Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:57 AM - Re: Routing wires point-to-point (jaybannist@cs.com)
2. 05:07 AM - Re: Routing wires point-to-point (Sam Hoskins)
3. 05:19 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 10/19/08 (glen matejcek)
4. 05:37 AM - Re: Wing-to-Fuselage electrical connections (tomcostanza)
5. 06:06 AM - Re: Routing wires point-to-point (Ernest Christley)
6. 06:12 AM - Re: Dry Cell Batteries? (Beemer)
7. 06:39 AM - Re: Wiring the G207 Ray Allen Grip ()
8. 06:53 AM - Re: Routing wires point-to-point ()
9. 06:59 AM - Grounding (Dave Leikam)
10. 08:52 AM - Fuse block (Bob McArdle)
11. 11:08 AM - Re: Routing wires point-to-point (Speedy11@aol.com)
12. 12:38 PM - Re: Fuse block ()
13. 02:59 PM - Re: Fuse block (Phil Samuelian)
14. 03:42 PM - Re: Fuse block (Joe Ronco)
15. 04:11 PM - Re: Fuse block (Ron Shannon)
16. 04:52 PM - Head Set Jack shoring out (Emrath)
17. 05:04 PM - Re: Re: Dry Cell Batteries? (Sam Hoskins)
18. 06:12 PM - Re: Re: Dry Cell Batteries? (Sam Hoskins)
19. 06:23 PM - Re: Fuse block (James H Nelson)
20. 07:40 PM - Re: Re: Dry Cell Batteries? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 07:48 PM - Re: Fuse block (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
22. 08:14 PM - Re: Grounding (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
23. 08:19 PM - Re: Head Set Jack shoring out (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
24. 08:20 PM - Re: Routing wires point-to-point (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Routing wires point-to-point |
I found a very temporary type of "velcro" at the garden department of Lowes.?
It is green in color since it is meant for use on plant materials. It is "sticky"
enough, but not nearly as hard to un-do as regular Velcro. Great for temporary
bundling.
I also found a "plenum rated" type of Velcro that I used as a permanent tie in
several places. This material is fire resistant and made for above-the-ceiling
wiring (where it is required by most building codes) and in data centers.
Jay in Dallas
-----Original Message-----
From: Dale Rogers <dale.r@cox.net>
Sent: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 9:22 pm
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Routing wires point-to-point
?
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:?
> <nuckolls.bob@cox.net>?
>?
> Lay out your wire routes for finished bundles. Run?
> some Nylaflow 1/4" tubing on little plastic wire?
> bundle clamps. You can get the tubing from hardware?
> stores and big boxes like Home Depot. It's used?
> to plumb up ice-makers in refrigerators . . . among?
> other things. The 1/4" clamps can be had from most?
> 'real' hardware stores . . . or you can simply make up?
> a little band clamp out of tin-can metal. These are?
> temporary. Install the clamps at the same attach points?
> that you plan to use for finished bundle supports.?
> Use bond studs, nutplates, etc.?
>?
> Lay your 'real' wire bundles up along side these?
> Nylaflow road markers. Get a wad of el-chesso tie?
> wraps from Harbor Freight to hold each new wire into?
> place cutting off ties underneath new wires as they?
> become surplus.?
>?
> After your bundles are all finished. cut out segments?
> of Nylaflow and Replace throwaway ties with good tie?
> wraps or string ties. Replace your temporary bundle?
> support clamps with the real ones.?
>?
> This technique allows you to set the wire-way for?
> bundles that are many strands from self-supporting.?
> This allows you to apply finishing restraints in an?
> orderly cutting the forms away as you go after the?
> bundles are completely finished.?
>?
> You can also use heavy copper wire #10AWG solid?
> ground wire is generally stiff enough. You may find?
> other materials that will do as well.?
>?
?
It might be worth noting that the new self-sticking (double-?
sided) velcro strips make excellent temporary, reusable?
bundle ties. When done with the wiring, replace them with?
one's preferred permanent ties, and reuse the temps on the?
next bundle being assembled. And they are easily available?
from your friendly local H.D. aviation supply store.?
?
(Home Depot)?
?
Dale R.?
?
?
?
________________________________________________________________________
Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Routing wires point-to-point |
Sounds like an excellent tip, Bob. I even have some Nylaflow tubing in the
hangar.
I'll start today.
