Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:19 AM - Re: Need for start-up protection? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 08:07 AM - Re: Crimping of machined D-sub pins with 4-Way Indent Pin Crimper (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 09:15 AM - Re: Re: Trim Speed (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 09:59 AM - Re: Trim Speed (marcausman)
5. 10:19 AM - Re: Need for start-up protection? (marcausman)
6. 01:53 PM - Re: Re: Trim Speed (Dj Merrill)
7. 02:01 PM - Re: Re: Trim Speed (Dj Merrill)
8. 02:11 PM - Re: Crimping of machined D-sub pins with 4-Way Indent Pin Crimper (MauleDriver)
9. 04:21 PM - Re: Need for start-up protection? (F. Tim Yoder)
10. 06:52 PM - Re: Crimping of machined D-sub pins with 4-Way Indent Pin Crimper (Bill Schlatterer)
11. 08:29 PM - icom ic-a200 (bob noffs)
12. 09:06 PM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 12/10/08 (Michael Forhan)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Need for start-up protection? |
At 02:55 PM 12/10/2008, you wrote:
><ftyoder@yoderbuilt.com>
>
>Bob,
>I'm getting the impression you are fighting a Up Hill battle.
>However, the new plane I'm building will not have an Avionics Master Switch.
>
>An Old Dog has learned a new trick!
I don't fight battles. Gave that exercise up about 20
years ago when I went to work for OEM air-framers. One
can only be true to one's craft. Study the simple ideas
and how they assemble into useful inventions (good
engineering). Be willing to share that knowledge and
understanding (good teaching). But don't be discouraged
because managers with power over project will have
reasons for embracing alternatives (self preservation).
It's interesting that I'm presently working on a project
that I proposed to my management about 5 years ago to
replace a piece of 1970 technology (4 x 4 x 6" box
full of discrete components for $20K) with a new
design (2 x 2 x 1" box, thimbleful of discretes
and a microprocessor for $1K). We had the people,
the facilities and the excitement to make it happen
in-house. I had concurrence all the way up to the
chief scientist.
I'm brass-boarding the replacement product now as
a consultant to a supplier. My milestone presentation
on the project will be attended by many of those who
opposed doing it in the first place. I'm betting that
even if they remember my earlier proposal, they'll not
be the least bit embarrassed. It's their position that
we should stick to our "core competency" . . . assembling
purchased tinker-toys into airplanes. There's no need
to understand how the tinker-toys work!
I'm finding that this attitude prevails throughout the
general aviation industry. When I began working with
GA about 1975, folks in those facilities knew more
about my craft than I did. Many were my teachers.
Now it's rare to find even the most rudimentary
understanding of electronics at the OEM's.
The point of this long story is to re-enforce the
notion that there are folks with control of
a project that don't cherish confidence that
comes from understanding. The only path open
is to cling to tradition and cover their #$$@#
with lots of specs and requirements. If and when
the project flops, they are guiltless as long as
they produced the "golden requirements". It's
up to somebody else to deliver to those requirements.
It matters not that what they've asked for can not
. . . or should not be done. Our brothers building
airplanes are faced with many of the same
decisions placed before the managers at BeePipCesMo.
We can only be willing to share understanding. The ability/
willingness of individuals to exploit that understanding
is out of our hands. It benefits nobody for you or I
to bring clubs and shields to the conversation.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Crimping of machined D-sub pins with 4-Way |
Indent Pin Crimper
At 11:33 AM 12/10/2008, you wrote:
>I think I have several problems and oversights that need to be addressed.
>
>I'm using a tool that looks like this:
>http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/rct-3.jpg
>As you said, it is setup for one size of wire and one type of
>pin/socket. I've been using it on 20AWG and probably 22 AWG which
>would immediately indicate some inconsistency. But in this case, I
>was using it on 24AWG wires that was part of a pre-made harness pig tail.
>
>In addition, I was trying to strip the wire just far enough to
>barely clear or be flush with the pin. Given that this crimper
>seems to crimp concentrically at the the very tip of the pin,
>allowing any of the insulation into the pin could further compromise
>the crimp. (I'm attaching 2 pics of the pin that failed).
>I first need to determine what size wire the crimper is setup for
>and limit its use to that wire. And re-confirm I'm using the right
>pins (non-high density).
>
>For this particular connection involving the 24AWG wires, I'm going
>to follow your guidance on using a 9 pin D-sum with solder terminals
>along with shrink tubing, clear adhesive and more shrink
>tubing. It's a good solution for this particular connection.
>
>I'll have to take a closer look at the adjustable Daniels crimper if
>I want to get serious... but it may be too expensive to justify.
>
>What do you think?
Thanks for the great pictures. I've added those to my
reference library. It seems that Eclipse is back to their
old habits.
When I started stocking that tool many moons ago, I
discovered that the pin-positioner was cut wrong
allowing the pin to set too deep in the tool. This
causes the crimp to happen too far back on the wire
grip as shown here . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Positioner_Mod_0.jpg
I used to check every tool and modify as shown
here . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Positioner_Mod_1.jpg
I put every positioner in the lathe and cut it back
on the pin-entry end to achieve the dimension shown.
This moved the pin up in the too such that the
wire-grip was just flush to slightly under-flush
with the face of the tool.
B&C checked the tools too after I turned that
activity over to them. Tim reported to me some
months later that the pin-positioners were coming
in okay. I figured that it was the result of a
letter I wrote to Eclipse citing the problem.
The other part of your problem is putting 24AWG wires
into a 20/22 AWG pin. The tool is designed to have a slightly
over-crimp on 20AWG and slightly under-crimp on 22AWG.
This means it's way under-crimped for 24AWG. You fix this
by striping 24AWG wire 2X length for exposed strands and
fold the strands back to double the amount of copper
in the finished joint.
Alternatively, your idea of a fixed "plug" in the
bottom of the pin-positioner works too but you
have to be VERY careful about too much plug . . .
it can be hard to get out. You can use a small
twist drill to clear the hole.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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Some folks have asked about a clearer version of the Power
Point slides I published. Here it is:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Motors/DC_Motor_Performance_in_Small_Actuators.pdf
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 4
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If you are interested in a modern power management system for your aircraft that also includes variable-speed trim (runaway trim protection and backup trim controls too) take a look at Vertical Power www.verticalpower.com
In the case of the trim, we have chosen to use PWM to slow down the Ray Allen servos.
--------
Marc Ausman
http://www.verticalpower.com
RV-7 IO-390 Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218941#218941
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Need for start-up protection? |
This is an interesting discussion, and reflects on some of the main design decisions
on our flagship product, the VP-200. Flying is a lot about repetition and
process. We are taught to do the same things and follow the same process on
each flight. Essentially, you divide a flight into "sub-segments" like taxi,
takeoff, cruise, landing and then execute a series of checks and procedures for
each of those modes of flight.
And that's how the VP-200 works - you configure it to turn things on and off, confirm
configuration, and bring up checklist automatically for each mode of flight,
for example.
In the case of turning things on, you can configure it to turn on the avionics
automatically after the engine starts. The process is repeated with precision
on each flight. No 3% chance of error. Of course, this is a separate discussion
from whether the avionics can handle whatever the starting process throws at
them. The point is, much of the process involved in flying is repeatable by the
system so you can focus on actually flying the plane and critical tasks.
--------
Marc Ausman
http://www.verticalpower.com
RV-7 IO-390 Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218943#218943
Message 6
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You may consider checking out the Safety Trim system. I bought one, but
have not installed it yet so I can't tell you how well it works.
<http://www.tcwtech.com/Safety-Trim Page.htm>
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ KR-2 Builder N770DJ
http://deej.net/sportsman/ http://deej.net/kr-2/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
Message 7
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Dj Merrill wrote:
> <http://www.tcwtech.com/Safety-Trim Page.htm>
>
>
*sigh* I really hate it when people put spaces in web URLs. It
makes direct linking difficult.
Try going to <http://www.tcwtech.com/> and then click on the
"Safety-Trim" link if you want to see it.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ KR-2 Builder N770DJ
http://deej.net/sportsman/ http://deej.net/kr-2/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Crimping of machined D-sub pins with 4-Way |
Indent Pin Crimper
Thanks Bob! That is exactly the problem I have and the solution I'll apply.
It is an Eclipse (should have said that before). The barrel dimension
is .302" rather than .260".
