Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:10 PM - HF42292 'charger' (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 02:48 PM - Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? (mikef)
3. 03:01 PM - Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? (Ron Shannon)
4. 03:02 PM - Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? (Robert Feldtman)
5. 03:05 PM - EIS and Vans Fuel Gauge (James H Nelson)
6. 03:09 PM - Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? (Ron Shannon)
7. 03:20 PM - Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? (Ron Shannon)
8. 03:53 PM - Re: HF42292 'charger' (earl_schroeder@juno.com)
9. 05:29 PM - Ray Allen Position Indicators (txpilot)
10. 05:52 PM - Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 08:53 PM - Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? (mikef)
Message 1
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Subject: | HF42292 'charger' |
Before shipping this one off to the "happy charger
grounds in the sky", I opened it up to see how "smart"
it really was.
Pictures are posted at:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/HF_Chargers/HF42292_0.jpg
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/HF_Chargers/HF42292_1.jpg
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/HF_Chargers/HF42292_2.jpg
As external examination of performance suggested, this is a current
limited, voltage limited power supply set for 13.4 volts at about 0.6
amps.
Fine for long term storage of charged batteries but not up to the
task of topping off a dead battery.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 2
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Subject: | Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? |
Hi AeroElectricteers,
I am close to actually mounting the switches (99% B&C Carling switches) and finalizing
the wiring in my Z-19 system. I was looking for recommendations about
how to drill clean, neat holes for switches in my light aluminum boxes.
Because of panel space I will need to mount several switches, along with rectangular
digital volt and ammeter gauges, on the dash above the fiberglass panel,
in a long aluminum box. The box I have is about 12"x3"x3" , that comes in two
parts, separates easily with screws removed. I plan to mount the box base on
top of the dash, then mount the switches into the other half that mates together.
I have access to a small drill press but I've not done this kind of drilling/mounting
before, and I'd really like to do a neat job of it. No rough gouged holes.
Advice and suggestions regarding tools (dills, bits, etc) and techniques
for drilling the round switch holes and rectangular gauge holes is most appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186861#186861
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? |
Mike,
A "unibit" or "step drill" does a nice job in a drill press. I used one for
a dozen switch holes that came out very nice. Start by drilling a 1/8-3/32"
pilot hole. Be sure to clamp the work so it doesn't wander. Use a relatively
slow speed. The unibit makes a very clean cut.
Ron
On Sun, Jun 8, 2008 at 2:44 PM, mikef <mikefapex@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hi AeroElectricteers,
>
> I am close to actually mounting the switches (99% B&C Carling switches) and
> finalizing the wiring in my Z-19 system. I was looking for recommendations
> about how to drill clean, neat holes for switches in my light aluminum
> boxes.
>
> Because of panel space I will need to mount several switches, along with
> rectangular digital volt and ammeter gauges, on the dash above the
> fiberglass panel, in a long aluminum box. The box I have is about 12"x3"x3"
> , that comes in two parts, separates easily with screws removed. I plan to
> mount the box base on top of the dash, then mount the switches into the
> other half that mates together.
>
> I have access to a small drill press but I've not done this kind of
> drilling/mounting before, and I'd really like to do a neat job of it. No
> rough gouged holes. Advice and suggestions regarding tools (dills, bits,
> etc) and techniques for drilling the round switch holes and rectangular
> gauge holes is most appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? |
a "punch" is better - they are on sale at Harbour freight
bobf
On 6/8/08, mikef <mikefapex@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi AeroElectricteers,
>
> I am close to actually mounting the switches (99% B&C Carling switches) and
> finalizing the wiring in my Z-19 system. I was looking for recommendations
> about how to drill clean, neat holes for switches in my light aluminum
> boxes.
>
> Because of panel space I will need to mount several switches, along with
> rectangular digital volt and ammeter gauges, on the dash above the
> fiberglass panel, in a long aluminum box. The box I have is about 12"x3"x3"
> , that comes in two parts, separates easily with screws removed. I plan to
> mount the box base on top of the dash, then mount the switches into the
> other half that mates together.
