Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:23 AM - Re: Crimping Butt Splices (Henry Trzeciakowski)
2. 08:41 AM - Re: Re: Crimping Butt Splices (Robert McCallum)
3. 08:51 AM - Re: Re: Crimping Butt Splices (Dan Brown)
4. 12:13 PM - Re: Re: Crimping Butt Splices (Henry Trzeciakowski)
5. 12:17 PM - Re: Master Switch (Henry Trzeciakowski)
6. 12:32 PM - Re: Need for start-up protection? (tommuller2000)
7. 01:31 PM - Re: Re: Crimping Butt Splices (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 04:39 PM - Transformer (off subject) (jaybannist@cs.com)
9. 05:18 PM - Re: Transformer (off subject) (Ron Quillin)
10. 06:06 PM - Re: Transformer (off subject) (jaybannist@cs.com)
11. 06:36 PM - Re: Transformer (off subject) (Bob White)
12. 06:39 PM - Re: Transformer (off subject) (Vern Little)
13. 06:39 PM - Re: Transformer (off subject) (earl_schroeder@juno.com)
14. 06:39 PM - Re: Transformer (off subject) (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 06:49 PM - Re: Need for Start-Up Protection (Michael Forhan)
16. 06:54 PM - Re: Transformer (off subject) (jaybannist@cs.com)
17. 11:05 PM - Re: Need for Start-Up Protection (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Crimping Butt Splices |
Bob:
This may seem like a rather silly question, but what type of crimper do I
use to crimp butt splices......I've looked thru your website, looked at
terminaltown's website and even "googled" this questions and can't find
anything regarding what type of crimper is used....just instructions of how
to do it.
Thanks
Henry
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Crimping Butt Splices |
Henry;
Different Bob, but a butt splice is no different than any other type of wire
terminal. Same crimper you would use for say a fast-on or ring, just that
you have two crimps, one on each end instead of just one.
Bob McC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Henry Trzeciakowski" <hammer408@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 1:26 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Crimping Butt Splices
<hammer408@comcast.net>
>
> Bob:
>
> This may seem like a rather silly question, but what type of crimper do I
> use to crimp butt splices......I've looked thru your website, looked at
> terminaltown's website and even "googled" this questions and can't find
> anything regarding what type of crimper is used....just instructions of
how
> to do it.
>
> Thanks
>
> Henry
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Crimping Butt Splices |
Quoting "Henry Trzeciakowski" <hammer408@comcast.net>:
> This may seem like a rather silly question, but what type of crimper do I
> use to crimp butt splices......I've looked thru your website, looked at
Pretty much any type will do, if you're talking about the splices like these:
http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/page98.html
A good choice is a ratcheting tool like the ones here:
http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/EclipseCrimpTools.html
--
Dan Brown, KE6MKS, dan@familybrown.org
"Since all the world is but a story, it were well for thee to buy the
more enduring story rather than the story that is less enduring."
-- The Judgment of St. Colum Cille
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Crimping Butt Splices |
Bob:
I just tried is on my fuseble link and it worked like a charm !!
Thanks
Henry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert McCallum" <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 8:37 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Crimping Butt Splices
<robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
>
> Henry;
>
> Different Bob, but a butt splice is no different than any other type of
wire
> terminal. Same crimper you would use for say a fast-on or ring, just that
> you have two crimps, one on each end instead of just one.
>
> Bob McC
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Henry Trzeciakowski" <hammer408@comcast.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 1:26 PM
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Crimping Butt Splices
>
>
> <hammer408@comcast.net>
> >
> > Bob:
> >
> > This may seem like a rather silly question, but what type of crimper do
I
> > use to crimp butt splices......I've looked thru your website, looked at
> > terminaltown's website and even "googled" this questions and can't find
> > anything regarding what type of crimper is used....just instructions of
> how
> > to do it.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Henry
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Master Switch |
Bob:
I've just wired my DPDT switch - (2TL-1-10) switch which I'm using as my
master. It is a locking switch and wired as in you Z-diagrams. I do have a
question:
I mounted the switch keyway-up and wired the terminals accordingly:
#2 - to battery contactor
#5 - to 5 Amp CB
#1 - to ground
#4 - to #6 terminal on the regulator
Is this correct, I want my OFF position to be "down"...
