AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Thu 05/29/08


Total Messages Posted: 17



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:32 AM - Re: Bridge Diodes use (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     2. 05:55 AM - Re: fuseholder location ()
     3. 07:41 AM - Re: Bob's LLC (Ed Mueller)
     4. 07:53 AM - Re: Off line for a few days. (Vince-Himsl)
     5. 08:12 AM - Re: Bridge Diodes use (Joe)
     6. 08:15 AM - Re: Bob's LLC (Bret Smith)
     7. 08:19 AM - Re: Wire Wrap Question (Mike)
     8. 08:34 AM - Re: Re: E-Bus Diode  (Joe)
     9. 12:37 PM - Re: Off Topic? Scratch build your own autopilot (Charlie England)
    10. 12:53 PM - Types Of Heat Shrink Tubing (Dave VanLanen)
    11. 01:26 PM - Re: Types Of Heat Shrink Tubing (Bob White)
    12. 01:27 PM - Heat Shrink Tubing (James H Nelson)
    13. 01:46 PM - Re: Types Of Heat Shrink Tubing (Etienne Phillips)
    14. 02:46 PM - Re: fuseholder location (Henry Trzeciakowski)
    15. 04:52 PM - Re: fuseholder location (BobsV35B@aol.com)
    16. 05:58 PM - Re: Types Of Heat Shrink Tubing (Ron Quillin)
    17. 08:28 PM - Re: Harbor Freight 93258 charger evaluation (bob noffs)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:32:23 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Bridge Diodes use
    At 12:05 AM 5/29/2008 -0500, you wrote: > >Okay, if you use the bride diodes to power a device from two power sources. > >Which one will carry the load? >Or will they both share the load in some way? >I thought I read or heard someplace that the power source with the higher >voltage takes the load but how much? All of it? correct >I hope this question makes sense..... > >For example if a device draws 10 amps and is powered by bridge diode with >power source 1 at 13.8 volts and power source 2 at 13 volts > >Will source 1 take the whole load all 10 amps ? >Or will they share it in some fashion and how do you calculate that ? > >I ask since I want to make sure I do not over load my two power source >config. Diodes used in this manner are not intended to be load sharing devices. Their only function is to make sure the load has voltage from at least one source AND to prevent backfeed of energy from a good source into a failed source. Thus they are electrical ISOLATION. Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:55:00 AM PST US
    Subject: fuseholder location
    From: <longg@pjm.com>
    I'll be doing the same, but not too low as to absorb heat from the exhaust. There are several fuse holders sold which have stand off mounts that would have good application on a firewall and still allow air circulation behind them. I like the durability of the B & C blocks, but they lack a stand off mount and covers. A good cover is important to keep out dirt/oil from the engine. A quick search on Google will reveal a number of nice fuse block holders for all weather use. I can't imagine an issue with installing on aircraft what is internal to millions of automobiles sitting in boiling NYC traffic day after day with no altercation save the massive CO2 release. I believe the trick is to buy a well made product, perhaps for marine use which is really heavy duty and further resistant to heat, dirt and the like. If anyone finds a good link, please pass it on. -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry McMillan Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 8:06 PM Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: fuseholder location --> <terryml5c2p6@sympatico.ca> I'm planning to do the same thing, mounting small 6-circuit marine fuse panels for the FADEC circuits relatively low down where the at-rest heat at least will be lower. Given that many modern cars have fuse/relay blocks mounted in the engine compartment where it gets at least as hot as an aircraft I expect them to be reliable but like you I would be interested to know if anyone has knowledge of heat problems with quality components on the engine side. Terry McMillan >From: revenson@comcast.net (Roger Evenson) >To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com >Subject: AeroElectric-List: fuseholder location >Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 23:01:38 +0000 > >Evenson) > >Any reason to not put my fuse holders on the engine side of the >firewall? > >Is the heat too much? > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:41:41 AM PST US
