---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 09/10/08: 9 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:36 AM - SD-8, voltage regulator and OV module (Etienne Phillips) 2. 05:13 AM - Re: SD-8, voltage regulator and OV module (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 3. 05:13 AM - Re: SD-8, voltage regulator and OV module (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 4. 05:36 AM - Tefzel Blade Wire Strippers (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 5. 06:43 AM - Re: SD-8, voltage regulator and OV module (Etienne Phillips) 6. 07:33 AM - Re: Electronics 101...Advanced. (Eric M. Jones) 7. 03:35 PM - Re: Switch problem ***MAJOR UPDATE*** (Vernon Little) 8. 06:22 PM - Re: Switch problem ***MAJOR UPDATE*** (Bob White) 9. 07:31 PM - Re: Switch problem ***MAJOR UPDATE*** (Vernon Little) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:36:53 AM PST US From: "Etienne Phillips" Subject: AeroElectric-List: SD-8, voltage regulator and OV module Hi all I would like to install a SD-8 into my currently alternatorless VFR aircraft, but I'm a bit confused... What voltage regulator do I need to use? I'm planning on using the 504-1 OV module, with the standard 5A circuit breaker. I'd also prefer not to have another switch between the alternator and the main bus. If I need to disconnect the alternator from the bus, I'll pull the breaker, which will de-power the relay in the OV circuit. Thanks Etienne ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:13:53 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: SD-8, voltage regulator and OV module At 09:32 AM 9/10/2008 +0200, you wrote: >Hi all > >I would like to install a SD-8 into my currently alternatorless VFR >aircraft, but I'm a bit confused... What voltage regulator do I need to >use? I'm planning on using the 504-1 OV module, with the standard 5A >circuit breaker. > >I'd also prefer not to have another switch between the alternator and the >main bus. If I need to disconnect the alternator from the bus, I'll pull >the breaker, which will de-power the relay in the OV circuit. that will work bob . . . ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:13:53 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: SD-8, voltage regulator and OV module At 09:32 AM 9/10/2008 +0200, you wrote: >Hi all > >I would like to install a SD-8 into my currently alternatorless VFR >aircraft, but I'm a bit confused... What voltage regulator do I need to >use? I'm planning on using the 504-1 OV module, with the standard 5A >circuit breaker. The regulator comes with the SD-8 >I'd also prefer not to have another switch between the alternator and the >main bus. If I need to disconnect the alternator from the bus, I'll pull >the breaker, which will de-power the relay in the OV circuit. that will work bob . . . ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:36:31 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: AeroElectric-List: Tefzel Blade Wire Strippers The wire strippers I mentioned a few days ago are in stock and listed at: https://matronics.com/aeroelectric/Catalog/AECcatalog.html These turned out to be in very good shape. Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ---------------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:43:55 AM PST US From: "Etienne Phillips" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: SD-8, voltage regulator and OV module Great! One less thing to buy ;-) Thanks Bob 2008/9/10 Robert L. Nuckolls, III > nuckolls.bob@cox.net> > > At 09:32 AM 9/10/2008 +0200, you wrote: > >> Hi all >> >> I would like to install a SD-8 into my currently alternatorless VFR >> aircraft, but I'm a bit confused... What voltage regulator do I need to use? >> I'm planning on using the 504-1 OV module, with the standard 5A circuit >> breaker. >> > > The regulator comes with the SD-8 > > > I'd also prefer not to have another switch between the alternator and the >> main bus. If I need to disconnect the alternator from the bus, I'll pull the >> breaker, which will de-power the relay in the OV circuit. >> > > that will work > > bob . . . > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:33:29 AM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Electronics 101...Advanced. From: "Eric M. Jones" Mike, I am certain there are, at least among my customers. With reference to the negative ground, an extremely high impedance voltmeter will measure voltages on everything, everybody, everywhere that is not firmly connected to ground. Even the disconnected output terminal of a mechanical relay or switch, or disconnected wires or metal will display a voltage. Carlos, A battery is only useful if it can deliver current (or power). Battery test meters differ from voltmeters because they impose a small load on the battery being measured. For 1.5V AA