This is has been a valuable exercise for this builder because I come
away with a better understanding of the process and the tools. And a
better understanding of how, as a homebuilder, I can learn and adapt
processes and tools to the building and maintaining of my custom craft.
I guess I'm just saying I grew a bit here.
Thanks to all of you that helped on and off the list. Good stuff.
Bill Watson
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 11:33 AM 12/10/2008, you wrote:
>> I think I have several problems and oversights that need to be
>> addressed.
>>
>> I'm using a tool that looks like this:
>> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/rct-3.jpg
>> As you said, it is setup for one size of wire and one type of
>> pin/socket. I've been using it on 20AWG and probably 22 AWG which
>> would immediately indicate some inconsistency. But in this case, I
>> was using it on 24AWG wires that was part of a pre-made harness pig
>> tail.
>>
>> In addition, I was trying to strip the wire just far enough to barely
>> clear or be flush with the pin. Given that this crimper seems to
>> crimp concentrically at the the very tip of the pin, allowing any of
>> the insulation into the pin could further compromise the crimp. (I'm
>> attaching 2 pics of the pin that failed).
>> I first need to determine what size wire the crimper is setup for and
>> limit its use to that wire. And re-confirm I'm using the right pins
>> (non-high density).
>>
>> For this particular connection involving the 24AWG wires, I'm going
>> to follow your guidance on using a 9 pin D-sum with solder terminals
>> along with shrink tubing, clear adhesive and more shrink tubing.
>> It's a good solution for this particular connection.
>>
>> I'll have to take a closer look at the adjustable Daniels crimper if
>> I want to get serious... but it may be too expensive to justify.
>>
>> What do you think?
>
> Thanks for the great pictures. I've added those to my
> reference library. It seems that Eclipse is back to their
> old habits.
>
> When I started stocking that tool many moons ago, I
> discovered that the pin-positioner was cut wrong
> allowing the pin to set too deep in the tool. This
> causes the crimp to happen too far back on the wire
> grip as shown here . . .
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Positioner_Mod_0.jpg
>
>
> I used to check every tool and modify as shown
> here . . .
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Positioner_Mod_1.jpg
>
>
> I put every positioner in the lathe and cut it back
> on the pin-entry end to achieve the dimension shown.
> This moved the pin up in the too such that the
> wire-grip was just flush to slightly under-flush
> with the face of the tool.
>
> B&C checked the tools too after I turned that
> activity over to them. Tim reported to me some
> months later that the pin-positioners were coming
> in okay. I figured that it was the result of a
> letter I wrote to Eclipse citing the problem.
>
> The other part of your problem is putting 24AWG wires
> into a 20/22 AWG pin. The tool is designed to have a slightly
> over-crimp on 20AWG and slightly under-crimp on 22AWG.
> This means it's way under-crimped for 24AWG. You fix this
> by striping 24AWG wire 2X length for exposed strands and
> fold the strands back to double the amount of copper
> in the finished joint.
>
> Alternatively, your idea of a fixed "plug" in the
> bottom of the pin-positioner works too but you
> have to be VERY careful about too much plug . . .
> it can be hard to get out. You can use a small
> twist drill to clear the hole.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Need for start-up protection? |
I agree, I believe this attitude prevails throughout industry, not limited
to the general aviation industry.
Another interesting ramification is the "Not Invented Here" syndrome. My
father was a Roto Gravure specialist and Inventor, as manager of Formica
Corp. he was unable to get many of his inventions out of their R&D Dept.
without the dept. heads name being included on the application. As you
suggested, many are more interested in their personal status than doing what
is best for the company.
I'm learning allot following the AeroElectric-List, thanks to your,and
others, participation...
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2008 8:17 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Need for start-up protection?
<nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 02:55 PM 12/10/2008, you wrote:
> ><ftyoder@yoderbuilt.com>
> >
> >Bob,
> >I'm getting the impression you are fighting a Up Hill battle.
> >However, the new plane I'm building will not have an Avionics Master
Switch.
> >
> >An Old Dog has learned a new trick!
>
> I don't fight battles. Gave that exercise up about 20
> years ago when I went to work for OEM air-framers. One
> can only be true to one's craft. Study the simple ideas
> and how they assemble into useful inventions (good
> engineering). Be willing to share that knowledge and
> understanding (good teaching). But don't be discouraged
> because managers with power over project will have
> reasons for embracing alternatives (self preservation).
>
> It's interesting that I'm presently working on a project
> that I proposed to my management about 5 years ago to
> replace a piece of 1970 technology (4 x 4 x 6" box
> full of discrete components for $20K) with a new
> design (2 x 2 x 1" box, thimbleful of discretes
> and a microprocessor for $1K). We had the people,
> the facilities and the excitement to make it happen
> in-house. I had concurrence all the way up to the
> chief scientist.
>
> I'm brass-boarding the replacement product now as
> a consultant to a supplier. My milestone presentation
> on the project will be attended by many of those who
> opposed doing it in the first place. I'm betting that
> even if they remember my earlier proposal, they'll not
> be the least bit embarrassed. It's their position that
> we should stick to our "core competency" . . . assembling
> purchased tinker-toys into airplanes. There's no need
> to understand how the tinker-toys work!
>
> I'm finding that this attitude prevails throughout the
> general aviation industry. When I began working with
> GA about 1975, folks in those facilities knew more
> about my craft than I did. Many were my teachers.
> Now it's rare to find even the most rudimentary
> understanding of electronics at the OEM's.
>
> The point of this long story is to re-enforce the
> notion that there are folks with control of
> a project that don't cherish confidence that
> comes from understanding. The only path open
> is to cling to tradition and cover their #$$@#
> with lots of specs and requirements. If and when
> the project flops, they are guiltless as long as
> they produced the "golden requirements". It's
> up to somebody else to deliver to those requirements.
>
> It matters not that what they've asked for can not
> . . . or should not be done. Our brothers building
> airplanes are faced with many of the same
> decisions placed before the managers at BeePipCesMo.
> We can only be willing to share understanding. The ability/
> willingness of individuals to exploit that understanding
> is out of our hands. It benefits nobody for you or I
> to bring clubs and shields to the conversation.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Crimping of machined D-sub pins with 4-Way Indent |
Pin Crimper
I used this crimper and D-Subs on my full panel with no problems but it is
not made to do 24 gauge wire. For that you need to double up the wire and
it will work fine. Assuming you are using 20-22g wire and pins this tool
works nicely.
One other caution is that with this tool you NEVER double crimp a fitting.
If you partially crimp one and then crimp again, you run the risk of taking
the normal 4 point crimp and making it into an 8 point buzz saw for the
wire. While you can carefully position a partially crimped terminal in the
jaws and crimp again, it is very likely to cut some or all of the stains in
the wire if not perfectly repositioned. If you want to try it just crimp a
wire, then rotate it 45 degrees and crimp again. Most likely, the wire will
easily break right at the terminal.
The trick with this tool is to strip the wire correctly and then hold the
pin in the tool with the wire inserted. Pressure on the wire keeps the pin
in the right place in the tool. Then make one smooth firm crimp and leave it
alone.
Hope this helps.
Bill S
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
MauleDriver
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Crimping of machined D-sub pins with 4-Way
Indent Pin Crimper
I think I have several problems and oversights that need to be addressed.
I'm using a tool that looks like this:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/rct-3.jpg
As you said, it is setup for one size of wire and one type of
pin/socket. I've been using it on 20AWG and probably 22 AWG which
would immediately indicate some inconsistency. But in this case, I was
using it on 24AWG wires that was part of a pre-made harness pig tail.
In addition, I was trying to strip the wire just far enough to barely clear
or be flush with the pin. Given that this crimper seems to crimp
concentrically at the the very tip of the pin, allowing any of the
insulation into the pin could further compromise the crimp. (I'm attaching
2 pics of the pin that failed).
I first need to determine what size wire the crimper is setup for and limit
its use to that wire. And re-confirm I'm using the right pins (non-high
density).
For this particular connection involving the 24AWG wires, I'm going to
follow your guidance on using a 9 pin D-sum with solder terminals along with
shrink tubing, clear adhesive and more shrink tubing. It's a good solution
for this particular connection.
I'll have to take a closer look at the adjustable Daniels crimper if I want
to get serious... but it may be too expensive to justify.
What do you think?
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 08:04 AM 12/10/2008, you wrote:
>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>>
>> I've become a bit concerned about the integrity of my crimped D-sub
>> pins and socket. I've been giving each connection a tug after
>> crimping and I just had one come off. Upon examination, I can't see
>> the difference between that connection and others I recently made.
