Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:03 AM - Re: Dancing Ammeter (Ed Gilroy)
2. 05:25 AM - Re: Kitplanes article on an Elegant LED driver (Brantel)
3. 05:54 AM - Re: New background image on aeroelectric.com (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 06:39 AM - Re: Thermocouple question... (Steve Stearns)
5. 08:49 AM - Re: D-100 Encoder Help (John McKiernan)
6. 09:45 AM - Re: Avionics Back-Up Power (Roger & Jean)
7. 10:13 AM - Z19RB with dual electronic ignition (Roger & Jean)
8. 10:41 AM - Re: Re: Kitplanes article on an Elegant LED driver (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 10:59 AM - Re: Dancing Ammeter (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 11:05 AM - Re: Avionics Back-Up Power (Carlos Trigo)
11. 11:09 AM - Re: Re: Kitplanes article on an Elegant LED driver (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 11:18 AM - Re: Re: Kitplanes article on an Elegant LED driver (Roger & Jean)
13. 11:44 AM - Garmin GTX-330 Instalation Manual (Carlos Trigo)
14. 12:16 PM - Re: Kitplanes article on an Elegant LED driver (Brantel)
15. 12:19 PM - Re: Kitplanes article on an Elegant LED driver (Brantel)
16. 12:57 PM - Re: Garmin GTX-330 Instalation Manual (Harley)
17. 01:38 PM - Re: Re: Kitplanes article on an Elegant LED driver (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 01:50 PM - Re: Garmin GTX-330 Instalation Manual (Werner Schneider)
19. 02:39 PM - Re: Kitplanes article on an Elegant LED driver (Brantel)
20. 02:50 PM - Re: Re: Kitplanes article on an Elegant LED driver (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 05:04 PM - Re: Garmin GTX-330 Instalation Manual (Carlos Trigo)
22. 11:02 PM - Official AeroElectric-List FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) (Matt Dralle)
23. 11:08 PM - Official AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines (Matt Dralle)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Dancing Ammeter |
Bob:
I see that I have stepped in a streaming pile on a path that others have
blazed before me !!!
As for the excellent references, they describe the situation exactly, I
will investigate as you suggest.
Many thanks...
Ed
On Sun, Aug 31, 2008 at 9:22 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@cox.net> wrote:
> nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>
> At 06:20 PM 8/31/2008 -0400, you wrote:
>
>> Hello:
>>
>> Been a member for a few weeks now, trying to figure out a problem on a
>> club 172 (building a RV-8).
>>
>> The term "dancing" seems to be applied to what is happening. With light
>> load on (no landing/taxi lights, pitot heat, etc) the ammeter makes a
>> rhythmic swing around the zero point of the meter. I would guess 60-80 times
>> per second. This started a year ago and our A+P says no big deal, at least 3
>> ships at our airport have the same problem!!! With a heavy, full load (turn
>> everything on), ammeter firms right up.
>>
>> I had a nasty alternator/battery failure last november inside the NYC
>> VFR corridor (no place to lose your comm!!!) and replaced alternator +
>> regulator but this problem stills haunts us. We recently swapped the
>> regulator with another, no joy.
>>
>> Ideas on how to proceed?
>>
>
>
> See list-server thread at:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/6fb32p
>
> also top of column 2 on the last page of:
>
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Regulators/Zeftronics/R15V00_Ford_Style_Reulator.pdf
>
> and column 2, third paragraph, page 4 of
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/grnding.pdf
>
> It'a a 99% sure deal that if you start with the circuit
> breaker at the bus and replace and/or clean-refurbish
> ALL metallic joints between the bus and the voltage
> regulator, the problem will go away for the twenty+
> years it took for the root cause of the problem to
> build up.
>
> I've never encountered a mechanic that had heard of
> this nor an instructor that included it in his/her
> teachings. The slow build of TOTAL resistance in
> the power path that supplies field current AND
> shares bus voltage sense duties will eventually cause
> ALL airplanes to do this. The Cessnas are the worst
> because of the gross numbers of metallic joints in
> this power path.
>
> Replacing ONE of the many components may cause it
> go reduce or go away leading the observer to believe
> he/she has "slain the dragon". In fact, until all
> the dragons are cleaned out, others will grow to
> sufficient size to become the triggering event.
>
> Metallic joint include those inside the breaker,
> master switch, any OV relays, connector pins,
> and crimps to wires. Each is small but they all
> add up.
>
> An alternative is to replace the stock 'ford' style
> regulator with a more modern device that has a
> separate bus voltage sense wire apart from that
> which carries field current.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Kitplanes article on an Elegant LED driver |
Jim
Let us know how it goes, rat shack has a nice small all aluminum project box that
should work well for this.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1939#201939
Message 3
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| Subject: | New background image on aeroelectric.com |
At 10:36 PM 8/31/2008 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Hey Bob, we can see a nice view of your house on the right before the
>threshold...
