AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Tue 08/26/08


Total Messages Posted: 14



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:29 AM - Re: Dry Cell Batteries? (Steve Stearns)
     2. 06:08 AM - Re: Dry Cell Batteries? (Robert Borger)
     3. 07:23 AM - Re: High resistance pops breaker? ("High resistance" defined) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     4. 07:36 AM - Re: Dry Cell Batteries? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     5. 09:04 AM - Re: Dry Cell Batteries? (rampil)
     6. 09:18 AM - Re: Dry Cell Batteries? (mikef)
     7. 09:50 AM - Re: Re: Dry Cell Batteries? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     8. 09:50 AM - Re: Re: Dry Cell Batteries? (Robert Borger)
     9. 09:51 AM - Re: Re: Dry Cell Batteries? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    10. 09:53 AM - Re: Re: Dry Cell Batteries? (Roger & Jean)
    11. 10:02 AM - Crimp Tool Alert (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    12. 10:08 AM - Re: Dry Cell Batteries? (mikef)
    13. 10:36 AM - Re: measuring capacitance. (Peter Laurence)
    14. 10:39 PM - Crimpers (Jeff Page)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:29:16 AM PST US
    From: Steve Stearns <steve@tomasara.com>
    Subject: Re: Dry Cell Batteries?
    I'm pretty familiar with VRLA batteries. This looked like something new but it could be that I got caught by marketing spin (I hate it when that happens...). I'll do some more homework and will report back if I find something interesting. Steve Stearns Boulder/Longmont, Colorado CSA,EAA,IAC,AOPA,PE,ARRL,BARC (but ignorant none-the-less) Restoring (since 1/07): N45FC O235 Longeze Cothern/Friling CF1 (~1000 Hrs) Flying (since 9/86): N43732 A65 Taylorcraft BC12D