>>
>> So the question is, what is the proper technique for crimping on
>> Machined D-sub pins with a 4-way indent pin crimper? I've searched
>> Bob's site and the Web in general and can't find any how-to
>> information. None came with the tool I obtained from Stein.
>>
>> In particular, how should the tool be adjusted? How far should the
>> wire be stripped (should the insulation be clear of the pin or should
>> it be in the pin)?
>
> Insulation can touch the pin but the wires need to be
> inserted a minimum depth as observed through the inspection
> hole. My installations have a pretty good gap between
> end of pin and insulation when the strands are fully
> inserted on the pin.
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_4-
> quad-crimp.jpg
>
>
> If your tool looks like this:
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/rct-3.jpg
>
> There are no adjustments to be made. The tool is set up for
> D-sub, 20AWG pins like . . .
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_20
> AWG_Pin.jpg
>
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_20
> AWG_Socket.jpg
>
>
> and should produce a finished joint like the first
> picture above.
>
> If your tool looks like this:
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Daniels_4-Qu
> ad_1.jpg
>
>
> then there are adjustments to be made in addition to selecting
> the right pin positioner. The tool should have come with instructions.
>
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Daniels_4-Qu
> ad_2.JPG
>
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Daniels_4-Qu
> ad_3.JPG
>
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Tool-Locater
> _Cross_Reference.jpg
>
>
>> Should I solder?
>
> No . . .
>
>
>> Avoid the crimp pins altogether and use solder-on D-subs?
>
> Millions of these pins are installed every day world wide and
> deliver as advertised. You need to figure out what's going on with
> your materials, tools, techniques . . .
>
>> Use the 'regular' crimp on, stamped pins instead?
>
> No, these are more problematic for the neophyte builder than
> machined pins. I don't even keep them in the shop. We've been 100%
> machined pins for 20+ years.
>
>> Crimp and solder (the hole in the barrel of the pin suggests that may
>> be an option).
>
> No, that's an inspection hole. If the wires are sufficiently
> inserted you can see the strands through the hole.
>
>
>> Advice or links are welcome. Thanks
>
> What tool do you have? What pins are you trying to install and
> what connector is the target residence for the pins? Are you
> trying to install 22AWG (high density) pins with the 20AWG
> standard density) tool?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 11
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hi all,
this is to anyone that has recently wired or looked at the installation
manual for this radio.
i wired this radio over a year ago and everything tested out fine.
today i was reinstalling all of my wiring for the last time and i
noticed a wire was broken at the molex connector. actually it looks more
like i cut it. i cant remember if i did cut it or why. the connector is
pin R. pin R and pin 14 connect to the power feed from the bus. the
schematic calls for the power to go to these 2 pins. anyone know of a
reason to feed pin14 and not pinR ?
any input appreciated.
bob noffs
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 12/10/08 |
OK, I've read the debate on the need for start-up protection and I can no longer
resist the temptation to weigh in with my 2 cents' worth:
1) With all due respect to my learned colleagues, I worked in the aerospace industry
for many years and have seen more than one product pass DO-160 testing and
subsequently fail in-service due to aircraft electrical system issues. There
are lots of reasons why this should not happen, but there are also lots of reasons
why it does happen.
2) Many of the tests in DO-160 have a number of test categories with differing
severity based on the anticipated electrical system characteristics to which the
product will be exposed. However, the "anticipated" characteristics may or
may not reflect the actual characteristics of any given OBAM aircraft. Further,
not all equipment is necessarily tested to the most severe category of DO-160.
3) My aircraft is day/VFR, so a total electrical failure is a nuisance, not a crisis.
Balancing the mission profile of MY aircraft and based upon my points
above, I would rather deal with the risk of a single-point failure of the avionics
master switch as opposed to the risk of damage to my avionics.
The foregoing is, admittedly, a personal choice that may not reflect others' situations
or opinions. I think it best that we concede that, like politics and
religion, reasonable minds may differ on the need for start-up protection. As
Bob has said many times, as aircraft builders we must each make the choices that
we deem appropriate for our aircraft.
Mike
--- On Wed, 12/10/08, AeroElectric-List Digest Server <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
wrote:
> From: AeroElectric-List Digest Server <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 12/10/08
> To: "AeroElectric-List Digest List" <aeroelectric-list-digest@matronics.com>
> Date: Wednesday, December 10, 2008, 11:55 PM
> *
>
> =================================================
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>
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> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
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>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> AeroElectric-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Wed 12/10/08: 23
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 03:56 AM - Re: portable, handheld (bob noffs)
> 2. 04:53 AM - Re: Break a P+B toggle circuit breaker
> (Robert Borger)
> 3. 05:53 AM - Re: Trim Speed (Dr. Andrew Elliott)
> 4. 06:07 AM - Crimping of machined D-sub pins with
> 4-Way Indent Pin Crimper (MauleDriver)
> 5. 06:54 AM - Re: Crimping of machined D-sub pins with
> 4-Way Indent Pin Crimper (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
> 6. 07:00 AM - Re: portable, handheld (Larry Mac
> Donald)
> 7. 07:35 AM - Re: Break a P+B toggle circuit breaker
> (earl_schroeder@juno.com)
> 8. 07:47 AM - Re: Crimping of machined D-sub pins with
> 4-Way Indent Pin Crimper ()
> 9. 08:19 AM - Re: Trim Speed (Eric M. Jones)
> 10. 08:29 AM - Re: Need for start-up protection? (Eric
> M. Jones)
> 11. 09:28 AM - Re: Need for start-up protection?
> (Ernest Christley)
> 12. 09:34 AM - Re: Crimping of machined D-sub pins with
> 4-Way Indent Pin Crimper (MauleDriver)
> 13. 09:57 AM - Re: Re: Trim Speed (Robert L. Nuckolls,
> III)
> 14. 10:01 AM - Re: Need for start-up protection?
> (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
> 15. 10:06 AM - Re: Crimping of machined D-sub pins with
> 4-Way Indent Pin Crimper (Werner Schneider)
> 16. 12:08 PM - Re: Crimping of machined D-sub pins with
> 4-Way Indent Pin Crimper (Charlie England)
> 17. 01:03 PM - Re: Need for start-up protection? (F.
> Tim Yoder)
> 18. 02:00 PM - Re: Need for start-up protection? (Dale
> Rogers)
> 19. 02:52 PM - Re: Crimping of machined D-sub pins with
> 4-Way Indent Pin Crimper (MauleDriver)
> 20. 06:01 PM - Re: Need for start-up protection?
> (Bob-tcw)
> 21. 07:18 PM - Re: Crimping of machined D-sub pins with
> 4-Way Indent Pin Crimper (Ron Quillin)
> 22. 07:24 PM - Re: Crimping of machined D-sub pins with
> 4-Way Indent Pin Crimper (Ron Quillin)
> 23. 09:48 PM - Re: Break a P+B toggle circuit breaker
> (rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 03:56:07 AM PST US
> From: "bob noffs" <icubob@newnorth.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: portable, handheld
>
> joe, that's it! thanks, bob noffs
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Joemotis@aol.com
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2008 10:26 PM
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: portable, handheld
>
>
> A tick tracer is used to detect voltage by induction. I
> believe that
> what he is looking for is a Toner. A toner is a 9 volt
> powered signal
> generator with 2 leads to clip to the conductor and a
> ground/ The other
> half is an inductive amplifier that picks up the signal
> usually a DeeDO
> "tone" Quite useful on telephone back boards and
> any place else you are
> trying to pick a conductor out of a rat's nest.
>
> Joe Motis
>
> Do no Archive
>
> In a message dated 12/9/2008 7:46:33 P.M. Pacific
> Standard Time,
> elhershb@comcast.net writes:
> That would be a tick tracer.
>
> Ed Hershberger
> 40430
> Fuse
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "bob noffs"
> <icubob@newnorth.net>
>
> hi all, there is a portable , handheld device[ like
> an ammeter]
> that will allow you to follow a wire thru a bundle of wires
> by attaching
> one end to the wire inside the conductor. then the device
> will pick out
> the wire in a bundle. what is this thing called, please?
> bob noffs
>
>
> ://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> st
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.
> matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
> .matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -----
> Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and
> favorite sites
> in one pcid=emlcntaolcom00000010">Try it now.