    From: Ed Mueller <ed@muellerartcover.com>
    Subject: Re: Bob's LLC
    Hi Bob, Have you looked at an HSA (Health Savings Account) for health insurance? I won't go into too many details and everyone's situation can vary, but if you can afford the deductible early on if you get sick (worst case situation), it will eventually start to add up to a significant amount of money in your account instead of the insurance company's. Can work really well for a healthy younger person. Also, I'm NOT in the insurance or healthcare business, only a small business trying to stay afloat without lining the insurance company's pockets. Ed On May 29, 2008, at 12:01 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > <nuckolls.bob@cox.net> > > At 08:06 PM 5/28/2008 -0400, you wrote: >> Finally something I might share back from 25 years as >> business/bankruptcy/attorney. >> >> This is not legal advice, just thoughts. >> >> LLC is good first step, still some questions as to whether a >> corporation (C or S) is the best for liability protection. >> >> More importantly here, be careful of putting all your eggs in one >> basket. >> >> In general, I recommend keeping separate businesses in separate legal >> entities. >> >> It would be a shame to have the OBAM business hit with a claim that >> originated against the locksmith, for instance. >> >> Or when the big national company wants to buy the hvac company, >> having to separate out the other businesses. Some tax issues there >> also. >> >> Mainly I worry about the cross liability issue. You don't want a >> single point failure to ruin your entire economic plan. >> >> Regards, and thanks again for this internet resource, Skip (Florida) > > Thanks! Actually, the LLC is primarily a way to > get me, my kids and ultimately my wife on a payroll > for group health insurance. There will be few "eggs" > of net worth. > > Practically all the value is embodied in skill-sets. > It's also a way for my consulting income to be > distributed the kids and taxed at their rates > instead of mine. > > ML is a town of 2000 where one cannot make a living > by being a specialist . . . so it's exceedingly > unlikely that any of the specialty services would > become attractive to a buyout candidate. We'll > carry liability insurance . . . but only enough to > buy us representation and not enough to make us > a plum to pick. > > I'm becoming rather poor in a few weeks. My income > is going to be less than what I was making when > my boss raised my wages by 50% after one of my > designs landed him a $multi-million$ fleet retrofit > of the Lears . . . that was 28 years ago. > > > Bob . . . > > ----------------------------------------) > ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) > ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) > ( appearance of being right . . . ) > ( ) > ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) > ---------------------------------------- > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:53:48 AM PST US
    From: "Vince-Himsl" <vhimsl@roadrunner.com>
    Subject: Off line for a few days.
    Have a good vacation and thanks for your help on my project. Vince H. RV-8 Final Assembly in Hanger Moscow, ID. -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 9:08 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Off line for a few days. <nuckolls.bob@cox.net> Dr. Dee and I are headed for a long weekend along the CA coast south of SF. I'm taking a computer along, to service my MP3 player and let me do a bit of writing. The good Dr. told me to leave that WiFi adapter home . . . Yes ma'am! No problem! Be back next Wednesday. Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:12:33 AM PST US
    From: "Joe" <fran5sew@banyanol.com>
    Subject: Re: Bridge Diodes use
    Jeff,I assume that you have two power sources so that if one fails, then the other will carry the load. If that is true, then each circuit should be designed to carry the full load.Joe