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:08:24 AM PST US
    From: Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com>
    Subject: Re: Dry Cell Batteries?
    Steve, I think you are talking about the Odyssey "Dry Cell" battery series? If so, they technology they use is "absorbed glass mat." The Odyssey folks call them "Dry Cell" because if you were to break open the case, no electrolyte would run out. It is totally contained within the glass mat material. So, yes, a bit of advertising hype. But it is still an excellent battery. I have an Odyssey 680 in my (under construction) Europa. The battery is 5 years old. I've been using it to test the panel as it was installed. There were periods as long as a year and a half where the battery sat unused. It held a charge for those unused periods. After 5 years of such abuse, it still turns the engine (Rotax 914) over quite briskly. Prior to first flight, I'm troubleshooting a few last gremlins in the instrument panel and it will run the panel all day long. When it's time to replace it, I'll have no hesitation replacing it with another new Odyssey. Just my two bits. Bob Borger http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL On Tuesday, August 26, 2008, at 07:25AM, "Steve Stearns" <steve@tomasara.com> wrote: > >I'm pretty familiar with VRLA batteries. This looked like something new >but it could be that I got caught by marketing spin (I hate it when that >happens...). I'll do some more homework and will report back if I find >something interesting. > >Steve Stearns >Boulder/Longmont, Colorado >CSA,EAA,IAC,AOPA,PE,ARRL,BARC (but ignorant none-the-less) >Restoring (since 1/07): N45FC O235 Longeze Cothern/Friling CF1 (~1000 Hrs) >Flying (since 9/86): N43732 A65 Taylorcraft BC12D > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:23:36 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: High resistance pops breaker? ("High resistance"
    defined) I've received a number of private e-mails on the "high resistance" joint thing that illustrated a disconnect between the various participants in the discussion with respect to the likely characteristics of a "high resistance" joint. We've discussed on these pages (and in my seminars) the need for gas-tight joining of two materials for the purpose of making long lived connections. The easiest way (non destructive) to deduce the quality of a joint is with a device called a "Bonding Meter". We have one here that I've used many times both for my work in the OBAM aircraft community and at RAC/H-B. It's a 4-wire ohmmeter operating on principals similar to those devices described in . . . http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/grnding.pdf http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/LowOhmsAdapter_3.pdf The later article was crafted and published for the benefit of technicians working RAC/H-B products attempting to find degraded microswitches in landing gear position indicating systems without pulling the devices off the airplane. My all time favorite tool is the T477W shown here http://www.avtron.com/pdf/ate/t477w.pdf Bought one of these for myself at a Boeing surplus sale a few years back. This device uses an AC signal to stress the joint under investigation. It's MUCH easier to signal condition and measure microvolts of AC than DC which is what makes this instrument and it's close cousins so practical/ attractive. When we speak of a "low resistance" connection in "the business" . . . we're talking 500 MICRO-OHMS max. It's not possible to get these values without having pressing cleaned surfaces into intimate contact with each other . . . i.e. gas tight. When we speak of a "high resistance" joint, the bonding meter says 600 uOhms or perhaps even 1-2 milliohms. For most folk's way of thinking, this is still a dead short (no such thing really - except in a superconducting world). For those of us tasked with crafting and maintaining a gas tight joint, loss of bonding integrity is manifested in a 2x or greater increase of normal resistance readings that are still quite small in the grand scheme of things. Now, how much resistance might one expect to see in a joint where the two conductors are simply touched but without a lot of pressure? It's still measured in tens of milliohms . . . but for all practical purposes a "good" but intermittent connection from the perspective of troubleshooting things like retracting landing lights. When a mechanic reports a "high resistance" connection in some made-up joints (fast-on connection, ring terminal over a screw, two pieces of brass bolted together) the image I see in my head is a joint once measured in micro-ohms having been elevated to the tens of milliohms. In a cranking circuit, this joint would heat up, smoke, and perhaps set things on fire when hit with 100+ amp loads. http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Failures/6041_Contactor_Failure.jpg 100 milliohms in series with the motor/lamp circuit of our landing light example would have NO immediately observable effect on landing light operations. Assuming a 100W landing light (and I think many of those things were 250w) the running current of 8A x 100 millohms 6.4 watts of HEAT being dumped into the joint. This kind of stress causes localized heating that can begin to degrade the materials locally over time. Not unlike the situation that caused the switch failure discussed here: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Anatomy_of_a_Switch_Failure/Anatomy_of_a_Switch_Failure.html So when we speak of "high resistance" joints, I'll suggest that the increase in resistance is not great enough to produce readily observable effects. One MIGHT deduce a high resistance joint by measuring voltage drop under load (an adaptation of the 4-wire milliohmmeter technique) but while a 100 milliohm joint will eventually smoke something over time, it's certainly not the proximate cause of increased current flow that opens breakers, ect. I mentioned an "intermittent" joints . . . a joint that makes transient good/bad connection. These joints will degrade over time due to heating effects of arcing but for the most part, they manifest themselves in the form of flickering lights, upset radios, and get fixed before the failures at the connection become catastrophic. The term "high resistance" to describe the intermittent joint would not be expected to produce the same mental images on the part of both writer and reader. An intermittent joint offers a whole new thought process that explores different dynamics than the slow-moving effects of localized heating. It's sad that both writers and publishers of the kinds of articles that started this thread haven't a clue as to the nature of microscopic, simple-ideas that drive the physics of the situation they're discussing. Further, they may use words that in their mind describes apples while their readers perceive oranges. The end product often generates and propagates more mis- understanding than if the article had never been written. Unfortunately, much of what passes for sage advice in the revered documents of our craft do not pass muster as lucid words of understanding. Caveat emptor - without warranty a buyer assumes all risks. You are a buyer of ideas when you spend $time$ to read, assimilate and apply notions proffered by the words and illustrations. Critical review is NEVER a bad idea for anything you read from the wild . . . from ANY source (including aeroelectric.com). Bob . . .