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 04:53:15 AM PST US
> From: Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Break a P+B toggle circuit
> breaker
>
>
> Ron,
>
> Please post the pics in an album on your build website.
>
> Bob Borger
>
> On Wednesday, December 10, 2008, at 01:43AM,
> <rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US> wrote:
> >
> >
> >If anyone wants to see some pics let me know.
> >
> >Ron Parigoris
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 05:53:39 AM PST US
> From: "Dr. Andrew Elliott"
> <a.s.elliott@cox.net>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Trim Speed
>
> No need for a fancy controller unless you want a
> continuously variable
> response. Try a diode or two in the line. Each diode will
> drop the
> voltage about 0.8-0.9 volts. Be sure you use diodes that
> can handle the
> load. Example - A 1N4001 might be rated for 1A at 50V.
> Should be fine,
> I'd think.
>
> Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
> N601GE,601XL/TD,Corvair
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:07:17 AM PST US
> From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Crimping of machined D-sub pins
> with 4-Way Indent Pin
> Crimper
>
>
> I've become a bit concerned about the integrity of my
> crimped D-sub pins
> and socket. I've been giving each connection a tug
> after crimping and I
> just had one come off. Upon examination, I can't see
> the difference
> between that connection and others I recently made.
>
> So the question is, what is the proper technique for
> crimping on
> Machined D-sub pins with a 4-way indent pin crimper?
> I've searched
> Bob's site and the Web in general and can't find
> any how-to
> information. None came with the tool I obtained from
> Stein.
>
> In particular, how should the tool be adjusted? How far
> should the wire
> be stripped (should the insulation be clear of the pin or
> should it be
> in the pin)?
>
> Should I solder? Avoid the crimp pins altogether and use
> solder-on
> D-subs? Use the 'regular' crimp on, stamped pins
> instead? Crimp and
> solder (the hole in the barrel of the pin suggests that may
> be an option).
>
> Advice or links are welcome. Thanks
>
> Bill "building an RV10 panel" Watson
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 5
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:54:58 AM PST US
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Crimping of machined D-sub
> pins with 4-Way Indent
> Pin Crimper
>
>
> At 08:04 AM 12/10/2008, you wrote:
> >
> >I've become a bit concerned about the integrity of
> my crimped D-sub
> >pins and socket. I've been giving each connection
> a tug after
> >crimping and I just had one come off. Upon
> examination, I can't see
> >the difference between that connection and others I
> recently made.
> >
> >So the question is, what is the proper technique for
> crimping on
> >Machined D-sub pins with a 4-way indent pin crimper?
> I've searched
> >Bob's site and the Web in general and can't
> find any how-to
> >information. None came with the tool I obtained from
> Stein.
> >
> >In particular, how should the tool be adjusted? How
> far should the
> >wire be stripped (should the insulation be clear of the
> pin or
> >should it be in the pin)?
>
> Insulation can touch the pin but the wires need to be
> inserted a minimum depth as observed through the
> inspection
> hole. My installations have a pretty good gap between
> end of pin and insulation when the strands are fully
> inserted on the pin.
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_4-quad-crimp.jpg
>
>
> If your tool looks like this:
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/rct-3.jpg
>
> There are no adjustments to be made. The tool is set up
> for
> D-sub, 20AWG pins like . . .
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_20AWG_Pin.jpg
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_20AWG_Socket.jpg
>
> and should produce a finished joint like the first
> picture above.
>
> If your tool looks like this:
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Daniels_4-Quad_1.jpg
>
> then there are adjustments to be made in addition to
> selecting
> the right pin positioner. The tool should have come with
> instructions.
>
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Daniels_4-Quad_2.JPG
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Daniels_4-Quad_3.JPG
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Tool-Locater_Cross_Reference.jpg
>
>
> >Should I solder?
>
> No . . .
>
>
> > Avoid the crimp pins altogether and use solder-on
> D-subs?
>
> Millions of these pins are installed every day world wide
> and
> deliver as advertised. You need to figure out what's
> going
> on with your materials, tools, techniques . . .
>
> >Use the 'regular' crimp on, stamped pins
> instead?
>
> No, these are more problematic for the neophyte builder
> than
> machined pins. I don't even keep them in the shop.
> We've
> been 100% machined pins for 20+ years.
>
> >Crimp and solder (the hole in the barrel of the pin
> suggests that
> >may be an option).
>
> No, that's an inspection hole. If the wires are
> sufficiently
> inserted you can see the strands through the hole.
>
>
> >Advice or links are welcome. Thanks
>
> What tool do you have? What pins are you trying to
> install and
> what connector is the target residence for the pins? Are
> you
> trying to install 22AWG (high density) pins with the
> 20AWG
> standard density) tool?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:00:18 AM PST US
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: portable, handheld
> From: Larry Mac Donald <lm4@juno.com>
>
>
> I believe your talking about a circuit tracer !
>
> On Tue, 9 Dec 2008 21:26:50 -0600 "bob noffs"
> <icubob@newnorth.net>
> writes:
> > hi all, there is a portable , handheld device[ like an
> ammeter] that
> > will allow you to follow a wire thru a bundle of wires
> by attaching
> > one end to the wire inside the conductor. then the
> device will pick
> > out the wire in a bundle. what is this thing called,
> please?
> > bob noffs
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Click here for free information on consolidating your debt.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw2PBHOxNVrx6k3ZAyz5akIp3WQZhlKJ6mUzFuJ6GJ49mzmoJ/
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 7
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:35:12 AM PST US
> From: "earl_schroeder@juno.com"
> <earl_schroeder@juno.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Break a P+B toggle circuit
> breaker
>
>
> Interesting.. last evening I set about replacing a deep
> well pump pressure switch
> that had a water leak. Three of the screws were easily
> loosened and the appropriate
> wires attached. The fourth one was so tight [done by the
> assembler
> at the factory] that I needed a small compound pliers and
> much effort to break
> it loose since a phillips screwdriver sized correctly and a
> flat screwdriver
> just would not do the job and about to destroy the screw
> head.
>
> I even mentioned this 'problem' to my wife after
> successful completion with the
> comment that 'some little Chinese girl had over used
> the air operated driver
> when assembling the switch'.
>
> Of course the only switches available at Lowes were all
> 'Made in China'...
>
> Frustrating to say the least.. Earl
> do not archive
>
> -- rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US wrote:
>
> Borrowed a new P+B toggle circuit breaker form local IA to
> help with
> design of electrical stuff that is going in and behind
> passenger headrest
> of our Europa XS monowheel.
>
> I wanted to screw on a ring terminals to get better idea of
> space
> requirements.
>
> Sounds easy enough. Grabbed my favorite #2 screwdriver and
> removed first
> screw, the second one was unbelievably tight. I got it
> loose, but put a
> crack in the plastic housing because the torque required to
> loosen the
> screw distorted the lug. What an idiot, even though the
> factory should
> have not tightened down the screw so tight, I should have
> just held the
> lug with a pair of pliers to prevent any stress from being
> transmitted to
> housing, instead of holding the housing and loosening the
> screw.
>
> OK $25 mistake, won't let that happen again. Figured
> would let others in
> on my mistake so it happens not to you.
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
> Since I am now the proud owner of a cracked P+B toggle
> breaker, even
> though a little JB Weld could fix it, I decided to dissect.
> I never liked
> the high factor of wigulation (feel) the toggle has on
> these units so
> figured I needed a look. My business is copiers, and
> several times a year
> I end up taking apart switches and relays to do field
> repair to get
> machines going till I can obtain a new one. I am pretty
> aware of what
> fails in electrical parts such as this.
>
> WOW!!! If you ever wondered why a P+B non pull able breaker
> is around 5
> bucks, and why a P+B toggle breaker is around $25, take a
> look inside.
> There are close to 4 dozen parts on the toggle breaker!
>
> >From talking to people who have experience with these
> toggle breakers long
> term, they acknowledge good reliability, but man are there
> a lot of things
> in there that can fail. One thing I am pretty confident
> assuming, once
> breaker is closed I think it will maintain a pretty
> reliable connection.
>
> Trying to close contacts is a different story. It is a
> mechanical
> nightmare that highly stresses many components. There are
> things that are
> greased, and when it becomes well used and grease goes away
> from the
> friction contact area and strategic plastic parts such as
> the white
> plastic lever that connects the toggle with the main
> mechanism become
> brittle, I can see a failure when trying to close contacts.
