AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Mon 07/28/08


Total Messages Posted: 10



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:39 AM - Re: BnC Continuous Duty Contactor 12 v (Jeffrey W. Skiba)
     2. 06:46 AM - Re: Connectors for trim servos? (Eric M. Jones)
     3. 07:22 AM - Re: Z-19/RB Question (mikef)
     4. 07:37 AM - Re: BnC Continuous Duty Contactor 12 v (Eric M. Jones)
     5. 11:22 AM - Grounding of com antenna on Tube and Fabric airframe (darinh)
     6. 12:15 PM - RV6-A for sale website (Jim)
     7. 02:09 PM - Re: Trim noise in Audio speaker (Eric M. Jones)
     8. 04:37 PM - Re: Re: BnC Continuous Duty Contactor 12 v (MLWynn@aol.com)
     9. 05:02 PM - Re: Success! (Jon Finley)
    10. 08:43 PM - Re: Re: BnC Continuous Duty Contactor 12 v (Jeffrey W. Skiba)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:39:01 AM PST US
    From: "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba@icosa.net>
    Subject: BnC Continuous Duty Contactor 12 v
    See: http://aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Contactors/Stancor-WhiteRogers/Stancor_70- Series.pdf The S701-1 contactor is a Stancor 70-902. It's rated for 80 amps continuous. But like all switches, relays and contactors, the ratings assume that you're going to SWITCH those loads. In the case of a battery conactor, loads seldom exceed tens of amps when the battery master is turned on. By the time the starter is engaged, the battery contactor is closed and stable. An alrady closed switch will carry several times its rated current for short periods of time (like cranking an engine) without serious degradation of service life. How are you using it that its ratings are a concern? I am using it as a battery contactor but with a Very High out alternator, 200amps ..... So I am thinking I need to find a bigger contactor ? or my other thought - guess was maybe to run TWO Stancor 70-902 contactors in parallel ? with the extra wires also... but concern here is that something I haven't thought of will smoke something if both are not closed ? Maybe I am overlooking a simple cheaper solution....


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:46:42 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Connectors for trim servos?
    From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
    Those Ray Allen trim boxes (they are not servos), have a number of deficiencies--the wires being one of them. Though many people use the D-subs, I prefer Molex locking C-Grid connectors that are used in computers. I also suggest opening the trim box and mounting the connector header on the wall. This will get rid of the maximum amount of the teeny wires. While you are screwing around in the box's innards--may I suggest a few improvements to their trim box? 1) To prevent dirt entering the box, the threaded rod extension can be covered with a little ballpoint pen cap or similar. Likewise the square actuator rod bottom hollow can be filled and a brush wiper installed. 2) Noise suppressor capacitors are easy to add. One .01 uF ceramic across the motor brushes and one 0.1 uF ceramic from each brush to ground (which you might want to add) is a standard approach. Keep the leads critically short. 3) Sealing the cover lid with a little goo or tape wouldn't hurt. If you want to convert the Ray Allen boxes to true servos, or see a schematic of what is inside the box, see my website. "Democracy is the theory that the common people know what they want and deserve to get it good and hard." -- H. L. Mencken -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones@charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195337#195337


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:22:35 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Z-19/RB Question
    From: "mikef" <mikefapex@gmail.com>
    Bob, Understood, that EBus switch is ALTERNATE path to powering the EBus. And as you said, turn it on, check ATIS are all good preflight procedures to test this path. I just wanted to confirm that once you are started and the alternator is running smoothly, it would do no harm to leave the EBus switch turned on (closed) during normal operations. Thanks, Mike Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195343#195343