>
> I have access to a small drill press but I've not done this kind of
> drilling/mounting before, and I'd really like to do a neat job of it. No
> rough gouged holes. Advice and suggestions regarding tools (dills, bits,
> etc) and techniques for drilling the round switch holes and rectangular
> gauge holes is most appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186861#186861
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | EIS and Vans Fuel Gauge |
Ed,
Check with Sandy at GRT and she will tell you how to use the
Van's float senders and the EIS system together
Jim Nelson
N15JN Pink slip in hand
____________________________________________________________
Bad web design can hurt your business! Click to hire a professional
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nBTZZbfzXIirhyPNndIJSGKjAJ5VH6nh1iD3MKMimzMEiC1/
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? |
A few other details may be worth mentioning. Once I had the pilot holes, I
used a piece of 3/4" plywood under the metal. The unibit will cut a big hole
in it too, of course. When doing subsequent holes, like up the plywood hole
so that the sides of it don't "push" the work to one side, even when
clamped. After drilling your pilot holes, bring the unibit in the press
right down onto the pilot hole, make sure it's centered, and hold it there
with a little pressure while you clamp. That will minimize the possibility
of the clamps displacing the work a smidgen.
You can see a shot of the bulk of the switch holes I cut this way at
http://n254mr.com/node/229. That panel is 8" high.
Ron
On Sun, Jun 8, 2008 at 2:57 PM, Ron Shannon <rshannon@cruzcom.com> wrote:
> Mike,
>
> A "unibit" or "step drill" does a nice job in a drill press. I used one for
> a dozen switch holes that came out very nice. Start by drilling a 1/8-3/32"
> pilot hole. Be sure to clamp the work so it doesn't wander. Use a relatively
> slow speed. The unibit makes a very clean cut.
>
> Ron
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? |
On Sun, Jun 8, 2008 at 2:59 PM, Robert Feldtman <bobf@feldtman.com> wrote:
> a "punch" is better - they are on sale at Harbour freight
>
> bobf
>
A good punch is great if you can get one with a deep enough throat to reach
the locations on your panel and if it will punch a 15/32" hole spec'd for
the S700 series switches. The one I got from HF (#91510) has a 3-1/4" throat
which wouldn't reach some of the holes in other parts of my layout and only
goes up to a 7/16" hole.
Ron
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: HF42292 'charger' |
Hi Bob,
Notice on the last picture with the heat sink removed there is an area labeled
VR1. The earlier versions had a pot there that one could adjust for the optimum
maintainer voltage. [13.8 is what I use] The circuit board is still drilled
for a pot on the ones I've purchased recently.
I purchased a handful of 100 pots that I install to maintain that flexibility.
I have a dozen or so of the earlier versions and I'd guess 80% had to be touched
up..some were low some were high.
I've had 2-3 fail and at least two of them failed at the transformer to 110VAC
plug connection. I was able to repair those. One failed for some other reason
and I just kept it for parts. Further investigation wasn't worth the $time$.
I fully agree that they are OK for long term storage but not charging.
Thanks for taking the time to run the tests! Earl
-- "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net> wrote:
Before shipping this one off to the "happy charger
grounds in the sky", I opened it up to see how "smart"
it really was.
Pictures are posted at:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/HF_Chargers/HF42292_0.jpg
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/HF_Chargers/HF42292_1.jpg
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/HF_Chargers/HF42292_2.jpg
As external examination of performance suggested, this is a current
limited, voltage limited power supply set for 13.4 volts at about 0.6
amps.
Fine for long term storage of charged batteries but not up to the
task of topping off a dead battery.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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Subject: | Ray Allen Position Indicators |
I'm trying to wire an RP2 Position indicator to a SPAL Linear Actuator as shown
here:
http://www.rayallencompany.com/products/indsens.html
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID 08060818580918&item=5-1577-2&catname=electric
I'm trying to figure out the wiring between the indicator (orange, green and blue
wires) and the linear actuator's built-in potentiometer (purple, white and
yellow wires). I'm hoping I could just figure out which wire represents what,
connect appropriately, and adjust the indicator's sensitivity and/or add resistors
where necessary.
