Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:39 AM - Re: BnC Continuous Duty Contactor 12 v (Jeffrey W. Skiba)
2. 06:46 AM - Re: Connectors for trim servos? (Eric M. Jones)
3. 07:22 AM - Re: Z-19/RB Question (mikef)
4. 07:37 AM - Re: BnC Continuous Duty Contactor 12 v (Eric M. Jones)
5. 11:22 AM - Grounding of com antenna on Tube and Fabric airframe (darinh)
6. 12:15 PM - RV6-A for sale website (Jim)
7. 02:09 PM - Re: Trim noise in Audio speaker (Eric M. Jones)
8. 04:37 PM - Re: Re: BnC Continuous Duty Contactor 12 v (MLWynn@aol.com)
9. 05:02 PM - Re: Success! (Jon Finley)
10. 08:43 PM - Re: Re: BnC Continuous Duty Contactor 12 v (Jeffrey W. Skiba)
Message 1
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Subject: | BnC Continuous Duty Contactor 12 v |
See:
http://aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Contactors/Stancor-WhiteRogers/Stancor_70-
Series.pdf
The S701-1 contactor is a Stancor 70-902. It's rated for
80 amps continuous. But like all switches, relays and
contactors, the ratings assume that you're going to SWITCH
those loads. In the case of a battery conactor, loads seldom
exceed tens of amps when the battery master is turned on.
By the time the starter is engaged, the battery contactor
is closed and stable. An alrady closed switch will carry
several times its rated current for short periods of time
(like cranking an engine) without serious degradation of
service life.
How are you using it that its ratings are a concern?
I am using it as a battery contactor but with a Very High out alternator,
200amps ..... So I am thinking I need to find a bigger contactor ? or my
other thought - guess was maybe to run TWO Stancor 70-902 contactors in
parallel ? with the extra wires also... but concern here is that something I
haven't thought of will smoke something if both are not closed ?
Maybe I am overlooking a simple cheaper solution....
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Subject: | Re: Connectors for trim servos? |
Those Ray Allen trim boxes (they are not servos), have a number of deficiencies--the
wires being one of them.
Though many people use the D-subs, I prefer Molex locking C-Grid connectors that
are used in computers. I also suggest opening the trim box and mounting the
connector header on the wall. This will get rid of the maximum amount of the teeny
wires.
While you are screwing around in the box's innards--may I suggest a few improvements
to their trim box?
1) To prevent dirt entering the box, the threaded rod extension can be covered
with a little ballpoint pen cap or similar. Likewise the square actuator rod bottom
hollow can be filled and a brush wiper installed.
2) Noise suppressor capacitors are easy to add. One .01 uF ceramic across the motor
brushes and one 0.1 uF ceramic from each brush to ground (which you might
want to add) is a standard approach. Keep the leads critically short.
3) Sealing the cover lid with a little goo or tape wouldn't hurt.
If you want to convert the Ray Allen boxes to true servos, or see a schematic of
what is inside the box, see my website.
"Democracy is the theory that the common people know what they want and deserve
to get it good and hard." -- H. L. Mencken
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195337#195337
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Subject: | Re: Z-19/RB Question |
Bob,
Understood, that EBus switch is ALTERNATE path to powering the EBus. And as you
said, turn it on, check ATIS are all good preflight procedures to test this path.
I just wanted to confirm that once you are started and the alternator is running
smoothly, it would do no harm to leave the EBus switch turned on (closed) during
normal operations.
Thanks,
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195343#195343
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Subject: | Re: BnC Continuous Duty Contactor 12 v |
I have railed against these Type-70 contactors for years. But they are almost obsolete.
Most electronics distributors have dropped them from their lines.
Problems--
1) Low Temperature rating. Only 122F max. You could land at Furnace Creek in Death
Valley in May and take off in October. Maybe. This is primarily due to the
Nylon innards. This is a drop-dead reason to avoid the part.
2) Not sealed. Not dust proof, or fuel proof.
3) Low interrupt capacity.