    Message 6


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    Time: 08:15:31 AM PST US
    From: "Bret Smith" <smithhb@tds.net>
    Subject: Re: Bob's LLC
    Bob, Ed is correct on the HSA. Definitely worth looking in to. Bret Smith RV-9A "Canopy" Blue Ridge, GA www.FlightInnovations.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Mueller" <ed@muellerartcover.com> Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 10:37 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Bob's LLC > <ed@muellerartcover.com> > > Hi Bob, > > Have you looked at an HSA (Health Savings Account) for health insurance? > I won't go into too many details and everyone's situation can vary, but > if you can afford the deductible early on if you get sick (worst case > situation), it will eventually start to add up to a significant amount of > money in your account instead of the insurance company's. Can work really > well for a healthy younger person. Also, I'm NOT in the insurance or > healthcare business, only a small business trying to stay afloat without > lining the insurance company's pockets. > > Ed > > > On May 29, 2008, at 12:01 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > >> <nuckolls.bob@cox.net> >> >> At 08:06 PM 5/28/2008 -0400, you wrote: >>> Finally something I might share back from 25 years as >>> business/bankruptcy/attorney. >>> >>> This is not legal advice, just thoughts. >>> >>> LLC is good first step, still some questions as to whether a corporation >>> (C or S) is the best for liability protection. >>> >>> More importantly here, be careful of putting all your eggs in one >>> basket. >>> >>> In general, I recommend keeping separate businesses in separate legal >>> entities. >>> >>> It would be a shame to have the OBAM business hit with a claim that >>> originated against the locksmith, for instance. >>> >>> Or when the big national company wants to buy the hvac company, having >>> to separate out the other businesses. Some tax issues there also. >>> >>> Mainly I worry about the cross liability issue. You don't want a single >>> point failure to ruin your entire economic plan. >>> >>> Regards, and thanks again for this internet resource, Skip (Florida) >> >> Thanks! Actually, the LLC is primarily a way to >> get me, my kids and ultimately my wife on a payroll >> for group health insurance. There will be few "eggs" >> of net worth. >> >> Practically all the value is embodied in skill-sets. >> It's also a way for my consulting income to be >> distributed the kids and taxed at their rates >> instead of mine. >> >> ML is a town of 2000 where one cannot make a living >> by being a specialist . . . so it's exceedingly >> unlikely that any of the specialty services would >> become attractive to a buyout candidate. We'll >> carry liability insurance . . . but only enough to >> buy us representation and not enough to make us >> a plum to pick. >> >> I'm becoming rather poor in a few weeks. My income >> is going to be less than what I was making when >> my boss raised my wages by 50% after one of my >> designs landed him a $multi-million$ fleet retrofit >> of the Lears . . . that was 28 years ago. >> >> >> Bob . . . >> >> ----------------------------------------) >> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) >> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) >> ( appearance of being right . . . ) >> ( ) >> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) >> ---------------------------------------- >> >> >> >> >> >> > > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 08:19:14 AM PST US
    From: "Mike" <mlas@cox.net>
    Subject: Wire Wrap Question
    Yes it is wing stitch lacing cord. It comes in waxed and un-waxed in both black and white. I like the black too, it looks nice and it=92s easier to cut off when removing. Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Quillin Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 12:02 PM Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Wire Wrap Question At 11:35 5/28/2008, you wrote: White gets dirty very easily, both during tying and the spool just kicking around on the workbench. Unless you have an anally clean work area, get black. Regards, Greg Young Oooooh, I just might fit. I keep my white in a ziplock bag... Also keeps assorted dust, grit and gunk from sticking to the wax and making it less sticky. And I do wash my hands before using the white. BTW, I think it's called lacing cord, not wire wrap, which could be confused with a method of wiring. Ron Q. "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List"http://www.matroni cs.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List "http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com "http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribu tion 10/2/2007 11:10 AM 10/2/2007 11:10 AM


    Message 8


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    Time: 08:34:59 AM PST US
    From: "Joe" <fran5sew@banyanol.com>
    Subject: Re: E-Bus Diode
    Glenn,These bridge diodes are used in Z drawings because they are mechanically strong and easily mounted. The bridge diode contains more than one diode inside of the case. You can either use one of the internal diodes or two of them in parallel as B&C recommends. Two diodes in parallel might have the advantage of sharing the current flow and of having a backup in case one diode opens up. But just one of the diodes inside of the bridge rectifier case is more than adequate for the task. Just make sure that the polarity is correct. You could test the diode with a continuity light to make sure that the current flows in the direction that you want it to. Joe