How could I be checking this? Is it as simple as measuring resistance between
wires in different positions? Any help is appreciated!
Thanks,
Dan Ginty
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186895#186895
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? |
At 02:44 PM 6/8/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>
>Hi AeroElectricteers,
>
>I am close to actually mounting the switches (99% B&C Carling switches)
>and finalizing the wiring in my Z-19 system. I was looking for
>recommendations about how to drill clean, neat holes for switches in my
>light aluminum boxes.
>
>Because of panel space I will need to mount several switches, along with
>rectangular digital volt and ammeter gauges, on the dash above the
>fiberglass panel, in a long aluminum box. The box I have is about
>12"x3"x3" , that comes in two parts, separates easily with screws removed.
>I plan to mount the box base on top of the dash, then mount the switches
>into the other half that mates together.
>
>I have access to a small drill press but I've not done this kind of
>drilling/mounting before, and I'd really like to do a neat job of it. No
>rough gouged holes. Advice and suggestions regarding tools (dills, bits,
>etc) and techniques for drilling the round switch holes and rectangular
>gauge holes is most appreciated.
Getting nice round holes in sheet metal used to be
a bit problematic. The standard twist drill tends to
"rip" through the final cuts leaving a somewhat jagged
and less than round hole in thin materials.
Years ago, the tool of choice was a thing called a
spot-facer. Intended for preparing the surface around
a bolt hole, it also served as a very well behaved
"mill" for shaving the surface around a pilot hole
and if use long enough, produced a clean cut hole
in thin materials. Here's a link for a 15/32" diameter
cutter that's appropriate to mounting toggle switches.
http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/36261/nm/4_Flute_Aircraft_Counterbores_Spot_Facers
There's no pilot shown, that's a separate item. In this
case, the pilot can be replaced with a 1/8" drill bit
(grind a flat on the drill for the setscrew to grip).
This makes for a one-piece pilot drill/hole-cutter.
Another option are a thing call step-drills. Harbor
freight sells these . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Drilling/HF91616_Step_Drills.jpg
Really handy in that a few "drills" will cut many
sizes of hole. The single-flute cut is not prone
to chatter.
The down side of these critters is the need to pay
attention. As you "thunk"through each step, make sure
you don't thunk one or more times too many . . . it's
REALLY hard to make those oversized holes get smaller.
Sounds like you're working with a electronics project
box. These tend to be bent of soft aluminum that is but
one step above peanut butter for hardness. You may
find that both the tools cited above leave less than
a clean, square-edged hole. If you can drill from
both sides, start on the back and go half-way through,
then come around to the front to finish the hole.
Finally, the super clean way to make both round and
square holes is with a punch. See:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Drilling/Greenlee_Punches.JPG
These are not available in as many sizes as drills
but they do a better job on bigger holes than do drills
and you can get square or rectangular punches too.
However, they're not cheap. For a one-shot project,
start your square holes with as large a round hole
as practical and finish with a nibbler and/or files.
http://www.directron.com/nibbletool.html
Some of the hog-out work that precedes fine
filing to the finish can be aided by a Dremel tool
with a router bit in it.
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Drilling/Dremmel_300.jpg
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Drilling/8th_Inch_Router.jpg
This is not a job for one of those battery powered
butter slicers you find in the hobby shops. Get
a boss-hogg Dremmel 300 or equal.
Finally, practice all these techniques on a piece
of scrap. You'd be surprised how easy it is to coin
new curse words when the next to the last hole you
need to cut is suddenly too big.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Drilling Switch holes in aluminum? |
Gentlemen,
Thank you one and all for the tool suggestions and techniques. I've ordered a couple
of these and will practice on some scrap pieces to see which give the best
result.
Fly Safe,
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186919#186919
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