4) High hold current---16 ohm coil. Almost one amp.
5) Low hold force. The specifications call for specific orientation. 2G rating?
6) Wildly wrong for B&C to use coil suppression diodes on these. This causes short
lifetimes on the B&C parts.
7) Not designed to open against voltages above 36 volts. (So forget the B-lead
applications)
See: www.stancor.com
There are better ways to go. Omron's line of automotive contactors (CHEAP) and
Kilovac's EV200 series, Blue Sea 9012, Gigavac's GX-11. Expensive but preferred.
Can you use them? Sure. Should you use them?....not on my bird, Bubela.
Better yet, avoid all contactors and use manual switches if you can.
"Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored."
---Aldous Huxley
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195345#195345
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Subject: | Grounding of com antenna on Tube and Fabric airframe |
I have a Kitfox 7 that I just had inspected (I have 1 hour on it so far) and am
having issues with my transmission and reception quality and effectiveness.
Here is a brief description of my problem:
When at the airport (taxing, and in the pattern) my radio seems to work fine with
the exception of an intermittent static blip every two seconds or so. As I
get farther out, the intermittent blip becomes more pronounced to the point that
my transmission and reception is horrible (transmission is worse than reception
though by a long shot). Basically, my communications become unintelligible
around 4-5 miles out. I originally didn't have a ground plane other than
the mounting plate for the antenna (which the manual says is fine) so I added
one on the advice of a couple people and the problem has not changed a bit.
Here is a question: Does the antenna itself have to be electrically bonded to
the airframe? I think the answer is yes and according to the maker of my antenna,
mine is through the mounting hardware. However, the builder's manual says
to remove any fabric and grind down the powder coating under the antenna to
get a good bond. Would this be my problem? Would the issues I have described
be symptomatic of a poorly grounded antenna? I know just enough about electronics
to be dangerous so any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.
I guess I should state that I have checked my antenna cable for continuity and
it all checks out and the shielding is completely isolated. Also, my radio is
clear of all other noise such as engine, alternator, etc.
Thanks for the help.
--------
Darin Hawkes
Series 7 (Phase 1 - Flight Testing)
914 Turbo
Kaysville, Utah
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195379#195379
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Subject: | RV6-A for sale website |
My RV6-A is now actively being advertised for sale, see :
http://www3.telus.net/public/a6a36537/
TT 45 Hr.
Aero Sport-Power O-360-A1A 50 Hr.
Hartzell C/S prop -50 Hr.
Oil filter
Aeroelectric connection Z-11 based wiring
1 Slick mag 1 electronic ign.
55 Amp. Nippon Denzo alternator
Whelen wingtip strobes
Wingtip landing lights with wigwags
Automotive geared starter with extra new spare starter
Navaid wing leveler (accepts handheld GPS waypoints)
Altrack Altitude hold
Dynon EFIS D10-A plus internal battery, OAT probe and remote compass
module
Analog, airspeed, altitude,fuel gauges
Sirs compass
Rocky mountain Instruments uMonitor & uEncoder also with remote compass
module
SL-40 com - SL-70 Xponder
PM-3000 stereo intercom
Electric flaps
Elevator and aileron trims on left stick
Sliding canopy
Professionally upholstered Conforfoam seats
Removable control panel with removable instrument section.
Custom built aluminium floors.
Nose wheel fork mod done.
Professionally painted yellow (very nicely visible), add decor (stripes
etc.) per taste
Many painstaking hours spent on rigging, fit and finish.
First annual done July 10 2008.
Asking $99000.00
The website is; http://www3.telus.net/public/a6a36537/ If you are
interested in further information contact.
Jim Jewell in Kelowna B.C.
jjewell @ telus.net
Ph- (250) 861-8706
Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (4.0.0.26 - 10.100.007).
http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Trim noise in Audio speaker |
Paul M. reminds me that the capacitors across the brushes also extend the lifetime
of the brushes. If the noise appeared recently, it might be a sign that the
motor brushes are worn out. Replacing the motor or brushes should be easier
than it is. And determining whether or not this is so should also be easier than
it is....
