Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:20 AM - Re: Alt to starter connection (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 05:51 AM - Re: ANL current limiter location on rear battery installations (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 06:05 AM - Re: FAQ question... (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 07:02 AM - invitation to Slobovia Outernational Pumpkin Drop 2008 (Charlie England)
5. 08:34 AM - Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses ()
6. 08:41 AM - Re: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses (Charlie England)
7. 08:49 AM - Re: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses (Harley)
8. 09:02 AM - Re: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses (Matt Prather)
9. 09:04 AM - What's better? Re: thermocouple switching... (Steve Stearns)
10. 09:22 AM - Re: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 09:28 AM - Re: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses (Dale Ellis)
12. 09:42 AM - Re: What's better? Re: thermocouple switching... (ROGER & JEAN CURTIS)
13. 10:11 AM - Re: Thermocouple switching... (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 10:20 AM - Re: Anything you walk away from is a GOOD landing . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 11:04 AM - Re: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses ()
16. 11:14 AM - Re: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses ()
17. 11:33 AM - Re: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses (Bill Boyd)
18. 12:10 PM - Re: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses (Carlos Trigo)
19. 05:20 PM - Re: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses (LarryMcFarland)
20. 08:22 PM - Re: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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Subject: | Alt to starter connection |
At 05:32 PM 11/6/2008 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Thank you. I suspected it to be as you said, but I wanted to make sure
>before I blow up an otherwise working alternator.
>
>The distance from the starter to alternator big leads is about 12 inches. It
>will only save a few ounces, but I need all I can from up there, plus it
>makes a slightly simpler installation. Simple is good.
It is not be necessary to "worry about blowing up
and otherwise good working alternator." Like aviation
with a combination of SAE, RTCA, MIL-Specs, FARs, ISO,
etc. etc the automotive industry is no less motivated to craft
a product that shrugs off anything a system and most
things that an installer throws at it.
Aside from lack of cooling and flimsy installation with
respect to vibration, there's nothing the OBAM aircraft
installer should concern themselves with . . . especially
nuances in wiring. These are NOT hand-painted china cups
that will crumble in the hands of the uninitiated user.
I mentioned a few weeks ago that I was privileged to
get a huge data dump and first-hand look at an
alternator refurbishment operation. That trip rebutted
many of the popularly endorsed ideas about how
alternators work and how they should be treated
to protect the owner's return on investment. I'm
working on an article that will share all I have
learned. In the mean time, know that the shiny
electro-whizzy you pulled out of the box from
Smiley Jack's Purty Good Car Parts store is not
the fragile device looking for a pampering.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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Subject: | ANL current limiter location on rear battery |
installations
At 05:44 PM 11/6/2008 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Ahhh, I see. I took your stance to be that the ANL fuse is a much required
>item in our OBAM systems. I now take you to mean them to be fine to add, but
>not wholly necessary to safety. Correct?
It's not an easy thing to decide. Everything we do
in terms of refining a design go to the problems
of lowering failure rates (lowered risk and cost
of ownership), reducing cost to manufacture
(cost of ownership) and raising performance.
>So having no circuit protection in both/either the alternator and/or starter
>circuit in a competently-designed system is ok? Hard to swallow, but that's
>why I'm asking.
This is an excellent example of the value of studying
the history of our craft and gleaning understanding of
how ideas and products evolved from the time Wallace,
Piper, Beech and others bolted their first batteries and
generators onto a production aircraft.
The question to be asked and answered is "protection from
what?" Obviously, shorted or overloaded wires represent some
hazard to overall functionality of the system. The idea
of protection is to limit risk by limiting loss of function
to the faulted pathway thus preventing the fault from
propagating to other parts of the system.
>I have an ANL fuse and holder, but in the interest of fewer connections
>(hence less to go wrong), I may forego it.