Thanks
Henry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Brown" <dan@familybrown.org>
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 8:50 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Crimping Butt Splices
>
> Quoting "Henry Trzeciakowski" <hammer408@comcast.net>:
>
> > This may seem like a rather silly question, but what type of crimper do
I
> > use to crimp butt splices......I've looked thru your website, looked at
>
> Pretty much any type will do, if you're talking about the splices like
these:
>
> http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/page98.html
>
> A good choice is a ratcheting tool like the ones here:
>
> http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/EclipseCrimpTools.html
>
> --
> Dan Brown, KE6MKS, dan@familybrown.org
> "Since all the world is but a story, it were well for thee to buy the
> more enduring story rather than the story that is less enduring."
> -- The Judgment of St. Colum Cille
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Need for start-up protection? |
I have dual Dynons (D100 / D120) and the IC-200 com radio and faced the same issue.
Since I need the D120 engine information before startup and don't need the
radio, I put most of my radios on the avionics master, but the Dynons on the
primary master. Once the engine is running, I turn on the avionics master in
the same checklist item as the strobes, position lights and (if needed) the landing
lights.
Since it is also hardened, the Garmin 496 is on the primary master. That way I
can program my destination and check the weather without burning any avgas!
I agree that system design is better than airmanship. I tried to make my airplane
as idiot proof as possible for the times when I am an idiot. Adding unneccessary
cockpit load merely detracts from safety.
--------
Tom Muller
RV-9A, flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219331#219331
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Crimping Butt Splices |
At 12:26 PM 12/14/2008, you wrote:
><hammer408@comcast.net>
>
>Bob:
>
>This may seem like a rather silly question, but what type of crimper do I
>use to crimp butt splices......I've looked thru your website, looked at
>terminaltown's website and even "googled" this questions and can't find
>anything regarding what type of crimper is used....just instructions of how
>to do it.
>
>Thanks
Successful use of ANY wire termination device that
functions by "mashing" begs understanding with
respect to designed wire size along with dimensions
and shape of the finished joint.
A huge range splices are offered that speak to joining
wires with equally large array of design goals. This is
why I've focused the majority of my suggestions for crimp-on
terminations on a small constellation of products
embraced for decades by the type certificated aircraft
industry. I've written at length about the AMP PIDG
(Pre-Insulated Diamond Grip) devices which are part
of the Mil-T-7928, Type II family of products offered by dozens
of capable manufacturers.
I did comic book . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/crimptools.html
. . . that compared two tools suited for application
of devices in this family of terminals . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/s816p.jpg
which includes knife and butt splices . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/knife_splice_1.jpg
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/PIDG-Splices.jpg
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/ksplc2.jpg
Now, just because someone says, "My terminal is (better/
same) as the other guy's terminal does not make it so.
Here's a low cost terminal I evaluated some years ago
with the notion of offering them as alternatives to
the AMP PIDG terminals . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/JST_Samples_2.jpg
Electrically, these terminals went on well using
tools already on hand for installing PIDG devices . . .
but you can see the difference in how the insulation
grip was treated. Needless to say, I didn't switch my
inventory to offer these devices.
In terms of butt-splice alternatives, there's a host
of options. We looked at these critters a few weeks
ago . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/Krimpa-Seal_Butt_Splice.jpg
Crimped splices with built-in heat-shrink jackets. Pretty
cool. Worked good. Will last a long time . . . but DO NOT
apply well with PIDG rated tools.