    Message 9


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    Time: 12:37:55 PM PST US
    From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Off Topic? Scratch build your own autopilot
    Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > <nuckolls.bob@cox.net> > > At 06:03 PM 5/26/2008 -0500, you wrote: >> <ceengland@bellsouth.net> >> >> Sam Hoskins wrote: >>> FYI - I have a very unusual auction going on Ebay for a >>> scratch-build autopilot, and a story that goes with it. Here's the >>> auction link: >>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190225235720 >>> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190225235720> >>> >>> >>> If that doesn't work just plug 190225235720 into the Ebay search box. >>> >>> Sorry for the shameless plug. >>> >>> Sam Hoskins >>> Murphysboro, IL >> >> Hey Sam, >> I actually have one those that came out of a T-18 (wrecked in a >> storm) and there's another in a homebuilt of pre-WW-II Philippine >> origin here on my home field. >> >> Unfortunately, I can't find the docs for it. How much to scan & email >> the docs? > > I think I have a set of the plans. They were offered in a > series of articles in Sport Aviation. If I get time > I'll scan them and post to the website. > > Actually, these have more historical value than practical. > Nowadays, one might use a piezo rotational-rate sensor > as opposed to building the fluid-jet device that Doug concocted. > But the fluid-jet rate sensor has a certain elegance of > thought behind it that I find fascinating. > > Further, while Doug offered a means by which one could craft > a DIY flux-gate magnetometer to derive magnetic heading, > I think I would opt for getting true or magnetic course off > a GPS engine. > > Having said all that, it's interesting to peer into the > mind of Doug Garner. I had the pleasure of conversation with > him over several years attendance at OSH. He possessed one > of those rare intellects that could sift through piles of > simple-ideas and past recipes for success to come up with > new and better ways to do it . . . or techniques that can > be accomplished in a hobbyist's electronics shop. > > A true teacher. > > I just found the folder where I'd stored Doug's work > and discovered that it also contains a data > package by a Mr. Don Hewes who also did a manual on > home built a/p systems. Don references Doug's work > and offers some interesting variations on a theme tailored > to tools, materials and techniques available to us about > 1980 when this work was getting started. > > Bob . . . > > ----------------------------------------) > ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) > ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) > ( appearance of being right . . . ) > ( ) > ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) > ---------------------------------------- Great! My interest is primarily historical/nostalgic, as well. The autopilot was in the 1st homebuilt I purchased after getting my pilot's license. While I know that new technology is superior, I suspect that the rate sensor Mr. Garner created from dirt-cheap parts was at least as good as the then current technology & many orders of magnitude less expensive. If you can post to the web site, that would be great. Charlie


    Message 10


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    Time: 12:53:38 PM PST US
    From: "Dave VanLanen" <davevanlanen@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Types Of Heat Shrink Tubing
    In shopping online for heat shrink tubing, I noticed that there are many different materials used in their manufacture - polyolefin, neoprene, PVC, Kynar, Viton, etc. Does the material type matter? Are there any that I should avoid?


    Message 11


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    Time: 01:26:08 PM PST US
    From: Bob White <bob@bob-white.com>
    Subject: Re: Types Of Heat Shrink Tubing
    On Thu, 29 May 2008 14:50:42 -0500 "Dave VanLanen" <davevanlanen@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > In shopping online for heat shrink tubing, I noticed that there are many > different materials used in their manufacture - polyolefin, neoprene, PVC, > Kynar, Viton, etc. Does the material type matter? Are there any that I > should avoid? > The two most common varieties are polyolefin and PVC. The PVC shrinks at a lower temperature and may even shrink a little sitting around. The polyolefin shrinks at a higher temperature, and will usually be slightly larger than it's nominal size until you shrink it. The PVC is quite a bit cheaper. I haven't used any of the others. I believe Kynar is for higher temperature use. I don't know what special purpose the others might be used for. I did run across this web site which briefly describes several different types: http://www.insulationplastics.com/heatst.htm#202 Bob W. -- N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com 3.8 Hours Total Time and holding Cables for your rotary installation - http://roblinstores.com/cables/


