AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Sun 10/19/08


Total Messages Posted: 8



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 01:20 PM - Wing-to-Fuselage electrical connections (tomcostanza)
     2. 03:51 PM - Re: Wing-to-Fuselage electrical connections (ceengland@bellsouth.net)
     3. 03:53 PM - Re: Wing-to-Fuselage electrical connections (Carlos Trigo)
     4. 05:37 PM - Re: Wing-to-Fuselage electrical connections (Ron Quillin)
     5. 05:57 PM - Routing wires point-to-point (Sam Hoskins)
     6. 06:04 PM - Re: Wing-to-Fuselage electrical connections (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     7. 06:53 PM - Re: Routing wires point-to-point (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     8. 07:22 PM - Re: Routing wires point-to-point (Dale Rogers)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 01:20:50 PM PST US
    Subject: Wing-to-Fuselage electrical connections
    From: "tomcostanza" <Tom@CostanzaAndAssociates.com>
    Gentlemen, I'm at a point where I need to decide how to connect wires in the wing, to the corresponding wires in the fuselage. For DC stuff, I had planned to use the wiring connectors one often sees connecting a trailer to a truck (and as seen on aeroelectric.com). I'm now thinking that since I will need to splice these connectors into the wiring anyway (2 splices for each wire), I might as well just splice the WIRES together and eliminate the connector (1 splice per wire). But I'm using wingtip nav antennas, and I'm wondering whether to use BNC connectors or splice the coax. I don't know which will create more of an impedance mismatch or RF loss, but I'm thinking for a receiver, it doesn't make a whole lot of difference. What do you think? -------- Clear Skies, Tom Costanza Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9384#209384


    Message 2


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    Time: 03:51:02 PM PST US
    From: ceengland@bellsouth.net
    Subject: Re: Wing-to-Fuselage electrical connections


    Message 3


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    Time: 03:53:25 PM PST US
    From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
    Subject: Wing-to-Fuselage electrical connections
    Tom This is not an answer to your question, because I don't know it. I will be another one to profit from the responses you will get, because I didn't make those connections either. By the way, you are talking about "wingtip nav antennas", how many did you install, and which type are they? Carlos > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of tomcostanza > Sent: domingo, 19 de Outubro de 2008 21:19 > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Wing-to-Fuselage electrical connections > > <Tom@CostanzaAndAssociates.com> > > Gentlemen, > > I'm at a point where I need to decide how to connect wires in the wing, to the > corresponding wires in the fuselage. For DC stuff, I had planned to use the wiring > connectors one often sees connecting a trailer to a truck (and as seen on > aeroelectric.com). I'm now thinking that since I will need to splice these connectors > into the wiring anyway (2 splices for each wire), I might as well just splice the > WIRES together and eliminate the connector (1 splice per wire). But I'm using > wingtip nav antennas, and I'm wondering whether to use BNC connectors or splice > the coax. I don't know which will create more of an impedance mismatch or RF > loss, but I'm thinking for a receiver, it doesn't make a whole lot of difference. What > do you think? > > -------- > Clear Skies, > Tom Costanza


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:37:17 PM PST US
    Subject: Wing-to-Fuselage electrical connections
    From: Ron Quillin <rjquillin@gmail.com>
    At 15:52 10/19/2008, you wrote: >But I'm using > wingtip nav antennas, and I'm wondering whether to use BNC > connectors or splice > the coax. I don't know which will create more of an impedance > mismatch or RF > loss, but I'm thinking for a receiver, it doesn't make a whole lot > of difference. What > do you think? Only one mans' opinion Tom, but given the choice of "splicing" coax or using a pair of connectors; for me it's an absolute brainer. Connectors, by all means. Minimum signal loss due to impedance mismatch and contiguous shield to prevent unwanted signal ingress. And given proper connectors much simpler and faster to reliably terminate. Ron Q.


    Message 5


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    Time: 05:57:15 PM PST US
    From: "Sam Hoskins" <sam.hoskins@gmail.com>
    Subject: Routing wires point-to-point
    I am getting to route wires, aft of the firewall, and was wondering what kind of methods guys used. The first time I did this, 20+ years ago, the result was a spaghetti bowl. I am thinking of hanging some loops of wire ties in various spots, then running wires along those paths. When all the wires are in, I would secure with the cromagnum** wire ties, rather than the more elegant lacing. It's all hard to access and the ties are decidedly easier. One recent post referred to wire loom. Is that easy to work with? What about making short conduits? Lets hear you. Sam Hoskins Murphysboro, IL www.samhoskins.blogspot.com