Here's a cut and paste from a message I posted some time
back that suggests a tooling-independent technique for
joining wires:
-------- start of excerpt ------------------
We know that solder sleeves have a wide following in aviation
and other venues for splicing wires.
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/619/628.pdf
http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/links/sections/406%20Solder%20Sleeves.html
http://www.raychem.com/US/datasheets/REVISED32004/Sec_8/8-006_8-011_SolderSleeve.pdf
So, if we can get past the ol' saw about "make it mechanically secure and
then solder for electrical integrity", how about this?
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/PM_SS_Splice/PM_Solder_Sleeve_1.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/PM_SS_Splice/PM_Solder_Sleeve_2.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/PM_SS_Splice/PM_Solder_Sleeve_3.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/PM_SS_Splice/PM_Solder_Sleeve_4.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/PM_SS_Splice/PM_Solder_Sleeve_5.jpg
This technique provides equivalent mechanical and electrical integrity
with your ordinary hand tools for a lot less cost than pe-fabricated
solder sleeves and splices. The only edge I can see for solder sleeves
is the sealant included in each end of the sleeve . . .
I'll suggest that the technique described meets our needs nicely
for a fraction of the cost. Bulk of the slice is small too.
However, if you're splicing a bundle of multiple wires, it's still
a good idea to stagger the splice locations along the bundle.
----------- end of excerpt ---------
Sorry if this seems like a data dump from a big bucket but
I think this illustrates the potential for error in
communication by limiting your query to "butt splices"
when it comes to tooling.
It's important to know the style of the splice for the
purpose of offering suitable tools. ASSUMING that you're
wanting to install these guys . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/AMP_PIDG_Splices.jpg
you use the same tool as the other PIDG devices illustrated
above.
But consider adding the lap-soldered splices covered with
heat-shrink to your bag-of-tricks. They're lower cost, smaller
volume, and just as reliable as the PIDG splices and
even NASA approved. See section 19 of . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Reference_Docs/NASA/NASA-STD-8739p4c4.pdf
. . . and know that there's a lot of options available to
you for joining wires in your airplane.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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Subject: | Transformer (off subject) |
Pleas pardon the diversion, but I have a Christmas electrical question: I have
a bunch of left-over Carling toggle switches from building my panel.? My grandkid's
toy train transformer doesn't have an on-off switch so it has to be un-plugged
at the (barely accessible) wall outlet.? The transformer is 120V, 80W.?
Can I safely use a Carling 15A, 125VAC 3/4HP switch on one leg of the power line?
Jay in Dallas
________________________________________________________________________
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Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Transformer (off subject) |
I should certainly think so.
If that transformer draws anywhere near 15A that's a powerful big train.
Do make sure the terminals are not accessible.
Ron Q.
At 16:38 12/14/2008, you wrote:
>From: jaybannist@cs.com
>
>Pleas pardon the diversion, but I have a Christmas electrical
>question: I have a bunch of left-over Carling toggle switches from
>building my panel. My grandkid's toy train transformer doesn't have
>an on-off switch so it has to be un-plugged at the (barely
>accessible) wall outlet. The transformer is 120V, 80W. Can I
>safely use a Carling 15A, 125VAC 3/4HP switch on one leg of the power line?
>
>Jay in Dallas
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Transformer (off subject) |
Thanks, Ron.? I plan to make an accessory box for the switch.? - Jay
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Quillin <rjquillin@gmail.com>
Sent: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 7:17 pm
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Transformer (off subject)
I should certainly think so.
If that transformer draws anywhere near 15A that's a powerful big
train.
Do make sure the terminals are not accessible.
Ron Q.
At 16:38 12/14/2008, you wrote:
From: jaybannist@cs.com
Pleas pardon the diversion,
but I have a Christmas electrical question: I have a bunch of left-over
Carling toggle switches from building my panel.? My grandkid's toy
train transformer doesn't have an on-off switch so it has to be
un-plugged at the (barely accessible) wall outlet.? The transformer
is 120V, 80W.? Can I safely use a Carling 15A, 125VAC 3/4HP switch
on one leg of the power line?