Sam Hoskins
www.samhoskins.blogspot.com
On Sun, Oct 19, 2008 at 8:52 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@cox.net> wrote:
> nuckolls.bob@cox.net>
>
> At 07:56 PM 10/19/2008 -0500, you wrote:
>
>> I am getting to route wires, aft of the firewall, and was wondering what
>> kind of methods guys used. The first time I did this, 20+ years ago, the
>> result was a spaghetti bowl.
>>
>> I am thinking of hanging some loops of wire ties in various spots, then
>> running wires along those paths. When all the wires are in, I would secure
>> with the cromagnum wire ties, rather than the more elegant lacing. It's all
>> hard to access and the ties are decidedly easier.
>>
>> One recent post referred to wire loom. Is that easy to work with? What
>> about making short conduits?
>>
>
> Lay out your wire routes for finished bundles. Run
> some Nylaflow 1/4" tubing on little plastic wire
> bundle clamps. You can get the tubing from hardware
> stores and big boxes like Home Depot. It's used
> to plumb up ice-makers in refrigerators . . . among
> other things. The 1/4" clamps can be had from most
> 'real' hardware stores . . . or you can simply make up
> a little band clamp out of tin-can metal. These are
> temporary. Install the clamps at the same attach points
> that you plan to use for finished bundle supports.
> Use bond studs, nutplates, etc.
>
> Lay your 'real' wire bundles up along side these
> Nylaflow road markers. Get a wad of el-chesso tie
> wraps from Harbor Freight to hold each new wire into
> place cutting off ties underneath new wires as they
> become surplus.
>
> After your bundles are all finished. cut out segments
> of Nylaflow and Replace throwaway ties with good tie
> wraps or string ties. Replace your temporary bundle
> support clamps with the real ones.
>
> This technique allows you to set the wire-way for
> bundles that are many strands from self-supporting.
> This allows you to apply finishing restraints in an
> orderly cutting the forms away as you go after the
> bundles are completely finished.
>
> You can also use heavy copper wire #10AWG solid
> ground wire is generally stiff enough. You may find
> other materials that will do as well.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------)
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | RE: AeroElectric-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 10/19/08 |
>If I were building an airplane, wings would be wired as
>they are built and 10' or so pigtails left at the fuselage
>end coiled up for later routing into the fuselage and
>>attachment to their respective destinations . . .but
>with a "service loop" about 4-6" in diameter (12-18"
>of slack wire) under the wing root fairing.
>
>Should it become necessary to EVER remove the wings,
>then cut wires and/or coaxes in the middle of their
>service loops. When replacing the wings, permanent
>splices (and mated coax cable connectors)...
Precisely the approach I used. I would add that should I ever pull the
wings, I would add the connectors, one wire at a time, located such that
the connector will be inside the fuselage under the floorboards and out of
the weather, as opposed to under the wing root fairing. The floor boards
will need to be removed to access the spar bolts anyway.
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Wing-to-Fuselage electrical connections |
> By the way, you are talking about wingtip nav antennas, how many did you install,
and which type are they?
Carlos,
I'll be installing the Bob Archer nav antennas (one in each wingtip) for a VOR/LOC
antenna, and using a diplexer to feed the glide slope.
> If I were building an airplane, wings would be wired as
> they are built and 10' or so pigtails left at the fuselage
> end coiled up for later routing into the fuselage and
> attachment to their respective destinations . . .but
> with a "service loop" about 4-6" in diameter (12-18"
> of slack wire) under the wing root fairing.
Bob,
Thanks. In a perfect world, I would do the same. However, I'm trying to do as
much as possible in the shop. I feel I can do a better job when I have as much
heat, light, and tools as I need. So I'm going to wire everything I can before
moving to the airport. Hopefully, I can just bolt the wings, empenage and
fairings on and be done. I'm not even sure I'll have a hangar available. Even
if I do have a hangar, the cost is more than a BMW car payment each month,
so I'd like to minimize the time I rent it.
So it's looking like I'll use BNC connectors for the coax, and splice the DC wires.
Thanks again.
--------
Clear Skies,
Tom Costanza
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9451#209451
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Routing wires point-to-point |
Dale Rogers wrote:
>
>
> It might be worth noting that the new self-sticking (double-
> sided) velcro strips make excellent temporary, reusable
> bundle ties. When done with the wiring, replace them with
> one's preferred permanent ties, and reuse the temps on the
> next bundle being assembled. And they are easily available
> from your friendly local H.D. aviation supply store.
>
> (Home Depot)
>
> Dale R.
>
>
Why replace the velcro, Dale? What is wrong with leaving the velcro as
the permanent attachment?