Given the very short transition between your alternator
b-lead terminal and the starter terminal, it's EASY to
make sure that wire is never faulted to ground. So the
risk to be mitigated is taking a system down due to shorted
diodes in the alternator. Let us assume you subscribe to the
idea of keeping a robust battery on board. Probability is
that shorted diodes will produce fault currents within
the alternator that will fuse internal stator wires
which are on the same order of robustness as the ANL
limiters. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Fuses_and_Current_Limiters/Bussman/ANL_Specs.pdf
These guys take a LOT of current to open them . . . the
kind of current that you can expect from a battery that
is maintained for the purposes of running your e-bus for
duration of fuel aboard. So leaving the ANL out of this
lead raises no specter of risk.
Now, run that battery until it doesn't crank the engine
any more and it's conceivable that a shorted set of
diodes could put a load on the system that the battery
cannot support and everything comes down. Having an
ANL in the b-lead probably wouldn't have made any difference.
The point is that if you procure, craft, and operate
a system from the perspective of meeting design goals
and understanding how that's accomplished, your risks
go WAY down compared to the vast majority of our
flying brothers who only pull levers and twist knobs.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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At 05:38 PM 11/6/2008 -0500, you wrote:
>
>I feel comfortable with the alternator disconnect solenoid in series with
>the "control" wire on my IR alternator. If I should feel the need to throw
>the Master DC switch to the BATT position, my alternator will simply become
>a spinning weight up front.
>
>I'm installing the OVM-14 on the 5 amp CB on the panel, so the only thing
>yet missing from my panel is the 2x4 coming at me during the over/under
>voltage event. I'm still considering options for which way I want to go, and
>the B&C BC207-1 is looking right for the job.
I designed the BC207 to fill a niche on ultralights. If you
have OV protection, you do not need OV warning. That light
will be on and off so fast that you won't notice it. This
leaves only LV warning. I used to offer a LV warning product
but discontinued it in favor of a quantum jump upgrade.
Details are available at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/DIY/LV_Warn_Fab_and_Install.pdf
. . . if you're willing to spend some time with a soldering
iron and herd a few parts, you can craft his device yourself.
Alternatively, we're working on a new stable of products
from the 'Connection that will include this guy . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9011/9011-700-1C.pdf
It has three functions which may be used in any combination
and would provide your LV warning. Additionally, the second
LV warning channel could be used to monitor any present
or future AUX Battery installation to remind you to bring it
on line after engine start when that battery is used to
support products not designed to live in the real world
of airplanes.
It will be in the same ball park for price as the BC207.
I'm looking into practicality of having it also control
the b-lead disconnect contactor in a Z-24 like installation.
Jury is still out on that.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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Subject: | invitation to Slobovia Outernational Pumpkin Drop 2008 |
If anyone on the aeroelectric list is near central Mississippi, you're
invited to come on down to Slobovia Outernational (MS71), 10 miles north
of Jackson MS, to eat some BBQ & participate in our 2nd annual Pumpkin
Drop tomorrow, Nov 8, 2008. Give me a call at 601-879-9596 if you need
directions.
Charlie
Message 5
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Subject: | Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses |
Does anyone know of a place to purchase 1,2 & 3 amp fuses on the street?
I've tried a number of auto stores, Walmart etc, but cannot find
anything below 5 amp.
Thanks,
Glenn
Do Not Archive
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses |
longg@pjm.com wrote:
>
> Does anyone know of a place to purchase 1,2 & 3 amp fuses on the street?
> I've tried a number of auto stores, Walmart etc, but cannot find
> anything below 5 amp.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn
>
>
> Do Not Archive
If you're talking about the old 1/4x 1 1/4 inch glass fuses, try an
electronics supply house. Blade type, you might have to resort to mail
order.
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses |
Not sure whether you want the newer blade fuses, or the old standard
tubular type, but Radio shack carries them both. Just checked online and
they do indeed have them both from 1 amp and up.
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
longg@pjm.com wrote:
>
> Does anyone know of a place to purchase 1,2 & 3 amp fuses on the street?
> I've tried a number of auto stores, Walmart etc, but cannot find
> anything below 5 amp.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn
>
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Agelesswings certifies that no virus is in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses |
What size wire requires a fuse less than 5A? Or is this for another
application?