>
> I went as far as reassembling the unit onto just one side,
> installed
> bracing, bonded strategic pins, levers and springs so the
> unit can be
> operated with half the cover is off!
>
> Guess this is a leftover from when I was a kid playing with
> invisible V8s
> and invisible radial aeroplane motors.
>
> Impressive unit.
>
> If anyone wants to see some pics let me know.
>
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 8
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:47:00 AM PST US
> From: <rv@thelefflers.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Crimping of machined D-sub
> pins with 4-Way Indent
> Pin Crimper
>
>
> Bill,
>
> Marc has posted a good document on his website concerning
> connectors. http://www.verticalpower.com/documents.html
>
> I've picked up the Daniels crimper of Ebay, so I
> can't offer any advice on the
> 4way ident crimper.
>
> I would recommend not using solder. I think that is just
> putting a ticking time
> bomb into your panel.
>
> bob
>
> >
> > From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> > Date: 2008/12/10 Wed AM 09:04:18 EST
> > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Crimping of machined D-sub
> pins with 4-Way Indent
> Pin Crimper
> >
> >
> > I've become a bit concerned about the integrity of
> my crimped D-sub pins
> > and socket. I've been giving each connection a
> tug after crimping and I
> > just had one come off. Upon examination, I can't
> see the difference
> > between that connection and others I recently made.
> >
> > So the question is, what is the proper technique for
> crimping on
> > Machined D-sub pins with a 4-way indent pin crimper?
> I've searched
> > Bob's site and the Web in general and can't
> find any how-to
> > information. None came with the tool I obtained from
> Stein.
> >
> > In particular, how should the tool be adjusted? How
> far should the wire
> > be stripped (should the insulation be clear of the pin
> or should it be
> > in the pin)?
> >
> > Should I solder? Avoid the crimp pins altogether and
> use solder-on
> > D-subs? Use the 'regular' crimp on, stamped
> pins instead? Crimp and
> > solder (the hole in the barrel of the pin suggests
> that may be an option).
> >
> > Advice or links are welcome. Thanks
> >
> > Bill "building an RV10 panel" Watson
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 9
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:19:36 AM PST US
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Trim Speed
> From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>
>
> The correct way to reduce the speed is to pulse-width
> modulate the input (kind
> of like jabbing the button fast). Reducing the voltage
> reduces the motor torque
> and thus the trim force. You might get away with it in some
> applications...but
> still...there is a point where applying low voltage to a
> stalled armature will
> just fry the brushes.
>
> --------
> Eric M. Jones
> www.PerihelionDesign.com
> 113 Brentwood Drive
> Southbridge, MA 01550
> (508) 764-2072
> emjones@charter.net
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218674#218674
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 10
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:29:19 AM PST US
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Need for start-up
> protection?
> From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>
>
> Your automobile doesn't require some
> "special" technique to get everything going.
> This is the classic "accident waiting to happen".
>
> The Air Force did a study of airmen where they turned on a
> red/green indicator
> light and the airman had to push a button in response to
> the green light. In
> about three cases per-thousand, the very best airmen either
> didn't push the button
> when the green light turned on, or pushed the button when
> the red light turned
> on. This seems to be the performance limit of for the best
> human brains.
>
>
> So if you have to turn off the avionics before starting.
> You'll screw it up 0.3
> percent of the time. This can be expensive, and
> unnecessary.
>
> --------
> Eric M. Jones
> www.PerihelionDesign.com
> 113 Brentwood Drive
> Southbridge, MA 01550
> (508) 764-2072
> emjones@charter.net
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218680#218680
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 11
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:28:06 AM PST US
> From: Ernest Christley <echristley@nc.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Need for start-up
> protection?
>
>
> Eric M. Jones wrote:
> >
> > Your automobile doesn't require some
> "special" technique to get everything going.
> This is the classic "accident waiting to happen".
> >
> > The Air Force did a study of airmen where they turned
> on a red/green indicator
> light and the airman had to push a button in response to
> the green light. In
> about three cases per-thousand, the very best airmen either
> didn't push the
> button when the green light turned on, or pushed the button
> when the red light
> turned on. This seems to be the performance limit of for
> the best human brains.
>
> >
> > So if you have to turn off the avionics before
> starting. You'll screw it up 0.3
> percent of the time. This can be expensive, and
> unnecessary.
> >
> >
> Exactly, Eric. Years of training to work around a problem
> will never
> beat eliminating the problem in the first place.
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 12
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:34:20 AM PST US
> From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Crimping of machined D-sub
> pins with 4-Way Indent
> Pin Crimper
>
> I think I have several problems and oversights that need to
> be addressed.
>
> I'm using a tool that looks like this:
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/rct-3.jpg
> As you said, it is setup for one size of wire and one type
> of
> pin/socket. I've been using it on 20AWG and probably
> 22 AWG which
> would immediately indicate some inconsistency. But in this
> case, I was
> using it on 24AWG wires that was part of a pre-made harness
> pig tail.
>
> In addition, I was trying to strip the wire just far enough
> to barely
> clear or be flush with the pin. Given that this crimper
> seems to crimp
> concentrically at the the very tip of the pin, allowing any
> of the
> insulation into the pin could further compromise the crimp.
> (I'm
> attaching 2 pics of the pin that failed).
>
> I first need to determine what size wire the crimper is
> setup for and
> limit its use to that wire. And re-confirm I'm using
> the right pins
> (non-high density).
>
> For this particular connection involving the 24AWG wires,
> I'm going to
> follow your guidance on using a 9 pin D-sum with solder
> terminals along
> with shrink tubing, clear adhesive and more shrink tubing.
> It's a good
> solution for this particular connection.
>
> I'll have to take a closer look at the adjustable
> Daniels crimper if I
> want to get serious... but it may be too expensive to
> justify.
>
> What do you think?
>
>
> Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> > <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
> >
> > At 08:04 AM 12/10/2008, you wrote:
> >> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> >>
> >> I've become a bit concerned about the
> integrity of my crimped D-sub
> >> pins and socket. I've been giving each
> connection a tug after
> >> crimping and I just had one come off. Upon
> examination, I can't see
> >> the difference between that connection and others
> I recently made.
> >>
> >> So the question is, what is the proper technique
> for crimping on
> >> Machined D-sub pins with a 4-way indent pin
> crimper? I've searched
> >> Bob's site and the Web in general and
> can't find any how-to
> >> information. None came with the tool I obtained
> from Stein.
> >>
> >> In particular, how should the tool be adjusted?
> How far should the
> >> wire be stripped (should the insulation be clear
> of the pin or should
> >> it be in the pin)?
> >
> > Insulation can touch the pin but the wires need to
> be
> > inserted a minimum depth as observed through the
> inspection
> > hole. My installations have a pretty good gap
> between
> > end of pin and insulation when the strands are fully
> > inserted on the pin.
> >
> >
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_4-quad-crimp.jpg
>
> >
> >
> > If your tool looks like this:
> >
> >
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/rct-3.jpg
> >
> > There are no adjustments to be made. The tool is set
> up for
> > D-sub, 20AWG pins like . . .
> >
> >
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_20AWG_Pin.jpg
>
> >
> >
> >
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_20AWG_Socket.jpg
>
> >
> >
> > and should produce a finished joint like the first
> > picture above.
> >
> > If your tool looks like this:
> >
> >
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Daniels_4-Quad_1.jpg
>
> >
> >
> > then there are adjustments to be made in addition to
> selecting
> > the right pin positioner. The tool should have come
> with instructions.
> >
> >
> >
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Daniels_4-Quad_2.JPG
>
> >
> >
> >
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Daniels_4-Quad_3.JPG
>
> >
> >
> >
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Tool-Locater_Cross_Reference.jpg
>
> >
> >
> >> Should I solder?
> >
> > No . . .
> >
> >
> >> Avoid the crimp pins altogether and use solder-on
> D-subs?
> >
> > Millions of these pins are installed every day world
> wide and
> > deliver as advertised. You need to figure out
> what's going
> > on with your materials, tools, techniques . . .
> >
> >> Use the 'regular' crimp on, stamped pins
> instead?
> >
> > No, these are more problematic for the neophyte
> builder than
> > machined pins. I don't even keep them in the
> shop. We've
> > been 100% machined pins for 20+ years.
> >
> >> Crimp and solder (the hole in the barrel of the
> pin suggests that may
> >> be an option).
> >
> > No, that's an inspection hole. If the wires are
> sufficiently
> > inserted you can see the strands through the hole.