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Dry Cell Batteries? |
>
> At 04:48 AM 8/27/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>
> Is there a source for these batteries in an 8ah rating that does not have
> the fast-on tabs, such as those used on wheelchairs? The smallest I've
> found with bolt-on terminals is 17ah.
>
> Thx,
> Bradley
>
>
>
> What are your requirements for capacity? Have you
> done an energy study for battery-only endurance?
> The 310 is not cheap and it's fragile compared to it's
> larger siblings.
>
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
After much discussion, we think this is how my electrically-dependent engine breaks
out...
>
>
> Current draw on 4 cylinder EFI engines:
>
> Pump at 40 psi- 5-8 amps
> Injectors at 5000 rpm- 3-4 amps
> Ignition at 5000 rpm- 2.5-4 amps (depends on coil charge time)
> ECU- .15- .6 amps depending on ECU
>
> My total current draw in flight at 4500 rpm with 2 pumps on (one LP
> Facet, one HP Bosch 048), transponder, comm, gps, injectors, coils,
> ECU and scavenge pump is 18 amps.
We seem to think that the 17ah PC680 clone would give just about 15 minutes of
realistic run time, given some age on the battery. I guess I might have to carry
the weight of another battery around to be safe.
Bradley
--------
Beemer
KF2 (and now an M3!)
Middle Georgia
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9455#209455
Message 7
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| Subject: | Wiring the G207 Ray Allen Grip |
Bill,
Thanks for the heads up. I missed that diagram the first time around.
That worked as advertised. The trim and owner are now happy!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Denton
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 1:14 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Wiring the G207 Ray Allen Grip
<bdenton@bdenton.com>
Did you look at Figure 2 on Page 4 of this document:
http://www.rayallencompany.com/RACmedia/instructionsT2andT3.pdf
Thanks!
Bill Denton
bdenton@bdenton.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
longg@pjm.com
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 12:33 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Wiring the G207 Ray Allen Grip
I am installing a single G207 hand grip on my grocery getter and need
some help with the two auxiliary switches at the top or front of the
grip. I purchased the unit complete with two push button switches at the
top.
If you are familiar with the G207 there are 4 flush mounted buttons on
top with one PTT on the front of the switch. There is an option for
either two toggle or two push button switches just in front of the 4
flush mounted buttons.
The PTT and four flush buttons are working as designed with no issues. I
use them for aileron trim and elevator trim. I want to use the 2
optional buttons for the rudder trim.
Ray Allen does not offer any ideas or schematics indicating there are
just too may options for wiring them. I want to see if anyone has used
them for a trim motor (in my case the rudder trim) and how they finally
wired them up. The switches have 3 connection points each and there is
continuity between two of them at all times. The 3rd is closed when the
button is pushed.
I have tried the obvious, ground to open, hot and switch to closed and
so on - and the reverse. Nothing so far but blown fuses.
I am using the T2-7A trim motor for the rudder which is a 5 wire unit.
Thanks,
Glenn
Message 8
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| Subject: | Routing wires point-to-point |
I just passed through the same dilemma. What to do, what to do. On my
bird the wings may be detached for fuel line maintenance or perhaps
transport at some point, so I decided to install one DB15 connector in
the fuselage to handle trim and wing lights which need to be loose to
detach the wings.
I wanted to use the trailer type connectors but had no luck finding the
necessary 5-pole jobs (Lowes, Home Depot, Wal-Mart, Hardware, Pep Boys
etc.) so gave up and decided a good male/female db connector setup held
the most promise. I hope to never separate the two, but you never know.
After initial run-up etc I plan to pull the wings and flush the tanks
out once more. I take the approach of doing everything for the sake of
future maintenance. If your fuel lines have connectors between the stub
and the wing that may be one more reason for taking the wings off to
replace hoses or fix a leak.
It's Murphy's law, what goes up will need maintenance when it comes
down.
Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Ernest Christley
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Routing wires point-to-point
<echristley@nc.rr.com>
Dale Rogers wrote:
>
>
> It might be worth noting that the new self-sticking (double-
> sided) velcro strips make excellent temporary, reusable
> bundle ties. When done with the wiring, replace them with
> one's preferred permanent ties, and reuse the temps on the
> next bundle being assembled. And they are easily available
> from your friendly local H.D. aviation supply store.
>
> (Home Depot)
>
> Dale R.
>
>
Why replace the velcro, Dale? What is wrong with leaving the velcro as
the permanent attachment?
Message 9
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When should you ground components locally and when should you ground to
the battery directly?