cells a load of 100 mA will do, so a load R of 1.5V/0.100A. So a 15 Ohm load will do while measuring the voltage across the cell. "Democracy is the theory that the common people know what they want and deserve to get it good and hard." -- H. L. Mencken -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones@charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3586#203586 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 03:35:03 PM PST US From: "Vernon Little" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Switch problem ***MAJOR UPDATE*** I was wrong about my replacement switch--- I was looking at the wrong one. In fact, it IS failing, and the fast-on insulation is discolored. I discovered this by detecting overheating switches on my panel today. Furthermore, not only was the STROBE switch very hot, but the WIG-WAG and TAXI switches were hot as well. I discovered this today. On the ground, my panel was feeling warm, and I touched the back these switches. I burned my finger on the STROBE switch (hurt for an hour), and the other switches were hot as well, but not quite as bad. These are the switches that are most often ON in flight (current flows through one pole of the TAXI and LANDING switches when WIG-WAG is on). I turned them OFF, turned on my LANDING light switch, and it got hot as well. None of the other switches (MASTER (replaced once), PITOT (rarely used), NAV (rarely used), FLAPS and BOOST PUMP and AVIONICS were warm when operated. So I now have four more switch failures! This is now a total of 6 failures in my a/c in 2.5 years. All are Carling switches. I will be replacing all of the heavy load carrying switches in my A/C immediately with another brand. In my opinion, all of these Carling switches are suspect and everyone should check them for overheating. Bob, this looks like a serious issue, in need of some further pursuit! Thanks, Vern --> I checked the switch that I installed as a replacement for the one that I fried about 100 hours ago. No sign of external damage or discoloration on the new switch. My failed switch was installed in 2005, purchased somewhat earlier. I had two switches that had loose rivets, so I'm wondering if there was a QC problem with the Carling switches made about that time. It would be interesting to see the date codes on the failed switches. My failed switch says C0344 Mexico. My guess was this is a date code (44th week in 2003?). The one Bob analysed says 9936 Mexico on it. Vern ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 06:22:17 PM PST US From: Bob White Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch problem ***MAJOR UPDATE*** Hi Vern, Check the crimps on your faston connectors. If the crimps are getting hot they could be conducting heat into the switch tabs. The simplest way to check would be to make a male faston jumper and replace one of the switches that is getting hot, then turn on the master. It might be a bad batch of switches, but it would be worth checking the crimps before pulling all of them out. Bob W. On Wed, 10 Sep 2008 15:33:02 -0700 "Vernon Little" wrote: > > I was wrong about my replacement switch--- I was looking at the wrong one. > In fact, it IS failing, and the fast-on insulation is discolored. I > discovered this by detecting overheating switches on my panel today. > > Furthermore, not only was the STROBE switch very hot, but the WIG-WAG and > TAXI switches were hot as well. I discovered this today. On the ground, my > panel was feeling warm, and I touched the back these switches. I burned my > finger on the STROBE switch (hurt for an hour), and the other switches were > hot as well, but not quite as bad. > > These are the switches that are most often ON in flight (current flows > through one pole of the TAXI and LANDING switches when WIG-WAG is on). I > turned them OFF, turned on my LANDING light switch, and it got hot as well. > > > None of the other switches (MASTER (replaced once), PITOT (rarely used), NAV > (rarely used), FLAPS and BOOST PUMP and AVIONICS were warm when operated. > > So I now have four more switch failures! This is now a total of 6 failures > in my a/c in 2.5 years. All are Carling switches. > > I will be replacing all of the heavy load carrying switches in my A/C > immediately with another brand. In my opinion, all of these Carling > switches are suspect and everyone should check them for overheating. > > Bob, this looks like a serious issue, in need of some further pursuit! > > Thanks, > Vern > > > --> > > I checked the switch that I installed as a replacement for the one that I > fried about 100 hours ago. No sign of external damage or discoloration on > the new switch. > > My failed switch was installed in 2005, purchased somewhat earlier. I had > two switches that had loose rivets, so I'm wondering if there was a QC > problem with the