Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:01 AM - Re: Unhappy Instrumentation on Jabiru 3300 (rampil)
2. 09:34 AM - Wiring the G207 Ray Allen Grip ()
3. 10:17 AM - Re: Wiring the G207 Ray Allen Grip (Bill Denton)
4. 02:16 PM - jab 3300 ground straps (icubob@newnorth.net)
5. 06:36 PM - Problem solved- was:Unhappy Instrumentation on Jabiru 3300 (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
6. 08:38 PM - B and C Batteries ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Unhappy Instrumentation on Jabiru 3300 |
Spikes as you describe indicate a serious deficiency of inductors
and capacitors in a switching circuit. I have no idea whats in the Jab
regulator, but for sure, it's non-linear and creating switching transients.
On the other hand, it seems likely that a lot of engine sensor monitors
are designed by people who do not seem aware of Shannon's Sampling
Theorem. Dedicated EGT / CHT input lines should be heavily prefiltered
before digitizing since there is no real signal above 0.5 Hz or so. In a
properly designed Engine Monitor, the front end should completely filter out these
transients, even if they do exist. You could post process the
data, but with the presence of transients like you see, the output would
be garbage from aliasing. Really guys, this is first year EE stuff, and you
should complain to GRT about why their design is sensitive to this noise
when it cheaply could be insensitive.
Ira
(I'm not an EE, but I played one for 4 years of Grad School)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8518#208518
Message 2
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| Subject: | Wiring the G207 Ray Allen Grip |
I am installing a single G207 hand grip on my grocery getter and need
some help with the two auxiliary switches at the top or front of the
grip. I purchased the unit complete with two push button switches at the
top.
If you are familiar with the G207 there are 4 flush mounted buttons on
top with one PTT on the front of the switch. There is an option for
either two toggle or two push button switches just in front of the 4
flush mounted buttons.
The PTT and four flush buttons are working as designed with no issues. I
use them for aileron trim and elevator trim. I want to use the 2
optional buttons for the rudder trim.
Ray Allen does not offer any ideas or schematics indicating there are
just too may options for wiring them. I want to see if anyone has used
them for a trim motor (in my case the rudder trim) and how they finally
wired them up. The switches have 3 connection points each and there is
continuity between two of them at all times. The 3rd is closed when the
button is pushed.
I have tried the obvious, ground to open, hot and switch to closed and
so on - and the reverse. Nothing so far but blown fuses.
I am using the T2-7A trim motor for the rudder which is a 5 wire unit.
Thanks,
Glenn
Message 3
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| Subject: | Wiring the G207 Ray Allen Grip |
Did you look at Figure 2 on Page 4 of this document:
http://www.rayallencompany.com/RACmedia/instructionsT2andT3.pdf
Thanks!
Bill Denton
bdenton@bdenton.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
longg@pjm.com
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 12:33 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Wiring the G207 Ray Allen Grip
I am installing a single G207 hand grip on my grocery getter and need
some help with the two auxiliary switches at the top or front of the
grip. I purchased the unit complete with two push button switches at the
top.
If you are familiar with the G207 there are 4 flush mounted buttons on
top with one PTT on the front of the switch. There is an option for
either two toggle or two push button switches just in front of the 4
flush mounted buttons.
The PTT and four flush buttons are working as designed with no issues. I
use them for aileron trim and elevator trim. I want to use the 2
optional buttons for the rudder trim.
Ray Allen does not offer any ideas or schematics indicating there are
just too may options for wiring them. I want to see if anyone has used
them for a trim motor (in my case the rudder trim) and how they finally
wired them up. The switches have 3 connection points each and there is
continuity between two of them at all times. The 3rd is closed when the
button is pushed.
I have tried the obvious, ground to open, hot and switch to closed and
so on - and the reverse. Nothing so far but blown fuses.
I am using the T2-7A trim motor for the rudder which is a 5 wire unit.
Thanks,
Glenn
Message 4
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| Subject: | jab 3300 ground straps |
bob,
my jab is grounded with 4ga from the battery to the 1/2'' thick
aluminum plate which attaches the engine to the engine mount. a common
place i understand. a recent service bulletin recommends grounding at
a 3/16''bolt which attaches the starter to the plate. supposed to
increase the voltage by .4 to the starter. i wat to run my groung
cable to the starter and with a ''groung strap'' also ground from the
starter bolt to the alum. plate. i would solder the strap to the cable
in the connector that attaches the cable to the starter bolt. my
question is this....should i use ''4ga'' strap [from napa and as big
as a house] or will 10 ga strap be sufficient considering that i am
grounding in the 2 locations, 8'' from each other?
- thanks for an answer to a wordy question,
bob noffs
Message 5
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| Subject: | Problem solved- was:Unhappy Instrumentation on Jabiru |
3300
In a message dated 10/13/2008 1:14:05 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
selwyn@ellisworks.com.au writes:
These seem to work and have been credited with solving some radio noise
problems on Jabirus. I have no idea if they will have any effect on your EIS
problems.
>>>
Appreciate the information- according to the link provided the Powermate is
limited to 8 amps and is unfortunately not a candidate for the Jabiru
2200/3300 engine with the standard alternator and rectifier/regulator that provides
20 amps continuous.
I'd like to reiterate that the problem originally posted has been
successfully resolved by antagonist/victim experimentation. Antagonist was the
right
distributor and the victim was the VDO fuel pressure sensor provided by GRT
and originally installed near the distributor and harness. Relocating the
sensor approximately 3 inches or more from the distributor has completely
eliminated all of the spikes into the EIS and all related phantom EIS and EFIS
engine page alarms. Subsequent re-locations on two other aircraft have confirmed
the original results.
Time to focus on the next dragon...
Mark Phillips
**************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination.
Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out
(http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002)
Message 6
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| Subject: | B and C Batteries |
10/13/2008
Hello Fritz, The last battery that I bought from B&C was an Odyssey PC680
with a B&C label stuck on it.
I would expect that some of their other batteries are also Odyssey models.
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
------------------------------------------------------------------
Time: 07:20:59 PM PST US
From: D Fritz <dfritzj@yahoo.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: B and C Batteries
All,
Has anyone got any information regarding B and C batteries and how they sta
ck up against the Odyssey batteries?- I'm building a Velocity with a Delt
ahawk diesel engine and will probably need two at about 25 AH a piece, so c
osts could add up.- Any other suggested batteries out there to start a bi
g Diesel?
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