Flap motor? Lights? Pitot heat? Defrost fans, and the like?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
Message 10
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Where can I purchase a 10 slot plastic fuse block that can be panel
mounted with the terminals coming out the back?
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Routing wires point-to-point |
Sam,
I believe Bob's technique to be the best. I did mine that way and it was
relatively straight forwarded - even for a beginner like me. One suggestion is
that when you buy the el-cheeso tie wraps from Harbor Freight - buy red ones
or orange ones (or some other color you wouldn't want on your plane's
wiring). That way when you are ready to replace them with higher quality ties,
finding the correct ones to remove and replace will not be difficult. Don't ask
me how I discovered this.
Stan Sutterfield
Lay your 'real' wire bundles up along side these
Nylaflow road markers. Get a wad of el-chesso tie
wraps from Harbor Freight to hold each new wire into
place cutting off ties underneath new wires as they
become surplus.
After your bundles are all finished. cut out segments
of Nylaflow and Replace throwaway ties with good tie
wraps or string ties. Replace your temporary bundle
support clamps with the real ones.
This technique allows you to set the wire-way for
bundles that are many strands from self-supporting.
This allows you to apply finishing restraints in an
orderly cutting the forms away as you go after the
bundles are completely finished.
**************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination.
Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out
(http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002)
Message 12
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Bob,
Head for the boat yard. Blue Sea and West Marine sell them. They ain't
cheap but they're pretty. They include various labels and have an LED
"on" indicator.
http://www.westmarine.com
Search for "fuse panel"
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
McArdle
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 11:51 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Fuse block
Where can I purchase a 10 slot plastic fuse block that can be panel
mounted with the terminals coming out the back?
Message 13
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Do not archive
I am probably missing something here, but why are we talking fuses
instead of circuit breakers?
Phil
RV7 tail/wing, Cessna 177
On Oct 20, 2008, at 12:36 PM, <longg@pjm.com> <longg@pjm.com> wrote:
> Bob,
>
> Head for the boat yard. Blue Sea and West Marine sell them. They
> ain=92t cheap but they=92re pretty. They include various labels and
> have an LED =93on=94 indicator.
>
> http://www.westmarine.com
>
> Search for =93fuse panel=94
>
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-
> aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob McArdle
> Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 11:51 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Fuse block
>
> Where can I purchase a 10 slot plastic fuse block that can be panel
> mounted with the terminals coming out the back?
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
Message 14
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BOB: You may want to check out the Bussmann 15710 series at
http://www.coopertp.com/pdf/39dd59f2-bbbd-48b4-88cf-40977f474e1f.pdf
You could call Bussmann at 888-867-8194 to find out where you can purchase
them. I will probably use it on my project.
Also look at the picture at
http://tincantimes.dcsol.com/Default7_files/2005_0302_173652AA.jpg
for an installation on a Murphy Rebel. This guy bought it at
http://www.mihdirect.biz/
This web site also has a link to an RV-8 installation.
Hope this helps.
Joe R
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
McArdle
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 9:51 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Fuse block
Where can I purchase a 10 slot plastic fuse block that can be panel mounted
with the terminals coming out the back?
Message 15
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> I am probably missing something here, but why are we talking fuses instead
> of circuit breakers?
>
Because some people prefer fuses. No mystery, unless I'm missing something.
Ron
Message 16
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| Subject: | Head Set Jack shoring out |
Bob,
I received this message from a FBO where I rent planes. Any idea why this
is even possible?
"When flying Diamond aircraft at Wings of Eagles, headsets MUST be plugged
in BEFORE turning the radios on. If this procedure is not followed, it
could result in the headset jack shorting out, which renders the jack
inoperative & obviously not being able to communicate effectively. Your
adherence to this practice will result in a more pleasant flight experience
and less aircraft down time due to maintenance. Thank you in advance for
your cooperation"
Marty RV6A Finishing.
Brentwood TN
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Dry Cell Batteries? |
Bradley,
Those numbers seem a little high. I know the Walbro pump I'm going to use
is listed at 4 amps. What injectors and coils are you using?, Again, to my
uneducated mind those numbers seem high.
I have a similar setup and I think I'm looking at around 8 amps.
RWS EC3 controller
Walbro pump
Delco LS-1 coils
Transponder, GPS, COM, etc.
Two contactors
I have the LS-1 coils only using 1/2 amp.
