AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Sun 06/08/08


Total Messages Posted: 11



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:10 PM - HF42292 'charger' (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     2. 02:48 PM - Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? (mikef)
     3. 03:01 PM - Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? (Ron Shannon)
     4. 03:02 PM - Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? (Robert Feldtman)
     5. 03:05 PM - EIS and Vans Fuel Gauge (James H Nelson)
     6. 03:09 PM - Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? (Ron Shannon)
     7. 03:20 PM - Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? (Ron Shannon)
     8. 03:53 PM - Re: HF42292 'charger' (earl_schroeder@juno.com)
     9. 05:29 PM - Ray Allen Position Indicators (txpilot)
    10. 05:52 PM - Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    11. 08:53 PM - Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? (mikef)
 
 
 


Message 1


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 12:10:25 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
    Subject: HF42292 'charger'
    Before shipping this one off to the "happy charger grounds in the sky", I opened it up to see how "smart" it really was. Pictures are posted at: http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/HF_Chargers/HF42292_0.jpg http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/HF_Chargers/HF42292_1.jpg http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/HF_Chargers/HF42292_2.jpg As external examination of performance suggested, this is a current limited, voltage limited power supply set for 13.4 volts at about 0.6 amps. Fine for long term storage of charged batteries but not up to the task of topping off a dead battery. Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 2


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 02:48:33 PM PST US
    Subject: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?
    From: "mikef" <mikefapex@gmail.com>
    Hi AeroElectricteers, I am close to actually mounting the switches (99% B&C Carling switches) and finalizing the wiring in my Z-19 system. I was looking for recommendations about how to drill clean, neat holes for switches in my light aluminum boxes. Because of panel space I will need to mount several switches, along with rectangular digital volt and ammeter gauges, on the dash above the fiberglass panel, in a long aluminum box. The box I have is about 12"x3"x3" , that comes in two parts, separates easily with screws removed. I plan to mount the box base on top of the dash, then mount the switches into the other half that mates together. I have access to a small drill press but I've not done this kind of drilling/mounting before, and I'd really like to do a neat job of it. No rough gouged holes. Advice and suggestions regarding tools (dills, bits, etc) and techniques for drilling the round switch holes and rectangular gauge holes is most appreciated. Thanks, Mike Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186861#186861


    Message 3


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 03:01:06 PM PST US
    From: "Ron Shannon" <rshannon@CRUZCOM.COM>
    Subject: Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?
    Mike, A "unibit" or "step drill" does a nice job in a drill press. I used one for a dozen switch holes that came out very nice. Start by drilling a 1/8-3/32" pilot hole. Be sure to clamp the work so it doesn't wander. Use a relatively slow speed. The unibit makes a very clean cut. Ron On Sun, Jun 8, 2008 at 2:44 PM, mikef <mikefapex@gmail.com> wrote: > > Hi AeroElectricteers, > > I am close to actually mounting the switches (99% B&C Carling switches) and > finalizing the wiring in my Z-19 system. I was looking for recommendations > about how to drill clean, neat holes for switches in my light aluminum > boxes. > > Because of panel space I will need to mount several switches, along with > rectangular digital volt and ammeter gauges, on the dash above the > fiberglass panel, in a long aluminum box. The box I have is about 12"x3"x3" > , that comes in two parts, separates easily with screws removed. I plan to > mount the box base on top of the dash, then mount the switches into the > other half that mates together. > > I have access to a small drill press but I've not done this kind of > drilling/mounting before, and I'd really like to do a neat job of it. No > rough gouged holes. Advice and suggestions regarding tools (dills, bits, > etc) and techniques for drilling the round switch holes and rectangular > gauge holes is most appreciated. > > Thanks, > Mike > >


    Message 4


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 03:02:36 PM PST US
    From: "Robert Feldtman" <bobf@feldtman.com>
    Subject: Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?
    a "punch" is better - they are on sale at Harbour freight bobf On 6/8/08, mikef <mikefapex@gmail.com> wrote: > > > Hi AeroElectricteers, > > I am close to actually mounting the switches (99% B&C Carling switches) and > finalizing the wiring in my Z-19 system. I was looking for recommendations > about how to drill clean, neat holes for switches in my light aluminum > boxes. > > Because of panel space I will need to mount several switches, along with > rectangular digital volt and ammeter gauges, on the dash above the > fiberglass panel, in a long aluminum box. The box I have is about 12"x3"x3" > , that comes in two parts, separates easily with screws removed. I plan to > mount the box base on top of the dash, then mount the switches into the > other half that mates together. > > I have access to a small drill press but I've not done this kind of > drilling/mounting before, and I'd really like to do a neat job of it. No > rough gouged holes. Advice and suggestions regarding tools (dills, bits, > etc) and techniques for drilling the round switch holes and rectangular > gauge holes is most appreciated. > > Thanks, > Mike > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186861#186861 > >