Jay in Dallas
________________________________________________________________________
Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Transformer (off subject) |
If you are putting the switch on the 110V side of the transformer, be
sure you put the switch on the 'hot' side. (Probably a black wire
inside the wall fixture.) If the switch is going on the train side, it
won't matter too much which wire, but the transformer will still be
pulling a little current.
Bob W.
On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 20:59:04 -0500
jaybannist@cs.com wrote:
>
> Thanks, Ron.? I plan to make an accessory box for the switch.? - Jay
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ron Quillin <rjquillin@gmail.com>
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 7:17 pm
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Transformer (off subject)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I should certainly think so.
>
> If that transformer draws anywhere near 15A that's a powerful big
> train.
>
> Do make sure the terminals are not accessible.
>
>
> Ron Q.
>
> At 16:38 12/14/2008, you wrote:
>
>
> From: jaybannist@cs.com
>
>
> Pleas pardon the diversion,
> but I have a Christmas electrical question: I have a bunch of left-over
> Carling toggle switches from building my panel.? My grandkid's toy
> train transformer doesn't have an on-off switch so it has to be
> un-plugged at the (barely accessible) wall outlet.? The transformer
> is 120V, 80W.? Can I safely use a Carling 15A, 125VAC 3/4HP switch
> on one leg of the power line?
>
>
> Jay in Dallas
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com
>
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
3.8 Hours Total Time and holding
Cables for your rotary installation - http://roblinstores.com/
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Transformer (off subject) |
Yes, if you turn off the power first!
Seriously, you want to switch the "Hot" wire. This is the one that goes
to the narrow tab on your wall plug-in. If you look at the plug in,
you'll notice that the two parallel tabs are different sizes (if you
home was built in the last few decades). The narrow tab is the wire
that you want to switch.
I don't know if Bob has a reference drawing for this, though. A purist
would also put an in-line fuse.
Vern
----- Original Message -----
From: jaybannist@cs.com
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 4:38 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Transformer (off subject)
Pleas pardon the diversion, but I have a Christmas electrical
question: I have a bunch of left-over Carling toggle switches from
building my panel. My grandkid's toy train transformer doesn't have an
on-off switch so it has to be un-plugged at the (barely accessible) wall
outlet. The transformer is 120V, 80W. Can I safely use a Carling 15A,
125VAC 3/4HP switch on one leg of the power line?
Jay in Dallas
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at
http://www.cs.com
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Transformer (off subject) |
Hi Jay, another thing worth considering is to use the switch to 'break' the hot
side of the line (if it is a single pole type). This would prevent a possible
shocking experience for someone who finds a 'ground' to complete the circuit.
We love our Grand Children. Earl
Merry Christmas!
At 16:38 12/14/2008, you wrote:
> From: jaybannist@cs.com
>
> Pleas pardon the diversion, but I have a Christmas electrical question: I have
a bunch of left-over Carling toggle switches from building my panel. My grandkid's
toy train transformer doesn't have an on-off switch so it has to be un-plugged
at the (barely accessible) wall outlet. The transformer is 120V, 80W.
Can I safely use a Carling 15A, 125VAC 3/4HP switch on one leg of the power
line?
>
> Jay in Dallas
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Transformer (off subject) |
At 06:38 PM 12/14/2008, you wrote:
>Pleas pardon the diversion, but I have a Christmas electrical
>question: I have a bunch of left-over Carling toggle switches from
>building my panel. My grandkid's toy train transformer doesn't have
>an on-off switch so it has to be un-plugged at the (barely
>accessible) wall outlet. The transformer is 120V, 80W. Can I
>safely use a Carling 15A, 125VAC 3/4HP switch on one leg of the power line?
Absolutely.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Need for Start-Up Protection |
Bob-
My apologies for my previous digest post. That was only my second post, so I'm
still learning the ropes! I'm more of a listener than a talker.