Sam
Murphysboro, IL
www.samhoskins.blogspot.com
On Mon, Oct 20, 2008 at 8:11 AM, Beemer <bmwebb@cox.net> wrote:
>
>
> >
> > At 04:48 AM 8/27/2008 -0700, you wrote:
> >
> > Is there a source for these batteries in an 8ah rating that does not have
> > the fast-on tabs, such as those used on wheelchairs? The smallest I've
> > found with bolt-on terminals is 17ah.
> >
> > Thx,
> > Bradley
> >
> >
> >
> > What are your requirements for capacity? Have you
> > done an energy study for battery-only endurance?
> > The 310 is not cheap and it's fragile compared to it's
> > larger siblings.
> >
> >
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> >
>
>
> After much discussion, we think this is how my electrically-dependent
> engine breaks out...
>
>
> >
> >
> > Current draw on 4 cylinder EFI engines:
> >
> > Pump at 40 psi- 5-8 amps
> > Injectors at 5000 rpm- 3-4 amps
> > Ignition at 5000 rpm- 2.5-4 amps (depends on coil charge time)
> > ECU- .15- .6 amps depending on ECU
> >
> > My total current draw in flight at 4500 rpm with 2 pumps on (one LP
> > Facet, one HP Bosch 048), transponder, comm, gps, injectors, coils,
> > ECU and scavenge pump is 18 amps.
>
>
> We seem to think that the 17ah PC680 clone would give just about 15 minutes
> of realistic run time, given some age on the battery. I guess I might have
> to carry the weight of another battery around to be safe.
>
> Bradley
>
> --------
> Beemer
> KF2 (and now an M3!)
> Middle Georgia
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9455#209455
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Dry Cell Batteries? |
Bradley,
I am installing a similar system and I think those numbers seem a little
high. I know the Walbro pump I'm going to use
is listed at 4 amps. What injectors and coils are you using?, Again, to my
uneducated mind those numbers seem high.
I have a similar setup and I think I'm looking at around 12.5 amps.
RWS EC3 controller
Walbro pump
Delco LS-1 coils
Transponder, GPS, COM, etc.
Two contactors
I have the LS-1 coils only using 1/2 amp.
Sam
Murphysboro, IL
www.samhoskins.blogspot.com
On Mon, Oct 20, 2008 at 8:11 AM, Beemer <bmwebb@cox.net> wrote:
>
>
> >
> > At 04:48 AM 8/27/2008 -0700, you wrote:
> >
> > Is there a source for these batteries in an 8ah rating that does not have
> > the fast-on tabs, such as those used on wheelchairs? The smallest I've
> > found with bolt-on terminals is 17ah.
> >
> > Thx,
> > Bradley
> >
> >
> >
> > What are your requirements for capacity? Have you
> > done an energy study for battery-only endurance?
> > The 310 is not cheap and it's fragile compared to it's
> > larger siblings.
> >
> >
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> >
>
>
> After much discussion, we think this is how my electrically-dependent
> engine breaks out...
>
>
> >
> >
> > Current draw on 4 cylinder EFI engines:
> >
> > Pump at 40 psi- 5-8 amps
> > Injectors at 5000 rpm- 3-4 amps
> > Ignition at 5000 rpm- 2.5-4 amps (depends on coil charge time)
> > ECU- .15- .6 amps depending on ECU
> >
> > My total current draw in flight at 4500 rpm with 2 pumps on (one LP
> > Facet, one HP Bosch 048), transponder, comm, gps, injectors, coils,
> > ECU and scavenge pump is 18 amps.
>
>
> We seem to think that the 17ah PC680 clone would give just about 15 minutes
> of realistic run time, given some age on the battery. I guess I might have
> to carry the weight of another battery around to be safe.
>
> Bradley
>
> --------
> Beemer
> KF2 (and now an M3!)
> Middle Georgia
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9455#209455
>
>
Message 19
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COST and reliability. If you have a problem and it trips the protective
device - no matter what it is, you do NOT want to try to solve it while
flying. When you reach your landing area, you can then solve the problem
and in the case of fuses, fix the trip after solving the problem. Ckt
breakers are very expensive and provide no additional protection over the
lowly fuse. How many people have lost their lives over a tripped breaker
and tried to solve it while flying. Wasn't there a commercial airliner
that crashed in the Everglades while trying to solve a little problem
like that?? I saved my money and I am spending it on gas. 16+ hours
and loving it.
Jim Nelson
RV9-A
____________________________________________________________
Do it right the first time. Click to find contractors to work on your home improvement
project.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nHrlrfJ54czFpkvi2u4357U6MDat214l4kp0QaP3uJi28Tf/
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Dry Cell Batteries? |
> >
> > What are your requirements for capacity? Have you
> > done an energy study for battery-only endurance?