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:36:37 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Dry Cell Batteries?
    At 08:07 AM 8/26/2008 -0500, you wrote: > >Steve, > >I think you are talking about the Odyssey "Dry Cell" battery series? If >so, they technology they use is "absorbed glass mat." The Odyssey folks >call them "Dry Cell" because if you were to break open the case, no >electrolyte would run out. It is totally contained within the glass mat >material. > >So, yes, a bit of advertising hype. But it is still an excellent >battery. I have an Odyssey 680 in my (under construction) Europa. The >battery is 5 years old. I've been using it to test the panel as it was >installed. There were periods as long as a year and a half where the >battery sat unused. It held a charge for those unused periods. After 5 >years of such abuse, it still turns the engine (Rotax 914) over quite >briskly. Prior to first flight, I'm troubleshooting a few last gremlins >in the instrument panel and it will run the panel all day long. When it's >time to replace it, I'll have no hesitation replacing it with another new >Odyssey. The Odyssey batteries are a product of the old Gates-cum-Hawker-cum-EnerSys prismatic cell batteries built here: http://www.odysseyfactory.com/about.html Got to tour this plant a few years ago while on assignment with Raytheon/H-B. The full line of their products can be seen at: http://www.odysseybatteries.com/ Without a doubt, these products are at the leading edge of battery quality and performance . . . with a price to match. As I recall, about 700 folks running a highly automated manufacturing process produces about 60,000 batteries a day! But it's still an SVLA battery loaded with the same water-acid mix used by their competitors. Bob . . .


    Message 5


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    Time: 09:04:41 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Dry Cell Batteries?
    From: "rampil" <ira.rampil@gmail.com>
    You don't have to be an old timer to remember that "dry cells" are carbon - zinc flashlight batteries. I love my Odyssey battery but it sounds like one of their marketing folks stepped out on a limb without engineering support -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0675#200675


    Message 6


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    Time: 09:18:20 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Dry Cell Batteries?
    From: "mikef" <mikefapex@gmail.com>
    A question related to Odessey batteries specifically, how can you determine the number of 'cells' within the battery. I've not been able to find that in their docs. The reason I ask is that I just got a West Mountain CBA battery tester, and one of the test parameters is the 'number of cells' . Not really sure how to answer that, to build an accurate test. Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks, Mike Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0678#200678


    Message 7


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    Time: 09:50:30 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Dry Cell Batteries?
    At 09:17 AM 8/26/2008 -0700, you wrote: > >A question related to Odessey batteries specifically, how can you >determine the number of 'cells' within the battery. I've not been able to >find that in their docs. > >The reason I ask is that I just got a West Mountain CBA battery tester, >and one of the test parameters is the 'number of cells' . Not really sure >how to answer that, to build an accurate test. ALL lead-acid batteries are composed of cells that develop just over 2 volts per cell at room temperature. Like the batteries used in our cars since day-one, a 6v battery is 3 cells; a 12 battery is 6 cells, etc. I'm not sure why West Mountain puts that block into their setup screen . . . the value placed in it has no effect on how the test is run. It's a constant current discharge + data acquisition system that will yield the same plot irrespective of what values go into the "battery type" and "cells" boxes. I'm pleased that you've acquired one of these very useful tools! Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 8


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    Time: 09:50:58 AM PST US
    From: Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com>
    Subject: Re: Dry Cell Batteries?
    Mike, A single lead-acid cell will produce approximately 2.1 volts. For a 12 volt ( 12.6 volts actually) battery that is 6 cells. Check out "lead acid battery" in the Wikipedia. Bob Borger On Tuesday, August 26, 2008, at 11:17AM, "mikef" <mikefapex@gmail.com> wrote: > >A question related to Odessey batteries specifically, how can you determine the number of 'cells' within the battery. I've not been able to find that in their docs. > >The reason I ask is that I just got a West Mountain CBA battery tester, and one of the test parameters is the 'number of cells' . Not really sure how to answer that, to build an accurate test. > >Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks, > >Mike > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0678#200678 > >


    Message 9


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    Time: 09:51:55 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Dry Cell Batteries?
    At 09:03 AM 8/26/2008 -0700, you wrote: > >You don't have to be an old timer to remember that "dry cells" >are carbon - zinc flashlight batteries. Hmmmm . . . I think the witch's brew of gooey stuff in side was still moist and probably water based. I also recall how badly they could leak! There was a time that one battery manufacturer (Eveready I think) offered to repair or replace any appliance that was trashed due to leakage of their new and improved cells. >I love my Odyssey battery but it sounds like one of their marketing >folks stepped out on a limb without engineering support. It's been my experience that the last folks marketing wants to hear from are the engineers! Bob . . .