Matt-
>
> Does anyone know of a place to purchase 1,2 & 3 amp fuses on the street?
> I've tried a number of auto stores, Walmart etc, but cannot find
> anything below 5 amp.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn
>
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | What's better? re: thermocouple switching... |
Bob and the group,
I've read and understood the book and list info on switching
thermocouples (i.e. importance of iso-thermally balanced couples etc.)
and haven't found the answer as to which is better between the following
choices related to type "K" to copper transition connections going
into/out-of the "switch box" (which is via a single "DB" style connector).
A) terminate "K" wires with "K" type pins (Expensive, but I already have
them. They are stamped, not machined, pins. ), terminate copper wires
with standard machined gold pins -> resulting balanced couples between
"K" wire types and gold at pin/socket interface. (how important is
contact pressure to a repeatable "couple" connection?)
B) terminate "K" wires with standard gold pins, terminate copper with
mating pins -> resulting balanced couples between "K" wire types and
gold at a machined pin crimp connection (my favorite at my current level
of ignorance... but I don't know the mechanical stability of "K" type
wire in this type of crimp - at least the "K" type wire IS stranded
here, and I also don't know the voltage/temp relationship between "K"
wire types and gold)
C) terminate "K" wires with copper pig-tails via single crimp over both
wires (i.e. put both wires into one side of a butt splice and crimp)
terminate copper pigtails with machined gold pins, terminate switch
copper with mating gold pins. -> resulting matched couples are gas-tight
crimps between "K" wires and copper. (seemingly best for bi-metal
interface but worse for ensuring iso-thermal connections and logistics)
D) some other option I haven't thought of?
Anyone know the voltage/temp relationship between the two "K" wire types
and gold?
I except that each of the above is likely to work "good enough" but hey,
if I have to choose anyway, I might as well pick a method I can argue is
the best of the options.
Thanks in advance,
Steve Stearns
Boulder/Longmont, Colorado
CSA,EAA,IAC,AOPA,PE,ARRL,BARC (but ignorant none-the-less)
Restoring (since 1/07): N45FC O235 Longeze Cothern/Friling CF1 (~1000 Hrs)
Flying (since 9/86): N43732 A65 Taylorcraft BC12D
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses |
At 09:59 AM 11/7/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>
>What size wire requires a fuse less than 5A? Or is this for another
>application?
>
>
>Matt-
>
> >
> > Does anyone know of a place to purchase 1,2 & 3 amp fuses on the street?
> > I've tried a number of auto stores, Walmart etc, but cannot find
> > anything below 5 amp.
5A is certainly adequate for protection of 22AWG wire
which is the smallest practical feeder that should
be tied to a bus.
Having said that, it's useful to drop to still lower
protection levels to extend protection to the interior
of an appliance. This goes beyond the simple idea
of protecting the airframe. The smaller sizes are
not in common distribution. I used to stock 1, 2 and
3A sizes. B&C still does at:
http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?27X358218#S889-1
You won't find them in auto parts stores but lots
of folks offer them on the 'net. Do a Google on
"ATC-1". "ATC-2" etc.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses |
B & C Electic has the blade type fuses in amp ratings below 5 amps
Dale
-----Original Message-----
>From: longg@pjm.com
>Sent: Nov 7, 2008 11:31 AM
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses
>
>
>Does anyone know of a place to purchase 1,2 & 3 amp fuses on the street?
>I've tried a number of auto stores, Walmart etc, but cannot find
>anything below 5 amp.
>
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn
>
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 12
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Subject: | What's better? re: thermocouple switching... |
Steve & Bob,
I have been led to believe that the connector pin material does not matter
if the temperature of both sided (male and female) are the same. I am not
sure of this, and maybe Bob has an answer.
Roger
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Stearns
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 1:03 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: What's better? re: thermocouple switching...