I wish. the airport had a covenant with houses on both sides
of the runway for access by aircraft owners. The house
you're referring to is the newest in the neighborhood and
across the street from the airport. A house owned by the
guy who developed the land in the first place is not visible
behind the Trike's control hoop. When he started to develop
the land across the street, ALL the lots were platted for
homes . . . just what we needed. Houses 400 feet of the
end of the runway!
I think there's been a meeting of the minds now for
protecting the land off the runway approaches. I almost
bought a house out there. In
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/1K1_Spring_1989.jpg
the southernmost property just west of the runway
can be seen to be surrounded by trees etc. That was
a junker house that some guy was trying to build
by himself. What he was assembling would never be
habitable and when he died, the property sold for
less than land value because the new owner would
have to remove the construction. It was a deal but
I had way too much on my plate to really consider it.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple question... |
Bob,
Thanks for the help. I'm having a lot of fun on my re-wiring project
but it is really time-consuming... I really appreciate having your
book, you and the group available to sanity check my details...
> **How many total measurement points are you installing? "four,
> 6-wire cables" brings an image of 24 conductors for 12
> thermocouples total.**
Each of the 6-wire cables is basically used as a copper intermediary for
one of the switch poles (four total for the combinations of EGT/CHT and
Yellow/Red). Each cable has 5 goes-to-the-switch signals (from one side
of 5 thermocouples) and a sixth wire that goes from that cables
switch-pole common to a section of TC wire required to move the cold
junction back up to the instrument. This gives 10 thermocouples total
(which I'll think about extending to six since the grayhill switch will
let me).
> **One of my favorite "tiny" switches
> for thermocouples is a Grayhill GH5602 . . .
>
> http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=GH5602-ND
>
> which only handles 6 thermocouples. **
Those grayhill switches look exactly like what I was getting ready to go
look for.
> **Consider using T/C wire all the way from the splices
> at the engine couples, through the switch and to the instrument...
but avoid
> k-wire to copper joints until you are at the rear of the
> instrument case. **
How do I bond TC wire directly to the switch without having a copper
intermediary? That seems like a better approach but I don't have any
good ideas on how to do it (I figured silver-soldering to the switch
wasn't likely to work...). Since all my ideas required a copper
intermediary, I figured I might as well take advantage of it and remote
the TC to copper junctions (other than the required cold-junctions
behind the instrument) a couple feet away from the crowded spot on the
panel where the switches and instrument reside. <new idea follows...>
If I do end up stuck with a copper intermediary, it seems like the run
from the switch to the instrument doesn't have to go back to the
pre-switch TC-to-copper junctions and therefore could be just a couple
of inches long (the switches will be located at the instrument). Since
each would still require a switch-to-copper junction at the switch, a
copper to TC junction, and a TC junction back to copper (at the
instrument for a cold junction) all within a few inches it seems a
kludgy way to do it but it does save running a pair of TC wires a couple
of feet in a wire-crowded area.
(Annoying theoretical thought follows...) Assuming the "new idea" still
balances all the thermocouples correctly (which I *think* it does), and
since the section of TC wire could be arbitrarily short (implying
arbitrarily iso-thermal) it's seems reasonable to argue that IF you knew
that the copper wire from the switch and the copper wire to the
instrument were the same alloys (which you don't) that the couples at
each end of the arbitrarily short TC wire would cancel and, therefore,
you could eliminate them without affect. The implication being that the
resulting performance would be equivalent to that with the cold couples
at the back of the instrument when, in fact, they aren't there. Clearly
I'm missing something here and don't have it all figured out yet...
> **Suggest TT-K-24S wire at:
>
> http://www.omega.com/pptst/XC_K_TC_WIRE.html
>
> **
I've got some of this wire in 20 Gauge for making thermocouples for
not-too-hot areas. For the 10' runs up to the panel, I've got some
EXPP-K-20S stranded "extension" wire (but need more...). I picked the
20 Gauge just to follow the "no airframe wire smaller than 22 Gage"
rule-of-thumb and the stranded variety for improved motion-related
durability. (Sounds like I might have over-thought the problem.) If
there is a good way to bond TC wire to the switch then I'll ditch the
copper intermediary and switch to the 24 Gauge extension wire for the
couple of feet required to go up to the switches.
I'm assuming it's not worth "home-brewing" from scratch either EGT
probes or plug-washer CHT probes so I haven't purchased any high-temp TC
wire. But can you replace the wire in plug-washer CHT probes and, if
so, do you have a part number for an appropriate wire to buy for that
purpose?