But it isn't.
"Inventor: A person who makes an ingenious arrangement of wheels,
levers and springs, and believes it civilization."
--Ambrose Bierce
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195411#195411
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: BnC Continuous Duty Contactor 12 v |
The below is entirely new to me. Could someone with more experience and
knowledge than me (that would be almost anyone, but especially Mr. Nuckolls)
comment on it?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 FWF
San Ramon, CA
In a message dated 7/28/2008 7:39:15 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
emjones@charter.net writes:
railed against these Type-70 contactors for years. But they are almost
obsolete. Most electronics distributors have dropped them from their lines.
Problems--
1) Low Temperature rating. Only 122F max. You could land at Furnace Creek in
Death Valley in May and take off in October. Maybe. This is primarily due to
the Nylon innards. This is a drop-dead reason to avoid the part.
2) Not sealed. Not dust proof, or fuel proof.
3) Low interrupt capacity.
4) High hold current---16 ohm coil. Almost one amp.
5) Low hold force. The specifications call for specific orientation. 2G
rating?
6) Wildly wrong for B&C to use coil suppression diodes on these. This causes
short lifetimes on the B&C parts.
7) Not designed to open against voltages above 36 volts. (So forget the
B-lead applications)
See: www.stancor.com
There are better ways to go. Omron's line of automotive contactors (CHEAP)
and Kilovac's EV200 series, Blue Sea 9012, Gigavac's GX-11. Expensive but
preferred.
Can you use them? Sure. Should you use them?....not on my bird, Bubela.
Better yet, avoid all contactors and use manual switches if you can.
"Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored."
---Aldous Huxley
**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)
Message 9
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Congratulations Rick!
Sounds like you are at the point of having many exciting firsts! Be safe
and enjoy the journey.
Jon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard
Girard
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 7:57 AM
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Success!
This last week, with trembling hands and fire extinguisher close at hand,
I connected the battery to my Kolb Mk III's new electrical system. I used
the Z -17 schematic virtually verbatim. I did put in a SPST key switch
between the fuse panel and the starter solenoid, but that's about all I
deviated from the plan you laid down. To my delight, and relief, all the
smoke remained in the wires and everything works. I realize that my system
is bare bones simple compared to all of you glass panel folks out there, but
this was my first attempt at wiring up an airplane from scratch.
Thanks, Bob.
Rick Girard
Kolb Mk III, returning to the air this week
Yippee!
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: BnC Continuous Duty Contactor 12 v |
I looked at some of those below and found this in the process:
http://www.trombetta.com/cm/pdfs/defender-family.pdf
Anybody use one of these?
Looks like they can be had for fairly cheap and have some type of TVS
(Transient Volt Suppression) built in!
Looks like it's a little heavier than some of the more expensive ones, so I
guess that's the trade off for cost.
Thoughts?
Jeff.
<emjones@charter.net>
I have railed against these Type-70 contactors for years. But they are
almost obsolete. Most electronics distributors have dropped them from their
lines.
Problems--
1) Low Temperature rating. Only 122F max. You could land at Furnace Creek in
Death Valley in May and take off in October. Maybe. This is primarily due to
the Nylon innards. This is a drop-dead reason to avoid the part.
2) Not sealed. Not dust proof, or fuel proof.
3) Low interrupt capacity.
4) High hold current---16 ohm coil. Almost one amp.
5) Low hold force. The specifications call for specific orientation. 2G
rating?
6) Wildly wrong for B&C to use coil suppression diodes on these. This causes
short lifetimes on the B&C parts.
7) Not designed to open against voltages above 36 volts. (So forget the
B-lead applications)
See: www.stancor.com
There are better ways to go. Omron's line of automotive contactors (CHEAP)
and Kilovac's EV200 series, Blue Sea 9012, Gigavac's GX-11. Expensive but
preferred.
Can you use them? Sure. Should you use them?....not on my bird, Bubela.
Better yet, avoid all contactors and use manual switches if you can.
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