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:37:25 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: BnC Continuous Duty Contactor 12 v
    From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
    I have railed against these Type-70 contactors for years. But they are almost obsolete. Most electronics distributors have dropped them from their lines. Problems-- 1) Low Temperature rating. Only 122F max. You could land at Furnace Creek in Death Valley in May and take off in October. Maybe. This is primarily due to the Nylon innards. This is a drop-dead reason to avoid the part. 2) Not sealed. Not dust proof, or fuel proof. 3) Low interrupt capacity. 4) High hold current---16 ohm coil. Almost one amp. 5) Low hold force. The specifications call for specific orientation. 2G rating? 6) Wildly wrong for B&C to use coil suppression diodes on these. This causes short lifetimes on the B&C parts. 7) Not designed to open against voltages above 36 volts. (So forget the B-lead applications) See: www.stancor.com There are better ways to go. Omron's line of automotive contactors (CHEAP) and Kilovac's EV200 series, Blue Sea 9012, Gigavac's GX-11. Expensive but preferred. Can you use them? Sure. Should you use them?....not on my bird, Bubela. Better yet, avoid all contactors and use manual switches if you can. "Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored." ---Aldous Huxley -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones@charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195345#195345


    Message 5


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    Time: 11:22:37 AM PST US
    Subject: Grounding of com antenna on Tube and Fabric airframe
    From: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
    I have a Kitfox 7 that I just had inspected (I have 1 hour on it so far) and am having issues with my transmission and reception quality and effectiveness. Here is a brief description of my problem: When at the airport (taxing, and in the pattern) my radio seems to work fine with the exception of an intermittent static blip every two seconds or so. As I get farther out, the intermittent blip becomes more pronounced to the point that my transmission and reception is horrible (transmission is worse than reception though by a long shot). Basically, my communications become unintelligible around 4-5 miles out. I originally didn't have a ground plane other than the mounting plate for the antenna (which the manual says is fine) so I added one on the advice of a couple people and the problem has not changed a bit. Here is a question: Does the antenna itself have to be electrically bonded to the airframe? I think the answer is yes and according to the maker of my antenna, mine is through the mounting hardware. However, the builder's manual says to remove any fabric and grind down the powder coating under the antenna to get a good bond. Would this be my problem? Would the issues I have described be symptomatic of a poorly grounded antenna? I know just enough about electronics to be dangerous so any help and advice would be greatly appreciated. I guess I should state that I have checked my antenna cable for continuity and it all checks out and the shielding is completely isolated. Also, my radio is clear of all other noise such as engine, alternator, etc. Thanks for the help. -------- Darin Hawkes Series 7 (Phase 1 - Flight Testing) 914 Turbo Kaysville, Utah Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195379#195379


    Message 6


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    Time: 12:15:58 PM PST US
    From: "Jim" <jjewell@telus.net>
    Subject: RV6-A for sale website
    My RV6-A is now actively being advertised for sale, see : http://www3.telus.net/public/a6a36537/ TT 45 Hr. Aero Sport-Power O-360-A1A 50 Hr. Hartzell C/S prop -50 Hr. Oil filter Aeroelectric connection Z-11 based wiring 1 Slick mag 1 electronic ign. 55 Amp. Nippon Denzo alternator Whelen wingtip strobes Wingtip landing lights with wigwags Automotive geared starter with extra new spare starter Navaid wing leveler (accepts handheld GPS waypoints) Altrack Altitude hold Dynon EFIS D10-A plus internal battery, OAT probe and remote compass module Analog, airspeed, altitude,fuel gauges Sirs compass Rocky mountain Instruments uMonitor & uEncoder also with remote compass module SL-40 com - SL-70 Xponder PM-3000 stereo intercom Electric flaps Elevator and aileron trims on left stick Sliding canopy Professionally upholstered Conforfoam seats Removable control panel with removable instrument section. Custom built aluminium floors. Nose wheel fork mod done. Professionally painted yellow (very nicely visible), add decor (stripes etc.) per taste Many painstaking hours spent on rigging, fit and finish. First annual done July 10 2008. Asking $99000.00 The website is; http://www3.telus.net/public/a6a36537/ If you are interested in further information contact. Jim Jewell in Kelowna B.C. jjewell @ telus.net Ph- (250) 861-8706 Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (4.0.0.26 - 10.100.007). http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/


    Message 7


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    Time: 02:09:56 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Trim noise in Audio speaker
    From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
    Paul M. reminds me that the capacitors across the brushes also extend the lifetime of the brushes. If the noise appeared recently, it might be a sign that the motor brushes are worn out. Replacing the motor or brushes should be easier than it is. And determining whether or not this is so should also be easier than it is.... But it isn't. "Inventor: A person who makes an ingenious arrangement of wheels, levers and springs, and believes it civilization." --Ambrose Bierce -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones@charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195411#195411