Seemingly simple principles sure lead to a lot of required details to
get it right. Sort of a Mandelbrot or "emergent behavior" sort of
thing. <grin>
Thanks in advance,
Steve Stearns
Boulder/Longmont, Colorado
CSA,EAA,IAC,AOPA,PE,ARRL,BARC (but ignorant none-the-less)
Restoring (since 1/07): N45FC O235 Longeze Cothern/Friling CF1 (~1000 Hrs)
Flying (since 9/86): N43732 A65 Taylorcraft BC12D
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: D-100 Encoder Help |
Ed,
I have virtually the same setup except a Dynon D-180. The Dynon install
manual has you set the Altitude output to !:
The EFIS Altitude Encoder format must be set to
format number one. To change this setting, from the main menu, select: MORE
> SETUP > MORE > ALTENC. Press FRMAT until it reads "1."
Set to output 1 my King KT76A is working fine with respect to ATC.
The Garmin 300XL gives you two choices for serial altitude input:
Icarus-alt and shadin-alt. Neither of which is compatible to the Dynon
serial output of "1". I did have the Dynon output set to "4" which worked
on the 300XL, but wouldn't allow the Transponder to work. Maybe there is a
workaround to this problem using the serial stream? You could always feed
the 300xl with gray code split from the Dynon serial encoder.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Avionics Back-Up Power |
Hmmmm . . . this is a bit problematic. Battery installation
philosophy in A/C calls for local disconnect (battery contactor
or relay). We also need to size the wiring so expected loads
and recharge currents do not experience too large voltage
drop. Finally, all wires need to be properly protected against
faults.
Bob . . .
Bob,
>From one of your recent postings, you mentioned that battery install
philosophy calls for a local disconnect. In the Z19RB the wires off the
busses at the 2 batteries are always hot. Are you saying that the fat wires
must be short or disconnected and it is OK to have small fused wires, always
hot going to the instrument panel and elsewhere?
Thanks,
Roger
Message 7
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| Subject: | Z19RB with dual electronic ignition |
Bob,
I will be using the Z19RB schematic, modified to fit my application. I am
planning to have 2 fuel pumps in parallel and 2 electronic ignitions. May I
have your suggestions on the best modification to make this happen?
Roger
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Kitplanes article on an Elegant LED driver |
At 10:55 PM 8/31/2008 -0400, you wrote:
>
>I had a conversation with an engineer from the mfg of the Buck Puck and
>the very first thing he suggested is to package the PWS in a
>container. Just going to try this? Hope he is right.
That's half the battle. Containers provide (1) attenuation
of radiated emissions and (2) ground reference for line filters
to attenuate conducted emissions.
A metallic enclosure MAY be necessary. Line filters are
the first thing to try. That's why I asked if the noise
conduction path had been identified in an earlier post. If
the noises are noted coming in through the antenna on
vor/com receivers, then the filters need tailoring for vhf
frequencies . . . MUCH smaller/easier than audio/LF
frequencies that plague other victims by conducting noise
out on power lines.
One observes by the packaging of the Buck Puck that it was
not designed to be a stand-alone product but a component
of a more comprehensive assembly. The elegant solution
for integrating this device into airplanes is to built
an adapter board that also mounts a d-sub connector.
The line filter components can be assembled on the board
along with the connector and power supply.
Once the filter components are wired in, you can test to
see if the noise went away. If not, mount the assembly in
a metal enclosure where the 'ground' side of the filters
are connected to that enclosure.
I'll lay out a board and get some WAG filter components
ordered. I need to know if there is continuity between
the LED- and Vin(-). If you can get me this bit of
info, I'll finish the board layout and get those ordered
too. Also, do you plan to use the CONTROL or REFERENCE
features of these devices?
Bob . . .
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Dancing Ammeter |
At 07:01 AM 9/1/2008 -0400, you wrote:
>Bob:
>
> I see that I have stepped in a streaming pile on a path that others
> have blazed before me !!!
>
> As for the excellent references, they describe the situation exactly,
> I will investigate as you suggest.
>
> Many thanks...
>
>Ed
My pleasure sir! Let me know how it works out.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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| Subject: | Avionics Back-Up Power |
Bob
As usual you've been very useful.
Thanks for your help
Carlos
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III
>
> <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>
>
> I am thinking in installing the battery in the tail deck (under the RV-9A
> tail fairing), in order to obtain the longest arm to help with the Balance
> of the aircraft.
>
> The (-) terminal will be connected to a local Ground (which is the same I
> used for the tail light), and the (+) terminal connected to a 16A fuse
> located near the battery. (Is this fuse adequate to protect the wire and
> the battery from any inadvertent short along the hot wire?).