Carling switches made about that time. It would be > interesting to see the date codes on the failed switches. > > My failed switch says C0344 Mexico. My guess was this is a date code (44th > week in 2003?). The one Bob analysed says 9936 Mexico on it. > > Vern > -- N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com 3.8 Hours Total Time and holding Cables for your rotary installation - http://roblinstores.com/cables/ ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 07:31:06 PM PST US From: "Vernon Little" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Switch problem ***MAJOR UPDATE*** I will check this for sure, but the evidence is contrary. If it was the crimps that were the source, they should all be discolored. In addition, I felt the terminals when operating to see if they were loose. They were not, and they were not as hot as the switch. I pulled apart one of the failed switches (from one of the two that failed in 2006) and it was damaged, similar to Bob's failure analysis on his website. The terminals are the Avikrimp type and attached using a proper ratcheting crimp tool. I've ordered a batch of Honeywell Micro Switch switches as replacements. I will pull all of the offending Carling switches and redo the burnt fastons on the Strobe supply switch (for the second time). I will probably sacrifice another one of the Carling switches to failure analysis gods to see if the internals are fried like the first one. Fortunately, the switches run in a row along the bottom of my panel and are easy to replace. See http://www.vx-aviation.com/rv-9a/photos/Electrical/115_1542_1.jpg. It should only take me an hour to do the major offenders and get back in the air. Right now, I've grounded my a/c due to this problem. Stay tuned. Vern -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob White Sent: September 10, 2008 6:20 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch problem ***MAJOR UPDATE*** Hi Vern, Check the crimps on your faston connectors. If the crimps are getting hot they could be conducting heat into the switch tabs. The simplest way to check would be to make a male faston jumper and replace one of the switches that is getting hot, then turn on the master. It might be a bad batch of switches, but it would be worth checking the crimps before pulling all of them out. Bob W. On Wed, 10 Sep 2008 15:33:02 -0700 "Vernon Little" wrote: > --> > > I was wrong about my replacement switch--- I was looking at the wrong > one. In fact, it IS failing, and the fast-on insulation is discolored. > I discovered this by detecting overheating switches on my panel today. > > Furthermore, not only was the STROBE switch very hot, but the WIG-WAG > and TAXI switches were hot as well. I discovered this today. On the > ground, my panel was feeling warm, and I touched the back these > switches. I burned my finger on the STROBE switch (hurt for an hour), > and the other switches were hot as well, but not quite as bad. > > These are the switches that are most often ON in flight (current flows > through one pole of the TAXI and LANDING switches when WIG-WAG is on). > I turned them OFF, turned on my LANDING light switch, and it got hot > as well. > > > None of the other switches (MASTER (replaced once), PITOT (rarely > used), NAV (rarely used), FLAPS and BOOST PUMP and AVIONICS were warm > when operated. > > So I now have four more switch failures! This is now a total of 6 > failures in my a/c in 2.5 years. All are Carling switches. > > I will be replacing all of the heavy load carrying switches in my A/C > immediately with another brand. In my opinion, all of these Carling > switches are suspect and everyone should check them for overheating. > > Bob, this looks like a serious issue, in need of some further pursuit! > > Thanks, > Vern > > > --> > > I checked the switch that I installed as a replacement for the one > that I fried about 100 hours ago. No sign of external damage or > discoloration on the new switch. > > My failed switch was installed in 2005, purchased somewhat earlier. I > had two switches that had loose rivets, so I'm wondering if there was > a QC problem with the Carling switches made about that time. It would > be interesting to see the date codes on the failed switches. > > My failed switch says C0344 Mexico. My guess was this is a date code > (44th week in 2003?). The one Bob analysed says 9936 Mexico on it. > > Vern > -- N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com 3.8 Hours Total Time and holding Cables for your rotary installation - http://roblinstores.com/cables/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message aeroelectric-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/aeroelectric-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/aeroelectric-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.