    Message 10


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    Time: 09:53:28 AM PST US
    From: "Roger & Jean" <mrspudandcompany@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: Dry Cell Batteries?
    * AeroElectric-List message posted by: "mikef" <mikefapex@gmail.com> A question related to Odessey batteries specifically, how can you determine the number of 'cells' within the battery. I've not been able to find that in their docs. The reason I ask is that I just got a West Mountain CBA battery tester, and one of the test parameters is the 'number of cells' . Not really sure how to answer that, to build an accurate test. Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks, Mike Mike, * Lead acid batteries, such as the odessey, are about 2 V per cell, which means a 12V battery has 6 cells. * * Roger


    Message 11


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    Time: 10:02:15 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
    Subject: Crimp Tool Alert
    I noticed another PIDG tool on the HF website that I'd cited before but never put my hands on one. They were on sale a few weeks ago so I purchased one for $7.50. It's a very capable clone of the $low$ tools that have been out in the wild for 20 years . . . http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/Harbor_Freight_93977.gif . . . but with improvements that sculptured the dies (particularly on the insulation grip side). http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/Harbor_Freight_97420.gif http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/Harbor_Freight_97420.jpg I'm disappointed to report to you that while this tool does do a good wire grip, crush height is too tall to grip the smaller diameter wires we use in the airplanes. Some of you may recall that we encountered this condition once before. A Cleveland Tool crimper . . . http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/CLEVELAND60A.jpg http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/CLEVELAND61A.jpg http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/CLEVELAND65A.jpg http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/CLEVELAND66A.jpg The HF product is a great, low cost alternative to going first class http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/AMP_T-Head_2.jpg but in this case, the tool just doesn't cut it for purposes close to our hearts. I'll experiment with some modifications to the tool to see if it can be shimmed . . . but then, if I spend more than 20 minutes on making it work, I've blown the cost of ownership advantage for having acquired the low cost tool in the first place! ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 12


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    Time: 10:08:35 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Dry Cell Batteries?
    From: "mikef" <mikefapex@gmail.com>
    Thanks for the battery cell info, it does help. I am very glad to have gotten the CBA battery tester and look forward to using it. I'll post feedback as I run some tests. Sunday I fired up the engine on my new Z19 system and ground ran for a few minutes. All smoke stayed in wires, major circuits worked as expected. Its a beautiful thing. Thanks again, Mike Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0694#200694


    Message 13


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    Time: 10:36:57 AM PST US
    From: "Peter Laurence" <dr.laurence@mbdi.org>
    Subject: measuring capacitance.
    Thanks to all who responded to my capacitance question. All have been very helpful Peter RV9A fuse Do not archive


    Message 14


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    Time: 10:39:05 PM PST US
    From: Jeff Page <jpx@Qenesis.com>
    Subject: Crimpers
    Searching through the archives, the comment made was that the best stripper is the Ideal 45-187, which naturally is discontinued. Looking through their catalog shows a wide variety of apparently almost identical strippers. The 45-177 seems quite similar, but is missing the short stop latch and wire stop. How useful are those features ? Should I be looking for a 45-187 in the marketplace anyway ? Non of the the strippers seem to handle the range of wire that is used in aircraft. Do I need to buy two strippers to handle 10-14 gauge and another for 16-26, or can I just swap blades (how much of a pain is that ??) ? What about the "Lite" strippers, smaller and easier to squeeze sounds great. What is the downside ? Additionally, I was unable to find any recommendations for Molex 0.062" contacts. How about the Sargent 3133-CT ? Thanks ! Jeff Page Dream Aircraft Tundra #10




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