>
> Sure, fuses are fast and tend to limit energy in
> the fault to the lowest practical values.
>
> By the way, regarding your observation that the wire should not be hot
> after shutdown, because of maintenance and crash safety, my humble opinion
> is that, in case of maintenance it is easy to disconnect the battery or
> pull out the fuse, and in case of crash I do have many hot wires around.
>
> If this meets your design goals, then go for it!
>
> From the fuse I will run an AWG#14 wire to a buss behind the instrument
> panel. Actually I'm planning this "buss" to be the "out" terminal of a
> diode, and I am thinking to connect the Main Battery to the "In" terminal
> of the Diode, to charge the Back-Up Battery.
> From that "buss" (the "out" terminal of the diode) I would run wires to
> each of the Avionics to be fed with back-up power.
>
> And that's where I come back to my initial question:
>
> How do I wire from this back-up "buss", which is permanently hot, to each
> of the Avionics (Comm Radio and Transponder) which only have one power
input?
>
> Okay, you already have two batteries and you've
> suggested that the always hot wire does not violate
> your design goals. You've also stated a desire not
> to add switches.
>
> I am prepared to be technically fustigated but please be gentle..
>
> Not a problem. If I understand your design goals
> accurately, then how about simply adding the second
> battery in parallel to the battery that is already
> tasked with running the panel when the alternator is
> off line. Fuses at both ends protects the wire,
> minimized parts count and avoids voltage drops
> associated with diodes.
>
> There's much M-Squared (mythology and misunderstanding)
> about paralleling batteries. It is true that any number
> of batteries may be paralleled for the purpose of
> charging them on a constant voltage source. All
> batteries will accept what ever energy they are capable
> of holding. Any number of batteries may be paralleled
> for the purpose of discharging them and aside from
> shorted-cell failures (exceedingly rare in RG batteries)
> all paralleled batteries will deliver all their contained
> energy to the load irrespective of their size or condition.
>
> Energy storage abilities of the tail-battery will
> be seamlessly added to those of the existing panel-
> battery if you simply parallel them.
>
> For the purposes of supporting good recharging times
> on the tail battery and minimizing voltage drop on that
> long run, I'll suggest 10AWG wire and 20A MAXI fuses at both
> ends.
>
> Bob . . .
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Kitplanes article on an Elegant LED driver |
At 07:15 PM 8/31/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>I and several others have tried the wired buck puck by LEDDynamics:
>
>http://www.ledsupply.com/03023-d-n-1000.php
>
>I think most if not all of these different types of drivers from
>LEDDynamics have similar circuits in them and similar noise issues.
>
>I personally have the 1000mA version with two parallel runs of three K2
>stars in series for 500mA on each series string of 3 LED's. This 6 LED's
>total side of the airplane.
>
>I do not have a panel mounted radio yet to try but several others have
>tried them with the SL30 with no success. I do however have a handheld
>with similar problems when used near these drivers.
Aha! if a hand-held has the problem, we know it's radiated
in through the antenna. That's what I would have guessed
but there's risk in guessing.
>The symptoms that most report with panel mount radios is noise over the
>headsets and reduced sensitivity (distant signals go quiet) when the LED
>driver is powered on. Handheld goes nuts (tons of static/noise/inability
>to squelch it out) when within 50ft of these things while running the
>handheld on separate battery power.
>
>The literature for the driver says to put a 220uF cap across the power
>leads to the driver when operating with long input leads. Most report
>that this does nothing to help the noise issue,
>
>Others have went a step farther and installed a 220uF cap and a .1uF cap
>in parallel across the input leads and this reduced the audible noise on
>the panel mount radio but had no effect on the reduced sensitivity.
>
>Still another went a step farther and tried the same on the input and
>outputs of the driver with the same results. Reduced the audible noise on
>the panel mount radio but had no effect on the reduced sensitivity.
>
>And as a final straw, one guy put both the caps on the input leads and
>also added a loop thru a ferrite bead optimized for the airband on the
>input leads, output leads, and the wires going to and coming from his
>audio panel and panel mount radio. This eliminated the audible noise on
>the panel mount radio but had no effect on the reduced sensitivity (turn
>off the driver and distant stations come in loud and clear, turn on the
>driver and they go quiet, seems to trigger the active noise reduction
>circuits of the panel mount radio when the noise floor is raised).
>
>The only thing we have not tried is to put this whole mess in a sealed
>aluminum box and ground it.
>
>There are a bunch of us over on the VAF site that would love to get these
>things working with our airplanes. The driver is just too simple and
>inexpensive. There has to be some relativly simple fix for this. These
>drivers have great constant current, run at wide voltage ranges, work
>great with the high power LED's, and produce little to no heat. If it was
>not for this noise issue, the perfect thing for us....