    Message 8


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    Time: 04:37:26 PM PST US
    From: MLWynn@aol.com
    Subject: Re: BnC Continuous Duty Contactor 12 v
    The below is entirely new to me. Could someone with more experience and knowledge than me (that would be almost anyone, but especially Mr. Nuckolls) comment on it? Regards, Michael Wynn RV 8 FWF San Ramon, CA In a message dated 7/28/2008 7:39:15 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, emjones@charter.net writes: railed against these Type-70 contactors for years. But they are almost obsolete. Most electronics distributors have dropped them from their lines. Problems-- 1) Low Temperature rating. Only 122F max. You could land at Furnace Creek in Death Valley in May and take off in October. Maybe. This is primarily due to the Nylon innards. This is a drop-dead reason to avoid the part. 2) Not sealed. Not dust proof, or fuel proof. 3) Low interrupt capacity. 4) High hold current---16 ohm coil. Almost one amp. 5) Low hold force. The specifications call for specific orientation. 2G rating? 6) Wildly wrong for B&C to use coil suppression diodes on these. This causes short lifetimes on the B&C parts. 7) Not designed to open against voltages above 36 volts. (So forget the B-lead applications) See: www.stancor.com There are better ways to go. Omron's line of automotive contactors (CHEAP) and Kilovac's EV200 series, Blue Sea 9012, Gigavac's GX-11. Expensive but preferred. Can you use them? Sure. Should you use them?....not on my bird, Bubela. Better yet, avoid all contactors and use manual switches if you can. "Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored." ---Aldous Huxley **************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for FanHouse Fantasy Football today. (http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)


    Message 9


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    Time: 05:02:36 PM PST US
    From: "Jon Finley" <jon@finleyweb.net>
    Subject: Success!
    Congratulations Rick! Sounds like you are at the point of having many exciting firsts! Be safe and enjoy the journey. Jon -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Girard Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 7:57 AM To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com Subject: AeroElectric-List: Success! This last week, with trembling hands and fire extinguisher close at hand, I connected the battery to my Kolb Mk III's new electrical system. I used the Z -17 schematic virtually verbatim. I did put in a SPST key switch between the fuse panel and the starter solenoid, but that's about all I deviated from the plan you laid down. To my delight, and relief, all the smoke remained in the wires and everything works. I realize that my system is bare bones simple compared to all of you glass panel folks out there, but this was my first attempt at wiring up an airplane from scratch. Thanks, Bob. Rick Girard Kolb Mk III, returning to the air this week Yippee!


    Message 10


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    Time: 08:43:14 PM PST US
    From: "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba@icosa.net>
    Subject: Re: BnC Continuous Duty Contactor 12 v
    I looked at some of those below and found this in the process: http://www.trombetta.com/cm/pdfs/defender-family.pdf Anybody use one of these? Looks like they can be had for fairly cheap and have some type of TVS (Transient Volt Suppression) built in! Looks like it's a little heavier than some of the more expensive ones, so I guess that's the trade off for cost. Thoughts? Jeff. <emjones@charter.net> I have railed against these Type-70 contactors for years. But they are almost obsolete. Most electronics distributors have dropped them from their lines. Problems-- 1) Low Temperature rating. Only 122F max. You could land at Furnace Creek in Death Valley in May and take off in October. Maybe. This is primarily due to the Nylon innards. This is a drop-dead reason to avoid the part. 2) Not sealed. Not dust proof, or fuel proof. 3) Low interrupt capacity. 4) High hold current---16 ohm coil. Almost one amp. 5) Low hold force. The specifications call for specific orientation. 2G rating? 6) Wildly wrong for B&C to use coil suppression diodes on these. This causes short lifetimes on the B&C parts. 7) Not designed to open against voltages above 36 volts. (So forget the B-lead applications) See: www.stancor.com There are better ways to go. Omron's line of automotive contactors (CHEAP) and Kilovac's EV200 series, Blue Sea 9012, Gigavac's GX-11. Expensive but preferred. Can you use them? Sure. Should you use them?....not on my bird, Bubela. Better yet, avoid all contactors and use manual switches if you can.




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