Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:16 AM - S811-1 B&C Starter Contactor (ianwilson2)
2. 03:34 AM - Re: S811-1 B&C Starter Contactor (Dale Ensing)
3. 04:05 AM - Grip Flap Motor Control (Andrew Butler)
4. 04:41 AM - Re: Grip Flap Motor Control (Ivor Phillips)
5. 05:19 AM - New to the list (Iberplanes IGL)
6. 07:06 AM - Re: Dimmer trick ()
7. 07:09 AM - Re: EL Lighting (ROGER & JEAN CURTIS)
8. 07:45 AM - Re: Grip Flap Motor Control (Andrew Butler)
9. 08:10 AM - Re: Dimmer trick (Matt Prather)
10. 12:19 PM - Re: AeroElectric-Battery/SD8 problem (Frank Stringham)
11. 08:14 PM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-Battery/SD8 problem (N81JG@aol.com)
Message 1
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Subject: | S811-1 B&C Starter Contactor |
I'm using the B&C Starter Contactor with my Jab 2200 and as a newbie I have what
is probably a dumb question, but I'd rather look dumb than be sorry!
On the Starter Contactor the 2 large studs aren't marked in any way. Am I therefore
safe in deducing that it doesn't matter which one I attach to the battery
input and starter motor? The third smaller stud connects to the push-to-start
button.
The more questions I ask, the more I learn and the less I need to ask!
Many thanks in advance.
Ian
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190044#190044
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: S811-1 B&C Starter Contactor |
Ian, think of the starter contactor as just a large switch that is remotely
operated by electrical power. Electrical current can flow in either
direction thru the contacts of the contactor (switch).
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "ianwilson2" <ianwilson2@hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 3:11 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: S811-1 B&C Starter Contactor
> <ianwilson2@hotmail.com>
>
> I'm using the B&C Starter Contactor with my Jab 2200 and as a newbie I
> have what is probably a dumb question, but I'd rather look dumb than be
> sorry!
>
> On the Starter Contactor the 2 large studs aren't marked in any way. Am I
> therefore safe in deducing that it doesn't matter which one I attach to
> the battery input and starter motor? The third smaller stud connects to
> the push-to-start button.
>
> The more questions I ask, the more I learn and the less I need to ask!
>
> Many thanks in advance.
>
> Ian
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190044#190044
>
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Grip Flap Motor Control |
Hello,
Can anyone give me some pointers on how I may use the trim buttons in my
Ray Allen to control my flap motor (I am not going to use the two buttons
normally used for electic aileron trim control).
I am making the assumption that the current draw of the flap motor is too
great to wire through the grip directly and that relays are the order of
the day. I just can't come up with an elegent enough wiring solution.
Best regards,
Andrew Butler
RV71700
Galway, Ireland.
Message 4
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Subject: | Grip Flap Motor Control |
Hi Andrew
If you make up a relay deck as
http://www.rayallencompany.com/RACmedia/do-it-urself1servorelays.pdf
It should work ok, Just make sure the relays can draw the max amps of
the flap motor
Regards
Ivor Phillips
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Andrew Butler
Sent: 27 June 2008 12:03
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Grip Flap Motor Control
Hello,
Can anyone give me some pointers on how I may use the trim buttons in my
Ray Allen to control my flap motor (I am not going to use the two
buttons normally used for electic aileron trim control).
I am making the assumption that the current draw of the flap motor is
too great to wire through the grip directly and that relays are the
order of the day. I just can't come up with an elegent enough wiring
solution.
Best regards,
Andrew Butler
RV71700
Galway, Ireland.
Message 5
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Hello,
I=B4m new to the list, I=B4m building a Zodiac 601 XL, I live in Barcelona
Spain. I hope I=B4ll be able to contribute to this list.
Bye!
Alberto Martin
www.iberplanes.es
Igualada - Barcelona - Spain
----------------------------------------------
Zodiac 601 XL Builder
Serial: 6-7011
Tail Kit: Finished
Wings: Not Started
Fuselage: Ordered
Engine: Jabiru 3300
Message 6
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I have another dimmer question that can be described in the same thread.
Last night I installed the B & C 1.5 A dimmer which went off as
described in the instructions.
After adding power, my panel dimmed as expected but the dimmer knob
control (rheostat) seems to have very limited variability. Turning the
knob all the way left turns off the panel lights as expected. Turning it
very slowly for the first 1/8 inch turns the lights from completely off
to everything in between and then full on. How can I modify the
sensitivity such that the dimming effect works throughout the full range
of the dimmer switch?
Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter
Laurence
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 5:25 PM
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Dimmer trick
Carlos,
Try this site.
http://www.a-and-t-labs.com/products.htm
Peter
RV9A N60PL
________________________________
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Carlos Trigo
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 8:08 AM
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dimmer trick
Listers
I completed my instrument lights circuit, in which I have a
dimmer, and all works OK.
Nevertheless, when I tested it at night (still at my garage) I
noticed that there are a couple of instruments (e.g. the Trutrak ADI)
which have a brighter light than the others, and obviously the single
dimmer, operating all lights simultaneously, doesn't get me an optimal
dimming position for all lights at the same time.
Is there a trick to obtain similar brightness in all lights?
Can that be achieved by simply installing resistors in the
brighter ones?
Carlos
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 7
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|
Alan,
The twisting of the pair of wires tends to cancel the hmmmmmmmmmm, so you
should be OK with that.