    Message 5


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 03:05:09 PM PST US
    Subject: EIS and Vans Fuel Gauge
    From: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
    Ed, Check with Sandy at GRT and she will tell you how to use the Van's float senders and the EIS system together Jim Nelson N15JN Pink slip in hand ____________________________________________________________ Bad web design can hurt your business! Click to hire a professional http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nBTZZbfzXIirhyPNndIJSGKjAJ5VH6nh1iD3MKMimzMEiC1/


    Message 6


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 03:09:16 PM PST US
    From: "Ron Shannon" <rshannon@CRUZCOM.COM>
    Subject: Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?
    A few other details may be worth mentioning. Once I had the pilot holes, I used a piece of 3/4" plywood under the metal. The unibit will cut a big hole in it too, of course. When doing subsequent holes, like up the plywood hole so that the sides of it don't "push" the work to one side, even when clamped. After drilling your pilot holes, bring the unibit in the press right down onto the pilot hole, make sure it's centered, and hold it there with a little pressure while you clamp. That will minimize the possibility of the clamps displacing the work a smidgen. You can see a shot of the bulk of the switch holes I cut this way at http://n254mr.com/node/229. That panel is 8" high. Ron On Sun, Jun 8, 2008 at 2:57 PM, Ron Shannon <rshannon@cruzcom.com> wrote: > Mike, > > A "unibit" or "step drill" does a nice job in a drill press. I used one for > a dozen switch holes that came out very nice. Start by drilling a 1/8-3/32" > pilot hole. Be sure to clamp the work so it doesn't wander. Use a relatively > slow speed. The unibit makes a very clean cut. > > Ron


    Message 7


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 03:20:14 PM PST US
    From: "Ron Shannon" <rshannon@CRUZCOM.COM>
    Subject: Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?
    On Sun, Jun 8, 2008 at 2:59 PM, Robert Feldtman <bobf@feldtman.com> wrote: > a "punch" is better - they are on sale at Harbour freight > > bobf > A good punch is great if you can get one with a deep enough throat to reach the locations on your panel and if it will punch a 15/32" hole spec'd for the S700 series switches. The one I got from HF (#91510) has a 3-1/4" throat which wouldn't reach some of the holes in other parts of my layout and only goes up to a 7/16" hole. Ron


    Message 8


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 03:53:03 PM PST US
    From: "earl_schroeder@juno.com" <earl_schroeder@juno.com>
    Subject: Re: HF42292 'charger'
    Hi Bob, Notice on the last picture with the heat sink removed there is an area labeled VR1. The earlier versions had a pot there that one could adjust for the optimum maintainer voltage. [13.8 is what I use] The circuit board is still drilled for a pot on the ones I've purchased recently. I purchased a handful of 100 pots that I install to maintain that flexibility. I have a dozen or so of the earlier versions and I'd guess 80% had to be touched up..some were low some were high. I've had 2-3 fail and at least two of them failed at the transformer to 110VAC plug connection. I was able to repair those. One failed for some other reason and I just kept it for parts. Further investigation wasn't worth the $time$. I fully agree that they are OK for long term storage but not charging. Thanks for taking the time to run the tests! Earl -- "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net> wrote: Before shipping this one off to the "happy charger grounds in the sky", I opened it up to see how "smart" it really was. Pictures are posted at: http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/HF_Chargers/HF42292_0.jpg http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/HF_Chargers/HF42292_1.jpg http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/HF_Chargers/HF42292_2.jpg As external examination of performance suggested, this is a current limited, voltage limited power supply set for 13.4 volts at about 0.6 amps. Fine for long term storage of charged batteries but not up to the task of topping off a dead battery. Bob . . .