    Message 12


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    Time: 01:27:20 PM PST US
    Subject: Heat Shrink Tubing
    From: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
    Dave, Polyolefin tubing that I got from McMaster Carr. P/N 7856k133, 1/8" shrinks to 1/16". I used a bunch of this. If you are just starting out, I would order at least 50'. If you have a glass panel and other things on your panel, then I would order 75' at a minimum. Remember that you will use about 2.5" to 3" on each wire. ID at each end. It surprised me how much I used. I think I used around 100'. I had to order twice to have enough for the job. I also got the next size up but I used very little of it. Maybe 5' or so. Jim Nelson N15JN RV9-A Ready to fly (checking engine tomorrow) ____________________________________________________________ Click for online loan, fast & no lender fee, approval today http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m3WL26oQTuKSt19r5pFUpo7DwJjM1gfTggP4yFTSW11WAKN/


    Message 13


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    Time: 01:46:11 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Types Of Heat Shrink Tubing
    From: Etienne Phillips <etienne.phillips@gmail.com>
    On 29 May 2008, at 10:18 PM, Bob White wrote: > The two most common varieties are polyolefin and PVC. The PVC shrinks > at a lower temperature and may even shrink a little sitting around. > The polyolefin shrinks at a higher temperature, and will usually be > slightly larger than it's nominal size until you shrink it. The > PVC is > quite a bit cheaper. > Hi all I was wondering about this very question this afternoon... Isn't it a bad idea to use PVC in aircraft wiring - even if it's just for labelling? 100' of PVC is not an insignificant of cyanide- generating plastic when it catches fire... I'm currently using PVC all over my wiring harness, but after reading about the dangers of PVC insulation, I'm definitely chucking it out when the panel is re-born! Etienne


    Message 14


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    Time: 02:46:30 PM PST US
    From: "Henry Trzeciakowski" <hammer408@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: fuseholder location
    I purchassed my from all places Dogbyte Computer, in Marietta, Ga; www.dogbytecomputer.com. It's a Blue Sea Marine Blade Fuse Block - 12 circuit-No Negitive Bus, with cover (#5029).They also have a fuse block with a negitive bus. I opted for no negitive bus for I'm using B&C's Ground Bus architecture. I mounted mine just to the left of my battery (building a 9A) and mounted with 4 #10 screws with nutplates. Worked for me... Henry ----- Original Message ----- From: <longg@pjm.com> Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 5:51 AM Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: fuseholder location > > I'll be doing the same, but not too low as to absorb heat from the > exhaust. There are several fuse holders sold which have stand off mounts > that would have good application on a firewall and still allow air > circulation behind them. I like the durability of the B & C blocks, but > they lack a stand off mount and covers. A good cover is important to > keep out dirt/oil from the engine. A quick search on Google will reveal > a number of nice fuse block holders for all weather use. > > I can't imagine an issue with installing on aircraft what is internal to > millions of automobiles sitting in boiling NYC traffic day after day > with no altercation save the massive CO2 release. > > I believe the trick is to buy a well made product, perhaps for marine > use which is really heavy duty and further resistant to heat, dirt and > the like. > > If anyone finds a good link, please pass it on. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry > McMillan > Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 8:06 PM > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: fuseholder location > > > --> <terryml5c2p6@sympatico.ca> > > I'm planning to do the same thing, mounting small 6-circuit marine fuse > panels for the FADEC circuits relatively low down where the at-rest heat > at > least will be lower. Given that many modern cars have fuse/relay blocks > mounted in the engine compartment where it gets at least as hot as an > aircraft I expect them to be reliable but like you I would be interested > to > know if anyone has knowledge of heat problems with quality components on > the > engine side. > > Terry McMillan > > > >From: revenson@comcast.net (Roger Evenson) > >To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > >Subject: AeroElectric-List: fuseholder location > >Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 23:01:38 +0000 > > > >Evenson) > > > >Any reason to not put my fuse holders on the engine side of the > >firewall? > > > >Is the heat too much? > > > > > >