Keep in mind that it is usually best to follow the manufacturer's
recommendation.
Roger
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan K.
Adamson
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 9:23 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: EL Lighting
<aadamson@highrf.com>
Ok, so the docs on the UMA EL lighting says to twist the wires on the AC
wiring for 8 turns per inch... Ok, but has anyone used shielded wire?
I'm wondering if there is an advantage to using a 2 conductor shielded
tefzel wire (which is twisted internally) and then just ground the shield at
one end. Will it be any better or worse than just twisting the 2 wires -
unshielded that UMA gives you?
For those that don't know, the EL lights use AC (around 100V) to cause the
lights to glow, it's low current, but AC and I'd just as soon limit any
source for Hmmmmmmmm...
Thots?
Alan
Message 8
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Subject: | Grip Flap Motor Control |
The perfect nudge in the right direction. Thanks Ivor. Andrew.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ivor Phillips"
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Grip Flap Motor Control
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 12:38:33 +0100
Hi Andrew
If you make up a relay deck as
http://www.rayallencompany.com/RACmedia/do-it-urself1servorelays.pdf
It should work ok, Just make sure the relays can draw the max amps of
the flap motor
Regards
Ivor Phillips
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Andrew Butler
Sent: 27 June 2008 12:03
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Grip Flap Motor Control
Hello,
Can anyone give me some pointers on how I may use the trim buttons in
my Ray Allen to control my flap motor (I am not going to use the two
buttons normally used for electic aileron trim control).
I am making the assumption that the current draw of the flap motor is
too great to wire through the grip directly and that relays are the
order of the day. I just can't come up with an elegent enough wiring
solution.
Best regards,
Andrew Butler
RV71700
Galway, Ireland.
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Message 9
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|
Sounds like the devices on the bus are drawing a smaller amount of current
than the dimmer circuit was intended to control. If you're only driving
LED's and the dimmer circuit was designed to support incandescent bulbs, I
could see this happening.
It could be something as simple as being at the end of the range for the
potentiometer (the thing the knob is controlling) in the dimmer circuit.
If this is the case, you might swap the pot for one with a more
appropriate range (lower peak resistance). Or possibly you can put a
bypass resistor across the pot - while still getting adequately dark. Or,
swap out some of those super efficient LED's for a couple of hog-heater
light bulbs. :)
You could talk with B&C about what to do - product support.. It would be
a bit surprising if they haven't run into this before.
Regards,
Matt-
> I have another dimmer question that can be described in the same thread.
> Last night I installed the B & C 1.5 A dimmer which went off as
> described in the instructions.
>
> After adding power, my panel dimmed as expected but the dimmer knob
> control (rheostat) seems to have very limited variability. Turning the
> knob all the way left turns off the panel lights as expected. Turning it
> very slowly for the first 1/8 inch turns the lights from completely off
> to everything in between and then full on. How can I modify the
> sensitivity such that the dimming effect works throughout the full range
> of the dimmer switch?
>
> Glenn
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter
> Laurence
> Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 5:25 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Dimmer trick
>
>
> Carlos,
>
>
> Try this site.
>
>
> http://www.a-and-t-labs.com/products.htm
>
>
> Peter
>
> RV9A N60PL
>
>
> ________________________________
>
>
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Carlos Trigo
> Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 8:08 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dimmer trick
>
>
> Listers
>
>
> I completed my instrument lights circuit, in which I have a
> dimmer, and all works OK.
>
> Nevertheless, when I tested it at night (still at my garage) I
> noticed that there are a couple of instruments (e.g. the Trutrak ADI)
> which have a brighter light than the others, and obviously the single
> dimmer, operating all lights simultaneously, doesn't get me an optimal
> dimming position for all lights at the same time.
>
>
> Is there a trick to obtain similar brightness in all lights?
>
> Can that be achieved by simply installing resistors in the
> brighter ones?
>
>
> Carlos
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | RE: AeroElectric-Battery/SD8 problem |
Hi to All
Last week I asked a question about my Odyessey 680 battery not being able t
o keep a charge. I am using the Z13/8 with SD8 self excitation. I thought I
had checked all the suspects and eliminated them one by one as the problem
. So as a final step I figured the battery itself was bad. So I recharged a
nd disconnected the ground from the firewall. Let it set and wouldn't ya kn
ow it. It maintained a charge. So back to the drawing board. In checking al
l the possible problems again I noted that that SD8 self excitation may be
the problem. I have connected the ground back to the battery and the firewa
ll. Will wait to see if it draws down again.
With that said who is using the SD8 with self excitation as pre Z25. And if
so any problems.......
Being tech. challenged in this stuff I am not quite sure how to check the S
D8 wiring to find the problem if in fact it is. If the battery discharges w
ith the SD8 as configured then maybe it is the problem. I will recharge the
battery and disconnect the SD8 from the battery contactor and see what hap
pens. If the battery maintains charge with the SD8 removed I will know that
the SD8 is the problem if not....................????????
Frank @ 1L8...RV7A...last 945 details......................................
....
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: RE: AeroElectric-Battery/SD8 problem |
I have and SD8 alternater in my VariEze and found early on that the battery
was slowly discharged through the small regulator hooked to the SD8. I put a
switch in the circuit to turn on the alternater only after the engine is
running. That fixed the problem.
John Greaves
VariEze N81JG
Redding, CA
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
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