> > The 310 is not cheap and it's fragile compared to it's
> > larger siblings.
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> > After much discussion, we think this is how my electrically-dependent
> engine breaks out...
>
> > Current draw on 4 cylinder EFI engines:
> >
> > Pump at 40 psi- 5-8 amps
> > Injectors at 5000 rpm- 3-4 amps
> > Ignition at 5000 rpm- 2.5-4 amps (depends on coil charge time)
> > ECU- .15- .6 amps depending on ECU
> >
> > My total current draw in flight at 4500 rpm with 2 pumps on (one LP
> > Facet, one HP Bosch 048), transponder, comm, gps, injectors, coils,
> > ECU and scavenge pump is 18 amps.
>
>
>We seem to think that the 17ah PC680 clone would give just about 15
>minutes of realistic run time, given some age on the battery. I guess I
>might have to carry the weight of another battery around to be safe.
According to the performance curves at:
http://tinyurl.com/5p6d4w
a 17A load on a 100% battery will give you just
under 30 minutes of run time down to about 10V. So
a battery due for replacement would be suited
for about 20 minutes of operation.
Consider running both batteries of a 2-battery
architecture in parallel. Losses in any given battery is an
I(squared)*R function. By cutting the current per
battery by about 1/2, the energy lost in each battery
drops to 1/4th the original amount. Doing 1/4
per battery in two batteries gets you 1/2 the
lost watts. Two 17 a.h. batteries gives you
34 a.h. of total capacity. An 18A load on this
combo goes to a 60+ minutes of duration.
A savings of 5 or so pounds can be realized by
going to a single 28 a.h. battery.
http://tinyurl.com/6eu2p8
The internal impedance of this battery seems
better than two 17 a.h. in parallel. It gives
you the same 60+ minutes at less weight
and total capacity.
Of course, with a single battery or treating
two batteries as one battery dictates an
aggressive capacity tracking protocol. If
ever there was an power plant begging for
a second, small alternator, it's this one.
Bob . . .
Message 21
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At 02:56 PM 10/20/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>Do not archive
>I am probably missing something here, but why are we talking fuses instead
>of circuit breakers?
>Phil
>RV7 tail/wing, Cessna 177
See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/fusvsbkr.html
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/fusvbkr2.html
Bob . . .
Message 22
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At 08:57 AM 10/20/2008 -0500, you wrote:
>When should you ground components locally and when should you ground to
>the battery directly?
>Flap motor? Lights? Pitot heat? Defrost fans, and the like?
Nothing grounds directly to the battery. The battery
and all things local to the panel and engine should
go to a single point ground on the firewall. See View -A-
of figure 15 of:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev11/AppZ_R11M.pdf
Stuff away from the panel like landing lights, strobe
supplies, position lights and pitot heat can ground
locally to structure.
Also see photos of grounding accessories at:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Grounding/
Bob . . .
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Head Set Jack shoring out |
At 06:49 PM 10/20/2008 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>I received this message from a FBO where I rent planes. Any idea why this
>is even possible?
>
>"When flying Diamond aircraft at Wings of Eagles, headsets MUST be plugged
>in BEFORE turning the radios on. If this procedure is not followed, it
>could result in the headset jack shorting out, which renders the jack
>inoperative & obviously not being able to communicate effectively. Your
>adherence to this practice will result in a more pleasant flight experience
>and less aircraft down time due to maintenance. Thank you in advance for
>your cooperation"
I am unaware of the physics that might justify such a protocol.
It is true that for stereo headphones and depending on the
design of the jack, right and left channels can be momentarily
shorted together but I'm betting these are not stereo headset
installations . . . and even so, momentary shorts between channels
shouldn't be big deal.
I've never encountered a microphone or headset installation
where engaging or disengaging the connector while the radios
are ON presents any kind of risk to the equipment. It would
be interesting to talk to the technicians who are making repairs
alleged to have been precipitated by ungraceful mating of
headset connectors.
Bob. . .
Message 24
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| Subject: | Routing wires point-to-point |
At 09:52 AM 10/20/2008 -0400, you wrote:
>
>I just passed through the same dilemma. What to do, what to do. On my
>bird the wings may be detached for fuel line maintenance or perhaps
>transport at some point, so I decided to install one DB15 connector in
>the fuselage to handle trim and wing lights which need to be loose to
>detach the wings.
Are you paralleling some of the pins per . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/D-Sub_Power_Dist_1.jpg
Bob . . .
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