Okay, In another post I've offered to lay out a board that
will mount the Buck Puck and bring leads out to the aircraft
on a 9-pin D-sub. Are you using the Control or Reference
connections? Also, I need to know if there is electrical
continuity between Vin minus and LEDout minus connections.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Kitplanes article on an Elegant LED driver |
<nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
At 10:55 PM 8/31/2008 -0400, you wrote:
<jimw_btg@earthlink.net>
>
>I had a conversation with an engineer from the mfg of the Buck Puck and
>the very first thing he suggested is to package the PWS in a
>container. Just going to try this? Hope he is right.
That's half the battle. Containers provide (1) attenuation
of radiated emissions and (2) ground reference for line filters
to attenuate conducted emissions.
A metallic enclosure MAY be necessary. Line filters are
the first thing to try. That's why I asked if the noise
conduction path had been identified in an earlier post. If
the noises are noted coming in through the antenna on
vor/com receivers, then the filters need tailoring for vhf
frequencies . . . MUCH smaller/easier than audio/LF
frequencies that plague other victims by conducting noise
out on power lines.
One observes by the packaging of the Buck Puck that it was
not designed to be a stand-alone product but a component
of a more comprehensive assembly. The elegant solution
for integrating this device into airplanes is to built
an adapter board that also mounts a d-sub connector.
The line filter components can be assembled on the board
along with the connector and power supply.
Once the filter components are wired in, you can test to
see if the noise went away. If not, mount the assembly in
a metal enclosure where the 'ground' side of the filters
are connected to that enclosure.
I'll lay out a board and get some WAG filter components
ordered. I need to know if there is continuity between
the LED- and Vin(-). If you can get me this bit of
info, I'll finish the board layout and get those ordered
too. Also, do you plan to use the CONTROL or REFERENCE
features of these devices?
If you are going to build a board, it would be good to keep all options
open.
Roger
Bob . . .
Message 13
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| Subject: | Garmin GTX-330 Instalation Manual |
Does anybody have, or knows where to download from, the Installation Manual
(not the User's Manual) for the Garmin GTX-330 Transponder?
Help appreciated
Carlos
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Kitplanes article on an Elegant LED driver |
Bob,
I am using the simple 4 wire version of the buck puck and do not intend to use
the control or reference functions but it would be great if those "could" be used
on this rig in the event someone wanted to strobe/dim/on-off control these
things for other applications in the plane.
I checked the continuity between the Vin Minus and LED minus and it does have 100%
continuity both directions (diode mode not required on meter).
I also checked the current on the input and it was 460mA @ 12vDC using a wall wart
powersupply.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2004#202004
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Kitplanes article on an Elegant LED driver |
Bob,
I am using the simple 4 wire version of the buck puck and do not intend to use
the control or reference functions but it would be great if those "could" be used
on this rig in the event someone wanted to strobe/dim/on-off control these
things for other applications in the plane.
I checked the continuity between the Vin Minus and LED minus and it does have 100%
continuity both directions (diode mode not required on meter).
I also checked the current on the input and it was 460mA @ 12vDC using a wall wart
powersupply.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2005#202005
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GTX-330 Instalation Manual |
Carlos...
No problem...I just googled "garmin 330 transponder installation
manual" and came up with this:
http://tinyurl.com/6gnuqp
Harley
Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> Does anybody have, or knows where to download from, the Installation
> Manual (not the User's Manual) for the Garmin GTX-330 Transponder?
>
>
>
> Help appreciated
>
> Carlos
>
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Agelesswings certifies that no virus is in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Kitplanes article on an Elegant LED driver |
At 12:14 PM 9/1/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>I am using the simple 4 wire version of the buck puck and do not intend to
>use the control or reference functions but it would be great if those
>"could" be used on this rig in the event someone wanted to
>strobe/dim/on-off control these things for other applications in the plane.
>
>I checked the continuity between the Vin Minus and LED minus and it does
>have 100% continuity both directions (diode mode not required on meter).
>
>I also checked the current on the input and it was 460mA @ 12vDC using a
>wall wart powersupply.
Very good. I've laid out a board that's 1.6" x 1.5" with a 9-pin
d-sub and couple-capped, pi-net filters on both power+ in and
LED+ out leads. I found a 100uH inductor in a 10mm x 10mm
footprint that's good for an amp of DC current.
The boards and inductors are on order. Capacitors and
connnectors are in stock. If you'd like to mail me your
Buck-Puck, I'll assemble it onto the board with the filter
and check it against my hand-held before I return it to
you for testing in your system.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GTX-330 Instalation Manual |
There is a bit newer revision J, Carlos let me know if I should send it
to you
Werner
Harley wrote:
> Carlos...