    Message 9


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 05:29:43 PM PST US
    Subject: Ray Allen Position Indicators
    From: "txpilot" <djg7@comcast.net>
    I'm trying to wire an RP2 Position indicator to a SPAL Linear Actuator as shown here: http://www.rayallencompany.com/products/indsens.html http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID 08060818580918&item=5-1577-2&catname=electric I'm trying to figure out the wiring between the indicator (orange, green and blue wires) and the linear actuator's built-in potentiometer (purple, white and yellow wires). I'm hoping I could just figure out which wire represents what, connect appropriately, and adjust the indicator's sensitivity and/or add resistors where necessary. How could I be checking this? Is it as simple as measuring resistance between wires in different positions? Any help is appreciated! Thanks, Dan Ginty Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186895#186895


    Message 10


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 05:52:18 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?
    At 02:44 PM 6/8/2008 -0700, you wrote: > >Hi AeroElectricteers, > >I am close to actually mounting the switches (99% B&C Carling switches) >and finalizing the wiring in my Z-19 system. I was looking for >recommendations about how to drill clean, neat holes for switches in my >light aluminum boxes. > >Because of panel space I will need to mount several switches, along with >rectangular digital volt and ammeter gauges, on the dash above the >fiberglass panel, in a long aluminum box. The box I have is about >12"x3"x3" , that comes in two parts, separates easily with screws removed. >I plan to mount the box base on top of the dash, then mount the switches >into the other half that mates together. > >I have access to a small drill press but I've not done this kind of >drilling/mounting before, and I'd really like to do a neat job of it. No >rough gouged holes. Advice and suggestions regarding tools (dills, bits, >etc) and techniques for drilling the round switch holes and rectangular >gauge holes is most appreciated. Getting nice round holes in sheet metal used to be a bit problematic. The standard twist drill tends to "rip" through the final cuts leaving a somewhat jagged and less than round hole in thin materials. Years ago, the tool of choice was a thing called a spot-facer. Intended for preparing the surface around a bolt hole, it also served as a very well behaved "mill" for shaving the surface around a pilot hole and if use long enough, produced a clean cut hole in thin materials. Here's a link for a 15/32" diameter cutter that's appropriate to mounting toggle switches. http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/36261/nm/4_Flute_Aircraft_Counterbores_Spot_Facers There's no pilot shown, that's a separate item. In this case, the pilot can be replaced with a 1/8" drill bit (grind a flat on the drill for the setscrew to grip). This makes for a one-piece pilot drill/hole-cutter. Another option are a thing call step-drills. Harbor freight sells these . . . http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Drilling/HF91616_Step_Drills.jpg Really handy in that a few "drills" will cut many sizes of hole. The single-flute cut is not prone to chatter. The down side of these critters is the need to pay attention. As you "thunk"through each step, make sure you don't thunk one or more times too many . . . it's REALLY hard to make those oversized holes get smaller. Sounds like you're working with a electronics project box. These tend to be bent of soft aluminum that is but one step above peanut butter for hardness. You may find that both the tools cited above leave less than a clean, square-edged hole. If you can drill from both sides, start on the back and go half-way through, then come around to the front to finish the hole. Finally, the super clean way to make both round and square holes is with a punch. See: http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Drilling/Greenlee_Punches.JPG These are not available in as many sizes as drills but they do a better job on bigger holes than do drills and you can get square or rectangular punches too. However, they're not cheap. For a one-shot project, start your square holes with as large a round hole as practical and finish with a nibbler and/or files. http://www.directron.com/nibbletool.html Some of the hog-out work that precedes fine filing to the finish can be aided by a Dremel tool with a router bit in it. http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Drilling/Dremmel_300.jpg http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Drilling/8th_Inch_Router.jpg This is not a job for one of those battery powered butter slicers you find in the hobby shops. Get a boss-hogg Dremmel 300 or equal. Finally, practice all these techniques on a piece of scrap. You'd be surprised how easy it is to coin new curse words when the next to the last hole you need to cut is suddenly too big. Bob . . .


    Message 11


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 08:53:39 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum?
    From: "mikef" <mikefapex@gmail.com>
    Gentlemen, Thank you one and all for the tool suggestions and techniques. I've ordered a couple of these and will practice on some scrap pieces to see which give the best result. Fly Safe, Mike Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186919#186919




    Other Matronics Email List Services

  • Post A New Message
  •   aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
  • UN/SUBSCRIBE
  •   http://www.matronics.com/subscription
  • List FAQ
  •   http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm
  • Web Forum Interface To Lists
  •   http://forums.matronics.com
  • Matronics List Wiki
  •   http://wiki.matronics.com
  • 7-Day List Browse
  •   http://www.matronics.com/browse/aeroelectric-list
  • Browse AeroElectric-List Digests
  •   http://www.matronics.com/digest/aeroelectric-list
  • Browse Other Lists
  •   http://www.matronics.com/browse
  • Live Online Chat!
  •   http://www.matronics.com/chat
  • Archive Downloading
  •   http://www.matronics.com/archives
  • Photo Share
  •   http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
  • Other Email Lists
  •   http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
  • Contributions
  •   http://www.matronics.com/contribution

    These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.

    -- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --