Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:36 AM - SD-8, voltage regulator and OV module (Etienne Phillips)
2. 05:13 AM - Re: SD-8, voltage regulator and OV module (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 05:13 AM - Re: SD-8, voltage regulator and OV module (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 05:36 AM - Tefzel Blade Wire Strippers (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 06:43 AM - Re: SD-8, voltage regulator and OV module (Etienne Phillips)
6. 07:33 AM - Re: Electronics 101...Advanced. (Eric M. Jones)
7. 03:35 PM - Re: Switch problem ***MAJOR UPDATE*** (Vernon Little)
8. 06:22 PM - Re: Switch problem ***MAJOR UPDATE*** (Bob White)
9. 07:31 PM - Re: Switch problem ***MAJOR UPDATE*** (Vernon Little)
Message 1
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Subject: | SD-8, voltage regulator and OV module |
Hi all
I would like to install a SD-8 into my currently alternatorless VFR
aircraft, but I'm a bit confused... What voltage regulator do I need to use?
I'm planning on using the 504-1 OV module, with the standard 5A circuit
breaker.
I'd also prefer not to have another switch between the alternator and the
main bus. If I need to disconnect the alternator from the bus, I'll pull the
breaker, which will de-power the relay in the OV circuit.
Thanks
Etienne
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: SD-8, voltage regulator and OV module |
At 09:32 AM 9/10/2008 +0200, you wrote:
>Hi all
>
>I would like to install a SD-8 into my currently alternatorless VFR
>aircraft, but I'm a bit confused... What voltage regulator do I need to
>use? I'm planning on using the 504-1 OV module, with the standard 5A
>circuit breaker.
>
>I'd also prefer not to have another switch between the alternator and the
>main bus. If I need to disconnect the alternator from the bus, I'll pull
>the breaker, which will de-power the relay in the OV circuit.
that will work
bob . . .
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: SD-8, voltage regulator and OV module |
At 09:32 AM 9/10/2008 +0200, you wrote:
>Hi all
>
>I would like to install a SD-8 into my currently alternatorless VFR
>aircraft, but I'm a bit confused... What voltage regulator do I need to
>use? I'm planning on using the 504-1 OV module, with the standard 5A
>circuit breaker.
The regulator comes with the SD-8
>I'd also prefer not to have another switch between the alternator and the
>main bus. If I need to disconnect the alternator from the bus, I'll pull
>the breaker, which will de-power the relay in the OV circuit.
that will work
bob . . .
Message 4
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Subject: | Tefzel Blade Wire Strippers |
The wire strippers I mentioned a few days ago are
in stock and listed at:
https://matronics.com/aeroelectric/Catalog/AECcatalog.html
These turned out to be in very good shape.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: SD-8, voltage regulator and OV module |
Great!
One less thing to buy ;-)
Thanks Bob
2008/9/10 Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
> nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>
> At 09:32 AM 9/10/2008 +0200, you wrote:
>
>> Hi all
>>
>> I would like to install a SD-8 into my currently alternatorless VFR
>> aircraft, but I'm a bit confused... What voltage regulator do I need to use?
>> I'm planning on using the 504-1 OV module, with the standard 5A circuit
>> breaker.
>>
>
> The regulator comes with the SD-8
>
>
> I'd also prefer not to have another switch between the alternator and the
>> main bus. If I need to disconnect the alternator from the bus, I'll pull the
>> breaker, which will de-power the relay in the OV circuit.
>>
>
> that will work
>
> bob . . .
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Electronics 101...Advanced. |
Mike,
I am certain there are, at least among my customers. With reference to the negative
ground, an extremely high impedance voltmeter will measure voltages on everything,
everybody, everywhere that is not firmly connected to ground. Even the
disconnected output terminal of a mechanical relay or switch, or disconnected
wires or metal will display a voltage.
Carlos,
A battery is only useful if it can deliver current (or power). Battery test meters
differ from voltmeters because they impose a small load on the battery being
measured. For 1.5V AA cells a load of 100 mA will do, so a load R of 1.5V/0.100A.
So a 15 Ohm load will do while measuring the voltage across the cell.
"Democracy is the theory that the common people know what they want and deserve
to get it good and hard." -- H. L. Mencken
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones@charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3586#203586
Message 7
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Subject: | Switch problem ***MAJOR UPDATE*** |
I was wrong about my replacement switch--- I was looking at the wrong one.
In fact, it IS failing, and the fast-on insulation is discolored. I
discovered this by detecting overheating switches on my panel today.
Furthermore, not only was the STROBE switch very hot, but the WIG-WAG and
TAXI switches were hot as well. I discovered this today. On the ground, my
panel was feeling warm, and I touched the back these switches. I burned my
finger on the STROBE switch (hurt for an hour), and the other switches were
hot as well, but not quite as bad.
These are the switches that are most often ON in flight (current flows
through one pole of the TAXI and LANDING switches when WIG-WAG is on). I
turned them OFF, turned on my LANDING light switch, and it got hot as well.
None of the other switches (MASTER (replaced once), PITOT (rarely used), NAV
(rarely used), FLAPS and BOOST PUMP and AVIONICS were warm when operated.
So I now have four more switch failures! This is now a total of 6 failures
in my a/c in 2.5 years. All are Carling switches.
I will be replacing all of the heavy load carrying switches in my A/C
immediately with another brand. In my opinion, all of these Carling
switches are suspect and everyone should check them for overheating.
Bob, this looks like a serious issue, in need of some further pursuit!
Thanks,
Vern
--> <rv-9a-online@telus.net>
I checked the switch that I installed as a replacement for the one that I
fried about 100 hours ago. No sign of external damage or discoloration on
the new switch.
My failed switch was installed in 2005, purchased somewhat earlier. I had
two switches that had loose rivets, so I'm wondering if there was a QC
problem with the Carling switches made about that time. It would be
interesting to see the date codes on the failed switches.
My failed switch says C0344 Mexico. My guess was this is a date code (44th
week in 2003?). The one Bob analysed says 9936 Mexico on it.
Vern
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Switch problem ***MAJOR UPDATE*** |
Hi Vern,
Check the crimps on your faston connectors. If the crimps are getting
hot they could be conducting heat into the switch tabs. The simplest
way to check would be to make a male faston jumper and replace one of
the switches that is getting hot, then turn on the master.
It might be a bad batch of switches, but it would be worth checking the
crimps before pulling all of them out.
Bob W.
On Wed, 10 Sep 2008 15:33:02 -0700
"Vernon Little" <rv-9a-online@telus.net> wrote:
>
> I was wrong about my replacement switch--- I was looking at the wrong one.
> In fact, it IS failing, and the fast-on insulation is discolored. I
> discovered this by detecting overheating switches on my panel today.
>
> Furthermore, not only was the STROBE switch very hot, but the WIG-WAG and
> TAXI switches were hot as well. I discovered this today. On the ground, my
> panel was feeling warm, and I touched the back these switches. I burned my
> finger on the STROBE switch (hurt for an hour), and the other switches were
> hot as well, but not quite as bad.
>
> These are the switches that are most often ON in flight (current flows
> through one pole of the TAXI and LANDING switches when WIG-WAG is on). I
> turned them OFF, turned on my LANDING light switch, and it got hot as well.
>
>
> None of the other switches (MASTER (replaced once), PITOT (rarely used), NAV
> (rarely used), FLAPS and BOOST PUMP and AVIONICS were warm when operated.
>
> So I now have four more switch failures! This is now a total of 6 failures
> in my a/c in 2.5 years. All are Carling switches.
>
> I will be replacing all of the heavy load carrying switches in my A/C
> immediately with another brand. In my opinion, all of these Carling
> switches are suspect and everyone should check them for overheating.
>
> Bob, this looks like a serious issue, in need of some further pursuit!
>
> Thanks,
> Vern
>
>
> --> <rv-9a-online@telus.net>
>
> I checked the switch that I installed as a replacement for the one that I
> fried about 100 hours ago. No sign of external damage or discoloration on
> the new switch.
>
> My failed switch was installed in 2005, purchased somewhat earlier. I had
> two switches that had loose rivets, so I'm wondering if there was a QC
> problem with the Carling switches made about that time. It would be
> interesting to see the date codes on the failed switches.
>
> My failed switch says C0344 Mexico. My guess was this is a date code (44th
> week in 2003?). The one Bob analysed says 9936 Mexico on it.
>
> Vern
>
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
3.8 Hours Total Time and holding
Cables for your rotary installation - http://roblinstores.com/cables/
Message 9
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Subject: | Switch problem ***MAJOR UPDATE*** |
I will check this for sure, but the evidence is contrary. If it was the
crimps that were the source, they should all be discolored. In addition, I
felt the terminals when operating to see if they were loose. They were not,
and they were not as hot as the switch.
I pulled apart one of the failed switches (from one of the two that failed
in 2006) and it was damaged, similar to Bob's failure analysis on his
website.
The terminals are the Avikrimp type and attached using a proper ratcheting
crimp tool.
I've ordered a batch of Honeywell Micro Switch switches as replacements. I
will pull all of the offending Carling switches and redo the burnt fastons
on the Strobe supply switch (for the second time). I will probably
sacrifice another one of the Carling switches to failure analysis gods to
see if the internals are fried like the first one.
Fortunately, the switches run in a row along the bottom of my panel and are
easy to replace. See
http://www.vx-aviation.com/rv-9a/photos/Electrical/115_1542_1.jpg. It
should only take me an hour to do the major offenders and get back in the
air. Right now, I've grounded my a/c due to this problem.
Stay tuned.
Vern
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob White
Sent: September 10, 2008 6:20 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch problem ***MAJOR UPDATE***
Hi Vern,
Check the crimps on your faston connectors. If the crimps are getting hot
they could be conducting heat into the switch tabs. The simplest way to
check would be to make a male faston jumper and replace one of the switches
that is getting hot, then turn on the master.
It might be a bad batch of switches, but it would be worth checking the
crimps before pulling all of them out.
Bob W.
On Wed, 10 Sep 2008 15:33:02 -0700
"Vernon Little" <rv-9a-online@telus.net> wrote:
> --> <rv-9a-online@telus.net>
>
> I was wrong about my replacement switch--- I was looking at the wrong
> one. In fact, it IS failing, and the fast-on insulation is discolored.
> I discovered this by detecting overheating switches on my panel today.
>
> Furthermore, not only was the STROBE switch very hot, but the WIG-WAG
> and TAXI switches were hot as well. I discovered this today. On the
> ground, my panel was feeling warm, and I touched the back these
> switches. I burned my finger on the STROBE switch (hurt for an hour),
> and the other switches were hot as well, but not quite as bad.
>
> These are the switches that are most often ON in flight (current flows
> through one pole of the TAXI and LANDING switches when WIG-WAG is on).
> I turned them OFF, turned on my LANDING light switch, and it got hot
> as well.
>
>
> None of the other switches (MASTER (replaced once), PITOT (rarely
> used), NAV (rarely used), FLAPS and BOOST PUMP and AVIONICS were warm
> when operated.
>
> So I now have four more switch failures! This is now a total of 6
> failures in my a/c in 2.5 years. All are Carling switches.
>
> I will be replacing all of the heavy load carrying switches in my A/C
> immediately with another brand. In my opinion, all of these Carling
> switches are suspect and everyone should check them for overheating.
>
> Bob, this looks like a serious issue, in need of some further pursuit!
>
> Thanks,
> Vern
>
>
> --> <rv-9a-online@telus.net>
>
> I checked the switch that I installed as a replacement for the one
> that I fried about 100 hours ago. No sign of external damage or
> discoloration on the new switch.
>
> My failed switch was installed in 2005, purchased somewhat earlier. I
> had two switches that had loose rivets, so I'm wondering if there was
> a QC problem with the Carling switches made about that time. It would
> be interesting to see the date codes on the failed switches.
>
> My failed switch says C0344 Mexico. My guess was this is a date code
> (44th week in 2003?). The one Bob analysed says 9936 Mexico on it.
>
> Vern
>
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
3.8 Hours Total Time and holding
Cables for your rotary installation - http://roblinstores.com/cables/
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