>
> No problem...I just googled "garmin 330 transponder installation
> manual" and came up with this:
> http://tinyurl.com/6gnuqp
>
> Harley
>
> Carlos Trigo wrote:
>>
>> Does anybody have, or knows where to download from, the Installation
>> Manual (not the Users Manual) for the Garmin GTX-330 Transponder?
>>
>> Help appreciated
>>
>> Carlos
>>
>> *
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> Agelesswings certifies that no virus is in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
>>
>>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Kitplanes article on an Elegant LED driver |
Bob,
I'll just drop ship you a new one from the supplier. How do you want it, flying
leads or board mounted?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2030#202030
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Kitplanes article on an Elegant LED driver |
At 02:38 PM 9/1/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>I'll just drop ship you a new one from the supplier. How do you want it,
>flying leads or board mounted?
Board mounted.
Bob . . .
Message 21
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| Subject: | Garmin GTX-330 Instalation Manual |
Thanks Harley
I wasn't so lucky or wise enough in my googling.
Carlos
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harley
Sent: segunda-feira, 1 de Setembro de 2008 20:56
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Garmin GTX-330 Instalation Manual
Carlos...
No problem...I just googled "garmin 330 transponder installation manual"
and came up with this:
http://tinyurl.com/6gnuqp
Harley
Carlos Trigo wrote:
Does anybody have, or knows where to download from, the Installation Manual
(not the User's Manual) for the Garmin GTX-330 Transponder?
Help appreciated
Carlos
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matro
nics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
_____
Agelesswings certifies that no virus is in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Message 22
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| Subject: | Official AeroElectric-List FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) |
Dear Listers,
Please read over the AeroElectric-List Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) below.
The
complete AeroElectric-List FAQ including the Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/AeroElectric-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
[ Note: This FAQ was designed to be displayed with a fixed width font such as
Courier. Proportional fonts will cause display formatting errors. ]
This FAQ can also be viewed in HTML online at the following address:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm
************************************************************
******* LIST POLICIES AND FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS *******
************************************************************
PLEASE READ. This document contains AeroElectric-List policies and information
for new and old subscribers. Understanding the AeroElectric-List policies will
minimize problems for the Administrator, and will help keep the AeroElectric-List
running smoothly for all of us.
******************************************
*** Quick Start Guide to List Features ***
******************************************
There are many features available on the Matronics Email Lists and each
one is described in detailed below. However, using the List Navigator
you can quickly access the complete set of features available for this
List. The List Navigator can be found at the following URL:
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****************************************
*** How to Subscribe and Unsubscribe ***
****************************************
Simply go to the Web Page shown below and enter your email address and
select the List(s) that you wish to subscribe or unsubscribed from. You
may also use the handy "Find" function to determine the exact syntax of
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The Subscribe/Unsubscribe web page is:
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Note that you will receive TWO conformation emails regarding your subsciption
process. The first verifies that your subscription/unsubsciption request
was received, and the second confirms that the process has been completed.
You should receive the first email within a few minutes of your request.
The second conformation will arrive in less than 24 hours. You cannot post
until you receive the second conformation email message.
*****************************
*** How to Post a Message ***
*****************************
Send an email message to:
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Your message will be redistributed to everyone currently subscribed
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*****************************************************
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When a new post is received by the system, the From: line of the message
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If the email address isn't found in the current list of subscribers, it
is dumped. This serves to very effectively thwart 99% of the SPAM that
gets posted to the Lists.
Remember, however, that the syntax of your email address is very important
with regard to the configuration of your email application such as Outlook
or Eudora. For example, the following two email addresses may be
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Either email address syntax is alright, just be sure that you configure
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**************************************
*** Enclosure Support on the Lists ***
**************************************
Limited posting of enclosures such as pictures, documents, and spreadsheets
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These are some of the features and limits of enclosures on the Matronics
Lists:
1) Enclosures will only be posted to the Real Time version of the Lists.
2) Enclosures will NOT be included in the Daily Digest version of the Lists.
3) Enclosures WILL BE forwarded on to the BBS Forum Web site.
4) Enclosures will NOT be appended to the Archives.
5) Enclosures will NOT be available in the List Browse feature.
6) Only the following file types and extensions will be allowed:
bmp doc dwg dxf gif jpg pdf png txt xls
All other enclosures types will be rejected and email returned to
sender. The enclosure types listed above are relatively safe from
a virus standpoint and don't pose a particularly large security risk.
7) !! All incoming enclosures will be scanned for viruses prior to posting
to the List. This is done in real time and will not slow down
the process of posting the message !!
Here are some rules for posting enclosures. Failure to abide by these rules
could result in the removal of a subscriber's email address from the Lists.