Bob and the group,
I've read and understood the book and list info on switching
thermocouples (i.e. importance of iso-thermally balanced couples etc.)
and haven't found the answer as to which is better between the following
choices related to type "K" to copper transition connections going
into/out-of the "switch box" (which is via a single "DB" style connector).
A) terminate "K" wires with "K" type pins (Expensive, but I already have
them. They are stamped, not machined, pins. ), terminate copper wires
with standard machined gold pins -> resulting balanced couples between
"K" wire types and gold at pin/socket interface. (how important is
contact pressure to a repeatable "couple" connection?)
B) terminate "K" wires with standard gold pins, terminate copper with
mating pins -> resulting balanced couples between "K" wire types and
gold at a machined pin crimp connection (my favorite at my current level
of ignorance... but I don't know the mechanical stability of "K" type
wire in this type of crimp - at least the "K" type wire IS stranded
here, and I also don't know the voltage/temp relationship between "K"
wire types and gold)
C) terminate "K" wires with copper pig-tails via single crimp over both
wires (i.e. put both wires into one side of a butt splice and crimp)
terminate copper pigtails with machined gold pins, terminate switch
copper with mating gold pins. -> resulting matched couples are gas-tight
crimps between "K" wires and copper. (seemingly best for bi-metal
interface but worse for ensuring iso-thermal connections and logistics)
D) some other option I haven't thought of?
Anyone know the voltage/temp relationship between the two "K" wire types
and gold?
I except that each of the above is likely to work "good enough" but hey,
if I have to choose anyway, I might as well pick a method I can argue is
the best of the options.
Thanks in advance,
Steve Stearns
Boulder/Longmont, Colorado
CSA,EAA,IAC,AOPA,PE,ARRL,BARC (but ignorant none-the-less)
Restoring (since 1/07): N45FC O235 Longeze Cothern/Friling CF1 (~1000 Hrs)
Flying (since 9/86): N43732 A65 Taylorcraft BC12D
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Thermocouple switching... |
At 11:02 AM 11/7/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>
>Bob and the group,
>
>I've read and understood the book and list info on switching thermocouples
>(i.e. importance of iso-thermally balanced couples etc.) and haven't found
>the answer as to which is better between the following choices related to
>type "K" to copper transition connections going into/out-of the "switch
>box" (which is via a single "DB" style connector).
>
>A) terminate "K" wires with "K" type pins (Expensive, but I already have
>them. They are stamped, not machined, pins. ), terminate copper wires
>with standard machined gold pins -> resulting balanced couples between "K"
>wire types and gold at pin/socket interface. (how important is contact
>pressure to a repeatable "couple" connection?)
>B) terminate "K" wires with standard gold pins, terminate copper with
>mating pins -> resulting balanced couples between "K" wire types and gold
>at a machined pin crimp connection (my favorite at my current level of
>ignorance... but I don't know the mechanical stability of "K" type wire in
>this type of crimp - at least the "K" type wire IS stranded here, and I
>also don't know the voltage/temp relationship between "K" wire types and gold)
>C) terminate "K" wires with copper pig-tails via single crimp over both
>wires (i.e. put both wires into one side of a butt splice and crimp)
>terminate copper pigtails with machined gold pins, terminate switch copper
>with mating gold pins. -> resulting matched couples are gas-tight crimps
>between "K" wires and copper. (seemingly best for bi-metal interface but
>worse for ensuring iso-thermal connections and logistics)
>D) some other option I haven't thought of?
>
>Anyone know the voltage/temp relationship between the two "K" wire types
>and gold?
Doesn't matter if you faithfully observe the doctrine
of parasitic couple error mitigation by thermally local
pairing. For example, you can carry a thermocouple
through a d-sub connector with minimal error because the
parasitic thermocouples of wire-to-pin crimps in each
path cancel each other's effects. The pin-to-pin junctions
cancel because they are equal voltages (close thermal
proximity) and opposite polarity with respect to each
other. You can take your wires though an all copper switch
box as long as there are NO DIFFERENCES in the number,
style and temperatures amongst the parasitic joints
inserted in both sides of a thermocouple pair.
