircraft, nor should PVC shrink be used.
Polyolefin is of higher quality.
Kynar, aka polyvinylidene fluoride (PDVF) is
generally required for mission critical
applications and where outgassing is an issue,
but is a bit less flexible but much more resistant to abrasion and
splitting.
Use clear so the joint can be inspected, unless you need to hide your work.
Most shrink is 2:1, but 3:1 is available.
Here is a link to the Bible of harness assembly
http://tinyurl.com/5y5jkz
Good stuff starts around Chapter 9, pdf page 43.
Another brief link to standards
http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/links/sections/files/appendix
.pdf
Ron Q.
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Harbor Freight 93258 charger evaluation |
bob, sounds like this would be an acceptacle substitute for a $25
maintainer. thanks for digging into this. will be interested to see what the
cheaper unit does if you get the chance. if you want to dump the unit you
bought and tested , contact me off list and i will send you $13 for the unit
and pay your shipping charges bob noffs
icubob@newnorth.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 10:55 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Harbor Freight 93258 charger evaluation
> <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>
> Got over to HF late last week and picked up a couple
> of the latest and cheapest chargers. The first one I
> had a chance to evaluate was the 93258, 1.5 "on board"
> charger.
>
> Here's the recharge profile I recorded . . .
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/HF_Chargers/HF93258_1.jpg
>
>
> This is a bit of a pig for 1.5A charger. Probably wouldn't
> want to mount it on your airplane. However, it is nicely
> built and would probably be just fine for wheel or water-
> borne vehicles.
>
> It's NOT a battery maintainer. No top-off dwell. Further,
> it oscillates between about 13.0 volts and 14.0 volts with
> relatively short busts of input energy necessary to push
> the battery terminal voltage back up to 14.0 volts.
>
> An excellent buy at $13.00 but not the best we know how
> to do with maintainers.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------)
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
>
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