> >
> >
> >> Advice or links are welcome. Thanks
> >
> > What tool do you have? What pins are you trying to
> install and
> > what connector is the target residence for the pins?
> Are you
> > trying to install 22AWG (high density) pins with the
> 20AWG
> > standard density) tool?
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 13
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:57:30 AM PST US
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Trim Speed
>
>
>
> >The correct way to reduce the speed is to pulse-width
> modulate the
> >input (kind of like jabbing the button fast). Reducing
> the voltage
> >reduces the motor torque and thus the trim force. You
> might get away
> >with it in some applications...but still...there is a
> point where
> >applying low voltage to a stalled armature will just
> fry the brushes.
>
> This is not true. Motor torque is a function of average
> armature current . . . whether the voltage is supplied
> as a steady state or pulse-width modulated source. The
> only way to reduce speed while RETAINING the
> actuator's
> maximum torque capabilities is to add electronics that
> maintains motor speed irrespective of load and voltage
> (within bounds).
>
> I did a tutorial on motor performance for a client last
> week. Here's the set of power point slides I used in
> that presentation.
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Motors/DC_Motor_Performance_in_small_Actuators.ppt
>
> There are three major drivers of motor performance.
> (1) internal losses - i.e. total resistance of
> brushes and windings. (2) Torque constant (Kt)
> as a function proportional to average current.
> (3) Counter emf constant as a function proporational
> to motor RPM.
>
> The first three figures in the PP presentation
> speak to ways these parameters can be measured for
> any particular PM motor.
>
> Figure 4 is a compendium of motor performance
> constants and their relationships with respect to
> the speed that a motor can be expected to run
> when the applied voltage and torque requirements
> are known. Of particular interest is the last
> expression in the top box where all constants
> are combined in the Great Motor Performance
> formula.
>
> There are ways the algebraic models can be illustrated
> and analyzed graphically. Figure 5 shows the speed
> torque curve for a motor we were discussing for
> a particular small actuator design.
>
> Stall torque at 28v applied = 4.5 in-oz
> Stall current at 28V = .74 amps yielding
> a K(t) value of 6.1 in-oz/amp.
> Counter EMF constant K(e) of 4.5v/1000RPM
> Internal resistance of 37.8 ohms at room
> temperature.
>
> Figure 5 explores the effects of variable
> system loads when the motor is supplied
> with fixed voltages. The top set of data
> points show that over an operating range
> of .72 to 1.82 in-oz of torque, the speed
> of this motor can be expected to run between
> 5340 RPM at (C) and 3780 RPM at (B).
>
> Let us suppose we want to drive the actuator
> at 1/6th nominal speed over the same ranges
> of load torque. With a nominal load of 1.22
> in-oz, the voltage needs to be reduced to
> 11.2 volts. Now as torque varies over the
> same range, speed varies from 1430 RPM at
> (F) and is incapable of carrying the expected
> torque level. The motor will stall.
>
> Figure 6 shows us what's necessary to maintain
> a constant speed over full torque range. Here
> we see that 11.2 volts gets us 1/6th speed
> at nominal torque. At full torque (point H)
> we need to increase applied voltage to
> 15.1 volts. At minimum torque (point J),
> applied voltage can be reduced to 8 volts
> applied. This functionality can be achieved
> ONLY with active electronics that adjusts
> motor applied voltage such that speed is
> well regulated.
>
> Smart DC motor controls for maintenance of
> speed under variable loads is what butters
> our bread these days.
>
> It matters not how the voltage is adjusted.
> It can be smart voltage regulator, duty-cycle
> pwm, or even a series resistor. NONE of these
> techniques will offer a STABLE speed with
> respect to load.
>
> Having said that, the effects of constant
> applied voltage for the Ray-Allen actuators
> is not too big a deal. The reason for slowing
> them down is to effect good control over fine
> changes in pitch at cruising speed. Torque
> loads on the actuator under this condition are
> not wildly variable. Set the voltage at the
> most useful speed and you'll probably not notice
> much variability of performance at cruise.
>
> For approach to landing, running the motor wide
> open is often the solution in order to achieve
> rapid changes in combinations of descent rate/
> airspeed/power during approach maneuvers.
>
> There's a host of articles on motor performance
> on the 'net for those interested in exploring these
> critters in more detail.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 14
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 10:01:42 AM PST US
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Need for start-up
> protection?
>
>
> At 10:28 AM 12/10/2008, you wrote:
> >
> >Your automobile doesn't require some
> "special" technique to get
> >everything going. This is the classic "accident
> waiting to happen".
> >
> >The Air Force did a study of airmen where they turned
> on a
> >red/green indicator light and the airman had to push a
> button in
> >response to the green light. In about three cases
> per-thousand, the
> >very best airmen either didn't push the button when
> the green light
> >turned on, or pushed the button when the red light
> turned on. This
> >seems to be the performance limit of for the best
> human brains.
> >
> >So if you have to turn off the avionics before
> starting. You'll
> >screw it up 0.3 percent of the time. This can be
> expensive, and unnecessary.
>
> Which presupposes that the reason for turning the
> avionics
> OFF in the first place is the magic wand that prevents
> expensive damage. In support of the study cited above, I
> can't tell you how many times I got into an airplane
> where
> the avionics master switch was already ON. Since the
> pre-flight
> check list doesn't say "Avionics Master Switch
> - Check OFF"
> then the electro-whizzies would already be ON when I
> started
> the engine. I'll suggest it's even more common
> than the
> 3 per thousand events cited.
>
> Bottom line is that it doesn't matter.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------)
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 15
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 10:06:24 AM PST US
> From: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Crimping of machined D-sub
> pins with 4-Way
> Indent Pin Crimper
>
>
> That crimp seems to be to far to the end for me, mine are
> in the centre
> of the rear cylindrical part, so I'm afraid it's
> not properly adjusted.
>
> AWG 24 will be to small for this pins (however you might be
> able when
> doubling the wires to get a good grip, just the number of
> strands are
> marginal if no strain relief on a d-sub case housing is
> done)
>
> br Werner
>
> MauleDriver wrote:
> > I think I have several problems and oversights that
> need to be addressed.
> >
> > I'm using a tool that looks like this:
> >
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/rct-3.jpg
> > As you said, it is setup for one size of wire and one
> type of
> > pin/socket. I've been using it on 20AWG and
> probably 22 AWG which
> > would immediately indicate some inconsistency. But in
> this case, I
> > was using it on 24AWG wires that was part of a
> pre-made harness pig tail.
> >
> > In addition, I was trying to strip the wire just far
> enough to barely
> > clear or be flush with the pin. Given that this
> crimper seems to
> > crimp concentrically at the the very tip of the pin,
> allowing any of
> > the insulation into the pin could further compromise
> the crimp. (I'm
> > attaching 2 pics of the pin that failed).
> > I first need to determine what size wire the crimper
> is setup for and
> > limit its use to that wire. And re-confirm I'm
> using the right pins
> > (non-high density).
> >
> > For this particular connection involving the 24AWG
> wires, I'm going to
> > follow your guidance on using a 9 pin D-sum with
> solder terminals
> > along with shrink tubing, clear adhesive and more
> shrink tubing. It's
> > a good solution for this particular connection.
> >
> > I'll have to take a closer look at the adjustable
> Daniels crimper if I
> > want to get serious... but it may be too expensive to
> justify.
> >
> > What do you think?
> >
> >
> > Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> >> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
> >>
> >> At 08:04 AM 12/10/2008, you wrote:
> >>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> >>>
> >>> I've become a bit concerned about the
> integrity of my crimped D-sub
> >>> pins and socket. I've been giving each
> connection a tug after
> >>> crimping and I just had one come off. Upon
> examination, I can't see
> >>> the difference between that connection and
> others I recently made.
> >>>
> >>> So the question is, what is the proper
> technique for crimping on
> >>> Machined D-sub pins with a 4-way indent pin
> crimper? I've searched
> >>> Bob's site and the Web in general and
> can't find any how-to
> >>> information. None came with the tool I
> obtained from Stein.
> >>>
> >>> In particular, how should the tool be
> adjusted? How far should the
> >>> wire be stripped (should the insulation be
> clear of the pin or
> >>> should it be in the pin)?
> >>
> >> Insulation can touch the pin but the wires need
> to be
> >> inserted a minimum depth as observed through the
> inspection
> >> hole. My installations have a pretty good gap
> between
> >> end of pin and insulation when the strands are
> fully
> >> inserted on the pin.