The finish and base material of the various couples
need to be minimized but for the way we use thermocouples
in airplanes, errors introduced by an array of
paired-opposing parasitic couples are negligible.
>I except that each of the above is likely to work "good enough" but hey,
>if I have to choose anyway, I might as well pick a method I can argue is
>the best of the options.
Do what you need to do to meet design goals for
function . . . disconnects, switches, etc and keep
the errors equal in magnitude and opposite in polarity.
Bob . . .
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Anything you walk away from is a GOOD landing |
. . .
At 10:31 AM 11/6/2008 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>>Something to be said for torque-tube aileron controls.
>>If this airplane had been rigged with cables . . .
>>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vv_w3IrRYq0
>
> They got you Bob - it is an RC model in a "faked" video... :-)
Which is why it's always good to have lots of eyes
looking at it. After the initial surprise and amazement,
a careful sifting of the simple-ideas can launch
a line of questions that ultimately expose underlying
simple-ideas.
I used to do forensic animations for a living. We
called the "Videmations - real time demonstrations
of facts in evidence." Obviously, one can animate
anything the imagination can conjure. When producing
an animation for the purpose of adding understanding,
it's important that everything shown has foundation
in physics and good data.
I crafted model motion systems to position vehicles
in accordance with data on frame-by-frame vehicle
positions provided to me by the analyst expert. The
analyst first testifies as to how the data was
generated. We would then offer a real-time illustration
of the expert's analysis. The video assists an expert
in guiding the viewers perceptions of his/her testimony
true-time.
The simple-ideas behind our efforts were subject to
discovery by all interested parties. Close inspection
of this video folks here on the List have demonstrated
the forensic weaknesses in its production. Good work
folks.
Bob . . .
Message 15
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Subject: | Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses |
Thanks for the suggestions. I am looking for the ATC blade type. The key term is
"on the street". I need them tomorrow. I'll try the Radio Shanty.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Ellis
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 12:28 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses
B & C Electic has the blade type fuses in amp ratings below 5 amps
Dale
-----Original Message-----
>From: longg@pjm.com
>Sent: Nov 7, 2008 11:31 AM
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses
>
>
>Does anyone know of a place to purchase 1,2 & 3 amp fuses on the street?
>I've tried a number of auto stores, Walmart etc, but cannot find
>anything below 5 amp.
>
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn
>
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses |
Matt,
You must have one of those 48' Bonanzas :) Many pieces of modern
equipment are now running well below 5 amps. My strobes, efis panels,
nav lights, trim, some radios, gauges, led lights and so on all run in
the 1-3 amp range. Pretty soon these things will run on batteries and
well just place a solar panel on the wind screen and fly above the
clouds.
Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt
Prather
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses
<mprather@spro.net>
What size wire requires a fuse less than 5A? Or is this for another
application?
Matt-
>
> Does anyone know of a place to purchase 1,2 & 3 amp fuses on the
street?
> I've tried a number of auto stores, Walmart etc, but cannot find
> anything below 5 amp.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn
>
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses |
IIRC, fuses are sized to protect the wire, not the device. Where are you
finding wire gauges light enough to need 1, 2, or 3 A protection? I've
never encountered wire this small in experimental aviation except possibly a
MAC trim servo, and for some reason never fused those wires. Minds that
need examining want to know...
-Bill B
On Fri, Nov 7, 2008 at 2:12 PM, <longg@pjm.com> wrote:
>
> Matt,
>
> You must have one of those 48' Bonanzas :) Many pieces of modern
> equipment are now running well below 5 amps. My strobes, efis panels,
> nav lights, trim, some radios, gauges, led lights and so on all run in
> the 1-3 amp range. Pretty soon these things will run on batteries and
> well just place a solar panel on the wind screen and fly above the
> clouds.
>
> Glenn
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt
> Prather
> Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 12:00 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses
>
> <mprather@spro.net>
>
> What size wire requires a fuse less than 5A? Or is this for another
> application?
>
>
> Matt-
>
> >
> > Does anyone know of a place to purchase 1,2 & 3 amp fuses on the
> street?