    Message 6


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    Time: 06:04:36 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Wing-to-Fuselage electrical connections
    At 01:19 PM 10/19/2008 -0700, you wrote: ><Tom@CostanzaAndAssociates.com> > >Gentlemen, > >I'm at a point where I need to decide how to connect wires in the wing, to >the corresponding wires in the fuselage. For DC stuff, I had planned to >use the wiring connectors one often sees connecting a trailer to a truck >(and as seen on aeroelectric.com). I'm now thinking that since I will >need to splice these connectors into the wiring anyway (2 splices for each >wire), I might as well just splice the WIRES together and eliminate the >connector (1 splice per wire). But I'm using wingtip nav antennas, and >I'm wondering whether to use BNC connectors or splice the coax. I don't >know which will create more of an impedance mismatch or RF loss, but I'm >thinking for a receiver, it doesn't make a whole lot of difference. What >do you think? The airplanes I fly are on average, 15+ years old. I'll bet not a one of them has ever had the wings off. If I were building an airplane, wings would be wired as they are built and 10' or so pigtails left at the fuselage end coiled up for later routing into the fuselage and attachment to their respective destinations . . .but with a "service loop" about 4-6" in diameter (12-18" of slack wire) under the wing root fairing. Should it become necessary to EVER remove the wings, then cut wires and/or coaxes in the middle of their service loops. When replacing the wings, permanent splices (and mated coax cable connectors) http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/Coax/BNC_Cable_Female_1.jpg or http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/Coax/BNC_Bulkhead_Female.jpg and http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/Coax/BNC_Cable_Male.jpg are in order for re-attaching the wings and associated wiring. For permanent splices, these critters are certainly an option . . . http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/PIDG-Splices.jpg these are also favored by the grey beards for closing cut lines but leaving a service connection behind . . . http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/ksplc2.jpg If you wanted to use one one of these style connectors http://aeroelectric.com/articles/wingwire/wingwire.html you could also consider this technique for making high-quality, permanent splices of ship's wiring to the connector's pigtails . . . http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Solder_Lap_Splicing/Solder_Lap_Splices.html Inclusion of a "service loop" of excess wire at time of original fabrication allows for a dozen or more cut-out-and-replace operations on individual wires over the lifetime of the airplane. Finally, I had a chance to fiddle with these connectors while wiring Ol' Blue (My hand-me-down '87 Jimmy) to tow a trailer. This was the first time I'd put my hands on this combination of connectors: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/Power/Trailer_Lights_Plug.jpg http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/Power/Trailer_Lights_Jack.jpg This mated pair of connectors offers some interesting design features. The male pins in the jack are solid bifurcated brass that plug into seamless tube sockets in the plug housing. The spring loaded lid has a retaining dog that holds the plug engaged the jack. These are only slightly heavier than their mil-spec counterparts and they're a whole lot cheaper. The only disappointment was the wire attach methodology that runs a screw thread down against the wire strands. I installed wires by cutting 2x long, folding the strands back and soldering them such that they became a solid, solder encased "plug". run the screw down against the plug nice and tight and follow up with an encapsulation of E6000 not unlike what we did here http://aeroelectric.com/articles/macservo/macservo.html to deal with those pesky little 26AWG wires on a RayAllen actuator. The wiring jack can probably be mounted to fuselage skin under the wing root fairing. Bob . . .


    Message 7


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    Time: 06:53:58 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Routing wires point-to-point
    At 07:56 PM 10/19/2008 -0500, you wrote: >I am getting to route wires, aft of the firewall, and was wondering what >kind of methods guys used. The first time I did this, 20+ years ago, the >result was a spaghetti bowl. > >I am thinking of hanging some loops of wire ties in various spots, then >running wires along those paths. When all the wires are in, I would >secure with the cromagnum wire ties, rather than the more elegant >lacing. It's all hard to access and the ties are decidedly easier. > >One recent post referred to wire loom. Is that easy to work with? What >about making short conduits? Lay out your wire routes for finished bundles. Run some Nylaflow 1/4" tubing on little plastic wire bundle clamps. You can get the tubing from hardware stores and big boxes like Home Depot. It's used to plumb up ice-makers in refrigerators . . . among other things. The 1/4" clamps can be had from most 'real' hardware stores . . . or you can simply make up a little band clamp out of tin-can metal. These are temporary. Install the clamps at the same attach points that you plan to use for finished bundle supports. Use bond studs, nutplates, etc. Lay your 'real' wire bundles up along side these Nylaflow road markers. Get a wad of el-chesso tie wraps from Harbor Freight to hold each new wire into place cutting off ties underneath new wires as they become surplus. After your bundles are all finished. cut out segments of Nylaflow and Replace throwaway ties with good tie wraps or string ties. Replace your temporary bundle support clamps with the real ones. This technique allows you to set the wire-way for bundles that are many strands from self-supporting. This allows you to apply finishing restraints in an orderly cutting the forms away as you go after the bundles are completely finished. You can also use heavy copper wire #10AWG solid ground wire is generally stiff enough. You may find other materials that will do as well. Bob . . . ----------------------------------------) ( . . . a long habit of not thinking ) ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial ) ( appearance of being right . . . ) ( ) ( -Thomas Paine 1776- ) ----------------------------------------


    Message 8


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    Time: 07:22:58 PM PST US
    From: Dale Rogers <dale.r@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Routing wires point-to-point
    Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > <nuckolls.bob@cox.net> > > Lay out your wire routes for finished bundles. Run > some Nylaflow 1/4" tubing on little plastic wire > bundle clamps. You can get the tubing from hardware > stores and big boxes like Home Depot. It's used > to plumb up ice-makers in refrigerators . . . among > other things. The 1/4" clamps can be had from most > 'real' hardware stores . . . or you can simply make up > a little band clamp out of tin-can metal. These are > temporary. Install the clamps at the same attach points > that you plan to use for finished bundle supports. > Use bond studs, nutplates, etc. > > Lay your 'real' wire bundles up along side these > Nylaflow road markers. Get a wad of el-chesso tie > wraps from Harbor Freight to hold each new wire into > place cutting off ties underneath new wires as they > become surplus. > > After your bundles are all finished. cut out segments > of Nylaflow and Replace throwaway ties with good tie > wraps or string ties. Replace your temporary bundle > support clamps with the real ones. > > This technique allows you to set the wire-way for > bundles that are many strands from self-supporting. > This allows you to apply finishing restraints in an > orderly cutting the forms away as you go after the > bundles are completely finished. > > You can also use heavy copper wire #10AWG solid > ground wire is generally stiff enough. You may find > other materials that will do as well. > It might be worth noting that the new self-sticking (double- sided) velcro strips make excellent temporary, reusable bundle ties. When done with the wiring, replace them with one's preferred permanent ties, and reuse the temps on the next bundle being assembled. And they are easily available from your friendly local H.D. aviation supply store. (Home Depot) Dale R.




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