> >>
> >>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_4-quad-crimp.jpg
>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> If your tool looks like this:
> >>
> >>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/rct-3.jpg
> >>
> >> There are no adjustments to be made. The tool is
> set up for
> >> D-sub, 20AWG pins like . . .
> >>
> >>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_20AWG_Pin.jpg
>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_20AWG_Socket.jpg
>
> >>
> >>
> >> and should produce a finished joint like the
> first
> >> picture above.
> >>
> >> If your tool looks like this:
> >>
> >>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Daniels_4-Quad_1.jpg
>
> >>
> >>
> >> then there are adjustments to be made in
> addition to selecting
> >> the right pin positioner. The tool should have
> come with instructions.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Daniels_4-Quad_2.JPG
>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Daniels_4-Quad_3.JPG
>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Tool-Locater_Cross_Reference.jpg
>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> Should I solder?
> >>
> >> No . . .
> >>
> >>
> >>> Avoid the crimp pins altogether and use
> solder-on D-subs?
> >>
> >> Millions of these pins are installed every day
> world wide and
> >> deliver as advertised. You need to figure out
> what's going
> >> on with your materials, tools, techniques . . .
> >>
> >>> Use the 'regular' crimp on, stamped
> pins instead?
> >>
> >> No, these are more problematic for the neophyte
> builder than
> >> machined pins. I don't even keep them in the
> shop. We've
> >> been 100% machined pins for 20+ years.
> >>
> >>> Crimp and solder (the hole in the barrel of
> the pin suggests that
> >>> may be an option).
> >>
> >> No, that's an inspection hole. If the wires
> are sufficiently
> >> inserted you can see the strands through the
> hole.
> >>
> >>
> >>> Advice or links are welcome. Thanks
> >>
> >> What tool do you have? What pins are you trying
> to install and
> >> what connector is the target residence for the
> pins? Are you
> >> trying to install 22AWG (high density) pins with
> the 20AWG
> >> standard density) tool?
> >>
> >> Bob . . .
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 16
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 12:08:14 PM PST US
> From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Crimping of machined D-sub
> pins with 4-Way Indent
> Pin Crimper
>
>
> Having worked with both solder and crimp for around 30
> years, I'd have
> to say that the solder comment is...terrorism?? ;-)
>
> I've seen solder joints fail when they weren't done
> properly, and I've
> seen crimps fail when they weren't done properly.
>
> I've seen wires break where the 'wicked' (one
> syllable) solder stopped
> in the wire, and I've seen wires break at the end of a
> crimped
> connector. Either will break if not properly supported
> outside the joint.
>
> Until the recent availability of inexpensive d-sub
> crimpers, you had to
> just be a tool collector to buy a crimper for the few
> hundred
> connections in one airplane when solder works just as well
> and the
> amortized cost of the crimper alone was roughly $1 per
> crimp. The solder
> cup type connectors are still a lot cheaper than the
> machined removable
> pins; they are just less convenient to wire for a novice.
>
> I actually have more faith in solder, but admit that
> it's largely
> personal preference.
>
> Charlie
>
> rv@thelefflers.com wrote:
> >
> > Bill,
> >
> > Marc has posted a good document on his website
> concerning connectors.
> http://www.verticalpower.com/documents.html
> >
> > I've picked up the Daniels crimper of Ebay, so I
> can't offer any advice on the
> 4way ident crimper.
> >
> > I would recommend not using solder. I think that is
> just putting a ticking time
> bomb into your panel.
> >
> > bob
> >
> >
> >> From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> >> Date: 2008/12/10 Wed AM 09:04:18 EST
> >> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> >> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Crimping of machined
> D-sub pins with 4-Way Indent
> Pin Crimper
> >>
> >>
> >> I've become a bit concerned about the
> integrity of my crimped D-sub pins
> >> and socket. I've been giving each connection
> a tug after crimping and I
> >> just had one come off. Upon examination, I
> can't see the difference
> >> between that connection and others I recently
> made.
> >>
> >> So the question is, what is the proper technique
> for crimping on
> >> Machined D-sub pins with a 4-way indent pin
> crimper? I've searched
> >> Bob's site and the Web in general and
> can't find any how-to
> >> information. None came with the tool I obtained
> from Stein.
> >>
> >> In particular, how should the tool be adjusted?
> How far should the wire
> >> be stripped (should the insulation be clear of the
> pin or should it be
> >> in the pin)?
> >>
> >> Should I solder? Avoid the crimp pins altogether
> and use solder-on
> >> D-subs? Use the 'regular' crimp on,
> stamped pins instead? Crimp and
> >> solder (the hole in the barrel of the pin suggests
> that may be an option).
> >>
> >> Advice or links are welcome. Thanks
> >>
> >> Bill "building an RV10 panel" Watson
> >>
> >>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 17
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:03:54 PM PST US
> From: "F. Tim Yoder"
> <ftyoder@yoderbuilt.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Need for start-up
> protection?
>
>
> Bob,
> I'm getting the impression you are fighting a Up Hill
> battle.
> However, the new plane I'm building will not have an
> Avionics Master Switch.
>
> An Old Dog has learned a new trick!
>
> Tim
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 11:00 AM
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Need for start-up
> protection?
>
>
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
> >
> > At 10:28 AM 12/10/2008, you wrote:
> <emjones@charter.net>
> > >
> > >Your automobile doesn't require some
> "special" technique to get
> > >everything going. This is the classic
> "accident waiting to happen".
> > >
> > >The Air Force did a study of airmen where they
> turned on a
> > >red/green indicator light and the airman had to
> push a button in
> > >response to the green light. In about three cases
> per-thousand, the
> > >very best airmen either didn't push the button
> when the green light
> > >turned on, or pushed the button when the red light
> turned on. This
> > >seems to be the performance limit of for the best
> human brains.
> > >
> > >So if you have to turn off the avionics before
> starting. You'll
> > >screw it up 0.3 percent of the time. This can be
> expensive, and
> unnecessary.
> >
> > Which presupposes that the reason for turning the
> avionics
> > OFF in the first place is the magic wand that
> prevents
> > expensive damage. In support of the study cited
> above, I
> > can't tell you how many times I got into an
> airplane where
> > the avionics master switch was already ON. Since
> the pre-flight
> > check list doesn't say "Avionics Master
> Switch - Check OFF"
> > then the electro-whizzies would already be ON when
> I started
> > the engine. I'll suggest it's even more
> common than the
> > 3 per thousand events cited.
> >
> > Bottom line is that it doesn't matter.
> >
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> > ----------------------------------------)
> > ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> > ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> > ( appearance of being right . . . )
> > ( )
> > ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> > ----------------------------------------
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 18
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:00:33 PM PST US
> From: Dale Rogers <dale.r@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Need for start-up
> protection?
>
>
> Eric M. Jones wrote:
> > Your automobile doesn't require some
> "special" technique to get everything going.
> This is the classic "accident waiting to happen".
> > ...
> > So if you have to turn off the avionics before
> starting. You'll screw it up 0.3
> percent of the time. This can be expensive, and
> unnecessary.
> >
>
>
> Umm, Eric,
>
> So - like - your proposed solution is ...?
>
> Dale R.
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 19
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:52:34 PM PST US
> From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Crimping of machined D-sub
> pins with 4-Way
> Indent Pin Crimper
>
>
> I think you are right about it being too far to the end. I
> spoke to a
> 'pro' who uses the same tool and he suggested
> inserting a small
> cellulose plug (i.e. stuff a wad of paper) in the hole of
> the tool. At
> least, that's what he does.
>
> Now I believe there are 2 ways of looking at it - 1) insert
> the pin and
> manually insure that the pin is more or less flush with the
> face of the
> tool or 2) stuff something in the hole so that the pin,
> when fully
> inserted, will remain flush with the tool face. I'm
> doing both - I
> stuffed a 1/16" piece of toothpick in the hole and
> I'm visually checking
> the how far the pin is inserted. Stripping enough
> insulation so that
> some conductor is exposed seems like a good practice too.
>
> None of that is acceptable in a production environment.
> But this
> homebuilder thinks he can handle it since a better tool
> costs $400.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Werner Schneider wrote:
> > <glastar@gmx.net>
> >
> > That crimp seems to be to far to the end for me, mine
> are in the
> > centre of the rear cylindrical part, so I'm afraid
> it's not properly
> > adjusted.