    Message 15


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    Time: 04:52:40 PM PST US
    From: BobsV35B@aol.com
    Subject: Re: fuseholder location
    Good Evening longg, For What It Is Worth, Beechcraft has mounted a fuse block on the firewall aft of the engine in their Bonanzas for at least thirty years. Happy Skies, Old Bob AKA Bob Siegfried Ancient Aviator 628 West 86th Street Downers Grove, IL 60516 630 985-8502 Stearman N3977A Brookeridge Air Park LL22 In a message dated 5/29/2008 7:57:38 A.M. Central Daylight Time, longg@pjm.com writes: I'll be doing the same, but not too low as to absorb heat from the exhaust. There are several fuse holders sold which have stand off mounts that would have good application on a firewall and still allow air circulation behind them. I like the durability of the B & C blocks, but they lack a stand off mount and covers. A good cover is important to keep out dirt/oil from the engine. A quick search on Google will reveal a number of nice fuse block holders for all weather use. I can't imagine an issue with installing on aircraft what is internal to millions of automobiles sitting in boiling NYC traffic day after day with no altercation save the massive CO2 release. I believe the trick is to buy a well made product, perhaps for marine use which is really heavy duty and further resistant to heat, dirt and the like. **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)


    Message 16


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    Time: 05:58:45 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Types Of Heat Shrink Tubing
    From: Ron Quillin <rjquillin@gmail.com>
    At 12:50 5/29/2008, you wrote: >In shopping online for heat shrink tubing, I >noticed that there are many different materials >used in their manufacture ' polyolefin, >neoprene, PVC, Kynar, Viton, etc. Does the >material type matter? Are there any that I should avoid? PVC insulated cable is generally not used in aircraft, nor should PVC shrink be used. Polyolefin is of higher quality. Kynar, aka polyvinylidene fluoride (PDVF) is generally required for mission critical applications and where outgassing is an issue, but is a bit less flexible but much more resistant to abrasion and splitting. Use clear so the joint can be inspected, unless you need to hide your work. Most shrink is 2:1, but 3:1 is available. Here is a link to the Bible of harness assembly http://tinyurl.com/5y5jkz Good stuff starts around Chapter 9, pdf page 43. Another brief link to standards http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/links/sections/files/appendix .pdf Ron Q.


    Message 17


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    Time: 08:28:44 PM PST US
    From: "bob noffs" <icubob@newnorth.net>
    Subject: Re: Harbor Freight 93258 charger evaluation
    bob, sounds like this would be an acceptacle substitute for a $25 maintainer. thanks for digging into this. will be interested to see what the cheaper unit does if you get the chance. if you want to dump the unit you bought and tested , contact me off list and i will send you $13 for the unit and pay your shipping charges bob noffs icubob@newnorth.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net> Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 10:55 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Harbor Freight 93258 charger evaluation > <nuckolls.bob@cox.net> > > Got over to HF late last week and picked up a couple > of the latest and cheapest chargers. The first one I > had a chance to evaluate was the 93258, 1.5 "on board" > charger. > > Here's the recharge profile I recorded . . . > > http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/HF_Chargers/HF93258_1.jpg > > > This is a bit of a pig for 1.5A charger. Probably wouldn't > want to mount it on your airplane. However, it is nicely > built and would probably be just fine for wheel or water- > borne vehicles. > > It's NOT a battery maintainer. No top-off dwell. Further, > it oscillates between about 13.0 volts and 14.0 volts with > relatively short busts of input energy necessary to push > the battery terminal voltage back up to 14.0 volts. > > An excellent buy at $13.00 but not the best we know how > to do with maintainers. > > > Bob . . . > > ----------------------------------------) > ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) > ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) > ( appearance of being right . . . ) > ( ) > ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) > ---------------------------------------- > > >




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