1) Pay attention to what you are posting!! Make sure that the files
you are enclosing aren't HUGE (greater that 1MB). Remember that there
are still people checking they're email via dial up modem. If you post
30MB worth of pictures, you are placing an unnecessary burden on these
folks and the rest of us, for that matter.
2) SCALE YOUR PICTURES DOWN!!! I don't want to see huge 3000 x 2000
pictures getting posted that are 3 or 4MB each. This is just
unacceptable. Use a program such as Photoshop to scale the picture
down to something on the order of 800 x 600 and try to keep the
file size to less-than 200KB, preferably much less.
Microsoft has a really awesome utility available for free that allows
you to Right-Click on a picture in Explorer and automatically
scale it down and resave it. This is a great utility - get it, use it!
http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx
Look for the link "Image Resizer"
3) !! This would seem to go without saying, but I'll say it anyway. Do not
post anything that would be considered offensive by your grandmother.
And you know what I'm saying; I don't want to see anything even
questionable. !!
4) REMEMBER THIS: If you post a 1MB enclosure to a List with 1000 members
subscribed, your 1MB enclosure must be resent 1000 times amounting
to 1MB X 1000 = 1 Gigabyte of network traffic!! BE CAREFUL and
BE COURTEOUS!
Also see the section below on the Matronics Photo and File Share where
you can have your files and photos posted on the Matronics web server
for long time viewing and availability.
*******************
*** Digest Mode ***
*******************
Each day, starting at 12 midnight PST US, a new 'digest' will be started.
This digest will contain the same information that is currently appended
to the archive file. It has all of the headers except for the "From:"
and "Subject:" lines removed, and includes a message separator consisting
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Each day at 23:55 PST US, the day's messages as described above will be
combined and sent as a single message to everyone on the digest email list.
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Note that you *can* be subscribed to both the realtime and digest versions
of the List at the same time. This is perfectly acceptable.
Now some caveats:
* Messages sent to "aeroelectric-list-digest" will be forwarded to the standard
email list. In other words, you cannot post messages only to the
digest List.
* If you are subscribed to both the regular List and the digest List, you
will receive the realtime postings as well as the digest at the end of
the day.
* If you reply to the digest email, your message will be forwarded to the
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the subject line to reflect the topic of your response! Also, please
*do not include all or most of the digest in your reply*.
****************************
*** List Digest Browser ***
****************************
An archive of all the List Digests can be found online in either plain text
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at the following location:
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*****************************************
*** The "DO NOT ARCHIVE" Message Flag ***
*****************************************
At times, your message may concern something that is revelent only to a very
small number of persons or to a limited area, and you may not wish to archive
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do not archive
Your message will not be appended to the archive, but will be sent to List
email distribution as normal.
**********************************************
***** READ THIS - Automatic Unsubscribes *****
**********************************************
Note that if your email address begins to cause problems such as bounced
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*******************************
*** List Member Information ***
*******************************
If you have not done so already, please email me your phone numbers and
paper mail address in the following format:
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Joe Smith
123 Airport Lane
Tower, CA 91234-1234
098-765-1234 w
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Please forward this information to the following email address:
requests@matronics.com
I have a file of such things, that I typically use to contact you when
there are problems with your email address. The information will NOT
be used for any other commercial purpose.
****************************************
*** Realtime Web Email List Browsing ***
****************************************
Recent messages posted to the AeroElectric-List are also made available on
the Web for realtime browsing. Seven days worth of back postings are
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or start a new message directly from the List Browser Interface (coming soon).
You do not have to be subscribed to the given list to use the List
Browser Interface in view-mode.
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*******************************************
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*******************************************
A phpBB BBS web Forums front end is available for all AeroElectric-List content.
content. The Forums contain all of the same content available via the email
distribution and found on the various archive viewing formats such as the
List Browse, etc. Any posts on the web Forums will be cross posted to the
respective email List, and posts to the Email List will be cross posted to
the web Forums.
You may view all List content on the Forums without any special login.
If you wish to post a message via the Web Forum interface, however, you
will need to Register. This is a simple process that takes only a few
minutes. A link to the Registration page can be found at the top of the
main web Forums page. Note that registering on the Forum web site also
enables you to send email posts to the Lists as well. You will also need to
Subscribe to the respective Email List as described above to receive the
Email Distribution of the List, however.
The Matroincs Email List Web BBS Forums can be found at the following URL:
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*********************************
*** Matronics Email List Wiki ***
*********************************
In an attempt to make it easy to store and find structured and often accessed
information, Matronics has installed a Wiki at:
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The Wiki allows individuals to create web pages to contain useful information
for other users of the mailing lists and web site. Unlike an ordinary web page
where the content needs to be submitted to Matronics for inclusion, the Wiki
permits the users to construct their own pages and have them visible immediately.