With regard to your questions, I would like to provide you with specific details,
test data and analyses of the products and the airframes that I alluded to,
but I do not wish to "throw" the OEM avionics mfr. or the airframers "under the
bus" to support what is, in the end, nothing more than my personal design philosophy.
Besides, such a discussion would inevitably devolve into a narrowly-focused
critique relating to specific situations rather than a discussion of
the merits of a general design philosophy (i.e., whether or not to incorporate
an avionics master switch).
In a way, I believe you made my point for me. You stated that your livelihood
includes investigating "unanticipated characteristics" and failures to meet design
goals. It is well-known that such characteristics and design failures are
often not discovered until a product is fielded and problems arise in service.
I personally prefer to assume the system-reliability risk of of an avionics
master switch as a safeguard against such potential issues, even if the extent
of the risk of equipment damage is unquantified.
And for the record, I was not trying to "persuade" anyone, instill "fear" of "imagined"
issues, nor prove you wrong. I apologize if I did not clearly convey
my thoughts. I was merely stating that there are two schools of thought on the
subject, both having (IMHO) valid points, and sharing why I elected to utilize
an avionics master switch.
Bob, I feel I must share with you that the tenor of your response has made me more
hesitant to express my thoughts in the future. I'm telling you this not as
a complaint, but rather as honest feedback.
Best Regards,
Mike
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Transformer (off subject) |
Vern,? That's exactly what I need to know.? Now I don't need that Z-drawing !?
Thanks - Jay
-----Original Message-----
From: Vern Little <rv-9a-online@telus.net>
Sent: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 7:29 pm
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Transformer (off subject)
Yes, if you turn off the power first!
?
Seriously, you want to switch the "Hot" wire.?
This is the one that goes to the narrow tab on your wall plug-in.? If you
look at the plug in, you'll notice that the two parallel tabs are different
sizes (if you home was built in the last few decades).? The narrow tab is
the wire that you want to switch.
?
I don't know if Bob has a reference drawing for
this, though.? A purist would also put an in-line fuse.
?
Vern
----- Original Message -----
From:
jaybannist@cs.com
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 4:38
PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Transformer
(off subject)
Pleas pardon the
diversion, but I have a Christmas electrical question: I have a bunch of
left-over Carling toggle switches from building my panel.? My grandkid's
toy train transformer doesn't have an on-off switch so it has to be un-plugged
at the (barely accessible) wall outlet.? The transformer is 120V,
80W.? Can I safely use a Carling 15A, 125VAC 3/4HP switch on one leg of
the power line?
Jay in Dallas
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Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Need for Start-Up Protection |
At 08:49 PM 12/14/2008, you wrote:
>
>Bob-
>
>My apologies for my previous digest post. That was only my second
>post, so I'm still learning the ropes! I'm more of a listener than a talker.
No problem . . . just a gentle nudge . . .
>With regard to your questions, I would like to provide you with
>specific details, test data and analyses of the products and the
>airframes that I alluded to, but I do not wish to "throw" the OEM
>avionics mfr. or the airframers "under the bus" to support what is,
>in the end, nothing more than my personal design
>philosophy. Besides, such a discussion would inevitably devolve
>into a narrowly-focused critique relating to specific situations
>rather than a discussion of the merits of a general design
>philosophy (i.e., whether or not to incorporate an avionics master switch).
>
>In a way, I believe you made my point for me. You stated that your
>livelihood includes investigating "unanticipated characteristics"
>and failures to meet design goals. It is well-known that such
>characteristics and design failures are often not discovered until a
>product is fielded and problems arise in service. I personally
>prefer to assume the system-reliability risk of of an avionics
>master switch as a safeguard against such potential issues, even if
>the extent of the risk of equipment damage is unquantified.