> >
> > AWG 24 will be to small for this pins (however you
> might be able when
> > doubling the wires to get a good grip, just the number
> of strands are
> > marginal if no strain relief on a d-sub case housing
> is done)
> >
> > br Werner
> >
> > MauleDriver wrote:
> >> I think I have several problems and oversights
> that need to be
> >> addressed.
> >>
> >> I'm using a tool that looks like this:
> >>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/rct-3.jpg
> >> As you said, it is setup for one size of wire and
> one type of
> >> pin/socket. I've been using it on 20AWG and
> probably 22 AWG which
> >> would immediately indicate some inconsistency.
> But in this case, I
> >> was using it on 24AWG wires that was part of a
> pre-made harness pig
> >> tail.
> >>
> >> In addition, I was trying to strip the wire just
> far enough to barely
> >> clear or be flush with the pin. Given that this
> crimper seems to
> >> crimp concentrically at the the very tip of the
> pin, allowing any of
> >> the insulation into the pin could further
> compromise the crimp. (I'm
> >> attaching 2 pics of the pin that failed).
> >> I first need to determine what size wire the
> crimper is setup for and
> >> limit its use to that wire. And re-confirm
> I'm using the right pins
> >> (non-high density).
> >>
> >> For this particular connection involving the 24AWG
> wires, I'm going
> >> to follow your guidance on using a 9 pin D-sum
> with solder terminals
> >> along with shrink tubing, clear adhesive and more
> shrink tubing.
> >> It's a good solution for this particular
> connection.
> >>
> >> I'll have to take a closer look at the
> adjustable Daniels crimper if
> >> I want to get serious... but it may be too
> expensive to justify.
> >>
> >> What do you think?
> >>
> >>
> >> Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> >>> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
> >>>
> >>> At 08:04 AM 12/10/2008, you wrote:
> >>>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> >>>>
> >>>> I've become a bit concerned about the
> integrity of my crimped D-sub
> >>>> pins and socket. I've been giving
> each connection a tug after
> >>>> crimping and I just had one come off.
> Upon examination, I can't
> >>>> see the difference between that connection
> and others I recently made.
> >>>>
> >>>> So the question is, what is the proper
> technique for crimping on
> >>>> Machined D-sub pins with a 4-way indent
> pin crimper? I've searched
> >>>> Bob's site and the Web in general and
> can't find any how-to
> >>>> information. None came with the tool I
> obtained from Stein.
> >>>>
> >>>> In particular, how should the tool be
> adjusted? How far should the
> >>>> wire be stripped (should the insulation be
> clear of the pin or
> >>>> should it be in the pin)?
> >>>
> >>> Insulation can touch the pin but the wires
> need to be
> >>> inserted a minimum depth as observed through
> the inspection
> >>> hole. My installations have a pretty good
> gap between
> >>> end of pin and insulation when the strands
> are fully
> >>> inserted on the pin.
> >>>
> >>>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_4-quad-crimp.jpg
>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> If your tool looks like this:
> >>>
> >>>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/rct-3.jpg
> >>>
> >>> There are no adjustments to be made. The
> tool is set up for
> >>> D-sub, 20AWG pins like . . .
> >>>
> >>>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_20AWG_Pin.jpg
>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/D-Subminature/D-Sub_20AWG_Socket.jpg
>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> and should produce a finished joint like the
> first
> >>> picture above.
> >>>
> >>> If your tool looks like this:
> >>>
> >>>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Daniels_4-Quad_1.jpg
>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> then there are adjustments to be made in
> addition to selecting
> >>> the right pin positioner. The tool should
> have come with
> >>> instructions.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Daniels_4-Quad_2.JPG
>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Daniels_4-Quad_3.JPG
>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Tools/Crimp_Tools/4-Quad/Tool-Locater_Cross_Reference.jpg
>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> Should I solder?
> >>>
> >>> No . . .
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> Avoid the crimp pins altogether and use
> solder-on D-subs?
> >>>
> >>> Millions of these pins are installed every
> day world wide and
> >>> deliver as advertised. You need to figure out
> what's going
> >>> on with your materials, tools, techniques . .
> .
> >>>
> >>>> Use the 'regular' crimp on,
> stamped pins instead?
> >>>
> >>> No, these are more problematic for the
> neophyte builder than
> >>> machined pins. I don't even keep them in
> the shop. We've
> >>> been 100% machined pins for 20+ years.
> >>>
> >>>> Crimp and solder (the hole in the barrel
> of the pin suggests that
> >>>> may be an option).
> >>>
> >>> No, that's an inspection hole. If the
> wires are sufficiently
> >>> inserted you can see the strands through the
> hole.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> Advice or links are welcome. Thanks
> >>>
> >>> What tool do you have? What pins are you
> trying to install and
> >>> what connector is the target residence for
> the pins? Are you
> >>> trying to install 22AWG (high density) pins
> with the 20AWG
> >>> standard density) tool?
> >>>
> >>> Bob . . .
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>
> >>
> >>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 20
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:01:59 PM PST US
> From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman@tcwtech.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Need for start-up
> protection?
>
>
> For those who are interested in having your EFIS , GPS, or
> Engine monitor up
> an running before engine starting and having them continue
> to run through
> engine start (without rebooting) we sell a series of
> products that allow
> these products to be supplied with continuous and regulated
> power even when
> the battery voltage drops to 5 volts or less during engine
> starting. The
> product line is called Intelligent Power Stabilizer and we
> demonstrated it
> at our booth at Oshkosh. All the details of what it does
> and how it works
> are available on our web site.
>
> www.tcwtech.com
>
> Thanks,
> Bob Newman
> rnewman@tcwtech.com
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 21
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:18:32 PM PST US
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Crimping of machined D-sub
> pins with 4-Way
> Indent Pin Crimper
> From: Ron Quillin <rjquillin@gmail.com>
>
> At 09:33 12/10/2008, you wrote:
> >I think I have several problems and oversights that
> need to be addressed.
>
> Having been to this training required for my employment, I
> find the
> gold standard to be NASA 8739.4
> CRIMPING, INTERCONNECTING CABLES, HARNESSES, AND WIRING
>
> http://workmanship.nasa.gov/ws_8739_4.jsp
> There is a radio button on page "Click Here to view
> NASA-STD-8739.4"
> that downloads a 2.1MB pdf.
>
> This document is worth a read by anyone wiring flight
> hardware. It
> deals with not only crimp connections, but also stripping,
> soldered
> splices, harnessing, lacing and most anything else you
> could want to
> know about making and inspecting reliable connections, both
> shielded
> and unshielded.
>
> Regarding crimpers, frequently on eBay you can find AFM-8
> adjustable
> (for differing gage wire) crimpers, Daniels or other, with
> positioners to get the pin where it belongs for under $100.
>
> Bob has some great stuff published to make our lives easier
> and I'm
> not quibbling with it, but this really is worth the read.
> Appendix A
> beginning on page 103 details what is and is not acceptable
> in pictures.
>
> Ron Q.
>
> Ronald Quillin
> Principal Electronic Technician
> Center for Astrophysics and Space Sciences
> University of California, San Diego
> 9500 Gilman Drive
> La Jolla CA 92093-0424
> +1.858.534.4489 V
> +1.858.534.2294 F
>
> ________________________________ Message 22
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:24:30 PM PST US
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Crimping of machined D-sub
> pins with 4-Way
> Indent Pin Crimper
> From: Ron Quillin <rjquillin@gmail.com>
>
> At 09:33 12/10/2008, you wrote:
> >I think I have several problems and oversights that
> need to be addressed.
>
> Having been to this training required for my employment, I
> find the
> gold standard to be NASA 8739.4
> CRIMPING, INTERCONNECTING CABLES, HARNESSES, AND WIRING
>
> http://workmanship.nasa.gov/ws_8739_4.jsp
> There is a radio button on page "Click Here to view
> NASA-STD-8739.4"
> that downloads a 2.1MB pdf.
>
> I also intended to include the link to this visual guide
> http://workmanship.nasa.gov/insp.jsp
> Excellent color pics and drawings.
>
> Ron Q.
>
> ________________________________ Message 23
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:48:58 PM PST US
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Break a P+B toggle circuit
> breaker
> From: rparigor@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US
>
>
> "Please post the pics in an album on your build
> website."
>
> Bob Borger
>
> Hi Bob
>
> Here is a link to album on my build website:
> http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album258&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
>
> Click on Break a breaker.
>
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
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