While constructing pages for the Wiki is not difficult, some may not be
comfortable building pages. In that case, simply prepare the text and any
images and email it to:
wiki-support@matronics.com
One of the volunteers on that list will take your submission and construct
a Wiki page for you.
Often someone produces a particularly useful posting in email one one of the
Lists that would be of general interest. In that case Matronics may take that
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*********************
*** List Archives ***
*********************
A file containing of all of the previous postings to the AeroElectric-List is
available on line. The archive file information is available via the
Web and FTP in a number of forms. Each are briefly described below:
* AeroElectric-List.FAQ
- Latest version of the AeroElectric-List Frequently Asked Question
page (this document).
* AeroElectric-Archive.digest.complete
- Complete file with most of the email header info removed and
page breaks inserted between messages.
* AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-??
- Same as the file above, but broken up into small sections that
can more easily handled.
* AeroElectric-Archive.digest.complete.zip
- Same as the AeroElectric-Archive.digest.complete file above, but
in PKZIP format. Use "binary" data transfer methods.
* AeroElectric-Archive.digest.complete.Z
- Same as the AeroElectric-Archive.digest.complete file above, but
in
UNIX compress format. Use "binary" data transfer methods.
Download Via FTP
----------------
The archive file is available via anonymous FTP from ftp.matronics.com
in the "/pub/Archives" directory. It is updated daily and can be found in
a number of formats as described above. (All filenames are case sensitive.)
ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/Archives
Download Via Web
----------------
The archives are also available via a web listing. These can be found
toward the bottom of the following web page:
http://www.matronics.com/archives
******************************************
*** Complete List Web Archive Browsing ***
******************************************
All messages posted to the AeroElectric-List are also available using the
Email List Archive Browsing feature. With this utility, all messages
in the List are indexed, and individual sub-archives can be browsed.
http://www.matronics.com/archive/archive-index.cgi?AeroElectric
*****************************************
**** High-Speed Archive Search Engine ***
*****************************************
You can use the custom, high-performance Matronics Email List Search Engine
to quickly locate and browse any messages that have been posted to the
List. The Engine allows the user to easily search any of the currently
available List archives.
http://www.matronics.com/search
****************************
*** File and Photo Share ***
****************************
With the Matronics Email List File and Photo Share you can share pictures
and other data with members of the List without having to forward a
copy of it to everyone. To share your Files and Photos, simply email
them to:
pictures@matronics.com
!! ==> Please including the following information with each submission:
1) Email Lists that they are related to.
2) Your Full Name.
3) Your Email Address.
4) One line Subject description.
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic.
6-x) One-line Description of each photo or file
Prior to public availability of the files and photos, each will be scanned
for viruses. Please also note that the process of making the files and
photos available on the web site is a pseudo-manual process, and I try to
process them every few days.
Following the availability of the new Photoshare, an email message will be
sent to the Email Lists enumerated in 1) above indicating that the new
Share is available and what the direct URL to it is.
For a current list of available Photoshares, have a look at the Main
Index Page:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
**************************
*** List Archive CDROM ***
**************************
A complete Matronics Email List Archive CD is available that contains
all of the archives since the beginning of each of the Lists. The archives
for all of the Lists are included on the CD along with a freeware search
engine written by a list member. The CD is burned the day you order it
and will contain archive received up to the last minute. They make
great gifts!
http://www.matronics.com/ArchiveCDROM
**********************************
*** List Support Contributions ***
**********************************
The Matronics Lists are run *completely* through the support of it members.
You won't find any PopUpAds, flashing Banner ads, or any other form of
annoying commercialism on either the Email Messages or the List web pages
associated with the Matronics Email Lists. Every year during November
I run a low-key, low-pressure "Fund Raiser" where, throughout the month,
I ask List members to make a Contribution in any amount with which they
are comfortable.
I will often offer free gifts with certain contribution levels during the
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Your Contributions go directly to supporting the operation of the Lists
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Generally Contributions range from $20 to $100 and are completely voluntary
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Contributions are accepted throughout the year, and if you've just
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The website for making SSL Secure Contributions is listed below. There are
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If you enjoy and value the List, won't you make a Contribution today to
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Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the AeroElectric-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the AeroElectric-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
AeroElectric-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the AeroElectric-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occassional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularyly
subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
do not archive
Message 23
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| Subject: | Official AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines |
Dear Listers,
Please read over the AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
AeroElectric-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/AeroElectric-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
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AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines
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The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the AeroElectric-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the AeroElectric-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
AeroElectric-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the AeroElectric-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occassional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularyly
subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
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do not archive
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