>
>And for the record, I was not trying to "persuade" anyone, instill
>"fear" of "imagined" issues, nor prove you wrong. I apologize if I
>did not clearly convey my thoughts. I was merely stating that there
>are two schools of thought on the subject, both having (IMHO) valid
>points, and sharing why I elected to utilize an avionics master switch.
>
>Bob, I feel I must share with you that the tenor of your response
>has made me more hesitant to express my thoughts in the future. I'm
>telling you this not as a complaint, but rather as honest feedback.
Point taken and many have expressed similar feelings.
Please understand that my role here is illuminator
of physics and a random access repository for repeatable
experiments that have served aviation well for longer
than my own decades of participation in the craft.
I'm not happy to be proven wrong . . . because it brings
forward an error in my thinking (and teaching) that begs
immediate rectification. So while not delighted to discover
errors, I am grateful when it happens. So please don't read
emotions or intent into my words that is not specifically
expressed . . . I know this is difficult with only the
printed word for communication.
Alternative "schools of thought" are not useful teaching
tools unless they are part of a revelation of simple-ideas,
data gathered, and demonstrated repeatable experiments.
For example, it was suggested recently that Transorbs be
used downstream of a fuse or breaker to protect some
appliance from an over voltage condition. This idea
has surfaced here on the list in times past and was shown
to be in error after the capabilities of Transorbs
(designed to stand off low energy spikes) was shown
insufficient to stand off a high energy ov event with
an additional expectation of opening the up-stream
circuit breaker.
I asked the individual to recommend a part number of
Transorb for this purpose. I intended to show
an energy analysis for the n'th time that would
tell us how this part could not be expected to
block stresses it was being asked to protect
against . . . stresses that either don't exist
or are easily managed by tried-and-true recipes
for success.
My mission here is to assist 1800 readers (mostly
neophyte builders) in making decisions based
on the collective experiences of myself and many
others who have made a living in this business
for decades. Any 'push back' you might perceived
about your feelings on the topic was not an attempt
to persuade you of anything. It was intended to
remind everyone that there are reasons to do things
based on logic, science and repeatable experiments
. . . and there are reasons to do things because
they make us feel better. I have no personal interest
in anyone's informed decision for any feature
they choose to incorporate in their project. However,
I will do my best to assist them in BEING INFORMED.
My customers don't pay my exorbitant fees to
feel better. They expect (and I offer) the best I
know how to do based on data and experiences I
have at my disposal. I'll be pleased to update
that advice when offered new data. Yeah, there
ARE fielded products that missed established
design goals. But is it our duty as consumers to
discover those errors and kick them back up
the supply chain . . . or should we modify our
behavior (and our designs) to accommodate the
POSSIBILITIES so that poor designs get pampered/
tolerated and perhaps never discovered?
I'm sorry if you don't share my faith in the
skill and integrity of myself and fellow engineers
to do our homework. But folks are paying
me/us good fees because we do our homework and
pretty much expect our associates in the field
to do their homework too. The consequences for
missing the mark should be levied on US and
not upon the consumers of our work-product.
Now, we're probably making this more complicated
than it needs to be. Let's do the reversed
hypothetical: How would you modify a starter/
alternator/battery combination such that it
could be predicted to produce stresses that
exceed industry design goals for the accessories
powered by the system? If you're feeling
good for accommodating potential "accidents of
design" that produce a non-compliant condition
. . . how much of a problem is it to purposefully
design a non-compliant system?
What would you propose we hammer, bend, break
or otherwise modify some component to produce
a system that's hazardous to its appliances?
I think this is exercise useful to demonstrate
that no PURPOSEFUL way exists that demonstrates
or mimics anyone's ACCIDENT. In other words, it's
so easy to do this one right that worrying about
doing it wrong is unworthy of concern.
As I mentioned earlier, I've never asked any
customer of mine to turn off my gizmo to protect
it from anything the airplane can be expected
to throw at it. I've never had a customer bring
me a box of smoked junk because I missed the
design goal. It's not a big deal.
Bob . . .
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