> > I've tried a number of auto stores, Walmart etc, but cannot find
> > anything below 5 amp.
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Glenn
> >
> >
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
--Bill
So this is how democracy dies, with thunderous applause...
Message 18
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Subject: | Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses |
Bill
I am not an EE, as a matter of fact I'm a Civil Eng, but it seems to me that
although fuses are designed to protect the wire, the current (which
determines the fuse Amp) that runs through the wire depends on the device it
serves.
For example, when installing the GPSx96 in the panel the instructions call
for a 1A fuse or CB, and the AOA Cpu from Proprietary (now AFS) calls for
4A, and Flightcom 403 intercom call for AWG 20 or 22 wire and 1A
breaker/fuse.
Am I missing something?
Carlos
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Boyd
Sent: sexta-feira, 7 de Novembro de 2008 19:30
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses
IIRC, fuses are sized to protect the wire, not the device. Where are you
finding wire gauges light enough to need 1, 2, or 3 A protection? I've
never encountered wire this small in experimental aviation except possibly a
MAC trim servo, and for some reason never fused those wires. Minds that
need examining want to know...
-Bill B
On Fri, Nov 7, 2008 at 2:12 PM, <longg@pjm.com> wrote:
Matt,
You must have one of those 48' Bonanzas :) Many pieces of modern
equipment are now running well below 5 amps. My strobes, efis panels,
nav lights, trim, some radios, gauges, led lights and so on all run in
the 1-3 amp range. Pretty soon these things will run on batteries and
well just place a solar panel on the wind screen and fly above the
clouds.
Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt
Prather
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses
<mprather@spro.net>
What size wire requires a fuse less than 5A? Or is this for another
application?
Matt-
>
> Does anyone know of a place to purchase 1,2 & 3 amp fuses on the
street?
> I've tried a number of auto stores, Walmart etc, but cannot find
> anything below 5 amp.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn
>
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
--
--Bill
So this is how democracy dies, with thunderous applause...
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses |
Hi Glen,
I just purchased 2 Amp fuses from Home Depot, the electrical parts
department.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
longg@pjm.com wrote:
>
> Does anyone know of a place to purchase 1,2 & 3 amp fuses on the street?
> I've tried a number of auto stores, Walmart etc, but cannot find
> anything below 5 amp.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn
>
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
Message 20
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Subject: | Need 1,2 & 3 amp fuses |
At 08:08 PM 11/7/2008 +0000, you wrote:
>Bill
>
>
>I am not an EE, as a matter of fact I m a Civil Eng, but it seems to me
>that although fuses are designed to protect the wire, the current (which
>determines the fuse Amp) that runs through the wire depends on the device
>it serves.
>
>For example, when installing the GPSx96 in the panel the instructions call
>for a 1A fuse or CB, and the AOA Cpu from Proprietary (now AFS) calls for
>4A, and Flightcom 403 intercom call for AWG 20 or 22 wire and 1A breaker/fuse.
>
>
>Am I missing something?
It's a matter of perspective. Folks who sell you an
electro-whizzy would appreciate it if you did not
power their 100 milliampere device with a 14AWG
wire and 15A breaker. The flight safety guys wouldn't
care, their job is to see that faults on the feeder
don't unnecessarily increase risk to the airframe.
But if the electro-whizzy shorts a 15-cent capacitor
and burns a trace on a board, the repairs may be
costly if not impossible. As a practical matter, you
(as system integrator, owner and operator) can choose
to run 14AWG wire for very low voltage drop and protect
with a 1A fuse for ECB protection without insulting
the bureaucrat or warranty service manager's sensibilities.
In the final analysis, you're the one who does the
implementation and is required to shoulder consequences.
This is one feature of Greg Richter's one-size-fits-all
philosophy of populating the power distribution with
one value of protection and routing power all over the
airplane on one size of wire. While it relieves the
installer of having to make any decisions it
keeps the thoughtful builder from tailoring system
components to satisfy a variety of design goals.
Bob . . .
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